What varnish to coat wooden lining inside the house. Products for covering lining inside the house

Often, a special wood material is used as interior decoration. Lining is a natural, environmentally friendly material. It has great features and looks great too. It is often used to decorate verandas and simple ones. Therefore, special requirements are placed on the material.

After all, wood is a “living” natural material that is subject to aging. It's afraid high humidity, sudden changes in temperature, various biological pests. Under bright sunlight, the unique qualities of wood are quickly lost.

the surface is coated with varnish, which ensures the safety of the material and its properties.

Those who neglect such treatment may find chips, cracks, abrasions and banal dirt on it after a few years.

What are the benefits of treated wood texture?

• Preventing appearance and rot.
• Resistance to various mechanical damages.
• Protection from sun exposure.
• Increased fire resistance
• Aesthetics.

During installation, lining is often treated with various special-purpose compounds: drying oil, antiseptic, stain. The original appearance of the material changes slightly. Coating the top with varnish refreshes and ennobles it.

Choosing the right product

Types of varnish

How and with what to cover the tree?

Before you start applying varnish, it is first better to familiarize yourself with their varieties.

The following types are considered the most popular:

• water soluble;
• alkyd;
• polyurethane;
• acrylic.

Representatives of all these groups can be used for internal finishing works: They do not emit harmful toxic fumes and are harmless to health. What are the features and performance characteristics of these products?

Water soluble

Water soluble

For varnishes made with water based, characterized by the absence of an unpleasant odor and fairly rapid complete drying. They are completely non-toxic, making it possible to paint lining indoors without the use of protective equipment.

You don't even need a respirator. Similar formulations are used for processing wooden surface exclusively .

All water-based compounds have a polyurethane or acrylic base. They may have different composition– two-component or one-component.

The latter contains only one base, while the two-component one also contains a hardener. Therefore, the characteristics of the two-component are different best performance, the coating he makes is more durable and durable.

Acrylic

These varnishes help wood perfectly preserve its unique natural texture. They will be an excellent choice for finishing the surface of premises. In addition to improving the aesthetic qualities of the treated surface, they protect it from harmful effects, including from sunlight. The composition of acrylic varnishes may differ slightly, so you must carefully study the instructions.

Following it, the compositions are diluted with ether, alcohol or water. The mixture dries almost instantly after application. Surfaces treated with acrylic-containing products do not tolerate excess moisture, so if dirt appears, it is better to refrain from trying to wash it off with water. For the same reason, acrylic-based varnish is not very suitable for use, for example, in the kitchen, where humidity is usually high.

Alkyd

They have almost all the characteristics of the previous ones, but plus they are not afraid of high humidity, and even moisture itself. Therefore, the surface treated with them can be washed without fear.

The ability to wash with water is very important, especially if you have children or pets.

The alkyd varnish coating is characterized by increased strength, protecting the wood even from significant mechanical influences: It prevents scratches, chips and other damage.

Great for use as a varnish. The disadvantages of this drug are bad smell when used, and also sufficiently long time necessary for it to dry completely. It requires at least two days. But this disadvantage can be easily eliminated by adding a specially produced hardener to it.

Polyurethane

Polyurethane is often used for parquet

The advantages of this group of varnishes are difficult to overestimate.

They not only protect the material from aging and harmful influences, giving it a spectacular appearance.

They allow it to acquire completely unique qualities that are completely uncharacteristic of the capricious natural material:

• high resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
• increased resistance to moisture;
• resistance to aggressive agents such as alkalis.

The remarkable characteristics of the drug determine its corresponding price.

The price for the group of polyurethane varnishes is noticeably higher than that of other groups. But you can use this varnish both inside the house and outside.

The nuances of using varnish

Exist important features the use of water-soluble varnishes, taking into account which you can get a more aesthetic and high-quality result.

• Don’t forget to do a bio-corrosion treatment before varnishing.
• Any type of varnish is best applied in at least two layers. This way you can achieve maximum strength protective film on the material.
• When working, the varnish composition needs regular stirring. This way its structure will be more uniform, it will lay down easier and more evenly.

After the first layer has completely dried, the resulting surface is lightly sanded, after which another application is carried out.

Varnish application process

How to apply varnish correctly? The wood and lining must be well dried, only after this can you begin to decorate it. After covering the surfaces, at least five days must pass. There are no particular difficulties in the application process. The procedure is not at all difficult to perform on your own. But it is advisable to use the recommendations of experienced professionals for this.

What you will need for work:

• the actual varnish composition;
• container for it;
• large and small brushes and rollers;
• fine sandpaper;
• solvent, gloves, stepladder.

The surface is well cleaned, dust and dirt are removed. If there is an old coating, it must be removed. Old varnish can be easily removed with baking soda. The affected areas are treated with a disinfecting and bleaching solution. The material needs high-quality polishing. For this purpose, a special Grinder or regular sandpaper.

When all defects are removed and unevenness is smoothed, a layer of primer is applied to the surface, which fills the wood pores. After it dries, a special composition is applied, which helps to increase the service life of the wood. This is the so-called covering layer.

After about a day, no less, you can proceed directly to varnishing the house. It is better to use a brush made of natural bristles for this.

