In this article, the reader will learn the importance of a shovel handle and how to choose ready product, and get acquainted with the manufacturing technology of this part of the tool.
What master would deny the indispensability of such a simple tool as a shovel? Everyday life, and, especially during the construction process - repair work? When the base of the shovel is strong, the tool does its job properly, and few people pay attention to defects in the handle. But if the cutting suddenly turns out to be too long/short, shaky, and threatens to dry out, then it becomes completely impossible to work.
Brief recommendations for choosing a wooden handle for a bayonet shovel
The mistake of many craftsmen is that often in a hurry, they buy the first factory cutting they come across and try to attach it to an existing bayonet. The result is not always positive. In order not to spoil the tool, it would be nice to know that ordinary shovels are divided into 3 types: type P, type B and type U. Naturally, the metal blade and linings differ in thickness, size and require different cuttings. Knowing the type of bayonet shovel you have, you can safely go to the store where they will select the right type of handle for you.
Small tips will be better remembered if they tell you not what a high-quality cutting should look like, but what it shouldn’t look like. So, on the surface the following are not allowed:
- cracks,
- wormholes
- notches,
- chips,
- bitches,
- flakes,
- rot
The product must have an even, uniform color and smooth surface. Allowed varnish coating.
A few words to the summer resident and gardener
As for hoes, weeders and cultivators, the situation with them is simpler. This category of tools is manufactured in accordance with GOST 19598-74, therefore the length of the shovel handle is strictly regulated. There are 3 types of hoes: hilling, weeding and universal. The length of the handle for each type is 1200, 1300, and 1400 mm, respectively. Weeders are also classified into loop (PP), with a zigzag blade (ZL), with a straight blade (PL), and combined (K). The length of the cuttings for PP and PL will be 1200 -1400 mm, for ZL and K - 1100 mm. And finally, the handle for cultivators is most conveniently made with a length of 1200 mm. Now that the technical information is behind us, it will be much easier to purchase a cutting for your garden assistant.
WITH soviet family
Due to their specialization, shovels are required to withstand significant loads. They are not suitable for working in the ground, but they do an excellent job with bulk materials: sand, crushed stone, coal. Sometimes this type of shovel is used for snow removal. Among scoops, you can most often find aluminum shovel handles. Snow removal tools are often made of lightweight, durable plastic. This species has one more feature. If bayonet and garden shovels are usually straight, then scoop shovels have curved handles and handles with a handle at the end.
DIY shovel handle
And now we come to the part of the article that the most creative readers have been waiting for. We dare to assure you that the process of making cuttings for shovels is not particularly complicated or labor-intensive. With a certain perseverance and dexterity, even a novice master can do such a necessary thing.
You should have at your disposal: a strong board or slab, a circular saw, an electric plane, a hand plane, a screwdriver, and a self-tapping screw.
From what you have read above, you already know what defects should not be present in the finished cutting, so you can get an idea of what kind of board to take for the future product.
Using a circular saw and an electric planer, we process the board into a rectangular strip.
Its cross-section will be approximately 3 x 4 cm. At this stage there is one interesting point - you can leave the cutting rectangular. For some types of work, cutting rectangular section may be more convenient. Unlike the round handle, it does not slip so much in your hands and does not try to “get out of the way.” If you are not inclined to the first option, with a hand plane We round the corners, and gradually sharpen the end of the handle. From time to time you need to apply this pointed end to the bayonet. It is better to remove less wood and then sharpen the handle a little, than to make it too thin and ruin the whole job.
We continue to sharpen the block until it can fit halfway into the bayonet groove. During the process, you have already noticed that the groove is located at an angle and has unequal depth. We remove the shavings from the handle in accordance with this unevenness.
The end of the handle also needs to be beveled towards the blade of the shovel, otherwise it will prevent the tool from entering the ground. How to place a shovel on a handle? If you sharpened the block correctly, there will be no problems with this, the handle without special effort will fit two-thirds into the shovel. All that remains is to drive it to the end of the groove with strong blows on a hard surface.
