Installation of floors in a bathhouse is one of the most critical stages of construction. In most cases, the floors are wood or concrete-based. And a high-quality solution to the problem related to how to lay floors in a bathhouse will determine the quality of bathing procedures and the durability of both the floor itself and the bathhouse as a whole.
Let's find out how the floors in the bathhouse can be arranged with our own hands.
Wooden floor
Floor with wood covering can be non-leaking and leaking. For each of them, the installation instructions are different.
Installation of non-leaking floors
The simplest floor design and procedure is as follows:
- Floor beams are usually installed during the laying of a log house, cutting them into the first row of beams or logs. They usually rest on a foundation if it is a strip foundation or masonry between pillars in the case of a columnar foundation.
- If this was not done, then the beams can be embedded after the construction of the walls and roof. Or make the floor in the bathhouse independent of the foundation and walls. This will not affect how to lay the floor in the bathhouse.
In this case, it is necessary to lay separate columns under the floor beams. They are made in the same way as foundation columns.
Attention: Top level the columns should not be higher than the level of the foundation.
Yes, and lower is undesirable, this will solve many problems in the future.
- Boards are nailed solidly to the floor beams from below, or 50x50 mm bars are nailed into the lower part of the sides of the beams. The subfloor is laid on these bars.
- After this, a layer of vapor barrier is spread over the rough boards.
- One or two are placed on the vapor barrier. This can be mineral wool or insulation based on basalt wool.
- Then another layer of vapor barrier is laid.
- A tongue-and-groove floorboard is laid on top of the beams.
If such floors are made for a steam room or washing room, then the floor surface should have a slight slope, about 2 cm per meter of distance along the floor.
This tilt should be made towards a wall or towards a special water receiver built into the floor. It is best to use wood for a steam room hardwood, they are softer and high temperature do not emit harmful resins.
Speaking about how to lay the floor in a bathhouse (), there is no need to make such a slope, and the material for these rooms can be any: both coniferous and deciduous.
Installation of leaking floors
Such floors are installed only in the steam room and washing room, that is, where water drainage is necessary. Before laying the floor in a bathhouse of this type, it is necessary to prepare the soil for the future flooring.
To fix a leaking floor, do the following:
- The ground inside the room is leveled, and a layer of sand is poured onto it and compacted so that as a result this layer becomes approximately 10 cm.
- Then a layer of crushed stone is poured - 10 cm.
- The top is done concrete screed, this creates a tilt towards the water receiver. Water should be drained either into a septic tank or further from the bathhouse into the ground, which should absorb water well.
- At the end of the pipe that drains the water, it is necessary to install a special lock that does not let odors into the bathhouse.
- Boards or narrow slats are mounted on the beams, so that there is a gap of one or two centimeters between them.
Attention: Wood must be processed special compounds allowing to extend the service life of the material.
Bulk floors
Having considered the previous two methods, it becomes clear that there is free space with the floor beams. As a result, in winter the lower part of the room is quite cool, and good insulation is required.
But you can do otherwise, and when deciding how to lay the floors in the bathhouse, you can avoid laying insulation or the entry of cold air in case of leaking floors.
This is done like this:
- Floor beams are not installed at all.
- A layer of sand, approximately 15-20 cm, is poured onto the ground and compacted.
- Either crushed stone or expanded clay is poured onto the sand, also in a layer of 15-20 cm, also leveled and compacted.
- A concrete screed is poured on top within 10 cm.
Wooden floors
Placed on the screed wooden joists, on which tongue-and-groove floor boards are already installed. And in the same way, if it is a steam room or a washing room, then a slope is made to allow water to drain. If this is a rest room or dressing room, then there is no need to tilt it.
Ceramic tile floor
You can do it differently; ceramic tiles can be laid very well on even concrete. Using tile adhesive and tiles, a very durable, strong and reliable floor can be installed.
Attention: For the floor in the bathhouse, a special one must be used, not slippery tiles, in order to avoid falls.
In conditions of high temperatures, such as in a steam room. It makes sense to lay cork mats or a lattice of wooden blocks on the floor.
Compared to wooden floors, concrete-based floors have advantages in that their price is lower and their service life is much longer. But concrete and tile floors cannot create an atmosphere of peace and comfort in a bathhouse.
The furnishings in a bathhouse with wooden floors and the same walls allow you to get complete rest, so before laying the floor in the bathhouse, you should think carefully about what will be healthier, and not cheaper.
Replacing the floor
Nothing lasts forever, and no matter how much we would like it, a situation often arises related to how to change the floor in a bathhouse.
There may be several reasons:
- The old floor has become unusable.
- It does not perform water drainage functions.
- He's simply tired of it.
- The floor is cold, slippery, etc.
And here, first of all, you need to look at what is available and what you want to get. Most often, the old coating is completely removed and an analysis is made of what remains under it.
Depending on the diagnosis, either everything is removed, after which the floor is installed as if it were new. Or cosmetic repairs are done and a new floor covering is laid.
Possible option complete replacement one type of floor to another. Then, too, everything old is removed and everything new is installed.
Conclusion
The floor in the bathhouse has the same important function as the walls and ceiling. And it largely depends on him temperature regime in the room and how comfortable it is to be in this room without shoes. Therefore, it is important to correctly, in compliance with all stages, install the floor elements and lay the floor covering.
Supply you additional information our portal can help you on this topic, as well as on issues related to construction and repairs.
Special attention should be paid to the arrangement of the floor in a private steam room. The level of comfort during use and the functionality of the bath itself depend on how well its design is thought out and implemented.
Materials for arranging floors in a steam room - what to use?
The floor base in the bathhouse performs several important functions at once. It not only ensures the safety of a person’s movement during water procedures, but is also part of the water removal system. A properly constructed floor in a bathhouse does not wear out prematurely, does not rot due to high humidity, and effectively retains heat in the room. In private steam rooms, the bases we are interested in are most often made of wood and concrete. Brick coverings are used much less frequently. They are expensive and quite difficult to build with your own hands.
If you want to build a permanent bathhouse made of stone or brick with a rest room, washing area, dressing room and use it all year round, experts advise choosing a concrete base. Him in mandatory need to be equipped with a well-thought-out water drainage system and effective waterproofing. But for small bathhouses, operated exclusively in summer time, simpler wood floors will do. They are built much faster and easier, are environmentally friendly, and have a very presentable appearance.
