How to install a plastic window in a house. Do-it-yourself installation of PVC windows: step-by-step installation instructions

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Installing or replacing windows is an important component of expensive apartment renovations. Those who want to save their own money can refuse the services of apartment renovation specialists and try to cope with this task on their own. We will tell you where to start and how to install plastic windows efficiently and quickly in our material.

Installing plastic windows yourself is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first. In order for it not to complicate you and to soon please you with the result, it is worth paying attention to certain nuances. Before you begin installing the structure, you should clear the space in front of the window, set aside the furniture and cover the floor and heating radiators with a cloth. In addition, we prepare the window opening by clearing it of the frame and sashes.

Nuances

When installing PVC windows with your own hands, consider the following nuances. Their design must be securely fixed. This is, firstly. Secondly, in order to avoid foam settling and deformation of the window structure in the future, it is worth plastering the foam both inside and outside. Thirdly, in order to prevent the occurrence of distortions, it is necessary to adjust the verticality and horizontality of the system using a laser or oil level.

Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows yourself

Detailed video instructions:

To install plastic windows you will need a window structure with fasteners, polyurethane foam, an angle grinder, a level, a mount and a new window sill. Below we offer you brief instructions sequential steps, with the help of which you can correctly and efficiently install PVC windows with your own hands. The instructions are accompanied by photo and video materials, thanks to which the process of installing plastic windows with your own hands will look more clear.

1. First you need to dismantle the old window, frame and window sill using a grinder and a pry bar. First we will make cuts on the window frame, and thanks to the second we will pry it up for removal.

2. Having removed the sashes, we begin to install a new window. When inserting the window frame into the opening, we secure it at the corners with temporary wooden wedges. Using a level, see if the frame is level. If yes, move on to the next stage.

3. Using anchor bolts and mounting plates, secure the frame as in the photo. Then we attach the window structure to the wood using construction screws. It is strictly forbidden to use nails at this stage; they may cause deformation of the structure in the future.

4. The main goal of installing plastic windows with your own hands is to secure the window structure. Once it is achieved, we proceed to sealing, as in the video lesson at the bottom of the article. It is carried out using polyurethane foam, which should be applied evenly to a surface moistened with water. The foam used is not only a sealant that prevents street dust from entering the apartment space and provides good sound insulation, but also reliable fastening window.

5. You can remove the temporary wooden wedges after the foam has hardened. After which we move on to the so-called cosmetic stage of work.

6. Now we install the window sill, attaching it to the stand profile.

7. If the polyurethane foam used has hardened unevenly, it should be cut or trimmed. We plaster the resulting slopes both inside and outside using a special mixture.

8. After leveling the plaster, the slopes are painted or covered necessary elements. After this, it is permissible to remove the sashes onto the frame and peel off the protective films.

A smart approach to self-installation of plastic windows is the key to their reliable and long-term operation. Taking into account the instructions given above, you can install PVC windows without much difficulty, without resorting to the help of a specialist and saving money.

PVC windows, which are more commonly referred to as double-glazed windows, are extremely popular today. Which is not surprising. Such designs have many advantages over the old standard ones. wooden windows, which today for the most part not only have a rather unsightly appearance, but are also unable to perform the functions assigned to them. So apartment owners are striving to replace outdated structures in order to make their home warm and quiet inside, and beautiful and modern outside.

Today, the cost of professional services in the field of construction and renovation is extremely high. Perhaps this is precisely why many people are now trying to carry out similar works independently, without seeking help from specialists. Of course, not everything can be done with your own hands, especially if you lack the appropriate skills. However, there are jobs that are completely within the capabilities of a home craftsman, despite their apparent complexity. Among these is the installation of PVC windows. Almost every home-grown craftsman can carry out such a procedure independently. The main thing is to competently follow the process technology, carefully observing all its requirements. Which, in fact, is quite simple to do if you have before your eyes the instructions for installing PVC windows. Competent and detailed. And if there is none, we invite you to read our article, in which we want to talk in detail about what such a procedure as installing a PVC window with your own hands is.