The result, for reliability, needs to be secured with a self-tapping screw. In the absence of one, you can use a regular nail. Now you can add the finishing touch. Let's look at our creation again and sandpaper we process all the irregularities, cover the cuttings clear varnish. The universal housekeeping assistant is ready. If desired, you can attach a handle to the other end of the handle.
A shovel is one of essential tools for gardening and construction work. The handle is the most vulnerable part of the tool and periodically requires repair or replacement. You can buy a shovel handle in a store or make it yourself.
Description
A shovel is a hand tool designed for digging, carrying and clearing. It consists of a tray (canvas) and a handle (handle). It is usually chosen based on its base, which must be sharp and durable. Pay attention to the cuttings last resort. Meanwhile, it is the shovel handle that is responsible for the convenience and quality of work.
Finished products offered for sale in the store are made using special equipment. The production of cuttings for shovels in large batches is carried out thanks to the operation of several machines:
- round rod machine;
- cylindrical grinding;
- occipital
On a note. Finished tools and components meet all quality parameters.
Handle for bayonet and garden shovel
A bayonet shovel is used in the garden for digging up soil and performing all work related to sowing and caring for plantings. It has a rectangular blade; there is a handle at the end of the handle for more comfortable grip. The tool should not increase the load on the back and arms. Therefore, it is important to choose a comfortable handle.
A well-made handle for a bayonet shovel must meet several conditions. The length of the handle, the quality of the wood, the strength of the attachment to the base - all these factors affect the efficiency of work.
Shovel handle
The plastic handle is light in weight, but fragile when bent and does not hold well in the hands, as it slips in wet palms. The durable and erosion-resistant aluminum stem has more long term operation. The aluminum handle is light but cool.
Well suited for a bayonet shovel wood material. Hands do not stick to it, there is no risk of chipping or breaking. This product is inexpensive, lightweight, and can retain heat.
Modern, durable and durable material is stainless steel. This fabric is more suitable for physically strong people. For example, the steel handle for a fiskars shovel has a special shape. The manufacturer made it hollow inside and very durable. The tool is suitable for working with clay and rocky soil.
fiskars shovels
Usually a bayonet shovel is equipped with a straight handle. The scoop type of tool can be produced with a curved handle and a handle at the end. The handle at the top of the handle makes work easier as it prevents the tool from rotating during operation.
The diameter of the handle for a bayonet shovel is made in the range of 34-40 mm. Its length on average ranges from 120 to 180 cm. For a shovel, the handle should be shorter. The handle of the sapper shovel has the shortest length - no more than 80 cm.
There is also an improved model - telescopic. The length of the handle, adjustable to suit any height, allows you to perform all types of gardening work.
Telescopic
Defects in the handle can become a serious obstacle to the normal use of the shovel. Don't rush and buy the first copy you come across. To pick up the right option handles, you should know the characteristics of your bayonet shovel. Tools differ in size and blade thickness, divided into 3 categories: P, V, U. Correct cutting is selected in accordance with these data.
Productivity and ease of use depend on the length of the handle. Usually the length of the handle is selected depending on the height of the person. The cutting should be 10 cm short of the shoulder or elbow bend.
Note! Hard wood is preferred for the handle hardwood: birch, alder, ash. The tree should be free of wormholes, nicks, knots and cracks if it is of the highest grade.
Homemade cuttings
Even a novice craftsman can make a homemade handle for a shovel. If you apply a little effort, then technical qualities homemade products will not be inferior to the characteristics of the factory manufacturer. Necessary materials and tools:
- board, slab or branch;
- a circular saw;
- electric plane;
- hand plane;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screw
Handle for a shovel - production begins with the choice of material. The strength of the product depends on the quality of the wood, as well as its appearance. The most popular and affordable is birch wood. You can purchase inexpensive blanks or look for material at a sawmill. It is advisable to find a tree without flaws (knots, bends, crooked fibers).
Important! The branch for the future handle should be 2 times thicker required diameter. The length of the cutting is selected taking into account the fact that about 10 cm will be planted in the shovel bucket. It is better to make the handle a little longer and then file it down than to make the handle too short.
