How to insulate the walls of a loggia from the inside. Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony

How to properly insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands - this is the question I had to ask myself when the idea came to my mind to turn our ownerless balcony into a home one. As it turns out, I am not at all comfortable sewing in a room that is a child’s room. I wanted solitude and silence so that I could be completely focused on work, and I also interfered with the children’s study and recreation.

In this article I will talk about how we carried out renovations to transform our cold and drafty loggia into living room, or rather to my office and how much it cost us. I will also give valuable advice, which will help you avoid mistakes and save your nerves and money)

• Replacing a window on a balcony
• Plastering a balcony (loggia)
• Costings. How much money did we spend on insulating the balcony (loggia)
• A few tips for those who are planning to insulate a balcony with their own hands

How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands

What I had to face and what our loggia looked like before insulation

When I told my friends about my idea, at first everyone laughed at me. They began to say that there was not enough space there, and they were frightened by the cold of the unheated room - after all, our loggia was essentially an outdoor room. To give you an idea of ​​what I had to face, I am attaching a plan of the balcony. I had to turn three and a half squares of usable space into a full-fledged office, where my two Sewing machines with a table cutting table, ironing board.

The first window has a balcony door and access to the kitchen. This wall is the main one - it’s already warm, so you don’t have to sheathe it. Subsequently, we abandoned covering it with plaster, since the brick itself looks quite interesting in the interior. We just cleaned its surface from dirt with sandpaper.

The second window is located on the wall of the loggia, it required complete replacement and hit the stained glass windows. The photo was taken after installing a new double-glazed window.

Replacing a window on a balcony

The first thing my story with the balcony began was the replacement of the existing double-glazed window. When we moved into our new building, we saw that on the loggia (unlike other rooms) the developer installed windows in one layer of glass. Of course it was summer option, they missed the cold with all their might. There was no talk about replacing the double-glazed windows, because I also wanted to change the shape of the frame and make the opening sash of different sizes. I don’t know how the design of our house was made, but the architect clearly did not make an effort for the convenience of the residents. Therefore, first of all, I found a company that manufactured a high-quality two-chamber window according to our dimensions. As the window manufacturers stated, such a window provides 25% more heat retention in the room than the one supplied by the developer.

When ordering a new window, there was one small point that significantly increased the amount of our costs - lamination. That is, on the street side, all the window frames of our house are dark burgundy, like wood. Therefore, we also had to not get out of the general picture and make a window into the general color scheme. For lamination, window manufacturing companies charge 20% of the total cost.

The price for a window measuring 2580 * 1520 cm with a burgundy frame, including installation and delivery, was 20,700 rubles. And we sold the dismantled old window at a profit on the Avito website.

Important (!)- if you are going to subsequently insulate the balcony and increase the ceiling after installing the window, then tell the window technicians about it. They will put extensions on the top of the window so that later your extended ceiling does not cover the shutters and you can hang curtains.

Heating a loggia, which method to choose

A loggia usually has walls made of one layer of brick; the worst option is a balcony made of corrugated sheets. Therefore, to feel comfortable in this room during the cold season, a heater is needed.

There are two options for making your loggia warm. The first one is to open balcony door so that it is heated by the adjacent room. The second is to install electric “warm” floors or buy oil radiators.

I’ll tell you right away from our experience - one heater was not enough for us, and we decided to install a warm floor. Despite the fact that the walls of our loggia were insulated, there was cold from the neighbors above and below - after all, their balconies remained uninsulated.

Selecting material for insulating a loggia (balcony)

At the very beginning, my husband was advised to do the insulation of the balcony with his own hands; in general, he is handy - he can lay laminate flooring and tiles. But in the case of the balcony, I didn’t have time to wait for him to find free time, the work of a professional was needed here, since correcting mistakes would cost more. So we found a master who is engaged in this business and observed his work from the side. I found him through Avito, what I first of all paid attention to was real photographs and accommodation in our area (so that he could go to lunch without spending a lot of time).

I didn’t just want to cover the balcony with panels, but to make walls that could later be covered with wallpaper, so for internal lining we chose drywall. Finding a good specialist who would work with drywall and install wiring (after all, I also needed sockets and lighting) turned out to be not an easy task. But I was lucky and found a good specialist who promised me to bring my idea to life! On his advice, after taking all measurements, we purchased the following to insulate our loggia:

• plasterboard - for walls and ceilings
• plywood - for the floor
• TechnoNIKOL Rocklight - for floors
• technoNIKOL technoplex - for walls and ceilings
• isolar - reflective metallized substrate
• bars

The most important thing on this list is insulation. It is thanks to this that you get a full-fledged living room. We chose two types of insulation:

The first type, for floor insulation, is TechnoNIKOL Rocklight. It consists of rectangular slabs pressed from basalt fibers, in common people it is called mineral wool. Don't be afraid of what he might do adverse effect to the air in the room (many write about harmful fumes, etc.), on the contrary, due to the ability to transmit moisture rather than retain it, it is widely used for insulating damp rooms where there is a possibility of mold and mildew. According to the Technonikol company, its slabs do not burn and do not absorb moisture, therefore today they are recognized as the most the best insulation materials On the market. In order to cover the floors of a 3.8 m2 loggia in two layers, we needed 1 package of TechnoNIKOL Rocklight, which contained 12 slabs.

The second insulation we used is TechnoNIKOL Technoplex for internal wall cladding. As I mentioned above, the developer built our loggia in one layer of brick, due to this there was a blast from every corner. In addition, inconvenient stained glass windows were installed in the loggia on either side of the window, which from the outside gave the house a business-like appearance, but inside served as a source of constant drafts and moisture for the residents. This type the insulation is made of nanographite, due to this it has an unsightly grey colour. Although in weight and appearance it reminded me more of polystyrene foam, despite its lightness it has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. After our balcony stopped looking like a bamboo hut, I started thinking about how to use these magic slabs to soundproof the living room from neighbors)

The third type of insulation- it rather comes as an addition to the first two, it is metallized substrate isolon or isolar. We all know that a shiny surface is highly reflective. It is this ability of the metallized surface of the substrate that allows you to redirect heat inside the room, as if reflecting it and preventing it from escaping outside.