Wood bases have been used for a very long time. They create special comfort in the steam room, permeate the room with pleasant natural aromas, and make every bath procedure a small holiday for the true Russian soul. True, there are many disadvantages to wooden floors. The durability of such structures leaves much to be desired. No matter how hard you try to protect wood from the harmful effects of water, it will quickly lose its initial performance characteristics. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that after a while you will have to reinstall the wooden floors in the steam room.
Concrete structures are much preferable in terms of durability. They are not afraid of water and steam, temperature changes.
Concrete products can withstand even the most difficult conditions operation. On average, such bases are used for 40–45 years without additional repairs. Let us immediately note the obvious disadvantages of concrete pavements. They are very cold (for this reason a suitable finishing material, for example, tiles), labor-intensive to install with your own hands, require a significant investment of time and financial resources.
Concrete foundation - we build for centuries!
The floor for a concrete bathhouse is essentially a regular screed. It is made from a solution containing sand, cement and some special fillers (crushed stone, natural marble chips, gravel and others). We advise you not to bother mixing the required ingredients to obtain concrete composition and buy it right away ready mixture at the nearest hardware store. Factory-made sand-cement compositions in dry form are completely ready for use. They only need to be diluted with ordinary water in the recommended volume, thoroughly mixed with a hammer drill and nozzle, and then used for their intended purpose.
If the screed will serve as a finishing floor covering, or a simple flooring of boards will be installed on it, there is no need to add any special components to the purchased mixture. For cases where it is planned to lay tiles on top of a concrete coating, it is advisable to add a little anhydrite and gypsum to the cement-sand composition. It’s even easier to buy a self-leveling compound created specifically for such cases.
Concrete base for a bath can be mounted on logs or directly on the ground. The first stage of work is the arrangement of a basic system for water removal. It consists of an intermediate container (this role is usually played by small hole 0.4x0.4x0.3 m, dug in the ground) and two pipes. The walls and bottom of the hole should be concreted and a pipe with a cross-section of 20 cm should be brought to it. Its second end is led into an autonomous septic tank on the site or into a drainage ditch. We run another pipe from the pit into the bathhouse. It is advisable to equip this part of the system with a valve that prevents the penetration of unpleasant aromas into the steam room.
Next, we prepare the area for the screed. We remove the top layer of soil, pour sand into the resulting pit, tamp it down, and pour broken bricks or gravel on top. We should have a layer of approximately 0.25 m. Add 10 cm of crushed stone on top. Once again we tamp the whole cake and fill it sand-cement mixture(about 5–6 cm thick). Important nuance! The concrete layer must have a slight slope towards the pit-reservoir.
When the solution has hardened, lay it on mineral wool or polystyrene foam (you can add a layer of expanded clay or perlite). These materials play a role effective insulation. Be sure to put waterproofing under the polystyrene foam and cotton wool (it’s best to use roofing felt). We cover the thermal insulation with the same material. Then we mount metal mesh(wire). It makes it possible to perform high-quality reinforcement.
Now you can pour the main screed. We apply the solution from the far corner and gradually approach the exit from the steam room. When pouring, the composition must be leveled (you need to work with an assistant). We perform this operation with a trowel. And to tighten the concrete in a circular motion, we use the rule. After 2–3 days the screed will harden. You can lay plank or tile flooring on it. We install the trim with a two-centimeter slope towards the drain. If you plan to use concrete as a finishing coating (this is possible), simply carefully level and sand its surface. But remember that such a floor in a private bath will be cold. In winter, it is problematic to use a steam room with it.
Leaking wooden floor - acceptable quality with minimal labor costs
You can make a floor in a wooden bathhouse using two technologies. The first involves the construction of leaking foundations, the second - non-leaking ones. Advice. If the experience construction work If you have a small one, it’s better to fix leaking floors. They are made in the form of flooring from boards, between which gaps are specially left. Through them, used water goes into the ground. Insulation similar designs is not being produced, the sewerage system is not being built. Instead of the latter it is used simple pit for drainage. They dig it under the bathhouse.
You can make a floor in a bathhouse of this type using the following algorithm:
- 1. Level the area of land, cover it with a layer of gravel, which should be compacted well.
- 2. We prepare wooden logs (cut them to the required sizes, apply an antiseptic composition) and support pillars for them.
- 3. We mount the treated logs on the supports, maintaining a distance between individual elements of 0.5 m.
- 4. Lay the boardwalk. We leave gaps of 2–3 mm between the wall of the bathhouse, the floor and the boards being mounted.
There is no need to fix the flooring elements to the joists. It is recommended to regularly remove the coating described and place it in the sun to dry. If necessary, it is possible to replace rotten boards at any time. The service life of the described floor structure is 4–6 years. Then you will have to build a new one. Such leaky floors are best used in a country house where you visit from time to time and rarely use the steam room.
There is another way to arrange simple plank coverings. It is less difficult to implement. After preparing the plot of land, beams with a cross section of 10x10 to 15x15 cm should be placed along the perimeter of the foundation. Be sure to apply an antiseptic to them! We install logs on the beams, secure them, and install flooring from boards on top.
Both types of leaky floors can be constructed from hardwood and softwood. It is not recommended to lay oak boards. They become very slippery once wet. It is better to opt for products made from pine, linden or larch. The last option is considered the most optimal. One more nuance. The flooring is made from planed edged boards 4–5 cm thick. Thinner products in conditions high humidity won't last long.
Leak-resistant wood floor - environmentally friendly and quite reliable
Now let's try to make a leak-proof base correctly. It will take more time to build such a structure. But the result of the work will be of higher quality. Leak-resistant wood floors are suitable for steam rooms used year-round. The design of such foundations requires the arrangement of a rough intermediate coating and the mandatory installation of a heat-insulating layer. Due to this, the service life of such structures reaches 10–12 years.
We build a leak-proof floor in the bathhouse according to the following step-by-step guide:
- 1. We make a hole-reservoir, lay pipes for drains by analogy with arranging drainage for concrete pavements.
- 2. Prepare the site. We remove the layer of soil and fill the cleaned area with sand and gravel. We ram each layer of material. If desired, fill in a concrete screed (5–6 cm). This part of the operation is optional. If you want to save time and money, skip it.
- 3. Cover the floor base with a waterproofing layer. The best defender In this case, moisture will cause it to become roofing felt.