The branch or board is dried in the sun for 15-20 days. After drying, the diameter of the branch becomes smaller. If you are using a special blank, you can skip this step.
Work progress:
- The dried branch is processed with a plane, bringing it to the desired diameter. After this, the handle is sanded with sandpaper. If a board is used as a material, it is processed circular saw and an electric planer until you get a rectangular strip with a 3X4 section.
- You need to decide on the shape of the future handle. Most ready-made shovel handles have a round shape. To create a round cutting, you need to use a hand plane to smooth out the corners of the workpiece. But the rectangular handle has an advantage - it will not slip or twist out of your hands.
- The end of the handle must be gradually sharpened, constantly trying it against the bayonet, so as not to remove too much wood.
- The sharpening of the bar is continued until it begins to fit halfway into the bayonet groove. When processing the end of the handle, the bend and unevenness of the groove should be taken into account.
- The pointed end of the handle is beveled towards the blade of the shovel so that it can easily enter the soil.
- A properly sharpened handle will easily fit 2/3 into the shovel. Its further advancement to the end of the groove needs to be helped. With the shovel turned upside down, the shovel is hit against a hard surface to push the handle into the shovel until it stops.
- For reliability, it is fixed in the groove using a screw or nail. You can use epoxy resin as a sealant. The pointed end is coated around the circumference epoxy resin, place it on a shovel, fill it with resin again, then seat the cutting to the required depth. The resin should be allowed to dry for 24 hours.
- Irregularities on the handle are smoothed out with sandpaper. To protect the wood, you need to coat it with a waterproof varnish. A handle can be attached to the rear end of the handle for convenience.
The shovel handle is ready.
Note! Protection wooden handle using varnish or paint helps protect it from dampness and damage. However, there is increased slippage of the handle in wet palms, which leads to the formation of calluses and dropsy.
Experienced craftsmen recommend not varnishing. It is better to apply impregnation and sand the surface. Consecutive sanding with large and small fractions allows you to polish the wood and give it strength.
The best cuttings
Handle for shovels and other gardening tools must be done efficiently, otherwise problems cannot be avoided. The wrong handle, as soon as you “check” it for a solid force, breaks instantly. What is the reason? Is it really all about strength, or are there other quality criteria?
The cutting must be the right size. This is one of the most important rules. It is believed that the ideal cutting size should imply the correct height:
- First of all, you need to pay attention to the worker’s shoulder. Approximately for our person, the height of the handle should vary between 140-180 cm. If the height is higher or lower, then the length of the handle must be changed accordingly;
- If the cutting is being prepared for use with a shovel, then you can make it shorter. The fact is that it is extremely inconvenient to rake various loose objects or other things with a long shovel, but a short one, on the contrary, is easier. This also applies to pitchforks. If you are going to use them to carry hay bales, then it would be better to put them on a short handle, but you need to load the bales onto the carriage with long forks;
- If the shovel is a sapper, then naturally the handle length should be reduced to extreme values. As a rule, it is 70-80 cm, perhaps even less.
Wood
Birch is the best cutting
The second rule of a good cutting is the quality of the material. You need to know which types of wood are best suited for this. In this case, the product will not only receive the appropriate strength, but also the appearance will be at the same level. Let's look at the most popular types of wood used for making cuttings:
- Pine is considered the most simple material, the abundance of which on the market is sometimes surprising. On the other hand, it is understandable, because pine is considered a soft material, which greatly facilitates the manufacturing process: the material is quickly and efficiently processed, sanded and looks beautiful. Only pine has one drawback that casts a huge shadow on all the advantages of this wood, like a fly in the ointment - reliability. Pine products are not suitable for shovels and forks, as they will not last long. Over time, the material weakens, the stem breaks at the first serious effort.
- Birch is strong, cheap and easy to get in our country. In addition, despite its high strength, birch is incredibly light, which is a fundamental factor for a tool. Birch can withstand heavy loads long time, does not break even when digging heavy soil incorrectly. Wood processing is also not difficult: birch is easily planed and the fibers are removed evenly. True, birch products take much longer to polish, but the quality of the cuttings is much higher than pine ones.