As a result, I can say that all the insulation materials coped with their tasks with a bang, they really retain heat, like a thermos. But at the same time they miss excess moisture, preventing the formation of mold.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands step by step photo

1. Cleared the balcony of everything unnecessary. Before the technician arrived, we cleaned our balcony of rubbish and debris, a window was already installed and heating radiators were installed.

2. Patching “holes” in stained glass windows using TechnoNIKOL Technoplex insulation boards. This did not affect the appearance of the house in any way, and for us the problem of eternal drafts was solved. The slabs were laid in two layers, all cracks were filled with polyurethane foam.

After taking measurements, cutting the slabs is done using a jigsaw and a hacksaw for metal.

3. Exiting electrical wiring to the balcony. In my workshop it was planned to install three sockets for sewing machines and a laptop; the wires were pulled from the nearest socket in the kitchen.

4. Floor insulation using beams and TechnoNIKOL Rocklight insulation ( mineral wool). According to our master, he likes to work with this type of insulation most of all. Since when placed between the beams, it expands independently and does not leave any gaps, which means it does not require the use of polyurethane foam.

Although basalt wool and glass wool are two different things, I still played it safe and carefully closed the door to the balcony while he was laying the floors. And then I vacuumed all the walls for an hour. Our master, of course, laughed for a long time when he saw me walking around in a medical mask and gloves. For me, any mention of glass wool is a fear from childhood, when we ran around a construction site and accidentally touched glass wool, any of us received a burn, after which it itched and burned for a long time.

First, a frame or so-called formwork for the future floor and walls is assembled from wooden blocks. The slats are fastened together metal corners using dowels and a screwdriver.

If the frame is laid on concrete, then first use impact drill holes are drilled on concrete floor at fastening points. Then in wooden joists Dowels are inserted, applied to the fastening points and the screws are driven in with a hammer.

Mineral wool mats can be laid directly on concrete screed, V wooden frame between the lags. It does not shrink at all, so it is used even on high-traffic surfaces.

To give the floor additional thermal insulation properties, you can build a second lathing frame on top of the first layer of basalt wool insulation and lay another layer of TechnoNIKOL Rocklight in the same way. In this case wooden blocks are attached with a screwdriver to self-tapping screws.

Next, an isolar layer is used - this is a metallized substrate that reflects heat and protects from moisture; it is widely used in creating warm balcony(loggias). After laying all the layers of building materials, we reached the same floor level as the room without thresholds or steps.

Important (!)— the metallized substrate is laid with the reflective surface facing up.

5. Insulation of the ceiling using TechnoNIKOL Technoplex insulation. Two wires were installed in our ceiling ceiling lamps. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling, it was removed under the wooden beams electrical wiring. I really like this method - it looks neat, without unnecessary wires. Electricians have a lot to learn from Bashkir masters)

6. Insulation of walls using TechnoNIKOL Technoplex insulation.

The main difference between nanographite insulation and basalt wool is that it is not elastic. Therefore, when installing it in the sheathing, gaps remain, which then need to be filled with polyurethane foam.

After all the joints have been processed, a metallized Isolar substrate is applied on top of the insulation. It is attached to the sheathing using a stapler and special adhesive tape (connecting tape) - isospan.

After covering the entire surface with a metallized substrate, sheets of plasterboard are attached to the wooden sheathing using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

Plastering a balcony (loggia) with your own hands

After the balcony was completely covered with plasterboard sheets, including the ceiling, we had to plaster the walls. Wallpaper cannot be glued to bare drywall because upper layer It is made of paper and can come off if wet. Additional surface treatment of sheets includes primer and putty.

At this stage of the work, our master left us, since he was only involved in insulation, and the work of a plasterer and painter was not part of his duties. We had a choice - either find a new worker, or pick up a spatula ourselves. A significant role in the choice was played by the amount that the plasterers - professionals - asked for the treatment of our small area.

Therefore, my friends, for the first time in my life I picked up a spatula and plastered my balcony myself (I posted a photo with the result below). But I will say right away that I liked plastering, as it turned out, working with the gypsum mixture is not at all difficult, and if you are not particularly picky about your walls, feel free to pick up a trowel and master a new type of activity! Subsequently (how they frightened me seasoned craftsmen) after drying, nothing fell off, and the loggia became even warmer - after all, I myself responsibly covered all the cracks and joints.

So, to plaster a balcony covered with sheets of plasterboard I needed:

• gypsum plaster “Volma layer”
• deep penetration primer for drywall
• Serpyanka tape for joints
• putty knife
• container for diluting plaster
• drill with mixer attachment for mixing the solution
• oilcloth to protect the surface from dirt (floor and brick wall)

1. First I went over the walls with a primer to improve the adhesion of the finish coat. Waited 40 minutes until completely dry.

2. I sealed all the joints on the drywall with sickle tape. It forms a strong adhesion to the binder mixture, which is especially important at seams and corners.

3. Prepare the solution. I first diluted everything according to the instructions, and then mixed the plaster with water by eye. The second time you already know exactly what consistency the solution should be. I applied the plaster in two layers. It took me four hours to work. I concluded that you can cope and learn how to work with a spatula even if you are a beginner. You can judge what I got from the photo. After drying, the color of the Volma layer plaster becomes gray rather than white, so the ceiling had to be whitewashed with water-based paint.

How much money did it cost us to insulate the balcony with our own hands?

