To remove thick branches, prepare delimber with powerful handles working like a lever. And finally, it will not be superfluous garden saw for cutting thick old shoots that cannot be removed otherwise.
A good pruner should make an even and clean cut without crushing the stem.
Cut shoots obliquely(at an angle of 45º) to the outer kidney, stepping back from it upwards by 0.5 cm. It is wrong to make a cut towards the kidney, in this case water will roll down to it and it will eventually rot. The cut is made exactly on the external kidney to form the correct vase-shaped bush. In this case, new rose branches will grow along the outer contour, and not inward, which is highly undesirable. It is not recommended to cut across the trunk, leave stumps - they will then dry out and become a gateway for diseases.
Sections that are larger than the thumbnail should be covered with a special paste (for example, Rannet) or garden pitch. This will protect the plant from infection, and will also prevent the loss of juices and the drying of the branches of the rose.
To protect your hands from scratches and cuts, pruning should be done in tight, preferably leather or suede gloves , in extreme cases, made of thick tarpaulin, with high, up to the elbow, cuffs such as cuffs.
2. Types of pruning roses
In the first lesson, we already wrote about the types of pruning, but let's list them again, applying this knowledge specifically to roses. By goals, they distinguish: sanitary, rejuvenating, shaping, stimulating and seasonal pruning.Sanitary
Sanitary pruning comes down to removal in the spring of poorly overwintered shoots- blackened, brownish, ringed brown spots the so-called infectious burn. They must be removed without regret and as soon as possible, immediately after you release the roses from the winter shelter. Experience has shown that attempts to save such shoots do not lead to anything good - they eventually dry out, but remain a source of the spread of diseases. Therefore, they must be disposed of without regret. Cut to healthy wood, but in stages, in parts (so as not to cut off the excess)! Removed shoots must be collected and burned.
Anti-aging
Radical anti-aging pruning essential for prolonging the life of a rose. The biological cycle of this plant involves the mandatory removal of old shoots in order for new ones to grow in their place. The rose has an amazing regenerative ability that allows it to prolong its life. With proper agricultural technology and competent pruning, it can grow in one place for more than 20 years! Therefore, annually in the spring, remove old, lignified three-year-old branches. Aged shoots are easy to distinguish from younger ones: they, as a rule, have lost green color, have a somewhat "dried" appearance. Old wood conducts nutrients from the root worse, such branches bloom poorly.If we do not resort to radical pruning of the rose, then we will doom it to slow aging and dying. The cause of death is often the lack of anti-aging pruning. Removing old shoots on the ring gives impetus to the growth of new young and strong shoots. In addition, with each such shoot, a new root grows.
If roses show fading of growth, weak flowering, this means that in the spring it is necessary to update the bush, return it to an active life. To do this, subject it to radical pruning - leave only 2-3 of the strongest shoots, remove the rest to the ring. This will cause the rapid growth of new shoots, of which 3-4 of the most powerful should be left in summer or closer to autumn - they form the future skeleton of a rejuvenated bush. At the same time, in the spring, it is necessary to give the rose enhanced feeding, introduce rotted manure into the root zone and mineral complex with microfertilizers. To stimulate the growth of new roots, be sure to spill the soil with a solution of "Heteroauxin" (100 mg / 10 l of water) or "Kornevin" (1 sachet per 5 l of water). And supplement this procedure with two full-fledged dressings in the summer.
It is necessary to cut old shoots into a ring, leaving no stumps. Stumps on the neck of a grafted rose will prevent the awakening of new buds and the growth of young shoots. Rooted roses should be cut at ground level.
Formative
After carrying out sanitary and rejuvenating pruning, the frame of the bush will begin to emerge from the remaining branches. Thereafter you can begin to form the main skeleton of the rose, achieving a vase-like shape, open to the sun. Remove weak overgrown twigs from the bottom of the bush that will never bloom. Also, the plant does not need rubbing and competing shoots - of the two, leave the one that is stronger. The same technique is used when only one of the three branches grown from one kidney should be left. To lighten the bush, cut out part of the second-order shoots that look inward. In this case, all the shoots of the rose will be evenly lit by the sun, and the bush will turn out to be harmonious. With formative pruning, blind shoots without buds are also removed. If this happens, it means that the rose is either not getting enough sunlight or is overfed. At proper care every shoot is bound to give buds and flourish!stimulating
Stimulus pruning exists in order to make the rose put out new shoots. The weaker the shoot, the stronger it should be cut. And vice versa - the stronger the shoot, the less it needs to be shortened.