During use, individual hairs do not fall out of it, complicating the process and deteriorating the quality of work. The varnish must be mixed so that a homogeneous, uniform mass is obtained. Then it will lay down in a thin and even layer, and the coating will not have sloppy streaks.

After the initial varnish layer has completely dried, the surface is lightly sanded. After this, a second, final layer of varnish is applied, which may be colorless.

Most finishing materials such as lining already have a decorative protective coating. It is enough to do the cladding and that’s it – the room is ready for use. But in order to increase the resistance of materials to the influence of external factors, extend the service life of materials, or give surfaces the new kind, you can use lining varnish.

Typically, such a decorative coating is used for lining made of natural wood. Of course, a certain protective impregnation of the base is already present, and finishing under varnish is carried out to impart special aesthetic properties and protect the surfaces.

Finishing with colorless varnish allows you to preserve the natural shade of wood, which will not change under the influence of ultraviolet radiation if natural lining is used as internal lining walls on the balcony. This protective coating is also used in the interior decoration of the house (not only on the balcony), it is very beautiful.

With the help of pigment varnish, you can saturate the colors of the finish, and with wood, you can completely transform it, creating the effect of a completely different base. So what varnish should I use to coat the lining?

Types of varnishes for lining

For use inside the house, even on the balcony, it is advisable to choose harmless chemicals. That is, without odor and the presence of toxic impurities. It would be best to paint the surfaces with a water-based varnish.

Water-based varnish for lining can be freely used indoors, since it does not contain organic solvents, which create a specific odor. Water compositions environmentally friendly, hypoallergenic, relatively durable, widely applicable for finishing the surfaces of walls and ceilings inside the house, partitions and ceilings, on balconies, loggias and other premises.

There are one-component and two-component water-based formulations. The latter are preferable due to better surface protection. It won’t be difficult to do it yourself, because the solution is easy to work with. However, depending on the quality wooden base The consumption of the protective agent and the application technology (in one, two or more layers) may depend.

Water-based varnishes have a lot of advantages:

• environmental friendliness;
• lack of odor, which allows it to be used for interior works;
• fire safety;
• light insensitivity (the coating does not turn yellow and does not change the color of the wood);
• high adhesive properties;
• a certain level of protection of surfaces from mechanical damage;
• ease of use;
• possibility of tinting.

However, water-based solutions also have a number of disadvantages. They take longer to dry (due to the low volatility of the solvent – ​​water). Water-based acrylic varnishes (the most common type of material) are expensive. Before using the varnish, the surfaces to be treated should be properly prepared: cleaned of dirt and dust, sanded (if necessary).

Outside the house and on an open balcony covered with clapboard, it is better to use alkyd or polyurethane paint and varnish mixtures. This finish will last much longer, reliably protecting surfaces from negative impact environment.

A significant disadvantage of these materials is the release of harmful substances, since the composition contains organic solvents.

We carry out protective varnishing of the lining

If you want to additionally protect the surfaces covered with wooden clapboard inside the house, on the balcony, covered veranda, etc., you need to approach the implementation correctly painting works. As mentioned, before applying the varnish, preparatory work is carried out - sanding and cleaning.

To reduce the consumption of the finishing coating solution and increase the adhesion of the varnish to the base materials, it is recommended to prime the surface. In addition, the primer will increase the protective properties of the decorative layer. The best choice of primer mixture in this case is also water-based (solutions of similar composition interact well with each other).

When the impregnation has completely dried, and this will take from 4 hours to a day (depending on environmental conditions), you can proceed to next stage interior finishing works. Inside the house, you can paint the walls with any convenient painting tool: brush, roller, swab, sprayer.

Before using the solution, it must be mixed thoroughly. A highly viscous substance can be diluted, because varnishes that are thinner in consistency adhere better and give a less thick layer. Plain water is used as a diluent. The dilution proportions are indicated on the product packaging in the instructions for use (technical specifications).

If in varnish solution If pigment is present or you plan to add tint yourself, then the mixture must be mixed very thoroughly until a uniform color and consistency is obtained.

When working with water-based varnishes on the balcony and at home, you don’t have to adhere to strict personal protection standards: goggles, respiratory mask, gloves. Fresh varnish can be easily removed from hands and tools with plain water. But if the solution has dried, you will need special tools to remove it.

Finishing the interior surfaces of rooms with lacquered lining looks very natural. Moreover, natural wood materials create a special microclimate in the premises. Staying in them becomes more cozy and comfortable.

You should not skimp on the quality of materials used for construction and repair work, because this is one of the keys to the success of such an enterprise.

One of the most popular types of wooden finishing materials is lining. It has a different profile, due to which the surface has different type- from a smooth wall with small grooves to waves different sizes. Just wooden walls They do not fit into all interiors, so there is often a need to paint the lining indoors - at home or in the country.

How to treat lining inside a house

In general, many people believe that it is better not to treat the lining indoors with anything. Maybe so, but not in every climate and room it will retain its original appearance for a long time. If the level of ventilation is insufficient, the wood may turn blue; if it is exposed to the sun, it becomes dark gray.

You can only fight blueness biological means- chlorine or active oxygen, and then definitely impregnate with protective compounds, and maybe even paint. It is a little easier with grayed wood: by removing the top layer by sanding you will again get beautiful colour, but without UV protection it won’t last long either. That’s why they decide to paint the lining inside the house or cottage.

