Laying fiberboard on a wooden floor. How to fix hardboard on a wooden floor, fastening technology Fibreboard flooring

What is fiberboard and what types of boards exist, the pros and cons of the material, features of use and selection rules, the technology of mounting wood sheets on the floor using wooden logs, glue and mastic.

Description and types of fiberboard for the floor

Fiberboard (Fibreboard) is a sheet construction material... The front side of the product is smooth, the wrong side has a mesh structure.

The raw materials for the production of fiberboard are waste from sawmills and wood processing, firewood, as well as technological chips. After steaming and grinding it, fibers are formed, which are scraps of wood tissue, individual cells, groups of cells. Fibreboard is obtained from such wood fiber, which is formed in the form of a carpet.

Fiberboard can be of different density. According to this criterion, the plates are divided into the following groups:

Soft fiberboard... Their density is not higher than 350 kg per cubic meter. Such slabs have high porosity, low density and are suitable for insulation work, floor and wall insulation. They have low sound and thermal conductivity. They are divided into three types: M-1, M-2 and M-3.
Semi-hard fiberboard... They have a density of at least 850 kg per cubic meter. They are used in the manufacture of back walls of furniture, drawers.
Solid fiberboard... Their density is 800-1000 kg per cubic meter. They have low porosity and are used in the production of panel doors and furniture. There are such types: T, T-S, T-P, T-SP.
Superhard fiberboard... They have a density of at least 950 kg per cubic meter. Their level of porosity is very low. They are used in construction and for finishing works, creation of partitions, flooring, in the manufacture of furniture, doors, temporary buildings. They have a smooth front side coated with paint, varnish or primer. Moreover, source materials in the production of such boards, they are treated with pectol, which increases the strength of fiberboard by 20%.

Fiberboard sheets have standard factory dimensions. The length ranges from 1220 to 3000 millimeters. Width - 1220-1700 millimeters. It is rather inconvenient to transport such sheets by hand, so you will definitely need a cargo taxi service or a car with a trailer.

As for the thickness, this figure can vary from 2.5 to 40 millimeters, depending on the type of plate and its density. Fiberboard is most often 8, 12, 16 and 25 millimeters thick. These are slabs of medium and low density, which, as a rule, are not used for finishing work. Semi-solid slabs are 6, 8 and 12 millimeters thick. Hard as well as superhard fiberboards are produced with a thickness of 2.5, 3.2, 4.5, 6 millimeters. Walls and floors can be clad with such materials.

Advantages and disadvantages of fiberboard flooring

Fiberboard is often used as a subfloor laying material. They are suitable for mounting on almost all surfaces. If you observe certain rules, then it will be possible to easily attach the sheets even to the old coating.

Laying fiberboard on the floor has many advantages:

Low price of this building material. This type of rough flooring is budgetary, and installation costs are minimal.
No time-consuming work - the process of laying the slabs is very simple. There may be some problems when installing logs, but to avoid them, you need to carefully calculate the layout of the boards on the floor.
Absolute environmental friendliness of the plates. The sheets are based on natural wood. Therefore, they can be used to create flooring in bedrooms, nurseries and game rooms.
The strength and durability of fiberboard, provided that boards of appropriate density are used. However, such a coating should not be exposed to heavy loads and should not be directly exposed to water on it.

The disadvantages of this building material include the following:

Low level of fire resistance. At the slightest interaction with fire, the coating will quickly ignite.
Relatively low wear resistance. For reinforcement, on top of the slabs, topcoat so that they do not wear out and rub off so quickly. In addition, the finish will add aesthetics to the flooring.
Low level of moisture resistance. Fiberboard sheets tolerate moisture better than, for example, chipboard, but, nevertheless, it is not recommended to install them in the bathroom or in the kitchen, because this way the coating quickly deforms. For finishing in such premises, it is better to use water panels, gypsum fiber or moisture-resistant plywood.

Features of the use of wood-based panels

Fiberboard is not recommended to be laid in rooms where water and aggressive chemicals can get on the boards. But today, thanks to the development of technologies, they are improving and performance these plates, which helps to significantly expand the scope of the material.

Modern fiberboard on the floor have excellent performance, but it is worth noting some small restrictions when installed indoors:

It can be laid in dry rooms with a low level of humidity (no more than 60%) and temperature indicators of more than +10 degrees.
The slabs must not be placed on the floor in rooms where they will be subjected to a large force load, for example, in shops or warehouses. Under mechanical action such flooring will quickly collapse.
Wood boards are practically not used as a finishing floor, but for a rough floor they are excellent. Fiberboard flooring is an ideal base for laying parquet and laminate. Also, with the help of these plates, you can level or insulate the floor.

