From the author: Hi all! As you know, all people are divided into two types - those who like to live in apartments and those who like private houses. So, my friend Ivan belongs to the second, for which he paid. When he and his wife bought their living space, he understood absolutely nothing about renovation, but the building needed improvements, and there was no money for professional builders did not have.
I had to learn a lot, but now Ivan can do all the construction work and even lay the floors in a private house with his own hands. He learned most of the useful information from best friend(that is, me). If you also want to furnish your home yourself and save on labor costs, then you have come to the right place. Let's get started.
During home construction, the question always arises: “What flooring is best?” Indeed, under any circumstances, it must satisfy such requirements as the creation healthy conditions residence and operational safety. The floor must be, first of all: smooth, durable, hygienic and non-slip. There are several types of flooring:
- Wooden floors are considered a favorite among residents of private sectors, since wood is not only environmentally friendly pure material, but also, compared to concrete, warm;
- for those who prefer strength to warmth, concrete floors are suitable;
- Floating and screed floors are just gaining popularity, but I think that over time they will outshine even wood floors, because they only take 1 day to install.
Before choosing one of these coatings, I recommend taking a closer look at each one individually.
Several ways to lay a wooden floor
It is possible to build a wooden floor even without the help of specialists; to do this, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the technology of laying it on different types grounds. Wooden covering comes in one or two layers (with a subfloor). If we talk about the advantages of wood flooring, we would like to note its environmental friendliness and ease of installation. Aesthetically pleasing, practical and durable, wood flooring can enhance any home.
Installation of coating on support pillars
The second name for this installation is “floating floor”. This type of coating is produced mainly when the connection of walls with joists is impossible. The work proceeds according to the following scheme:
Source: http://otdelkaexp.ru
- We begin by forming holes in the underground, into which we will install brick supports in the future. We cover the bottom with a 20-centimeter layer of bulk material, for example, gravel, sand or crushed stone, fill it with water and carefully compact everything.
- We begin laying brick supports on the compacted material (it is advisable to use red brick). There is also a second option: it is necessary to install reinforcement into the constructed formwork and pour a mixture of cement and gravel. If you decide to form the supports using the second method, then the cross-section should be 50*50 cm. Check the height with a level and adjust if necessary.
- We insert anchors or threaded rods into the pillars from above to a depth of 15 cm (beams will be attached to them). In a small home the floor is on support pillars can be done almost the same as in a spacious one. The only difference is that the pillars are placed only around the perimeter of the room and the beams are chosen to be more massive.
- After completing the preparation of the pillars, we lay 3-4 layers of roofing felt on them. It will act as waterproofing.
- We make holes in the beams for the mounting pins.
- We place logs or beams on our roofing material, hook them onto studs and adjust them with a laser or water level. After laying the base, we secure the lining to the logs using nails. We also need to fix the logs themselves on the posts using nuts and washers.
- We cut off the excess height of the studs using a grinder.
- We fill the surface of the underground with expanded clay sand, a layer of 20 cm. I recommend using expanded clay, as it perfectly insulates floors.
Source: http://izolexpert.ru
If you decide to make two-layer floors, then you must immediately lay floorboards on the beams, and completely fill the underground with expanded clay sand, leaving no more than 10 cm between layers.
Installation of rough covering
The subfloor can be installed using several methods. The method is selected depending on the insulation material used in the work. If it is slag, then the coating must be made continuous, from floorboards that are attached to the lower cut of the beams.
- We cover all the cracks with clay, and after it dries, pour insulation into the cells.
- We attach a layer of vapor barrier film to the bottom boards and beams and lay thin plywood.
- Next, we put insulation and again cover everything with a vapor barrier, fix it to the beams with brackets.
- We attach 10*3 cm logs to the beams, which will become a support for thick plywood or floorboards.
You can clearly see how to make a subfloor in the video:
Installation of wood covering on the ground
Installation of wooden coverings can be done not only on support pillars, but also on the ground. However, the scheme of work here will look different:
- We compact the soil well and pour a 20 cm thick cushion of gravel, crushed stone or sand on it.
- Compacting bulk material and lay roofing felt or any other material for waterproofing on it. The approach to the walls must be at least 10 cm.
- On top of the waterproofing layer we place a support for the beams on the mortar (you can use concrete blocks or bricks). The distance between the beams must be at least 60 cm so that insulation can be placed there.
- In the free spaces between the beams we place insulation (foam, mineral wool and etc.).
- We install on supports made of blocks or bricks wooden beams, level them and fix them with a corner.
- Whatever coating you choose, it is better to additionally insulate the surface with mineral wool slabs.
- We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film and lay the floorboards, securing them with nails.
- In order for the floor to be ventilated, we leave gaps of 1-1.5 cm near all walls.
Installing a wooden floor on a concrete base
If as a basis under wood covering protrudes or screed, logs can be laid directly on it. When the floor needs to be raised by 10-20 cm, installation is done on threaded studs. Don’t try to save on logs - the reliability of the entire coating and the duration of its operation depend on them.
