How to insulate a basement floor. Construction portal

It is not entirely pleasant to live in a building where, even with a well-lit stove, the floor remains very cold. To correct this deficiency, you will need to insulate the basement of the house. But, besides this unpleasant effect, there are other consequences of the lack of work in this direction. This article will reveal the nuances and suggest ways to eliminate problems.

Why is this necessary?

Basements or cellars are built on the basis that the temperature underground is always lower than on the surface and at proper thermal insulation maintained at one level. Insulation is absolutely necessary; it eliminates such troubles as:

Soil swelling. If such a course of events is allowed, then the entire foundation of the house may be damaged and large funds will be required for restoration.
Large heat losses. Fuel consumption aimed at heating the floor and basement can be 20% of total amount. Simple calculations will show the amount saved.
Health issue. From childhood, parents teach children that their feet should be warm. According to accepted standards, the floor temperature should be no more than 3°C lower than the ambient temperature. This is an ideal indicator. But if the difference reaches a much greater value, then you can be sure that the consequences will be frequent colds in the autumn and winter periods.
Communications. Often they try to place the main main water supply and heating pipes under the house. If you do not take care to maintain a constant positive air temperature, this can lead to damage to all systems and their failure.
Increasingly, basements and attics are being used for residential purposes. In the second case, for example, an attic is built. In the first there are workshops, swimming pools, laundries, etc. This implies constant or frequent presence of people in them. High-quality insulation is required for the operation of equipment and a comfortable stay.
Humidity. Condensation can form from the temperature difference between inside and outside. And this applies not only to winter time. If basement It froze very much over the winter, then with warming the appearance of condensation is inevitable. The consequence of this will be the growth of mold and pathogenic fungi. Over time, this will lead to the penetration of spores into housing, damage flooring and other interior elements. Moisture can seep out of the soil through concrete walls. This nuance is also resolved at the insulation stage.
Food safety. Pickles and other preserves are usually stored in basements. Too cold air will cause them to freeze and spoil.

Preparation

It is best to carry out work in the warm season, when it is easy to restore order.

To prepare the basement you need:

Full cleaning. Get rid of all the trash and unnecessary things that are usually put aside for later and never used.
Ensure good ventilation for several days, closing the room only at night. This procedure will get rid of accumulated moisture. In some cases you will need additional accessories, For example, heat guns which will help dry walls, ceilings and floors.
Elimination of mold and mildew that may have appeared during operation.
Treatment with an antiseptic composition. It will prevent the spread of any pathogens.
Installation ventilation system. This step is very important, it will allow you to organize good air exchange, eliminating stagnation air masses and moisture. How to properly organize the ventilation of a basement or cellar, read.

Removing mold and mildew is not a one-day task. The fact is that they reproduce by spores. These tiny seeds can remain inactive for long periods of time. Therefore, processing may need to be carried out several times. If you don't do this, then everything Finishing work will go down the drain, because in the end everything will have to be redone. There are several ways to correct the situation. One of them involves treating contaminated surfaces with white.

For more effective fight you need to prepare a mixture that consists of the following components:

1 part vinegar;
1 part hydrogen peroxide;
2 parts water;
0.5 parts boric acid.

The liquids are mixed in a suitable container. Next, the resulting cocktail is heated to 60–80°C. This is done to make the effect more obvious. The last step the product will be applied to the damaged areas. To do this, you will need a stiff brush with artificial bristles. At the same time, it is important to take care of your own safety. You will need a respirator with replaceable cartridges, latex gloves, a painter's suit (usually sold in hardware stores), and good ventilation. At the end of the process, the walls will need to be thoroughly dried so that no moisture remains, since this is the main reason for the development of mycelium.

Ventilation installation

Human life is impossible without fresh air. But there is another reason why you need to take care of ventilation. The moisture content in the air outdoors is usually lower than indoors. The ventilation system will allow you to regulate the humidity. It is especially important when inside ground floor there is a swimming pool. This will allow the saturated masses to be removed and replaced with drier ones.

You will have to choose from two systems: forced and natural. The first option implies the presence of a certain electric drive pumping air into the room and at the same time its excess is removed through the outlet. Or the fan is mounted on the outlet pipe and after a certain mass is released, a pressure difference is created, which will be the reason for the arrival of a fresh portion. The natural principle of operation implies the presence of inflow and outflow channels. This type of ventilation is suitable in cases where the ceiling height is less than 2 meters and the area does not exceed 50 m2. In order to implement the entire scheme, you will need to sketch small drawing. You need to put an approximate plan of the house on it. The incoming pipe should be located as close to the ground as possible, and the outgoing pipe should be above the level of the ridge.

Parts you will need:

PVC pipe for ventilation with a diameter of 120 mm;
corners and couplings depending on the drawn diagram;
ventilation grilles and valves;
hammer drill or drilling machine;
clamps.