Remember the safety of using the stoves: if you purchased them more than twenty years ago, and before that they were stored in an unauthorized place, the material can be dangerous. Previously, the technology for making fiberboard sheets was different. To make the fibers in the boards stick better, unsafe products were used. Such plates cannot be installed in a residential building!

How to choose the right fiberboard for the floor

To buy quality material, you need to know several basic criteria for choosing plates:

Be sure to study the fiberboard certificate for the presence of harmful components. Some manufacturers, in order to improve the density and moisture resistance, add hazardous components, for example, formaldehyde, to the composition of the plates (or rather to their fibers). The presence of this substance indicates that the material is not intended for installation in residential premises. This is extremely dangerous! It is almost impossible to determine by eye whether the panels have this component. Therefore, ask the consultant for documents for building materials. They should clearly indicate that the fiberboard has passed sanitary and epidemiological control. When buying, stop your choice on trusted manufacturers.
Carefully inspect each wood panel for any visible production or transport damage and scrap. Manufacturing defects include oil or paraffin stains, bulging and blistering on the surface of the boards. The only drawback that is allowed on fiberboard sheets is a small spot no more than two centimeters in size. Remember that panels become flammable when combined with oil or paraffin stains.
Pay particular attention to technical specifications material and marking of sheets. So that it can be long time to operate, the thickness and density of the wood boards is important. The level of moisture resistance is also important. All fiberboard should be selected according to technical indicators, based on the room in which you will lay them.

Fiberboard mounting technology on logs

If you lay wood-based panels on logs, then the floor will turn out to be warmer than when working with screeds. Also, working with this type of flooring, traces of fiberboard fastening to the logs will be practically invisible.

Preparatory work before laying fiberboard

Before laying the fiberboard on the floor, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work according to this scheme:

Once you have brought the panels into the room, moisten them with a little water, and stack them on top of each other. Installation can be started the next day. Thus, you will protect the material from possible deformation.
Further, if necessary, we dismantle the old coating and skirting boards. All paint should be removed from the floor and all debris removed.
Fill the gaps between the coating and the wall with polyurethane foam... After it hardens, cut off the protruding remnants.
Also, the gaps can be sealed with a filler for moving surfaces.
We examine the old floor covering for the presence of mold or mildew; if necessary, we replace these places, since they should in no case remain under the new panels. After replacing the damaged areas, the surface is treated with a fungicidal primer or a special antiseptic solution for wooden materials.

Installing lags on the floor

With the help of lags, you can correct the slight curvature of the floor, align its drops, slopes or unevenness. It is recommended to pre-process them. special formulations that will protect them from pests, fungi and decay.

They need to be fixed according to the following scheme:

Dry and straight bars with a thickness of about 30-50 millimeters, we install it on the main coating with a step of about 50 centimeters.
All logs should be located strictly horizontally. You can check their evenness using a building level or a long ruler.
In the assembly of the lags, we use special zinc locknuts, which will not allow the fasteners to move freely along the thread. Thanks to these devices, the nuts will not loosen and loosen the entire structure. The lock nut itself should go a little deeper into the wood structure.
We fix the bars on the old coating, and where wooden planks absent, we lay pieces of timber or pieces of wood under the logs.

Rules for attaching fiberboard to logs

It is recommended to start the installation of slabs on logs from the corner that is opposite to the entrance to the room. Before laying fiberboard on the floor, study the scheme of work:

We attach the fiberboard to the joists with screws, self-tapping screws or nails. The step is about an inch along the edge and one and a half centimeters in the center.
Do not forget to leave between the wall and the coating 5-10 millimeters per thermal expansion... In the future, it will be possible to close it with a plinth.
The seams of the slabs must necessarily converge on the bars.
The next row of material should fit snugly, leaving a small gap of maximum two to three millimeters.
All subsequent panels are stacked in the same way in rows.

When installing fiberboard, you will need to trim them. It's easy to do using a hacksaw, jigsaw, hand saw... To get holes in the sheet for a pipe, you can use the usual sharp knife... If you need a more complex cutting, it is recommended to pre-make a cardboard template and cut the slab along it.

Fiberboard laying technology on glue

Wood-based panels can be installed on a pre-leveled base surface using glue. The preparatory stage in this case is identical to the one that preceded the fastening of the fiberboard to the logs.