Let me immediately note this point - on a concrete base there must be rough coating. But this should no longer scare you, because we already figured it out earlier. So, installation is carried out according to this scheme:
- We mark the placement of the logs (the distance between them will be 60 cm).
- On the lines marked with color, we put dots at intervals of 30–40 cm and in these places we make holes into which we insert the retaining pins necessary to hold the beams, in which we will also make slits.
- Use a level to adjust the horizontal level.
- We drive the nuts screwed onto the studs into the drilled holes. If there is any excess left, you can cut it off with a sander.
- Now you can install the subfloor (see above) and decorative coating.
Installing joists on the screed
It is not at all difficult to install logs on a concrete screed, especially if you have all the necessary equipment.
Very important stage home improvement is the choice of suitable flooring and its correct installation. One of the most preferred options is flooring wooden floor. Wood is an environmentally friendly, “breathable” material with excellent performance and properties. If you have the proper knowledge, you can handle the installation of such a coating yourself.
Select suitable wood for flooring. At this stage, you need to take into account the climatic conditions of the region, the level of planned loads on the surface, the characteristics of the operation of the premises and, of course, your financial capabilities.
In small living spaces, it is best to install softwood flooring. This material is sold at a relatively affordable price, while being distinguished by fairly high strength and durability.
Among representatives of the middle and higher price ranges, give preference to oak. Aspen wood is also used for flooring. This material is especially suitable for installing floors in children's rooms and bedrooms.
For self-flooring For coatings in residential premises, only dry wood can be used. Problem raw boards The problem is that during the drying process they decrease in size, which is why unsightly and completely unnecessary cracks appear in the coating.
When purchasing material, make sure that it does not have any noticeable defects such as splits, third-party stains, cracks, etc. Don’t buy this kind of wood even at a good discount.
Perform a preliminary calculation to determine required quantity material. To do this, you just need to know the area of the premises. Buy the material itself with a 10-15 percent reserve.
For flooring, it is recommended to use a board with a length of 200 cm. It is highly desirable that all boards offered to you be included in one batch. This way you will be sure that all the purchased material was manufactured and processed in accordance with the equal conditions. Therefore, texture, color, etc. external characteristics the boards will be approximately the same.
Flooring is best done using edged and tongue-and-groove boards. This material does not require additional grinding, which will allow you to significantly save time on installation work.
Wooden flooring can be done using several different materials, namely:
- solid wood boards;
- solid parquet boards;
- glued parquet boards. Has the same appearance and is practically not inferior in performance characteristics to solid parquet boards, but costs less;
- parquet
Preparing for flooring
The flooring is done in two layers. First the base is laid, then the wood itself.
There are two main ways to install flooring: laying it on the ground on joists and on floor beams. When choosing the appropriate method, consider the characteristics of a particular room and your personal preferences.
Before installation, carefully treat all wooden elements with antifungal and fireproofing impregnations.
The base of the constructed floor must be waterproofed. For moisture insulation, it is convenient to use penofol or polyethylene. Penofol simultaneously provides high-quality hydro- and noise-insulating properties, therefore it is more preferable.
Base installation
The functions of the base for self-flooring can be performed by logs, plywood and concrete. Familiarize yourself with the features of the methods and choose the most suitable one for your case.
Foundation on joists
Fastening the flooring to joists is the most popular option for arranging the floor. This design allows you to easily and effectively hide uneven floors and lay various communications under the base without any problems.
The base is assembled from 10x5 cm timber. In low rooms it is better to abandon this method - the finished structure will take about 8-10 cm in height.
Before you start installing the base, you should bring the logs into the room and let them sit for a couple of days so that the wood material adapts to the surrounding conditions.
Select the lag fastening step in accordance with the dimensions of the boards used. It is important that the boards do not sag in the future.
First step. Lay it down opposite walls one lag at the same level.
Second step. Stretch tight parallel threads between the laid joists. The distance between the threads depends on the thickness of the flooring boards. If your boards are more than 3 cm thick, stretch the threads at a distance of about 80 cm, but if the flooring elements are thinner than 3 cm, then the threads should be tensioned at a distance of no more than 60 cm. In the case of using boards thicker than 4 cm, you can increase the distance between the threads up to 100 cm.
Third step. Install logs based on stretched threads. Adjust their mounting height using wooden wedges. It is important that all logs are installed strictly at the same level.
The logs must be fastened to the base. If the base in your house is made of wood, fix it with screws or nails; if it is made of concrete, use dowels or anchors.
Fourth step. Fill the space between adjacent joists with thermal insulation material. You can lay polystyrene foam, mineral wool, expanded clay, etc.
During the flooring process, boards will need to be attached to each established lag. First, you need to prepare holes in the material for self-tapping screws. An electric drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter will help you with this.