3. Timing of pruning roses
spring
spring pruning roses considered the main. At this time, a basic set of activities is carried out. After you have freed the roses from winter shelter, you need to spend sanitary pruning. Next, remove the old three-year-old shoots and only after that proceed with the forming pruning. It is better to carry it out before the leaves have blossomed, but the buds have already swelled - in this case, the strongest ones are visible at the ends of the shoots. It is on them that the branches should be shortened. After trimming the ends, they begin to remove the shoots that thicken the bush. Get rid of thin unproductive twigs with a thickness less than the diameter of the pencil. Strive to create a vase-shaped bush open to the sun.
Summer
Summer pruning basically comes down to removing faded flowers to the first "real" cinquefoil leaf. This pruning regulates flowering, causing the rose to produce new flowering shoots. Cut to the outer bud - this will maintain the "open" shape of the bush. Otherwise, it will branch inward. Also remove blind shoots without buds, but they are not cut out entirely, but 2–3 well-developed cinquefoils are left on each. Do not confuse blind shoots with basal ones (from English word base - base, foundation), growing from the neck with replacement shoots. They appear as a result of measures to rejuvenate the bush and are extremely valuable for the later life of the rose. They must be protected!
Also in summer carry out light corrective pruning, removing dried stumps, branches unsuccessfully growing inside the bush, unproductive shoots below. At this time, you have a chance to correct the mistakes made during the spring pruning. Summer pruning is carried out until the end of August, and then only fading petals are cut off, giving the rose the opportunity to set seeds. This will serve as a signal to her that it is time to prepare for winter and stop growing.
autumn
autumn pruning is carried out before laying roses in a winter shelter. As for the group of hybrid tea roses and floribunda, their shoots along existing rules should be shortened: half for hybrid tea and 1/3 for floribunda. Of course, this approach attracts with its lightness, there is no need to think too much - I cut off half of the bush and that's it. And it is easy to cover, you can not bend the shoots, etc. But according to my observations, radical method extremely harmful to powerful hybrid tea roses, and floribundas too. There is an imbalance between the developed root system and the defective truncated ground part, which is unable to nourish the roots on the eve of winter, which negatively affects winter hardiness.And here they are also advised to remove the leaves, because of their possible decay under cover. But remember that the rose evergreen! Rotting leaves are a lesser evil compared to the threat of losing the bush. Removing the leaves weakens the plant, in the spring it takes a long time to recover(even if it successfully overwintered). Most hybrid tea roses die, apparently, only because of the barbaric autumn pruning. That's why better in autumn carry out gentle pruning, do not deprive the rose of the vegetative mass, which during this period nourishes the roots, sending them the nutrients necessary for a successful wintering. It is better to leave everything until spring, when it will already be clear that it has not overwintered. Then cut.
It is preferable to plant varieties with flexible shoots that are easy to hide in a shelter. And let nature itself decide which of them will continue the life marathon. Therefore, for all roses without exception, at this time, only unfaded buds, non-lignified tops, which will inevitably be damaged by frost, should be removed at this time, as well as juicy strong red (very sorry, but there's nothing to be done!) fatty shoots that the rose, having hesitated, released too late and they obviously won't survive.
4. Pruning by groups of roses
Distinguish according to degree short(strong) middle(moderate) and long(weak) pruning. The degree of pruning depends on the group to which this or that rose belongs. In particular, scrubs, semi-climbers, ground cover roses do not need strong pruning. In the spring, you can only shorten them slightly and carry out sanitary pruning. The same sanitary pruning is done for ramblers, in which the tops of the shoots often freeze.
Pruning hybrid tea and floribunda roses
If these roses were pruned back in the fall, sanitary and rejuvenating pruning awaits them in the spring. Of course, the rejuvenating procedure will stimulate the growth of new shoots, so it is best to do it in the spring, leaving no more than 5-6 trunks and 40 cm above the ground. After the first flowering in summer, the shoots of hybrid tea roses are shortened by 20 cm.It must be remembered that flower stalks hybrid tea roses grow from both old and new wood. Therefore, the old shoots of the past two years bloom first (we remove the three-year-old ones in the spring), then the newly grown ones begin to bloom, which ensures the continuous decorativeness of these roses.
The same can be observed in floribunda. Stimulation of new shoots occurs both when the old three-year-olds are completely removed by the ring, and when the remaining ones are shortened by 1/3 of the length. On old shoots, flowering occurs earlier, and only then does it begin on newly grown ones. With a balanced number of last year's and new shoots, almost continuous flowering can be achieved. After its first wave, cut the faded shoots, leaving 25–30 cm, and shorten the branches of the second order by 2–3 buds.