One more point: not everyone likes wood in the interior. It's just that sometimes people get tired of looking at her. I just want a smooth, colored surface. This also happens, and often. In this case, look for opaque paint. Select characteristic effects as desired.

The inside of the lining is painted with opaque paints also because wood in its natural color is not compatible with all styles. But sometimes you want high-tech, for example. In this case, paint with metal particles or mother-of-pearl (for example, Lignovit Platin) is suitable.

All compositions for protecting wood can be fairly roughly divided into six main groups:

1. Protective compounds. Available for exterior and interior use. Compositions for external use additionally include ultraviolet protection, which prevents or slows down the process of photoaging of wood - discoloration to gray. So if you need impregnation for the lining on the balcony, and it faces south or east, you need a composition for external work. Just note that some of them paint the surface pink or green color is the result of a chemical reaction. Read the description carefully, because the resulting color can only be painted over with opaque paints or a very dark tint.

   

2. Tinting compounds or stains. They do not paint over the texture of the wood, but give it some kind of shade. At the same time, a film is not created on the surface, the wood does not lose its properties - it remains vapor-permeable. Tinting compositions contain pigment and can be lightly or heavily pigmented. If you want to have a surface with a pronounced wood structure, take a slightly pigmented composition. You may need a lot of layers, but you can control the degree of “shading” of the wood.

   

3. Lucky. Today, water-based varnishes or aqualacs are more popular for lining walls or ceilings. They can be matte, semi-matte or glossy. Many people have the opportunity to add color and change the color at the same time. Unlike traditional varnishes, water-based varnishes do not close pores - the film on the surface remains vapor-permeable, but protects against dirt absorption. Many manufacturers add UV filters and bactericidal components. Such paints and varnishes are good for balconies or in unheated rooms with periodic visits - in dachas and bathhouses.

   

   The varnish can be glossy, matte or semi-matte, or it can give color - pigmented

4. Paints. This group includes compounds that create a dense film on the surface, through which the structure of the wood is not visible. The group is extensive, with different properties and price ranges - from traditional oil enamel to latex and acrylate enamel.
5. Wood oils. Some are transparent and some have pigment. Unlike varnishes, they do not create a dense film on the surface, but are absorbed into the fibers. Good compositions act similarly varnish coating, protecting against abrasion and dirt absorption. Only oils do not have a bright glossy shine - a matte or slightly shiny surface, like silk. This is a great way to preserve wood. Using specific application techniques, pigmented wood oils can highlight the texture (see below).

   

6. Wax-based compositions. There are three types of wax: solid, liquid and water. Before use, solid wax is heated to a liquid state; liquid and water (wax glaze) are ready for use. Wax protection is traditional and very effective, and new technologies make the process much easier. The disadvantage of wax is that it is quite difficult to apply evenly, but it fits well on a pre-primed surface.

This division is arbitrary: there are many mixed compounds that can be classified into at least two groups. So there are impregnations that can be tinted, and there are paints with protective properties. The difference is in the effectiveness of the protection. Impregnations primarily protect the wood, and imparting color is a secondary task. With paints it's the other way around. Their main task is to create beautiful coating, and protection is a concomitant effect. If you need immediately and good protection and a high-quality coating, take the impregnation without tinting, and after drying, apply paint.

Another example of a mixed composition is oils with wax. These compositions combine the properties of both oils and wax, due to which the wood retains its appearance for a longer time.

The question of which group to give preference is up to everyone to decide for themselves. Different tools solve different problems, and it is important to choose the right properties that you need first.

How to properly paint the inside of the lining: technology

To paint lining in “dry” rooms inside the house, you can use any type of paint. Here you simply decide on the requirements for decorative appearance surfaces. If the lining is dry, it can not be impregnated with protective compounds, or you can choose paint/varnish/wax with appropriate additives. You can paint it only on one side, leaving the back side untreated.

If the lining will be used in wet or unheated rooms, on the balcony, you must first soak it well with protective compounds on all sides, maybe twice. Only after the impregnation has dried can it be painted, varnished, or, in general, given decorative properties. Another point: when installing the lining on a wall or ceiling, it has to be cut into pieces. Places of cuts in damp rooms must also be coated with the compound. It is not necessary to wait until it dries, but it is necessary to process it.

There is one very important nuance that many amateur decorators overlook. If you want to get a professional-level painting of the lining, you need to process each board separately: sand, paint, dry, and only then assemble the surface from the already painted lining. That is, mount already fully processed boards on the wall or ceiling. Only with this approach will the surface of the lining have the same color from any point.

It’s difficult to paint the entire surface of a clapboard wall well

If you paint an already assembled surface, unpainted areas remain in the grooves and recesses, making it difficult to sand large areas. You definitely won't get a perfectly flat surface. The quality of finishing in this option is not above average. Paint finished surface acceptable if you are renewing the paint job. This must be done at different intervals, depending on the operating conditions and the properties of the paintwork material.

Correctly, the painting technology looks like this.

