What kind of insulation is needed for an attic. Review of the best materials for attic insulation

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Proper insulation The attic from the inside allows you to use the room all year round, in addition, it helps to significantly save on heating and energy costs for heating the building as a whole.

Options for attic insulation depend on the stage of construction of the house. In the article we will figure out how to properly perform thermal insulation, the best way to insulate the premises, and offer step-by-step instructions on how to insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands.

How to insulate an attic floor

How to properly insulate a reinforced concrete floor

To insulate the floor, first we clean the slab of debris and dust, and seal the cracks and uneven areas with cement-sand mortar. Next, we waterproof the slab using the coating method. bitumen mastic on 2 layers, or lay roofing felt, the joints should overlap and hermetically glued blowtorch– this will protect the insulation from condensation.

We lay insulation on the floor, it can be mineral or basalt wool, expanded clay, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, etc. Insulation is laid on the insulation, then a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 600*600 mm or more, made of reinforcement with a cross-section of up to 6 mm.

The fittings are poured cement screed, after this you can begin finishing the floor; the material is selected depending on the design of the attic.

Photo of floor insulation in the attic, the insulation layer should fit snugly against the joists

How to make floor insulation over a wooden floor

Before you insulate wooden floor in the attic, be sure to treat the old coating with a fire-resistant compound and antiseptics. Next, for insulation, logs are made of 100*100 mm timber, in increments of 500-600 mm. The joists are sheathed waterproofing membrane, and on top of it, between the beams, the insulation is laid very tightly, all gaps should be sealed with polyurethane foam. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier, always with an overlap of 150 mm. Sheet material can be mounted on top: plywood, chipboard, OSB, on which it is laid fine finishing, or cover it with a floorboard for painting.

How to insulate an attic ceiling

Hemming is extremely rare, since this is already a low room. But if such a need arose, in mind severe frosts, or the features require it, then, first of all, it is necessary to stretch a vapor barrier membrane along the perimeter of the future ceiling. Next, we install a sheathing made of wooden bars or metal profiles, with a cell of 600*600 mm. We place insulation inside the sheathing, mineral wool. The lathing is covered with another layer of vapor barrier, then you can line the ceiling with facing materials.

Lathing for insulating the attic ceiling

Advice: If the attic is planned to be insulated with slab materials, then they are attached on top of the sheathing. The frame should be reinforced with stiffeners so that the sheathing does not sag due to the weight of the insulation.

Which insulation to choose for the attic

The question of what is the best way to insulate an attic from the inside is a very pressing one, and reviews on forums vary radically; each material has its undoubted advantages, as well as disadvantages.

Styrofoam

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam is the most cost-effective option to keep the room warm. To insulate the attic space, you will need a layer of foam plastic with a thickness of at least 100 mm. This is an almost weightless material, easy to install, suitable for insulation and. But it burns, becomes infected with mold, and in addition, rodents use it to organize their passages throughout the house. Despite the fact that this method of insulation has stood the test of time, the question of whether it is worth insulating the attic with polystyrene foam, reviews vary from “in no case” to “only polystyrene foam,” remains open. We invite you to watch the instructions, which tell you in detail how to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam; the video clearly demonstrates all the advantages and disadvantages of working with this material.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Insulation of the attic floor with extruded polystyrene foam is usually carried out from the outside of the building. Although many people think of this material as foam, their chemical composition is very different. Expanded polystyrene tolerates chemical influences well, has a thermal conductivity lower than that of polystyrene foam, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through. Even if water has penetrated the surface of the insulation, the material will retain its thermal insulation characteristics during freezing and thawing. Expanded polystyrene has different densities; the higher this indicator, the heavier the insulation; the lower the density, the better the heat and sound insulation properties. But extruded polystyrene foam is destroyed upon contact with complex carbohydrates, and it is also deformed from ultraviolet rays Therefore, it is not recommended to use nitro-based paints.

Watch the video on how to insulate an attic with your own hands using extruded polystyrene foam

Penofol

Insulating the attic with penofol is financially expensive compared to polystyrene foam. This is a new roll insulation that is a competitor to mineral wool. It has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, a good thermal insulator, and is resistant to moisture. Huge advantage penofol - it protects the room from the effects of radioactive substances, but does not tolerate mechanical loads well, and requires skills when laying the thermal insulation layer; violation of the technology leads to a deterioration in the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation.

Spraying polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation made by spraying polyurethane foam has no joints and, therefore, cold bridges. Such insulation does not require costs for preliminary preparation attics for thermal insulation, the material is poured to the thickness of the attic rafters or more. The insulation is sprayed directly onto the walls, floor, and ceiling using special equipment. Polyurethane foam is resistant to fungi, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through, but does not tolerate the effects of esters and concentrated acids.