• Double-chamber window with lamination (installation, installation) - 20.700
• Nails, switches, sockets, cable, foam, sealant - 4,800
• Insulation, bars, drywall, plywood - 11,600
• Window sills, window frames, laminate, wallpaper, lamps - 4,000
• Master's work - 10,000

Total for our loggia with an area of ​​3.43 sq.m. It took us 51,100 rubles. The amount of costs depends on the size of the area to be insulated and what materials will be used for this. As you understand, insulating a balcony in a Khrushchev-era building will cost much less than insulating large balcony with panoramic windows.

1. Be mentally prepared for the fact that you will need to allocate temporary space for building materials. All these insulation, sheets of plasterboard and wooden blocks are impressive in size and took up our entire hallway with an area of ​​13 sq.m. It was especially difficult for me with small children, whom you couldn’t keep in place and you had to constantly make sure that they didn’t trip and spread dirt around the apartment.

2. Separately, it is worth mentioning garbage and dust. Despite the fact that all the dirty work was carried out on the loggia, the builder still had to walk between the balcony and the hallway for materials and tools. Therefore, the entire floor was strewn with shavings and debris. Every time after his work I had to spend time in the house wet cleaning with a rag and a vacuum cleaner. This is an important reason why I wanted to quickly finish insulating the loggia.

3. The amount that was initially agreed upon for the purchase of building materials was approximate. That is, in the process you still had to buy something in addition.

4. One person definitely cannot handle all the work. There are two options: find a company that does turnkey repairs, whose prices start from 50 thousand rubles. Or, as we did, we separately looked for a wizard for each option. As a result, for the entire process of insulating our loggia, we needed: specialists in the manufacture and installation of windows, a plumber, a foreman for insulation and cladding of balconies, a plasterer and a painter. It turned out cheaper than ordering from an organization, but I also had to spend time searching.

5. Keep in mind that if you decide to insulate the balcony yourself without the help of a specialist, then you should have the necessary tools for the job at hand. These are a jigsaw and files, a drill, a hammer, a screwdriver, a sealant gun, a hammer drill, a construction ruler with a level, an assembly construction knife for drywall, construction stapler.

6. Don’t throw away receipts; they may come in handy when repairs are completed and there are unused building materials left. Within 14 days from the date of purchase, you can return them to the store and get your money back, provided that the packaging remains unopened.

7. It is better to make purchases in large chain stores. For example, Leroy Merlin gives customers the opportunity to return unused items for repair within 100 days after the purchase. I didn’t have any difficulty returning extra rolls of wallpaper, glue and curtain rods that didn’t fit the height.

Conclusion

I hope our experience helped you on how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands step by step photos. Many people complain that after insulation the loggia still remains cold. We specifically measured the temperature on the balcony, when it was below zero outside. She remained as warm and comfortable as in the apartment.

The work of insulating a balcony is of course difficult and dirty. But how much joy I now have in my own workshop. I have my own small corner, where I can work calmly without disturbing my loved ones, and create in my personal space. So if you have an idea to make yourself a study, but there is no space in your apartment, pay attention to the balcony or loggia. Good luck everyone, bye!

Insulating a balcony or loggia is a rather labor-intensive and not quick process. It is usually performed by professionals specializing in this type of work. But if you know how to insulate balconies from the inside with your own hands, you have necessary tool and are not afraid of work, then this is a completely feasible task.

Moreover, the area of ​​the balcony is usually small, and with proper planning and compliance with the technology of work, and especially using boards of insulating material “Penotex”, this process will not last long.

Preparing the balcony for insulation

Usually balconies and loggias are insulated from the inside with your own hands. External insulation of a balcony parapet is rarely used, since it is not only dangerous in terms of work, especially if you live on the upper floors of a high-rise building, but may require special permission local authorities supervising the appearance of building facades.

No permits are required for insulation from the inside.

Answering the question: how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside? A number of conditions must be met and the work order must not be violated. First of all, the balcony is cleared of things and plants on it, building materials and other things that could interfere with the work. After this, they are carefully sealed with polyurethane foam or cement mortar existing cracks, crevices, holes at the junction of the parapet and the wall and generally wherever you notice flaws.

This must be done because otherwise, with an unfavorable cold wind, even very good insulation may freeze, it will be even worse if it gets into the cracks rainwater or snow. For most types modern insulation materials water is not dangerous, mold does not develop on them, and they practically do not absorb moisture. But on brick or panel walls moisture accumulated between the wall and the expanded polystyrene board can serve as a place for mold to grow. Then on your insulated balcony or loggia it may appear bad smell dampness.

Innovative insulation from TechnoNIKOL
LOGICPIR Balcony
Suitable for walls, ceiling, floor.

• saves space - plate thickness from 20 mm.
• retains heat thanks to its unique thermal conductivity of 0.022 W/m°K (compare with glass wool 0.032-0.041 W/m°K);
• protected from moisture, rot, mold and fire (flammability group G1 according to GOST 30244-94);
• will last long years(the insulation retains its properties for 50 years).

Additional advantages of LOGICPIR Bath: easy installation all year round!

After this stage, you can begin the actual insulation with your own hands.

Ceiling insulation

Technologically, it would be more correct and better to start work by insulating the ceiling of a balcony or loggia with your own hands, then move on to the walls and complete the work by insulating the floor. Depending on the type of insulation you choose and its thickness, the ceiling may become lower by up to 10 cm. If you already have them installed on your balcony plastic windows you will either have to sacrifice the upper part of the windows, since PVC profile width rarely exceeds 50 mm, or use thin insulation material, which will not allow you to achieve the effect you were hoping for. Therefore, if windows are not installed, first insulate the balcony ceiling and only then call a measurer.

Currently, there is no question of how to insulate the balcony inside. Choice various types insulation is great. Depending on the selected insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam "penoplex", penofol), it can be installed either on a pre-mounted wooden sheathing or directly on balcony slab. Insulation with mineral wool mats can only be done using wooden sheathing, otherwise it will be impossible to fix it on the ceiling.

