The power supply of any premises must ensure the ability to quickly connect electrical installations (including household appliances). For this purpose, sockets placed on the walls are used. Since the connection of sockets to the power cable must be reliable and safe, the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) require the presence of a housing for each socket that provides protection against damage electric shock. Sockets designed for wall-mounted(including street) have their own building that meets safety measures. For devices built into the wall, installation of socket boxes is provided.
Receptacle boxes serve multiple functions
- Structural: the box must be firmly fixed in the wall, and securely hold the socket itself.
- Electrical safety. Boxes for brick, concrete and plasterboard walls are made of dielectric materials and prevent electrical potential from reaching the load-bearing structures from the contacts.
- In addition, the outlet itself is protected. Moisture, dust, and foreign objects do not penetrate inside the case.
- Fire safety. If a fire occurs inside the socket, the flame does not penetrate beyond the socket box.
- There is also an aesthetic component. When installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, seat looks neat. A flat surface is obtained around the outlet.
Requirements for socket boxes
A unified set of rules describing the installation of boxes for hidden installation electrical outlets, does not exist. Electrical installation rules require compliance general requirements fire and electrical safety. In this sense, installing a box under an outlet is no different from installing distribution box. Exist building codes and rules (SNiP) that determine the geometry of the placement of sockets in the room. Well, common sense has not been canceled.
We will try to combine all the conditions under which the installation of socket boxes will not cause problems during the operation of electrical equipment.
Optional, but useful requirements- the ability to connect several sockets to each other using standard clamps. This allows you to assemble a structure of any length.
We proceed to the direct installation of socket boxes
Before starting work, it is advisable to have a complete set Supplies. Power cable, required amount socket boxes (with a small reserve “for scrap”), building mixtures, PVA glue. The power tool you plan to use to cut the holes.
Marking
Regardless of whether the power cable is laid in advance, or you will be trenching the walls for it at the same time as drilling niches for sockets, the installation of socket boxes begins with careful marking.
It is impossible to guess where electrical appliances will be placed. Perhaps tomorrow you will want to rearrange your apartment. Therefore, sockets are installed according to the following principle:
- For universal use- at a height of 30 cm from the finished floor (meaning the height from the laid finishing coating).
- For large household appliances ( washing machine, refrigerator) at a height of 1 meter.
- If the socket blocks are mounted above countertops or bedside tables - no less than 10 cm from the surface.
- A special case is the installation of sockets for a TV hung on the wall. This is an individual project.
- But the distance between the centers of the socket boxes is a constant (applies to group installation, in a row). This value for installing standard sockets is 71 mm.
The horizontal position must also be taken into account. From corners, ceiling, floor, door frames- a distance of at least 15 cm. From heating radiators no closer than 50 cm. Of course, you cannot place sockets above heating devices (with the exception of the “warm floor” system) and above kitchen stoves. Electrical installation rules and SNiP prohibit the installation of sockets and the laying of wires on walls directly facing the street.
Making holes
There are three main ways. There are no advantages or disadvantages between them. It all depends on the tools and attachments you have. There is no fundamental difference between installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, so the technology is similar.
- Crown for stone (concrete, brick). Classic and most quick option drilling the wall for a round box.
The diameter of such a nozzle is usually 70 or 75 mm. Considering the external dimensions of the socket boxes (61–65 mm), it is better to use a larger crown. Firstly, it’s easier to fill an extra gap with a solution than to squeeze a box into a tight hole. Secondly, you have a small margin in case of a miscalculation in the markings. Then, adhering strictly to the central markings, we drill holes to a depth exceeding the length of the socket box by 10–15 mm. You won’t be able to make ready-made holes; most likely the installation location will look like this: 
It's okay, the core can be easily knocked out with a chisel or bolt. 
Advice! What to do if reinforcement gets in the way of the crown? (Applies to concrete walls only).
Identifying the metal under the crown is not difficult. You definitely can’t go wrong: the deepening stops and a characteristic knocking and vibration appears.