There can be many layers: it depends on the hiding power of the paint and on what effect you want to get. But in any case, one rule remains: there should be little composition on the brush. The exception is impregnation or primer. They are applied with a well-moistened brush, but only those without pigment. When applying pigmented protective compounds, the rules for paints apply - minimum required amount The composition shades well.

Sometimes, even with careful rubbing of the paint, stains are clearly visible. Is not bad paint, and the properties of wood: in some places the pores absorb better, in others worse. In order to achieve an even color in this case, the surface is first primed. You can use any wood primer or colorless matte varnish (can be water-based). After drying, the surface is sanded (yup, again) and then the required number of layers of paint are applied. Only in this case, after the first layer of paintwork, grinding is rarely required, and if necessary, then in some places, more often on a tenon or groove.

Watch the video to see how to evenly apply glaze, oil or wax.

If furniture quality painting is required, there are even more layers: first a stain is applied, then two layers of primer. After drying, it is sanded until the surface is completely matte, first with grain 280, then 320, after removing dust, it is applied finishing layer- varnish. An example of such work is in the video.

Painting wood while maintaining texture

A pronounced wood pattern can be achieved using glaze, pigmented oil or wax. These compounds apply quite tightly, almost painting over the structure of the wood fibers. Any of the compositions described above can be applied with a brush or roller.

When applying paintwork materials, take very little, first applying them in fragments along the entire length of the lining. Then, using a brush or roller, the applied strokes are shaded over the entire surface. After leaving them to soak for 5-10 minutes, to reveal the texture, take a soft, lint-free cloth and remove most of the oil. As a result, the pattern appears much brighter than in its original state: a larger amount of pigmented product is retained in the grooves, and almost none remains on the protruding parts. The result is a pronounced texture. This technique is also called brushing or texturing the lining. In interiors, wood processed in this way looks very decorative: both on the walls and on the ceiling.

The process can be observed in the video. Three samples were painted: two with the same oil with pigment, one with colorless. 5 minutes after painting, one of the pigmented blanks is wiped to reveal the design. To preserve the wood after the pigment has dried (24 hours or more, read on the packaging), the lining is coated with two layers of colorless oil (glaze, wax). In areas of intensive use, you can also coat it with matte varnish.

How to paint lining like bleached oak

Often it is necessary to paint the wood white, but so that the veins are visible. They also say to create the effect of bleached oak. There are several ways:

It’s difficult to say which composition to choose - you need to try. It is advisable to paint the lining with several compositions and compare the results. Effect when used different means slightly different, but still very dependent on the wood. The reviews are also very different - some whitened with tinting, others with oil. Soils are rarely used for these purposes, but mainly because not everyone knows their properties.

Secrets of decorative wood staining: techniques and tricks

City dwellers want to preserve the natural color of wood as much as possible. For those for whom wood in the house is a boring everyday thing, paint the interior lining in some kind of unusual color. Modern paintwork materials allow you to achieve different effects. For example, textured or brushed lining, but in two colors. This technique is often used.

Brushed lining in two colors is an excellent choice for decorating walls

The trick is to apply two layers different color. The first layer is a dark color, the second is a light or brighter color. After playing with colors and the order of their application, you can create your own version. Watch the video - how to get lining brushed in two colors.

Painting in two colors may not be the same. You can make the recesses a darker color, and only slightly tint the face (front part) or do everything exactly the opposite. The result is a striped wall made of clapboard - the effect of a slatted wall.

How to paint lining inside a house: ideas

Painting techniques and methods are great, but how? Just. There are quite a few interesting options. The designers' latest finds are a clapboard wall in a room with smooth walls. It looks creative and interesting. And most often such a wall is made using the brushing technique.

An interesting effect is achieved by combining the fittings different thicknesses- in the photo between wide boards thin ones are inserted. Moreover, they are painted in different shades of the same color. The combination turns out interesting and fresh.

Lining is not necessarily just a flat board with small grooves on one side, which is also called eurolining. There are different profiles, including those with waves and troughs. From them you can collect interesting walls, the relief of which is emphasized by coloring.

You can assemble interesting reliefs from linings of different profiles. To make it look more interesting, highlight the reliefs or whiten them

As usual, in the interior, a lot depends on the light. Several non-standardly designed lamps - long translucent strips behind which lamps are hidden, installed in the middle of the ceiling - and the interior is completely transformed. This design can be used to decorate rooms for young people, creative rooms, etc.

You can play not only with light, but also with color: in the lighting zone, paint the lining in a lighter color, thus emphasizing this zone.

If you have good drawing skills, you can paint the lining. Just don’t forget to then cover the entire painting with colorless oil or varnish to preserve it longer. This technique can be used when

Rigidly defined clapboard panels look great in the living room and hallway. In the same vein, you can decorate the wall in the dining area in the kitchen. Only its quality and coloring must be perfect.

The honey shade of the lining is repeated on the ceiling

Treatment for a rustic-style interior can be deliberately imperfect. These are rooms with a masculine character.

The rustic style will appeal to men. In this case, painting the lining using the brushing technique is the norm. Moreover, the colors are chosen dark

As if in contrast - light walls. The lining is whitewashed and the beams are painted dark. Despite the traditional materials used for centuries, the look of such a room is modern and stylish.

An excellent combination is light walls with the effect of bleached oak and dark massive beams. It's practically a win-win option.