Wooden blocks selected to size and equal in cross-section to the thickness of the insulation you have chosen can be attached to the ceiling using plastic dowels and long self-tapping screws. The distance between the bars should either exactly correspond to the width of the insulation board, or be 30-40 mm. narrower if mineral wool mats are used so that they enter the space between the bars with force and do not fall out in the process further work on your head. It is better to lace them by passing a nylon rope between the bars with small nails stuffed into them.

If you do the insulation yourself with expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam, and in the future you do not expect to finish the ceiling with wooden “lining” or plastic panels (as an option for finishing material for the ceiling - plasterboard), then there is no need to install lathing. Penotex expanded polystyrene slabs are glued directly onto the balcony slab, cleaned of paint layers, using any waterproof adhesive mastic used in construction and finishing works Oh. It is better to use adhesive materials such as waterproof mastic or “liquid nails” glue, since in the cold season, if the balcony located above is not insulated, the dew point will shift behind the insulation and condensation will form there. Expanded polystyrene boards do not require additional sealing of joints, since they have grooves at the ends that prevent the formation of “cold bridges”. But the joints between polystyrene foam boards can be sealed with polyurethane foam and taped with foil tape.

An additional layer of insulation material, which will significantly reduce heat loss, is best made from thin foil insulation penofol or isolon. In this case, the material is glued onto the mounted slabs of thicker insulation, always with the metallized side facing the inside of the balcony. All joints of penofol sheets are glued with foil tape. At this stage, the insulation can be completed, but you can lay a heat-heating film, which is perfect for these purposes and works from electrical network 220V.

Further finishing with your own hands depends on the availability of material and its type, if this plastic panels or “lining”, they are mounted either directly on insulation boards or on wooden blocks passed over it. It is better not to use a galvanized metal profile used for plasterboard structures, as it will freeze and moisture will condense around it.

If you did not use penofol as an additional insulating material, then the surface of the polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene can be plastered with your own hands, after gluing a fiberglass reinforcing mesh, and then painted.

After completing the work on insulating and finishing the balcony ceiling, proceed to insulating the walls. Only the parapet and side walls of the loggia are subject to insulation. The room wall does not need to be insulated.

The entire process of insulating walls with your own hands is completely identical to the process of insulating the ceiling, with the only difference being that you can use thicker insulating material, especially if the parapet is made of metal structures or has a thin wall made of lightweight concrete.

You can also lay a heat-heating film over the layer of insulation laid on the parapet wall, but this is not at all necessary.

Floor insulation

This is perhaps the most labor-intensive stage of work, since depending on the floor covering you choose, from which you will make a “clean” floor, there are two possible options for working: with the installation of sheathing - if the floor is planned to be covered with such building material as boards, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used, or without it - if polystyrene foam “Penotex” is used.

Penotex boards have different densities. For DIY work on insulating the floor of a balcony or loggia, grade 45 will be the most suitable.

It can easily support the weight of an adult without bending, and you can directly lay a concrete screed on it or lay any type of coating (laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles).

After laying and gluing the Penotex foam polystyrene slabs to the slab, just like on the ceiling, it is better to secure it at the corners of the slab with dowels - “fungi”. A layer of penofol with foil up is laid on top and then a cable of the “warm floor” system with wiring and automation elements. The cable must cover at least 70% of the balcony floor area and be 50 mm away from the walls. After laying the cable, the floor is filled with either cement mortar or special leveling mixtures “self-leveling floor”. You can also use finishing coat based epoxy resins, which can be of the most varied colors and, after polymerization, can be used as a “clean floor” without any additional processing. Before pouring the screed, a 20 mm thick damper tape must be laid around the perimeter of the balcony to prevent thermal deformation of the screed.

No one can guarantee that when the temperature drops sharply, the coolant (water) in them will not freeze and they will not burst. But you can become the culprit of a serious accident and you can leave an entire entrance without heat.

Conclusion

Although insulating a balcony from the inside is labor-intensive, the effect achieved by insulation can fully justify all your efforts. Such a balcony becomes not only a place of relaxation in the warm season, but also an excellent room for growing indoor and garden flowers, and seedlings of garden plants.

With the help of insulation, you can turn your balcony into a cozy living space, but this step is mandatory. There are several types of materials for insulating a balcony from the inside. Each of them has its own application features. Knowing the nuances will help you choose the optimal type of insulation for each specific case.

Criterias of choice

Basic specifications, which you need to pay attention to when choosing thermal insulation materials for balconies and loggias:

It is also worth considering the installation features - the simplicity of the process is especially important if the work is planned to be carried out independently without the involvement of specialists.

Foam plastic (expanded polystyrene)

The most common sheet material for insulating balconies. In its composition it is frozen foam, in the closed pores of which air is contained. For insulation, foam plastic with a thickness of 5 cm, for more severe climates it is recommended to choose thicker sheets up to 10 cm.

The material has a number of advantages that determined its popularity:

• low thermal conductivity coefficient, which ensures high thermal insulation of the room even without the use of other materials;
• high water absorption rate, which makes it possible not to lay an additional layer of waterproofing;
• sufficient strength makes it possible to use dense and heavy Decoration Materials;
• environmental friendliness - no dust is generated during operation, no harmful substances are released during further operation;
• hygiene – mold and mildew cannot form in polystyrene foam;
• ease of use and ease of installation - the sheet can be cut into parts of any size;
• low cost compared to other insulation materials;
• service life up to 30 years, subject to compliance with installation technology.

The main disadvantages of polystyrene foam:

• low air permeability - when insulating a loggia with this material, it is necessary to provide additional ways ventilation, otherwise it will not be possible to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the room;
• bad soundproofing properties;
• insufficient resistance to some types of drying oils, varnishes and others chemicals based on petroleum products and alcohols - this requires special care when choosing finishing materials;
• high flammability and, accordingly, fire hazard.