Most good advice- change the installation location of the socket. The reinforcement has a pitch of 15–30 mm; if the placement is not so important, move the hole by 3–5 cm. Before doing this, try to determine which reinforcement you hit: vertical or horizontal. This will help avoid further mistakes.
If it is impossible to move the socket block, you will have to remove a piece of reinforcement. To do this, knock out a “glass” of concrete to see the metal. Use a bolt to break the area around the reinforcement a couple of centimeters. A wire with a diameter of 5–6 mm can be cut with a chisel.
Thicker reinforcement will have to be drilled out.
The best option is to cut out this area with a grinder. We will get acquainted with this method further.
- Drilling holes using a drill. Not the easiest way, but if you don’t have a crown, you can make one or two seats. Fundamental difference- the contour is not drilled along the center marking point. It is necessary to draw a circle with a diameter of 75 mm around it. Then you need to drill holes along the contour as often as possible.
And then, as in the first option, use a bolt or chisel. Tip: Don't be afraid to damage the integrity of the wall around the holes. Of course, you want everything to look beautiful even at the preparatory stage: the holes are like in the picture, a perfectly even row. You will simply waste extra time; all uneven areas will be plastered over and covered with the finishing surface.
By the way, if you are installing socket boxes in a brick wall, there will be no drilling challenging task. The material is soft, easy to drill even without a hammer drill: a regular drill with a pobedit drill.
If you are making a niche in red brick, try to get between the cement layers. There is less damage (concrete breaks out in pieces), and it is easier to select a hole.
- Installation of socket boxes using a grinder. This method is not used due to the lack of a drill or crown for concrete. If you have an angle grinder, then you also have a hammer drill. It's just another technology, no better or worse than the others.
The only condition under which this method is indispensable is working with reinforced concrete wall special strength. You will simply dull an expensive bit, and the discs on an angle grinder cost pennies.
Together with grooves for power cable, we simply cut out rectangular or square holes with a margin around the socket boxes.
It definitely looks rough. On more or less treated walls, the hand does not rise to such blasphemy. And if finishing is still a long way off, this is the fastest and effective method. Also suitable for brick walls.
- The most unesthetic method is a hammer drill in jackhammer mode. It should be resorted to only if other methods are impossible. However, the technology is there and we cannot ignore it.
The end result is ready-made holes for socket boxes with connected grooves. Clean the niches with a brush or construction vacuum cleaner, and be sure to prime it.
Installation of boxes
In accordance with the markings, we try on the assembled blocks. Installation of socket boxes is carried out regardless of the quality of the holes. If the box rests on an incorrectly drilled niche, it needs to be expanded. Marking is our everything! Don’t be lazy at this stage, even if you don’t want to pick up a chisel again and make a mess.
Experienced installers attach the socket boxes to some kind of guide, fix the ideal location, and then cover the boxes with alabaster.
If you just sit the socket boxes in liquid solution, they may move before they dry completely. You'll have to redo everything again.
The wires must be left with a margin of 10–15 cm. When installing sockets, you will remove the excess, leaving a small installation loop.
The eternal question: install socket boxes before or after plastering
If the surface is covered with plasterboard, there is no such problem. What to do when installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall?
In fact, from a technical point of view there is no difference. You can accurately calculate the planting height: the main thing is that the socket box does not stick out, even by 1 mm. If the edge is recessed by 3–5 mm, this is not a problem. The mounting pad of the socket will rest against the wall, and use longer screws for fastening.
The problem is rather psychological - it’s a shame to drill into a plastered surface.
When choosing a sequence (before or after plastering), one nuance should be taken into account: if the edge of the installed socket boxes protrudes above the plane of the wall, how will you apply the plaster evenly?
That's why, best option: drill niches, then plaster the walls (there will be holes for sockets with uneven edges), and then carefully clean the edges of the holes. Before installing the socket boxes, you will have to restore the markings.
Simple advice for beginning craftsmen: To prevent alabaster or plaster from hardening too quickly, add PVA glue to the water. After mixing, the solution takes 2–3 times longer to crystallize.