- 4. We carry out insulation using polystyrene foam or expanded clay. Mineral wool is not used for thermal insulation of non-leaking bases.
- 5. We install the logs in 0.5 m increments on the pre-assembled beams. To make the latter, you need to use 10x20 cm bars. These supports, as you remember, are fastened along the perimeter of the foundation.
Then we install the intermediate base. We fix the subfloor from below the beams. We cover it with an additional heat-insulating layer (mounted on roofing felt). We lay another layer on top of the insulation waterproofing material. The last stage of work is the installation of the finished floor. We install it with a slope, laying the boards close to each other. The finishing coating is attached to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws.
We take tongue and groove boards for non-leaking floors, 3–5 cm thick. We make logs from wooden blocks with dimensions of 5x7 cm. Please note! Bottom edge floor base made of wood must rise 10–20 cm above the level of the base (its upper edge) of the bathhouse. We hope that our instructions will help you build a truly reliable floor in your steam room.
This is very not an easy task, since it is necessary to take into account the numerous nuances of the arrangement of all its premises. These “subtleties” are, of course, determined by the specifics of bath conditions. Specifically, markedly high temperatures and humidity, direct contact of many surfaces to be finished with water, the need to maintain a special microclimate, increased sanitary and hygienic requirements for the arrangement of premises, and some others.
And one of the most “problem” areas is traditionally the floors. Not only their own durability, but also the comfort of staying in bathhouses as a whole directly depends on how correctly their design is selected and assembled. Therefore, the question of what is the best material to make the floor in a bathhouse from is one of the most important when planning such a construction.
Main types of bath floors
First, it’s worth understanding what floor designs can, in principle, be installed in a bathhouse, and what material they are made of. Suitable options not so much, since the specific microclimate has a very negative effect on most materials. In addition, the finishing of premises designed for constant high humidity and sudden temperature changes must be environmentally friendly and not emit toxic substances.
Therefore, today the floors in bathhouses are still made of wood or concrete. An innovation in the design is the possibility of organizing heated surfaces using modern “warm floor” systems.
Wooden floors
Be that as it may, wooden floors are still traditional for Russian baths. They were made in this building from time immemorial - they have not lost any of their relevance today. The only thing that many bathhouse owners add to the usual wooden structure is their insulation with such modern material as extruded polystyrene foam.
It makes sense to say a few words about the material that is chosen for arranging a wooden floor. Due to Since the floor covering will be constantly exposed to moisture, it is advisable to choose hardwood for the floor of bath rooms, which absorbs less moisture, since it has a dense structural structure. These species include oak, larch or alder.
Oak boards are quite expensive, and they are not so easy to find, so the best option would be a board made of larch or alder. Both have good wear resistance and low hygroscopicity. Although we note here that this wood is also not cheap, which is why many bathhouse owners prefer it pine boards, as the most affordable material in terms of price. But the durability of such coatings is not outstanding.
For a leaking floor, choose a flat board without grooves or tenons. And for a non-leaking structure, it is better to purchase tongue-and-groove boards, since only they have a good fit in progress installation can create an almost hermetic coating.
Despite the fact that the wood will be in a room with high humidity, it must initially be well dried, otherwise the board may “lead” after laying, and the floors will begin to deform.
The recommended board thickness for making floorboards varies from 25 to 40 mm. The selected thickness parameter will determine the step at which the logs should be installed to secure the finished plank flooring. The thicker the board, the greater the distance between the lags. So, under a 25 mm board it is necessary to lay logs in increments of up to 400 mm, and if a board 40 mm thick is chosen, then the distance between the logs can be increased to 600÷700 mm.
Prices for edged boards
edged board
So, wooden floors can be of two types, which differ in their design - a leaky and non-leaky floor.
Leaking wooden floor
This type of floor is designed in such a way that it does not retain moisture on its surface. To do this, a gap is left between the boards that form the surface, through which water flows out.
A leaky floor can be arranged approximately according to this scheme:
1
— log wall baths
2 – Skirting screen, protecting the lower part of the walls and corners of the room from direct water. Made from boards.
3 – Drainage backfill consisting of crushed stone and gravel.
4 – Drainage pit for water drainage, filled crushed stone-gravel mixture or waste of construction materials (for example, broken bricks, pieces of concrete, etc.)
5 – Leaking floor plank.
6 – Bases for plank planks flooring This option shows laid asbestos-cement. Instead, concrete or brick pillars can be installed as supports.
7 – Shut-off waterproofing between the base and lower crown walls.
8 – Bathhouse foundation, columnar, pile or strip.
9 – A compacted clay layer that redirects water spilled from above into the drainage pit (ditch).
The arrangement of the underground space of leaking floors can be done in different ways, using different materials:
- Previously, there was usually no special drainage area under the floor. The water from the bathhouse was drained directly into the ground. Therefore, the building itself was necessarily raised above ground level by at least 200 mm, usually by columnar foundation. And the bathhouse was built, if possible, on a slope so that moisture would not linger under it.
- Another system for draining water from the underground is shown in the diagram above. Under leaking floors there is a kind of drainage made of gravel and/or crushed stone. Water flowing down through the cracks in the floor is distributed in the backfill and slowly goes into the ground. If a compacted clay castle is made, then penetration does not go all the way area - surplus water gradually flows into the drainage hole. Due to the fact that the underground has the ability to ventilate, some of the moisture simply evaporates. This is facilitated by internal channels and drilled holes in asbestos concrete pipes that support the wooden flooring.
- If the bathhouse is built on sandy soil, then there will be no problems with water drainage, since it drains perfectly into the sand, and it will always be dry under the building.
- If the soil on the site is difficult for water to pass through, then under the floor you can dig a pit 300–400 mm deep, which is filled with sand. This option can be called the simplest in design. But with frequent use of the bathhouse, such drainage gradually begins to become swampy, and it is better not to consider this approach as a serious measure.
- More complex design underground leaking floor involves collecting and draining water into a drainage hole located at a certain distance from the bathhouse, or into a drainage trench (ditch). In order to organize this version of a bath floor with a drain, the first step is to dig a foundation pit whose walls are located at an angle and converge towards its central part. Then the slopes are covered with crushed stone, which is well compacted. After this, reinforcing mesh is laid on the crushed stone. Next, the slopes are concreted (item 1). In the central part of the underground, along its entire width or length, also using concreting, a gutter is created (item 2), into which water that has leaked through the floor will flow down the inclined walls. Instead of a gutter, a concrete pit can also be installed in the center or offset to one of the edges, which is connected by a sewer pipe (item 3) to drainage system(I my). The pipe is given the required slope (usually 5 cm per linear meter length), and water flows down it in a simple overflow.
