While creating various devices It is very useful to have springs on hand. The question naturally arises: how many, what type and size may you need next time and how to make a spring with your own hands?
However, sometimes a situation arises when it is difficult to find a spring that ideally suits your requirements. So why not make your own?
Making springs may seem intimidating, but using... basic tool and with simple instructions, each of you can create it.
In this article I will show you how to make some of them, the simple ones first and then I will move on to some "advanced" tools, but this will not add any complexity to the creation process.
Step 1: Types
Here are a few of the many types of springs we will learn to make. From left to right:
- Tension
- Compressive
- Conical
- Torsion bar
Step 2: Let's get started with basic tools
You can start creating many different types using the tools indicated in the list:
- pin diameter 1.4 cm
- piano string or wire
- pliers with wire cutters
- clamps
- cordless drill
Step 3: Cut the pin
First, take a wooden dowel and cut it to a length of about 12 cm. Then cut a groove in one of its ends for the string. A pin with a diameter of approximately 1.4 cm is best because it fits well into the drill chuck.
Step 4: Create a Tension Spring
The good thing about cordless drills is that you can adjust their rotation speed. To be safe, always use pliers - if the wire comes off, it could cut your hands.
Secure the drill to the table using clamps. One hand rests on the power button of the drill, and the other holds the pliers. Turn the drill as much as you need until you achieve required quantity turns. While winding, keep the cord under tension and the spring will turn better.
Step 5: Bending the String
After winding, I bent the remaining ends with pliers and got a tension spring. By experimenting, you can achieve different loop sizes.
Step 6: Squeezing
It will require a longer pin, in which a groove will also be cut. When winding, measure the distance between the turns by eye. This will take some practice on your part, but it's actually a lot of fun.
Once the spring was ready, I did a test (see last photo). I placed it on the pin, pressed it on top with a small wooden block and quickly let go - the block shot up to the ceiling.
Step 7: Tapered
The conical shape is made using a drill and a belt sander.
Using the same winding technique, I placed the string into a groove on the pin. Once the spring was completely wound, I trimmed the ends and the conical spring was ready. I made it twice, and the second version came out better.
Step 8: Torsion Bar
To make a torsion bar, I used a brass rod, since the wooden pin could not withstand the load and broke. To create a spring, make several turns and leave a straight section of string at both ends. By bending the ends of the string you will create a good torsion spring.
Step 9: Conclusion
In the photos you can see a compression spring and a set of different springs that I made at home.
I hope making it turns out for you a simple task and will help you do a lot interesting projects. If you use them regularly, it will also save you money.
Hi all brainiacs! It’s good if the springs you need for your projects can be purchased at the store, but even then, how many of them should you have in stock, and what size and type? In addition, store-bought springs are sometimes suitable, and sometimes it is very difficult to find the right one, so it would be nice to learn how to make them with your own hands and this article will help with this!
Making springs, although it seems somewhat scary, but with the basic tools at hand and simple knowledge, anyone can do-it-yourselfer can do them. In this tutorial I will tell you how to make some springs, first the easy way, and then using a more diverse tool, but it’s also not difficult.
Step 1: Spring Types
The photo shows several types of springs, which I will show you how to make.
On the left is an extension spring, then a compression spring, a conical spring and a torsion spring.
Step 2: Basic Method
In the first and most in a simple way creation brainsprings The tools and materials shown in the photo are used. Using them you can safely make a wide variety of springs, and these are:
- wooden stick with a diameter of 1.2 cm
- piano string
- pliers with an “option” for biting off wire
- hacksaw
- clamp
- screwdriver
Step 3: Preparing the Wooden Stick
From wooden stick we cut off a piece about 13cm long, and at one of the ends we make a slot into which the string will be inserted. A stick with a diameter of 1.2 cm is good for this, as it fits perfectly into the screwdriver chuck. Smaller stick brain diameter If it doesn't fit, she won't be able to hold a piano string.
Step 4: Making an Extension Spring
For our purposes, a screwdriver is better suited than a drill, because you can control the rotation speed. To be safe, always use pliers as the string may spring back and injure you!
First, we attach the screwdriver to the workbench with a clamp, then control the screwdriver power button with one hand, and hold it with the other pliers, wind the coils of the spring as much as you need. While feeding the string, we pull it tightly, so the spring will be of better quality.
Step 5: Bend the Ends
Having wound the spring, we bend its ends using pliers and get a finished extension spring. By experimenting in this way, you can obtain springs of various sizes.
Step 6: Compression Spring
To create a spring of this type, you will need a longer stick, but also with a slot at the end. When winding it, you need to keep a certain distance between the turns, which is controlled “by eye”; you may have to practice a little to get a high-quality spring, but brain activity it's quite interesting.
Having made such a spring, I tested it - I put it on a wooden rod, and placed a small block on top. When I pressed it and released it, the block flew to the ceiling like a bullet.
Step 7: Conical Spring
A conical stick can be made using a screwdriver and a grinder.
Using the same brain technology, the string is threaded into the slot of a cone-shaped stick, and then winding occurs. After the spring is wound, its ends are cut off, and that’s it, the conical spring is ready.
To get a high-quality spring cone, I wound two of these, and the second one turned out better.
Step 8: Torsion Spring
To create this spring I was forced to use a slotted brass rod because the wooden one wouldn't hold up.
To make a torsion spring, just wind several coils at the distance you need between them. After this, slightly bending the ends you will get a finished torsion spring.
Step 9: Finally
The photo shows a compression spring I made using a brass rod, and several others in different sizes.
I think this brain technology making springs is not difficult, and I hope you will find it useful in your homemade products. Plus, it will help you save money if you need a lot of springs.
