How the toilet works in section. Old toilet: how to handle an old but reliable device

A toilet flush system is a mechanism that is mounted inside the tank. To make using the toilet convenient, the flush mechanism must be correctly selected, installed and configured. It is these issues that the article will be devoted to.

System Description

Principle of operation

The design of the drain tank is not complicated. The tank is a container with a mechanical locking system inside.

This system performs the following functions:

• controlled drainage of water from the tank;
• filling the tank with water after draining;
• stopping the flow of water into the tank after it is filled at a certain level.

The toilet cistern flush mechanism works like this:

1. Through the fill valve in the bottom or wall of the tank, water enters the container.
2. As the container fills, control devices (floats, valves, etc.) are activated. As soon as the water level in the tank reaches the set value, the supply stops. To do this, the filling valve is blocked.

1. When we need to drain, we press a button on the tank or pull a lever. As a result, the drain valve in the bottom opens and water flows into the toilet bowl.

1. Tanks with two buttons work similarly. By pressing the smaller one, we release only part of the water from the tank, and by pressing the larger one, we ensure complete drainage. This helps save fluid, so most modern models is equipped with just such two-button mechanisms.
2. After draining, the water level drops, the control devices are activated and the inlet valve opens again.

By and large, this is how all water drainage/receipt systems work, regardless of their design. Of course, there are nuances, but if you understand general principle, you will most likely be able to deal with unfamiliar fittings quite quickly.

Essential elements

In order for the entire water supply system to function as I described above, several parts must interact. They may look different for different mechanisms, but in general the set is quite typical.

It includes:

1. Filling (inlet) valve. It is a threaded pipe that is inserted into the hole in the bottom or side wall of the tank. The presence of a thread allows you to press the pipe against the wall of the container using nuts, ensuring. A locking mechanism connected to the rocker is responsible for opening/closing the gap through which water flows.

1. The rocker arm is the lever that drives the intake valve mechanism. The free end of the rocker arm is attached to either a float (a plastic sealed container) or a control valve. When this valve is triggered or the float floats up, the rocker arm rises and closes the gap in the filling valve, and vice versa.
2. The drain hole is normally closed by a drain valve. It is a flat or hemispherical elastic gasket connected by a hinge to the load-bearing part.

1. On top is a push-button or lever mechanism that controls the operation of the drain valve. When used, its load-bearing part rises (either a chain, a lever, or plastic frame), opening the hole. Water enters the bowl with enough high speed, and all contents are washed down the drain.

These elements can be arranged in different ways. In older models, water supply systems with overflow control and flushing systems with control levers/buttons were mounted separately. Modern fittings are usually produced as a single complex. On the one hand, it is easier to install and configure, but on the other hand, repairs are seriously complicated.

Varieties and their choice

A convenient toilet flush is very important for the comfortable use of the device, so it is advisable to choose a model quite pickily. There are several factors to consider.

The first factor is the placement of the filling valve:

• lower - the pipe is located in the bottom of the drain tank. A pair of gaskets are responsible for sealing;
• side - a pipe with a valve is inserted into the tank through a hole in the side wall, located almost under the lid. In this case, the entry point is made conditionally airtight, because water usually does not reach it.

In terms of efficiency and comfort, I would recommend models with a bottom connection. They do not make as much noise when filling, and shut-off valves of this configuration are also more reliable. Weak point is a gasket, so you need to monitor the tightness very carefully.

• older models are equipped with a lever, to which a chain or cord with a handle is usually attached. Among modern products this arrangement is found only in antique-style toilets;
• button is a universal solution for all mass-produced tanks. The advantage is the relatively small stroke, which at the same time allows you to control the volume of water drained;
• The dual-mode tank is equipped with a two-button system. In it, one button is responsible for emptying part of the tank, the second is for the hollow drain. The system is more economical, but also more capricious - it is more difficult to configure and repair.

Here the choice is quite obvious - a push-button or two-button option.

Finally, we pay attention to the overflow control mechanism.

Here the choice is much wider, but from the point of view of a simple “user”, two options can be distinguished:

• float system - the shut-off valve is controlled by a rocker arm or lever connected to a float.
• membrane system - when filling the tank, water acts on the membrane unit, which activates the locking mechanism.

Despite the fact that many manufacturers of sanitary ware in Lately They install a membrane system, I would recommend abandoning it.

Yes, it works well, but there are two nuances:

1. The membrane fails unpredictably, so at one “perfect” moment the overflow blocking may simply turn off. If you have good sound insulation and you don’t hear the murmur, the consequences will be serious.