Stages

Installation of PVC windows is a job that many home craftsmen are afraid to carry out due to the seeming extreme complexity of the process. It is worth noting that it is completely in vain. It's not as difficult as it seems to some from the outside. Moreover, when installing double-glazed windows, you don’t even need any special tools. So, almost a regular set home handyman, which is available in every home (we will discuss it in more detail below). The procedure itself includes several stages, including preparatory stages. To summarize, it looks like this: first you need to carry out all the measurements correctly in order to purchase the “correct” double-glazed window; then you need to prepare the opening for installation, install the window and the accessories included with it; then refine the slopes. All these procedures (except for the last one) take professionals only two to three hours. The home handyman, of course, will have to work longer, but during the day he can easily cope with the task. But PVC is still half the battle, because after installation you still have to tinker with the slopes, it’s better to count on a few days. Let's say, devote a weekend to this matter.

So let's begin. From measurements.

Calculations

To ensure that the installation of a PVC window with your own hands goes smoothly, you need to correctly calculate the dimensions of the structure. The fact is that you will have to order double-glazed windows, since it is unlikely that you can simply go to the store and buy them. You can, of course, call specialists from a company that produces and installs windows, however, firstly, you will have to pay for this, and secondly, such companies, as a rule, provide comprehensive services - from measuring to production and installation every PVC window ordered from them. Due to fierce competition, prices for almost everyone today are the same, and they usually charge about 30% of the cost for installation. Typically, the average is around $50. And if you decide to save money, you will have to do everything yourself. Including calculating the dimensions of the future double-glazed window. And in order to do this correctly, you must first study the old structure and the opening itself, because it comes in two types - with and without the so-called quarter. This is a special design that is present on the sides of the opening. To find out, you must first remove the cash from the old wooden window. And then measure the width of the old frame, first from the side of the room, and then from the side of the street. If the result is the same, there is no quarter. If there is a difference, then there is a similar design. From here you dance.

If there is a quarter, the height of the future window will be the same as the opening itself. But three centimeters should be added to the existing width. In its absence, the double-glazed window should be shorter by five centimeters and narrower by three. This difference constitutes the so-called gap. When installing PVC windows, it is necessary, since the installation of such structures is carried out using foam, and it requires space between the opening and the frame itself.

Well, if we are talking about a new building, then at the moment house construction technologies do not provide for the presence of such a structure as a quarter. That is, you will have a clean window opening. Feel free to measure its dimensions vertically and horizontally and take them to a PVC window manufacturing company. There, specialists will carry out all the necessary calculations themselves.

Additional accessories

Because correct installation PVC windows are impossible without the availability additional elements, then when ordering a design you should definitely pay attention to this. Plus, in addition to the double-glazed window itself, you should additionally be provided with fittings, a special seal, an installation profile and a window sill with a tint. As for the last two additions, there are some nuances you need to know.

These elements are available in several standard widths. Therefore, it is enough to measure the existing old structure and then choose the one that suits you. As for the length, it is better to take elements with a margin of at least twenty centimeters. You will be able to trim off all unnecessary parts when the actual installation of the PVC window sill is carried out. Well, the low tide, accordingly.

Once the design has been ordered and deadlines have been agreed upon, preparation can begin. Of course, you can free the window opening from the old frame only immediately before installing a new double-glazed window. There is no need to explain that it is impossible to sit in a windowless apartment for a week. The installation time for a PVC window, as we have already mentioned, is about three hours for specialists. Even if you tinker around all day without any experience, the old frame needs to be removed, of course, only before starting to install the new one. But you should prepare everything necessary for the process in advance.

So what will you need?

Tools and materials

When installing a PVC window with your own hands, the craftsman should have a certain and, most importantly, mandatory set of tools and materials, without which the installation process will not be possible. Therefore, you should be concerned about purchasing:

• Drills.
• A mounting gun, which will be needed when carrying out the procedure for foaming seams.
• Construction level.
• Chisels.
• Rubber mallet.
• Stapler.
• Hacksaws for metal.
• Professional polyurethane foam.
• Water vapor barrier tape.
• Construction screws, the length of which must be at least 12 mm.
• Laminated foil hydro-moisture-vapor-proof tape.

This basic set which is required when carried out easy installation PVC windows. If you plan to install a structure using them, then you need, naturally, to take care of purchasing them. It is worth paying attention to their strength. It is advisable to buy fasteners made of thick metal, since PVC windows, which are quite heavy, will still be installed, and not some light suspended structures.