Pruning climbing roses
Faded branches of once flowering ramblers are advised to cut into a ring immediately after flowering so that new shoots have time to grow, which will bloom on next year. This is justified with a long autumn and warm summers, which are not so common in the Middle Lane. Rather, it is a recipe for southern regions our country. In the Moscow region, it is better to do this only before laying in a shelter, allowing the rose to gain strength for the winter due to the leaves of old shoots. And on good nutrition new lashes grow without additional stimulation. For grafted roses, ramblers leave from 3 to 6 shoots; for own-rooted roses, 20 shoots are allowed. After flowering, you can shorten the crown of new shoots by 5-7 cm to stimulate the growth of side branches.Pruning large-flowered climbers and scrubs
These semi-climbing roses tend to bloom repeatedly, so their main pruning period is spring, when sanitary measures are carried out. In the same period, the lashes are shortened to the first strong kidney. Remove up to 1/3 of the stem length from this group of roses after flowering in the summer to allow branching and a new wave of flowering. Important! Cut old shoots in autumn, leaving 30 cm above the ground (not on the ring!), Leave 2-3 buds at the side branches.Contrary to the recommendations encountered, do not try to form a bush rose from a climber or a high shrub with strong pruning - by doing so, you will cause great damage to it. It will take her a long time to recover from this barbaric procedure, spending time and energy on growing new shoots, which, in best case bloom in the second half of summer.
Pruning scrubs - both old garden roses and modern varieties– comes down to fairly light corrective pruning. In once-flowering, it is carried out in the summer after flowering, for remontants - in the spring. The stems of high scrubs at this time are shortened by 1/3, and for those below 1.2 m - by 1/2. In the summer, after flowering, flower stalks are cut off. Starting from the third year, gradually remove 1-2 old shoots annually. In single-blooming, this can be done in summer, and not only in spring, as in other groups.
At ground cover roses, many of which also belong to the scrub group, excessive thickening should be corrected to which they are inclined. In the spring, cut out old shoots and make curly haircut garden shears for cutting hedge, giving the bush the desired shape, for example, a ball.
Ground cover roses need to regulate the thickening of the bushes
5. General rule for all grafted roses
Very important remove root shoots from dog rose rootstock(Rosa canina). Her appearance is extremely depressing scion. If the growth is not fought, growth will begin to fade, and the rose will eventually die. The root shoot has rosehip leaves, which differ in color from the cultivated graft, and seven leaves - it is not difficult to identify it by these signs. Coppice shoots cannot be cut at ground level - instead of one, two new ones will grow. It is necessary to dig up the ground and remove the shoot directly from the neck, sprinkling the cut with ash.There is nothing incomprehensible about pruning roses. The main thing is to rejuvenate them in a timely manner, stimulate the growth of new basal shoots and branching, carry out gentle summer and autumn pruning, and also remove root shoots.
Everyone knows the expressions: "Fresh like a rose" and "Tender like a rose." The noble flower has long been considered the standard of beauty and charm. The most beautiful female representatives are compared with him. Gardeners express different opinions about the complexity of caring for this garden plant. One cannot but agree that the rose bush requires certain maintenance efforts from its owner. A plant left to the mercy of fate is unlikely to please with lush flowering and young shoots.
Pruning roses for the winter is a necessary procedure for their successful wintering and further growth and bud formation. Moreover, it, although in different volumes, is required by both park and garden roses. Beginning gardeners need to figure out what pruning is for and how to do it correctly.
Roses grow well in warm climates. They prefer heat to frost, so for the winter the plants are carefully covered and protected from the cold.
Overgrown bushes with many shoots are difficult to carefully hide under the film. In addition, their branches are intertwined, interfering with air exchange. This threatens them with decay and the subsequent appearance of diseases.
Plants look much more attractive after trimming. Of course, you need to follow the rules for pruning branches and find out in advance what kind of rose will need it. For some varieties, a stronger shortening of the shoots is desirable, for others, a simple pinching is sufficient.
Pruning roses for the winter - is it necessary to do this?
Gardeners argue about the need to prune roses before the onset of cold weather. Many people think that it is better to prune in the spring, when the plant can immediately produce fresh shoots. And yet, the risk of decay of non-lignified shoots is too great to leave them for the winter.
Moreover, weak shoots and unopened buds will still die before spring, and it makes no sense to save them.
How to prune roses for the winter in order to strengthen the bush and make it grow actively with the arrival of heat?
Principal pruning principles
People who have planted flowers and trees on the site probably already have the tools to care for them. Proper preparation for the procedure for pruning plants in the autumn season will help manuals, magazines and gardening tips presented on the Internet. On television, programs are often shown dedicated to work on the plot.
You can buy a set of rose cutting tools at a hardware store in the gardening section. Often they are sold in greenhouses along with rose seedlings. There you will be able to consult with experts and choose the most suitable tools.