To insulate a balcony, you must choose construction foam made by extrusion, with a density 35-40 kg/m3. Species with an indicator less 25 kg/m3 are packaging materials and are not suitable for construction work. To determine the quality of the material, break off a piece from the sheet and look at the structure. Construction foam has cells in the form of polygons, the packaging consists of easily separated balls.

Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam)

Penoplex – close relative polystyrene foam, but with much best properties and characteristics. The special production technology of this material makes it possible to obtain a porous, almost uniform structure with uniform distribution of air in isolated cells. Thanks to this structure, the material has a lower thermal conductivity compared to conventional polystyrene foam and other insulation materials. This is the main advantage of penoplex; in other respects, the material is close to polystyrene foam.

There are several types of penoplex on the market, which are labeled according to their purpose:

• “Foundation” - designed for insulation of structures buried in the ground building structures; is particularly durable and able to withstand high soil pressure after backfilling;
• “Wall” – used for insulation of external walls, partitions located above ground level;
• “Roof” is a special type for attic spaces; with a high thermal insulation rate, it is a rather fragile material, therefore it is not intended for areas with increased load;
• “Comfort” is the optimal variety for insulating the walls of balconies and loggias; differs in balanced technical indicators for internal use.

Mineral wool

There are several types of this insulating material. It is better to choose for a balcony basalt mineral wool as the most environmentally friendly type with the best technical and operational characteristics.

The material has an impressive list of advantages:

• low thermal conductivity coefficient (only slightly higher than that of penoplex);
• hydrophobicity - basalt mineral wool does not absorb moisture, other varieties (glass wool and slag wool) get wet and change their characteristics;
• good air and vapor permeability - unlike polystyrene foam and penoplex, this insulation does not interfere with the natural movement of air, due to which it closed balcony a comfortable and healthy microclimate is formed;
• fire resistance – the melting point of basalt mineral wool is about 1100 degrees; such thermal insulation can stop the spread of fire;
• good sound insulation - mineral wool has a chaotic structure, the air between the fibers effectively absorbs sound waves and significantly reduces the penetration of noise into the room;
• sufficient strength of the sheet allows the use of any finishing materials; some types of mineral wool are suitable for floor insulation;
• resistance to chemicals;
• environmental friendliness and hygiene - no harmful substances are released during use, no biological life in the form of fungi, mold, insects or rodents arises inside the thermal insulation.

Mineral wool also has its disadvantages:

• work must be carried out in protective clothing - when cutting sheets, dust is generated, which causes skin irritation;
• high cost of material.

Penofol

This universal material and having moisture-, sound- and heat-insulating properties. Represents thin layer polyurethane foam with an aluminum coating that has the ability to reflect heat. Available in in roll form, is easy to install.

Usually used in combination with other materials.

To ensure the level of thermal insulation required for residential premises, the use of penofol alone is not enough! Depending on the purpose, several varieties are available:

• type "A"– has a one-sided reflective layer, used for internal combined insulation;
• type "B"– material with two reflective surfaces for arranging a substrate for a screed or;
• type "C"– self-adhesive appearance, characterized by ease of installation and minimal requirements for surfaces; enough to concrete walls were smooth and clean.

Izolon

Its composition is polyethylene foam with a foil layer. A lightweight universal material, most often produced in roll form and is an excellent choice for insulating a balcony:

• service life – more than 100 years;
• does not support combustion, upon contact with an open flame it breaks down into water and carbon dioxide;
• resistance to temperature changes without changing properties;
• high rates of heat and sound insulation;
• flexible roll material allows you to effectively and easily insulate the most inaccessible places;
• used not only as insulating material, but also protective layer from leaks when pouring floors.

Main disadvantages:

• high price;
• it is necessary to strictly follow the installation technology;
• thin material breaks easily, and damage to the structure leads to loss of characteristics.

Preparation and styling

Insulation is preceded by a number of preparatory stages, the sequence of which depends on the general condition of the balcony, the chosen technology for the work and the type of materials used:

Roll materials (penofol, isolon) are attached directly to the wall. Laying tile insulation (foam plastic, penoplex or mineral wool) can be done in two ways:

Conclusion

The optimal choice for insulating a balcony or loggia is penoplex. Minvata will allow you to get comfortable room in terms of heat and sound insulation, but it is a more expensive material. If the balcony is not presented high requirements for sound insulation, then for its insulation you can use cheap foam. The use of penofol and isofol in combined insulation loggias will allow you to achieve the best results.

The correct choice of thermal insulation materials is the key to high-quality insulation and long service life of a balcony room as an additional living room.

Useful video

Value of additional square meters in a city apartment it is difficult to overestimate. A loggia can be a cold island for storing things or a warm room for living. But, in order for it to be fully used, care must be taken to ensure an acceptable temperature in this room.

Has become the main task for those who want to expand usable area apartments.

The degree of insulation depends on the purpose of the room, as a living room or storage space.

And if the question of whether it is necessary to insulate the loggia has long been resolved, then there is still no consensus on the place of insulation.

Three directions for insulating a loggia

• insulation of the loggia from the outside– the preferred option. In this case, the freezing point shifts to outer side, i.e. towards the insulation installed outside the loggia. This will not only insulate the surface of the wall, but also preserve the load-bearing properties of the material from which it is built. In addition, it saves inner space loggias.

  The only drawback of insulation from the street is the cost of high-altitude work (industrial mountaineering). For external insulation, rigid thermal insulation material (expanded polystyrene, polystyrene) is used, which is covered with a polymer mesh and protected with strong cement mortar and/or decorative plaster;

  Note. In some cases, the decision on whether it is possible to insulate a loggia from the outside is determined by the City Council. For example, if the house is of architectural value, carry out external works, changing the appearance of the building is prohibited.