Preparatory procedures

So, the new double-glazed windows have been delivered to you, which means you can begin preparatory work. First of all, you need to clear the room of furniture as much as possible. Installing a PVC window with your own hands is a procedure that requires availability large quantity free space, so we remove everything that is possible from the room. After which you can begin dismantling old design. Naturally, it is quite possible that PVC will be carried out in a newly built house with new window openings. In this case, we naturally omit this stage. However, most often home craftsmen are interested in how to install a PVC window instead of an old one. wooden frame. And for them, the information presented below will be extremely valuable. Although there is a statement that it is much easier to break than to build, nevertheless, everything must be done wisely so as not to damage the window opening. By the way, it will suffer quite a lot even without this, so try to carry out the dismantling procedure as gently as possible.

Removing the old window

If wooden structure If it is so dilapidated that the glass is literally almost falling out, then they must first be removed. To do this, it is enough to first remove the beads holding the glass. If it is still quite strong, then you can try to remove the existing doors along with the glass from their hinges. However, be careful. It’s better to get rid of the glass, so as not to accidentally damage your skillful hands. As a result, the window should have a frame without sashes and a window sill. Arm yourself with a hacksaw or, even better, a grinder equipped with a concrete circle, and saw through the old frame in several places. Then use a pry bar to remove it piece by piece. As a result, a window sill will remain. Do the same with him. First cut it out, and then break it out. The problem can be caused by a window sill made not of wood, but of concrete. In this case, of course, you will have to tinker. And the best way to deal with the problem is a jackhammer. If you don’t have the latter, use a grinder and a hammer drill.

After the old window is removed, carefully inspect the opening. Remove all protruding pieces of reinforcement and fragments of plaster from it. In general, make sure that, despite its somewhat unsightly appearance, it will reliable basis for a new design. And, of course, remove all dust and dirt.

Preparing a new window

Professionals install PVC windows almost always without disassembling them. Which is understandable, because they already have considerable experience. It is better for the home craftsman to play it safe and remove the opening sashes from their hinges, and remove the double-glazed windows themselves from the blind ones. Many people are afraid of this procedure, however, there is nothing complicated about it. To remove the sash, you just need to remove the pin located in the top hinge. To remove it, you only need to have pliers (picked it up and pulled it out). And then remove the sash from the bottom hinge. As for glass, there are no difficulties here either. It only seems like a PVC window at first glance monolithic design. In fact, it contains exactly the same glazing beads as wooden ones. This is a plastic frame located on top of the glass. You just need to pick them up with a knife and push them out of the grooves. Then take out the glass.

Of course, it is not always necessary to install large structures. In private homes, sometimes a small single-leaf window is replaced. In this case, you don’t have to worry and start installing it without disassembling it.

After the window is prepared, you need to remove protective film from the outside. All. You can proceed directly to installation.

Types of installation

There are two of them. The simplest is to attach the frame directly to the opening using dowels. The second is installation using anchor elements, which are first mounted to the inside of the frame and then attached to the opening. Professional craftsmen in some cases they combine both presented methods, which does not contradict the requirements of the technology. We will try to talk in detail about both options.

Technology

First, construction wedges are laid out on the lower surface of the opening, that is, in the place where the window sill will be located. The prepared frame is inserted into the opening, leveled using a building level and markings are made. That is, they mark on the wall itself the location of either holes for dowels or mounting anchors. Then the frame is removed. Further, the algorithm of actions depends on the selected installation method. If you plan to fasten with dowels, then at the place of the marks, drill a hole of the appropriate diameter for them. In cases where installation using anchor plates is envisaged, professionals recommend first hollowing out recesses for them, and only then drilling holes for self-tapping screws. Why is this necessary? Yes, so that these same plates do not protrude very much above the surface of the slopes. If this happens, it will significantly complicate the finishing process.

When everything is prepared, the frame is reinserted. Just before this you need to glue it on the sides with hydro-vapor-proof tape. Then the frame is secured on the sides with construction wedges and carefully leveled. After which the anchor fasteners are finally secured (either directly with dowels or with self-tapping screws). Moreover, experts do not recommend over-tightening these elements. It’s even better if the head of the anchor or dowel protrudes a millimeter above the surface. As soon as it becomes clear that the structure is strong and exactly level, return it to its place. removed glass and sashes. Then, using polyurethane foam, fill the gaps on the sides and top, not forgetting to remove the wedges.