1. If the mechanism fails, it is quite difficult to repair it even with a new membrane. After replacing a worn element, adjustment takes a very long time, but this does not guarantee that the diaphragm valve will operate 100% of the time.

It’s not news to anyone that the water recovery device is capable of failure. For such a situation, the design of the flush mechanism of the toilet cistern has an overflow. As soon as the water exceeds the designated level, it will begin to flow into the corresponding tube and will go directly through the bowl into the sewer. The device is designed so that liquid cannot leak out of the tank. If this transfusion works, it will lead to an increase in the cold water meter data, but most importantly, it will prevent a flood. The toilet flush is divided into horizontal and circular according to its design.

Horizontal implies the supply of water in a single stream along one side of the bowl and is a classic version.

The round descent involves the formation of a jet in a circular manner, starting from the contour of the bowl and is considered the best in terms of all user characteristics.

The optimal solution in such a situation is to change not the membrane, but the entire fittings, albeit with a cheaper float one.

Tank maintenance

Installation of the mechanism

If necessary, you can install the drain mechanism in the tank yourself. This is done either when replacing a failed system, or when purchasing a separate tank and separate fittings.

In this case, work is performed according to the following algorithm:

1. For replacement, we purchase fittings suitable for our tank model. The most important parameters are the location of the inlets (top or side), their dimensions, the size of the drain hole and the overall dimensions. Ideally, it is advisable to take a mechanism for the same model - it will definitely work.
2. Now turn off the water and press the drain button to remove everything that remains in the tank.

1. The toilet flush button is carefully unscrewed, after which we are able to remove the lid.
2. Disconnect the water supply hose.
3. Unscrew the nuts securing the filler pipe. We remove the part itself from the hole.

For structures with bottom water supply, it is advisable to place a small container under the hole. Liquid that collects at the bottom of the tank and does not go down the drain will flow into it.

1. We dismantle the internal part of the fittings, removing it from the tank.

1. We unscrew the bolts that secure the tank to the toilet bowl and remove it. We dismantle the lower part of the drain system and sealing gaskets.

This completes the disassembly. Now you can wipe the inside of the tank and the holes in the bowl to remove deposits. At the same time, it is worth cleaning the channels in the side parts of the bowl that ensure the distribution of drained water - they can become clogged with debris and lime deposits. Usually it’s impossible to get to these places, but here is the opportunity!

The installation instructions for the drain mechanism suggest performing the work in the reverse order:

1. We install the lower part of the drain system with sealing gaskets into the hole.
2. We put the tank in place, level it and fix it with mounting bolts.

Poor quality bolts may rust over long periods of use. Parts with signs of corrosion should be replaced with new ones.

1. We install the inner part of the drain mechanism, securing it to the drain hole.
2. We insert the filling valve into the hole in the side wall or bottom of the tank and secure it with a nut and sealing gaskets.

1. We connect the water supply hose to the outlet pipe of the filling valve. We turn on the water and check how the system works.
2. We adjust the operation of the mechanism, if necessary, adjusting the height of the overflow (about 20 mm below the top hole) and the length of the rod connecting the drain to the button.

1. If the drainage, filling and overflow control function correctly, and no leaks appear at the mounting points, replace the cover. We fix the lid on the tank by screwing the button.

Of course, differences in models may cause deviations from this algorithm. But, at the same time, most cisterns are designed exactly according to this scheme, which is why in 95% of cases this is how toilet fittings are installed.

The exception is built-in models, in which the drain mechanism and tank are located in the wall. If you have just such a device, and it shows signs of malfunction, the most the right decision will contact a specialist!

Trouble-shooting

Despite the fact that the price of fittings for a drain tank is relatively low, in some cases you can do without replacing it. To do this, it is enough to carry out relatively simple repairs or buy one or two parts.

When identifying a malfunction, the easiest way is to open the tank lid, gaining access to its insides, and see what, in fact, is not working as it should. If the system is at least somewhat familiar to you, then to understand the reasons, it is enough to drain and fill the water a couple of times.