The sequence of actions will be as follows:

The outlet pipe is installed. It can be located with outside buildings or walk through rooms. The second option is suitable if there is additional utility room, through which the air duct can be passed. If there is no utility room, the pipe will have to be decorated. Holes are drilled in the floor and ceiling strictly opposite each other (a laser plumb line can be used for alignment). It is important to insulate the section running through the attic well. This will prevent drips on the ceiling and in the basement. The exit point through the roof is carefully sealed. Bituminous mastic or a special rubber seal is suitable for this purpose.
To locate the air duct on an outside wall, you will need to drill a hole through the foundation and secure the duct with clamps. The pipe on the outer part of the wall must be well insulated. This is necessary so that the exiting warm air, did not condense, and the water did not flow back into the basement. The top end is covered with a visor. To do this, you will need an additional 90° angle.
The outlet hole should be located as close to the ceiling as possible, because warm air rises.
For inflow, another hole is made in the opposite part of the room. The pipe connected to this hole should be lowered as low as possible. You can make a gap of 5 cm from the floor.
It is closed on the outside with a cover so that rainwater didn't get inside.

To drill a hole, it is not necessary to have a special installation. You can use a hammer drill and long drill. Using a compass or template, a circle is drawn. Drilling is carried out along the line in small increments. The remaining partitions are removed with a chisel. The gap between the pipe and the slab is covered with a solution.

It is important to ensure that the pipe at the inlet and outlet is of the same diameter, this is the only way to achieve the required air exchange. But the size should not be less than ∅ 120 mm or square profile equivalent volume. Otherwise the system will not work properly.

Exterior works

For achievement best result Insulation work must be carried out from the outside. This is all due to the same humidity. It is necessary to make a good water barrier to prevent its penetration from the outside. The following materials and tools will be needed:

penoplex or polystyrene foam;
glue for insulation;
waterproofing in the form of bitumen mastic, roofing felt or bikrost;
perforator;
umbrellas for fastening sheets;
bayonet shovel.

It is advisable to carry out work when there is no precipitation. They are carried out as follows:

If there is an installed blind area, it is dismantled. Parts from it can be used as buta.
A trench is dug close to the wall to a depth of 60–80 cm (it’s good if it reaches the lower level of the foundation). Its width should be such that the installer can comfortably fit there.
The exposed part of the foundation will need to be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and, possibly, growing moss. This is done using a metal or other brush.
If there is mold growing somewhere, it must be eliminated as described above.
In this state, the area is left for a day or more so that everything dries well.
Sheets of roofing material or bikrost are prepared. Everything must be calculated so that two adjacent elements are laid with an overlap of 10 cm.
The walls are coated bitumen mastic and an insulator (bicrost or roofing felt) is glued onto it. You will need to wait for the surface to dry. This usually doesn't take too long.
Expanded polystyrene sheets are marked. You can take the ones in advance that have a groove for connecting them together.
The insulation is applied and drilled through with a hammer drill so that the drill goes to the depth required for the mounting umbrella.
The plane laid on the wall is coated with glue. Its layer should be such that there are no gaps left.
Umbrellas are driven into the holes to press the heat insulator.
If the insulation sheets do not have a selected quarter of the ends for joining, then the ends (seams) are also coated with glue.
After the entire perimeter has been passed, the trench is filled with earth and compacted well. But this should not be done to the very top. You will need to leave approximately 20 cm. This gap is intended for future formwork.
A 10 cm layer of sand is made and compacted well. This can be done hand tools or special vibrating machines.
Formwork is made from edged boards or other material. Its height above ground level should be about 10 cm.
A grate is placed in the middle. For its manufacture, metal or fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm is suitable. You don’t have to make it multi-tiered; just perpendicularly located rods will be enough.
Concrete is poured into the middle. A vibrating screed is used to compact it. If the top of the formwork is flat, then it can serve as a beacon.
To prevent water from flowing under the walls of the house, drainage gutters are installed.

There is another method of insulation, which will simultaneously serve as an insulator from moisture - applying polyurethane foam. But, in this case, balloon foam is not used, because... this would take a lot of time and money, but a special pneumatic unit. Preparation is carried out in the same way as described. The coating is sprayed in several layers with short intervals for drying. The advantages are less time-consuming and a very tight fit. The substance completely repeats the configuration of all protrusions and fills the cracks well. Additional finishing not required. The entire space is covered with soil. It is not recommended to use stone and glass wool, because... these materials can absorb water, which reduces their thermal insulation properties.

Interior work

If the basement will be used not only for storing unnecessary things, then you need to start tidying up the floor. Often it consists of compacted earth, because... There is no particular desire to incur additional costs during construction. If this is the case in your case, then you will have to fill the screed. To do this you will need:

If you want to make a basement workshop where you plan to carry out a large number of time, if possible, you can organize a heated floor. If it is electric, then you can lay it under the tiles on a ready-made screed. In the case of water, the level will need to be increased by another size of insulation and finishing screed.

The next step will be insulating the floors. It is important to do this before finishing the walls from the inside so as not to spoil the coating. Step by Step Actions will be like this:

The entire surface is thoroughly cleaned, all loose parts are knocked off.
Gaps and cracks are sealed using prepared glue or mortar.
As a material for insulation, you can choose penoplex, mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

The sequence of work for a polymer heat insulator will be the same as described for external walls. Finishing consists of strengthening the entire plane with reinforcing mesh, tightening it with glue and applying plaster or painting.

For mineral wool, it is advisable to make a lathing. For these purposes, timber with a size of 50×30 mm is used. It is attached in increments of 40–60 cm, everything will depend on the width of the insulation sheet. Mattresses are placed in the resulting voids and attached to the ceiling using umbrellas. The final finishing will consist of installing edged boards or wooden lining. You don’t have to do it if you don’t plan to use the basement constantly.