As for the foam itself. It should be filled carefully so that there are no voids left. However, it is not recommended to do this in excess. Therefore, it is best, especially considering that this is the debut of a home master, to carry out this procedure with short breaks. We filled half a meter and waited a bit, at least twenty minutes. Foam tends to expand over time. And if you made a mistake the first time, then the next time it will be much easier to regulate its supply.

On the outside, after the installation of the window is completed, a drip lining is installed. For the same foam. And for greater confidence, they also screw it with self-tapping screws to the construction wedges, which, as you remember, remained with us at the bottom of the structure. As for the window sill, first it is measured in length and the excess is cut off. Then they are inserted under the bottom edge of the frame. It is enough to place the window sill under the window just two or three centimeters. The bottom of the window sill is foamed.

Important! If there is a very large gap between the window sill and the lower edge of the window opening, then it is not recommended to fill it all with foam. It is best to lay wooden blocks. Or even bricks. And after that, secure the structure with foam, not forgetting, of course, to level it.

At this point the installation process can be considered complete. Now it’s better to forget about the double-glazed window for a day and not touch it, so that by slamming the sashes of the new window for no reason, you won’t damage the integrity of the structure. After which you can begin removing excess foam and finishing the slopes.

Installation of PVC window in a wooden house

There are some nuances here, which are due to the fact that wooden buildings, due to the characteristics of the material from which they were built, are capable of shrinking. Logs are able to practically move when there is a temperature difference, contributing to the deformation of window and doorways, walls, etc. Which can cause all sorts of flaws to appear in double-glazed windows. It is for this reason that their installation is not carried out at all in the first year after construction. PVC windows in wooden house In addition, they are not mounted directly into the window opening itself, but into a special structure. It's called casing. Simply put: first a special wooden frame from well-dried material. It is then inserted into the window opening, aligned and secured. After which a PVC window is installed in it. This will reliably protect the glass unit from deformation and defects. Which, you see, is very important, especially when you consider the cost of PVC windows. Prices even for the most simple designs, although not exorbitant, are still impressive - on average, a small window costs about two hundred dollars. And under such protection the window is not afraid of any shrinkage. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that experts recommend leaving a larger gap between the window and the casing - at least 5 centimeters on each side. In all other respects, the process of installing a double-glazed window is the same as described above.

Installation of PVC windows on the balcony

Balcony glazing also has some specifics. If a complete structure is inserted into the window opening, then on the balcony the PVC frame consists of several parts that need to be fastened together. This is done using anchor slats, and some experts additionally recommend lubricating the joints liquid nails. Since the lower part of the windows is installed directly on the railing, before installation it is necessary to carefully check their integrity and strength. And, if necessary, carry out the necessary repair work. After this, a frame is constructed from wooden beam, firmly securing it around the entire perimeter of the balcony. Then the visor is attached to the top from the outside. Next, PVC windows are installed, which are attached directly to the beam. First, they install the front group, after which they move on to installing the side ones. As for the fastening method, use any of the two described above at your own discretion. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that it is better to make at least four fastening points on the sides, and at least three on top per window. The gaps are also foamed, after which a drip lining is installed on the outside, and a window sill is installed on the inside. As you can see, everything is quite simple.

Conclusion

We tried to tell you in as much detail as possible about how to install a PVC window in a concrete opening, in a wooden house and on a balcony. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the procedure. If you have skillful hands, it is quite easy to deal with. We hope that now, after reading you detailed instructions, the installation process will be easy and quick.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky to find truly masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, a blue insert is visible. This is a reinforcing element increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.

If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. There is no particular difference between products from different companies. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Profiles for windows in standard version have White color, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.

Window structure

To understand what is being discussed in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

• Frames. This is the base of the window.
• If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
• The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows with inert gas pumped between the glass panes. It also reduces heat loss.
• Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured rubber seal(it is usually black).
• Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
• To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.

Down on outside frame (the one facing the street) is drainage holes, which are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged outside.

The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.

Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the most small value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.