And already above the concrete inclined base there are support pillars (item 4). Through the mandatory cut-off waterproofing (item 5), beams or joists (item 6) are laid on them, along which the plank bath floor (item 7) is laid with a gap between adjacent boards of approximately 5 mm.
If there is a desire to somewhat reduce the cost and speed up the process of arranging underground drainage, then the concrete can be replaced with a well-compacted clay covering. Compacted clay does not allow moisture to pass through well, so water will flow down such walls into a pit, and then into a drainage hole. But in this case there will certainly be more dirt.
Now that the underground space and water drainage scheme have been organized, you can proceed to the formation of the floor itself. Its design consists of three layers:
- these are the floor beams of the underground space (beams or logs);
- logs laid on the floor beams, perpendicular to them (sometimes the logs are not mounted, they are limited to the beams if they are located with a small step);
- plank flooring, the boards of which are fixed to logs (beams).
A gap of at least 5 mm is left between individual floorboards.
These gaps are necessary for free flow of water downwards. And the width of the gap is chosen taking into account the possible swelling of the wood when it is constantly waterlogged.
Some bathhouse owners make the leaking floor removable in order to ensure that the covering boards can be taken outside for ventilation and drying from time to time. If this option is chosen, it would be advisable to mount several boards from logs and boards, with such dimensions that carrying them to the flooring site and back to the street would not be particularly difficult. These panels are laid on top of the floor beams, but are not secured to them.
The advantages of this design include the simplicity of its installation, as well as the relatively low costs of its arrangement.
The most obvious disadvantage of leaking floors is that the bathhouse can be fully used only during the warm season or in regions with moderate winter temperatures. In the winter cold, bathhouses will quickly become cold, and heating them requires a large amount of fuel. And catching a cold in such a bathhouse, with a possible cold draft from below, costs nothing.
Prices for timber
Leak-proof design bath wooden floor
The design of a non-leakage floor involves arranging a boardwalk underneath with a slope to allow water to drain away. At the lowest point of this slope, there is either a gutter connected to a drainage pipe, or a drain is installed in the form of an opening covered with a grate (ladder).
The flooring boards are laid directly on the beams covering the space of the bathhouse, if insulation of the floors is not planned.
If the floor is insulated (and for a bathhouse this is very important), then the structure is assembled from several layers - these are floor beams, a subfloor, insulation and a finished plank covering.
The boards in the construction of a non-leaking floor should be fitted to each other as closely as possible. Therefore, as a rule, a tongue-and-groove board is chosen for flooring, which will guarantee the “tightness” of the flooring. This is especially important if it is planned to lay insulating material under the coating.
In addition, it is very important in this design to correctly calculate the slope of the floor. Water should flow well through it, but we must not forget about the comfort and safety of the people who will take bath procedures. Moreover, water and soap can make the surface slippery. Typically, a finished floor slope of 50 mm per linear meter of length is sufficient, which is, respectively, 5% or about 3 degrees in angular terms.
— To make it easier to form a slope, you can use a board or timber, cut at the desired angle and secured to the subfloor boards. These elements will become a kind of lags for laying a continuous finished floor.
Prices for drain pipes
a drain pipe
- At the designated place in rough floor cut a hole for installation drain pipe with a ladder. The drain hole itself should be located at the lowest point of the floor slope or in its center, if the floor slope is provided in this direction.
— The next step is to lay insulation boards between the joists on the subfloor - usually extruded polystyrene foam is used for this purpose, since it is not afraid of moisture. All gaps remaining between the joists and the insulation, as well as around the drain pipe, must be filled with foam.
— Then, on top of the insulation is laid waterproofing film, which is sewn to the joists with staples driven in with a stapler and slipped under the frame of the drain hole.
— The edges of the waterproofing material must be raised on the walls, to the height 150÷200 mm and secure with brackets.
— The plank flooring is being installed, with the floorboards fitting as tightly as possible. At the same time, they try to use hidden fastening technology so that the fastener heads (nails or screws) were completely hidden (this is very important for a bathhouse).
— Joints of parts drain ladder finished floor boards must be treated with silicone sealant.
— Then, the walls of the room are sheathed so that the waterproofing attached to them remains under the sheathing.
— At the final stage, the floor around the entire perimeter is framed with a plinth, which should also be located at an angle so that water falling on the walls flows down them onto the floors.
Wooden bath floors are not painted or varnished; they can be impregnated with drying oil or natural oils, which are applied in two to three layers.
The advantages of a leak-proof wooden bath floor include the following qualities:
- Possibility of creating an insulated structure.
- Possibility of using the bath at any time of the year.
- Creating the most favorable microclimate in bathhouses.
- Wood itself is a warm material, so bathhouse visitors will be comfortable in the room.
The disadvantages of a wooden floor of this design include the following:
- If the lumber is insufficiently processed, as well as in the absence or improperly organized ventilation, the floors may begin to rot or become covered at the edges with dark spots of mold.
- Wooden floors still cannot compete with concrete coverings in their durability.
Concrete floors in the bathhouse
Concrete floors in the bathhouse - also quite popular option. But their arrangement will require serious financial costs and will take a lot of time. But, having done them once, you can be sure that the structure will last 30-40 years without repair. However, for a concrete floor to last so long long term, it must be equipped according to all the rules, using high-quality materials.
If you decide to make the floors in the bathhouse concrete, you need to know how positive and negative qualities possess.
- As mentioned above, concrete covering is the most durable compared to all others.
- The material is not subject to rotting and is resistant to moisture.
- Once installed, a concrete floor does not require any special maintenance.
- A wide variety of concrete cladding with decorative materials is available.
- There is the possibility of laying under a screed or under facing tiles water or electrical system"warm floor".
- This design will cost much more than wooden floors.
- The process of arranging the coating is more labor-intensive and time-consuming, since you will have to wait for the concrete to mature before moving on to its finishing and further operation.
- If you do not use the “warm floor” system, the floors in the bathhouse will turn out cold, even if there is insulation material. Therefore, it is necessary to install wooden gratings on top of concrete or tiles.
- Concrete floors require a decorative coating, otherwise the floors will look unattractive.