Thank you for your attention and good luck in brain creativity!
Most often, the question of how to make a spring yourself, using improvised means, does not arise. However, there are situations when a spring of the required diameter is not at hand. It is in such cases that the need arises to make this element with your own hands.
Of course, springs for critical mechanisms operating under intensive conditions are best manufactured in production conditions, where it is possible not only to select correctly, but also to comply with all parameters technological process. If you need a non-standard spring for use in a mechanism that will be operated in a gentle mode, then you can make it at home.
What you need
To make a spring with your own hands, prepare the following Consumables and equipment:
- steel wire, the diameter of which should correspond to the cross-sectional size of the turns of your future spring product;
- regular gas burner;
- a tool that every locksmith workshop must have;
- bench vice;
- a stove, which can also be used as a heating device for household purposes.
The wire, if its diameter does not exceed 2 mm, does not need to be subjected to preliminary heat treatment, since it is easy to bend without it. Before winding such wire onto a mandrel of the required diameter, it must be unbent and carefully aligned along the entire length of the winding.
When choosing the diameter of the mandrel, you should take into account the size of the spring that you are going to make at home. To compensate for the elastic deformation of the wire, the diameter of the mandrel is chosen slightly smaller than the required size of the internal cross-section of the future product.
If the diameter of the wire from which you are going to make a spring with your own hands is more than 2 mm, it must first be annealed, since without such a procedure it will be difficult to align it and wind it onto the mandrel.
Step-by-step instruction
Step 1The first thing you need to do if you are going to make a spring with your own hands is to select the material for such a product. Optimal material V in this case is another spring (the main thing is that the diameter of the wire from which it is made matches cross section coils of the spring you need to make).
Annealing the wire for the spring, as mentioned above, will allow you to make it more flexible, and you can easily align it and wind it onto the mandrel. To perform this procedure, it is best to use a special stove, but if you do not have one at your disposal, then you can use any other device that heats wood.
In such a stove you need to light birch wood and, when it burns down to coals, put a spring in it, the wire from which you are going to use. After the spring is red-hot, the coals must be moved to the side and the heated product allowed to cool along with the stove. After cooling, the wire will become much more flexible, and you can easily work with it at home.
Step 3
Became soft wire should be carefully aligned and begin to wind onto a mandrel of the required diameter. When performing this procedure, it is important to ensure that the turns are located close to each other. If you have never winded springs before, you can first watch a training video, which is easy to find on the Internet.
Step 4
In order for your new spring to have the required elasticity, it must be hardened. Such heat treatment, like hardening, will make the material harder and more durable. To perform hardening, the finished spring must be heated to a temperature of 830–870°, for which you can use a gas burner. You can determine that the required hardening temperature has been reached by the color of the hot spring: it should turn light red. To accurately determine this color, also rely on the video. After heating to the required temperature, the spring must be cooled in transformer or spindle oil.
Hello to DIYers, as well as summer residents and gardeners!
Now is the time spring pruning garden trees and bushes. In this case, of course, it is impossible to do without garden pruners. But, as you know, pruning shears (like many other tools) require periodic disassembly for sharpening, lubrication, etc.
So this spring I decided to disassemble my pruning shears in order to sharpen, lubricate and adjust it, since over the previous few years of work it had become dull and a little loose.
I must say that my pruning shears are German, very good quality. I bought it 7-8 years ago, and since then it has served me well. Moreover, I disassembled it only once during this time, to sharpen it and lubricate it with thick lubricant.
However, as far as I remember, even then, when first disassembling the pruning shears, I encountered the problem of unscrewing and tightening the screw on its working axis.
The fact is that usually the axle on pruning shears is made in the form of a rod or bolt with a thread at the end, onto which a nut is in turn screwed. A pruner with this design is very convenient to disassemble and adjust, since to do this you just need to unscrew or tighten the nut using a regular open-end wrench.
However, on my German pruning shears, the axle is made in the form of a hollow bushing with an M5 screw screwed into it, which, in fact, secures the axle and the entire assembly assembly. At the same time, on the head of the screw for unscrewing it, slots are made (as on a regular screw) for a Phillips screwdriver.
However, the splines in this design are very unreliable. And to be honest, I don’t understand why the German designers didn’t make the screw with a hex head in this case. It would be much more practical and reliable.
As a result, when I began to disassemble my pruning shears for the second time and tried to unscrew the screw with a Phillips screwdriver, the slots began to deform and break off.
As a result, I had to use pliers to unscrew the screw.
Naturally, after I disassembled the pruning shears in this way, I was faced with the problem of repairing or modifying the screw head so that in the future I could use the pruning shears normally.
And then I decided to take the simple route and simply grind the screw head on both sides so that it could be unscrewed and tightened with a regular wrench.
For this I needed: an electric sharpener, pliers, and wrench by 7 mm.
To make it more convenient to hold the screw during processing, I screwed it back into the sleeve, like into a kind of mandrel.
And then, holding this sleeve in pliers, I ground the screw head on both sides on a sharpening wheel.
And this is what I got!
As you can see, the screw head now fits perfectly with a 7mm wrench.
After that, all I had to do was thoroughly wipe all the parts of the pruner, clean it of old grease and sharpen its cutting parts.
I will not describe sharpening pruners here, since there are many videos about this on YouTube, and anyone who needs it can find it and watch it in detail there.
Then I assembled the pruning shears, having previously lubricated its axle and rubbing surfaces.
At the same time, under the head of the screw, I additionally placed a washer from an M5 bolt for reliability.
After assembly, all I had to do was tighten the screw head with a wrench.