• double-sided insulation and finishing of the loggia. Involves installation of thermal insulation material outside and inside the loggia. Such a solution is inappropriate in principle, because From the point of view of thermal efficiency, it does not matter which side the work is carried out on.

• insulation of the loggia from the inside. Internal insulation the most popular option, because There is an opportunity to do the work yourself. However, in this case, the usable space of the loggia is reduced. Nevertheless, we will dwell on this option in more detail.

Do-it-yourself insulation of loggias - step-by-step instructions with photos

Simple technology for beginners without construction experience.

Step 1 – Determining the need for insulation

Depending on the future purpose of the room, a decision is made on whether it is necessary to insulate the loggia from the inside or outside, what type of insulation and what thickness will be used.

By definition, a loggia is a room in a building with one open side. This specificity allows owners to carry out insulation with lower financial costs compared to insulating a balcony.

The fact is that only one side will need to be insulated - the parapet of the loggia. As for the other sides, if they border the heated rooms of the apartment, there is no need to perform insulation.

Step 2 – Degree of insulation of the loggia

It is a mistake to think that glazing a loggia with double-glazed windows is sufficient. reliable way save heat in the room. In order to ensure the desired temperature in the room with minimal costs, you need to take care of the thermal insulation of all surfaces: walls, floors, ceilings. It is better to do the work simultaneously, but you can also do it in parts, the main thing is to follow the order.

Step 3 – Selecting insulation for the loggia

At first glance, the selection is not difficult. However, the variety of thermal insulation materials makes you wonder what is the best way to insulate a loggia from the inside.

• penofol(40-50 rub./sq.m.). Belongs to the group of semi-rigid insulation materials. It is distinguished by the presence of two layers: foamed polyethylene and foil, which will serve as a reflector (reflects up to 97% of thermal energy). Insulating a loggia with penofol is more justified than insulating a balcony with it, but despite this, the use of penofol alone is quite rare;

• Styrofoam(2560-3200 rub./cub.). Optimal price/quality ratio. Has excellent thermal insulation properties, non-hygroscopic, does not require the use of films, and is easy to install. The market offers foam with different densities (15, 25, 35 kg/m3) and different thicknesses sheet – 20-100 mm, which makes it possible to vary the thickness;

• expanded polystyrene(extruded foam plastic or penoplex) (3500-5000 rub./cube). Newer generation of foam plastics. While maintaining the advantages of polystyrene foam, it is distinguished by its high density (40, 100, 150 kg/m3) and a tongue-and-groove fastening system, which makes it possible to avoid cold bridges. Insulating a loggia with penoplex is one of the most effective methods of thermal insulation, but widespread use limits its cost;

  Note. Insulating a loggia with polystyrene foam is advisable if you need to minimize space loss during the thermal insulation process.

• cotton wool. Representative of soft insulation materials. Mineral (400-500 RUR/pack = 5.76 m2) or basalt wool (650-720 RUR/pack = 5.76 m2) are good because they make it possible to insulate a surface with uneven surfaces or cracks. The line of insulation of this type includes materials with different densities and prices. However general disadvantage mineral wool in susceptibility to moisture. This requires the use of waterproofing films;

• polyurethane foam. Thermal insulation material that is sprayed onto the surface under pressure, allowing you to fill the smallest cracks. Work on insulating a loggia is carried out quickly, but is expensive;

• expanded clay. Bulk insulation. It has significant weight and can only be used for floor insulation;

• aerated concrete. Allows you to level the walls and insulate them, but the usable area is reduced.

With the exception of expanded clay and aerated concrete, each of the insulation materials can be used to insulate a loggia.

Factors influencing the choice of insulation:

• technical condition of surfaces to be insulated: their configurations, the height of the floor/ceiling, the condition of the ceiling;

• number of surfaces to be insulated. Often the wall adjacent to the room is not insulated;

• climate. In regions with high humidity It is undesirable to use soft insulation;

• environmental friendliness. Polystyrene foam is considered the least environmentally friendly material, basalt wool - the most;

• ease of installation. Rigid insulation is easier to install. When using them, you can do without forming a lath for laying soft wool. There is also no need to use films. Best qualities from the point of view of installation, polystyrene foam has, thanks to the tongue-and-groove system;

• type of finishing coating;

• cost of the project: insulation of the loggia on a turnkey basis or with your own hands.

Step 4 – Preparing materials and tools

For the work you need to prepare: thermal insulation material, polyurethane foam, primer, wooden beams (50x50, for the floor) and slats (50x30, for installing the sheathing under soft insulation), vapor and waterproofing film (for soft insulation), hardware, metallized tape, finishing materials.

Tools: hammer drill, drill, level, hammer, tape measure, foam gun, vacuum cleaner, stapler, pliers, pencil.

Note. Wooden beam can be replaced with a profile for plasterboard. The dimensions of the timber are determined by the thickness of the insulation.

Step 5 – Glazing the loggia

Glazing and insulation of loggias are two interdependent actions. When installing plastic windows, you need to give preference to a 4-chamber profile and a 2-chamber double-glazed window. During installation, you need to ensure the tight fit of all structures. It is obligatory to install a low tide outside to prevent water from flowing in. A window sill is installed inside, taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Installing PVC windows makes it possible to increase the temperature on the loggia by 2-3 degrees compared to the temperature outside the window.

If it is not possible to replace old windows, they can be sealed. It is better to insulate loggia windows using Swedish technology. It makes it possible to increase the thermal insulation properties of windows without changing their functional characteristics.

Step 6 – Surface Preparation

Whatever type of insulation is carried out on the loggia, due to its small area, it must be freed from everything extraneous. It is for this reason that it is advisable to insulate the entire loggia at the same time.

Then the actions necessary for further work are performed:

• removing protruding parts that can be dismantled;

• punching and drilling walls. If necessary, electrify the loggia;

• processing of elements that cannot be dismantled. The metal is cleaned and coated with a primer;

• primer treatment of all surfaces of the loggia. This will prevent the development of fungus;

• cleaning.