True, you will have to wait several hours for final drying. But the mixture will be many times stronger.
Video on the topic
A socket box is a metal, or more often a plastic, cup into which a socket or switch is installed during electrical installation work. Installation of this product is not complicated, but for each wall material (brick, concrete, plaster or wood) installation will have its own nuances. Next, we will tell you how to install a socket box in concrete, brick, wood and plasterboard wall by providing visual photos examples, video instructions and short description to each technology.
What to pay attention to before installation
Before you decide to install the product in the wall, you need to choose the right type of socket box. Today, the following types of so-called glasses for sockets and switches are available for sale:
By selecting suitable option products, you can proceed to the preparatory work, which we will talk about now!
Preparing for the cut-in
So, in order to install a socket box with your own hands, you must first prepare the following set of materials and tools:
- Hammer or electric drill;
- A crown for plaster, brick or concrete (depending on which wall will be tapped) or a Pobedit drill bit;
- Building level;
- Marker;
- Spatula and gypsum putty (if drywall or wood, then not needed);
- Chisel and hammer.
Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to installing the socket box into the wall. Now we will briefly look at how to insert and secure a glass under the socket in each of existing options walls
Installation technologies
In concrete and brick
If you need to install a socket box in a concrete or brick wall, you need to proceed as follows:
- Make markings on the surface using building level and a marker in accordance with the wiring diagram in the house. can be chosen at your own discretion; SNiP and GOST standards do not stipulate this point. All you need to do is put a cross in suitable place(center of the future hole), lean the socket box in the center and circle it with a marker.
- Using a hammer drill and a suitable crown, drill the groove 4-5 mm deeper than the height of the glass you are going to install. If you don’t have a special cutter at hand, simply drill a group of holes in a circle using a drill with a Pobedit drill bit and knock out the core with a chisel and hammer. Another way is to carefully do square hole grinder with a diamond blade.
- When you manage to make a round groove, clean it from the inside, then try on the socket box so that it fits well into the seat and there are no installation difficulties in the future. Immediately cut a hole in it for the wire entry and insert the wires inside.
- Dilute the solution to smear the socket box into a concrete or brick wall. Good solution may come from gypsum putty, alabaster and water.
- Wet the hole and use a spatula to apply the solution inside, as shown in the photo. After this, carefully fix the glass flush with the wall, making sure that the screws on the sides are positioned strictly parallel to the floor (otherwise the socket will not be able to be installed level).
- Seal the edges and remove excess solution to leave the glass clean and ready for further use. electrical installation work, after the putty has set.
Like this in a simple way You can independently install a socket box in a wall made of brick, concrete, foam block or even aerated concrete. Be sure to watch the video instructions provided below to clearly see the essence of the installation.
Video tutorial on attaching a block of glasses in a monolith
In drywall
Attach the socket box to plasterboard partition much easier. Here you no longer need to dilute the solution and knock out the core of the groove with a chisel. As we said earlier, there is a special glass with presser feet that can easily fix the socket box in the drywall. 
In order to install the glass yourself plaster wall, you need to do the following:
- Apply markings on the surface by analogy with the previous technology. We looked at the markings of a plasterboard wall in detail when we talked about...
- Cut a hole in the bottom for the wires and insert the product inside the groove.
- Tighten the screws on the sides until the box is tightly secured inside.
How to install a socket box in drywall
That's all you need to do to install a socket box in a plasterboard wall with your own hands. As you can see, everything is very simple and even a novice electrician can install the product. We draw your attention to the fact that if the gypsum partition is additionally tiled, you need to act a little differently. The video below shows the technology for attaching a glass under ceramic tiles.
How to install on tiles
The second way to make a block of sockets in tiles
In the tree
Well, the last mounting option is in a wooden wall. If you decide to live in a wooden house, which is very strange and unsafe, you will need to make grooves in the wood for installing metal socket boxes. 