An excellent base for future high-quality flooring can be made from plywood. High quality plywood is almost not subject to deformation during use of the floor. The material is characterized by high strength and reliability.
If necessary, the floor on the plywood sheets in question can be quickly and easily removed. When laying the base, you do not have to carry out any additional work - the flooring is mounted directly on the plywood sheets.
First step. Place sheets of plywood on the base and, using ordinary chalk, draw a diagram of the future arrangement of the elements. Based on this marking, you will install the logs, and then lay sheets of plywood on them.
Second step. Install logs. Optimal step– 400 mm. Level the joists using pads made from the same plywood. All elements must be installed strictly at the same level. Attach the aligned joists to the base. Select fasteners in accordance with the base material.
Third step. Glue it finished design glue so that the floor does not crack in the future.
Fourth step. Cover the system with rolled glassine or other material with similar properties.
Fifth step. Lay down the plywood. The edges of each sheet should lie on the joists. Place the plywood sheets themselves with a small gap, no more than 1-2 mm. To fasten sheets, use self-tapping screws - about 8-9 fasteners per sheet. Sand the joints thoroughly.
If desired, you can align concrete base using a screed and lay the flooring directly on the floor, without installing an additional base.
In such a situation, it is important that the boards cannot come into direct contact with the concrete. Ground mastic or ordinary foamed polyethylene will perfectly cope with the functions of the intermediate layer. When using polyethylene, place insulation sheets with an overlap of 10-15 cm.
First step. Start attaching boards from any wall. Leave a 15mm gap between the wall of the room and the starting row boards. Once the decking is complete, you will cover it with baseboard. Drive self-tapping screws or nails at a slight angle, trying to deepen the heads of the fasteners into the wood by about 2 mm.
1 - lag; 2 - bracket; 3 - wedges; 4 - doboynik
Second step. After installing the first flooring board, step back about 50 mm from the edge and drive staples into the bars with an insignificant gap, and then insert a thin strip into the gap that appears after this.
Third step. Drive a wooden wedge slightly larger than the gap left between the installed rail and the fixed brackets. Thanks to the wedge, the edges of the laid boards will be pressed as tightly as possible, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. The staples can be removed after fixing the boards with screws or nails.
A - construction bracket; b - wedge compression with a movable bracket; c - rack compression
1 - bracket; 2 - wedges; 3 - lags; 4 - spur; 5 — emphasis; 6 — movable bracket; 7 - clamping screw; 8 — stops; 9 - gear wheel with ratchet - pawl; 10 — handle; 11 - screw with stop
That is, you need to work according to this scheme: lay a couple of boards, press them with a batten and a wedge, and secure them with self-tapping screws. Lay the entire flooring according to this pattern. Before attaching each subsequent board, it must be further compacted using a mallet.
Fourth step. Sand the joints of the boards.
Fifth step. Hide gaps between walls and boards using floor skirting boards.
Sixth step. Apply the finishing coat, e.g. parquet board or any other material at your discretion. You can do without finishing flooring, and simply paint the boards, coat them with varnish or other composition.
Wood is a quality and durable material with excellent performance and properties. However, in order for the flooring to fully demonstrate its properties, you, as the performer, are required to strictly follow the instructions and follow the recommendations received at each stage of the work. Follow this simple guide and everything will work out.
Good luck!
Video - DIY wooden flooring
It's no secret that the comfort of living in a home largely depends on high-quality floors. Installation of the basement ceiling is carried out using various materials: wood, concrete, special mixtures using self-leveling floor technology. Floors in a private home must be smooth, durable, retain heat and have aesthetic qualities.
Types of floors
The question of what to make the floor of a house from often arises when building your own home. Therefore, there is a need for a detailed study of the types of floors, taking into account their advantages and disadvantages.
Wooden covering
Wood floors look impressive, they meet environmental requirements, combine practicality and long service life, and allow for repairs as necessary.
Installation of a wooden floor requires the presence the following materials: timber with a thickness of at least 15 cm, edged boards with a thickness of at least 2.5 cm, waterproofing and vapor barrier elements, insulation. Timber and boards must be taken dry, their humidity should not exceed 12%.
Polyethylene film or roofing felt is suitable as waterproofing. There are a huge variety of vapor barrier membranes on the market. The insulation can be mineral wool slabs, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam, or expanded clay. You will also need nails and screws, metal angles, a hammer and a screwdriver.
Installation of a wooden covering goes through several stages. The first thing to do is to carefully level the ground, on which a sand cushion is then created. It is necessary to lay waterproofing on it. If roofing felt is used, the overlap between the strips is at least 15 cm.
Next, a strapping beam is installed along the perimeter of the house, to which, using metal corners logs are attached. All bars are pre-treated protective compounds. The distance between the joists should be equal to the width of the insulation. If mineral wool slabs are used, they are installed by surprise. This must be taken into account when installing logs.