The inside walls can be covered with rolled polystyrene foam. This will eliminate the feeling of cold when touched. There is no point in installing a large layer of insulation, because... it was done outside. Another point is the danger of mold due to the accumulation of moisture between thick foam and the wall. It is also important to install good doors if the entrance is from the street. This will prevent the entry of cold air, which leads to heat dissipation.

Insulation of a cellar that is separate from the house is done in a similar way. This will ensure the safety of food supplies even in very coldy. Share the methods that you personally used in the comments to this article.

Video

Insulating the basement from the inside allows you to extend the life of the building. Proper insulation and insulation help reduce heat loss, protect against dampness, and prevent the appearance of cracks if the soil swells. Insulation will allow you not to heat the basement and maintain a stable temperature inside it. The cost of materials for insulation is not high, so all work can be completed without significant costs. The equipped basement can be used as free space.

Each house has a basement, which is an area located between the ground and the first floor. Typically, the height and width of the basement allows it to be used for a wide variety of purposes. Many people use the basement as a cellar for storing vegetables and canning.

For successful and long-term storage products, the temperature in the cellar should be stable and optimal.

Proper insulation can make the room temperature normal and suitable for year-round use of the room. Basement insulation can reduce heat losses up to 20%. Basement insulation has a positive effect on the condition of the cellar walls, protecting them from dampness and moisture. Insulating the floor with polystyrene foam will protect the surface from hypothermia.

Tips for strengthening your basement:

The most effective way of strengthening is external insulation of the basement. With this technology, thermal insulation is installed on the outside of the building. This prevents basement walls from freezing during cold periods.
If you insulate the basement from the inside, condensation may form on the walls. Where the junction of the insulation and the wall passes.
Do not forget that basement walls need to be waterproofed. Thermal insulation must be resistant to moisture.
An excellent option for wall insulation is polystyrene foam. Polystyrene foam should be used on initial stage construction of the building.

Air insulation must be done so that cold air does not penetrate into the room. Foam insulation will ensure a stable microclimate in the cellar both in summer and winter. You should also take care of high-quality waterproofing, since protection from the cold will not be enough.

Insulation of the cellar: preparatory work

You can insulate the cellar with your own hands, but to do this, you must first decide what material will be used for this. At the initial stage of construction, the cellar can also be insulated from the outside. Floors, walls and ceilings must be insulated.

If all work on the construction of the cellar is completed, then the basement can only be insulated from the inside.

It is important to remember that when insulating from the inside, condensation occurs between the joints of two materials. Typically condensation causes Construction Materials are starting to deteriorate. To prevent this you need to do high-quality waterproofing, which will protect the basement from the penetration of underwater water.

Preparatory work:

Before laying insulation on the surfaces, it is important to make sure that they are perfectly level.
When the surface of the walls and ceiling is smooth, it should be treated with a special antiseptic solution.
When the thermal insulation layer is laid, the humidity level in the cellar will increase. To fix this, you need to take care of installing a high-quality ventilation system.

In order for the surface to be insulated reliably and efficiently, all cracks and crevices must first be removed. If the material is attached to the surface using dowels, it is important to ensure that they are also insulated, because cold will also penetrate through the cracks around them. You should not forget that you need to install a vapor barrier material.

How to insulate a cellar from the inside against freezing

Usually a lot of moisture forms in the cellar, which negatively affects the condition of all surfaces: floor, walls and ceiling. In winter, surfaces freeze, and in spring they become covered with condensation. The cellar must be protected from freezing, condensation, penetration of melted and groundwater.

Many craftsmen advise insulating surfaces that are located outside, since insulation from the inside often leads to the formation of a freezing zone. A good option external insulation - use of roofing felt. To insulate the surface from the outside, you first need to remove the soil that has fallen on the walls and let the brick dry.

Step-by-step insulation:

Remove soil.
It is important to take breaks so that the walls have time to dry.
Paste foam boards. For reliability, it is better to secure them with dowels.
Cover all surfaces with roofing felt to protect them from moisture.

For insulation to be reliable, it should be done not only from the outside, but also from the inside. Best material for this purpose - polystyrene foam. The foam is very strong and reliable, it does not crumble and is not afraid of moisture. You can easily install the slabs yourself.

Step-by-step actions: how to insulate a basement from the inside

Today, the most common method of insulating walls, ceilings and floors in a basement, garage or shed is insulation using foam boards. The slabs can be easily glued to the surface yourself, after first cleaning and leveling it. For reliability, the foam is attached with dowels.

A significant disadvantage of insulation as foam is its instability to attacks by rodents - they love it very much and quickly damage it.

It is also important to pay attention to the fact that polystyrene foam burns well, so you should not mount it close to sockets and electrical wiring. At the initial stage of insulation, careful preparation of surfaces should not be neglected. The foam boards will attach securely if the surfaces are level.

The most common material for laying floors and ceilings is concrete. Concrete allows cold to penetrate into the room. But in the summer it heats up. Concrete also cannot withstand moisture.

How to insulate the floor and ceiling:

Concrete slabs must be treated with a special waterproofing compound, which penetrates deeply into the concrete, filling capillaries and concrete cracks.
After complete drying concrete surface it is necessary to begin fastening the concrete slabs.
The slabs must be additionally secured with dowels.

After the slabs are securely fastened, it is necessary to cover them with a mounting mesh and secure them with plaster. Surfaces can also be reinforced with mineral wool. In order to secure the cotton wool, it is necessary to first mount wooden blocks on the surface.