If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under the mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is chosen. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, you need to remove all construction garbage. Ideally, sweep everything away, even the dust, otherwise during installation the foam will not “grab” well on the wall.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them with cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. If the wall material is loose, they can be treated with binding compounds: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt installation. There are three of them on each side.

When installing without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the outside of the frame, and then they are attached to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.

In principle, small windows installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building on high floor— in these cases, installation with unpacking is necessary.

Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, load bearing capacity which are small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window should be exactly in soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation and unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
            • Close the window (the handle is turned down).
            • Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
            • There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on it until it sinks (you can take a metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
            • Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part towards you slightly, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

            The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
            

         2. On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
            • Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you don't have a special tool, it's best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
            • The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
            • Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
            • This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
            • With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.

            Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.

         

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.

         

      4. Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The lower one is approximately the same distance from bottom corner. Between them in standard window install another anchor: the maximum distance between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
      5. Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation required amount once.

         

      6. Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first a vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer part of the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

         

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is placed under the projection of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

         

      8. Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.

         

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.

          

          When installing PVC windows with your own hands, foaming can be done in several stages - depending on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. There are only Finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of hard wood treated with impregnation. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).

          

Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.

Installation without unpacking

The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal ones.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then install plastic windows yourself with mounting plates identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.

To date plastic double glazed windows can be called the best solution for use in any building. If you still use wooden windows, then it’s time to change them to more modern ones and forget about the annual problems in winter period. You don't have to paint them or plug the cracks, because plastic frames perfectly smooth and not at all demanding to maintain. We will tell you how plastic windows are installed and show a video of the installation process for clarity.

If you were interested in the services of companies installing plastic windows, then you probably know that they have normal installation and installation according to GOST. It costs more, but if all tolerances are met, the quality is better than usual. Read more about product quality requirements and installation work possible in several regulatory documents.

• GOST 23166-99 “Window blocks” – General requirements to room lighting, ventilation, weather protection and noise permeability.
• More specific requirements are described in GOST 30673-99 " PVC profiles" and GOST 30674-99 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles."
• Installation requirements are specified in GOST 30971-02 “Seams assembly units junctions of window blocks to wall openings.”
• The standards for heat and sound insulation, ventilation, and light transmission are described in GOST 26602.1-99, GOST 26602.2-99, GOST 26602.3-99, GOST 26602.4-99.
• Those. The conditions for glued double-glazed windows for construction purposes are specified in GOST 24866-99.

Do-it-yourself installation of PVC windows includes the following steps:

• opening measurements;
• dismantling works;
• preparing openings for installation;
• installation of a plastic window.

However, if you decide to carry out all the actions yourself, then a problem may arise: manufacturers do not provide a guarantee if the measurements and installation were not carried out by their craftsmen. If you're off by a centimeter, window unit It may simply not go in, and if you install plastic windows incorrectly, then in a couple of years they will freeze, leak, etc.

On the other hand, if you approach the work responsibly, having studied all the details before work, you can even install PVC windows better than the masters from companies that often save time and money by not following the technological process.

Let's look at all the stages of installation work in order, and start with measuring the window opening. This is the most difficult stage because it is difficult to determine actual sizes windows when already installed, especially in old houses. The layer of plaster and insulation may fall off after dismantling, and the opening will become larger than you expected, so you should carefully examine the walls when taking measurements.

First, let's look at the process of measuring a window in an opening without a quarter. A window quarter is an internal frame of bricks approximately ¼ brick wide (5-6 cm) that prevents windows from falling out and allows them to be more firmly secured. In addition, the quarter covers the mounting foam from sun rays what is needed in mandatory even in its absence. When there is no quarter, the frame is attached to anchor plates and the foam is hidden using decorative cover. Finding out the presence of a quarter is very simple: you need to compare the width of the frame inside and outside the window; if it varies greatly, you have quarters.

Window measurements are taken as follows:

The width of the window opening is measured. To do this you need to find out the distance between internal slopes. At the same time, in old houses it is worth taking into account the thickness of the plaster; it is advisable to remove it for more accurate measurements.

The height of the window opening is measured from upper slope to the window sill, taking into account the thickness of the latter. We take at least 3 measurements, from the edge and in the middle, and the minimum result is taken for calculations.

• Width = width of the window opening - 2 centimeters per installation gap.
• Height = Height of the opening - 2 centimeters per installation gap - height of the stand profile.