Without reliable wiring, life in an apartment or house immediately loses its comfort. To make the conditions as comfortable as possible, it is worth taking care of everything related to electrics. Socket boxes are no exception. Without them, it is simply impossible to install a high-quality outlet that will withstand maximum loads.
What is a socket box and what are its types?
Socket boxes are special boxes that are made of various materials (usually plastic or metal). The main task of this tool is to seal holes in the wall and install a socket in it.
The best material for manufacturing is plastic. The socket rests on it confidently and reliably. Metal socket boxes (also called sleeves) are usually used only in wooden houses, as this is required by safety regulations. The decrease in demand for sleeves is explained by the fact that such devices have a weaker connection with sockets (compared to plastic analogues). In addition, their sharp edges can damage important wires.
Types of socket boxes
Any socket box is not suitable for installation. They must be selected depending on the wall in which they will be installed. There are 2 data groups in total:
- On concrete walls. From the name it becomes obvious that the installation of such socket boxes is carried out in a concrete wall. But besides this, they are suitable for foam and aerated concrete, brick and expanded clay coatings.
- For plasterboard surfaces, as well as for structures made of plywood and chipboard, tools from a different group are used.
Preparatory work
After purchasing a socket box, you should carry out special preparatory work. This won't take much time. The main thing is to conduct a quality assessment of the wall.
Attention ! In some cases, instead of one electrical outlet, a whole block of combined several devices is used. When installing them, do not forget about the distance between the centers of each socket box.
Installation in concrete
When the socket box has been purchased, the preparatory work has been completed, you can proceed to installation. However, install the socket boxes in concrete wall It is unlikely that anyone will succeed with bare hands. Therefore, you will definitely need the following tools:
- Drill with drill bit for concrete;
- Hammer;
- Special crowns for drilling concrete. Their diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the mounted device;
- Regular pencil and ruler;
- Chisel with hammer;
- Grinder with a special blade for concrete;
- Putty knife;
- Gypsum. Suitable for both construction and medical;
- Paper knife
Tools such as a grinder or a hammer drill are a must. If you don’t have your own tools, you can rent them from specialized construction stores.
When the entire arsenal is collected, you can move on to the next stage.
Marking and making holes for the socket box
Before installation, be sure to accurately mark the location where the socket box will be installed. The height of future sockets and switches is selected individually, but if desired, you can use the following professional standards:
- IN living rooms sockets are placed at a height of 30 cm from the covered floor;
- In the kitchen, for convenience, the height from the floor reaches 120 cm;
- Switch height - 90 cm.
After defining optimal height To to the right place a socket box is attached. The outline is outlined with a pencil.
Now before installation all that remains is to drill the required hole. To do this, a special round crown is placed on the hammer drill. It resembles a small piece of pipe with sharp teeth that will drill through the wall. You should drill until the crown is completely embedded in the wall. After this, the central part, using a chisel, is refined in depth.
Advice ! To make the crown cut easier required holes, in the center of the markings, you can make holes using a drill.
If you don't have a crown, you can use other methods. There are only 2 of them and each is radically different. In the first case, a hammer drill or drill with a special drill (Pobedit) is used. Along the contour of the marked circle, special holes are drilled as deep as possible. They should be close to each other. After this, the central part is knocked out with a chisel. The advantage of this method is speed. Using a crown will quickly heat up the power tool, so it needs to rest periodically. Therefore, it can take all day to make 12-15 indentations. IN in this case there is no such shortage.
You can also prepare a place for a socket box using a grinder. To do this, use a pencil and ruler again. The circled outline should be converted into a square by drawing one on each side. straight line. After this, you should walk along straight lines with a grinder. Also, as in previous versions, the middle is knocked out with a chisel.
Depth adjustment
After the hole is made, you should check whether the socket box fits completely into it. IN ideal The device should be clearly flush with the wall. In this case, the future socket or switch will be close to the wall.
Advice ! The socket box has an unnecessary edge. When cut, the device will fit perfectly into the wall.
After this, a groove is made in the wall, which will allow the wire to be connected. It, in turn, is inserted into the socket box from the back. After threading the wire, the tool is inserted into the hole made.