- Ash and oak – the best varieties wood Only ash is too expensive, and oak is heavy.
Beech and larch also have disadvantages, since they have high density. If you need a quality cutting, contact the best manufacturer quality birch cuttings for Far East. We have promotions, take advantage of them!
How to make a shovel
Difficulty of working normally bayonet shovel on hard and unruly ground is that the bayonet cuts into the ground along only one plane.
Universal handle for shovels, diameter 38 mm
In order to make the shovel more productive and capable of working with large pieces of soil, you will have to supplement it with two small useful devices.
These devices have the form of two side knives attached to the cutting surface of the shovel. When you apply mechanical force, introducing the bayonet of such an improved shovel into the ground, it will cut out a piece of earth not only along the plane of the bayonet, but also on the sides of it, that is, on three sides at once.
To make side knives you will need triangular shaped metal plates.
Metal with a thickness of 2-3 mm is quite suitable.
Mark the knives on the surface of the plate, using a scriber to draw the contours of the future triangular parts. Cut the parts with a hacksaw. The working edges of the triangles should be sharpened with a file.
In the place where the base of the plates is attached to the bayonet of the shovel, mark the locations for three holes.
Now the base should be clamped in a vice and bent.
Keep in mind that you should not bend the parts at a right angle, but make the angle a little larger, about 100 degrees. This is done so that clods of earth cannot get stuck between your improvised side knives and the shovel.
Anyone who didn’t miss labor lessons at school can make such a modernized shovel. Of course, you cannot do without certain skills in working with tools and metal. But your labor costs will be fully rewarded with a rich autumn harvest.
If you have ever had to dig up turf garden plot with an ordinary bayonet shovel, then you undoubtedly understand that this is often not such an easy task.
A little ingenuity skillful hands and knowledge of the laws of development technical systems will help you upgrade this tool and make your shovel more productive. Bayonet shovel, 3mm thick metal plate, scriber, metal ruler, rivet wire, hammer, hacksaw, vice
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How to put a shovel on a handle
TO May holidays the bulk of urban residents flock to their dachas. It is necessary to dig up the area to plant potatoes and other vegetables. For this you need a shovel. But if the shovel is without a handle, it will be of no use. Therefore, you need to put a shovel on the handle.
Cuttings are made from birch, aspen, ash and spruce.
They are used dry, sanded, in a condition natural humidity. It is advisable to dry and polish the cuttings. Then they can be stored indoors for a long time, they will not warp.
Accessories for shovels
If you also coat the cuttings with varnish, the shovel will be more comfortable to work with and the service life will increase.
The handle for shovels is usually made with a diameter of 40 mm. This is slightly larger than the diameter of the shovel hole so that the handle can be adjusted to fit it. To do this you need:
1) Plane or cut the lower part of the cutting into a cone;
2) Insert the handle into the tulle to a length of 12 cm;
3) Secure the handle with a screw, rivet or bolt.
You need to place the shovel on the handle without unnecessary effort, otherwise the crown of the shovel may become deformed. If you fasten the handle with a bolt, you will have to drill it through along with the tulle, insert the bolt and washer, and tighten the nut. Tighten the nut with moderate force.
Afterwards, as work progresses, it must be tightened, without allowing the handle inside the shovel to relax. But it is best to secure the handle with a screw; if it breaks, it can be easily replaced by unscrewing the screw.
Adjust the handle to the shovel, checking the density with which it enters the tulle.
If necessary, remove a small layer of wood from the cutting and check again. If the handle fits tightly into half of the holder, then you can hammer it in without fear of deforming the shovel.
Having secured the handle with two screws, it is necessary to coat it with varnish to extend its service life.
The shovel of American origin, which has an elongated and curved crown, has gained popularity among summer residents and gardeners. It has a bucket-shaped canvas. The length of the handle holder is approximately 25 cm. The curved shape of the holder makes it convenient to use a shovel, but makes it difficult to insert the handle. The problem can be solved if the cuttings are steamed with boiling water, then hammered into a tulle.