In addition, for quick diagnosis and troubleshooting, you can use the table:

Malfunction	What to do
Overflow control does not work	The most common reason is a misalignment of the rocker arm or lever holding the float. After the distortion is eliminated, the float begins to move as it should again, and the system’s functionality is restored. For membrane models, the valve hole may remain open even when the rocker moves to the upper position. In this case, you need to adjust the membrane or replace it. Another reason is perforation of the float with water ingress. As a temporary measure, drain the water and seal the hole in the housing with moisture-resistant sealant. The float needs to be replaced soon. If all operations are unsuccessful, then the problem is in the intake valve itself, which requires replacement.
Leaks at the fill valve	They usually occur when the sealing gasket wears out. In the early stages, the problem is eliminated by tightening the fastening nut. If this does not help, you need to drain the water, remove the valve and replace the gasket that ensures a tight connection to the tank.
The drain button does not work	The most common cause is a misalignment of the lever connecting the button to the drain valve. After eliminating the distortion, the situation is corrected. Somewhat less frequently, the problem is caused by the breakdown of plastic parts of the fittings. In this case, replacement of the drain mechanism is required. When using the tank for the first time, the situation may be caused by incorrect adjustment of the system. To fix the problem, you need to select the height of the drain cup that matches the height of the tank and fix it in the desired position.
Weak water pressure when filling	If everything is in order with the pressure in the system, then we dismantle the water supply hose and clean it, removing lime deposits that may block the clearance. If cleaning is not possible, then replace the hose. If cleaning/replacing the hose does not solve the problem (i.e. the outlet pressure is sufficient), we inspect the inlet valve. To do this, forcefully open it completely and check the throughput. If necessary, we adjust the overflow system, clean the internal chamber of the valve or replace it.

Conclusion

The mechanism for flushing water in the toilet is not the best complex design. The tips and illustrations in this article will help you understand how it works, how to install it and, if necessary, repair it. The video in this article contains more visual information, and you can ask questions in the comments.

Often, when deciding to renovate a bathroom, owners also want to replace plumbing fixtures that are outdated or out of order. And in order to correctly replace and not make mistakes, you need to know the principle of operation of the toilet. Let's take a closer look at how a regular home toilet works.

Device

The mechanism of all toilets is based on the principle of a water seal. The device has its own system of levers, a float and a seal, which serve to redistribute water inside the structure. In other words, the device supplies water, the mechanism promotes its accumulation, and then flushes at the right time. The water supply is made using a hose, a shut-off valve reliably keeps water from flowing, and shuts off the supply when the tank is full. The float regulates the level of collected water. Everyone calls it . She is the one responsible for its reliable operation.

Consists of two containers. The first is a drain tank, it is located at the top and serves to accumulate and subsequently splash out water into the second container - the bowl. It is located on the floor and secured to it. However, there are models that have side, wall mounting.

When you press the lever, it drains. The principle of gravity directs the flow downward, the water enters the bowl and washes away waste from it, carrying it into the sewer.

Drain device

Drain tanks are widely represented on the plumbing market. They may have different modifications and designs, but remains the same. The mechanism drives the lever. However various models tanks can work:

• From one key;
• From two keys;
• In two modes.

Two buttons on the tank are a relatively recent development that allows you to save water resources. Depending on the need, you can drain the water completely or partially. If you press the big button, the water will pour out of the tank completely, the small one - only half.

In addition, water can be washed off in different ways:

1. Direct flush method;
2. Reverse flush method.

The first method involves the direct release of water from the tank into the bowl, the second - the water can change its direction. This flush is somewhat more effective, but noisier.

The visible part of the drain tank device consists of the following parts:

• Lid;
• Button (or buttons).

The invisible part suggests the presence of:

• A float valve that regulates the water;
• Plugs, which are used for side mounting of the tank;
• Drain fittings.

When the button is pressed, water flows through the valve that opens and flows from the tank into the bowl. The operating principle is the same as that of a water seal. If the water level in the tank becomes lower than normal, then the float starts to work, which, when lowered, opens the tap, and water fills the empty tank.

To ensure that the operation of this system is not disrupted, care must be taken to adjust and fix the float in a certain position. When the amount of water becomes too large, the float should be lowered, if vice versa, then raised.

Operation of the drain mechanism

In order to understand how the drain mechanism works, it is necessary to consider it in more detail. It is based on the action of reinforcement in several stages. Water enters the tank through a hose from pipes. The tank itself has two mechanisms - filling and draining. To allow water to accumulate in the tank, a filling mechanism is used. Having reached the desired level, the flow stops thanks to a valve that shuts it off.

By pressing the key, we activate the second mechanism - the drain. Water is served in portions and poured into the bowl at high speed. Thus, the waste is effectively flushed down the drain.

Few people pay attention to the structure located inside the tank; it is hidden from view. But the operation of the entire system depends on it. Water is supplied in several ways.

The top feed mechanism operates as follows. There is a fitting at the top of the tank, and water enters there through a side channel. There is a float at the end of the lever. When it reaches a certain level, the second lever begins to exert pressure on the rod. The stem has a membrane that is designed to block the flow of water. This is the most common toilet flush mechanism. Almost all plumbing fixtures that are currently on sale are equipped with it.