The installation of concrete floors is carried out in several stages:
— The first step is to install a sewer pipe into the bathhouse, which will drain the spent water. Its vertical pipe should rise above the other preparatory layers.
— The surface of the earthen floor is leveled and thoroughly compacted. Sometimes it is necessary to carry out additional soil removal, since it is necessary to arrange sand and crushed stone (gravel) “pillows” under the concrete screed.
—
The next step A sand cushion 100÷1501 mm thick is poured onto the earthen floor, which will serve as a good waterproofing layer. The sand must be well compacted.
A layer of crushed stone or coarse gravel of the same thickness is laid on top of the sand, which also must be thoroughly compacted.
- Can be used for floor insulation bulk materials- the same expanded clay. It is distributed in the required layer over the sand and gravel backfill.
Cement prices
Extruded polystyrene foam is also quite suitable for insulation. From his slabs a continuous covering of the entire floor area is cut out. If small gaps or gaps remain (for example, around the perimeter of the room or around the pipe sewer pipe), they are filled with polyurethane foam.
— Insulation material recommended from above waterproof. To do this, the thermal insulation stand is covered with thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or any modern waterproofing agent. The sheets of waterproofing material are laid overlapping and hermetically sealed between a moisture-resistant adhesive tape or bitumen mastic. The canvases should be placed on the walls 100÷150 mm higher than the future screed.
— Then a reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top of the waterproofing layer.
- After this, they are placed on the floor surface metal beacons, which should not only set the thickness of the future screed, but at the same time create the necessary surface slope for organizing water drainage. Beacons are mounted from the drainage hole in the form of rays, diverging towards the walls, or in parallel with a slope towards one of the walls, if a linear collection of water is organized in the form of a gutter.
— Both with and without insulation, before pouring the solution along the entire perimeter of the future screed, a damper tape is attached to the lower part of the walls. This material is necessary to maintain the integrity of the concrete monolith during expansion under the influence of rising temperatures.
— Now you can pour concrete mortar and level its surface along the beacons. Leveling is carried out using building regulations, taking measures to compact the concrete as much as possible so as not to leave air cavities in its thickness.
— The leveled screed will completely harden and gain brand strength no earlier than in a month. Finishing work, if planned, can begin in about two weeks.
— Next, if you plan to cover the floors with ceramic tiles, then the surface of the screed is treated with a primer deep penetration, which is applied in one or two layers.
— After the primer has dried, you can cover the floors with ceramic tiles.
— Today, many owners of bathhouses under construction additionally equip the floors with heating systems. Most often, an electric “warm floor” is chosen - cable or using infrared rod mats. It is much easier to install it, and for this it is better to choose those varieties that can be laid directly under the ceramic coating.
Prices for ceramic tiles
ceramic tile
Water heating involves connection to a heating system. That is, it can only be resorted to if the bathhouse is located either directly in the house, or in an adjacent extension, or is located in close proximity, where pipes from the heating circuit can be installed without difficulties and large heat losses. And the contour of the warm floor itself will have to be laid before the screed is poured.
“Warm floor” is extremely comfortable!
But it will take a lot of work! Before you begin such a task, you need to read the instructions to really assess your capabilities. The publications on our portal dedicated to the independent creation of a system - the most difficult to implement, and electric "warmfloor" for ceramic tiles - here the task still looks simpler.
How to cover the concrete surface of a bath floor?
Concrete floors in bathhouses can simply become “iron.” That is, in wet surface Dry cement is rubbed into the screeds and left as is. Quite primitive, short-lived, and “gives away” public bath"Whatever you say. For such a floor you will need wooden gratings, as it turns out to be cold and unpleasant for bare feet.
A much higher quality, durable and simply beautiful option for finishing a concrete floor is ceramic tiles, which have all the qualities necessary for rooms with high humidity. In order for the tile to serve for a long time without the need for repairs, it is necessary to make high-quality masonry.
Laying ceramic tiles on the floor - can you master it yourself?
Of course, it is possible if you are careful and strictly follow the recommendations of the technological instructions. You can find such instructions by following the recommended link to the article on our portal.
When choosing ceramic tiles for tiling bath floors, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of its surface. In the bathhouse, the mole can be wet and slippery from soap or shampoo. So you shouldn't choose facing material With smooth surface, since the likelihood of falling and getting injured increases many times over.
Today on sale it is not difficult to find flooring that suits the color and pattern tiles with a relief surface, which does not have a glazed coating. This ceramic lining practically does not slip, even when wet.
Another material option that can be used for laying concrete floors is a wood-polymer decking board, the so-called decking. This material has numerous advantages and qualities that are perfect for bath rooms,
The positive qualities of such flooring include:
- Environmentally friendly material that does not contain formaldehyde, lead and other toxic additives.
- Absolute moisture resistance. Lifetime decking boards even in more severe street conditions is at least 30 years old.
- The material has high resistance to temperatures from -60 to 80 degrees.
- The boards have a well-designed textured surface, making it very difficult to accidentally slip on them.
- There is a fairly wide range of shades on sale. The color of the coating does not change under the influence of an aggressive environment.
- The material is hygienic, as it is not a favorable environment for the growth of mold or pathogenic bacteria.
- The board can be easily cut to any size and is very easy to install. Its weight is small, and flooring can be done without special effort bring to Fresh air for ventilation.
- The material is “warm” to the touch and can fully replace plank flooring.
Decking can be laid with boards on top of a concrete floor, or used in a leaky construction of bath floors, replacing a regular board with it.
Garden parquet - this covering option can also be used for laying on the concrete floor of a bathhouse, which has a drain. The material has all the qualities of a wood-polymer terrace boards and has a very aesthetic appearance. The convenience of this material is that, if necessary, the slabs can be very quickly dismantled, for example, for the convenience of cleaning a concrete floor, and then laid in place. Special system Their interlocking connections make such installation or dismantling generally a simple task.
Due to the fact that flooring manufacturers are constantly working on new materials, and they appear on sale from time to time, it is quite possible to choose a modern, original and affordable option for bath floors.