Lining is also used in the decoration of bathrooms. Impregnation here needs to be given maximum attention, but if it is done at the proper level, impregnation is protected from moisture, then there should be no problems. And the interior, you see, is very interesting - warm wood tones combined with bright marble are a great move.

Lining is also used for. You just need to fill it horizontally - this way you can expand the small space. And it's better like this small area look bright hues, maybe with a dark border.

Ceiling - lining, painted with light stain

For many craftsmen completing interior wall cladding with wood, or starting to repair such cladding. You have to choose - what is the best way to cover the lining inside the house?

And, despite what is available on the market today widest choice protective and decorative materials for wood, choosing the right composition can sometimes be very difficult.

Protection and durability of the lining

Principles for selecting a protective composition

When choosing what to cover the lining inside the house with, we must first answer three questions:

• Does wood siding need to be coated at all – or can it be left uncoated?
• In what room will we cover the wood paneling - wet or dry?
• Is it necessary to tint the lining, or is it necessary to preserve the natural color of the wood as long as possible?

It is based on the answers to these questions that we will select materials for impregnation and coating of the surface of the lining indoors.

Note!
In this article, we are not considering how to cover the lining outside the house.
The thing is that completely different requirements are put forward for the outer cladding, which means that the composition for processing the lining must be fundamentally different.

Lining without coating

The very first option that should be considered is lining without any coating at all. And in principle, such a solution, despite its apparent impracticality, has its reasons.

The point here is this: the wooden cladding of a room, left without a protective coating, darkens over time, and this happens quite quickly. And here your own taste comes into play - if the darkened wood suits you from an aesthetic point of view, then it’s not worth spending money on additional processing.

Advice!
Not so long ago, a popular way of processing lining was to artificially age it using a blowtorch. After several passes, the lining not only darkened (as in the photo), but also released resin, which gave it an interesting appearance.

Another aspect is purely practical. Finding a high-quality and effective coating for sauna lining is quite difficult, and it is quite expensive.

That is why many decide not to waste time and money, but simply periodically change the lining - for example, once every five to seven years. If you use inexpensive wood cladding and install it yourself, then this option has a right to exist.

Covering functions for lining

Well, what if we decide to choose the most suitable covering for lining inside the house, then it is necessary to understand what functions these coatings can perform.

For the interior cladding of a clapboard house you need:

• Ignition protection. It is achieved by treating wooden panels with fire retardants – substances that significantly reduce the flammability of wood.
• Rot protection. Antiseptic treatment is very important, especially where the lining comes into contact with moisture.
  For example, when you choose what to cover the lining of a loggia with, be sure to include an antiseptic composition in your purchase list.
• Protection against mechanical damage. Let protection from chips and scratches be your first priority. wooden floor, additional strengthening of the wall cladding would also not hurt.
• UV fade protection. The more effective this protection is, the slower the wood changes its original color.
• Besides, outer covering wood should provide it with an attractive appearance- and this means that we can either give the lining the shade we need using tinting, or simply apply a transparent varnish with a matte, semi-matte or glossy surface.

Typically for processing wood paneling Several compounds are used simultaneously inside the house (see). This is due to the fact that it is almost impossible to combine all the functions in one product.

Compositions for processing lining

Impregnations and stains

When choosing whether it is better to cover eurolining or regular lining, we need to consider different types compositions. And first of all, we will look at substances that penetrate into the wood itself - impregnations and wood stains.

• Drying oil- an option that is hopelessly outdated and is used today exclusively for processing utility premises.
  It does a good job of protecting wood, but within a few years after application it becomes dark and the impregnated wood becomes covered with a sticky film.
• Protective impregnations– used to impart antiseptic and fire-fighting properties to the lining. As a rule, protective impregnations are applied to a wooden panel on both sides, so the application must be done before installation.

Note!
As a rule, instructions for protective impregnation contains information about its compatibility with various finishing coatings (varnishes, paints, etc.)

• Antiseptic film coatings - similar in purpose antiseptic impregnations. Quite rarely they are used inside the house, but if you are looking for something to cover the lining outside, then antiseptic coatings are exactly what you need!
• Stains are used to give wood color and also to disinfect it. They are used in the same way as impregnations.

The most popular manufacturers of impregnations and stains for lining are “Tikkurila”, “Senezh”, “Pinotex”, etc. We recommend choosing compositions for wood processing from trusted manufacturers - even if their price is slightly higher, the quality is guaranteed not to disappoint!

Varnishes and paints

As a rule, after treating the lining with penetrating compounds, it looks somewhat unpresentable.

That is why, in addition to staining or impregnation, the lining is opened with a protective varnish with decorative properties, or paint.

• Varnishes are used if we want to preserve the natural color of the lining and texture natural wood. For interior decoration best suited - they are non-toxic, fireproof and easy to apply.
  The texture of the varnish can be either matte or glossy.
• If you are looking for something to cover the lining so as not to darken, choose a transparent varnish with high stability to ultraviolet. But if you want to “age” a light lining a little, give it a darker shade, then it is better to open it with varnish with tinting additives.
• Alkyd varnishes are highly durable, which is why they are most often used to treat floorboards or parquet. The lining should be coated with alkyd varnish only in those places where it experiences mechanical stress.
• Paint for lining is used less often than varnish - but, nevertheless, it is used. The best solution is a translucent paint that partially preserves the wood texture. The most common brands of paint for lining are “Belinka”, “Texturol”, “Senezh”.
• Wax paints are the best, but at the same time, the most expensive and difficult to work coating for lining inside a house. The basis of such paints is most often natural linseed oil.