The bottom feed mechanism assumes that the drain fittings are located at the bottom of the tank. The operating principle of the toilet float in this case consists of moving along a vertically located rod. The pressure that occurs when the float moves will be applied to the locking membrane. And it moves thanks to traction. It is this that limits and regulates the water level inside the tank. With this method of draining water, the device produces minimal noise, especially compared to the previous option.

There is nothing unusual in these processes; they are all based on the laws of physics. But even such seemingly elementary systems can fail, which will require adjustments from their user.

What is a vacuum toilet and how does it work?

If you want to achieve maximum comfort and at the same time save water, then you should pay attention to this interesting model toilet like a vacuum. Outwardly, it is practically indistinguishable from ordinary standard device, but its mechanism works a little differently and allows you to drain less water at a time than a typical toilet. The fact is that the drainage operation uses not only water, but also air.

Today, vacuum toilets are being used more and more often. They have gained popularity due to the fact that they are convenient to use in many establishments, such as:

• Shopping centers;
• Hotels;
• Educational establishments;
• Transport;
• Airport or train station;
• Stadiums;
• Treatment centers;
• Multi-storey buildings and structures;
• Museums.

As already mentioned, the operating principle of a vacuum toilet is similar to the mechanism of a conventional plumbing device. It has a bypass valve and a water controller responsible for releasing water. Its significant difference is that when draining, only about 1 liter of liquid is used, as well as air. For comparison, a traditional toilet model can use up to 8 liters of water in one use. Thus, there are significant savings.

Additional benefit vacuum toilets is their ability to absorb odors, and also the fact that their installation does not require too many pipes large diameter. This makes them more versatile, with the ability to be installed anywhere. Conventional toilets often require pipes with different cross-sections, making them difficult to install in some locations.

Vacuum models are preferred in vehicles for a reason. This is due to the principle of their operation. The air supply to them is regulated by special pumps that create a vacuum. When someone presses the drain key, the valve is triggered, it opens, and then the air is simply sucked in. It not only promotes better removal contents of the bowl, but also removes unnecessary odors.

In order to control the cleanliness of the flush, one liter of water is additionally supplied to the bowl. This is usually enough to completely clean the toilet. The water drains quickly and the valve immediately returns to its place.

Plumbing tricks for convenience and comfort

Wanting to achieve greater comfort, people invent new devices that can improve their lives, eliminating the slightest moments that can cause irritation. For example, many people are annoyed by a falling toilet lid. That is, not even the fact of falling, but the sound that is made.

In this regard, the toilet lid microlift was invented not long ago. This mechanism has recently become increasingly popular and is gaining new fans. It allows you to eliminate the problem described above - the sound of a falling toilet lid. The microlift is not only silent, but also allows the lid to lower smoothly, without sudden movements. There is no need to control this process, which is also very convenient.

Thus, we examined the mechanism of operation of such an important piece of plumbing as the toilet. We learned how water is drained and plunged a little into the world of modern plumbing with its new products.

Without a toilet in the bathroom, it’s hard to call a cottage or apartment comfortable. Agree, this statement is difficult to refute. There are a huge number of models of this plumbing fixture. But especially difficult internal structure they are no different, the principle of operation is the same for all modifications.

If there is a breakdown with the water supply, then the flush mechanism for the toilet will most likely have to be repaired - it is the drainage system that most often fails in this plumbing fixture. We are ready to help you quickly deal with this problem.

In this material, we have collected and summarized information about the main types of toilet tanks, breakdowns that may occur, and ways to eliminate them. For clarity, the materials are accompanied by thematic photos and videos.

The flush cistern is an integral and one of the main elements of the toilet. This is a container with two or three technological holes for water supply/drainage and a lid.

First, water is drawn into this reservoir, and then, at the press of a button, it is discharged into the toilet bowl to flush the sewage down the drain.

There is nothing particularly interesting or complicated in the design of the toilet flush cistern. There are only a couple of mechanisms inside.

One ensures the supply and shut-off of the supplied water at the moment when it fills the container to the required level, and the second is designed to directly drain the accumulated moisture into the bowl.

Regardless of the design of the toilet, a flush tank must be present in it, since the direct supply of water from the cold water pipeline does not ensure the proper quality and cleanliness of the flush

Based on the material used, flush tanks are divided into three types:

1. Ceramic(faience) - reliable and cheap classics.
2. Metal- not very aesthetically pleasing in appearance, but a durable option.
3. Plastic(made of polyethylene) – blocks that are light in weight and installation.