Steamed, it will take the shape of the bend of the holder.
Shovel cuttings must be free of knots and burrs. It is best to sand them and varnish them to extend their service life. The length of the handle is 1 m 40 cm or 10 cm below a person’s shoulder. The handle should not be too thin or thick. Diameter 40 mm - fits the shovel just right.
How to make a miracle shovel with your own hands, drawings
How to make a miracle shovel with your own hands, drawings and assembly procedure for an easy-to-make home tool.
The proposed shovel design will allow you to quickly dig up personal plot. In this case, the layers of earth do not turn over, but are loosened very well. This method of tillage makes it easy to control weeds.
Operating principle: we press the stop with our foot, the teeth cut into the ground along their entire length; tilt the handle of the tool towards you; The teeth easily cut through the soil, forming deep furrows in it.
It's better to see once
Let's look at what parts the structure consists of:
Metal tooth
tooth mounting profile
emphasis
pen handle
handle stop
pen
METAL TOOTH
We will make it from a standard metal strip with a cross-sectional size of 5x50 (mm) GOST 4405-75.
From a piece 270 (mm) long, four teeth can be made. We mark the strip as shown in the figure.
Shovel handle - a detail worthy of attention
Using a grinder, along the marking lines, we cut off the necessary blanks. We sharpen the narrow ends of the workpieces into a cone.
TEETH MOUNTING PROFILE
On the square metal pipe GOST 8639-82 we make eight through cuts: in width - equal to the width of the tooth; in depth - to the pipe wall.
The interval between cuts should be the same as shown in the figure.
UPOR
It can be done with right angles, but it is more pleasing to the “eye” if the corners are neatly bent.
You can bend the corners using a pipe bender for a profile pipe.
1. Assemble the lower part of the tool.
With help welding machine We fasten the prepared parts together.
HANDLER FOR PEN
Let's make it by analogy with the stop
STOP FOR HANDLING
PEN
We will make it from two parts (the material can be any).
Let's fasten the parts together.
2. Let's assemble the upper part of the miracle shovel.
Using a welding machine, we fasten the lower part of the tool and the prepared parts of the upper part together.
How to make a miracle shovel with your own hands according to the proposed drawings, we examined in detail in the proposed material.
Yes, upon completion of work it is necessary to process welds with an abrasive wheel and protect the product from corrosion with a paint coating.
The invention relates to the design of a handle for shovel handles. The handle for the shovel handle is attached to the handle in a place convenient for work. The handle is fastened to the handle by a split sleeve, the right and left sides of which pass into the base of the split conical stand, which then passes into the handle, consisting of the right and left parts, using a crimp ring.
This implementation provides ease of use, increased productivity and reduced user fatigue. 4 ill.
The invention relates to the field of housing and communal services, in particular to cleaning courtyards, sidewalks, roofs and cleaning private sector areas (dachas) from leaves, snow, etc.
A handle is known that is attached to the working body using two plates ( dovetail) ring.
Making wooden cuttings is a great business idea!
The ring is stretched from the bottom up (the handle must be pointed) and fastened through a hole in it on the handle with a nail or screw, like a sapper shovel (utility model patent RU 57545 U1).
A handle for the handle of a shovel is known (patent for invention US 6601887 A1), which is fixed to the handle using a detachable sleeve (casing 18), stands and a crimping element in the form of tightening belts.
Handles for the handle of a shovel are also known (patent for invention RU 2070359 C1), where fastening is necessarily done with clamps using screws, bolts, nuts, or patent for invention (US 5529357 A) (OMNILOCK INC), 06.25.1996, where the sleeve part of the handle made for a clamp (cut at the bottom) and is also fastened with screws and bolts (analogue).
The disadvantage of such handles is that they are attached to the handle using screws, nails, bolts, screws and nuts, and even additional clamps and tightening belts, and for this you need a mechanic's tool at hand, at least a screwdriver or wrench, and skill.