We work according to the instructions:

Apply the glue to the entire surface of the material; it must be well and evenly distributed, without spreading.
We give the sheets 30-40 minutes to dry.
We also apply the adhesive composition to the previously primed and well-dried surface of the base.
Press down the sheet horizontally.
Press the next product tightly against the previous one.
Be sure to check each fixed sheet for evenness and horizontality using a level.

Note! When laying the next row of fiberboard, you need to displace the joints of the plates by 40-50 centimeters in relation to the previous row. This will give the floor more strength and the load will be evenly distributed.

Fiberboard fixation technology with mastic

Installation of plates on concrete screed much easier than lagging. But most importantly, such styling must necessarily be carried out on a perfectly flat surface. If the base has slight irregularities, then they must be leveled with cement mortar... For laying on a concrete floor, strong and thick fiberboard is used. You will also need mastic in the work.

We carry out the installation according to the following scheme:

We carefully prime the screed surface.
Half an hour before the start of the installation process, we apply cold mastic on the bottom side wood-based panels and leave them aside.
We immediately process the entire surface of the screed with mastic. The thickness of the composition should not be more than 0.6 mm.
Hot mastic apply immediately before fixing so that it does not have time to cool down. The layer of the product is no more than one millimeter, we level it over the surface of the sheet and the screed using a rubber comb.
The final stage of installation - it is necessary to firmly press the fiberboard to the base.

Features of finishing fiberboard flooring

The final treatment of the fiberboard floor helps to increase the service life of the boards. The main thing is to carefully prepare the surface so that it is perfectly smooth and even, since it will be impossible to correct defects after painting.

We work according to the following instructions:

We clean the floor from the remnants of glue or primer.
All gaps between the panels are sealed with putty or reinforcing tape.
Carefully rub with fine sandpaper all seams.
If there are stains, then we treat them with a degreaser.
We remove all dust from the surface with a vacuum cleaner.
We cover the boards with paint or varnish in two layers. We apply with a spray gun, roller or brush.

How to lay fiberboard on the floor - watch the video:

With wood-based panels, you can assemble quality flooring with a minimum of effort. Before leveling the fiberboard floor, it is necessary to carefully study the technical characteristics of the plates and choose suitable material for the room being repaired, and then it remains to comply with the technology of execution installation works.

This may be due to its unevenness, damage, the need for insulation, sound insulation, or simply updating. In view of the huge abundance of building materials, many are lost in the choice: what kind of fit better... Whatever the choice: linoleum, parquet or laminate, you cannot do without a good and reliable base. For him, such a common building material as hardboard is perfect, the price of which is absolutely acceptable for such work.

Many have heard the name hardboard, but most do not even know what it means. This is one of the types of fiberboard (fiberboard).

Production technology

Hardboard is a material made from waste from the forestry and woodworking industries. The main waste is various types and sizes of sawdust, shavings, wood fiber, etc. They are mixed with special binders based on polymer resins, then mixed and placed in a hot press. The material is produced in the form of a solid tape, which is subsequently cut into sheets.

On one side, the sheet has smooth surface, which is called the front side, on the other side, the surface is corrugated and is called the back side. The front side has a more aesthetic appearance, while the back side adheres better to various adhesive mixtures. In addition to polymers, which make the sheet durable, rosin and paraffin are also added to its composition, which make it water-repellent. Thanks to this composition given view material is absolutely environmentally friendly. In addition, regardless of the type of exposure, it does not emit any harmful substances.

Let us dwell in detail on laying hardboard on the floor.

Stage 1: preparation of the surface and materials

First, we need to clean the surface on which we will lay the sheets from various debris, dust and dirt.

If you will be laying hardboard directly on newly made concrete, it is important to make sure it is dry enough. Otherwise, hardboard for the floor will draw moisture from the concrete and deteriorate from this (warp, swell). Before laying the sheets, the screed must be primed. This will significantly extend the service life of the hardboard base. In addition, for the same purpose, many craftsmen recommend impregnating hardboard sheets before laying with drying oil. In the very room where the work will be carried out, it is necessary to maintain a dry (humidity not more than 58 - 59%) and a warm climate, and the air temperature should be at least +5 degrees C.

The sheets themselves, in accordance with generally accepted norms, must be laid out in a dry room and left for a day in order to prevent warping.

Stage 2: fitting

Fiberboard is laid out on a dry floor, adjusting them to the required dimensions. Where it is necessary, the sheets are cut to protruding corners, pipes.