Typically, rose care requires:
- garden knife;
- scissors;
- garden hacksaw;
- secateurs;
- brush cutter
All tools must be sharpened to effortlessly trim rose bushes. The first two are intended for processing young and thin shoots, and the last ones are cut off lignified branches.
The secateurs will cope with branches with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm. The brush cutter is a secateurs big size. They can shorten the thickest shoots due to the long handles. They must be held with both hands.
The main convenience of the brush cutter when caring for roses is the ability to avoid pricks of thorns. The blades of the tool will reach the most distant branches, and at the same time it will be possible to keep the hands at some distance from the bush.
Everything garden tools usually have brightly colored non-slip handles. So they are easier to find in the green grass and use them.
Preparation for the procedure
At the end of September, rose bushes are watered less often so that the growth of young shoots slows down. It is also important to stop active flowering. This is achieved by pinching out new buds. Before the winter cold, plants will need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in order to accumulate more in the branches. nutrients.
Before pruning the bushes, all tools that are planned to be used should be disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. In this way, it will be possible to avoid infection of plants with microbes.
After carefully examining the branches and evaluating the size of the rhizome, you need to try to calculate the scale of the reduction in the volume of the bush. If the top and bottom are approximately equal, the rose will more easily endure the winter and meet the warm season full of strength.
Slicing Rules
Before starting work, it is worth studying the instructions several times to understand how to properly prune roses for the winter. For example, the cut must be made at an angle so that moisture does not accumulate in it. The place where the shoot is cut immediately after the procedure should be treated with Rannet or a special varnish-balm.
The gardener must take into account that the new shoot will go in the direction where the bud looks, over which the branch is decapitated. True, this is of greater importance during spring pruning, when a bush is formed.
Cut roses should be at the onset of cold weather, at least to -2 degrees. Otherwise, the plant will give new buds that will rot over the winter. As a rule, in middle lane gardeners carry out the procedure in late October - early November.
IN Lately in the middle lane, the positive temperature persists until the end of December, so summer residents should adhere to the thermometer readings, and not the dates indicated in the manuals.
Types of pruning roses
Each variety of roses requires special pruning, and some do not need it at all. The latter include park and climbing roses. Plants that bloom once a year and give a single shoot are only pinched without pruning.
The traditional way
Traditional pruning of bushes is called rather obligatory procedures for caring for roses. This method is suitable for beginners who have recently begun to learn how to prune roses for the winter.
First of all, diseased, dry branches and root shoots are removed. Thin young shoots are also pruned, as they did not have time to get stronger and will only in vain take away strength from the bush during wintering. In the spring, they are unlikely to continue to grow.
After traditional pruning, the size of the bush decreases, but individual branches may continue to stand out from the total mass. Light, moderate (medium) or heavy pruning will allow you to bring the plant into an acceptable form for the winter season.
Easy pruning
With this method, the branches are shortened by about a third. It is not suitable for use for several years in a row, as the bush must be rejuvenated, otherwise it will bloom worse. It is also better not to apply light pruning to rapidly growing varieties of roses.
moderate pruning
Shrub roses will safely endure wintering after moderate pruning. It is also called the middle one, since the strengthened shoots are cut in half. Young shoots are shortened more strongly, leaving up to 3-4 buds to a lignified branch.
Strong pruning
Strong pruning is used for young seedlings so that they do not weaken during the cold weather, and old bushes that require rejuvenation. With this method, strong branches up to 15 cm long are left on the bush. In the spring, the bush will give good shoots and large buds.
Strong pruning is never used for park and ground cover roses.
Trimming climbing and ground cover bushes
At climbing roses remove dead branches. It is better not to leave very short shoots, 1-2 cm long, for the winter. They did not have time to mature and will die off in winter.
Roses for the winter must be securely insulated. Most varieties do not tolerate cold well and may die in winter. in the best way to save plants is to install a special frame around the bush, which is covered with spruce branches.
It will reliably cover the roses, while allowing air to circulate, which will eliminate the formation of condensation on the branches.
A popular protection option for bushes among summer residents is a film or burlap. Their disadvantage is that they do not allow air to pass through, and sawdust that can absorb excess moisture will have to be poured into the structure. In the absence of sawdust, the branches will rot, and a fungus will form on them. It is difficult to get rid of it, and for roses it is fatal.
All cut branches and dried petals of blooming roses must be removed from under the bush and burned. Leaving them on the ground, you can provoke the development of pathogenic microbes that will spread to a growing bush.
According to the rules of care, before sheltering roses for the winter, they should be sprayed with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. It destroys the microorganisms remaining on the branches.
It is important to let the plant dry after treatment, you can not cover it with damp. In spring, roses are sprayed with a solution blue vitriol, which is effective at positive temperatures.