It is also necessary to check the straightness of the window opening so that its sides are not skewed vertically and horizontally. You can take measurements using a regular spirit level. If you are a fan of ultra-precise measurements, then use a laser level.

If there are any irregularities, you must indicate them on the drawing according to which you will order the window. Need to calculate usable space so that during installation the corners of the frame do not rest against the wall due to the skew of the opening. In other words, it is necessary to maintain a uniform installation gap around the perimeter.

As for the location of the window unit, if you look from above, it should be installed 2/3 of the width from the inside. If you plan to cladding the façade externally, you can move the window closer to the street.

To measure the width of the drain, it is usually enough to add 5 cm per bend to the width of the already installed drain. Its total width should be the sum of the width from assembly seam before external corner walls + 3-4 cm for the protrusion and + margin for bending. If external finishing of the facade is planned, the thickness of the insulation and finishing is taken into account, so it is recommended to install the drip lining after finishing the facade, but covering the mounting foam from the sun is important in any case.

The dimensions of the window sill must be equal to the width from internal corner walls to the mounting seam + inward projection size – width window frame(60, 70, 86 mm). The overhang should be of such a size that it covers the radiator from above by about 1/3.

It is better to measure the slopes after installing the windows, since it is difficult to determine the exact width. The length will be equal to the height of the window opening with a margin for cutting.

Quarter window measurements

If there is a quarter, you need to take into account its dimensions and measure along the outer part.

• Width = distance between quarters + 2 centimeters for the overlap of the quarter on the frame (2.5-4 cm).
• Height = distance between ebb and top quarter + overlap to top quarter (2.5-4 cm).

The installation plane is chosen along the inside of the quarter, and from it the dimensions of the window sill and ebb are calculated.

Many window manufacturing companies provide free measurements. Therefore, think before you take independent measurements, you may still leave this work to professionals.

Order a window

After all the measurements, you can contact the manufacturer and decide on the configuration of the plastic window. The fittings, the presence of blind parts and sashes are selected.

Also, when choosing, you should know that there are several window fastening systems:

1. fastening through the frame in the mounting plane;
2. fastening using support reinforcement, which is installed during production.

In the first case, during installation, the double-glazed windows are pulled out of the frame and secured, and then inserted back. The second option means that the window is attached immediately with double-glazed windows. Both systems have their drawbacks: when removing and installing double-glazed windows, their tightness can be damaged, and if this is not done, the weight of the entire structure will be large, which adds the risk of damage during installation.

Preparatory work

Preparations should only begin once the window is in place. First of all, of course, you need to free up the workspace and cover the furniture with polyethylene, because there will be a lot of dust.

If necessary, the glass unit is pulled out of the window and removed from the sash hinges. To remove the glass unit from the frame, you need to carefully pry the glazing bead with a chisel and pull it out. First we remove the vertical beads, then the horizontal ones. Be sure to number them so as not to mix them up, otherwise gaps may appear later.


After you pull out the bead, you can tilt the frame slightly and pull out the glass, moving it to the side.

To remove the sash from the frame, you need to remove the plugs from the canopies and unscrew the bolts. After this, turn the handle to the center to switch the window to ventilation mode, open it slightly and remove it from the lower canopy.

As a result, only the frame with imposts (lintels for separating the sashes) will remain.

Marking of points under anchorage, and holes are drilled with inside. Make at least 3 attachment points along the edges and 2 on top/bottom. For reliable fixation, 8-10 mm anchors and a corresponding metal drill are suitable.

If the walls have a low density (for example, cellular concrete), then the fastening must be done using anchor suspensions. They are screwed to the frame and attached to the wall using hardened self-tapping screws (6-8 pieces for each wall hanger).

Advice! To eliminate the temperature bridge in the place of the support profile, it is highly advisable to fill its internal cavity the day before installation polyurethane foam. This way you will protect yourself from freezing.

It is best to remove the old window on the day the new one is installed. Some owners prefer to keep old windows for recyclable. If you want to dismantle the window carefully, do the following:

1. remove the window sashes from their hinges;
2. remove old mortar from the space between the frame and the opening;
3. Having gained access to the window fastenings, dismantle them or cut them off with a grinder;
4. knock the frame out of the opening;
5. remove the old seal and insulation;
6. Using a hammer drill with a spatula attachment, remove the layer of plaster from the slopes;
7. dismantle the window sill and use a hammer drill to remove excess cement under it;
8. level the slopes and remove excess mortar;
9. Treat all adjacent surfaces with primer.