At this stage, fiberboard is laid, but without gluing or fastening to the floor. In this way, you can avoid extra costs in the form of damaged sheets, because adjusting is much easier when the sheet is not smeared with adhesive. It is important to remember that the plates must be laid apart and do not allow 4 corners to converge in one place.

Stage 3: styling

Having prepared the base under the window, we proceed directly to laying the sheets and securing them. If you decide to glue the slabs directly onto concrete, you can use KN-3 rubber mastic, KS-3 construction glue (not a water base necessarily), BOSTIK kp2 (kp5). Some masters also use very hot (up to 180 degrees C). After warming up, he needs to stand for 2-3 hours for the moisture to evaporate. After that, it is laid on the floor and the sheets are glued.

In the process of gluing, it is important to make through cuts in them. This will prevent them from deforming. In addition, immediately after installation, the hardboard sheet must be well pressed with the help of some heavy object. When the glue is dry, you can start gluing the second layer of fiberboard, if necessary. Only at the end of these works is it possible to lay linoleum on hardboard.

The following video illustrates this process.

One of best options is the laying of slabs on wooden logs... To begin with, it is advisable to spread it over the entire plane of the floor waterproofing film... After that, the logs are attached to the floor at a distance of no more than 30 cm using dowels. On uneven areas, use battens to level the floor. Next, we make a transverse crate. The size of the cell should not exceed 30X30 cm. When the crate is ready, we can attach sheets to it with self-tapping screws. The distance between the screws along the perimeter of the slab should be 15-20 cm, and on the inner plane - 20-30 cm.

All work is greatly simplified and accelerated if the hardboard is mounted on a wooden floor. In this case, it is enough to adjust the sheets to the size of the room and simply screw them to the floor with screws or nail them down. You can pre-lay a waterproofing or soundproofing coating.

Stage 4: final processing

We have already finished laying, now we need to close up the seams between adjacent slabs. For this we use a putty. If you used self-tapping screws for fastening, they also need to be putty. Having finished the cosmetic work, you can safely proceed to the planned flooring, laminate or carpet.

Fiberboard is one of the most demanded today sheet materials... Widely used in various areas of the national economy, fiberboard is often used in construction renovation works Oh. In particular, the laying of fiberboard on a wooden floor as a base or as a finishing floor has gained wide popularity.

In order to save on expensive specialist services, most home craftsmen spend similar works do it yourself. This is a fairly simple procedure, and when the right approach it allows you to achieve truly high results. We will talk about how to fix fiberboard to a wooden floor in this article.

Advantages of laying fiberboard on the base

Fiber boards are made by hot pressing woodworking and sawmilling waste with the addition of antiseptics, synthetic resins, and various stabilizing substances.

Such a composition and manufacturing technology provide a number of serious advantages over natural wood, namely:

Acceptable price.
Dense structure in which nails, screws, screws are perfectly "held".
Lacquered surface that does not require any additional processing.
High strength.

Flaws:

Fiberboard loses to wood in terms of appearance.
Such coatings wipe quickly enough, so it is undesirable to lay them as clean floors.

Advice! Despite the presence of water repellents in the material, in order to avoid deformation, such sheets should be protected from moisture. Therefore, they cannot be used as a clean floor in rooms with high humidity levels.

Installation technology

As mentioned above, it is generally easy to make fiberboard floors, but in order to achieve high results, you need to take into account all the features of working with this material. The work is carried out in several stages, and an important aspect in their implementation is correct preparation surface.

Preparation of the base for fiberboard

The following instructions will help you in carrying out the preparation:

Having purchased the material, you need to bring its humidity as close as possible to the humidity of the room. Otherwise, the sheets will warp during installation, and the dismantling of the base will be required. To prevent this from happening, you need to moisten warm water the reverse side of each sheet, after which the sheets should be turned with their backs to each other and left in this form for a day.

Advice! If the room is regularly heated, then there is no need to wet the sheets. It is enough just to put them on the edge, leaving them in this position for two days.

Fiberboard for the floor is laid on wooden base or on a sand-cement screed. The screed must be pre-treated with a primer mixture.

Advice! It is advisable to use bitumen dissolved in gasoline as a primer, in a ratio of 6: 1.

Before applying the primer to the base, it is imperative to clean it of dust and dirt.
A construction vacuum cleaner can be used to remove dust.
If the laying is carried out along the logs, then the base does not need to be leveled. In places of unevenness, you should only put it under the logs wooden blocks or pieces of plywood.

