Gone are the days when electricity and gas were very cheap. Heating a house without thinking about the costs in our time is already an unaffordable luxury. And given the cold climate and long, harsh winters, you have to think about how to retain precious heat inside with maximum effect.
The fact that a huge number of houses are built from wood is no secret to anyone, because the material is accessible and relatively inexpensive. But many of its owners do not think about the fact that log and cobblestone housing can and should be additionally insulated. How and with what to insulate a wooden house, and why it is needed is the topic of our article.
Why insulate your house
Wood retains heat very well, everyone knows this. But is it good enough to feel comfortable inside your home? Yes, this is one of the most popular materials, and many people choose it.
Environmentally friendly, long service life, affordable price and ease of processing are some of the advantages of wood.
Note!
But precipitation, wind and temperature changes do not affect it in the best way.
Antiseptic treatment, of course, will partially protect, but will not create complete confidence that the material will last long.
Mold, mildew, and rot will destroy your home sooner than you would like.
And as a result - quick repairs or complete remodeling of the home.
- If you don’t additionally insulate the walls wooden house, it won't be warm enough inside. You will have to install additional heaters and spend extra money and energy on heating.
It will blow through the cracks, and all efforts to keep warm will be in vain. Everyone knows the severity of our winters, severe frost Even such a high-quality material as wood will not cope with the task fully. - Having spent once on materials and work for insulation, you will experience significant savings on heating costs. The costs will be recouped quickly, and the house will last much longer without repairs.
In many developed countries, even with milder climates, great attention is paid to energy saving. And private homeowners make a big contribution to this. - Residents often complain about the increased level of noise, which penetrates literally into all the cracks and haunts them.. After you finish the walls with insulation, background noise will decrease significantly, and this will be very noticeable.
After all, finishing the house will create a barrier not only to cold, water and wind, but will also serve as soundproofing protection. It will not only be warm inside, but also quiet.
Thermal insulation methods
For now insulation work can be divided into two categories - internal and external. During construction, the homeowner usually insulates the floors, roof and walls from the inside of the room. After that comes the final finishing work.
But they think much less often about external decoration. But not everyone knows how to properly insulate a wooden house, and they rarely pay attention to it.
Exterior finishing can be done both at the construction stage and much later, when the house is completely ready and even lived in by the owners. This is another advantage, because you do not have to endure the inconvenience associated with repair work inside.
And, even if you think that you have properly and carefully insulated the walls in the rooms, still pay attention to the exterior decoration. By doing this, you will extend the life of your home, and gain comfort and peace of mind for yourself.
At the moment, materials suitable for work can be divided into three main categories.
Organic thermal insulators
These include various slabs made entirely from wood, plant fibers or with the addition of wood waste. Animal wool can be included in this category.
The durability and efficiency of such insulation materials is not the highest, since they are susceptible to moisture. Therefore, installation, as the instructions say, requires special attention and subtleties.
Mixed insulation
Modern materials, very effective and in demand today. Glass wool, cellular concrete and foam glass were gradually replaced by a more modern material - mineral wool.
Fibers produced from basalt rocks are pressed into soft elastic mats. They are easily transported, installed and have a number of excellent characteristics. That is why mineral wool has become a leader in the market of building materials used for insulation work.
Synthetic materials
These can easily include polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, materials. In essence, polystyrene foam is a closed cellular structure of air-filled bubbles. Since there are no gaps between them, there is no opportunity for moisture to invade the space.
Note!
This means that even if you don’t know how to insulate an old wooden house, the material itself will tell you that you need to choose it.
Rotten logs can be covered with foam plastic long before they need replacing. This will protect your walls for at least ten years.
Severely damp wood will slow down its destruction. As a result, repairs may be delayed.
There is another interesting one, modern way insulation. This is the treatment of walls, both outside and inside, with polyurethane foam. This method involves applying foam to walls or floors, where a layer hardened over several hours forms a monolithic protection that only needs final, decorative finishing.
Those who like to do everything with their own hands will have to invite a worker equipped with a special apparatus that applies this foam. But you will save on the installation of the frame, which in this case is optional.
Adhesion to any surface is guaranteed, so you can safely apply foam to walls made of wood, brick and concrete. Surfaces inside and outside can be insulated in a matter of hours with this innovative material.