Note! How they cover the lining in saunas and baths is a separate question! For these purposes, it is best to use specialized compounds such as “Supi saunasuoja” or “Evrotex-Sauna”.

Lining coating technology

Preparation for coating

Covering the lining with protective and decorative compositions is done in the following sequence:

• We carry out the initial processing of the lining: dry it, clean the surface with a brush-scraper, and then sand it, sanding down small irregularities. In the same way, sanding must be carried out before renewing the lining that was previously varnished.
• If there are darkened areas on the surface of the wooden cladding, we deep clean the lining using wood bleaches (Senezh Neo, Frost, etc.).

• After bleaching, rinse the paneling thoroughly with water and dry it again.
• To fill the pores in the wood, we treat the panels with a primer. The primer improves the adhesion of the lining to the varnish and reduces its consumption.
• After applying the primer, we impregnate the wood with antiseptics and fire retardants. You can also use compositions that provide comprehensive protection tree.

After the lining, treated with primer and impregnation, has completely dried, you can begin painting or varnishing it.

Applying varnish to clapboard sheathing

We apply varnishes and paints to wooden panels using brushes or sprayers (depending on the material and area of ​​the surface being treated). You can study the application technology in detail by carefully watching the video instructions included with the article.

Processing is carried out according to the following scheme:

• To apply the varnish, use a brush with natural bristles.
• Mix the water-based varnish with the tinting thoroughly - otherwise the tinting of the lining will be uneven.
• On the wall covered with clapboard, apply the first layer of varnish, moving the brush along the grain of the wood.
• Leave the applied layer until completely dry. After the varnish has completely dried, sand it and proceed to applying the next layer.

• If we plan to cover the eurolining with tinted varnish, then each subsequent layer of varnish should contain less tinting pigment than the previous one. So varnished surface acquires depth and attractive shine.
• Make the last layer of varnish transparent and do not sand it after application.

Now you know how to cover the lining in your house, and most importantly, you know how to do it! Therefore, if you are faced with such a task, you will be able to cope with it yourself, saving both time and money!

Wooden lining has become very popular these days, especially when it comes to baths or saunas. It is even used for finishing apartments and houses, corridors. The hallway, decorated with clapboard, has a very good appearance. You can find out the dimensions of the lining by clicking on the link. But before you start purchasing this material, you should find out that in addition to finishing the room with clapboard, it needs to be processed in the future. This will give the lining an aesthetic appearance and extend its service life. There are several processing methods, in this article we will talk about some.

Processing lining in a bath

Why do you need to process the lining?

Lining made from natural wood requires further processing, the reasons are obvious. If, for example, the lining is used for exterior decoration, its condition will be influenced by atmospheric factors - temperature, humidity, wind, direct Sun rays. All this can lead to her deplorable state:

• The appearance deteriorates
• Mold and rot develop
• Color changes
• Material deformation occurs

Not even all the changes that can happen to your lining in a year are listed here, without additional processing. Of course, if lining is used for interior cladding of a room, the environment here is softer and therefore changes will occur more slowly.

Preparing the lining

Before you begin the actual processing of the lining, you need to prepare it for this procedure. The first thing you need to do is go over it with fine sandpaper to remove all the unevenness and roughness from the wood. After this, you need to clean the lining from dust; a small brush will do for this. When all this is done, you can begin to directly process the wood.

Application of stain

If you are going to cover the paneling with clear varnish or wax, you will first need to use a stain. It will not only even out the color of the wood, but also preserve it for many years. Modern materials They not only allow you to change the color of the wood, but are also excellent antiseptics that will protect the wood from mold and moisture penetration.

Water-based, alcohol-based and oil-based options are available. They come in the form of a powder that must dissolve or ready-made - in the form of a liquid. Ultimately, you will have a liquid that is brushed onto the wood.

Applying wax to the lining

If the lining will be used in the steam room of a bathhouse, then it will not be possible to do without treating it with wax. After all, when high temperatures and high humidity there is a risk of poisoning when not used the right materials. And wax is a natural material that does not cause any trouble.

The wax is applied using a cloth, applying a small amount in the direction of the grain. The procedure is repeated several times. After polishing, the lining will acquire a deep, even color.

There are various impregnations with wax on sale; they are also quite suitable for processing lining. You can learn the subtleties of their application from the product instructions.

Varnish coating of lining.

Varnish is an already proven means of protecting wood from an aggressive external environment. Today there are many different products of this type. If previously only clear varnish was used, today you can purchase varnish with different shades.

You need to use waterproof varnish, buy not the cheapest one - the best option is medium price category. It is applied in several layers, two or more. Between each layer you need a period of time to allow it to dry. Depending on the type of varnish, drying may take 8 hours or more.

It is advisable to go over the lower layers of varnish with fine sandpaper to remove raised wood lint from the surface.