Fastening with tightening belts is unreliable. People standing in an uncomfortable and life-threatening position on the roof in the cold, removing snow, especially if the plumbing tool falls out of their hands, are unlikely to be able to change the position of the handle.
Yes, and for summer residents, and these are mainly elderly people, by reconfiguring the handles existing structures, it’s difficult to do.
The proposed design of the handle for the shovel handle allows you to easily, quickly and reliably without the use of couplings, screws, bolts, screws and nuts, and therefore without additional metalworking tools, reconfigure its location, making the tool convenient and productive to use.
The set goal is achieved design feature handles.
The handle consists of two parts.
The first part is this split sleeve, the right and left sides of which go into the base of a split conical post, which then goes into a handle consisting of its right and left parts, it can be a detachable part, see Fig. 1, 2 and 3. But part 1 can also be detachable and consist of two halves 1a and 1b, see Fig. 4. The second part of the handle is the ferrule 2, see Fig. 1, and can be shaped like a flat cone, see FIG. 3, and round (torus), see
Before work, a handle (part 1 and part 2) is threaded onto the handle 3 of the shovel 4 from the side of the free end and moved to a place convenient for work. In this case, the crimp ring 2 is located in the free zone, i.e.
in the upper part of the split cone rack of the handle 1. Then we compress the handle 1, thereby reducing the gap between its right and left parts and increasing the free space between the crimp ring 2 and the split cone of the rack, as a result of which the crimp ring 2 is under its own weight or under the influence the application force falls to the base of the split cone of the stand, holding the compressed split sleeve, and with it the handle, in a place convenient for work.
The design of the handle is made in such a way that during operation the handle is always located above the handle, which means that the crimp ring 2 will always eliminate the gap (play) between the handle 3 and the split sleeve of the handle 1. The positive effect of a shovel with a handle is shown in Fig. 3, where the handle 1 on the handle 3 is on the left (view from the side of the free end of the handle 3).
When lifting a load (snow), a force P is applied and a torque force Pcr arises here, directly proportional to the distance L. The latter is selected for convenience.
With this arrangement of handle 1, when lifting the load (snow) 5, it is easy to move it to the right. To move the handle 1 on the handle 3 to another place convenient for work or to remove it altogether, it is necessary to move the crimp ring 2 into the free zone of the split cone stand, i.e.
from the split sleeve towards the handle. Then we move the handle 1 to a place convenient for work and secure it using the crimp ring 2, as described earlier and, if necessary, remove it.
Handle 1 will be more durable and the fastening more reliable if it is constructed using two split bushings and split conical posts that go into the handle at its two ends, as well as two crimp rings 2 made of metal. Handle 1 is best made from a composite by casting, and the inner surface of the split sleeve is grooved, Fig.
Comparison of the declared technical solutions with analogues and prototypes made it possible to establish their compliance with the “novelty” criterion.
A comparable analysis of the proposed technical solutions with known devices shows that some individual features of devices and operations, methods of using shovels with handles, are known in many related fields of activity.
However, when used together in the specified connection with the other features of the proposed design, it leads to a sharp increase in labor productivity, reduction in fatigue and ease of use. This allows us to conclude that the proposed solution meets the “significant differences” criterion.
Claim
A handle for the handle of a shovel, mounted on the handle in a place convenient for work, characterized in that the fastening is carried out by a split sleeve, the right and left sides of which pass into the base of a split conical stand, which then passes into a handle consisting of right and left parts, using a crimp rings.
Production of wooden cuttings
Production of wooden cuttings for shovels and other hand tools can be an independent business, if available required volumes raw materials, or auxiliary, at wood processing enterprises for the purpose of recycling waste and generating additional profit.
Shovel handle: what should it be?
Wood cuttings are in constant demand because they are inexpensive, environmentally friendly, light, comfortable, pleasant to the touch, warm, and can have any shape.
Tree - natural material, with many advantages.
It is very durable, but at the same time light, well processed, environmentally friendly, affordable, wooden surface always stays warm, even in cold weather.