How to insulate a cellar in a garage (video)

It is very important to securely strengthen the basement, since moisture and cold will penetrate into an unprotected room. All surfaces must be carefully prepared before insulation - they must be as smooth and dry as possible. It is also important to insulate places where insulation material fasten with dowels, as well as the cellar lid and hatch. It is important to reliably insulate a concrete or sand floor, as they allow groundwater to pass through very well.

It is convenient to store food in the basement, for example, vegetables, fruits, canned food, and meat products. To ensure long-term and high-quality storage, it is important to organize a favorable microclimate in the room. It is necessary to properly insulate damp cellar and protect it from freezing. If this is not done, it will be cold and damp, mold and mildew will appear, making it impossible to store food in it.

Why do you insulate a basement and when is it not necessary?

The cellar is built in the basement of a private house, under the garage, or a separate room is dug for it. To create a suitable microclimate, insulation is used, and the following is achieved:

dry walls;
waterproofing joints between the foundation and walls;
high-quality wiring insulation;
insulation of walls inside;
treating surfaces with special solutions to prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.

The need and level of basement insulation should be considered on a case-by-case basis. This largely depends on the climate of the region. In places where there are no severe and prolonged frosts, the cellar does not need insulation. If we mean a room located under a residential building, during the construction of which the foundation was properly waterproofed, then it will not require additional insulation.

In regions where prolonged frosts are not uncommon, the temperature may drop below zero, in which case thermal insulation is indispensable. Cellar insulation will also be needed for unheated garages and detached buildings.

The level of insulation depends on many characteristics of the room:

forms;
depths;
volume;
location of buildings.

Most often, an underground structure is cooled in the upper part to the level of freezing of the soil. To save money, many insulate only the ceiling and the upper part of the walls. The lower section of the basement is usually less affected by outside temperatures.

In an existing cellar, determining exactly where it should be insulated is quite simple - frost will accumulate in these places. It is not advisable to do this below the freezing level, since the layer of soil that does not freeze is itself a natural thermal insulator: it retains heat in winter and coolness in summer.

Which thermal insulation to choose?

Choose an option that is able to retain its shape, has excellent characteristics and resistance to water. The following insulation materials have the following qualities:

Styrofoam;
sawdust and peat soil;
polyurethane foam;
Penoplex;
expanded clay

Insulation with sawdust and peat soil is suitable for external insulation only of a free-standing cellar.

1. Foam plastic.

It is the most popular due to its convenient installation and low cost, but it will not provide sufficient protection from moisture and cold. Water that gets on the insulation freezes and destroys it, so waterproofing films should be used. It is more suitable for the ceiling.

2. Polyurethane foam.

It has earned its popularity due to many advantages:

reliable protection against moisture;
the possibility of obtaining a sealed basement;
biological neutrality;
fire resistance;
no joints or seams.

It also does not absorb moisture, so it will not develop mold or mildew.

Polyurethane foam is used for external and internal insulation. The downside is the installation method, which requires the use of an expensive unit high pressure, but the effect is very high.

3. Penoplex.

It is an improved polystyrene foam, which is obtained by extruding polystyrene foam. Its production is carried out at a temperature of 135-142 at a speed of 60 kg/h. The result is slabs with a porous consistency, the granules of which are tightly connected to each other. The air is evenly distributed throughout the product. The thickness of the cells filled with gas is 0.2-0.4 mm.

Its homogeneous structure makes it more durable than polystyrene foam. Penoplex should be mounted to the surface strictly according to the rules, otherwise it will lose some of its qualities.

4. Expanded clay.

It is mainly used for walls. Suitable for both external and internal work.

Rules for insulating a basement from the inside with your own hands

Thermal insulation can be placed on the ceiling, floor or walls.

Expanded clay is the most optimal in terms of price and quality. Do-it-yourself installation is carried out in the following steps:

The height of the backfill is determined and special beacons are installed.
The concrete is covered with expanded clay gravel measuring 0.5-2 cm. The thickness of the layer is determined depending on the subsequent load.
A vapor barrier is laid on top with an overlap equal to the height of the layer.
Beacons are installed, the first of them should be spaced 35 cm from the wall, and the rest should be the length of the rule with which they plan to level the concrete plane.
Reinforced screed is poured along the beacons.

Sometimes crushed stone and sand are used instead of expanded clay, then the surface is first filled with hot bitumen, which will act as waterproofing. A sand and crushed stone cushion is poured onto it. The thickness of the crushed stone layer should be 9 cm, and the sand - 6. A flexible insulation in the form of Penoplex or expanded polystyrene is laid on top, which is filled with a concrete screed.

the ceiling is plastered;
treat all floor surfaces with a waterproofing agent;
install insulation;
cover the insulator layer with a reinforcing mesh;
whitewash the ceiling lime mortar with the addition of copper sulfate.

Thermal insulation is placed so that the seams between the plates are practically invisible. To increase reliability, the joints are sealed with polyurethane foam.

Do-it-yourself insulation of cellar walls from the inside goes like this:

Preparation: inspect for cracks and flaws. The surface is cleaned of dirt, and any potholes identified are sealed with cement mortar.
Installation of waterproofing – glue-based rolls are excellent for this purpose.
Gluing the boards onto a surface coated with special glue. Fixed with dowels with wide caps.
Installation of the reinforcing mesh required for applying the plaster layer.
Plastering and applying decorative finishes.