Step 7 – Insulating the floor on the loggia

It is advisable to start insulation work from the floor.

Regardless of the material, it is carried out using logs. An exception is when laying insulation followed by screeding under tiles or when installing a heated floor system. The work is carried out in several stages:

• installation of penofol. This is not necessary, but experts advise laying penofol with the reflective side up. Due to the reflective ability of penofol, almost all the heat that comes from the wall adjacent to the room or from a heating source remains in the room;

• installation of logs. Before installation, the timber must be cut to size and treated with a primer. The longitudinal beam is laid at a distance of 50-70 mm from the walls, and the transverse beam with a pitch equal to the width of the insulation (for foam plastic 500 mm, for wool and expanded clay - 600 mm). The beams are attached to the floor with dowels. When installing the joists, make sure they are fastened correctly; in the future, they will serve as a guide for arranging the floor and installing the finished floor covering.

  Note. Installing joists close to the wall increases the risk of wood deformation if it gets wet.

• installation of insulation. Rigid insulation is placed between the joists. When insulating a loggia with foam plastic or polystyrene, it is not recommended to use thick material. Craftsmen advise purchasing thinner sheets and laying them offset. This minimizes the surface of cold bridges. Cotton wool is also placed between the joists so that the material is laid freely, without knocking down. A vapor barrier film is placed on top of the wool to prevent it from getting wet.

• seam sealing. If rigid insulation is laid with gaps, they need to be blown in with polyurethane foam, which is a good insulator.

• arrangement of the subfloor. It is not recommended to lay laminate or linoleum until the work is completed. If the floor is finished with tiles, it is installed immediately and protected (covered) with cardboard.

Note. Using a heated floor system will ensure heating of the loggia, because it is prohibited to remove central heating radiators, and the use of a heater does not provide a long-term effect.

Step 8 – Insulating the ceiling on the loggia

This stage can be eliminated if the floor of the neighbors above is insulated. If not, then the most simple solution The loggia will be insulated with polyurethane foam. It adheres well to any surface, and the work can be completed in a day.

Often, the insulation of the ceiling on a loggia is done with rigid insulation, or less often with cotton wool. The order of work may vary.

Option 1 - frame method of thermal insulation of the ceiling on the loggia

• installation of penofol. From physics course we know that warm air rises. And in order not to heat the floor of the neighbors above, it is advisable to install penofol on the ceiling;

• arrangement of the frame. For work, wooden slats are used, with a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulation;

• the insulation is placed in the cells of the frame. If cotton wool is used, a vapor barrier film is additionally installed;

• performed finishing ceiling.

Option 2 - “wet” method of insulating the ceiling on the loggia

If the base of the ceiling is flat, you can glue rigid insulation to it. Additional fixation will be provided by the use of dowels with a large head. The junctions of the insulation sheets are foamed with foam. For additional effect, penofol is installed.

Option 3 – insulation of a suspended ceiling on a loggia

Place insulation (usually cotton wool) on the finishing material of the ceiling. Suitable for suspended ceiling or finishing the ceiling with laminate or plastic panels.

Step 9 – Insulating the wall on the loggia

Insulating the walls of the loggia is the easiest step. However, it has an important feature, namely: the walls of the loggia are insulated in different ways.

• the wall adjacent to the room is insulated in one layer;

• the outer wall is insulated in two layers or a thicker thermal insulation material is used. Moreover, it is laid in pieces, and always with an offset.

Similar to work on the ceiling, there are two methods of insulation: “wet” and frame:

• "wet"– suitable for rigid insulation and the only one possible for aerated concrete. Often this method is used to insulate the loggia with penoplex.

• frame– Mandatory for soft materials. Without a frame, it is impossible to insulate a loggia with cotton wool. The frame can be made of wood or metal profile. The technology for laying wool on a wall is no different from installing it on a ceiling or floor. The protection of the cotton wool is ensured by the installation of the film.

Insulating the loggia with your own hands will allow you to significantly expand the living space of the apartment: a room previously used as a storage room or drying room will turn into a full-fledged room.

Insulating a loggia means creating a so-called thermal effect around the entire perimeter of the room. This process involves a whole range of work:

• glazing;
• preparatory stage;
• floor insulation;
• ceiling insulation;
• wall insulation;
• installation of waterproofing;
• insulation of external surfaces;
• fine finishing.

Each stage is discussed in more detail below.

Glazing of the loggia

Obviously, insulating an open, unglazed loggia makes no sense, so the process should begin with the installation of windows.

Glazing of the room is carried out according to the standard algorithm, but using an additional (additional) profile to change the dimensions window opening. Framing the entire structure around the perimeter, it is intended to ensure that subsequently the surfaces thickened with insulation (walls and ceiling) do not cover the glass.

Important! Do not try to save money when choosing profiles and double-glazed windows: “cold” glazing using inexpensive structures can protect the loggia from precipitation, but will not cope with the drop in temperature outside.

Learn how to choose and install correctly plastic frame on the loggia, you can by watching this video.

Insulation of the loggia from the inside

After installing the double-glazed windows, you can begin insulating the loggia floors. However, this stage also requires a number of preparatory work.

Preparatory stage

First of all, you must determine which surfaces on the loggia require insulation and which do not. As a rule, only “cold” floors are covered with thermal insulation, while “warm” ones are used to save usable space not "processed".

“Warm” floors are surfaces bordering heated rooms.

The next step is choosing a material for thermal insulation of the room. and its thickness is selected based on their climatic conditions. A description of the materials on the market, their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages is given in the next section.

Important! In cold climates, it is better to give preference to tiled thermal insulation, which is connected using a tongue-and-groove system.

The final stage of preparation is foaming the cracks and voids in the ceilings. This procedure is necessary: ​​it will help protect the future from negative impact natural factors.