Wooden handles for shovels, rakes, hoes, hoes and other tools can be purchased at the store or from the manufacturer. Manufacturers of cuttings must comply with a number of requirements to ensure that the product is of high quality and competitive.
Tool cuttings should be made from hardwood, without knots, rot, cracks or chips. Wood coniferous species not suitable for mass production of cuttings because it contains a large number of resin and has a lower density than hardwood.
Wooden cuttings for tools can be different varieties, which depends on the choice of raw materials for their production. The highest grade of products means cuttings without knots, rot, chips or cracks.
On cuttings of a lower grade, the presence of knots in an amount not exceeding established standards, with the condition that this will not affect the strength of the product. The surface of the wooden cuttings should be smooth, not damage the skin of the hands and not leave splinters.
Some manufacturers offer varnished or laminated cuttings, which help make the surface of the wood smoother and protect it from moisture, biological damage, and rot.
Wooden cuttings can be different sizes and diameter, but there are standard sizes that correspond to the standards of handles for each type of tool, which are suitable for certain types of shovels, rakes, brooms.
Typical dimensions of the handles are calculated depending on the loads and how convenient it is to work with them: the diameter of the handle for a shovel is 40 mm, for a hoe and hoe – 30 mm, for a rake – 25 mm, for brooms and brooms – 20 mm.
The length of the cuttings can vary from 900 mm to 1300 mm. Depending on a person’s height, you can choose a tool with handles of different lengths.
For the production of cuttings from wood they use special machines, which perform different types operations, these can be stick cylindrical grinding machines, cylindrical grinding machines, cylindrical grinding machines, milling machines, lathes.
A milling machine for sharpening cuttings performs operations by rounding one end of the cutting and sharpening the other end. For large batches of cuttings, tapering is not required. Mechanization of the production process of cuttings for hand tools makes it possible to increase the speed of work and produce large quantities of goods that meet the standards.
A shovel is one of the most indispensable tools, both in the life of a gardener and in many working professions. During work, first of all, attention is paid to the base of the shovel; if it is sharp and strong enough, then working with it is much easier, but defects in the handle remain aside. However, if suddenly the cutting is very long or, on the contrary, too short, shaky, the wood threatens to dry out, then it is absolutely impossible to work, and labor efficiency is reduced to zero. In addition to the usual wooden ones, there are also aluminum handles for shovels. They are renowned for their greater durability and resistance to erosion. In this article we will talk about how to make a shovel handle.
How to choose the right handle for a shovel
The main problem for craftsmen when choosing a handle is haste, as well as often ignorance, since they choose the first one they come across and already at home there are quite great difficulties in attaching the handle to the bayonet. In order to avoid making such mistakes, you should at least general outline get acquainted with the types of shovels.
There are 3 types of garden shovels:
- digging;
- excavation;
- universal.
In each of these types there are significant differences in thickness, size metal sheet and the overlays, and therefore the handle, must be selected based on these parameters.
First of all, when choosing a factory cutting, you should pay attention to defects, which in the future will significantly affect the productivity and durability of the product:
- rotten places;
- knots;
- flakes;
- cracks;
- notches;
- wormholes;
- chips.
The surface of the cutting should be smooth, even, with a uniform color. It is recommended to pay special attention to the coating - it should be varnish or paint, which prevents accidental splinters from getting under the skin, and also protects against premature deterioration of the material and environmental influences.
Wood selection
Despite the widest range offered by the construction and gardening market, there are several reasons why it is worth making a shovel handle with your own hands. Firstly, for the manufacture of shovel handles in industry, low-quality material is often used, namely wood waste. You can control the process at each stage of production and make a cutting from the highest quality and durable wood.
Secondly, manufacturers often do not pay due attention to drying the product, as a result of which deformation and cracks occur as it dries. The optimal moisture content of purchased wood should not exceed 15%. If you suspect excessive moisture in a purchased product, you can dry it yourself, however, even in this case, defects due to the low quality of the raw materials cannot be ruled out.
Thirdly, the handle is turned as universally as possible using a machine for use with any tool. As a result, it does not fit deep enough into the shovel and requires manual adjustment.