4. Finishing doors or lids inside.

The door to the basement is usually installed for separate rooms. Insulation is made with rigid materials. They are attached to the door leaf with inside and cover the top with a wood, plastic or plywood board. It is also important to eliminate the presence of cracks around - they are sealed with a special sealant.

The lid can be insulated using expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam, which are easily glued to it, and then decorated in the same way as doors. If gaps are found, they are sealed with sealing tapes.

Many of us have a basement or cellar in a garage, be it a garage cooperative or a garage in a private home. These rooms are ideal for storage various products, tires, conservation, materials, etc. But what about high humidity, fungus and frost, which can quickly spoil all stored products and materials, in this case the right decision would be - proper insulation basement in the garage.

To create an optimal microclimate in the basement of the garage, there must be natural system ventilation. It is best to use two different ventilation duct, which will be mounted in different angles cellar, this will allow you to quickly ventilate the basement due to intensive air exchange. If you need to create good traction, then one of ventilation pipes We install it 1 meter above the garage roof, and at the same time we bring the second pipe out at the bottom near one of the walls.

Due to the difference in heights, good natural traction will be provided. Even if the cellar in the garage is heated, if natural ventilation all the hot air will simply rise up to the ceiling, and the floor and the space above it will remain cold.

Communications (electricity, heating, water) must be securely installed before work on insulating the cellar begins. Electrical wiring must be held in a protective corrugation, the wire switching points must be in an easily accessible place using cross-connect boxes. Also, all joints of heating or water pipes must be accessible for maintenance.

Choosing insulation

We decided to insulate the cellar, but we don’t know how to do it, and most importantly, what material to use.

Let's look at how to insulate a cellar in a garage using modern materials which are used by specialists for insulating basements:

polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam;
mineral wool;
“warm” plaster;
glass wool;
reflective thermal insulation.

Insulating a cellar in a garage with the materials described above allows you to achieve good thermal insulation properties and eliminate the appearance of fungus in the room, but each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

Advantages:

simple installation;
environmental friendliness;
you can use extruded polystyrene foam for floor insulation;
service life up to 40 years or more;
excellent water resistance;
low cost;
perfectly tolerates sudden temperature changes.

Flaws:

is flammable;
does not allow air to pass through.

Helpful information! Extruded polystyrene foam differs from polystyrene foam in its increased density and strength. Thus, the thermal conductivity coefficient of extruded polystyrene foam will be higher than that of polystyrene foam with the same thickness of the material. In addition, only extruded polystyrene foam is used to insulate the floor covering.

Important! When using polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam as thermal insulation, it will be necessary to treat all surfaces with a primer before starting work and, upon completion, additionally plaster the walls using reinforced plaster, and make a screed of cement and sand on the floor.

Mineral wool

Advantages:

allows air to pass through, allowing the room to “breathe”;
excellent sound insulation;
excellent thermal insulation;
affordable price;
long service life of 30 years or more.

Flaws:

allows moisture to pass through;
work is performed in special clothing and gloves.

"Warm" plaster

Advantages:

excellent thermal insulation;
affordable price;
excellent sound insulation.

Flaws:

it is necessary to apply a thick layer for good thermal insulation;
difficulty in installation.

Glass wool

Advantages:

low cost;
good thermal insulation properties;
good sound insulation properties.

Flaws:

work is performed in special clothing and gloves;
required additional frame for installation;
allows moisture to pass through;
If exposed to moisture, it may emit an unpleasant odor.

Important! If mineral wool is chosen as insulation, then it will be necessary to additionally make a vapor barrier in the basement to prevent moisture absorption by the wool itself and deterioration of its thermal insulation properties. In addition to the vapor barrier material, it is necessary to use film or foil to insulate glass wool.

Reflective Thermal Insulation

Advantages:

high thermal insulation properties;
material thickness is only from 2 to 5 mm;
simple installation;
opportunity to use facing material.

Flaws:

price;
possible heat loss

Important! Reflective thermal insulation is quite thin and will reflect like a mirror infrared heat when reflected. As a result, it is not efficient enough at convection or induction of reflected heat, which leads to heat loss.

We insulate the ceiling of the cellar

Before starting insulation work, we check the entire surface of the ceiling in the basement for cracks, potholes, etc. We carefully clean all these defects and seal them with a solution or carefully blow them out with foam. After this, we treat the entire surface of the ceiling with antifungal solutions ( quicklime or copper sulfate).

There are a lot of options for insulating a basement ceiling in a garage - from polystyrene foam to reflective insulation.

The ceiling can be insulated with any of the materials described above; for insulation with mineral wool or glass wool, a special frame will be required, which is then sheathed with HA sheets, plastic, plywood, etc. Installation of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene can be carried out on parachutes with the preliminary application of a special solution, then the mesh is applied and plastered surface and painted, you can also use facing material ( decorative tiles, panels, etc.). Decorative cladding material can also be used for reflective thermal insulation.

Insulating the hatch cover

The cellar lid, like the ceiling, should also be insulated, since there will be a large leakage of heat through it and the possibility of moisture getting from the main garage into the basement.