The final stage
Almost all the work has been done, all that remains is to fix the socket boxes using a special solution. It needs to be prepared in small quantities and only before embedding, since it begins to harden within a few minutes. To prepare it, you must gradually add water to the plaster. The mixture is constantly stirred. The result should be a mass whose consistency resembles thick sour cream.
Important ! Before performing work, the hole should be washed with water, thus removing excess dust.
When all the moisture has been absorbed, a solution is laid out into the hole with a spatula, into which the socket box with the wire is inserted. It should be installed carefully so that it does not protrude, otherwise obvious defects will be noticeable in the future. After this, all cracks are sealed with the remaining solution.
Installation in a brick wall
Installing socket boxes in a brick wall is no different from the option described above. That is, you will need all the same tools. The method of making holes is also suitable for any of those already indicated. But the installation of socket boxes in drywall is somewhat different. This will be discussed further
Socket box in a plasterboard wall
Before installing the device, you should carefully prepare the surface. To prevent it from crumbling or breaking during the drilling process, you should treat the wall with a large amount of primer, which will strengthen its structure.
When the drywall is dry, you can proceed to drilling holes. You can use both special crowns and a simple drill using a mounting knife. It is important that the hole is the same diagonal as the installation box. To achieve this, it is recommended that you first mark it in the same way as in the case of a concrete wall.
When the holes are ready, a box is inserted into them, from which all jumpers that do not allow the cable to be inserted must first be removed. To ensure strength, the socket box should be tightened tightly with screws. Also, the seat (before fixing) can be additionally puttied. This will also strengthen the structure.
Installing an outlet
Installation of the socket in the socket box is the final stage. This procedure only takes a few minutes, but you should adhere to the following rules:
- You should remove the top cover from the very beginning. To do this, a bolt is unscrewed in the center.
- Then you should loosen the contacts into which the wires are inserted. To avoid overheating in the future, the contacts should be tightened as tightly as possible.
When installing lighting and socket circuits in buildings for various purposes, one of the main elements are socket boxes. They are designed for reliable fixation of sockets or switches, in wooden walls prevent fire during short circuit. Products come various types and materials for hidden and external wiring. Depending on installation conditions and functional purpose network, selectable certain type and the appropriate installation methodology is applied. In this article we will tell you how to install a socket box in a wall made of different material, let's study the installation features.
All socket boxes for installation in walls can be divided according to the following criteria:
- According to the material of manufacture;
- For open or hidden wiring;
- By design, depending on the building material of the walls;
- By size.
How individual look You can select socket boxes for installation in the structure of baseboards, when the wiring is laid in the cable ducts of plastic or aluminum baseboards.
Materials for making socket boxes
The main materials for making socket boxes are metal and non-flammable plastic.
Metal socket boxes are stamped with a press from galvanized iron sheets.
In most cases, they are used for installing hidden electrical wiring in wooden walls, this reduces the likelihood of a fire due to a short circuit.
Modern plastic socket boxes are various forms and sizes, depending on the functional purpose, on which walls they are installed. 
Plastic socket boxes for baseboard wiring have a square body and a relief that matches the shape of the baseboard on the back wall. Standard shapes and sizes of socket boxes
Old style metal socket boxes When manufacturing socket boxes, manufacturers adhere to the standards of the main models of sockets so that their fastenings and dimensions match.
The metal socket boxes are of the old type and therefore the choice of their sizes is not wide. There are models with internal diameter 65 mm, glass depth in all cases 45 mm.
The technological holes can be closed, but stamped with lines; if necessary, they can be easily opened by squeezing out the closing part with pliers from the desired side. Read also the article: → "".
Plastic socket boxes for installation in concrete and brick walls have several types of designs:
- Standard;
- With increased glass depth;
- Oval shaped for installing several sockets from 2-5 pcs;
- Prefabricated blocks on one platform up to 5 pcs.