So, possible types of bath floor designs were considered, as well as the materials used Fortheir creation. Having such information, it will be easier to decide which option is most suitable for a particular room and will correspond to both the wishes and financial capabilities of the bathhouse owner
Some aspects of creating bath floors, obvious and quite controversial, are highlighted in the video presented to the reader’s attention:
Video: Options for creating high-quality floors in a bathhouse
The quality and reliability of floors in a bathhouse, especially in the steam room and shower, have a very strong influence on the convenience and comfort of its operation, as well as on the overall functionality of the structure. There is a fairly large number of different solutions and types of structures that can be used to make floors in a bathhouse. But in the vast majority of cases, the option with a wooden floor is used, which is optimal for baths, where wood is traditionally the main material.
Types of wooden floors in a bathhouse, their pros and cons
There are two types of wooden floors in the bathhouse:
Each design has its own advantages and disadvantages, which should definitely be studied before deciding which option to choose.
Advantages of leaky floor structures:
- the most budget option of all possible. The installation of leaking floors is much cheaper than non-leaking ones, and when compared with concrete and other floors, the difference in cost is simply huge;
- the simplest and least labor-intensive design, which can be easily done independently, without the involvement of highly paid professional builders.
Along with such significant and clearly visible advantages, leaking floors also have disadvantages, the main one of which is that they are cold. It is possible to use a bathhouse with a leaking floor structure in central Russia, mainly in the warm season. Otherwise, it is accompanied by significant heating costs or inconvenience in operation, since ensuring a comfortable temperature in rooms with such floors in cold weather is problematic.
The design of a non-leaky floor is, in fact, the opposite of a leaky floor, so it seems quite logical that the disadvantages of one of the designs smoothly flow into the advantages of the other. The advantages of a leak-proof floor are:
- this design makes it possible to ensure that the floors are warm, and the bathhouse can be used effectively at any time of the year;
- The service life of a non-leaking floor is much longer than that of a leaking one.
The main disadvantage of a non-leaking floor is that it is much more expensive than a leaking one, which is not at all surprising and is partly compensated for by much more comfortable conditions provided by them.
Based on the above, it is quite simple to determine the most suitable wooden floor design for a particular structure:
In any of the options, the decision remains with the owner of the bathhouse.
Almost all types of wood, both coniferous and deciduous, can be used as materials for making floors. The ideal option is to use larch, but this is a rather expensive and infrequently found material. The ubiquitous pine is used much more often, and linden is used a little less often. It is not advisable to use oak for flooring, as it becomes extremely slippery when wet.
Fixing a leaking wooden floor
The design of a leaking floor is the simplest of all possible. It does not require insulation, therefore, as mentioned above, it can only be used in the warm season.
A distinctive property of a leaky floor is the absence of a system for draining water from the surface. Used water flows freely through existing cracks in the floor, then falling into the ground. If the soil composition is clayey, it is necessary to provide for further drainage of water into a drainage pit or well.
The sequence of work on installing a leaking floor when laying joists on the ground:
At high-quality implementation work, the estimated service life of a leaking wooden floor can be 4-5 years. After this, most of the flooring will have to be replaced.
The most common type of wood used is pine; linden and aspen are used slightly less frequently. Edged planed boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm are used as a plank covering. The most common option is 5 cm.
Installation of a leak-proof wooden floor
The technology for installing a leak-proof floor in a bathhouse is somewhat more complicated and includes the following steps:
The material for the plank flooring is edged planed board, the thickness of which should not be less than 3 cm. Most often, a tongue and groove board is used. For logs, a wooden beam of 50*50 or 70*50 mm is used, for beams, if necessary, 100*100 mm or larger sizes.
When constructing non-leaking floors, a variety of wood species, both coniferous and deciduous, can be used. Traditionally, pine or linden are most often used for baths.
The approximate service life of leak-proof wooden floors with proper design and care is at least 10 years.
Features of flooring in different rooms of the bathhouse
Traditionally, a bathhouse consists of three premises required for a bathhouse:
- steam room (steam room);
- shower room (washing room);
- locker room (rest room).
There is also often a dressing room in the bathhouse.
Each room has its own requirements for the design and properties of the floor.
The most requirements are placed on the floor design in the steam room and wash rooms. The options described above are suitable specifically for such premises.
The following should also be taken into account:
- in the washroom. Both wooden floor designs are suitable - both leaky and non-leaky. The choice of a specific option depends on the operating conditions of the bath. The main aggressive factor operating in the washing room is constant high humidity. Therefore, it is important to provide either the possibility of dismantling and subsequent drying of the flooring of a leaking floor in the washing room, or constant ventilation of the premises in order to dry the wood. This will significantly increase the service life of the floor in the washing room. Besides, great importance under the conditions under consideration, a normally functioning ventilation system is acquired, which can also have a positive effect on increasing the service life of the floor;
- in the steam room. In addition to high humidity, this room is additionally exposed to high temperatures. Both types of wooden floors can be used. The basic requirements for operation are similar to the floors in the washing room;
- in the rest room (locker room). The floors in the rest room are used under almost normal conditions, with normal humidity and temperature. Therefore, there is no need to provide a water drainage system; a conventional floor design is quite sufficient;
- in the dressing room. There are no special requirements for the design or construction of the floor. Conventional wooden floors are made using any convenient technology.
Finishing can be done on a plank floor covering, in which any flooring material can be used.
The floors in the bathhouse are not at all a trifle, as it may initially seem. The methods of their installation differ from the technologies used in residential premises, primarily in that bath floors are part of sewer system. At correct installation the bath compartments will be dry, despite the constant humidity in these rooms. And this means the absence of mold, mildew and a long service life of this iconic establishment for all Russians. There are different methods for laying floors in a bathhouse, so you need to choose an acceptable one and adapt it to your construction. It is quite possible to make bath floors yourself, you just need to have general concepts about the principles of their installation and the differences between the schemes.
Laying floors in the washing area
The washing area is perhaps the main room of the bathhouse. This is where visitors spend most of their time between short visits to the steam room.
Water constantly flows in large volumes in the washing compartment, which is why maximum attention must be paid to the arrangement of this bath area. Especially when laying floors, since they are the ones that are most susceptible to moisture and temperature changes, it depends on them whether the washroom will be comfortable and warm or uncomfortable and cold.
There is always a lot of water in the washing room, so the floors should be well ventilated and dry quickly
The high humidity of this room places special demands on the flooring so that it does not collapse in a fairly short period of time. The floors in the washroom should:
- resist thermal changes and prevent drafts;
- be breathable and dry quickly;
- ensure normal ventilation, free flow of water, and acceptable floor temperature.