DIY cellar lid insulated with foam plastic

It is best to use polystyrene foam to insulate the hatch cover, it is better to choose high density 100 or 150 kg/m³. We pre-treat the lid with antifungal solutions (quicklime or copper sulfate). We cut a piece of polystyrene foam to the size of the lid and fix it with special glue or foam. To do decorative surface for an insulated cover, you can use plywood, which is fixed with self-tapping screws to the hatch cover itself. You can first make a wooden frame around the perimeter of the lid to cover the visible parts of the polystyrene foam. After fixing the plywood, it can be painted to protect it from moisture.

We insulate the floor in the cellar

Answering the question of how to insulate a basement in a garage, we go directly to the insulation process and start with insulating the floor covering.

Rigid polystyrene foam is effective for thermal insulation of floors

To insulate the floor, you will need to perform preparatory operations:

we deepen the floor, digging a hole about 30 centimeters deep around the entire perimeter, and level the entire surface of the floor;
we add fine crushed stone about 10 centimeters deep along the entire perimeter of the floor;
Next, apply a layer of sand approximately 5 centimeters thick (this will avoid the formation of moisture on the floor);
apply a layer of insulation - it is best to choose extruded polystyrene foam, at least 5 centimeters thick;
We reinforce the floor with mesh and fill it with concrete screed.

Recommendation! You should not use sawdust or wooden platforms made from boards to insulate the floor, as wood tends to absorb moisture. Within a short time, an unpleasant odor will appear and the wood will begin to rot, which will require replacement of the floor covering, and as a result, additional costs.

We insulate the walls

Regardless of what material the walls will be insulated with, all seams and cracks must first be carefully sealed and all walls must be treated with antifungal solutions (quicklime or copper sulfate).

To insulate walls with mineral wool or glass wool, a special frame made of wall profiles is used. This is done so that the wool does not “flow” down under its weight, but is firmly fixed along the entire perimeter of the wall. After this, the frame can be covered with HA sheets, plywood, etc. with subsequent finishing.

An economical solution - insulating basement walls with foam plastic

To fix polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene to the wall, a special solution and “parachutes” (dowels with a wide cap) are used. All joints between sheets of foam plastic must be carefully blown out with foam. After this, a special mesh is applied to the entire surface of the wall and plastered. After plastering, the walls can be painted.

Important! Before installing foam sheets, it is advisable to level all the walls and remove all protruding parts. This is done to ensure that the foam sheets fit tightly to each other and to the wall, providing good thermal insulation.

Reflective thermal insulation is installed quite simply; it is glued to the wall surface along the entire perimeter. On the wall side the base of the material is polyurethane foam, on the outside there is polished foil. A decorative or cladding coating can be applied on top of the reflective insulation.

Video: example of a basement in a garage, insulated with your own hands

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to answer in detail the question - how to insulate a cellar in a garage, give examples and give useful recommendations. Use the acquired knowledge in practice, and you can not only make your garage cellar warm with good ventilation, but also get rid of humidity. Create an ideal microclimate for storing food, materials, and tools in the garage cellar at minimal cost.

In the country, personal plot or in the courtyard of an honest house they set up a separate structure for storing vegetables, canned goods, winter preparations, twists and other things. Correct device The cellar requires insulation to create an optimal microclimate in the storage. The cellar and basement differ in a number of parameters, which means the approach to insulating them for the winter will differ in several ways.

What is the difference between a cellar and a basement?

Basement- a room located under a residential building. The key characteristic is the presence of indirect heating. IN in this case, during the heating period the basement is much warmer than the cellar. In addition, it contains communications. In this connection, the requirements are stricter. Among other things, the basement ceiling is a serious source of heat loss from the heated rooms on the first floor.

Cellar- an object located separately or located under summer kitchen, garage, outbuildings. The temperature in it is more stable throughout the year, which means canned goods, vegetables or wine are stored much better.

This is what leads to the fact that, if there is free space on the site, the owners tend to build a cellar on the street. And already during operation, the question invariably arises whether it is necessary to insulate the cellar. After all, from an excess of heat, vegetables will begin to wither and rot, and from a lack of heat, they will freeze.

Of course, it is better to carry out thermal insulation work during the construction of the cellar. But what about those who already have a cellar in their country house? How to insulate a cellar from freezing without serious expenses?

The choice of insulation method involves carrying out work in one of the following areas:

insulation of the cellar from the outside;
insulation of the cellar from the inside;
combined insulation. The most effective way, because is complex.

Types of cellars for a private home

When deciding how to insulate a cellar from the inside or outside, the type of cellar is first taken into account:

A separate room with a depth of up to 0.5 m into the soil. It can be free-standing or wall-mounted (one of the walls of the cellar is the wall outbuilding or garage). From the point of view of insulation, this is the simplest option, because... It is possible to insulate the walls and roof from the outside and inside.

Deep cellar

The lowest point of the building is located at a depth of no more than 1.5 m from the ground surface. In this case, in addition to insulation, you should also think about neutralizing the effects of groundwater and frost heaving of the soil.

Underground (bulk) cellar

It is distinguished by the location of the floor at a level of 2-3 meters underground. With proper waterproofing, this is the most advantageous cellar from the point of view of operation, which perfectly maintains above-zero temperatures, approximately constant, throughout the year.

Despite the differences in construction, the design of the cellar is not diverse.

Standard cellar design:

walls - if the soil is dense - soil, if the soil is moving - brick or stone;
there is no floor, or rather it is dirt;
ceiling - reinforced concrete or wood.