If the opening is wooden, it is necessary to provide a layer of waterproofing around the perimeter.

If work takes place in the cold season, then it should be warmer outside than -15 degrees. In winter, it is imperative to use frost-resistant foam.

Fastening a plastic window

First, you need to secure the window with wooden wedges around the perimeter so that you can level it, and then just attach it to the wall. Wooden substrates There is no need to remove them after fixation; they will additionally support the structure.

Sectional view of an installed plastic window

Another gross violation of GOST is the lack of a stand profile. It provides not only stable fastening, but also allows you to attach the window sill and ebb to it. In the absence of a profile, they are usually attached directly to the frame, violating its tightness. The diagram shows how to position the window sill profile at the bottom of the frame.

After this, you need to make sure that the window is perfectly level in all three planes. This can best be determined with a plumb line, water level or laser level. Popular bubble levels have low accuracy for such measurements.

Once you have positioned the window unit exactly without distortions or slope, you can fix it with anchors to the wall.

Using a hammer drill, carefully so as not to damage the profile, we drill the wall 60-120 mm through the holes prepared in advance in the window. First we fasten the lower anchors, but not completely, then we check the evenness again and fasten the remaining points. The anchors can only be finally tightened after a final check. There is no need to overdo it, otherwise the frame will warp. Fastening to anchor plates occurs in the same way.

Drainage installation

WITH outside The window sill is attached to the stand profile with a self-tapping screw or in a special groove on the bottom of the frame. All joints must be sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating inside. Additionally, you can deepen the ends of the ebb into the wall a few centimeters by making a recess with a hammer drill. Before laying, the bottom gap is sealed from the outside to prevent freezing. To reduce the noise from rain, we glue a strip of Linotherm sound insulation to the lower part of the ebb or make a foam pillow.

Window assembly

When all the anchors are secured, you can reinsert the double-glazed windows and put on the sashes. We insert the glass into the frame and fasten the glazing beads back, they should snap into place; to do this, carefully tap them with a rubber hammer.

Elements of plastic windows

Then you need to check that the doors open freely and fit tightly when closed. The window level is finally checked. An open sash should not open or close arbitrarily if the window is level.

Once you have ensured that the installation is correct, you can begin sealing the installation seam. We seal it with polyurethane foam and make it on both sides reliable waterproofing to avoid freezing and fogged glass.

Before applying foam, you need to moisten the cracks with water. Once the gap is filled, it is important to spray it again to improve the polymerization process.

Advice! Be especially careful when sealing seams! It is important to apply the correct amount of foam (70-95% of the joint space); if there is too little of it, freezing is possible, and if there is too much, the window may fail. After drying, the foam should protrude a few centimeters from the seams. Also be careful not to get it on front part plastic profiles. Fill wide seams over 8 cm in several stages.

Inside we glue hydro- vapor barrier tape for plastic windows around the perimeter, except the bottom. Along the bottom of the window you need to glue waterproofing with a foil surface, which will be hidden by the window sill. You need to stick a vapor-permeable membrane on the outside so that moisture escapes from the inside, but does not penetrate inside.

We cut the window sill so that it rests on the lining profile and fits into the opening. Along the edges it should extend onto the walls by 5-10 cm. Don’t forget to leave a temperature gap of 0.5-1 cm, which will disappear plastic slopes.


The window sill is installed on wooden pads, level, slightly inclined into the room. The empty space underneath is filled with foam and plastic plugs are glued to the ends. After this, you need to place a heavy object on it until the foam dries. You can also attach the window sill to anchor plates by screwing it to the wall from below.

Video on how to correctly measure and install plastic windows:

Now you know how to install a plastic window correctly, and you can probably do it yourself. It is recommended to finally check the operation of the fittings one day after installation, so that the foam has time to set. It is necessary to adjust the fittings to ensure a tight fit of the window on all sides.

These instructions for installing PVC windows also apply to balcony glazing, but there are some subtleties there. In particular, it is usually necessary to strengthen the parapet by additionally creating a partition from foam blocks.

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