Since the ground under the bush does not freeze thanks to the shelter, mice or rats often start in the sawdust. They feed on rose roots and, like moles, pose a serious threat. garden plants. They are scared away with pieces of burnt wool or swabs soaked in Vishnevsky's ointment, placed inside a frame with a film or spruce branches.
Conclusion
Pruning bushes is only a small part of taking care of your suburban area or garden. Roses require top dressing, timely watering and protection from pests. No wonder they say that a gardener can really relax only in winter. And yet, his work pays off when looking at blooming roses with a unique enchanting aroma.
"Queen of Flowers" delights others. She is beautiful, although sometimes she releases her needles. The variety of shades and types of roses is the merit of the selectors, and the care of the seedlings falls on the shoulders of summer residents. Both the health and beauty of the flower depend on their care and love.
Questions about pruning roses are asked all the time. First of all, they ask how to prune roses for the winter, before shelter. Less concerned about the problem of spring pruning. Everything is clear there: what is frozen, then cut it off. And very rarely remember the summer pruning. Often they just don't know about it. Why cut roses in summer and how to do it right?
1. Removing faded flowers. This procedure is necessary not only for roses, but also for other flowering plants. The main task of any plant is to set seeds. This is the instinct of reproduction, to which all living things obey. After the flower has withered, seeds are tied in its place. A lot of nutrients are spent on their maturation. There is simply no strength left to form new buds. And why bloom again, because the plant has completed the main task: there are already seeds!
Watch your roses. After flowering, they, like the wild rose, have fruits. And if you “deceive” the roses and remove their seeds, then the plants immediately correct the “mistake”. There are no seeds, so you need to produce them again. Therefore, roses after pruning hastily form buds.
Some gardeners do not even suspect that their roses can bloom many times over the summer. After the first flowering (with insufficient care), the rose gains strength for a long time and fills the buds only before frost. And this only weakens it before wintering.
Let's clarify right away that there are varieties of roses with a single flowering (for example, some climbing roses, in which the buds are laid on last year's shoots). No amount of pruning will help them bloom again. But most varieties are re-flowering. Among them are our favorites - hybrid tea roses and floribunda. They can give two, three waves of flowering. Note that it is summer flowering.
So, immediately the field of wilting flower must be cut. And you have to do it right. Many cut only the flower itself, trying to completely preserve the stem (photo 2). It is believed that more buds are formed on a long stem. But this plant will spend more time and effort. Repeated flowering will have to wait longer, and the flowers will turn out smaller.
With low pruning, the rose quickly “shoots” two or three powerful shoots, on which large buds develop (photo 3).
Sometimes new shoots appear on the stem even during flowering. And then the hand does not rise to cut them - it's a pity. But remember, the rose will spend much more time on the formation of six or seven buds. Next time it will bloom just before frost. There will be no time left to prepare for winter. So don't feel sorry for the rose. When pruning in summer, cut off the stem along with the flower, leaving only 3-5 lower buds on it (depending on the strength of the bush).
When pruning climbing roses that bloom once, only wilted flowers can be pruned without affecting the shoots. It is also necessary to cut off all the fruit that has set so that the plant does not waste energy on them (photo 4). Climbing roses bloom very profusely, and many fruits are produced. Will have to make an effort. Your work will not be in vain. The plant will switch its forces to preparing new shoots for winter.
2. Rejuvenation. Perennial rose bushes require anti-aging pruning. This is especially true for the so-called spray roses. There is an opinion that such pruning should be carried out in the fall. However, in our climate, autumn is often damp. Open cuts are a "gateway" for infections that spread very quickly in a humid environment. In summer, the cuts immediately dry up. Less chance of getting sick. But even in summer, all cuts need to be covered with garden pitch.
Anti-aging pruning is best started immediately after flowering in dry weather. Remove the thickest lower branches with dark bark. Pruning is carried out either flush with the soil, or on a strong lateral shoot. 
3. Awakening. The following picture is often observed: good care the rose seems to fall asleep and does not bloom. There are no visible signs of disease, and the cause is not clear. Experienced gardeners these roses are said to have "blind shoots". Take a closer look, a normal rose shoot ends with either a bud or a young growth (photo 5). And the “blind” shoot is an underdeveloped kidney (photo 6) or a dark scar instead of it (photo 7).
The reasons for this phenomenon are ambiguous. In spring this may be due to late frosts, and in summer - with fungal diseases or metabolic disorders.
To wake up the "blind" shoots, you need to cut off the defective bud, capturing the neighboring leaf. After this procedure, the rose usually begins to grow and soon blooms.