Thermal insulation work
The process of insulating walls inside and outside is essentially the same.
We insulate the walls
- After the entire insulator has been laid, it should be covered with a waterproofing film.. It is necessary to leave a small gap between the insulation and the moisture insulation.
This is necessary so that the insulating layer does not get wet and does not rot from the condensation that collects inside.
- Final finishing of the walls decorative material . It can be anything - from lining to special tiles. If necessary, the frame is extended, and then the finishing is attached to it.
Insulation of floors, ceilings and attic
Particular attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of floors, ceilings or attic floor. The windows around the perimeter are treated and, if necessary, covered with siding. It is advisable to insulate the floor at the construction stage, before laying outer covering. Otherwise, you will have to remove boards or laminate to add insulation.
Before insulating a wooden extension or terrace, it is advisable to do all the basic work, decorating the walls and attic.
Since heated air rises, most of the heat is lost through the ceilings. By insulating the floors, you will save up to 20% of the cost of heating your home. Moreover, a well-designed attic will last much longer, and the noise from rain falling on the roof will not bother you.
Can be used as mineral wool, and polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam.
The installation procedure should look as follows.
- If the floors have wooden beams, then walk-through plank bridges are made, followed by wooden blocks, a vapor barrier layer, an insulating layer, floor beams and roll-up panels.
- For a house with an attic, the order of layers is as follows: interior decoration, insulation, rafters, wooden sheathing, roofing.
If you have a balcony or loggia, it is also necessary to protect the walls. Since extensions usually have thin walls, insulating the loggia will keep the house comfortable atmosphere and your additional heating costs.
Conclusion
Not only for the sake of saving money, but also to maintain coziness and comfort in the house, it is necessary to insulate it as much as possible. Even such a good material as wood cannot cope with the cold without additional protection. Having furnished your home, you will forget about repairs for decades, and the inside will always be dry and warm.
In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.
Verandas (terraces) of private houses and summer cottages are usually not heated, so they are used as living quarters only in summer, late spring and early autumn. In winter, they serve as a kind of vestibule, in which only skis and sleds can survive. Is it possible to turn cold veranda V extra room? Yes, you can. A properly insulated terrace will keep the house warm, the walls of an unheated room will no longer freeze and become damp, and if you spend money on installing a heated floor or turn on a heater, you can fully use the “summer apartment” on frosty days. The choice of thermal insulation material and insulation method depends both on the solvency of the property owners and on the stage at which the work is carried out: during the reconstruction/expansion of the house or during construction from scratch. How to insulate a veranda for winter accommodation, will be discussed below.
How and where does heat go?
On cold days, heat can escape from the house in all directions: up, down and to the sides, that is, you should consider thermal insulation of the entire “envelope”: ceiling, walls, floor, windows and terrace doors. Many homeowners are mistaken in believing that heated air always moves upward. This is only one form of convection, in which warm currents primarily rise from the floor. In fact, they move in all directions. General rule: The greater the temperature difference, the greater the heat flow. Thus, the colder it is outside, the faster the heated air leaves the house.
An insulated terrace will “save” heat throughout the entire house
Is it possible to completely eliminate heat loss? Clearly not. But you can significantly reduce it by insulating the veranda according to all the rules. To do this, you need to know through which parts of the room the heated air “floats”. About 30–40 percent of heat loss typical house falls on the walls. The roof “takes” about 25 percent, windows and doors - approximately 20, and the floor - 10. A fairly large leakage of heated air occurs due to drafts, excessive ventilation and lack of tightness.
Review of thermal insulation materials
What properties do heat insulators have?
Thermal insulators are distinguished by structure: some resemble wool, others have tiny cavities - pockets filled with air, which has low thermal conductivity. The first include common mineral fibrous materials produced in rolls or in the form of dense “felt” slabs. The second are polymer-based insulation materials produced in the form of panels or foams.
Most wood-based products, such as MDF, plywood, and fiberboard, also have low thermal conductivity. That's why wooden doors, finishing MDF walls, covering the hatch to the attic with clapboard helps to retain heat.
Some sealants also “work” as heat insulators. They seal cracks and gaps. One of the cheapest sealants is papier-mâché; it can be easily made from paper and wallpaper glue.