Then a vapor barrier membrane is stretched over the joists and insulation overlapping, the joints of which are glued with special tape. The final stage involves installing the boards. They are also recommended to be treated with protective compounds. The boards themselves should be nailed as tightly as possible to each other.
Note! Kitchen in a private house - 100 photos of design and layout ideas
When the wooden floor is ready, it can be varnished or linoleum laid on it.
Concrete floors
Most often, concrete floors in a private house are installed in utility rooms, but this option is also possible in residential areas. The floor is poured according to the following scheme.
If there is a need, a small pit 10 cm deep is first dug in the area of future filling. Then a sand cushion at least 5 cm thick is made, which is carefully compacted. A reinforcing mesh is laid out, beacons are placed, which will help you monitor the evenness of the surface.
Concrete will reach its nominal strength in 28 days, after which it will be possible to begin finishing. Options for such finishing are tiles or linoleum on a thick base.
Linoleum is used in living rooms oh, the tiles are laid in the hallway, bathroom and toilet, in the kitchen. Linoleum is glued to concrete with special mastics, or it simply lies freely, secured along the walls with plinths. A special adhesive is used to lay the tiles.
Self-leveling coating
To install such a floor in a private home, use special mixtures, which self-level after application. This is one of the most popular methods of installing floors in country houses. The cost of a self-leveling floor directly depends on the manufacturer and brand of the mixture.
In addition, there are flooring options with a pattern or color, which is also reflected in the price. The base of self-leveling floors is a concrete screed, the surface of which is treated with special primers to improve adhesion. Using a drill with a special attachment, dilution is carried out bulk mixture water. The solution is applied to the primed base in small portions and rolled out with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.
The finished floor is covered for better strength gain plastic film, if this is specified in the instructions for the mixture. After the solution has completely hardened, it can be coated polyurethane varnish to add shine.
The coating will be ready for full use in a week, and you can move on it within 12 hours after pouring. The peculiarity of this floor is that it is often used as the main one. But you can also lay carpet on top, lay parquet or laminate.
If you have the financial opportunity and the floors are being made in a residential area, then it is best to use three-dimensional or decorative self-leveling floors. To do this, you need to think about what kind of pattern will be placed on the floor, and then contact a company that specializes in these issues. She will take a photo of the floor in the house, printing it on a banner of the required size. Subsequently, using a special technology, this banner will be installed on the floor, making the room stylistically very attractive.
Warm floor technology
The most convenient and practical option- this is the installation of a heated floor in a private house. There are floors with water and electrical system. Electric floors are popular in non- large rooms apartments or country houses. The main condition for installation electric floors is the presence of a power supply line capable of operating under heavy load.
The only drawback of an electric floor heating system is that it consumes more electricity.
In the case of floor heating in large rooms, in which there is also no central heating, it makes sense to use water floors, since they can significantly save energy.
The water floor as a heat source has water heated by a boiler, circulating through pipes built into the floor. The role of heating elements is assigned metal-plastic pipes(there are options for using plastic pipes). They are laid on the subfloor and connected through a distribution mechanism to the supply and return manifolds. The water circulating in the pipes has a temperature of +35-45°C. More high temperatures would make the floor uncomfortable and subsequently lead to its destruction.
A water heating system has a number of advantages:
- heating costs are reduced due to the low temperature of the coolant;
- as an independent unit makes it possible effective use living space (in the absence of radiators);
- economical compared to the system electric heating floors, despite high installation costs
What kind of flooring to install in a private home is always decided on an individual basis in each case. In this case, it is necessary to balance the purpose of the floors, their price and the quality of the materials used. Knowing the intricacies of all the options, the advantages and disadvantages of this or that type of flooring, you can ultimately achieve a unique result, while getting the best floors for yourself.
Photo of floors in a private house
It is quite possible to lay a wooden floor with your own hands if you first study the instructions for carrying out this work. Plank flooring has always been more popular than floors made from other materials, as it differs from them in its natural warmth, environmental friendliness and ability to create a specific, especially healthy microclimate in living spaces.
Most often, coniferous wood is chosen for flooring in the house. Mostly larch is used, which shows particular resistance to both temperature changes and high humidity. Thanks to the natural antiseptic qualities of this tree, destructive fungal formations do not occur on it, which means that processes of rotting and destruction are excluded.
Floor requirements
Wooden flooring must meet certain requirements, without which the floors will not last long and will not be comfortable for residents. These criteria can safely include:
- Effective sound insulation and thermal insulation of premises.
- Reliability and durability of wooden covering.
- Wear resistance, and therefore durability of the floor.
- Moisture-resistant and hygienic – cleaning the floor should not be particularly difficult.
- The aesthetics of wooden flooring - it should become a decoration of the room.
- Ease of installation work.
To achieve all the mentioned qualities of a wooden floor, you need to choose the right material for its construction.