Materials for thermal insulation

Choosing thermal insulation materials, pay attention not only to their thermal conductivity, but also to their thickness: in conditions of a small loggia area, saving space also means a lot.

Many people who insulate balconies and loggias still use traditional, but already obsolete materials, while modern industry offers a large assortment insulation materials.

Extruded (extruded) polystyrene foam. This material Available commercially in the form of panels (slabs) or rolled fabric. He has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, low specific gravity and provides a good level of moisture insulation. The only drawback of polystyrene foam is its mediocre vapor permeability. This circumstance imposes additional requirements on the organization of ventilation of the room: if condensate is not removed from under the thermal insulation, the loggia has every chance of “moldy” from the inside. Due to the low vapor permeability of the material, before insulation with polystyrene foam, the surface should be treated with a special antifungal compound, and a vapor barrier material should be attached to the thermal insulation itself with tape.

When insulating a loggia with polystyrene foam, you must remember that it is a fire hazardous material and releases toxins when burned.

Expanded polystyrene in the form of panels and slabs is sold under the name “Penoplex”; it is most convenient for them to insulate ceilings and walls, while rolled material can also be used for floors.

Thanks to standard sizes It is very easy to calculate the required number of panels. Insulating a loggia with penoplex yourself will not cause any difficulties: holes for dowels are drilled in the slabs, and the material is fixed. The hole is filled with foam, the excess of which is cut off with a knife (then the surface in this area is sanded with sandpaper).

Polyethylene foam. This material is characterized by a porous internal structure and, due to this, has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. The surface of the polyethylene foam is smooth: this circumstance prevents moisture from getting inside. This type of insulation provides not only heat retention, but also good sound insulation; Available in the form of slabs (panels) or rolls.

Today, it is easy to find improved polyethylene foam on sale, which has even higher heat and moisture protection properties. Laminated with a layer of foil on one or both sides, it is produced in rolls under the names “Penofol” or “Izolon”.

Penofol is indispensable in humid climates, as it is an excellent vapor barrier and moisture insulator.

Polyurethane foam. This material is widely known as foam rubber or PPU. It has a low specific gravity, is characterized by high thermal insulation properties, good protection from noise and moisture. One of the main advantages of polyurethane foam is the presence of a continuous film on the surface. This is what prevents the penetration of moisture.

Today you can use a progressive technology for insulating a loggia with polyurethane foam - spraying. The material is not mounted, but sprayed with water high pressure on the wall in the form of a powder, which immediately after hitting the surface sticks together and forms a solid heat-insulating layer.

The advantages of this method are obvious: work on insulating a loggia of any size can be completed in the shortest possible time. In addition, the use of this method can significantly save usable space: the thickness of the insulating coating is minimal.

Styrofoam . One of the most common and available materials is foam plastic. It demonstrates high heat and sound insulation properties, is not susceptible to fungi and can be used even in humid climates. The only disadvantage of this material is its absolute instability to chemical liquids. However, they are not used in everyday life, so this property will have to be taken into account only during repairs on the loggia.

Insulating a loggia with polystyrene foam is quite simple: the slabs of material are attached to dowels.

Important! In addition to insulation, you will need a number of other materials. Before you start work, prepare polyurethane foam and a cleaner for it, foil tape, an antiseptic (antifungal composition), dowels with a plastic and metal core, screws, nails, timber for joists and linings for joists, metallic profile and drywall.

Tools needed: level and tape measure, foam gun, screwdriver, pliers, hand construction tool, metal scissors, shoemaker or stationery knife.

Insulation of the vertical surfaces of the loggia (parapet, area above the windows and walls)

Let's consider one of the most simple options- insulation of the loggia with penoplex in slabs or rolls. This material is really easy to install and does not require any special skills. The algorithm of necessary actions is below.

First of all, treat the surface of the walls with a special antifungal compound and a layer of waterproofing. While the applied layers are drying, we will prepare the material.

According to his calculations made on preparatory stage, cut the insulation. To do this you will need an ordinary stationery or shoe knife.

It is advisable to make grooves at the ends of the slabs. Making them is very simple: cut the plane and the end, and then remove the unnecessary piece.

If you live in a cold climate, prepare the material based on the fact that it will be attached in 2 layers, and the seams of the first should overlap the panels of the second by at least 5 cm.

Important ! The minimum width of the insulation strip (if you purchased Penoplex in a roll) should be at least 30 cm, the length should be the height of the wall.

Proceed with the installation of Penoplex. The first layer of insulation is attached to mushroom dowels, “targeted” with a special hand tools. The second layer is placed on the mounting foam or also “targeted” to the first.

Insulation of the loggia with polystyrene foam is carried out according to the same principle.

Insulation of the loggia ceiling

1. Insulation of the loggia ceiling begins with the installation of suspensions.
2. Then galvanized profile guides are installed.
3. Before fixing the insulation boards to the ceiling, the holes necessary for hanging are cut in it.

   It’s okay if the slots turn out to be larger than necessary: ​​a little later their size can be changed using polyurethane foam or pieces of insulation.

4. Insulation boards are mounted using polyurethane foam or dowels. Depending on the specific gravity material, dowels with a plastic (for lightweight panels) or metal (for heavier panels) core are selected.

Insulating the loggia floor

It is the floor of the room that is considered the “coldest” surface and needs maximum insulation. Even if the insulation on the walls of the loggia was installed in one layer, the floor is made “double”.

The technology for insulating the loggia floor is as follows.

Vapor barrier

After completing the thermal insulation of all surfaces of the loggia, the already insulated surface must be covered with a continuous layer of vapor barrier. This will protect the materials from moisture and, as a result, the formation of mold and rot.

Penofol, previously discussed, can be used as a vapor barrier material. You can attach it with glue (by the way, you can also find self-adhesive option) or using a special stapler with the foil surface facing the living space.

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