Often, sellers carefully disguise all sorts of defects to increase the price of the product. It is not so easy to identify this on site, but during operation, over time, they begin to appear and cause great inconvenience.
In addition, there are difficulties in determining the material from which the finished product is made. After all, not everyone is capable of professional level distinguish one type of wood from another, but the cost of the product largely depends on this factor.
Undoubtedly, most often, handmade products are inferior in aesthetics to industrial ones, but with a competent approach they will be a hundred steps ahead of them in functionality, convenience and quality. To get a strong and comfortable handle for a shovel, it is better to start with the selection of material. The strength and appearance of the finished product depends on it.
The main types of wood that can be used to make shovel cuttings:
- pine - despite the fact that the material is quite easy to process and, due to impregnation with resins, is not afraid of moisture, it has a very short shelf life, since it is very fragile, with low density. At the same time, a large percentage of products on the market are made from pine, since it is a cheap and easy-to-process type of wood;
- birch is quite strong, inexpensive and easy to process. Its main advantage is its ability to withstand heavy loads. The best option for making cuttings;
- beech - very similar in quality to birch, but requires longer processing, since the resin content is minimal, and it requires additional protection from humidity;
- poplar is a light type of wood that behaves well when processed and is characterized by sufficient strength and durability;
- oak is the strongest of all materials, but very heavy in weight, and therefore handles for shovels are rarely made from it - the tool must be light enough to be comfortable to work with. In addition, oak is quite difficult to process manually, and the cost of such a cutting will be unreasonably high.
Thus, of all types of wood, birch is best suited for making cuttings for shovels. This material can be found without much difficulty at a sawmill or on the market. It should first be checked for cracks, rot or other defects. It is advisable to choose raw materials with a minimum number of knots or without them at all.
The length of the shovel handle is worth paying attention to Special attention. It is optimal when the length of the product reaches the worker’s shoulder, which, according to rough calculations, is 140-180 cm. However, this value may vary depending on individual preferences, the height of the person and the purposes for using the shovel in the future, because a handle that is too long can cause some inconvenience in operation .
How to make a shovel handle
The classic shape of the shovel handle is round. It is ideal if the work involves rotation in your hands. Most of the products on the market are round in shape, but there are also square cuttings. They are less popular and are used solely as desired. In the instructions described below, we will talk about making a round-shaped cutting. With basic carpentry skills, any patient and hardworking owner can handle the job.
Required tools:
- plane;
- wood saw;
- hammer;
- sandpaper;
- antiseptic impregnation;
- glue;
- clear wood varnish or paint.
Making a handle for a shovel occurs in several stages:
- First you need to select the material from which the cutting will be made. In order for the finished product to be perfectly even, you should choose a board or branch twice as thick as the expected diameter of the shovel handle. Carefully inspect it for bends, branches, knots and other defects.
- Next, you should dry the wood well for 15-20 days in the sun. If you use a special blank, you can skip this step.
- Using a plane, you should remove all excess and bring the blank to the required volume of wood, level it to the level and align it along the axis with scrolling movements.
- Thus, you will get a rough workpiece, which should then be sanded. If you have a special grinder in the tools at hand, this greatly simplifies the work. If grinder no, you should first go over the blank with coarse sandpaper, and then treat it with fine-grain paper.
- At this stage, you need to re-inspect the workpiece, since sanding removes a significant layer of wood, and hidden defects can be identified and removed.
- If you are not using a special purchased blank, then you should soak the handle with an anti-corrosion suspension and allow it to dry for 24 hours.
- The final step is to coat the cutting with varnish or paint. To do this, you need to go over the entire area in 2 layers. Apply the second layer after the previous one has completely dried. This process is optional, but it allows you to increase the service life several times. In addition, the varnish coating reduces the risk of getting your hands caught during work.
How to put a shovel on a handle
A lot depends on how well the shovel is mounted on the handle. First of all, ease of use and productivity.
This process can be divided into several stages:
Finally, we suggest watching a useful video that shows in detail the process of making a wooden handle for a shovel: