Lining is excellent universal material for final finishing of ceiling surfaces, internal and external walls. This cladding is also perfect for finishing door leaves in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern each time.
What particularly impresses is the ease of working with this material. You can easily handle clapboard cladding on your own.
But first you should always use teaching aid. This could be an instruction for installing the lining with your own hands.
Using instructions
Detailed instructions are one of the best assistants in the learning process of any task. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. Doing something yourself is beneficial, first of all, from a financial point of view. Especially when it comes to simple processes. Sheathing wood panels belongs precisely to this category.
For greater understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. IN in this case A photo of the installation of the lining is suitable as additional visual material. And of course, one cannot help but ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.
It is important to take advantage of everyone educational materials study all the details, master the technology. Then, already confident that no problems will arise, you can calmly begin work.
Stages of cladding
Step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists of performing the following steps:
Execute preparatory work. The lining is being prepared for installation. Impregnate special compounds, such as antiseptic and fire retardant. For subsequent processing, use stain or paint of the required color.
After the paint composition has dried, a lathing made of wooden slats or a beam with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. The fastening spacing of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation slab. To fasten the slats, screws or self-tapping screws are used.
The position of the slats or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the casing depends on this.
The installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. This is the basis for the initial procedure for attaching the frame.
Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Horizontal installation of lining with your own hands makes the room seem more spacious.
In the resulting cells, when using timber, arrange thermal insulation boards. Upon completion of work, the entire working area is covered plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.
The final stage is finishing wooden panels. The room takes on a finished look.
Technology correct installation lining on the walls is distributed over several steps and is strictly observed during the entire period of work.
The process goes in the following order:
- wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
- the paneling is attached to wooden blocks or slats. The grooves are positioned down. To ensure the evenness of the panels, make a bottom adjustment using a scrap of wooden board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the sheathing and the floor.
Differences in fasteners and their characteristics
Fasteners are used for fixation. The tenons of subsequent sheathing elements are inserted into the grooves and secured with specially selected parts. These can be staples, clamps, or regular nails and screws. Each of these elements of rigid fixation has its own meaning.
Nails driven into grooves are the most accurate, almost invisible type of fastening. The clamps are characterized as high-quality fixation. Staples require use mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.
Technique for aligning panels
The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. A decorative plinth is laid along the line where it joins the corner. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out very beautiful appearance.
A similar finishing with plinths is carried out along all lines where the wall surfaces meet the ceiling, along wall corners and protrusions.
The procedure for covering the ceiling
Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The only difference is in the initial order of the panels.
Layout and fastening start from the window and lead towards the opposite wall. Thus, the shadows that appear between the facing elements are hidden.
Photo of lining installation
Despite the emergence of an increasing number of different finishing materials, “lining” still “does not go out of fashion.” This material is from natural wood loved for its environmental friendliness, attractive appearance, the ability to hide unevenness and defects in walls and ceilings and, most importantly, for the comparative ease of installation. Not only professional builders, but also “home craftsmen”. Of course, for this it is necessary to comply with several simple rules, which we will talk about in this article. So, we lay the wooden lining ourselves.
Calculation of the required amount of material
Before going to the store, you need to decide on the required amount of material. If for calculation required quantity wallpaper, it is enough to simply divide the area of the walls by the area of the roll and in some cases add 10% to the “report”, but when calculating the required amount of lining the situation is somewhat more complicated.
The lining is available in lengths of 6, 4, 3, 2.7, 2.1 and 2 meters. It is ideal when the length of your wall is equal to or slightly less than one of the lining lengths offered on the market. But what if it is significantly smaller than one of the sizes, but slightly larger than the other? Let's look at this case using an example.
Let's say you need to cover a wall 3 meters 12 centimeters long. For this purpose, you can purchase a 4-meter-long lining, but in this case, almost a quarter of the material will be unclaimed (in other words, you will buy 25% more lining than you need). Another option is to buy boards 3 meters long and add a small section to each of them. But, you must admit, such “short ones” will not look very beautiful. That's why the best option in this case, it will be to buy a lining 2 meters 10 centimeters long. Thus, we can cover three rows of lining with two boards (one whole and one cut in half) and the amount of waste in this case will be minimal. Based on this, it will be enough to divide the height of the room by the height of one lining board and multiply the resulting result by 1.5. This is exactly how many boards 2.1 meters long will be needed to cover this wall.
An example of laying lining “three boards on two rows”
Choosing lining in the store
Unlike wallpaper or, say, plastic panels, materials in which the presence of defects is unlikely, the lining must be carefully selected. Moreover, the manufacturer’s brand in this case does not play any role - even from the same company, two different batches of lining can differ significantly from each other.
The quality of the lining is divided into four main grades: A, B, C and Extra. The Extra variety is of the highest quality, so if finances allow, it is better to purchase it and almost guarantee to save yourself from unpleasant surprises in the form of defects.
It’s better to buy lining not in packaging - you can inspect each board and weed out defects before purchasing
Grade A is also quite High Quality, but with grades B and C it is better, as they say, to “keep your eyes open.” It is better to purchase lining not in packaging - this way you can inspect each board and weed out defects before purchasing. But such lining is sold extremely rarely; more often the boards are packed in 10 pieces per transparent film. In this case, unfortunately, it will not be possible to inspect every board.
More often, boards are packed in 10 pieces in transparent film.
Although, to tell the truth, completely unusable boards are extremely rare. Even if there are one or two knots, the board can be used to make short sections for covering the slopes of a window or, say, a door jamb.
But it makes sense to inspect the ends of the lining, visible through the film, quite carefully. If you notice chips or knots on them, it is better to put such packages aside.
Before laying, the lining must be prepared in a certain way. First, you need to inspect the boards for the presence of knots and cracks, and if they are found, either put these boards aside, or (if there is “butt” material) eliminate the defects by stripping or puttying problem areas. And, secondly, the lining must be allowed to “acclimatize” in the room. In other words, it must reach room temperature, because otherwise (especially if the material was stored outside) the board may “lead” after laying. To do this, it is enough to lay out the boards in several layers, making spacers of timber between them.
Before laying, the lining must be prepared in a certain way
Some believe that on preparatory stage the lining needs to be processed antiseptics, but, as practice shows, it will be enough to apply an antiseptic already on finished walls, so this preparation stage can be completely skipped.
Preparing the walls
Preparing walls for laying lining can be considered the most critical stage, on which the final result largely depends. In most cases, except when the lining is stuffed directly onto wooden walls, to install it on the walls it is necessary to mount a sheathing of timber.
To install the lining on the walls, it is necessary to install a sheathing made of timber
A beam with a cross section of 40 by 20 millimeters is best suited for this purpose.
You don’t have to pre-level the walls before laying the lining, but it is necessary to align the sheathing at the same level.
To do this, the first step is to determine the most protruding area on each wall. This is quite easy to do. A cord is stretched under the ceiling at a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the wall, onto which a thread with a load is hung using a wire hook, which represents a plumb line. Next, the plumb line moves along the wall. By controlling the distance between the plumb line and different points on the wall, it will be possible to determine the most protruding section. All further measurements will have to “dance” from this place.
A small piece of timber is attached to the most protruding section of the wall, from which the sheathing will be mounted. A thread is pulled from this “beacon”, parallel to the planned direction of laying the lining. After this, at the extreme points of the wall (at the floor and ceiling when laying vertically or at opposite walls when horizontal) two are installed load-bearing beams. Please note that front part The beam must clearly coincide with the level of the lighthouse, so if necessary, small spacers of the required thickness are installed between the beam and the wall.
If necessary, small spacers of the required thickness are installed between the beam and the wall
Spacers can only be installed in those places where the timber will be attached to the wall with dowel nails.
When the outer bars are fixed (don't forget to check them with a level), you can stretch another thread between them, which will make it easier to install the remaining load-bearing elements of the sheathing.
Subsequent beams are attached to the wall at a distance of about one meter from each other. In this case, as in the case of the outer bars, if necessary, additional spacers are placed under them. If one row of lining will be formed from two boards, be sure to install a beam at the joint.
Fastening the lining to the wall
If the sheathing is installed correctly, installation of the lining itself will not be difficult. The only question that needs to be resolved before installing it is where to start laying the lining and whether to use a level when installing the first board.
To answer this question, it is necessary to determine how much the ceiling (with horizontal laying) or walls (when laid vertically) in the room correspond to the level. If they are level, then there are no problems - you can start installation both from above and from below (or from any corner), and the first board is attached strictly level. But if the ceiling is a little “piled up” on one side or one of the corners is noticeably “mewed” (this situation is quite common in houses old building), then laying the lining level is under no circumstances possible. In this case, straight boards will only emphasize the curvature of the room, and in uneven corner you will have to cut the last of the boards "at an angle".
In order to hide the unevenness of the room as much as possible, the lining is laid as follows. The first board is attached close to the crooked corner or uneven ceiling, and all subsequent boards are installed with a slight distortion on one side, until the next board is “level.” Thus, a slight tilt of the boards will be almost invisible.
To accurately determine with what skew to install the boards, you need to measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling in opposite corners of the room (or the length of the floor and ceiling between opposite corners when laying vertically) and divide the difference between the obtained values by the number of boards that will be laid on the shorter side . The resulting value will be the distance by which you need to “fill” each of the lining boards along the longer side of the installation. If this value is less than 2-3 millimeters, you can repeat the calculation using half the number of boards as a divisor. In this case, you will “reach the level” already in the middle of the wall.
The first board of the lining is attached with a “ridge” to the corner. You can fix it with the help of small nails, which are driven in “sunk” (when finishing off it is better to use a blunt closer) or with the help of special clamps - gluers.
You can fix the lining with the help of small nails that are driven in “sunk”
The structure of the lining
Lining – popular look decorative design walls and ceilings of balconies, loggias, bathrooms, residential and office premises. This type of finish is characterized by durability, ease of installation, variety color solutions, attractive appearance. To get the expected result, it is important not only to choose quality material, but also follow the fastening technology.
Features of lining installation
In most cases, lining panels are not attached directly to the wall, but to the sheathing, which eliminates the occurrence of deformations and premature destruction of the finish.
The distance between the bars should not exceed 60 cm
Between the beams of the sheathing, as a rule, heat and waterproofing material is laid.
The thickness of the bars depends on the thickness of the insulation
Several lamella layouts are used:
Fastening elements must not only securely fix the parts, but also be as inconspicuous as possible so as not to spoil the appearance decorative covering. In practice, several types of fixing the lining to the sheathing are used.
Fastening with finishing nails
Finishing studs– these are special nails of small thickness. They easily enter the material without causing cracking. Their distinctive feature– a reduced cap that is easily recessed into the thickness of the part. Unlike construction nails, finishing nails cannot withstand increased loads and are used only for hidden fastening of finishing materials in structures that will not be subject to shrinkage, tearing and bending. This installation method is not suitable for installing temporary coverings, since it is almost impossible to remove a thin nail from the panel.
Finishing studs are available with different types coatings and are selected depending on the location and type of finish:
- black– steel fasteners without an additional anti-corrosion layer for work in absolutely dry rooms;
- galvanized- inexpensive and most popular variety, a layer of zinc gives reliable protection, the products are suitable for use in all types of structures that do not have direct contact with water;
- with copper, brass, chrome or bronze plating– more expensive types of fasteners that can be used in rooms with high humidity and in open spaces, with increased requirements for aesthetic finishing, when working with expensive types of wooden lining.
Any novice craftsman who knows how to use a hammer can handle the job. Also during the installation process, a hammer is used - the device allows you to drown the head of the nail without damaging the material.
When the panels are positioned vertically (the sheathing must be horizontal), installation is carried out in the following sequence:
Fastening in a horizontal position is carried out using a similar technology.
Mounting on clamps
Kleimers– special stamped brackets with a hook and holes designed for fastening finishing panels. Products are available in several sizes for various types lining and finishing panels.
This type of installation is more labor-intensive and expensive, but has a number of advantages:
The work is performed in the following sequence:
Useful video on choosing clamps and attaching them to self-tapping screws:
Current prices for your city:
Self-tapping installation
Through fastening with self-tapping screws across the entire board, and not through a groove, is the simplest, quite reliable, but not The best decision for wooden lining. With this method, the integrity of the material is compromised, so the holes must be regularly treated with special protective mastics to prevent destruction and rotting of the wood. Despite all efforts, over time, fastener installation locations may become visible, significantly impairing aesthetics. decorative finishing. Usually the first and last panels are mounted this way for reliability, and for the rest they use mounting on finishing studs or klyamers.
How to attach plastic lining
Plastic slats– a more popular type of material for finishing balconies and bathrooms than wooden analogues for a number of reasons:
- lighter weight, which reduces the load on the base plate;
- affordable cost;
- ease of installation;
- resistance to temperature and humidity changes.
Since PVC panels are not subject to rotting, any methods and fasteners can be used to fasten the lining. Plastic does not require impregnation and processing, unlike wooden planks. Lightweight PVC panels can be mounted with glue without constructing a sheathing, provided the surface is level.
Fastening plastic lining self-tapping screws
With the help of lining, you can relatively easily and quickly give an auxiliary room an attractive residential look. Knowing the installation features will help you do right choice method of fastening depending on the type of material of the panels and the purpose of the room.
Eurolining is almost the same wooden lining, only manufactured according to European standard DIN 68126. Latest technology processing makes this environmentally friendly pure material even more moisture-resistant and durable, and also greatly facilitate its installation.
This environmentally friendly material will allow you to easily level the walls or improve the interior of the room, but also visually expand the room, giving it your own individual style. So that the eurolining still long years pleased your eye, do not neglect the following recommendations for its installation.
What tools will you need?
In order to carry out installation correctly, without resorting to the help of professional workers, you will need:
- perforator;
- jigsaw;
- drill;
- hammer or hammer;
- ruler with level;
- mounting thread;
- wood screws;
Preparing for installation
Eurolining is a material made from solid wood. Therefore, the color and texture of each panel may vary.
Before you begin installation it is necessary to prepare the material. To do this, you need to unpack it and leave it room temperature for 2-3 days to allow it to get used to the microclimate of the room where it will be installed.
Installation must be carried out at a temperature of no lower than 5 degrees and a humidity of no more than 60 percent.
5 ways to install eurolining
1. Attach with self-tapping screws
With this mounting option, installation can be done both from below and from above. Using a drill, a hole is made into the panel from the tenon side for a self-tapping screw, about 10mm deep.
After screwing in the screws, the remaining holes can be covered with dowels. When the installation is complete, the dowels are cut to the level of the board and sanded.
2. Fasten with staples
Installation begins from the bottom, the boards are laid one by one.
Using a construction stapler, the staples are driven into the tenon at a 45-degree angle. In this case, the tenon of the board that will follow should easily fall into the groove.
3. Fasten with nails
This method is very similar to the previous one. The heads of the nails should not be left protruding above the surface; they should go entirely into the wood.
Otherwise, you may have problems installing the next item. When using this method, it is best to use thin zinc coated nails and a hammer.
4. Secret fastening with dowels
Laying should proceed strictly from bottom to top. The first lining is secured with self-tapping screws, and their heads are hidden with dowels. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the tenon, and the next panel masks it.
The same can be done with a construction stapler. The last panel is fastened in the same way as the initial one. The final stage is sanding so that the surface can be leveled.
5. Fastening with clamps
Clamps are staples made of zinc-plated metal. They should only be used if you are producing interior lining thin eurolining.
The clamps are secured on the back side of the tenon. The initial panel should be secured with self-tapping screws, and the caps should be masked with dowels.
The clamps are first attached to the board, which is compared with the previous one. The clamp is secured with a self-tapping screw or nail. If they do not fit together, do not hit them with a hammer - the impact may damage the groove or tenon. If such a situation arises, it is better to place a piece of lath under the hammer.
Installing the sheathing
The direction of the wooden frame depends on the direction in which you decide to lay the eurolining.
If you decide to lay them vertically, then the sheathing slats should go horizontally. If you chose horizontal or diagonal method installation, the sheathing should be directed vertically.
Thermal insulation
Mineral wool can be an excellent insulation material. It fills the space between the lining and the wall well.
If need to add more hydro- or vapor barrier, you can use a water-repellent film.
It is attached with a stapler over the cotton wool - the shiny side inward.
Kleimers
— hidden fastening by means of clamps.
They are invisible from the outside and do not interfere with the expansion or contraction of wood, and galvanized steel does not corrode.
Claymers are sold in packs of 100 or 200 pcs. together with zinc-coated steel nails or self-tapping screws. Do not neglect such qualities as the elasticity of the clamps, the quality of the steel and coating.
Video - more information about clamps:
Wall and ceiling mounting
How to attach eurolining to the ceiling? It's easy enough if you have everyone necessary tools and desires.
Naturally, the room must have its own main ceiling and conditions for installing the frame.
The main roof should not leak. Frames for fastening eurolining can be iron or wood. The boards are installed using clamps. The junction of the ceiling board and the wall can be masked using wooden skirting boards or baguettes.
Video for the walls:
How to attach eurolining to the wall? If you decide to mount it directly to the wall, make sure it is perfectly level. Otherwise, you will need to first assemble a special wooden frame, on which you will mount the boards. There are many ways to lay eurolining.
For example, to visually expand a room, attach the boards horizontally, and to make it taller, attach them vertically. Laying it diagonally or in a herringbone pattern will help you add creativity to the room and show off your individuality.
The method of laying the eurolining also depends on the method of its fastening - from top to bottom or from bottom to top, with self-tapping screws. nails or staples. Upon completion finishing works internal and external corners are decorated with special wooden corners or hemp cord.
Finishing touches
When the finishing is completed, it will not hurt to treat the surface of the boards with an antiseptic. This will help protect them from rotting and fungus.
To make the texture brighter, you can use stain or wax. A matte varnish finish will also look good.
Attaching eurolining yourself is a fairly simple and quick task. This does not require any special skills or knowledge. In addition, at the end of the work you will not be left with mountains of garbage and waste.
Often words contain a reflection of the action that follows them. So, if someone tells you that he will nail such finishing material like lining, then my advice: run away from such a master, he poses a danger to wood material.
Yes, let it be at least a plastic lining!!! Nailing panels is last century , when protruding nail heads did not seem such an ugliness, how scary they have become since the advent of hidden fasteners today!
The correct term is: laying the lining, installing the board or installing it. The quality and durability of your repair depends on the correctness of the installation process, regardless of whether the lining is mounted vertically or horizontally.
So, in this article I will answer the questions:
Photo 1. Installing eurolining vertically
- What is the best way to lay the lining vertically or horizontally?
This question is often asked by our customers. The answer will depend on what goal you want to achieve:
Photo 3. Angarsk pine lining installed horizontally
For the best visual effect There are two types of fastening, both of them are hidden, this clamp and wood screw with a special design, because ordinary self-tapping screws often split wood:
Everything here is simple in principle.
For interior decoration use dry, planed timber 30/40; 20/40; 20/30 and other small sections.
Photo 7. Lathing on the attic ceiling
Placing the sheathing usually occurs in increments of 0.5 meters. To ensure that the logs are level, use a building level.
For installation, you can use ordinary self-tapping screws. I don't recommend black ones, they break easily, better take yellow ones.
IMPORTANT!!! If you are going to mount the lining vertically, then the sheathing is installed horizontally, and if the lining is mounted horizontally, then the logs should be in the opposite direction.
Photo 8. Horizontal ceiling lathing
The use of wood in bathhouses and saunas requires the panels to not only have a beautiful appearance, but also such qualities as low density and the absence of resin.
It doesn’t matter whether the lining in the sauna is installed vertically or horizontally - it’s a matter of taste. It is important that it be made of linden or cedar.
Photo 9. Sauna made of linden eurolining, Extra grade
Photo 10. Sauna made of cedar lining, grade AB
Plastic material in the bath?– No, absolutely not, unless you are an enemy to your health. The decoration of such premises should only be high-quality, environmentally friendly wooden panels.
Online store "LesoBirzha" will help you with the choice of material, experienced consultants will tell you how to install correctly, select fasteners, and our teams of carpenters will save you from the problems associated with installing the lining, whether vertically or horizontally, I repeat, this is both a matter of your taste and design tasks that You decide with repairs.