How to make a tactical ax from wood. Do-it-yourself taiga ax, features and varieties

Do not confuse a real taiga ax and a simple, familiar type of tool that is often found in the tools of the house. The taiga ax is a special type that will help out even in the most harsh conditions hiking or hunting. Find such a weapon by inexpensive price quite difficult, but if you have the skills, you can try to do it yourself.

A good strong knife is an indispensable companion for any hunter, huntsman, hiker or forester. But in some cases, its power and size in the forest, and especially in the Taiga, are not enough, or it is not very convenient to use. In this case, an ax comes to the rescue. Here are a few examples of actions where it can definitely come in handy:

• Tree and firewood cutting;
• Processing logs, such as peeling bark. For fine workmanship an ax will not work on wood;
• Making hunting traps from wood;
• Installation of huts or simple wooden structures.

As you can see, all rough work with wood can easily be done with a taiga ax. With it you can arrange shelter, light a fire, and get loot.

A good taiga ax should be light enough so that its use brings results and not fatigue.

Typically the weight of the weapon does not exceed 1400 grams. The bulk, of course, is contained in the metal part.

Components of an ax

It is better to consider the features of the taiga ax in more detail by familiarizing yourself with its characteristics components. These include: a metal head and an ax handle.

Metal head

The first striking difference between the metal part of the taiga ax and the usual carpentry tools, is the absence of the upper part. The blade also has a rounded shape rather than a standard straight one. This helps it penetrate deeper into the wood. And also, if you have such a blade, you can use the tool to chop logs not along, but across the grain.

The existing long beard firmly fixes the head with the ax handle, thereby reducing the risk of its fracture. It absorbs impact power up to 50-60%. This is very important factor in conditions wildlife, where there is no way to quickly repair a broken weapon.

The taiga ax has a standard head. The head also has an eye where the ax handle is inserted. For tight fixation, a wooden wedge is additionally hammered in.

Toporische

This part of the tool should be longer than that of a regular carpenter's type. It is desirable that this figure be at least 50 cm. This will allow you to comfortably hold the weapon and carry out sweeping actions.

When connecting two parts of the tool, it is necessary to take into account that the angle of inclination between them should not be the usual 90 degrees, but a smaller figure. You can roughly focus on 65-75 degrees. And another important criterion is that the ax handle, given its length, should be as light as possible. Otherwise, your hands will quickly get tired of working with the ax.

How to make a taiga ax

Unfortunately, not everyone can forge a new ax from steel. But if the desire to own a real taiga ax is great, and the prices in stores seem too high, you can try making it from ordinary carpentry tools.

Making the tool head

Before you start working with the metal head of a conventional axe, it should be inspected for corrosion. If it is available, then it is better to soak this part of the tool in a container with vinegar. This will take at least a day. Remaining substances are removed using a regular brush.

A semicircle is cut out on the inside of the metal head, this allows you to make the girth comfortable

The rest of the procedure proceeds as follows:

1. The front protrusion of the metal part is cut off. This must be done flush with the butt. If there is a protrusion of 5-7 degrees left, then it’s okay, but ideally it’s better to remove it;
2. Using a Bulgarian saw or emery wheel cut off the back of the blade, giving it a rounded shape;
3. A semicircle is cut out on the inner or, one might say, lower part of the head. This will not only make the grip of the instrument comfortable, but also significantly reduce its initial weight;
4. You can skip this step, but if you want to comply with all the conditions for the construction of a taiga ax, then it is better to comply with it. Both corners of the butt are cut off. This step increases the maneuverability of the gun;

The metal head of the ax is ready, all that remains is to sharpen it correctly.

Making an ax

It is necessary to pay attention to the manufacture of the ax no less than the metal part. After all, the ease of use of the tool will depend on the correct geometry.

This part of the weapon is made of wood. The most simple option Pine is considered due to its properties of easy sanding and processing. But there is a risk of its rapid breakdown. You should also pay attention to types of trees such as birch, maple and ash. The length is chosen at personal discretion: from 50 to 80 cm. In some cases, a size of 100-120 cm may be more convenient.