According to the method of fastening and location they are:

• low-lying– installed directly on the toilet bowl;
• high-ranking– hung on the wall or located inside it in the installation block.

Separate toilets, in which the tank is separated from the bowl, have water overflow drain pipe. And the higher their storage tank is suspended, the more powerful the water pressure it produces.

Their only drawback is the not very presentable appearance of the tank, located high above the floor. Therefore, most often in domestic toilets you can see models of toilets with tanks placed directly on the edge of the bowl. They are more compact and aesthetically pleasing.

Water supply options

The internal mechanism for supplying water to the toilet flush cistern includes:

• tap ();
• levers.

Water is supplied to the storage tank through a hole in its body on the right, left or bottom. With the side method, the float is attached to the end of a horizontal lever, which is connected to the valve of the ball valve.

And in the bottom version, the float is connected to a vertical rod located in the supply pipe.

The basic principle of operation of the mechanism for supplying water to the toilet flush cistern is extremely simple. As a result of the emptying of the storage tank, the float, which floats on the water thanks to the air inside, drops following a decrease in the liquid level.

Once at the bottom, it opens the fitting valve on the water supply, and as the tank fills, it rises again and shuts off the water supply.

Everything in the operation of this mechanism is based on the laws of physics. There are no electronics in its design, which significantly reduces the risk of breakdown. It is possible that there is too little or too much water in the toilet tank.

Then the float only needs to be adjusted so that the filling of the tank corresponds to the required parameters. But if the levers break, then float system will have to change.

Types of drain mechanisms

If you need to flush unnecessary things from the toilet, we simply press the button on the tank. Everything else happens by itself. The water release mechanism inside is activated, opening the drain valve.

As a result, the water flow rushes into the bowl and washes everything into the sewer system.

The filling and draining mechanisms are not structurally connected with each other, each of them functions independently, but these devices start/stop in combination simultaneously

The drainage device is activated by:

• by pressing a button;
• pressing the lever;
• pulling the chain (string).

Tanks are available in different shapes and designs. However, most of them are standardized for a volume of 6 or 4 liters and have standard hole sizes for drain valves.

There are a huge number of water drainage mechanisms themselves, different in design. But if the one in the tank breaks, it can be replaced with a new one without any problems.

Our other article contains information about the design of a drainage device -.

The most simple variety The drain siphon is a “pear” shaped like a rubber plunger. Under the weight of water, it is pressed tightly against the drain hole and blocks it.

And when you press the lever, the “pear” rises due to mechanical force and releases water into the toilet bowl.

Then, as the tank fills, it becomes heavier and lowers back onto the seat, again closing the drain hole.

Everything is designed in such a way that, by definition, it cannot spill out of the tank. If triggered, such a transfusion will lead to an increase in the readings of the cold water meter, but will avoid a flood.

Structurally, the flush of water in the toilet itself can be horizontal or circular. First classic version involves supplying water in a continuous stream from one side of the bowl, and the second - forming jets in a circular pattern from its rim.

The horizontal descent is cheaper to implement, but is uneconomical and washes sanitaryware worse. The circular analogue is better in all operational parameters.

However, with a high degree of water hardness, its small holes may become clogged, which will lead to a decrease in the number of jets.

Operating principle of dual-mode drain

Modern models cisterns equipped with a double drain button. This is a tribute to the fashion for saving water.

Such devices are designed for two operating modes:

• standard– to dump the entire tank into the bowl (4 or 6 liters);
• half– to pour out only part of the volume (2 or 3 liters).

Such a system is more economical in terms of water consumption. But it is also more capricious in terms of setup and repair. Quantity internal elements it is increased, which means the risk of failure of this device increases.

A two-mode flush tank with a pair of buttons allows you to significantly save water, since in some cases only part of it is used, and not all of it

In addition to the dual option, the button for the dual-mode drain mechanism can be one. In this case, the volume of water released depends on the force of human pressure on the lever.

While the button is pressed, drainer remains open, and after being released it returns up and at the same time the drain is blocked.

Selection and repair of tank mechanisms

When choosing a toilet tank, you have to compromise between price drain device and its quality. Construction from metal elements more durable, but also more expensive than one made entirely of plastic.

The water supply from below is less noisy than the side one, but you will have to overpay a lot for it. The side-mounted mechanism is simpler in design and cheaper.

The Soviet float design with a plastic barrel on a wire arm may not look very presentable, but it is the most inexpensive and easiest to adjust option

The float is made in the form of a hollow sealed cylinder or an inverted glass. The first option is more reliable, but if holes appear in the plastic walls, you can forget about tightness. Water seeping through the holes will inevitably lead to failure of the float.

The principle of its operation is based on the presence of air inside. If punctures appear in the plastic, it must be replaced immediately.

The “glass” is initially leaky, it has an order of magnitude less trouble with breakdowns - but if it accumulates deposits inside due to high rigidity water, it will become too heavy and stop working properly.

The problem may be due to contamination of the drain valve. It’s just that dirt in the form of rust from old pipes or silt has accumulated between the rubber element and the seat.

In this case, you won’t have to change anything; just remove the cover, lift the cuff and clean everything under it with a rag. But if the rubber is worn out or aged, then it will definitely need to be replaced.

You may also be interested in the information on how to replace discussed in our article.

Before installing the valve inside the tank, it must be secured to the bowl. The design and layout of the toilet cistern are such that after installing the internal mechanisms, it will be problematic to reach the tightening bolts.

First, you should install and fasten the ceramic tank on the edge of the toilet bowl, and only then install all the devices for supplying/discharging water in it.

Repair of the float valve is carried out in the following order:

Image gallery

Malfunctions in the operation of the float valve of the flush tank are most often associated with damage to the membrane or valve. In order to replace the damaged element, unscrew the device

To “get” to the membrane or valve, we disassemble the valve head

If the membrane is torn, it will have to be replaced. We go with her to the store to buy exactly the same one. It happens that malfunctions in the operation of the faucet are associated only with the appearance of sediment on the parts, then we don’t change anything, just clean it with a brush soaked in vinegar

Instead of the damaged float valve head, we install a new element with a membrane. We put the device in its normal place, if necessary, set the level

Step 1: Unscrewing the float valve from the tank wall

Step 2: Disassembling the float head

Step 3: Determine membrane damage

Step 4: Install the new diaphragm head

Adjusting the water level

If water is supplied from the side, then the maximum level in the tank is regulated by changing the length of the spoke. It is at its end that the float is attached. In old and many new models, the role of this lever is performed by a thick brass wire.

You just need to bend it in the middle so that the float moves down or up. The higher it ends up being, the larger the volume of the tank will be filled.

However, now metal is increasingly being replaced with plastic. But it will not be possible to bend the plastic elements at the desired angle; they may simply break.

In this design, the float must be moved along the axis of the plastic pin, thereby increasing or decreasing the lever arm. The farther the float device is from the valve, the more water will flow into the tank.

Image gallery

In order to adjust the position of the float, remove the tank button, then the lid. Looking for an adjusting bolt and nut

We loosen the nut of the adjusting bolt, change the position of the float in accordance with the level we need, fix the result by tightening the nut with pliers

By pulling the flush mechanism rod, we check its operation and monitor the level to which the tank is filled after changing the position of the float

The level of water that has accumulated in the tank should be below the drain hole. If it is higher and water spills out of the hole, change the position of the float again

Step 1: Prepare to Adjust the Float Position

Step 2: Adjusting the float position with the nut

Step 3: Checking the operation of the flush device

Step 4: Change the level based on actual results

The float arm in toilet models with bottom water supply is located vertically. Here the water level is much easier to regulate.

The float element simply needs to be moved up/down and fixed at the desired height with the clamps or nuts provided for this purpose.

To simplify adjustment of the float position, some mechanisms have threaded connection on a rod or a rotating block to adjust the position of this “displacer”

The main problem when making adjustments is not changing the position of the float, but the need to remove the toilet tank lid. A drain button is attached to it, which in many models is rigidly connected to the drain mechanism.

To avoid breaking anything, this structure should be disassembled extremely carefully. First you need to carefully unscrew the clamping ring of the button. And only after this will it be possible to move the lid without fear.

Have you ever had an unfortunate toilet lid break? You can try to fix it yourself. In this article we looked at how to do this step by step.

If, with the float in the upper position, water still continues to flow into the tank, then the problem lies in the inlet valve. It will have to be disassembled and cleaned or completely replaced

Almost all the working elements of the flush cistern mechanism in the toilet are now made of plastic rather than metal. Because of this, they often break.

In stores, plumbing supplies are sold as ready-made designs drainage and supply, as well as their individual components for repair. In some situations it is cheaper to replace only part of the device, while in others it is easier to replace the entire assembly.