4. Down with wild animals! Grafted roses need regular monitoring. Below the grafting site, they can grow wildlings. Moreover, this process intensifies when the rose is weakened by a difficult wintering (as this year). If the wilds are not removed in time, they can completely “pull” the food onto themselves, and the varietal shoots will die.
Sometimes a grafted rose grows normally for years, and no wilds appear in it. The gardener has already forgotten that this bush is grafted. But after a harsh winter, the entire varietal part froze, and only the roots remained in the ground. They are alive, and new shoots have begun to grow from them. Inexperienced gardeners doubt: is it a wild or a varietal rose?
IN summer time you can and should prune roses. If they are pruned to form and improve the bush, this is a sanitary procedure. But another thing is pruning rose bushes in the summer after flowering.
About caring for roses after flowering in summer
After the end of the first abundant flowering of roses in summer season she needs special care. It helps subsequently to release new shoots again, on which buds will appear. The flower may bloom again in autumn.
How to prune roses after flowering in summer so that they bloom again? After the buds have faded, wilted flowers are removed, and too shortened. long stems to give the bush a harmonious shape.
Note! There are non-repairable roses that bloom only once a season, so pruning them will not produce new buds.
Also during the summer without fail weeding is carried out in flower beds with rose bushes, soil mulching, watering and top dressing. If necessary, the bushes are sprayed with fungicides to protect against insects and diseases.
With regular soil mulching weed grass practically does not appear. To feed the bushes, potash fertilizers are scattered next to them. You can buy ready-made or use chicken manure.
If the weather is dry and long time there was no precipitation, then rose bushes should be watered often. After watering, the soil is mulched. This will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil. As mulch, use tree bark, chips or other organic materials. The mulch is laid out in a layer of 10 cm. The place near the bush with a diameter of 10 cm is not covered.
rose pruning
Why are roses pruned?
Depending on the height of the rose bushes, the varieties of the group to which they belong, the seasons are used various ways pruning.
The first spring removal of branches from rose bushes is carried out to form appearance bush to remove excess shoots that prevent the normal growth of other stems, as well as to remove damaged ones. This is primarily for decorative purposes.
Trimming in autumn time prepares the bush for entering the winter, which contributes to:
- acceleration of the process of formation of new stems;
- strengthening the development of the root system;
- getting the plant more nutrients;
- reduce the risk of infection.
Note! Proper pruning of the stems of rose bushes is the key to the appearance of updated shoots and the formation of new buds. Without having certain knowledge of such a procedure, you can cause irreparable harm to the plant.
Do roses need to be cut off faded buds? Such removal is carried out, first of all, in order to preserve the attractive appearance of the bush, and also contributes to the continuation of flowering. After that, the rose directs its strength to the process of throwing out new shoots with buds. This procedure is carried out until the moment when the plant begins to prepare for winter, and the branches harden.
More about pruning roses after flowering
When starting to remove wilted buds, you need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp spikes. The cut is carried out with a sharp pruner.
How to prune roses after flowering in summer? Cut off those flowers in which the petals have become weak and have begun to crumble. At this time, the blossoming buds begin to wither and bend down to the ground. At the same time, stems growing in the wrong direction can be removed. Excess shoots are removed to allow sunlight and air to enter the bush.
Before determining the place of the cut, carefully examine the leaves. They are united on the handle in groups of several pieces. The correct cut is made over a sheet, which consists of at least 5 small sheets. It should be noted that the new shoot will grow in the direction in which the leaf grows.
Note! When cutting a shoot over a cutting consisting of 3 leaves, a non-flowering shoot may grow. The appearance of new flowers on them is possible only for the next season.
How to prune faded rose buds for re-blooming
Pruning roses in July after flowering is carried out by removing the buds along with the branch. And you should pay attention to the growth point - near the place where the stalk connects to the leaf. Subsequently, a shoot begins to grow from it again, on which a new bud will be formed. You need to take into account the age of the bushes. Shoots from annual plants are cut about half.
Important! The branch should be cut only above the growing point.
The following year, each pruned branch will give 2-3 shoots. Biennials are shortened by 2-3 eyes from the beginning of the base, and annuals are shortened directly above the upper bud, located under the faded bud.
In adult plants (over 3 years of age), all dead and weak branches are completely removed, as well as small shoots formed after pruning in the previous year.
If you have to cut a large number bushes, it is not necessary to carefully determine the place of the cut. It is enough to remove the branch at a distance of about 5-8 mm above the selected leaf, since the growth points are located almost next to the leaves.
Pruning allows roses to be enjoyed longer during the flowering season. If faded roses are not cut off, then rose hips and seeds begin to form from them.