Taking these requirements into account, the bathhouse owner must consider all types of floors and choose the most suitable one. Moreover, you need to decide on the materials for the floor before pouring the screed.
Floor structures for washing area
The surface temperature of the bath floor rarely exceeds 30 °C, since the floor should be warm, not hot, pleasant for bare feet, and not such that even bath slippers would melt. Therefore, you can use any material for its assembly - wood, tiles, clay, concrete and others.
Do not use synthetic surfaces. Chemicals have no place where there is high temperature and humidity.
Any flooring has its pros and cons:
Let's look at the most common options for bath floors.
Wooden floor in washroom
Deciduous and coniferous lumber are suitable for its arrangement: cedar, spruce, oak, ash, larch, fir. It's better to choose conifers, since the resin they produce significantly increases the service life of floors. In addition, wood has a healing effect on the body, and even when wet wood flooring does not slip, which is additional safety for visitors.
The advantages of wooden floors include:
- simplicity and ease of installation;
- naturalness, environmental friendliness and durability;
- low cost of work.
The disadvantages are the following:
If you stopped at wooden floors, then you should know that depending on the drainage device, they come in two types: leaking and non-leaking structures.
In turn, leaking floors differ in laying scheme:
Let's consider the sequence of work for installing leaking floors.
- A hole is dug in the middle of the underground.
- A trench is broken from its bottom in the direction of the drainage ditch, in which a sewer (waste) pipe is laid with an inclination towards the drainage basin of approximately 3–4° (the approximate difference in height along the entire trench is 5 cm for each linear meter).
The sewer pipe for draining water is laid with a slope towards the water inlet
- The foundation of the bathhouse is erected and waterproofed.
- After this, along the entire border of the subfloor from the base walls (or pillars), the earth is removed, again with a slope of 10° towards the dug hole.
- Then the slopes of the slope are covered with crushed stone and compacted well (for greater strength, you can lay reinforcing mesh with cells of about 80x80 mm). Everything is filled with dense concrete mortar, which is leveled and smoothed. To reduce the cost of work, you can use well-mixed clay instead of concrete. It is laid out in a 10-centimeter layer, leveled and, as it dries, moistened with water and smoothed.
- Next, the foundation walls, if provided for by the technology, are tied with a metal belt and mounted beam structures, treated with an antiseptic. The lower crown bars are attached to the trim, and if there is none, then to the base walls using anchors or studs).
Floor joists in the bathhouse do not need to be plugged in crown molding, then they can be easily replaced if necessary
- Floor boards with gaps are laid on the floor beams. The thickness of the boards depends on the distance between the joists, but should not be less than 20 mm.
Simple and reliable floors with slots for water drainage are quickly installed and easily replaced with new ones.
Often the boards are not attached to the beam vault, but are connected to each other with timber and the finished panels are simply laid on top. The beam must be located among the floor beams. It is very convenient to take out such shields for drying.
The equipment diagram for non-leaking floors is not much different from the one described above in principle, although it is more complex in implementation. The difference is that the boards are laid without gaps on the rough flooring, for which second-grade wood is quite suitable.
For such floors, the logs are deepened into the concrete or clay layer (possibly into the soil itself), and waterproofing sealed with sealant is laid on top. The space between the joists is filled with insulation. The subfloor is made with a slope towards the grated drain hole, through which water from the washing room enters the sewer network or sewage pit and covered with polyethylene, then a wooden flooring is installed.
In the scheme for arranging non-leaking floors, water flows into a specially equipped hole along an inclined plane
It is impossible to disassemble such floors for drying, so it is necessary to provide excellent ventilation so that the wooden floor of a leak-proof structure does not rot prematurely. This is its disadvantage, but the leak-proof assembly is stronger and more durable and provides the possibility of heating to ensure maximum comfort from water procedures even in severe frosts.
Under the finishing coating of a non-leaking floor, you can install heating
Selection of materials for the drain device
Let’s say right away that you cannot save on materials for arranging floors in the washing room. You need to choose the best, modern ones that will be effective for years. To create a wastewater system, it is necessary to use plastic building materials that do not corrode, are resistant to getting wet, are easy to assemble and can be used without losing their qualities for more than 50 years.
These can be pipes made of PVC, HDPE, PVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride), polypropylene or corrugated polyethylene products. Any of them are perfect for installing internal drainage in a bathhouse.
The diameter of the pipes is selected according to the intensity of use of the bath:
- if there is a steam room, sauna, toilet (i.e. several drain points), then pipes Ø 100–110 mm will be required;
- without the use of plumbing, only pipes Ø 50 mm are sufficient to drain water.
Material calculation and tools
For organization internal drain in the washing department, you need:
- pipes Ø 110 or Ø 50 - the quantity is calculated depending on the length of the drainage network;
- adapters from Ø 50 to Ø 110 for connecting pipes of different diameters;
- tees 110x110x90 and 90° elbow - 3 pieces each;
- vertical pipes for installing water inlets (Ø 110 or Ø 50);
- cement, crushed stone and sand.
Materials are purchased according to the chosen installation method. The same applies to tools. But in any case you will need:
- building level;
- Bulgarian;
- bayonet shovel.
Concrete floor in the washing area
Concrete flooring is the most common due to its low cost and ease of installation.
After hardening, you can make flooring from cork slabs or wooden gratings and install a drain.
For safety reasons, it is better not to cover the concrete floor. tiles or lay wooden lattice panels on top.
Other types of floors in the washing room
Those who honor long-standing bath traditions install an earthen floor in the wash room. The process of laying it is extremely simple - cut off the top layer of soil by approximately 15 cm around the entire perimeter of the room and compact the remaining soil.
If you really respect the customs of your ancestors, then you need to dig a pit half a meter deep and fill it with mixture fine sand and gravel. If desired, you can lay boards on top.
Previously, bathhouse floors were installed directly on the ground, after first cutting off its top layer and compacting the base
We have already talked about clay floors, but despite all the advantages of clay itself, such a floor has a big drawback - clay does not dry well, and when dry, it forms cracks into which water seeps. As a result, a persistent unpleasant swampy smell appears in the wash room over time.
In a word, wood is the best choice, although it can be combined with other materials.
Video: do-it-yourself correct floors in a washing bath
Floor covering in the washing room
The floor is ready, it's time to think about protecting it. Everyone knows about antiseptics; you shouldn’t neglect them or skimp on them. Processed wooden elements even before the main work begins, otherwise the wooden flooring can be damaged. The antiseptic does not change the texture of wood, does not contain heavy metals and harmful salts, and perfectly protects wooden components from biological damage.