Photo instructions for replacing the device

For home craftsmen who want to completely replace a damaged drainage device, the following photo instructions will help them in their work:

Image gallery

We turn off the water supply, then drain all the water from the tank. Unscrew the button or remove the drain lever, remove the tank lid

In order to remove the broken drain mechanism, turn it 1/4 turn counterclockwise

We determine the cause of the malfunction in the drainage system. If it is due to damage to the valve or the appearance of mineral deposits on it, clean the valve or replace it with a new one

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How to remove a plug from a sewer.

Toilet design

The most important parts in the design of a toilet are a seat with a lid, a tank, a bowl and fittings, and a water flushing device. There are options for toilets without a tank, where instead of a tank you use drain valve. There are varieties of toilets with a cistern, which is located separately; with a tank that is installed on the floor (it’s called a compact). Tanks located separately require additional installation connecting pipe between the bowl and, accordingly, the tank. Early toilet designs required mounting the tank at a height of at least 2 meters so that the water could reach a sufficiently high speed. This design was later replaced by compact toilets that were easier to install, repair and maintain. There are types of toilets in which the tank is installed hidden. In this case, the flushing device is invisible.

During production, toilet bowls are cast so that the open part of the bowl gradually turns into a siphon located in the depths.

A siphon is needed to provide a water or hydraulic seal for gases that form and accumulate in the sewer system. The tank is designed to accumulate a certain amount of water.

Toilet cisterns are usually made of ceramic, but free-standing cisterns can be made of cast iron, plastic, steel or any other waterproof material. A water supply mechanism and a flushing device are mounted in the tank. To fill the tank, a float valve was invented, with the help of which the flow of water is blocked when the required level is reached.

Types of flushing

The advantage of a horizontal flush is that the back wall of the toilet is better cleaned under high water pressure.

Toilets are produced with various devices flushing water. For example, a siphon drain is used in high-mounted tanks. In it, when draining the water, after releasing the lever, the water continues to flow. This device is very noisy. Nowadays, water drainage mechanisms are very common, in which it is possible to drain both the entire volume of water and part of this volume. Typically, a toilet tank holds 6-8 liters of water. There are types of dual flush tanks - 3 liters and 6 liters. There is an option for a tank with an intermittent flush, when the user can personally stop the flow of water at any time convenient for him. Push-button and electronic water flushing systems have been designed.

The most common form with a sloped back wall, it is easier to clean.

There are additional requirements for the device regarding flush quality. For example, the effectiveness of flushing is determined toilet paper and even the degree of flush quality on the inner surface of the bowl. Important has a water supply device: the lower water supply system is quieter and safer. Let's take a closer look at all the toilet models on the market. Nowadays toilets are produced in wall-hung, wall-hung or floor options. Floor standing toilets are divided into toilets with a tank, separately standing toilets, wall-mounted toilets and wall-mounted toilets.

Wall-hung toilets mean that there is a hidden tank in the wall or a flushing system without a tank. If a flush system without a tank is used, the water is flushed directly from the water supply.

Horizontal flush

Diagram of the “Bell” drain barrel.

Toilets are produced with horizontal, vertical or inclined flush. Horizontal flush toilets are the most common type of toilet in Europe. The outlet of this type of toilet is located at the back of the bowl. These toilets are popular mainly in Europe, including Russia, Ukraine and Belarus. This is due to the fact that the laying of sewer pipes in these countries was carried out, as a rule, along floors, along walls and partitions. Therefore, toilets with horizontal flush and outlet are installed against the wall at an angle of 90 degrees to it. The toilet flush pipe is connected to the sewer pipe by a special coupling. These toilet models are mounted to the floor through holes in the lower part of the bowl pedestal using screws or screws with dowels. Horizontal flush toilets are very often used in cases where the sewage system is provided in the wall.

It is impossible to imagine a comfortable home without a well-equipped toilet room, in which the toilet occupies a central place. A significant part of this familiar item for us is the cistern. It seems like an absolutely unsightly container, which, by the way, is not always visible - sometimes it is built into the wall. However, as soon as the flush mechanism for the toilet becomes unusable, we immediately understand the importance of this item - a real disaster occurs in the house.

The principle of operation of a mechanical flush

A toilet without a well-thought-out flushing system would functionally turn into an ordinary pot (or a chamber vase), which would have to be emptied sooner or later. Flush tap water frees us from unnecessary actions and makes the procedure of visiting the toilet quite comfortable.

One of the outdated models of the flush tank perfectly demonstrates the principle of operation: pressure on the lever - release of water - automatic opening of the filling valve - drawing in water - closing the valve

Water from pipes flexible hose enters the drain tank, which is equipped with two mechanisms - filling and draining. Filling equipment allows water to accumulate in the tank, but only to a certain level, then the supply valve closes.