Many people believe that the process of cutting a branch must be carried out at an angle of 45 °, since with a perpendicular cut, a fungal infection may begin in the plant due to moisture accumulating in this place, and from an inclined one, water will roll faster.
Note! To protect injured places from possible damage, they can be treated with PVA glue.
You should not cut off a wilted bud by pinching the pedicel. After the procedure carried out in this way, a weakened shoot will appear.
Pruning roses with large buds has some differences from that of bushes of other varieties. They cut off the stem on which the flower formed to a certain place, and in spray multi-flowered roses and tea roses, after they have faded, the entire part of the branch above the first leaf is completely removed. This procedure is carried out in the same way for ground cover varieties.
Important! After the second flowering of the rose in autumn, pruning is undesirable. It is better if the plant is at rest and can prepare for winter time.
Pruning hybrid tea varieties
The branches of the bushes of hybrid tea roses are cut in such a way that a ball shape is formed. Since the buds are formed on the shoots formed in the current year, most of them are removed. Procedure schemes for such varieties use the following:
- on bushes one- and two-year-olds leave 2-4 buds, retreating 15 cm from the soil level,
- on adults - 4-6 buds at a distance of approximately 20 cm, and about 2-4 buds are left on the side shoots.
Pruning a room rose
Some believe that indoor rose after flowering it no longer forms buds, but this is not the case. With the right care, they will reappear.
Branches are pruned in early spring. The second time the procedure is carried out after complete flowering, while 3 live buds are left on the branches. Also, shoots growing inside the bush are removed from the rose in a pot, and those on which wilted buds remain.
Pruning scheme for climbing varieties
Buds in climbing plants are formed only on last year's shoots. After flowering, cutting of old branches is carried out only if there are new shoots.
The formation of climbing bushes is carried out in a horizontal direction. Flowers and young branches appear along such branches in summer. Pruning after flowering is carried out in late summer - early autumn. Old lashes are cut off, leaving 30-40 cm from the base.
Rose pruning scheme
Further care
Like other plants, it needs timely watering. Perfect option- installation of an automatic irrigation system. Specialists set it up in such a way that water flows under each bush periodically and in doses. This greatly simplifies the care of the flower garden. But since this is often not possible, it is necessary to water manually. It is advisable to moisten only the soil under the bush, and not the entire plant. At the same time, for one bush it is enough to add 5-15 liters of water.
Important! Water for irrigation should be preheated under sunbeams. Watering is carried out from 1 to 3 times a week. Their number is determined by the state of the soil in the flower beds.
Watering is carried out in the evening or early in the morning. Do not water in the midday heat. This can adversely affect the development of the plant: burns can form on tender leaves.
To ensure violent flowering, do not forget about fertilizers. Use granular top dressing. They are simply scattered near the plant. This is done 3-4 times a season. You can also use soluble fertilizers. They are first lowered into the water, and then poured into the ground next to the bush.
Subject to all the rules for summer pruning of roses, their abundant and lush bloom. And regular care and getting rid of excess shoots will help protect them from insect pests and diseases.
If you have started growing roses, be prepared for such an important procedure as pruning after flowering. Thanks to her, plants develop and bloom better. And so that the procedure goes smoothly, we will share with you a few tricks.
Pruning roses allows you to rejuvenate the plant, strengthen it root system, improve metabolism and thereby start abundant flowering. In addition, after such a procedure, the bush acquires an aesthetic appearance and better tolerates winter frosts. Plants that have been pruned have increased resistance to diseases and pests.
In order for all of the above to come true, you need to properly trim. If this is your first time doing this, don't be afraid to make a mistake. Of course, not everything can work out right away, but over time, you yourself will teach beginners. It remains only to equip quality tools and information about the needs of cropped plants!
Rose pruning tools
Before you start cutting, prepare everything necessary tools. Remember that they must be clean, sharp and dry in order for the roses to remain healthy after the procedure. Be sure to wear thick gloves to protect your hands from thorns. To work with big bush choose long sleeves and tight pants. As for the inventory itself, you will need:
- bypass secateurs - for live and dry thin shoots;
- pruner with anvil - only for dry branches;
- lopper or garden saw - for thick live shoots.
You may also need knee pads to keep your clothes from getting dirty while trimming thick dead shoots, and a small rake to clean up dead leaves.
Rose pruning rules
You can start pruning in August or September. The day is better to choose sunny and calm. The main goal is to remove faded buds, weak, diseased and fattening shoots. It is also worth thinning the center of the bush so that more light and air get into it, and cut some of the healthy shoots into cuttings for subsequent propagation.
Remove faded roses immediately, without waiting for the petals to fall. So the bush will save strength for flowering. Moreover, in large-flowered roses, a stem with a flower, incomplete leaves and 1-2 five-fold leaves is cut off. And in many-flowered ones, the entire inflorescence is completely above the first leaf.