Processing lining inside the house - instructions

A huge number of people all over the world are decorating their homes, and of course they prefer beautiful and natural materials - wooden lining. This is environmentally friendly, and you will be surrounded by natural beauty, and such material not only creates a beautiful impression, it also affects the favorable microclimate in the room.

But in order for this natural material to serve for a long time, it needs to be looked after, and most importantly, this needs to be done correctly. You can't take it and paint it regular paint- you will ruin all the attractiveness, the material will stop breathing, and through a short time the paint will begin to crumble.

The interior of the house includes a full set of works based on four stages:

• Preparation.
• Primer.
• Protection.
• Decorative painting

Preparing the lining for painting

If you use eurolining, then you can skip this step, because European manufacturers operate according to special standards, which require the mandatory primary treatment of decorative wood panels with protective compounds.

For those who bought a standard lining domestic production or will install not new, but previously treated lining, this stage is required.

Preparation of new lining

Preparing a new wooden lining that you purchased from one of the building materials stores includes the following activities:

• A batch of lining, as a rule, allows up to 10% regrading, which means that the first-grade material may contain a small amount of second-grade board. In order not to disturb the integrity of the surface, the material must be carefully examined and sorted.
• The lining that you purchased before installation should be perfectly dry. It should also lie down in the room where installation will be carried out for 2-3 days so that its temperature evens out.
• Elimination of defects. Defects on the surface of the lining include unevenness, blue or white spots, and knots. You don’t have to touch part of the defective lining, because during the work you will need a short piece of material - for finishing above the doors and windows, and you will have something to cut from. But before installation, the front surfaces of the material must be cleaned of stains using bleaching.

Important!!! It is recommended to use a good bleach for this job. Grease stains can be removed by degumming; to do this, wipe them with a 25% acetone solution. You can use sandpaper or a wire brush to remove small protrusions.

Unfortunately, painting wooden lining is not a process that can be performed only once during its entire life. This procedure must be repeated periodically.

Before painting or varnishing the lining, it is necessary to pre-treat its surface.

As a rule, repainting the lining is necessary in the following cases:

1. the bottom layer of paint has peeled off;
2. the lining has lost its color;
3. paint or varnish has lost its shine;
4. a significant defect has appeared on the surface, for example, fungal damage;
5. The existing color of the lining is not suitable for the new interior of the house.

How to clean lining from varnish, paint and dirt?
Remove from the surface of the lining old varnish or paint in two ways:

• Chemically. Includes the use of various synthetic liquids and forms - removers and softeners, which help the paint peel off the surface. Keep in mind that chemical method quite aggressive. After removing the top layer, the lining should be washed with water or wiped with white spirit.

Important!!! To carry out activities using these means, the room must be well ventilated and you must have personal protection.

• Mechanical. In this case, the top layer is removed using a metal brush, scraper or construction hair dryer and a spatula. To completely remove paint from wood, you can treat the surface with a soda solution. The big disadvantage of this method is the possibility of damage smooth surface brush or scraper.

Important!!! If you can't decide which surface cleaning method is best, consider these tips:

• The mechanical method of cleaning lining is the most suitable for removing oil paint.
• If you plan to coat the surface with a transparent varnish after cleaning, then it is more profitable to prefer a mechanical method, because washes can unevenly whiten the lining.

If there are deep defects in some places in the material, they must be repaired using wood putties.

To give a unified structure wooden covering The primer is applied with a gun or brush.

If you apply primer before painting, this will give the wooden lining several undeniable advantages:

• will improve the “adhesion” to the future surface layer - varnish or paint;
• protects the wood from moisture penetration;
• will close the pores, allowing you to apply finishing coat more evenly;
• will reduce the consumption of decorative coating - paint or varnish.

Important!!! Some types of wood, such as pine or spruce, can release resin for quite a long time. To avoid this, the lining must be treated with a special primer that will close the wood pores.

Types of primers for lining
The types of primer depend on the composition. In the modern building materials market you can find the following types primer coating:

• Alkyd. This coating is suitable for both outdoor and internal use. The material is adapted to different tree species, so the choice here is very diverse.
• Acrylic. This composition is reliable protection against all damage except rot and rust. This primer is suitable for use when carrying out internal repair work.
• Polystyrene primers. Due to high toxicity, suitable only for work on outdoors.
• Primer with PVA glue. This option is deservedly popular; a PVA glue solution is prepared in a ratio of 10 drops of glue per 100 ml of water, applied in two layers. This is necessary in order to avoid the appearance of unprimed areas, which will only be visible after complete drying.

Important!!! Disadvantages of the latter method: a whitish coating may appear on the wooden paneling; such whiteness is not visible on raw wood, but on a tinted surface it is very noticeable. It also partially hides the structure of the wood.

• Gelatin primer. As a primer, some recommend using food gelatin. Gelatin is soaked in cold water in a ratio of 1 part gelatin to 2 parts water, then heat in a water bath until the granules are completely dissolved. Cool the composition until slightly thickened and apply it to the lining in 2-3 layers.

Important!!! Compositions from the following manufacturers are deservedly considered the best industrial chemicals for priming when restoring lining:

• Tikkurila;
• Belinka;
• Lakra;
• Pinotex.