Accordingly, the ceiling, walls, and floor are insulated. Those. all cellar surfaces through which heat loss is possible.

Materials for cellar insulation

Despite the significant diversity thermal insulation materials, it should be taken into account that not all of them are suitable. The material for insulating a cellar must have such properties as the ability to maintain geometry, withstand water and soil pressure, have high insulating properties (table), and absolute hygroscopicity.

Due to the above reasons, mineral wool or ecowool is of little use for thermal insulation.

If you arrange the materials in descending order, the following sequence will appear:

cellar insulation with foam plastic. Most popular insulation. After all, in addition to thermal insulation characteristics, foam plastic is distinguished by low price and ease of installation. Polystyrene foam does not rot, is not hygroscopic, is biologically inert, is lightweight, and does not require any use. vapor barrier films and arrangement of sheathing. Mounted both outside and inside the room;

insulation of the cellar with sawdust or peat soil, which retain heat well and are unattractive to rodents;

cellar insulation with polyurethane foam. PPU refers to sprayed insulation. Possessing all the properties of its predecessors, it is distinguished by its non-flammability and ability to fill the entire space (cracks, crevices). PPU creates a shell, which is the most reliable way to insulate cellars both outside and inside. At the same time, the cost of polyurethane foam is high, and application requires special equipment and the involvement of specialists;

cellar insulation with polystyrene foam. Expanded polystyrene has all the characteristics of polystyrene foam. The only difference is the higher price, which is due to the higher density of the material, the integrity of the sheet structure (the ability not to crumble during installation), and the presence of a tongue-and-groove installation system;

cellar insulation with expanded clay. Expanded clay, like any other bulk material, has a limited scope of application. As a rule, it is used for floor insulation. It can also be used for walls when external insulation underground (buried) cellar.

cellar insulation with black soil. Used for external insulation. In this case, the earth is poured onto the roof of the cellar. However, when modern level technology development there is much more effective ways insulation while maintaining absolute environmental cleanliness of the site.

Insulation technology depending on the type of cellar

An approach to thermal insulation taking into account the structure of the structure.

Insulation of a ground cellar

With this design, the main emphasis is on insulating the walls and roof. This means that it is best to carry out external work and use polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. Insulation work is carried out outdoors, according to the technology for installing these materials. The roof is insulated from the inside. For these works, soft or hard insulation can be used.

Insulation of a deep cellar

The walls of such a cellar are half located in the ground. Therefore, there is a risk of flooding. To level it, you need to release (dig up) the buried part outer wall from the ground, treat it with any waterproofing solution (mastic) or wrap it with roofing felt. Then lay down rigid insulation or polyurethane foam, re-wrap it with roofing felt (this will protect the sheet from deformation) and cover it with soil. To minimize the influence of water, it is better to equip a drainage system.

Insulation of bulk cellar (underground)

Performed both externally and internally. Below are detailed recommendations and advice on step-by-step thermal insulation of structures for storing agricultural products in the country.

How to insulate a cellar with your own hands

Different insulation technologies in the form of step-by-step instructions.

External insulation of a bulk cellar

The most labor-intensive part of the work involves performing a number of actions:

The soil surrounding the roof and walls of the cellar is removed.
Note. Sometimes it is not possible to excavate the soil. For example, when a cellar is dug into the ground and the resulting slopes are finished with brick. Such walls can collapse. In this case, users are advised to remove the soil at a distance of 100-150 mm. from the wall, and then gradually remove the rest.

Additional protection from moisture will be provided by installing a crushed stone-sand cushion at a depth of 200-300 mm. from the base of the wall.

Rigid insulation boards are installed or polyurethane foam is applied;

all defects from the surface of the walls are eliminated;

For further work, the roof and walls must be completely dry. Therefore, work stops until the walls are completely dry. As you can see, it is better to carry out work in the warm, dry season;

Roof insulation is, in essence, covering the cellar with insulation. The technology involves laying roofing felt on top of the ceiling, filling the roof with a clay-straw mixture on top. The height of the filling on the roof is 0.4-0.5 m. The mixture is carefully compacted and covered with a dense film. The edges of the film are wrapped on the wall with an overlap of 150-200 mm.

The wall is being waterproofed. Primer treatment will not help much in this case. It is better to use a solution of bitumen with diesel fuel (1:3), mastic, roofing material or a special film;

the joints between the sheets are blown with foam;
Some experts advise tightening the insulation polymer mesh, to ensure the integrity of the sheet. Roofing material will cope with this task more successfully. But often the distance between the wall and the soil is simply filled with expanded clay, soil with a high clay content, or a mixture of soil, sawdust/straw and clay.

If there is no ventilation in the cellar, it is advisable to take care of it at this stage.

the resulting hill is covered with a layer fertile soil 100-150 mm high. followed by disembarkation herbaceous plants, which will protect the cellar from sun rays, and strengthen the soil with their roots.

Internal insulation of the cellar

The walls, ceiling, floor and doors are subject to thermal insulation from the inside. A few photos as an example of the finished result.