It is important to make the right cuts, which will allow the plant to recover faster. The cut and its edges should be even and smooth. The angle of inclination is 45 degrees, the indentation from the kidney upwards is approximately 5 mm. Dead shoots need to be cut off until the shoot inside turns white. Also remove all thin shoots and shoots, they only prevent the bush from gaining strength for flowering. Correct option cut shown in the diagram below.
Weak shoots cut strongly, large - with less effort. And do not be afraid to cut off the excess, the plant will quickly recover!
Treat large cuts disinfectants(for example, RanNet paste, BlagoSad putty), garden pitch or charcoal so as not to infect. Small sections up to 5 mm in length will quickly tighten themselves, so you can not coat them with anything. Remove cut shoots and leaves around the bush to prevent rotting.
Now consider the rules for pruning popular groups of roses.
If each shoot is crowned with a glass, this is a tea-hybrid rose. It usually blooms on shoots. current year and requires careful pruning in the shape of a ball.
Feel free to cut strong branches in half, thin ones higher, by 2-3 internodes or one third of the length of the shoot. Also remember to remove or shorten weak shoots that grow inside the bush.
Floribunda roses are characterized by abundant and slow flowering. They are more unpretentious than hybrid tea roses, although they are obtained by crossing the latter with polyanthus varieties.
Before pruning, the bush should completely fade. Then carefully cut off the faded inflorescences. Shorten thick shoots by half, leaving 3-5 buds, and young ones by one third, so that up to 10 buds remain. This will allow the plant not to deplete too much after pruning. Cut out the old shoots in the middle of the bush completely.
If you do not prune the floribunda, then the bush will grow with weak stems and small flowers.
Shrubs are universal, and are used for both vertical and horizontal gardening. Their feature: flower buds are mainly located on the top of the shoot.
Depending on the variety, pruning may vary, so in the process you will have to rely a little on intuition in order to maintain the natural shape of the bush. On the whole bush, leave 3-5 of the strongest shoots, and on them - 6-8 developed buds. Shorten the shoots by one quarter or one third, dry - completely. Evenly spaced healthy shoots leave intact. Also prune the thin, watery stems so they don't freeze during a frost.
The stem does not need to be cut. For thinning, you can use the same technology as for spray roses (scrubs).
Ground cover roses differ from their relatives in their creeping shoots along the ground, which look great along paths and in the foreground of flower beds.
In autumn, plants also need pruning. Weak and diseased branches, old shoots are subject to removal. Strong shoots need to be shortened a little. Lateral branches on which there was flowering - cut into 2-3 buds. Also remove any side stems that deprive the rose of decorativeness.
There should be no crossing shoots in the center of the bush. If they are, they will also have to be cut.
Climbing, or climbing, roses require regular pruning. They bloom in their second year, so no pruning is done in their first year. At flowering plants in late August or early September, cut off all diseased shoots, and shorten those that bloomed by 3 buds. Cut old branches strongly, leaving 30 cm from the level of the root collar.
There are 2 types of climbing roses: ramblers and climbers (climings), the pruning of which has some differences.
Ramblers have thin and flexible shoots, like grapes. The plant blooms on the last year's shoots in a scattering of small flowers.
After flowering, cut the shoots with buds completely, and pinch the unripe ones. Pruning very carefully, otherwise the plant may no longer bloom. There are types of ramblers:
- blooming once: when pruning, 6-10 strong shoots are left, 3-5 annual and biennial shoots each; the timing of the main pruning - the end of summer;
- re-blooming: when pruning, 1-3 annual and 3-7 biennial shoots are left; the main pruning is carried out in the spring.
Climbers are hybrids of ramblers with other varieties of roses. Plants differ in thicker shoots and large flowers.
Climbers refer to re blooming roses and tolerate pruning well. It is better to tie up young specimens so that they have time to grow shoots. And a few years after planting, faded climbers are pruned. At the same time, the shoots are cut by a third, sometimes even by a quarter, removing only the very top. If there are old shoots, then only one, the most dilapidated, is completely removed.
Polyanthus roses are compact and highly branched shrubs with paniculate inflorescences.
They bloom until late autumn, so they are usually cut in the spring, shortening strong shoots by one third, as shown in the diagram. But in the presence of damaged and diseased branches, it is better to get rid of them right now! Also remove thickening shoots from the center to enhance the flowering of the bush. In total, after pruning, 7-8 strong main branches should remain.
Rose seedlings in containers and open ground no need for pruning.
Now you know how to properly prune your favorite roses. Only regular care will allow the plants to show themselves in all their glory, so pick up a pruner and get to work!