In order to protect the surface from scratches and other damage, it must be coated with special chemical compounds. These products are designed to protect wood from moisture, rot, fungal infections, pests and ultraviolet rays.

Methods and means for protecting wood

The specificity of such protective agents is that they become invisible when they dry and penetrate deeply into the structure of the tree. The use of such forms is very important stage in protecting the lining. Eurolining manufacturers do this during pre-sale preparation.

Important!!! It is better to protect and process the lining on both sides. The ends of the material should be given special attention. This is due to the fact that after installation end side not painted over.

You can choose the following solutions to protect the material inside the house:

Fire retardants. Compounds that form the basis of aqueous salt solutions. They are designed to protect wood products from fire.

Important!!! Used by you decorative elements made of wood, it is necessary to increase fire resistance.

Antiseptics. This chemical compounds, which have an active antifungal effect. They are designed to protect the lining from the biological activity of various fungi and pests.

Important!!! Before installation, the lining must be treated with an antiseptic. This is due to the fact that the reverse side of the plank, ends, and locks also need to be treated with this product.

Selecting a Finish

Natural resins, oils and waxes

IN last years people are becoming more and more inclined to choose natural or so-called natural materials. However, you should know that manufacturers and sellers can simply lure their customers with this weakness. The reason is the very vague boundary between “natural” and “synthetic” coatings: natural is supposed to be made from raw materials derived from renewable sources, and only minor chemical changes to those raw materials are allowed. The product must also be biodegradable and its production, use and disposal must not have a negative impact on the environment.

In general, we can say that buyers are mistaken when they believe that natural substances are always completely harmless. And among them there are those that are toxic and dangerous to human health. Many of the substances that plants contain are deadly.

Of course, such dangerous compounds do not exist in natural coatings, but you should be aware that “natural” or “bio” alone does not ensure complete safety for your health. It should also be emphasized that ordinary natural finishes, compared to synthetic paints and varnishes, have lower physicochemical characteristics, and they need to be restored more often.

Natural oils that are most often used for surface treatment are:

• linen;
• tung;
• castor;
• hydrogenated;
• hemp;

The drying time of natural, unprocessed linseed oil is very long - more than a week, so it is not convenient for practical use. Thus, a special varnish is made from it, containing heat-treated linseed oil, and drier is added to it to speed up curing.

The most famous natural wax is beeswax, but it is quite soft for practical use. Therefore, surface treatment waxes always include so-called carnauba wax, which increases the final hardness.

Paraffin is a synthetic product of petroleum distillation; its physical properties are also very similar to wax - but of course it is not a natural product.

Natural wood finishes often include various natural resins, such as shellac, sandarac or rosin, as one of their ingredients.

Nitrocellulose coatings

The binder for these coatings is nitrocellulose, obtained by nitration of natural polymers - cellulose. Thanks to the quality of nitrocellulose (NC) varnishes, we are able to include them in our list of natural materials.

NC varnishes contain acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, ethanol, aromatic alcohols, and the like as solvents and thinners. Rejection physically occurs simultaneously with the volatilization of these substances. Nitrocellulose varnishes - when used on a finished surface - are often superior to more modern varnishes, but they also have main drawback: weaker resistance to some solvents - for example, acetone.

During its production, it is important to have a high content of volatile organic solvents and, as a result, an inadequate impact on the environment.

Polyester varnishes

Polyester (PE) varnishes were popular in the old days because their main feature is strength - (hardness, elasticity), ability to achieve glossy surfaces... But today they are little used, as they contain styrene, which is very harmful. And they are not attached to a wooden surface very well, especially on small parts.

Polyurethane varnishes

Polyurethane varnishes are the products from which water-based varnishes are made. We can find them on sale in various forms - one-component and most often two-component. These varnishes are durable, with good elasticity, good adhesion, durability, high water resistance and chemical resistance.

Unfortunately, many polyurethane varnishes may change color when exposed to ultraviolet light. As for using them for floor coverings or furniture, this is an excellent material.

One-part polyurethane varnishes contain 20 to 30 percent dry matter and are essentially a fusion of a PU prepolymer, they become hard by absorbing moisture from the air, allowing them to react chemically with carbon dioxide.

One-component PU varnishes are universal and easy to use and should be used in thin layer(from 80 to 100 g per square meter), since otherwise the surface quality will be poor.

Polycondensation varnishes with acid binders

These varnishes are also called “acid-resistant varnishes” or “acid-resistant varnishes” in everyday speech. They contain formaldehyde resins as binders. Rejection is physicochemical, that is, it refers to the disappearance of volatile components and the polycondensation reaction.

The catalyst that speeds up the reaction is the organic acid on which this coating group is applied. These varnishes themselves are hard and brittle, so alkyd and other resins are often added to them.

Polyacrylic varnishes

The binder is polyacrylates, from which water-based varnish is made. When combined with polyurethane binders, they are also very popular as an indoor treatment.

There are many different derivatives of this material - from physically drying, which are thermoplastic to those modified compositions intended for curing with ultraviolet rays.

Alkyd varnishes

Alkyd resins are rarely used in indoor applications since they are most often applied to metals. However, alkyd binders Increasingly used to protect wood outdoors, as well as transparent glazing based on organic solvents.

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