Material selection criteria
In order for the floors to serve for a long time without the boards drying out or deforming, when choosing wood you need to pay attention to following parameters material:
- Grade. For finishing coating it is better to choose the highest or first grade of board, and for rough flooring you usually buy 2 ÷ 3 grades. If the finished floor will be covered with paint, then second-rate material will be quite suitable for it.
Its quality will directly depend on the grade of wood. Even when purchasing material premium, you need to pay attention to the presence of possible defects, such as chips, cracks and knots - they should either be completely absent or be in a minimal quantity.
- It is very important to pay attention to the dryness of the wood. It must have a certain humidity, otherwise, over the years, cracks will appear between the boards, and the floorboards themselves will begin to deform. Humidity for finishing boards cannot exceed 12%, and for rough boards - no higher than 17%.
- The length of the bars and boards should ideally correspond to the length and width of the room where the floor will be laid.
- The standard thickness of floorboards is 120 × 25 mm and 100 × 25 mm. This parameter is selected depending on the step of laying the logs on which the boards will be attached. By existing technology these distances must be selected in accordance with the data given in the table:
| Step between joists in mm | Floorboard thickness in mm |
|---|---|
| 300 | 20 |
| 400 | 24 |
| 500 | 30 |
| 600 | 35 |
| 700 | 40 |
| 800 | 45 |
| 900 | 50 |
| 1000 | 55 |
Buying any construction material, after carried out necessary calculations, you need to add 15% in reserve to this amount - this rule has been verified experienced builders, so it is recommended to follow it.
Wood preparation
Before installing joists and floorboards, they must be prepared. Typically, flooring material is sold already planed, but if burrs are revealed during inspection, they must be removed using an electric planer.
Their installation begins only after the material has completely dried.
Choosing a floor design
Knowing all the requirements for the covering material, you need to decide on the design of the floor, since each specific case will have its own option, depending on the conditions under which the installation will take place.
There are several main types of wooden floor designs:
- The floors are on joists laid on floor beams. In this case, plywood or boards can be used for the finished floor.
- "Floating" construction - boards laid on a concrete base, but not attached to it .
- Covering fixed to logs laid on the ground.
These methods of installing a wooden floor have become the most popular, as they give creative freedom to the craftsman, who can make his own adjustments to the design. But, one way or another, for each room it is necessary to choose the only option that suits it to a greater extent.
Floor beam system
- Joists, as a basis for the floor, can be fixed to floor beams, which, in turn, are laid on a columnar or strip foundation. This is permissible if the room where the floor is installed has a width of no more than 2.5 ÷ 3 m.
- To create air gap, floor beams are often raised above the ground to a certain height, laying them on the top waterproofed foundation surface. They can be rigidly attached to it or simply placed securely on top. The second option is chosen if the foundation has not yet had time to shrink, and when it occurs, it will not drag down the floor system, which will certainly begin to deform from such an impact.
- If the room is large (more than 3 meters), columns can be additionally installed between the walls, which will create rigidity for the floor system. For all support structures Waterproofing must be laid under the floor beams in order to wooden parts served for the longest possible period.
What should be the thickness of the joists and floor beams? This mainly depends on the free span width (the distance between adjacent support points). Typically based on the following indicators (see table):
- After the floor beams are installed, the logs need to be secured to them. The distance between them, as already mentioned, is calculated according to the thickness of the selected flooring boards.
- When arranging such a “floating” floor structure, the logs, and then the boards, must be located at a distance of at least 12 ÷ 15 mm from the walls, that is, be independent from them. A material is laid into the opening between the walls and the floor system that will not allow cold air to enter the room, will allow the wood to “breathe”, and will expand freely when temperature and humidity changes occur.
- When laying logs consisting of two separate sections, their overlap by 400 ÷ 500 mm should be on support posts or on a beam. The logs must be leveled to the building level; if necessary, small pieces of wood are placed under the logs to achieve an ideal horizontal level.
- After the logs are installed and fixed, it is recommended to install a subfloor, for which low-quality boards are quite suitable. To install them, cranial blocks measuring 30 × 50 mm are screwed from below along the entire length of the lag.
- Subfloor boards are not always secured to the slabs; usually they are simply laid tightly together. Lay on top of the subfloor vapor barrier film, securing it with staples to the joists and boards.
- A vapor barrier is placed tightly between the joists - this can be mineral wool in mats or rolls, as well as a dry backfill of expanded clay or slag.
- Another layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation. Its individual sheets are glued together with tape, and then the film is attached to the joists with staples.
- The top layer of vapor barrier is necessary to prevent dust and particles of insulation material from entering living spaces. Floorboards or thick plywood will then be laid on top of this entire floor system.
Prices for various types of timber
Joists fixed to concrete surface
Often, to create a layer for the floor in apartments, a wooden floor on joists is also installed on a concrete base. Here the whole difficulty lies in leveling the joists on the surface, especially if it is planned to raise the wooden covering a few centimeters above the concrete slab.