The drain fittings begin to function when we press the button (pull the chain or lever). A predetermined portion of water is poured into the toilet bowl at high speed, flushing all its contents into the toilet bowl. sewer pipe. As you can see, the principle of operation of the flush tank is simple and is based on the alternate action of shut-off valves.

It is not surprising that young children cannot answer the question: what is a cistern? They don't even suspect that this device is hidden behind the wall above the toilet.

So, let's try to understand the structure that is inside the tank - it just refers to those things that are Everyday life We don't pay any attention at all.

Components of the cistern

Knowing well the structure of the toilet cistern, you can quickly repair it or, at least, purchase the failed parts yourself.

filling valve

Its purpose is to regulate the water level in the tank and supply it as it decreases. required amount. Once upon a time, a basic water level indicator - a float - was invented, and it turned out to be such a successful invention that it is still an indispensable part of the fittings.

The original device looked like this: a brass rocker arm with a float at one end and a valve with a rubber gasket at the other that shuts off the water. Modern design changed a little, but the principle of operation remained the same. The drain diagram clearly shows the interaction of all parts of the mechanism.

Details of the design of the drain tank: 1 – filling valve; 2 – pear in a single block with overflow; 3 – handle (traction); 4 – float; 5 – water level

The float began to move vertically, and not positioned horizontally, as before. Water began to flow into the tank faster, since the hole is completely open, and the shut-off valve does not close it gradually, but completely, but at the very end of the set. Another difference is that the valve is located at the bottom, and not at the side.

Drain and overflow system

All the latest modifications have come from one original version - the pear system. A more “ancient” design of the toilet cistern was equipped with a bulb made of soft rubber, which hermetically closed the drain hole. As soon as you pulled the lever, the water rushed down noisily.

A sample of a basic device for a toilet flush cistern, where the filling mechanism is equipped plastic float on a rocker, and the drainage system is a traditional rubber bulb

Now the drainage device looks different. This is a fitting assembly connected to the filling and overflow system. It begins to function after pressing the button located in the lid. The widespread concern for saving water has led to another innovation - the button consists of two parts; By choosing one of them, you can provide a small or large drain.

The fittings for the cistern consist of plastic parts and rubber gaskets. In the event of a breakdown, you can purchase the entire set or one of the parts separately at a plumbing store.

The drainage mechanism is combined with an overflow - insurance against overfilling of the tank. If there is excess water, it does not pour out, but goes straight into the sewer. According to experts, German drain fittings are of higher quality; in the absence of them, Polish ones are used, which, moreover, cost much less.

Classification of toilet cisterns

There are several divisions into groups, and in one of them the classification is based specifically on the features of the toilet cistern mechanism.

So, there can be two locations of a button or lever:

• Lateral. It is most often used for cisterns that are mounted not on the toilet shelf, but on the wall - at a certain height. With this device, water is drained by pulling the chain.
• Upper. The button that activates the drainage system is installed exactly in the middle of the tank lid.

The flush button for the cistern installed in the wall exists separately from it and is mounted directly above the toilet, being an example of a modern aesthetic approach

According to the material of manufacture:

• Cast iron. Until now, cast iron in our country is considered something very practical, so many people keep their rare treasures and do not want to exchange them for modern ones - more convenient and beautiful.
• Earthenware. The most popular because they are part of the compact toilet. Familiar models, easily mounted on the toilet shelf, have many designs that differ in shape and color.
• Plastic. Containers that are built into the wall and therefore have an unusual, flatter shape.

Among the simple, economical sanitaryware you can find real masterpieces made in a variety of styles - from country to modern. True, the cost of these products starts from 20 thousand rubles

By installation method:

• Top mount. The tank is mounted high on the wall, exactly above the toilet, and communicates with the toilet through a pipe. This method fastenings are outdated, however, there are several models of this type on sale, since the demand for them does not stop.
• Wall installation. Modern way, requiring a complete redo of at least one wall, because the tank will be hidden inside it. It seems that there is more space in the toilet, although the erected wall “steals” some part of the area.
• The tank is on the toilet shelf. The most common model, familiar to everyone. The good thing is that in the event of a breakdown, any malfunction can be quickly repaired.

Toilets with a cistern suspended high from the ceiling are not suitable for every interior, but they will look great in toilet room furnished in retro style

The flush cistern is an integral part of the compact toilet. The earthenware pair is popular due to the variety of budget designs: for 4-5 thousand rubles you can purchase an excellent set along with fittings

In our next article you will learn about the reasons for the appearance of condensation on the tank and how to eliminate them:.

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