The process of making an ax includes the following steps:

1. The blank from which the ax handle will be made is determined. Its diameter must be at least 13 cm, and its length must be 20 cm longer than the final version;
2. The workpiece is cleaned. Then they split it exactly in the middle and leave it to dry. long time, preferably at least 8 weeks. It is important to consider that the humidity in the room should not be too high, and the desired temperature should be kept within 22-25 degrees;
3. The dried workpiece is processed using a chisel. A small hammer can also come in handy for this matter. At this stage, it is important to maintain the correct shape of the ax handle, which means it is better to look at the drawings and diagrams.

If this is your first self-made ax, then it is better not to rush to avoid mistakes in the shape. Professionals in this field will need a minimum of time.

Assembling an ax

When both parts of the tool are ready, all that remains is to connect them. To do this, they usually use epoxy resin and a piece of regular gauze or medical bandage. For additional fixation of the metal head on the ax handle, wooden wedges are hammered in.

You won’t be able to use the tool right away; you need to wait at least 2 days. In order to protect the ax from corrosion, after sharpening and polishing it should be coated special means. The taiga ax is ready for use.

Sharpening rules

A good hunter or forester always has a sharp ax, because there is nothing worse than being in the forest with a blunt weapon. As mentioned above, the blade sharpening of the taiga species is distinguished by its rounded, steep shape. This allows the blade not only to work on wood more efficiently, but also to become dull less often.

Manual method

Enough labor-intensive process, but for those who like to take care of their tools, it may, on the contrary, suit their taste. To begin with, a special template is made according to the dimensions of the tool. They make it from a piece of tin, defining correct angle sharpening. The ax is applied to ready-made template. And if there is a deviation angle, then they mark it and process it.

For manual sharpening often take wooden block and cover it with sandpaper. It must be coarse and fine-grained. Sharpening is done with the blade facing away from you. It is noted that one such timber can be enough for the entire season.

Mechanical

In the presence of special machine the process will go much faster and easier. But there are also some nuances here.

Mechanical sharpening is carried out as follows:

1. Place the machine on a flat surface;
2. Using a marker, marks are made to change the angle of the blade. This step is done when necessary;
3. Sharpen at low speed, holding the ax with the blade away from you;
4. At the end of the process, grinding wheel devices are lubricated with finishing paste. Then the tool is polished on it;
5. The sharpened tool is treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

To prevent the ax from becoming dull quickly, it should be stored in a special protective case. You should never throw an ax on the ground. And in order to protect yourself from possible injuries, it is necessary to sharpen the tool while wearing protective gloves.

The ax will please you with its performance for a long time, if you do not try to chop stones and too hard objects with it. And also when cutting, it is best to place a little wood under the wood.

An ax is such a simple but useful tool that most home craftsmen have in their arsenal. It is applicable both in dacha conditions and in many professional work, where you can’t do without good tools. If you treat the ax with care and do not forget to prepare it correctly, the result of the work will certainly please you and will not cause disappointment. Today we will figure out how to make this tool with our own hands.

Features of a homemade ax

An ax is a simple and common tool that is difficult to surprise anyone with. However, thanks to it you can cope with many complex jobs and ultimately get an excellent result. On sale you can find both simple versions of axes, as well as more interesting and original ones, for example, with decorative inclusions. If you don’t want to spend money on already ready-made option or it was not possible to find a suitable one among those, you can make it yourself.

Many home craftsmen, not finding the right tool on sale, decide to make it themselves. Such work cannot be called impossible or extremely difficult, but even here it is very important to act according to all the rules in order to get good result. It should be borne in mind that there are several types of axes that you can build on your own.

For example, there are special cleavers that are very popular today:

• mechanical;
• with electric drive.

Of course mechanical option is the simplest and easiest to implement. It is equipped manual drive. Making such a model with your own hands is not difficult. Blueprints mechanical tools are quite simple and understandable, and the principle of their operation lies in simple mechanical manipulations. This device consists of the following basic elements:

• metal wedge;
• spring mechanism.

When working with such a tool, the master spends a minimum of effort and time, especially if you compare this cleaver with a standard simple ax. As for the even more advanced electric cleaver, it contains one main part, which, after activating the engine, begins its movement - constantly rotating. The master only needs to add a new batch of firewood for splitting.

You should also know about other options for axes, which many craftsmen can make on their own.

• Carpentry. This tool is light in weight and size, and has a sharp blade. It is used in cases where the most precise and accurate work with wood is needed.
• Taiga. This ax can also be made with your own hands. It is perfect for cutting down trees, removing knots and bark.
• Tsalda. This tool is made to clear an area of ​​bushes.
• Kitchen. Such tools are made exclusively for chopping bones. A kitchen ax is a small device with a short handle and a large blade.
• Lumberjack. Suitable for cutting down trees only. Made from a long ax and a sharpened wide blade. It also has other names, for example, felling.

The taiga types of axes are recognized as the most popular and practical. They are distinguished by the following features:

• little weight;
• small area of ​​the stabbing area;
• unusual sharpening of the blade (the edge at the back is several times smaller and thinner than the front).

Certain tree species are ideal for making a home ax. It must be taken into account that materials suitable for such purposes can easily withstand significant vibration loads that occur at the moment of impact of the tool.

Any homemade ax What makes it different is that it is ideal for the master who works with it. By making this instrument with your own hands, you have the opportunity to adjust it to suit yourself, to suit your hand. The result is the most convenient, practical and easy-to-use devices.

Tools and materials

The ease of use of an ax largely depends on the correct manufacturing of its handle. One of the following is ideal for this part. the following types wood:

• maple;
• ash;
• birch.

You definitely need to know what steel the piercing component of the future tool is made of. Acceptable materials are marked 8ХФ, 9ХФ, 9ХС, ХВГ, У7А and many others. You just need to avoid markings MRTU, OST and TU on these parts.

Tools that may be useful:

• abrasive sharpener;
• file;
• marker for marking;
• chisel;
• magnetic corner;
• clamp;
• sandpaper;
• sharpening disc for sharpening the blade;
• Bulgarian;
• Some jobs may require a welding machine.

DIY making

You can make any type of ax on your own. It can be simple, hunting, Scandinavian, hiking, intended for throwing (throwing) or simply decorative - there are a great many options. It is also possible to update the tool and build a completely new and convenient tool from an old axe. In order to carry out such work yourself at home, you will first need to do exact drawing with all the indicators of the planned instrument. It is important to indicate the dimensions of all parts, as they can vary greatly. For example, the handle of an ax is not only quite large, but also medium or small, as is the blade.

From a spring

A small hatchet can be made from an old spring. It can be not only working, but also original decorative tool, similar to a Viking axe. You need to do this thing as follows.

1. You need to take an old spring from a car with a width of 10 cm and a length of about 40 cm. Using a previously prepared template, draw the contours of the planned device on the springs using a marker.
2. Draw the contours of the ax using a grinder with cutting wheels. Then carefully sand the cut piece, giving it the desired shape.
3. For especially complex work For metal, it is permissible to use a drill.
4. You can use an old chair leg as a handle. Drill 3 holes in the spring for fastening to the handle.
5. Cut a piece of the desired length from the leg. Saw this part into two halves. Drill 3 holes in each of them. After this, you need to assemble the handle, fixing it with bolts and screws. Draw the shape of the part on a grinding machine.
6. Finally, sharpen the blade. The result will be a beautiful mini hatchet. It is suitable for outdoor recreation or in a summer cottage.

From reinforcement

You can make a good cleaver from this part. This is how it is done.

• Take two reinforcement parts with a length of 50 cm and 8 blanks to make the lower and upper squares.
• Using fittings, weld a couple of squares. Then weld the posts.

• For the cleaver blade, it is advisable to take steel 8–10 mm thick. Weld the knife to the reinforcement bases.
• Now start sharpening the angle of attack. Place the knife in the middle part of the structure.

After this, a simple homemade cleaver can be considered complete. It can be a good alternative to a mechanical or screw device.

From a circular saw

A good ax can be made from an old disk circular saw. To produce reliable and strong tool V in this case You only need a carved disk from a circular saw. Let's look at how to make an ax from such a part (there is no need to harden the disk, since it is already hardened).

• Make a drawing of the future instrument on cardboard or paper. Cut out the resulting template. Transfer it to disk.
• Cut out the desired part using a turbine.
• Heat the resulting part using a burner. Drill 2 holes to attach the wooden handle.

• Trim off any excess residue from the bottom half of the piece.
• Clean the hatchet thoroughly using sandpaper.
• Cut a handle from wood. Lubricate adhesive composition two halves of this element separated from each other, install a pair of screws.
• Clean the handle. Apply varnish. This will complete the work.

From stone

You can make an ax using stones. This material makes good blades. However, it must be borne in mind that their production is a rather labor-intensive and time-consuming process. The following types of stones are suitable:

• granite;
• quartzite;
• sandstone.

For such an instrument, it is advisable to make the handle from oak. This material is reliable and sufficiently rigid. Take a pre-made blank. It should be free of knots and other wood defects. Make a cut, moving along the fibers under the anatomical structure of the handle. To do this, use a jigsaw with fine teeth. At the tip of the handle, make a slight slope, “looking” down. This is necessary so that the planned ax does not slip in your hands as you work.

Next, you can make a hole in the stone specifically for the cone, using a drill or bench machine. After this, you will need to hammer the prepared handle into the wedge. If you are making a classic stone ax, then you should attach the blade to a special Kevlar tape of large width. Such parts are famous for their reliability and durability, so working with homemade instrument it will be safe.

These rules should be followed when making a stone axe.

1. Grind the stone so that it fits as closely as possible to the end of the handle. This is the only way to tie him down.
2. There is no point in using very expensive specialized devices and machines in the manufacture of this tool. Just take it off the stone upper layer. It would be enough.
3. Never make a handle from raw wood. If you do not follow this rule, then over time you may encounter the fact that this part will dry out and noticeably decrease in size. It will be impossible to use the tool.

If you do everything correctly, you will get a reliable, durable and wear-resistant tool that will solve many problems that home craftsmen face in the country.

The result of an activity - economic or industrial - depends not only on the perfection and quality of the tool used, but not on last resort and how convenient it is for a particular person. As for the handle of a purchased ax, it is often this that becomes the source of a number of problems - intense dulling cutting edge, regularly flying off the piercing part, rapid fatigue, and so on.

Wood selection

It is clear that not every breed is suitable for making an ax handle. It is advisable to focus on ash, oak, maple, hornbeam, acacia, rowan (necessarily old), beech and even apple trees. But the best option after all, birch is considered, namely, the root part of the tree or growths on its trunk. This wood is characterized by maximum density. Consequently, the durability of the ax is guaranteed.

It is better to harvest lumber in late autumn. At this time, the movement of juices practically stops, which means that the wood is relatively “dehydrated.”

Sample exposure

Even an experienced master may not be able to do it the first time. quality ax. Therefore, it is necessary to stock up on several blanks for the ax handle. Opinions vary on the length of their storage before processing, but everyone agrees on one thing - drying should be done for at least 3 - 4 years. Moreover, it cannot be accelerated artificially. The process should proceed naturally, and it is advisable to choose a dark and dry place for storing raw materials.

It makes no sense to use “fresh” wood on the ax handle. As a result of the material shrinking, it will become deformed, which means that the handle will have to be constantly wedged, otherwise the metal will fly off. Undried wood is used only as a last resort, as an exception to the rule, when there is an urgent need to make an ax handle, at least for a while.

Preparing the template

A good ax handle must have a strictly a certain form. Trying to withstand it “by eye” is a futile task. The same applies to linear dimensions– they should be as close as possible to the recommended values.

Axes have different purposes. As a rule, a good owner has at least two of them. Cleaver and carpenter are a must. The dimensions and shape of the ax for each are clearly visible in the figure.

What to consider:

• The “tail” is made somewhat larger in cross-section than the gripping part. This ensures that during the work the ax handle will not break out of the master’s hands.
• Since we all have different heights and arm lengths, the linear parameters of the ax are not standard. They vary within certain limits. First of all, this refers to its length (in cm). For a cleaver - from 750 to 950, for a carpenter's tool - about 500 (±50). But it is necessary to leave a so-called allowance, first of all, on the side of the butt fastening (8 - 10 cm is enough). Once it is firmly seated on the ax handle, without splitting the wood, it is easy to cut off the excess.

If you have an ax on the farm, which is convenient in all respects, then it is enough to transfer the contours of its handle onto a sheet of cardboard and cut out a template using them.

Making an ax

Having a sample, this is easy to do. The main stages of work are as follows:

• workpiece marking;
• sampling of excess wood (electric jigsaw, carpenter's knife, etc.);
• finishing, grinding the ax handle.