Laying on logs

If you decide to mount a fiberboard floor with your own hands along the logs, then you must first purchase wooden beams... It is they who will be used as lag. The advantage of this method is that between the lags you can lay thermal insulation mats.

Installation instructions:

According to the length of the base, we cut the beams of the required sizes.
We lay a waterproofing film on the base. It can be either a specialized waterproofer or an ordinary one. polyethylene film, 150-200 microns thick. We close the joints between the sheets with construction tape.
Laying the lag begins 30 cm from the wall, then the step between them is 60-80 cm.

Lags are reinforced on the base by means of anchors.
We put heat-insulating mats between the logs. Best for this mineral wool... The insulation should fit tightly between the logs. If joints occur, seal them with polyurethane foam.
Now let's move on to how to nail the fiberboard to the floor. In the case of lags, fixation is carried out by means of ordinary self-tapping screws. It is undesirable to use nails, since such a coating will loosen over time.

Advice! The boards should be laid in such a way that the distance from the walls is 5-10 mm.

We put it on the screed

Process

It is simpler than installation on logs, but only if it is made on a perfectly leveled base.

So let's start with alignment:

If significant irregularities are found on the base, then The best way align the floor screed - use beacons. Profiles for drywall are taken as beacons, which are cut according to the width of the room.
Lighthouses are laid parallel to each other for a small amount of mortar.
When the solution hardens a little and the beacons "grab" - you can start pouring the screed.

laying on a concrete floor screed is simpler than installation on joists, but only if it is done on a perfectly leveled base.

So let's start with alignment:

If significant irregularities are found on the base, then the best way to level the floor screed is to use beacons. Profiles for drywall are taken as beacons, which are cut according to the width of the room.
Lighthouses are laid parallel to each other for a small amount of mortar.
When the solution hardens a little and the beacons "grab" - you can start pouring the screed.

Concrete floor screed: a step-by-step guide to creating, and the nuances of the process "href =" , but only if it is produced on a perfectly leveled base.

So let's start with alignment:

If significant irregularities are found on the base, then the best way to level the floor screed is to use beacons. Profiles for drywall are taken as beacons, which are cut according to the width of the room.
Lighthouses are laid parallel to each other for a small amount of mortar.
When the solution hardens a little and the beacons "grab" - you can start pouring the screed.

We prepare the mastic according to the recommendations on the label.

We apply mastic.

There are two application options here, depending on the type of composition:

Cold mastic is applied to the entire surface of the screed (previously primed), while the thickness of the mastic is no more than 0.6 mm, and the layer of glue is no more than 0.3 mm. 30 minutes before starting work, it is necessary to grease the lower surface of the plates with glue.
Hot mastic should only be applied to the area where the slab will be laid. This is necessary so that the temperature of the mastic does not fall below 140 degrees. The layer should not exceed 1 mm in thickness, so the mastic must be leveled with rubber combs.

Press the slabs tightly to the base.

Fiberboard is made of wood fibers that are bonded to each other through heat and pressure. The attachment of fibers to each other is achieved through adhesion and own properties adhesion of wood. The fibers on the surface layer of the board are often coarser than on the middle layer. This gives the slab a smooth and compact surface. Adhesives and other additives can be used to improve the properties of the board. The main raw material for fiberboard is wood fiber, and the amount of additives is usually less than 1%.

The scope of application of fiberboard is very wide

Paraffin wax is commonly used as a water repellent glue. Starch, artificial resin and hardening oil are used as binders to increase strength.

The scope of its application is quite wide: from using as the back side of pieces of furniture, arches and to floors when performing repair work and in the decoration of new premises.

Fiberboard is an environmentally friendly material

Advantages and disadvantages of coating

The advantage is the flatness and smoothness of the sheet. Because of this, it is used for leveling the fiberboard floor in old buildings and in new construction. It can act as the base itself or be laid on the surface of a dilapidated and in need of replacement coating, hiding its irregularities and defects. This is also practical - there is no need to dismantle the old floor, which is used as the basis for a new one.

Fiberboard has its advantages and disadvantages

Great value has the ease and speed of installation work due to the convenience of processing and cutting, packing, low weight, which can be handled by even one specialist. And also the possession of a reasonable price for many buyers, durability, good sound insulation, high strength of the material. It perfectly withstands loads due to the dense structure of the pressed wood material, which allows it to withstand mechanical stress and place massive pieces of furniture on a seemingly fragile fiberboard floor. Coating with varnish or paint compounds with water-repellent properties, along with synthetic additives and antiseptics added to the composition, give the boards superior qualities in comparison with natural wood floors.