It is also recommended to use good varnish. Before applying it, you need to prepare the surface well. It must be clean, without greasy stains, polished to a mirror finish and dry. The varnish is applied in several layers, after it has completely dried, the bathhouse needs to be heated and ventilated.
The varnish must be applied to a pre-sanded and well-cleaned surface.
The floors can also be painted. Only the paint must be of the highest quality and absolutely harmless when heated.
Besides this, there is folk remedies for flooring - the use of waste from sunflower oil processing. They are applied with a roller to a thoroughly cleaned and dried surface. Repeat 2-3 times at intervals of three days. This coating is safe, gives the wood a beautiful shade, and is practically free.
If the floor in the bathhouse is concrete, then it needs to be covered finishing material, because in itself it looks unattractive. The concrete floor is covered with solid floor boards, porcelain stoneware or ceramic slabs, parquet, and cork products.
In principle, any material is suitable, as long as it meets all safety rules. As for the rest, everything depends on the intended design, on the personal preferences of the bathhouse owner and on his financial capabilities.
Laying the floor in the steam room
Although the steam room is the heart of the sauna, the floors in it, surprisingly, are the least significant segment of the entire sauna project. The main thing here is the wall partitions and the ceiling. Remember how primitive everything was among our great-grandfathers. They threw plank blocks or chopped logs on the ground and this was enough to take a bath with pleasure even in areas with severe winters. Cold feet? They splashed some hot water and that was it. Nobody complained and my health was excellent.
Therefore, you should not pay too much attention to laying the floors in the steam room. Some advise installing floors in a steam room with insulation, vapor barrier and subflooring. Of course, this is very modern, but for a steam room it will be a waste of money.
As practice shows, a simple scheme for arranging floors in a bathhouse is the best
And why drive moisture deep into the wood? It is much better and easier to create conditions for the free passage of water, and then take care of drying and ventilation. And it is much more important to make the floors in the steam room non-slip to avoid injury.
If the steam room is combined with a washing compartment, then there is no structural difference between them, everything is common and identical, the floors in this case are arranged according to the methods described above.
When the steam room is a separate zone and there is no need for an outlet large quantity water, then the floor is laid from edged boards with small chamfers (deck board). The slots may be a little narrower.
The deck board is made from larch and therefore resists moisture well
Much easier with concrete floors- they are done in exactly the same way as in all sections of the bathhouse. A wooden ladder must be laid on top, since the bare, uncovered concrete slab not too pleasant.
The installation of the floor in the steam compartment, as well as in the entire bathhouse, is an excellent indicator: if after laying it in the bathhouse it is cold, then look at the ceiling, most likely there are problems with the vapor barrier there.
What to make a steam room floor from: choosing the best material
Of course, wood is beyond competition:
And what absolutely cannot be used for floors in a steam room is linoleum, chipboard and fiberboard. Wood boards are easily flammable, and non-natural materials can release hazardous substances at high temperatures.
Equipment for a concrete floor in a steam room
It is advisable to purchase all the necessary building materials from one manufacturer. This will add strength to the entire structure as a whole. Need to purchase:
- edge tape;
- sand, cement M200 or 300 and gravel;
- primer, roofing felt and dry mixture of self-leveling screed.
Tools for work
To complete the entire process of equipping the floor in the steam room you will need:
- protective equipment for eyes and hands;
- bayonet shovel and construction level;
- a basin for mixing the solution or a bucket;
- concrete mixer and mixer;
- rollers (needle and for priming);
- rules and construction trowel;
- gas burner for soldering roofing felt.
Step-by-step instructions for laying a concrete floor in a steam room
- Preparation of the solution. You will need a concrete mixer into which the components of the solution are placed - sand, grade 200 or 300 cement and gravel in a ratio of 2:1:3. It makes no sense to use other grades of cement (higher grades), this will only increase the cost of the work. Add water and bring to the required consistency.
Sand, gravel, cement and water are used to prepare the solution.
- Adjusting the subfloor. The soil in the steam room is covered with roofing felt, cut into sheets, and gas burner the seams are soldered. It is needed as a waterproofing agent. A 10-centimeter layer of concrete is applied on top of the roofing felt with a construction trowel, after which the entire screed is leveled using a rule. When the solution is completely dry, proceed to the next step.
After pouring is completed, the concrete layer must be leveled using the following rules:
- Final alignment. Literally down to the millimeter is done final alignment concrete layer. For this, a self-leveling mixture is used. Before laying it, the surface is cleaned of debris and dust, and then primed. The primer is applied with a regular roller.
- Applying a self-leveling screed solution. Along the entire length of the steam room, the bottom of the wall is covered with edge tape. This is done so that the screed does not stick to the wall and does not burst in the future. The dry self-leveling mixture is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the packaging and mixed with a mixer until smooth. After this, it is poured evenly over the entire surface and leveled with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.
- Finishing work. The floor filled with self-leveling screed is left to dry and only then finishing work begins.
Video: pouring screed in a bathhouse with your own hands
Steam room floor covering
Some people believe that there is no need to use any impregnation in the steam room, arguing that the bath should give health and not emit harmful fumes at high temperatures. It's hard to disagree with this. But there is another side to the coin - physical deterioration and rotting.
Not only the wood with which the steam room is sheathed needs protection, but even the concrete floor screed loses its properties over the years. Plus, untreated, it accumulates dust, which lovers of hot steam breathe.
If this is of little concern to the owner of the bathhouse and he is ready to change the lining of the steam room (including replacing or repairing the floor) every 5 years, then, of course, no impregnations or oils. Otherwise, the steam room needs to be treated and it is advisable to use natural wax and oils specifically designed for saunas and steam rooms.
Linseed oil emphasizes the structure of wood, creates on its surface protective film and does not emit harmful substances when heated
Concrete floor screed can be treated with organic and inorganic impregnations. This will increase the wear resistance of concrete and prevent excessive dust accumulation. But you need to apply impregnations in a steam room thoughtfully, carefully studying the instructions and composition.
There are many schemes for arranging floors in washrooms and steam rooms. All of them are accessible and understandable. You can implement them yourself. You can even use several technologies at the same time; this combination will give good drainage and a flat surface. But as practice shows, the technology that is simpler is better. Good luck and have fun.