- Socket boxes for drywall
Plastic socket box with clamping strips for installation in hollow walls, plasterboard, chipboard and other materials - Socket boxes for baseboards
Installation of metal socket boxes in wooden walls
Preliminary markings are made of the installation locations of sub-sockets and wire routes, which are laid in rigid or corrugated metal pipes. The holes for the socket cups are drilled with special wood bits of the appropriate diameter. The wires are laid in cut grooves and entered into the sub-socket through technological holes done from several sides. The grooves are masked with clapboard or other decorative materials. This method significantly complicates finishing.
It is easier and safer to lay external wiring on wooden walls using corrugated pipes and plastic cable ducts made of non-flammable material. Some cable ducts are colored with the structure of wood of various species, which allows you to successfully select harmony with common interior. Sometimes wires are laid over ceramic insulators evenly spaced along the line.
Wooden socket boxes They are rarely used for external wiring, mostly for decorative purposes. Surface-mounted sockets and switches do not need to be buried; they can be screwed directly to the walls, through a metal or asbestos gasket. Read also the article: → "".
Installation of socket boxes in concrete and brick walls
The difficulty in installing socket boxes in these walls lies in drilling holes in a solid surface.
For this purpose, special crowns with diamond, tungsten or pobedit teeth are used. After drilling, a number of standard operations are carried out:
- Wires are laid along the walls and secured to the concrete with plastic clips and nails. increased rigidity. When struck sharply with a hammer, they penetrate perfectly into concrete and brick surfaces.
- The ends of the wires are inserted 15-20 cm into holes drilled in the concrete, after which the walls are plastered.
- After the plaster has dried, the wires are threaded into the socket box, which is installed in a hole in the wall using gypsum mortar.
- When the plaster dries, they will paint the walls or make another decorative finishing, it will be possible to cut wires, connect and attach a socket or switch.
Tip #1. Please note that the socket box is installed after plastering the walls, otherwise it will be difficult to calculate the installation depth of the glass. If you recess it completely level with the wall surface, it will be 1-2 cm deeper after plastering. Set above level concrete surface This is not possible due to the unknown exact thickness of the plaster in this place. To avoid level changes and to ensure that the socket is pressed tightly against the wall surface, the socket box must be installed on a plastered wall.
Socket boxes with increased glass depth are used when several more sockets, switches or other wiring elements are connected to the network from one socket. In this case it starts a large number of wires, to accommodate them the socket box is made deeper.
Installation of socket boxes in plasterboard, plywood, chipboard walls with hollow space
For this case, the socket boxes have a special design with clamping strips. The installation sequence includes the following operations:
- In most cases, the wiring is installed behind a plasterboard wall;
- When installing the structure, marks are made on the front side of the wall where the socket boxes will be placed;
- Then in drywall special device holes are drilled, wires are pulled out 15 -20 cm;
- Wires are threaded into the technological holes, the socket box is inserted into the hole;
- By rotating the screwdriver of the bolts on the body of the socket box, the strips press it with reverse side to the wall surface;
An example of how a socket box is pressed against drywall - After finishing the front surface of the wall, you can install and connect sockets.
Approximate prices for fastening elements and socket boxes for hollow walls
| Elements | Dimensions in mm | COST in RUB. |
| Screw for fixing sockets | 3.1:10 mm | 6 |
| Screw for fixing sockets | 3.1:25 mm | 8 |
| Single box box | Ø 68mm, glass height 50mm | 75 |
| Regular box | Ø 68mm, cup depth 65mm | 90 |
| Box with two glasses | Ø 2x68mm, glass depth 50mm | 180 |
| Box for installing sconces | Ø 35mm, cup depth 40mm | 130 |
Installation of socket boxes for wiring laid in baseboards
Plastic skirting boards with cable ducts provide for the installation of specially shaped socket boxes in their design. These socket boxes have the shape of a box with holes for mounting the socket:
- At the installation site, a hole is made in the plinth for the wires to exit, or on the laying line, gaps are provided between the sections of the plinth.