If the apartment is located above the first floor, then most often the logs are laid out, leveled, and then secured to the concrete base using anchors.
In both the first and second options, the logs are drilled through. To raise the logs above the base, various metal and plastic elements are used. In this case, the photo shows the studs. They allow you to raise and lower the logs on one side or the other, leveling them. The excess section of the stud, after bringing the lag to the desired height, is cut off using a grinder.
In each of the options, insulation can be laid on the concrete between the joists, which will add thermal insulation to the coating and also help muffle noise, both from the lower apartment and from the rooms where joists are installed under the wooden floor. Mineral wool, polystyrene foam or can be used as insulation material.
Flooring on concrete surface
Sometimes a wooden floor is laid on a concrete floor without the use of joists. Floorboards or plywood are used as covering. It is advisable to lay a thin insulating material under such a floor - most often foamed polyethylene is used for this, but it is better to choose one that has a foil coating.
Separate sheets of backing material are fastened together with tape to create a solid coating - it will make the floor warmer and muffle noise. If plywood is used for flooring, you need to remember that a decorative covering must be laid on top of it. Floors made from fairly thick boards will look respectable if they are covered with varnish, wax or high-quality paint.
Installation of floorboards
Selecting boards required thickness, it is important to determine right direction laying them on the floor. As many years of experience show, the best option for laying boards is considered to be in the direction natural light, that is, from the window. Therefore, you need to start planning the laying of the boards by marking and securing the joists.
Floorboards have different types of connections:
1. Connection using an insert-liner in the grooves of two boards.
2. Groove-tenon connection in the presence of tongue-and-groove boards.
3. Quarter connection.
The last type of connection is the easiest to install, so floorboards with this type of fastening are most often used. In addition, the “quarter” connection creates a single covering with almost imperceptible gaps between the boards, so it optimally retains heat in the room.
Boards can be attached to two methods of fastening:
- Nails or screws can be driven into a groove located on the side of the board at an angle of approximately 45 degrees, with the head recessed into the wood. Some craftsmen prefer to do the opposite, driving the screws at an angle into the edge of the tenon.
- In the second option, nails or screws are driven or screwed into the front plane of the board.
- When starting to install floorboards, you must step back 12 ÷ 15 mm from the wall. Later, a strip of insulation is placed in this gap, and the installed baseboard. It is necessary for the tree to be able to expand with changes in humidity and air temperature.
- The board is attached to the joists with nails 80 ÷ 120 mm or self-tapping screws 70 ÷ 100 mm. Hats are driven “under” hide it", later they are sealed with putty matched to the color of the wood.
- If insufficiently seasoned wood is used, then the laid floor requires a drying period, which lasts 6 ÷ 8 months. During this time, the coating will shrink and dry out, the gaps between the boards will increase, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out the process of relaying it. In this regard, during the initial laying of the flooring, all the floorboards are not completely nailed to the joists, but only the fifth to seventh board is attached. After drying the boards, they must be rearranged, pressed together as tightly as possible and nailed to the joists.
- If boards with a tongue-and-groove connection are selected, for a tighter connection, use a mallet, with which the tenons are driven into the grooves through the block. Craftsmen often use special clamps for this, especially in cases where, due to the slight curvature of the boards, installation involves coating the grooves and tenons with wood glue.
- For a tight connection last board When installed against a wall, temporary wooden wedges are used and driven between the wall and the board.
- The gap between the boards should not be wider than 1 mm. If the board is not installed in the groove completely, then most likely there is a burr or some kind of roughness left on the canvas, and this flaw must be removed and the tenon must be adjusted to the groove.
Find out, and also consider the causes of squeaking and methods of elimination, from our new article.
Video: laying floorboards using clamps
Flooring prices
Floor coverings
Treatment of the floor surface after final flooring
After the floor has been rebuilt and secured, its surface may need to be scraped. This process is carried out if, when the board dries, it becomes a little wobbly and the surface becomes uneven.
The starting varnish helps to identify insufficiently smooth areas on the surface of the boards, and therefore, after it dries, it is easier to find rough spots and carry out additional sanding.
After sanding, skirting boards are installed that will well hide the gaps between the wall and the floor boards. If, as a result of this operation, gaps remain between the floor and the baseboard, they are sealed with putty to match the color of the wood.
Now that the floor is prepared in this way, you can move on to finishing coating surfaces with wax, oil, varnish or paint.
The plank flooring is covered with a finishing compound not only to give it aesthetics and respectability, but also to protect it, and therefore ensure maximum long-term use.
Oil treatment
If the boards have a beautiful, pronounced textured pattern, then a special oil is often used to cover it. It makes the floors warmer, not as slippery as with coating, and also gives it antistatic properties. The oil penetrates the structure of the wood and reliably protects it from the penetration of moisture from the outside, practically repelling it.