Good insulating materials not only slow down the process of heat loss, but also have other important properties: fire resistance, indifference to chemicals, wear resistance, non-toxic, antimycotic (prevents the development of mold). However, another significant factor is cost, therefore, when choosing thermal insulation materials, they are guided by the notorious price/quality ratio. We should not forget about the requirements set out in regulatory documents(GOST 16381-77, GOST 22950-95, GOST 31913-2011 and others).
What materials are used to insulate the veranda?
Most often, the following is used to insulate walls, ceilings, floors, windows and terrace doors:
- Mineral (glass, stone, slag) wool – fibrous material, resistant to high temperature. Thermal conductivity depends on the density of the wool.
- Expanded polystyrene (foam), including extrusion, is inexpensive, quite durable heat an insulator, the main disadvantage of which is a high fire hazard. When burned, it releases toxic substances. They produce modified self-extinguishing polystyrene foam with fire retardants (marked “C”). Fire-resistant boards are much denser and heavier than the types of polystyrene used for packaging. Extruded polystyrene foam is 50 percent more efficient (for the same thickness) than standard mineral wool products.
- Penofol is foamed polyethylene, covered on one or both sides with a layer of aluminum foil. Such “sandwiches” of metal foil and plastic insulator are used to reflect radiated heat.
- Polyurethane foam in the form of panels or polyurethane foam (foamed polyurethane foam) is a material with low thermal conductivity (0.03–0.04 W/(m K) and high adhesion. Foam is formed when mixed chemical substances. As it hardens, it traps air in tiny pockets. Because foam can fill cracks and crevices, it is used to seal existing building structures, which helps eliminate drafts. Foamed adhesive tapes used for insulation of windows, doors, attic hatches.
- Cork sheets made from cork oak bark are an environmentally friendly, but very expensive heat insulator.
- Expanded clay is porous granules obtained by firing clay. Used as backfill for insulation of floors and ceilings.
Foil penofol reflects about 95 percent of thermal energy
Vacuum insulating panels - innovative technology in insulation
Relatively new material, successfully used in Europe and gradually conquering the domestic market - VIP vacuum insulating panels. They help out in cases where saving space is the main factor influencing the choice of material. Minimum thickness insulation allows you to maintain the height of the ceiling and eliminates the need to build a threshold between the terrace and adjacent room.
Thermal conductivity of the panels is 0.007W/(m K). In terms of thickness/degree of thermal insulation ratio, this is the best of all available materials for insulation. VIP systems typically consist of highly insulated vacuum panels and sealing strips of appropriate thickness. Such panels are usually installed along the outer edge. Manufacturers of vacuum panels supply kits with attached instructions demonstrating optimal scheme placement of panels and sealing tapes, which helps reduce the thickness of the insulation system to a minimum. The new heat insulator has one drawback - the material is expensive.
Ultra-thin VIP vacuum insulation panels are 20 times more effective than traditional insulation materials
How to insulate a veranda from the outside
Pros and cons of external insulation
- All dirty work is carried out outdoors.
- The veranda area is preserved.
- The freezing point extends beyond the outer boundary of the walls.
- The whole design resembles a thermos: it keeps the room warm in winter and cool in summer.
The disadvantages include the difficulty of performing reconstruction in bad weather.
To carry out work on insulating the veranda, no permits are required, therefore, having decided on thermal insulation materials, we begin the process. It is advisable to insulate the outside of the room in the warm season.
Ceiling insulation
If the veranda and the house have common roof and attic, then insulating the ceiling will not be difficult. Most convenient way– filling the frame cells with heat-insulating material.
Important! It is necessary to take care of vapor barrier.
What material should I use? Few a budget option: roofing felt is spread overlapping or the sheets are joined and glued, and a layer of expanded clay is poured on top or mineral wool slabs are laid. If possible, it is better to use foil-coated penofol, which retains heat well and does not allow moisture to pass through.
Ceiling insulation diagram from the attic side
Wall cladding with thermal insulation material
The easiest way is to line the walls with sandwich panels, which use mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam as insulation. The main advantage of such insulation is the combination of thermal insulation with external finishing, and you can choose almost any option for the outer layer: metal, PVC, and so on. When choosing decorative log or siding sandwich panels, the exterior of the house completely changes.
Thermal insulation with panels made of polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam or mineral wool is performed in two ways:
- If you are insulating a veranda in a wooden house, then first lay sheathing on the walls. The pitch corresponds to the size of the panels used. Then the insulation is attached with special dowels (“umbrellas”), on top of which the waterproofing layer is fixed with a stapler. Cover insulated walls with siding, plank, clapboard or any other finishing material– the choice is huge.
- On brick or concrete walls assembly adhesive Thermal insulation panels are fixed. Then a reinforcing mesh is attached, plastered and painted or a suitable facing material is used.
Insulation scheme brick wall outside
Insulation of windows and doors
Ideally, it is advisable to install a ready-made entrance door with the provided thermal insulation (for a private house). If it is not possible to replace the door, then you should insulate the old one. To do this, foam rubber (you can get by with a blanket) is fixed with a stapler or glue, then leatherette is attached with furniture nails. A seal is laid around the perimeter of the door.
Thermal insulation is provided in ready-made entrance doors for private houses
It's the same story with windows. It is optimal to replace old windows with double-glazed windows. If this option is not feasible for any reason, insulate the outside with conventional plastic film. To do this, slats are stuffed onto the frame, and the film is attached to them with a stapler.
Do-it-yourself insulation of the veranda from the inside
How to insulate a ceiling
If the roof structure does not allow external thermal insulation ceiling, you have to “take away” the height from the room and insulate it from the inside. A frame is mounted on the ceiling, taking into account that cross section timber must correspond to the thickness of the insulation boards. Using umbrella dowels, the heat insulator panels are fixed and a film is laid to protect against steam. The resulting “sandwich” is covered with plasterboard. If you don’t want to lower the ceiling height, then use vacuum insulating panels, which take up virtually no space.
Important! Be sure to insulate the hatch to the attic: seal the cracks, lay a seal around the perimeter, and sheathe it.
Veranda ceiling insulation technology
Thermal insulation of walls
They begin work by removing the old coating and cleaning the walls from dust. When using mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, first prime the surface and lay a layer of waterproofing. Then the frame is mounted (it is more convenient to use metal profiles) and the thermal insulation panels are attached. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. The final stage is installation of drywall, puttying and application of the finishing coat.
Changing the location of the dew point when insulating walls from the inside
Experts advise using ready-made electric floor heating modules to insulate walls from the inside and turning on the system on cold days/nights. This method of insulation is very expensive, but it guarantees dry and warm wall.
Thermal insulation of windows and doors
Double glazing is considered effective way reducing heat loss, however, is relatively expensive. To save money, you can “preserve” the window for the winter in another way: attach a regular film to the frame using double-sided adhesive tape. Yes, it’s not entirely aesthetically pleasing, but it’s warm. It is advisable to seal all cracks with self-adhesive foam strips. You can do it the old fashioned way: with paste and paper, after caulking it with cotton wool or foam rubber. Thick curtains with thermal lining – additional method protecting the veranda from heat loss through the windows.
Even when installed modern doors with thermal insulation from below it usually “pulls”. In Europe, it is customary to make a special roller and place it under the door. The British jokingly call him a dachshund. Making such a “dachshund” is simple: stuff the stocking with old socks or other rags and tie it (the length of the “sausage” should be equal to the width of the door). The top decorative “pillowcase” can be knitted or sewn.
Insulation of the floor on the veranda
Thermal insulation of the floor from the basement
If there is a basement under the veranda, then insulating the floor is easier - there is no need to dismantle the existing flooring.
Stages of work:
- Vapor barrier material is attached to the floor beams and the back side of the flooring using a stapler or mounting adhesive;
- if the distance between the beams significantly exceeds the width of the insulation boards, the side edges are “increased” with slats, bars or a metal profile, leaving a step a couple of centimeters smaller than the size of the material (the mineral wool block should be tightly fixed in the cell);
- install thermal insulation panels;
- lay a layer of vapor barrier;
- installing a rough ceiling.
Insulation scheme wooden floor
Other floor insulation options
If there is no basement under the veranda, floor insulation work is moved indoors. If the owners of the house do not plan to start major renovation terraces, then tearing down the old flooring just to lay thermal insulation is not worth it, since the result will be too labor-intensive and costly a method of insulation. Typically, logs are installed on top of the existing covering, expanded clay is poured in, or insulating panels are laid and a new floor is laid. True, in this case the floor level rises higher and a threshold appears between the veranda and next room. How to avoid this? Vacuum insulating panels “soldered” into MDF can be used. They will raise the floor by only 30 mm. The second way is to dismantle part of the covering and insulate it with ecowool, but this will require special equipment, since the composition is supplied under pressure. Another option is to install a “warm floor” system. You can do with little: carefully seal the gaps between the floorboards, fit the baseboards well and lay a thick carpet on the floor.
Insulating the floor over the existing coating
Note! With any method of insulation, one must not forget about reliable waterproofing.
Video lesson: insulating the walls of the veranda from the outside
Insulation of the veranda, despite the abundance of thermal insulation materials and the apparent simplicity of their installation, is sufficient labor-intensive process. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to specialists construction company. They will produce necessary calculations and insulate the veranda according to all the rules.
Still popular among construction companies. Usually you want to build such houses additional buildings, which would emphasize the individuality of the structure. Frame extension to a wooden house can, in principle, be erected independently, but for this it is necessary to have construction skills and follow the rules and sequence of work.
To avoid any unpleasant surprises with the extension in the future, several issues need to be considered during its construction:
- Selecting material for the extension
Most best option- This metal carcass, then covered with wood. You also need to immediately think about what kind of wood (color) the veranda cladding will be made of, so that it matches the overall style of the house.
- Foundation
Basically, extensions are built after the construction of the entire house is completed, so it is necessary not only to build a foundation for the veranda, it is also desirable to ensure that both foundations are solid.
- Drawing up an extension project
You can’t start building a veranda without project plan, since this can then not only spoil the external image of the entire house, but also affect the service life of the veranda. It is necessary to think over the layout, dismantle old buildings if necessary, provide good approach to the construction site, think about it, etc.
Do-it-yourself insulation of the veranda of a wooden house
Since the veranda will be the place where noisy groups will gather, family conversations will take place during tea drinking, etc., it is necessary to think about how to ensure the preservation of heat inside the room during the cold season.
The first step in the process of insulating the veranda is. The most popular and popular view The insulation is polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
IMPORTANT: In order for the effect of insulation to be as noticeable as possible, a layer of penofol must be laid between the walls of the veranda and the insulation layer.
Since a frame extension to a wooden house usually has a plank floor, it must be insulated.
Warming the veranda floor
The floor must be puttied and painted with paint with frost-resistant additives. After painting, an underlay layer of penofol is laid on the floor, and a layer of insulation material. Floor insulation can be made from natural (cork, granular insulation, cellulose) and artificial materials.
The floor can be insulated with bulk (expanded clay, slag, foam glass), sprayed (ECO wool, penoizol), self-leveling (polymer mixtures), rolled (mineral wool, linoleum) or tiled (foam glass, glass wool, gypsum fiber sheets) materials.
Since the floor in verandas is usually made of joists to which boards are attached, it is necessary to ensure that insulation is laid between the joists. To do this, you need to carefully remove the boards from the floor, lay them out between the joists, lay a vapor barrier layer, and then nail the boards back.
IMPORTANT: The insulation must adhere to the joists as tightly as possible. The height of the insulation should be several millimeters below the floor level. Such a gap will ensure air circulation so that moisture does not linger inside (this will protect the floor from the appearance of fungus and rotting).
Insulation of veranda walls
To insulate the walls of the veranda from the inside, you can use not ordinary insulation materials (foam plastic, mineral wool), but sheets of plasterboard. Their installation is very simple, it is fastened quickly, especially since its cost is low.
Since insulating a veranda in a wooden house plasterboard sheets involves the construction of a sheathing; its basis can be not only metal, but also wooden frame. Insulation (foam plastic, glass wool) is placed between the sheathing, and the sheets of plasterboard themselves are attached using ordinary screws to the sheathing profiles.
If you insulate the veranda with only mineral wool, then it must be treated on top with penofol to ensure the required level of vapor barrier.
One more simple material PENOPLEX can be used to insulate the veranda. Such sheets are attached to the walls with glue. If you use PENOPLEX, then there is no need to carry out a vapor barrier, since the material already has good characteristics waterproof. A thin layer of plaster is then applied on top of the insulation, which is covered with wallpaper or simply painted in the desired color.
From the outside, the walls of the veranda are insulated in the same way: the sheathing is attached, the cavities between the sheathing profiles are filled with a moisture barrier and insulation, and then they are attached facing materials. A frame extension to a wooden house is usually built outside decorative panels or siding.
It is rare that during the construction of a house it is not insulated. Even if insulation materials are not used at the time of construction itself, the possibility of insulating the walls inside the house, and...
Construction residential buildings made of wood is gaining more and more popularity due to a number of specific reasons. If some people are interested wooden houses due to aesthetic...
Modern houses from natural materials, despite his high cost, are quite a popular phenomenon, since they have a number of advantages in comparison with their analogues....
Everyone who has a country house, no matter whether it’s a simple country house or a respectable cottage, eventually gets the idea that it wouldn’t be a bad idea to enlarge it a little usable area. Some people need a garage, some are ready for a bathhouse, while others are simply missing a few square meters to install a small vestibule in front of the entrance to the house. Everyone's goals are different. But in the vast majority of cases, there is only one way to achieve these goals: this is the construction of a small one-story extension, closely adjacent to the main building.
And, what is very surprising, but nevertheless a fact - all home owners want to complete this extension as quickly as possible (before summer is over). And everyone, in a hurry, makes the same mistakes. One of the most common mistakes, or rather, avoidance, is the installation of poor-quality thermal insulation of the attached room. This error is truly widespread, and can be explained very simply. Not all summer residents and gardeners, by virtue of their profession, are involved in construction, and therefore, in the summer, forgetting about the need to insulate the walls of the room is a piece of cake for them. The most interesting thing is that everyone who for some reason did not insulate the walls wooden extension during construction - sooner or later you will have to do this anyway, and therefore you will have to spend time collecting and studying the relevant information. Therefore, if you feel that the construction of your extension is not far off, take a couple of minutes and read this article to the end.
So, we are learning how to insulate the premises of an already erected extension.
First of all, it is necessary to determine how the room will be insulated - from the outside or from the inside. Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to do both. However, in relation to the dacha sector, the simplest and most economical option is internal insulation. With that, we’ll decide - we’ll insulate our extension from the inside.
The next step is choosing insulation. For an extension, a sufficient thickness of insulation is 50-75 mm. The most favorite type of insulation among summer residents is mineral wool slabs. I will not waste my and your precious time on detailed review the corresponding segment of the domestic market building materials, but I’ll immediately point out those manufacturers who produce the best (in terms of price-quality ratio) thermal insulation materials based on mineral wool:
- "ISOVER";
- "Rockwool";
- "URSA"
- "Izorok."
Price per 1 sq. m of mineral wool insulation from the above manufacturers is in the range of 65-90 rubles.
We sorted out the insulation. But insulation alone is not enough. Here is a list of other materials that will be needed for the internal insulation of our extension:
- Wooden blocks (slats) rectangular section size 5x2 cm;
- Pasted waterproofing (film or membrane), necessary to protect the insulation from moisture. The cost of waterproofing is approximately 20-40 rubles per 1 sq. m. m.;
- Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) 9.5-12.5 mm thick for external finishing cladding of insulated walls. Average cost - 70-80 rubles. for 1 sq.m.;
- Profiled and fastening metal elements(for making a frame and fastening gypsum board sheets);
- A little putty for sealing joints between plasterboard sheets.
The materials are complete. All that remains is to mount them correctly. The procedure for properly insulating an extension is as follows:
- Lathing installation: we nail it to the inner surface of the walls and ceilings of our room wooden blocks or boards (see item 1 of the list of materials) with a step of 50-75 cm (the step size is equal to the width of our heat-insulating boards);
- Installation of insulation: we lay mineral wool slabs along the sheathing of wooden blocks (both on the walls and on the ceiling);
- Waterproofing device: the surface of the installed insulation boards over the entire area is covered with waterproofing (see paragraph 2 of the list of materials);
- Installation of the frame for gypsum boards (see paragraph 4 of the list of materials): on top waterproofing coating walls and ceilings we install horizontal and vertical metal profiles, on which the external plasterboard sheathing will subsequently be supported;
- Covering walls and ceilings with gypsum plasterboard sheets (see clause 3 of the list of materials);
- Sealing joints between sheets of drywall with putty, followed by cleaning;
- Finishing of the inner surface of walls and ceilings (optional): painting, tiling or any other type of finishing to your taste.
That's all! The total cost of materials for insulating the premises of a wooden extension with an area of 3x4 m and a height of 2.7 m is approximately 8-10 thousand rubles.
In harsh climates, owners try in every possible way to insulate their house or cottage. For example, a veranda is installed to protect the front door. This is a kind of vestibule where the mixing of cold street air and warm, from interior spaces. But when insulating a house, they don’t always take into account that a veranda wouldn’t hurt either. additional insulation. Otherwise, the unheated room will freeze and become damp, causing the finishing to quickly deteriorate. With the right approach, the veranda is insulated during the construction stage. But it happens that the house was not built, but bought, and not in the very at its best. In this case, insulation of the veranda from the inside is carried out with your own hands as necessary. The main thing is to know in what places the cold “creeps” into the room and take all possible protective measures.
Usually the veranda is placed on the same type of foundation as the main building - monolithic concrete or concrete plates. This material does not block the cold that comes from the ground in winter at all, so it can freeze through. Heat loss through the foundation reaches 20%.
There may be several options for how to insulate the base of a summer veranda.
Filling the interior with earth or expanded clay
These options are only possible at the stage of constructing the veranda, when foundation work. After removing the formwork, the entire internal area is covered with earth or expanded clay. Land will be cheap, especially if there is a lot of excess soil left during construction. True, its heat saving quality is low.
Expanded clay layer prevents moisture and frost from penetrating into the concrete slab
Expanded clay has higher thermal insulation, but you will have to buy it. You can make a double layer: first fill it with soil, and the second half with expanded clay pebbles.
Pasting with polystyrene foam
For Russian lands, where 80% of the soil is heaving, external insulation of the foundation with expanded polystyrene is necessary. When thawing and freezing, such soils expand in volume and can deform the foundation. The insulation layer will become an insulator, which will relieve the base from direct contact with the ground, and will also block frost. Expanded polystyrene boards cover the entire outer surface concrete, including plinth.
For insulating a veranda with your own hands, the following are suitable: polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and liquid polyurethane foam. All these are varieties of polystyrene, which differ in properties and method of application. The cheapest one - Styrofoam. It retains heat well, but will crack on moving soils. In addition, polystyrene foam draws moisture from the ground, so when installing it, an additional waterproofing layer is created (from the soil). Extruded polystyrene foam Due to its dense structure, it does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of soil movements, has high frost resistance and lasts for more than half a century. But it is expensive.
Before gluing expanded polystyrene, it is necessary to cover the entire foundation with waterproofing mastic
Both versions of polystyrene are laid with outside foundation, excavating it to its very foundation. In this case, the first row is placed on gravel backfill. Before laying, the foundation is coated with bitumen-polymer mastic (for waterproofing), and when it dries, polystyrene foam boards are glued on. The glue must be polyurethane. It is applied in dots or by smearing the entire sheet. The joints between the plates are also glued so that there are no cold bridges and cracks for moisture penetration.
The newest way external insulation – polyurethane foam spraying. It is brought to the construction site in the form of liquid components and sprayed onto the foundation using special equipment. After hardening, the coating becomes dense, monolithic and very durable. In terms of characteristics, this material is not inferior to its extruded “brother”, but the cost of work is more expensive.
With sprayed insulation, the most best quality thermal insulation because there are no joints
To keep your feet from getting cold: floor insulation
Besides the foundation, the floor is closest to the ground. Its insulation is mandatory if you do not want to see black spots of dampness in the corners.
Most often, concrete floors are poured on verandas. If you plan to heat the veranda using a “warm floor” system, then you should take care of it already at the stage of pouring the subfloors. It's better to choose electrical system, which you will turn on as needed. A water floor can freeze at very low temperatures, and you will have to wait until spring for it to thaw, or dismantle the coating to warm up the pipes.
If you were lying on the veranda old tiles, then you can put the insulation directly on it
Let's look at how you can insulate the floor on an unheated veranda:
- The entire underground floor is covered with crushed stone, and on top - with sand and compacted tightly.
- Lay out reinforcing bars or mesh (so that the concrete does not burst) and make concrete screed 5 cm thick.
- When the filling is dry, we create waterproofing. The easiest way is to coat the screed with water-repellent mastic. But it’s cheaper to lay sheets of roofing felt and fasten them together using bitumen mastic(or warm it with a burner and roll it out).
- Antiseptic-impregnated logs are installed on top of the waterproofing, and insulation is laid between them. The best option is mineral wool with a foil-coated side. The foil does not release infrared radiation from the veranda, along with which most of the heat evaporates. Rolls of insulation are placed after all the joists are installed.
- It can also be insulated with polystyrene foam. Then the joints between the plates must be blown out polyurethane foam, and when it dries, cut off the excess.
After this, planks or decking are laid, because both materials are warm. The board must be treated in every possible way to prevent rotting and painted. protective composition. Besides, natural wood very afraid of poor ventilation. To avoid dampness, it is necessary to make ventilation vents in the foundation, which should be located below the floor level.
The insulation is placed with the foil facing up so that it reflects the heat back into the veranda
Decking does not require ventilation in the underground, because it is not afraid of dampness and temperature changes
Decking is also a board, but already treated with compounds at the factory. It is made from larch, which is not afraid of either frost or moisture. Open terraces are lined with this material, so it is even more suitable for a veranda. True, the cost of such a floor will not be cheap.
We install thermal protection for the walls
The walls have a large area of contact with the street, so let’s look at how to insulate a veranda with your own hands from the outside and inside. External insulation is carried out if the wall material looks unpresentable. Those. it could be blocks, old wood, etc.
External insulation
a) For wooden walls:
- We seal all the cracks in the building.
- Stuffing on a tree vertical sheathing from bars in increments of up to half a meter. It is better to measure the width of the insulation and fill it exactly to its size. Then all the slabs will fit tightly to the sheathing.
- We insert mineral wool between the beams, securing them with dowel umbrellas.
- Fix on top with a stapler waterproofing film.
- We finish with clapboard or siding.
After laying the mineral wool, you need to staple the waterproofing film to the sheathing
b) For block walls:
- Glue on the walls polystyrene foam boards with a special adhesive composition, additionally strengthening the dowel-umbrellas.
- We smear the same glue on the top of the slabs and attach the reinforcing mesh to them.
- After drying, cover the walls with decorative plaster.
- Let's paint.
Pick up adhesive composition specifically for laying polystyrene foam boards
All layers of the insulation cake are hidden under decorative plaster
Let's insulate ourselves from the inside
If the veranda looks aesthetically pleasing from the outside and you do not want to change it appearance, then internal insulation can be carried out. But, before you insulate the veranda from the inside, you need to carefully caulk all the cracks (in a wooden building).
Work progress:
- They stuff the sheathing.
- Fix the waterproofing film with a stapler, which will prevent moisture from the street from entering the insulation.
- A metal frame is mounted from profiles, onto which drywall is then attached.
- Fill the frame with mineral wool.
- Cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film.
- Installing drywall.
- Apply the finishing coat (putty, paint).
The distance between the metal profiles must match the width of the insulation sheets
We check the tightness of the installation of windows and doors
Large heat losses can come from windows and doors. If there are old ones on your veranda wooden windows, but you do not want to replace them with double-glazed windows, then you need to thoroughly check their tightness:
- First of all, we pay attention to the quality of the glazing of the veranda: to do this, we pull each glazing bead.
- If they are cracked or loose, it is better to remove all the glass, clean the grooves and coat them with silicone sealant.
- Then we insert the glass back and apply sealant along the edge.
- We press with glazing beads (new!).
Go over the joints of the frame and the window opening with a regular metal ruler. If in some places it passes freely, then these cracks must be sealed with polyurethane foam. Check the front door in the same way. If you bought an uninsulated option, you will have to insulate the canvas yourself inside and upholster with leatherette.
Seal the glass on both sides with sealant to make it windproof.
All places where the ruler moves freely must be foamed
Eliminate leakage of warm air through the ceiling
It remains to figure out how to insulate the ceiling, because through it wooden veranda a significant part of the heat evaporates. Especially if it opens Entrance door. The flow of cold air rushing inward instantly squeezes the warm air upward.
Most the best option– place foil-coated foam polymer between the beams, which will simultaneously retain heat and keep moisture out.
You can also choose mineral wool, but then the first layer is roofing felt for vapor barrier, and insulation boards are placed on it.
Ruberoid is laid under mineral wool for waterproofing
After such careful insulation, your veranda will withstand any frost, even if it is unheated.