- The relief of the back wall of the socket box perfectly matches the external relief of the baseboard, so they fit tightly together, the body of the socket box is screwed to the wall or floor;
- The wires are pulled out and connected to the socket terminals;
- The socket is inserted into the socket box and secured with screws.
Tip #2. In the absence of a socket box of the appropriate profile, the socket can be installed closely above the baseboard, with a design for hidden or external wiring. Surface-mounted sockets are easier to install; the wire from the plinth passes through a small recess in the wall into the socket body and looks very aesthetically pleasing.
Tools and attachments used for drilling holes for socket boxes in walls made of various materials
To drill holes, use a conventional hammer drill with replaceable attachments:
- For drilling concrete or brick walls, crowns of various diameters with diamond, pobedit or tungsten teeth are used.
In the center of the cylinder there is a guide drill, which holds the bit within the specified diameter when drilling. 
After the crown has passed to a given depth, the brick or concrete components inside the diameter are knocked out with a regular chisel and hammer Sizes and costs of crowns from different manufacturers
| Brand | Manufacturer | Length in mm | Cutting elements | Ømm | |
| Messer | South Korea | 70 | 3 pcs | 68 | 3 090 |
| Projahn 81565 | Germany | 50 | 6pcs | 65 | 3 310 |
| Versio Projahn 852065 | 100 | 16pcs | 68 | 7 400 | |
| Bosch 2.608.550.0 | 60 | 6pcs | 5 190 | ||
| Practice 035-172 | Russia | 68 | 8pcs | 830 | |
| Master Stayer 29190-68 | Germany | 133 | 740 | ||
| Santool SDS Max | China | 140 | 520 |
- For drilling wooden surfaces The principle is similar, but the teeth have a shape and material suitable for drilling wood.
The advantage of this nozzle design is that it does not require knocking out internal elements, they are completely cleaned. Thickness and other parameters of some types of drywall:
| GKL | |||
| Material grade | Length in mm | Width in mm | Thickness in mm |
GVL | 1500 2000 2500 2700 3000 | 500 1000 1200 | 10 12.5 15 18 20 |
Moisture resistant | 2000 — 4500 | 1200 — 1300 | 6 — 13 |
The plates with teeth must be made of high-quality hardened steel, otherwise they will be enough for 2-3 holes. The depth of the crowns varies and is selected according to the thickness of the material to be drilled.
- Drywall can be easily drilled with any attachments for wood or concrete.
Grooves in concrete, brick and wooden walls are sawn through with a grinder special disks.
There are industrial wall chasers, but they are very expensive and only pay for themselves when working in large volumes. construction companies.
Wood cutting disc
Errors when installing socket boxes
- Drywall, plywood chipboard are drilled in drilling mode, hammer drills often forget to switch from impact mode, as a result of which the surface immediately breaks, especially gypsum board.
- During installation open wiring on wooden walls, they often forget to install asbestos plates under cable ducts and sockets. This is required by the governing documents of the PUE and is necessary for reasons of one’s own safety. Such measures significantly reduce the likelihood of a fire. Read also the article: → "".
- During installation, the top edge of the socket box should be installed flush with front side walls and decorative coating. Otherwise, the socket may not be attracted to the wall or the mounting bolts will not reach the socket;
- The level of plaster within the socket box must be perfectly level, then the socket will fit tightly to the wall; if the level of plaster changes, gaps may form between the wall and the body of the sockets;
- The wires are inserted into the socket box before it is secured with a plaster solution, the length of the ends is not shorter than 15-20 cm, so that it is enough to remove the insulation and fasten the contacts. With short wires, it will be inconvenient to connect sockets and switches and install them in a socket box.
FAQ
Question No. 1. The wall is made of chipboard, there are no metal socket boxes with clamping strips, can you put plastic glasses on wood?
Most modern building materials are made non-flammable, including plastic socket boxes and chipboard.
Question No. 2. I'm going to plaster a concrete wall, do I need to make grooves for wiring?
It is enough to secure the wire compactly with clips and plaster it, but at the same time make recesses for inserting the wires into the technological holes of the socket cup; they cannot be inserted from above.