Wood coated with oil is less susceptible to various damage, and existing flaws become virtually invisible. The oil does not clog the pores of the wood, preserving its naturalness, allowing the material to “breathe”, which creates a favorable microclimate in the living room.
Floors that are coated with oil must be protected from dust until it is completely absorbed. During operation, such a floor requires special care by special means. It is very important to remember that it is not recommended to place furniture with metal legs, as there is a risk of undesirable reactions, which may result in dark spots remaining on the wood.
Oiling floors is recommended in rooms with high humidity - bathrooms, terraces and kitchens. This coating is also good for a hallway or corridor, since boards impregnated with this substance are more resistant to abrasion.
There are compositions for floor coverings that do not consist of pure oil, but with the addition of liquid wax, which gives the floors a matte, soft shine. Pure oils are also applied to the surface of wood; they are well absorbed into the surface, are economical to apply and do not require a long wait to dry.
Floor oil can be colorless, or it can have different shades that make the wood darker or give it a special, pleasant and warm color.
The oil is applied in two or three steps. It can be rubbed in or applied with a brush, and its excess is immediately wiped off to avoid the formation of a film on top, which will create uneven coverage.
The oil composition can be applied hot and cold in several layers. The faster the wood absorbs oil, the more coats will need to be applied. The heated composition penetrates much faster and deeper into the pores of the wood, and this coating lasts much longer than with a cold application method.
Waxing the floor surface
Wax is most often combined with oil coating. So, sometimes waxing occurs with a composition that consists of natural beeswax And linseed oil. This coating protects floor surfaces well from scratches and dirt, as well as from moisture absorption, but will not protect the wood from cracking and intense mechanical stress. The wax coating gives the surface a pleasant matte shine and golden hue.
The wax is applied to the cleaned floor using a wide roller in several layers. The first of them must be very thin in order to be well absorbed into the surface. Next, the floor is sanded, and then it is covered with another layer of the compound and sanded again.
Wax combined with oil is an environmentally friendly coating material and is very good to use in children's rooms and adult bedrooms. Wood that has undergone this treatment has the ability to “breathe”, so the floors will last a long time and create a favorable microclimate in the room.
Varnishing a wooden floor
- Varnish coating can be applied by brush, roller or spatula room temperature, moderate humidity and absence of drafts.
- The first layer of nitro varnish is applied to the cleaned surface, which will serve as a kind of primer for the finishing layers of the composition. It is applied thin layer along the textured pattern of wood. If necessary, the primer can be applied in two layers.
- After the primer has dried, the surface is sanded well using sandpaper. After this, the floor is washed with soapy water, thoroughly wiped and dried.
- After this, they begin to apply finishing layers. There may be two or three of them, and each of them is dried and sanded.
Applying varnish to floors is a rather complex undertaking that requires careful selection of the composition for a specific type of wood. Therefore, if this particular method of processing a wooden floor is chosen, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist who will determine the amount of work and select necessary materials.
The varnish coating is quite fragile and easily damaged by mechanical stress, so it is not advisable to walk on it in thin heels or move furniture. In addition, varnishes are most often produced at chemical principles, which, clogging the pores of the wood, do not allow it to “breathe”.
Staining a Wood Floor
IN Lately Paint is rarely used to cover a wooden floor, but it still happens, especially in cases where a special interior style is chosen. In addition, paint is used in cases where it is necessary to cover up the not entirely attractive appearance of wood, since such a coating completely covers the surface of the floor. For such finishing You can choose paints on different bases: oil, enamel, nitrocellulose, as well as acrylic, water-dispersion and latex.
Water-based paints are preferable for residential premises, as they do not contain solvents and additives harmful to the human body. They are produced in different color shades, so there is always the opportunity to choose the one that is more suitable for a particular interior.
Enamels and other paints based on chemical solvents are also used for living rooms, but after applying them, the rooms require long-term ventilation, since these fumes can pose a threat to human health.
Before painting the floor with water-based compounds, the boards are coated with a special primer. For other coating materials, the base must be prepared using impregnating compositions, the main component of which is usually drying oil.
The paint can be applied in one, two layers or as a last resort, at three o'clok. It is recommended to choose the “golden mean”, since paint applied in a layer that is too thin will quickly begin to wear out, and if applied in a thick layer, on the contrary, it will peel off. Each coat of primer or paint must be thoroughly dry before the next one is applied.
It is described in great detail in the corresponding publication of our portal.
So, if you have the basic understanding of working with wood, and also have the necessary materials and tools, you can try laying floors from boards or plywood yourself. If you have questions, you can always seek clarification and advice from articles that will help solve any problem. And at the end of the article - one more thing interesting video using wood flooring technology.
Video: how to prepare and lay a wooden floor
The installation of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time and will need to be replaced. Using some impregnations, you can protect the wood from rotting. Chemical methods of protection are very effective and prevent the process of material deterioration. However wooden structure, soaked chemicals, cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that wood is chosen precisely because of this indicator, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between layers. The wooden covering should be secured using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.