Insulating the cellar wall from the inside

Execution technology:

the walls are inspected for defects;

the cellar is emptied of contents, shelves and drawers are temporarily dismantled;

detected defects are eliminated (protrusions are knocked down, cracks are filled with foam or sealant);
Increased attention is paid to the quality of the surface, because... significant irregularities prevent high-quality installation polystyrene foam;

the wall is waterproofed (with mastic or liquid rubber);

Rigid insulation boards are fixed.
For this, umbrella dowels or glue are used. Attaching the foam starts from the bottom row and moves upward. In this case, in each subsequent row an offset of half a sheet is performed;

a polymer mesh is attached to the insulated surface;
the junctions of the sheets are blown with foam. If the gap is significant, foam cuttings are placed in it;
apply plaster.

Note. To eliminate pockets of mold, it is advisable to treat the walls with a solution of lime and copper sulfate.

Insulation of the cellar floor

There are several methods of insulation that have proven themselves in practice. Let's consider floor insulation with expanded clay as the most best option, in terms of price/quality ratio.

Work order:

after the concrete on which the beacons are placed and fixed has hardened, it is filled expanded clay gravel fraction 5-20 mm. At the same time, the thickness of the gravel layer depends on the load that will fall on the floor;
A vapor barrier film is laid on its surface with access to the wall. The height of the overlap is equal to the height of the backfill;
the floor is deepened to the depth of the future heat-insulating layer (200-300 mm) and leveled;
Beacons are installed along the film. The first of them is at a distance of 300-400 mm from the wall. The rest are at a distance equal to length the rules that the screed will be equal to;
is poured reinforced screed. The thickness of the screed also depends on the load.

Thermal insulation method using sand and crushed stone. This method can only be used for loose floors.

Sequence of work:

if insulation is not used, the floor is filled with hot bitumen. It will perform the function of waterproofing;
the sand-crushed stone cushion is carefully compacted;
a layer of crushed stone is poured (100 mm);
the floor is deepened to the depth of the future thermal insulation layer and leveled;
a layer of sand (50 mm) is poured on top;
Rigid thermal insulation material (for example, penoplex, expanded polystyrene boards) can be laid on the surface;
the prepared floor is filled with reinforced concrete screed.

Insulation of the cellar ceiling

In the case of buried or above ground cellar The roof of the structure needs insulation. Roof insulation work involves the use of soft or hard insulation, which is installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

As for the underground (buried, bulk) cellar, then in additional insulation needs the ceiling of the room.

Work order:

plaster is applied.
a layer of rigid insulation is installed;
concrete floor slab or wooden beams treated with a penetrating waterproofing primer. The composition fills the capillaries and prevents water seepage. The wood is additionally treated with an antiseptic;
the thermal insulation material is covered with a mounting mesh;
Whitewashing is done with lime and copper sulfate.

Note. The ceiling in the cellar is the most vulnerable from the point of view temperature regime place. Therefore, it is better to insulate it in two layers (100 mm).

Insulation of the entrance area: doors or hatch to the cellar

If the entrance to the cellar is located in a house or garage, there are no special requirements for its insulation.

But if the entrance is located on the street, then it is necessary to insulate the entrance to the cellar.

Work order:

cellar door insulation Previously, it was carried out using felt and other soft materials. However, now the use of rigid insulation materials that are glued to the doors is considered justified. Then the insulation is covered with a sheet of plywood, plastic or natural wood. Be sure to eliminate the gaps at the junction of the door and the frame. The door seal is installed at this location;

cellar hatch insulation performed in the same way. Only more attention is paid to reliable fixation of the insulation on the surface of the lid. Otherwise, it may fall off.

An important point that you should pay attention to when insulating a door or hatch is to exclude the possibility of them opening arbitrarily. Otherwise, all work on thermal insulation of the cellar will be useless.

Insulating a concrete or brick cellar is not difficult due to the optimality of their shape and resistance to mechanical damage(brick and concrete walls can be drilled, fixing an umbrella dowel or processed hot mastic to ensure waterproofing).

Nose modern caissons For cellars the situation is somewhat different, because... Thermal insulation measures may damage the seal of the tank.

However, insulating them is also important, because the walls easily transmit both heat and cold. Since the caisson is a solid structure, it does not require waterproofing. From the point of view of the material used, caissons for the cellar can be (types):

plastic (made of polymer materials);
reinforced concrete (made of concrete rings);
metal (steel).

It should be taken into account that materials have different heat loss rates.

In this case, the caisson cellar can have the shape of a cube or cylinder, which affects the choice of heat insulator. To insulate a caisson for a cellar, you can use bulk, rigid and sprayed insulation. Let's consider ways to use them in descending order of popularity:

hard insulation. They are used in cases where the caisson has the shape of a cube, square, rectangle with smooth walls. The insulation is glued to the surface of the caisson. The caisson is placed in the ground, the distance between it and the soil is filled;

bulk insulation: soil, expanded clay, sand, peat soil. In this case, the caisson is placed in the ground, and the distance between its walls and the soil is filled up;

sprayed insulation - polyurethane foam. Provide the most effective thermal insulation. But the disadvantage of PPU insulation is high price and the need to attract specialists with special equipment.

The indicated types of thermal insulation materials are suitable for insulating a metal cellar, as well as insulating a plastic cellar. The construction market offers cellars made of plastic with insulation, which eliminates the need to carry out insulation work with your own hands; it is enough to carry out the installation correctly.

Conclusion

An insulated cellar in a country house or in the courtyard of a private house is a guarantee that winter preparations will be safe and sound, despite the cold or heat “overboard”.