Fiberboard sheets are distinguished by their plasticity, due to which they retain their original properties in conditions of temperature extremes while maintaining moderate humidity.

It is worth noting the ecological composition of the fiberboard flooring material, as a result of which it can be laid in rooms where allergy sufferers live.

Fiberboard sheets are very flexible and durable

IMPORTANT!

The special composition of the material, high density and air permeability are the reasons why fiberboard does not change its shape, and therefore is able to effectively insulate buildings for more than 80 years.
In the unlikely event of a fire, the fibreboard surfaces slow down the rate at which the fire spreads through the structure — this is a class E flammability. This results in increased fire resistance for the entire building structure.

The disadvantages of fiberboard on the floor are as follows: a simple texture for most interiors, combustibility, fragility when bending the canvas, in the absence of proper processing, it is absolutely not moisture resistant (deforms, swells), the surface without a paint and varnish layer is erased in a short time, which immediately manifests itself when moving cabinets, sofas, tables, chairs and similar loads.

Fiberboard sheets can last 80 years with correct operation

How to wisely choose fiberboard for the floor

First of all, it is necessary to get an idea of the nature of future loads on the floor to be coated, damp or dry conditions and low, normal or high temperatures.

The standard size of one slab most commonly used for most floors is 1.7 mx 2.745 m with a thickness of 3 - 3.2 mm. They also produce moisture-resistant plates with oil impregnation thickness of 6 mm, which is advisable to lay on the floors of the first floor and in damp rooms.

It will not be difficult to select fiberboard sheets for specific purposes.

By brands, they are divided into M - soft sheets Fiberboard, T - hard, ST - superhard with an unpainted or painted front layer. Based on the purpose of the rooms, plates of a suitable brand are chosen.

Harder slabs (hardboard) are used as a substrate for laminate (laminated flooring), parquet or parquet board, linoleum and for better thermal and sound insulation of the floor. In addition to the device of floors, such fiberboard sheets are used for the installation of intra-apartment partitions, wall cladding, for cladding panel systems.

Give preference to trusted manufacturers

Particle board can be painted and laminated. All general products intended for interior painting wooden surfaces suitable for painting boards.

In the event that the floor is leveled with subsequent painting, it will be correct to choose special decorative sheets Fiberboard, which, like parquet, can be laid out in patterns.

When buying floor slabs, you should pay attention to the fact that all the selected canvases are even, have the same surface appearance, size and thickness. By purchasing this material, it is important to consider the characteristics of the bars. They should be conifers wood of the second or third quality grade, dry, treated with special fire-retardant compositions, without visible large knots, fungi and other similar defects. However, small cracks in the wood are acceptable. If mold and mildew are found, these areas are cleaned out and a fungicidal solution is applied on top of them to prevent deterioration of the new coating.

During transportation and storage, the boards must be protected from dryness and moisture, dirt, sunlight, contact with the ground, dents and scratches. Fiberboard is stored face side down on a flat base. If necessary, support timber is used at 0.5 meter intervals.

During transportation, make sure that the plates are not damaged.

Laying fiberboard on a wooden floor: installation features

With a floor structure that provides for a lag layout, it is required to level the surface cement-sand screed or pour a self-leveling mixture with a layer thickness of about 50 mm. On the prepared swept and washed base, it is poured construction sand of medium size and then a liquid solution is poured, evenly distributed over the surface.

After the preparation hardens with a step of the order of 20-40 cm, wooden logs are laid, hiding the slope, level difference and other defects. To make the logs lie in the same plane, chipboard linings are used. Then the fiberboard is laid.

Prepare the subfloor before laying the slabs

Before laying fiberboard on the sub-floor, preparatory work should be done. You must first bring the sheets into the room so that they stay there for two or three days. Or, if there is a shortage of time, you can process each plate with back side with a cotton swab or brush slightly moistened with water, fold the back sides and leave for one day. Then they carefully grind (in the presence of irregularities), clean, dry, dedust and apply a primer, which should dry for eight to twelve hours, on a wooden base.

How to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor? It is required to outline the starting point for laying the first slab, fixing it in several places. Usually, this is the corner by the window. Then it is recommended to check the coincidence of dimensions and edges by preliminary assembly dry. If necessary, the outer sheets are cut to fit the outline of the room and openings. It is important to take care to leave a gap of four to six millimeters from the wall surface for possible expansion of the floor covering as the temperature rises.

Before laying, the slabs need to be measured and cut.