A subfloor refers to certain bases that form an ideal surface for laying a finished floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed at the floor covering.
In wooden buildings, subfloors are made using three methods:
- wooden on joists;
- pouring concrete;
- use of plywood flooring.
Wooden floors on joists
IN wooden house the installation of a subfloor is no different from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only peculiarity is how the logs are attached:
- There is no need to attach logs to various wooden boards. Best option- strengthen them to the base or foundation grillage, retreating a couple of centimeters from all walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11cm on all sides of the log.
- Before laying the base, you should lay the bottom trim, which is made from a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. There is no need to rigidly strengthen them with strapping. You just need to fix them so that they do not wobble while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a distance of several centimeters from the walls.
If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before this, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. You must first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut out the dimensions required for the groove in the wood, which will be required for the supporting function.
Important: It is recommended to add about 2 cm to further expand the joists. It must be remembered that the laying of the logs and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the installation of the waterproofing layer is completed.
The standard steps between two logs are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, a choice is made of the lag section and effective load. For small sizes, the sections should be approximately 15x10, for heavy loads - 15x20, for medium loads - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load, if the beams have a small cross-section, then it is advisable to provide cross-sectional parameters of 30x40cm.
Installation of subfloors on joists
When the installation is done, you will need to do standard installation. It is performed in several stages:
- It is necessary to secure the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the joists from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial block with boards that are wider than the joists. They will need to be nailed either along or below the joists.
- The boards should be laid. They need to be placed on the cranial block, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
- Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it extends onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation and use a stapler for fastening.
- Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
- Vapor barrier. They are laid in the same way as waterproofing.
- Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, you only need to punch counter-battens along the joist on top of the vapor barrier.
- Coating. At the final stage it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. The logs must be separated from the wall by a 2cm gap. Insulation will then be placed in them.
On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Video description
Learn more about floor insulation in a wooden house in this video:
Plywood subfloors
The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has high hardness. Plywood is also used for floor coverings. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.
Plywood can be laid in one of two options:
- On a cement base. You will need to provide a horizontal and level base or use leveling posts.
- Attach to joists. The main thing is to position the logs correctly to ensure that the joint of the sheet falls on them. The joists must be positioned so that the top surface provides a straight line. The insulation and sound insulation are then removed from them.
Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it must be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers - minimum thickness must be at least 9mm.
Before final installation begins, all debris and dust should be removed from the base. If possible, you should also do priming - primer treatment. The plywood must be secured with glue, and the head of the screw must be recessed.
Concrete floor
Like a rough and finishing floor in a wooden house, concrete option occurs less frequently than others. A concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved using thermal insulation material.
The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is smoother and more durable. Concrete floors in a wooden house are also chosen because they are better protected from destruction.
In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:
- Lay along the joists.
- Lay on the ground.
- A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
- The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
- Colas less than 11 cm should be driven into the ground so that gravel can be poured over them. After this, it should be compacted and the pegs removed.
- Next, sand is poured.
- Then they lay large film made of polyethylene, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
- Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equal to the height of the cord. Next, concrete is poured onto the prepared surface.
- Concrete is leveled along the slats.
- Next, the concrete should be covered with film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is necessary to occasionally spray the mass with water.
- After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.
Materials for processing logs
Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect the logs. Therefore, when installing floors in a wooden house, they should be protected from certain factors.
Bioprotective compounds
A preparation with a bioprotective composition protects wood from mold, rot, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such products will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.
Bioprotective compounds are praised for:
- environmental friendliness;
- slight odor;
- no allergens.
The preparations must be applied before the installation of the floor in a wooden house begins.
Leave-in antiseptic
Great option if in the city high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high levels of precipitation, temperature changes, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 layers. After the work is completed, the color of the wood will become pistachio.
Traditional methods
Folk remedies for treating lags:
- Transformer oil. Thanks to deep penetration into wood structure and embalming this remedy perfectly protects the material.
- Resin. Birch resin will help against beetles, fungi and rotting. Its only drawback is its vulnerability to fire.
- Motor oil. Pros: low price, good protection. Cons - too much strong smell, sometimes interfering for several months.
Before starting work, you should understand the device diagram wooden floors, which consist of 4 “layers”:
- Rough coating.
- Thermal and waterproofing layers.
- Finish floor.
- Finishing.
Therefore, when wondering what to make a finished floor from in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 steps mentioned above and start working on the finished floor.
To make a finished floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.
Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.
The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is erected in 3 stages:
- The logs are laid so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
- The board needs to be secured closer to the wall.
- Next, you should use a hammer and a block so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. Using a self-tapping screw, each joist is fastened through a ridge.
Important! If you plan to change the floor in the future, you need to use a simple fastening option - all floorboards should be secured from above to the joists using self-tapping screws.