Question No. 3. Possible in wooden log house lay the wire between the logs and cover it up?
Only in metal pipes or non-flammable cable ducts.
Question No. 4. Can deep socket boxes be used as distribution boxes?
Yes, it exists special technique installation in this way, this issue requires separate consideration.
Installing sockets in a concrete wall is quite a complicated matter, like everything related to electricity, because it requires special care. If you decide to do this work, be sure to strictly follow technological process. Installation of new sockets is an important issue, since after each renovation or simply moving furniture, you change your home. For ease of use of certain devices, they are moved to more “accessible” places. If you want to do everything yourself, you need to know theoretical minimum, which I will talk about in this article.
Getting started preparatory stage, you must already have purchased an electrical appliance, and also purchased necessary materials, tools and the work area was brought into proper shape.
Typically, the location of sockets is not regulated in height, so electrical appliances can be installed wherever you want, observing only one condition: heating, gas and plumbing systems should be 1 meter away from your chosen installation point. The exception is the toilet and bathroom; Under no circumstances should electrical outlets be installed in them.
Required tools and materials
To work you will definitely need:
- Electrical socket (better take a product with a ceramic base);
- An appropriately sized installation box;
- Cable and conductor products;
- Alabaster.
For equipment, select:
- perforator;
- chisel;
- putty knife;
- indicator screwdriver.
Types of sockets
There are several main types of sockets. By type of installation there are: built-in for open and built-in for internal wiring. Built-in ones are used when wires run through the wall. This usually happens in apartments, as this is a guarantee of safety. Overheads are more suitable for wooden houses, where the wiring goes over the wall.
Sockets with protective curtains are good because the openings are protected. The curtains move back only when the fork is inserted. They can open upward, with a certain pressure, in a circular motion, etc.
Sockets with ejectors are suitable for using multiple appliances when you need to frequently pull out the plug and replace it with another one.
A socket with a timer is more suitable for children and the elderly. You can program it to turn on a particular device. This, for example, can be done with a teapot.
Sockets with indicator. Using the indicator, you can determine whether there is current in the network.
Installation instructions
Marking
First of all, we start marking - using a tape measure and a pencil, we mark the center of the future outlet on the wall. When installing the block, apply all centers.
Holes in a concrete wall
For further installation of socket boxes, make a hole in the concrete wall. To make the job easier, use a hammer drill and prepare a special crown. You use it to make holes with a depth of 50 to 60mm. Then you insert the concrete bit into the hammer drill and use it to mark the future dimensions of the hole.
Make 12 holes along the resulting length. Drill them to the installation depth of the selected socket boxes (usually no more than 50 mm). Using a spatula attachment, remove any remaining concrete.
Electrical wiring installation
After you have made all the holes and punched the grooves to them, you can begin installing the electrical wiring. You must route the power wires to the sockets. The best option: each has its own power cable.
Installation of socket boxes
At this stage, carefully follow the things I described, because durability, reliability, convenience and, of course, your safety depend on it.
Considering the number of socket boxes you want to install, assemble the appropriate block. Let's take two things as an example.
- Connect two sockets together.
- Make the plugs needed to enter the cable.
- Remove excess connecting elements that interfere with installation.
- Try on the socket box, placing it in the already formed hole. Once you are sure that it is not sticking out, protruding or tilted, you can proceed to the next step.
- Clean the hole from dust.
- Prime with a special primer that guarantees durability.
- Dilute the putty or plaster mixture on a gypsum base. Then apply the mixture inside the holes. In such cases, the use of alabaster is also allowed.
Important! You need to work quickly because the plaster hardens in a very short period of time.
- “Press” the socket boxes with the wires in them into the solution.
Wall decoration
Next, you need to prime and then cover significant chips, dips and depressions with plaster. The socket boxes themselves need to be coated especially carefully. After the wall has dried, putty and treat sandpaper areas so that everything looks smooth and beautiful.
After this you can safely go to finishing(paint, wallpaper, etc.).