• You should not rush to fine-tune the fastening part “to size”. During the process of processing the ax, you need to constantly monitor how tightly it fits to the eye of the butt. Even a small “shaft” is undesirable, since such a handle will have to be wedged out immediately. Taking into account the specific use of the tool, it will not last long. Therefore, grinding the ax should alternate with its regular fitting in place and adjustment within the required limits, with a small margin (about 2 mm). The work is painstaking, requiring time and accuracy, but the result is worth it.
• When processing a workpiece for an ax handle, it is not advisable to use files. Such a tool loosens the wood, so it is unlikely that you will be able to accurately maintain the dimensions - you will have to constantly remove burrs, which means choosing wood. For finishing it's better to use sharp knife, glass fragments, sandpaper with different sizes grains The recommended direction for stripping and sanding is along the grain.
• It is also necessary to choose the correct angle of the butt attachment. For universal tool used for economic purposes, 75º is sufficient, for a splitting ax – about 85±50. This is also taken into account when finalizing the securing part of the axe.

Protecting the wood of the ax

Any tree is susceptible to rot to some extent. For the ax handle, linseed and drying oil. Varnishes and paints cannot be used to protect the material from moisture. Otherwise, it is not a fact that the handle will not systematically slip out of your hands. The consequences are known.

The composition is applied to the ax handle in several stages, and each layer must dry well.

Experienced craftsmen mix dyes into drying oil or oil. bright color. It is very useful if you have to work with an ax in dense bushes or in areas with tall grass. A tool with a handle that is clearly visible will definitely not get lost.

Ready-made ax handles are available for sale. If you decide to purchase a handle rather than waste time preparing wood and self-production, then it is advisable to have its approximate dimensions with you (indicated in the figure above). And choose a workpiece based on them. At home, all that remains is to slightly adjust the ax handle “to suit you.”

An ax is one of the tools you need to have on the farm. Of course, you can buy it in a store, but if you want to have a reliable and a convenient thing, it is better to make the tool yourself. The article will talk about how to make an ax handle at home with your own with skillful hands and install the metal blade correctly.

An ax handle is the handle of a working tool. Labor productivity completely depends on how easy it is to work with it. Therefore, a regular straight stick will not work in this case. The real ax handle is curved beam with an oval section and straight sections. The tail part should be widened and bent downwards. Only with this option the hand of the person performing the work will be able to reliably hold the tool without experiencing fatigue for a long time.

The following types of wood are best suited for making an ax:

• maple;
• birch;
• acacia;
• ash.

Wood should be harvested in the fall. Birch is perfect for carpentry tools, and hiking option Maple is more often used. Its impact strength is less than that of birch. Ideal option Ash is considered to be very durable and rarely changes shape. It is better to make an ax handle from a section of wood located near the root, and the workpiece should be 15 cm wider and longer than the future product.

Attention! Before the prepared beams are used to make an ax handle, they must be dried in a dry place for at least a year, dark place, for example, in the attic. This is necessary in order to finished form the handle did not dry out and did not start to dangle in the eyelet.

Fresh wood can only be used if the ax handle breaks, as a temporary option that needs to be replaced quickly.

How to make an ax handle

In order to make an ax handle you will need:

• wooden blank;
• hacksaw;
• chisel;
• pencil;
• file;
• hammer.

The manufacturing process itself takes place in the following order:

Attention! You need to make the ax handle so that the cross-section is oval. In this case, it will be possible to hold it without particularly straining your hand and make very accurate blows.

Impregnation of the ax handle and ax attachment

The upper part of the finished handle must be impregnated with a water-repellent composition. There are two options:

• drying oil;
• linseed oil;
• ski resin.

Lubricate the wood with the chosen product and leave it until it dries. The treatment is repeated several more times until the fat is absorbed. Ski resin can penetrate deeper layers of the workpiece, but it is difficult to find in stores. Therefore, the first two options are often used.

Advice. You can add a bright dye to the impregnation agent. This way it will be difficult to lose the finished tool.

The ax attachment to the handle is done as follows:

Watching videos and photographs will help you better understand the manufacturing technique. Making an ax handle with your own hands is more difficult than buying it ready-made. However, if you have the desire and some skills, it is quite possible to get a high-quality tool.

How to make an ax handle: video

The ax is the same the right tool V household, during tourist trip or hunting, like a knife. It is not always possible to take it if you are planning a light hike, but in this case there are different varieties this tool. You can learn more about how to make an ax from wood, metal, a tourist, or a hunting ax.

A battle ax is characterized by the presence of a narrow butt and a narrow, low blade. It's relative easy homemade an ax weighing up to 0.8 kg with a long handle (from 0.5 m or more). There are one-handed and two-handed, double-sided, with a spike on the back.