When the base is prepared, the subfloor under the fiberboard is laid on the wooden floor made of plastic wrap.

Glue is applied to the entire surface of each sheet or bituminous mastic and shaded. We leave to soak for half an hour. It is also evenly distributed on the floor thin layer glue or mastic.

Fiberboard is laid as follows: the first layer of boards is laid on the base. If such a need arises, how to lay the fiberboard on the wooden floor of the second and third layers of slabs, their further laying is carried out. Then the resulting coating is fixed, for which there are three main types of fasteners:

staples furniture stapler width 12-14 mm;
nails with a closed head with a diameter of 1 to 1.5 mm and a length of 20 to 25 mm;
self-tapping screws with countersunk head with a diameter of about 3 mm and a length of 25 to 35 mm.

The gaps formed during the installation process are putty with special putties to deform the seams, after which dry it is worth sanding uneven areas with sandpaper or using grinder... Also remove any remaining glue that has come out between the sheets.

The gaps that form during work can be putty

Slab cutting process

Most often, the parameters of the slabs do not fully correspond to the room, which causes the need for cutting them. To do this, you can use the following cutting equipment:

a circular saw with a guiding laser, equipped with discs for sawing wood blades;
"Grinder" with preliminary drawing of precise markings;
a tool for cutting wood, roofing material, film, etc.;
electric jigsaw with a saw for wood;
scissors for metal.

There are several ways to cut the slab.

In order to neatly cut holes for engineering Communication, wall protrusions or niches for heating radiators, it is best to use a sharp knife, universal tool or jigsaw.

Cut off much more than required, parts of the sheets can be hidden under the skirting board, and the excess is unlikely to be cut off.

With a lack of experience, you can practice on an unnecessary piece and prepare templates from cardboard in advance, along which the markings will be transferred to the surface.

Retail, wholesale or supermarkets may offer slicing services facing materials, including fibreboard and chipboard, and an accurate room plan must be provided. Cutting with a machine allows you to get a better edge. And the adjustment of the grooves for the pipelines will have to be done independently.

Fiberboard floor can be made independently if you follow the recommendations

If the fibreboards are intact and dry, they can be reused in certain cases. Reuse is the most popular in terms of "recycling" of fibreboard.

Video: Stelim fiberboard on the floor

Video: Types of wood-based panels

V Lately has become quite often used fiberboard on the floor. This finishing method is practical and reliable and is perfect for surfaces with irregularities or imperfections.

Most often, installation is done on logs, but other methods can be used if desired. In this article, we will look at the procedure laying fiberboard do it yourself and analyze the features of this material.

Types of fiberboard

Choose optimal type fibreboard

The material may have different density... According to this indicator, the slabs are divided into the following types:

Soft fiberboard. Density does not exceed 350 kg. The product has a high porosity. Perfect for warming and insulating any surface. Differs in good sound and thermal conductivity.
Semi-solid. The density of such material is not less than 850 kg. It is mainly used for the production of furniture.
Solid. The density varies from 800 to 1000 kg. They have low porosity and are used for the manufacture of furniture and doors.
Superhard. The density indicator is not less than 950 kg. They are used for finishing various surfaces, as well as in the manufacture of furniture. Front part smooth and coated protective varnish or paint.

Fiberboard is produced in standard sizes. The length varies from 1220 to 3000 mm. Width from 1220 to 1700 mm. The thickness ranges from 2.5 to 40 mm. Dimensions depend on the type of product and its density.

Conditions for laying fiberboard

Old boards do not need to be removed

Laying fiberboard on a wooden floor has its own nuances. Removing old planks can be neglected especially in older houses. They will help provide strength and provide an additional source of heat, but over time they can become unusable, so individual areas will need to be replaced.

working machine with great vibration;
metal furniture legs;
heavy furniture, especially if pressure is exerted on the gaps between the joists.

It is extremely important to choose the right material and carry out the installation procedure. The quality of the floor, its strength and service life depend on these factors.

The horizontal covering is extremely important for the flooring procedure. So you need to prepare everything in advance. necessary tools, in particular the building level, which will help to correctly and accurately measure.

It is also extremely important to process the old substrate. For this you will need:

get rid of dust and dirt;
remove the skirting boards that prevent the installation of fiberboard;
fill up all the cracks to ensure a good level of tightness;
make a markup, which will be aligned in the future;
if you plan to make a cellar, for example, in a private or country house, it is better to start the work with its arrangement and only then proceed to the processing of the floor.

Please note that the installation of fiberboard should not be done too tightly, otherwise the edges of the material may be damaged. Also, the distance from the wall should be about 6 mm, this gap will be used for installing the skirting boards.

It is recommended to start processing from opposite wall To front door... If you have little experience in the construction craft, the first layer will need to be carefully checked building level to prevent possible inaccuracies and irregularities.

Advantages of fiberboard floor finishing

A floor lined with fiberboard is suitable for laying linoleum or parquet

Fiberboard is a fairly popular material. It is often used for repairing and finishing various surfaces.

The material gained its popularity due to its low price and good quality... Most often, fiberboard is used for:

leveling the floor;
laying under linoleum or parquet;
finishes of different surfaces.

The advantages of this material are:

to level the floor, you will need a bar that will act as a base;
low protection against moisture;
with strong mechanical stress or impact, a gap may form between the lags;
low fire resistance, which can become critical in case of fire;
additional protective treatment otherwise the coating will wear out quickly. See what happens to fiberboard in a humid room in this video:

Thus, fiberboard is a good solution for processing almost any surface under conditions of low humidity.

Choice of materials

The acquisition of building materials is an extremely important and responsible occupation. The wide variety of choices is often confusing.

There are certain tips for buying fiberboard:

If after leveling it is planned to paint the floor, it is better to buy decorative material... If desired, it can be laid out with patterns by analogy with a laminate.
If fibreboards will be installed under laminate or other covering, appearance will not be that important. Here you will need to pay more attention to the technical characteristics of the material. There is a certain scale of standards that will help to understand technical characteristics products. For more information about fiberboard and similar materials, see this video:

The main criteria indicating the quality of fiberboard are:

the same dimensions of the coating;
uniform thickness for all sheets;
uniform material surface.

The choice of timber for logs

Do not store the timber in a damp place.

When purchasing a timber for further processing, we recommend using the following tips:

The wood from which the timber is made must be dry.
We recommend that you refrain from early purchase and storage in a damp room, because the material may deteriorate.
It is necessary to purchase wood of the 2nd or 3rd class, treated with special antiseptics.
The cross-sectional index of the timber should vary from 40 to 70 mm.
Few cracks are acceptable.
There should be no fungus or other bacteria.

Fiberboard cutting procedure

When processing with sheets, it must be borne in mind that cutting of the material may be necessary. Some stores provide this service, but you need to tell them exact dimensions rooms where work will be carried out. For more information on how to cut material, see this video:

Keep in mind that it is better to make the material shorter, and use the empty space for mounting the skirting board, than to leave a surplus, which is very difficult to get rid of.

Cutting with a machine will provide more high quality work. If this is not possible, you can use the following tools:

Pruning is often used to create recesses for pipes, plumbing and heating systems, wall niches. The holes can be made with a jigsaw or a sharp construction knife. We recommend that you first make a template on cardboard and only then mark the sheet.

The procedure for laying lag and fiberboard on the floor

Before installation, treat the logs with an antiseptic

Please note that materials should not be stored in a damp place. It is better to place the timber horizontally, and the fiberboard vertically along the wall. In this case, it is desirable that the room temperature is at room temperature.

The lag is laid on a previously prepared surface. Preparation is carried out using cement screed... The method of installing fiberboard is suitable for both leveling the surface and for completely replacing it.

If this is your first time creating a fiberboard floor, we recommend watching the tutorial video. Many for the installation of lags attract professionals, and the installation of the plates is done independently. The first step is to carefully examine the surface for the presence of mold or mildew and, if found, get rid of it. For more information on leveling the floor, see this video:

Then you will need to treat areas of the floor with a primer and antiseptic to prevent the possible growth of bacteria.

Fiberboard sheets should touch on the joists

The procedure for installing fiberboard on logs is as follows:

sheets of material must be laid so that the seams touch directly on the bars;
fastening takes place with screws or nails. The spacing is about 100 mm at the edges and about 135 mm in the center;
the next sheet should not be installed back to back. The space between the rows can vary from 2 to 3 mm;
installation in parallel is done in a similar way.

Installation with glue has the following nuances:

The glue must be applied to the entire plane of the structure and at the same time try to distribute the substance without smudges.
It is necessary to allow time for the solution to dry. It will take about 30 minutes.
The glue is applied over the primer.
After that, the material is pressed and its location is checked.

Finally, you will need to remove all adhesive residues. The space between the sheets can be treated with putty or reinforcing tape can be used. Then, on top of the fiberboard, the floor can be varnished or painted to provide additional protection.