In order to make a battle axe, you need to use an ordinary carpenter's blade. The top part needs to be cut so that it forms a straight line. The lower edge of the chopping head is cut out with a hook, and the blade itself is rounded downwards. After this, the surface of the instrument is cleaned to a shine and hardened over fire. The attachment of the battle ax should be such that the lower edge of the blade and the end of the ax are connected by a parallel line, this will avoid additional loads on the handle. Ideal material The butt of an old birch tree will be used to make an ax handle. On the ax handle, where the head loop will end, you need to drill a hole obliquely, and then cut a slot under the wedge parallel to the hole made. After this, the head is placed on the ax handle, and a wedge coated with glue is driven into the gap.

How to make an ax from wood

A wooden ax cannot compare to the effectiveness of an iron one, but sometimes it is necessary. Thanks to its light weight, it can be taken on a hike to chop thin branches, and it can also be used as a training weapon or at home. How to make a wooden ax? The ax handle and head can be made either separately or as a one-piece structure. The material must be durable, dry, non-fibrous. It is better to use oak or maple. For making blades and axes as individual elements, you will need two logs, sawn in half, onto which the template is applied. Then they are well glued and joined together. The blade of the tool must be sharpened and fired over a fire, or wrapped in a steel plate cut to fit its curve.

Homemade ax for hunting

Indian battle ax

A hunting ax must have a good handle balance to deliver accurate blows. It is best to use an all-metal tool, since the ax handle is less likely to fall off when cutting up a carcass or when cutting the bones of an animal. If it is not possible to forge such an ax, you can make it yourself from a blade and a wooden ax. Before you make an ax with your own hands, intended for hunting or fishing trips, you need to make a thin wedge-shaped blade. The tip is processed with a disk with a fine abrasive, trying to give it a rounded shape (but not close to a semicircle) and not to overdo it with sharpness. After this you need to harden the iron. To make an ax handle, butt birch, rowan or elm are used. To determine the correct length of the axe, you need to take it by one end, while the part with the ax attachment should touch the ankle. When attaching the blade to the ax handle, its end must be wedged for secure fixation. In this case, a cut is made obliquely, after which a wedge is driven in. It is better if the wedge is made of the same wood as the ax handle. It can be placed on glue, and if it becomes loose inside the butt, the problem can be easily solved by soaking the tool in water. It is not recommended to use a metal wedge as it will rust and damage the wood. For hunting birds and small game, the ax handle is made light, weighing up to 1000 grams, and up to 60 cm long. For hunting large animals, its length should be at least 65 cm and weight 1000-1400 grams. In this case, you need to focus on the height and weight of the hunter himself.

Taiga ax

The taiga ax is characterized by a rounded blade and light weight, making it easy to carry. The total weight of the ax and head is approximately 1400 grams. It is intended for cutting down trees, rough processing of logs, constructing huts, and working with firewood. Therefore, it differs from a regular ax in the presence of a long beard, which protects the ax from breaking during strong blows; special sharpening of the blade, in which the rear edge is twice as narrow as the front, as well as a smaller angle of inclination of the head in relation to the ax handle compared to a carpentry tool.

To make a taiga axe, you need to follow the instructions:

• You need to take an ordinary carpenter's tool, from which you only need a metal head, with which the front part is cut off so that it is level with the end of the butt.
• The back part is cut down until a rounded shape is achieved using a grinder or grinding disc with medium grain.
• A semicircle is cut out on the inside of the chopping head for a comfortable grip on the ax and for carrying out precise work.
• To make the tool lighter, you can saw off the upper corners of the butt.
• Sharpen the blade emery machine or a medium-grit grinding wheel on both sides until a moderately sharp edge is obtained.

Next, the ax handle is made. It should be comfortable and made of durable wood. Birch, maple or ash are best suited for this. For comfortable use, the handle should be 50-70 cm long. Before making a taiga ax, you need to select a suitable piece of wood without knots or rotten areas, with a diameter of at least 12 cm. The selected lump should be split in two and dried for a couple of months at a temperature of +22 degrees. After this is given required form axes according to the template. Excess wood is removed with a small hatchet, knife, and then processed with a chisel. All that remains is to attach the butt and secure it using epoxy resin. Finishing The ax handle includes sanding and varnishing.

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