Ecowool

Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose, and 20% antiseptics and fire retardant additives. When using this material to insulate an attic, you need to take into account the volume, since the insulation is greatly loosened. To perform high-quality insulation of the attic with ecowool, you should apply a layer about 200 mm thick. This is an environmentally friendly insulation material that is applied to surfaces like papier-mâché, by hand or mechanized way, does not form joints. It has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, is resistant to fungi and bacteria, and practically does not burn. Installation of the thermal insulation layer requires knowledge of application technology and professional skills.

Insulation with ecowool, this method of thermal protection requires skills and knowledge of the technology of applying material to surfaces

Mineral wool

Using mineral wool for insulation is the most popular way to keep heat in the attic. Depending on the composition and density of the wool, it can be placed in a spacer or in a special frame. Mineral wool does not rot, but absorbs moisture, because of this its thermal insulation characteristics are reduced, and the insulation saturated with moisture becomes noticeably heavier, which puts significant loads on the rafters and roof of the attic. When insulating with mineral wool, there is practically no waste left and it is easy to cut. To insulate the attic floor, a layer 100-200 mm thick is required, depending on design features structure. When working with mineral wool, you should wear a protective suit and goggles.

Insulation of the attic, video instructions on how to properly lay a thermal insulation layer of mineral wool

Sawdust

I would like not to leave the old grandfather's and almost free way insulation. Construction of a thermal insulation cake using sawdust. This is an environmentally friendly, time-tested method of insulation. Sawdust is mixed with lime and an insulating layer 100 mm thick is laid. Such thermal insulation is several times inferior to modern insulation; in addition, it is a fire hazardous insulation method. But if this country house, and according to the design the attic is cold unheated room, then this method of insulation is completely justified.

To insulate the attic, you can use both traditional materials and modern insulation materials, the main thing is to correctly calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

The market is now represented huge selection insulation: rockwool stone wool, slab foam, backfill, plates, mats, etc. Which insulation is better for the attic depends on which room should be insulated: if it warm attic, then basalt wool, polyurethane foam have advantages, and if it’s cold, polystyrene foam and sawdust. The second criterion for choosing insulation is how much you are willing to spend on thermal insulation. It is believed that universal insulation materials cannot be in principle, each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. We tried to select for you as much as possible useful tips How to insulate an attic, video materials will help you understand the intricacies of thermal insulation with each specific material.

Subtleties of insulation and hydro-vapor barrier of the attic

How to install insulation correctly?

When thinking about how to insulate the attic floor, we often lose sight of important things. For example, how correctly the material was laid plays a big role in the effectiveness of insulation.

  • The material should be laid in two layers, with the second covering the seams and joints of the first.
  • The thickness of the rafter legs and the first layer of insulation should be the same. Otherwise, the slabs of the second layer will get bent, which will lead to a loss of joint density.
  • The width of the insulation should be equal to the distance between rafter legs. This way the slabs will lie flat, with complete abutment, and the insulation of the attic floor from the inside will be complete.

The second layer of insulation does not stay in place, what should I do?

There are usually no problems with insulating the attic with slab materials - they fit between the battens of the counter lathing at a loss. Rolled types are soft, they sag and, as a result, fall out of their place. A logical question arises: how to properly insulate an attic with your own hands so that everything is securely fixed? The problem is solved with nails and synthetic cord:

  • We hammer small nails along the edges of the counter batten slats.
  • The cord is tied to the topmost nail.
  • The material is put into place and secured with a cord, overlapping from one slat to the other.

We work like this until we finish insulating the attic with our own hands.

How to insulate walls under roof slopes?

If interior walls residential attic sloping roof made vertical, in addition to choosing how to insulate the attic walls from the inside, you are faced with another task: placing the insulating material. There is no need to do this directly along the roof slopes. The insulation is placed on panels that will serve as walls future room. And so that the material does not fall into the space under the roof, with reverse side The boards are hemmed with scraps of boards. Insulating walls from the inside, the photo of which you see below, is done in exactly this way.

Is it possible to replace floor vapor protection with moisture protection?

Typically, the insulation of an attic floor in a country house consists of a layer of waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier. The idea of ​​installing a moisture barrier instead of a vapor barrier seems logical - protecting the floor from spilled water. Not so simple. The insulation works as long as it is dry. Thermal insulation values ​​decrease with increasing humidity levels.

If we flood a floor with a vapor barrier, the water will sooner or later evaporate, and the insulation will restore its properties. When there is moisture protection on top, and water somehow gets inside the ceiling, there will be no escape for the moisture. We get: lack of floor insulation in the attic floor and the presence, over time, of mold underneath.

How to properly install a vapor barrier?

Insulating an attic floor from the inside can never be done without installing vapor barrier membranes. This process has its own nuances:

  • Foil membranes are installed with the shiny side into the room.
  • The positioning of conventional fiberglass sheets is determined by touch - the smooth side towards the insulation, the rough side towards the room.
  • Installation of any vapor barrier sheets is carried out in strips, in a horizontal direction, from bottom to top.

These rules apply to the insulation of the attic floor both along the roof slopes and gables.

How wide should the ventilation gap be between the roof and the insulation layer?

The width of the ventilation gap depends on the type of roofing material, and not on what you are going to use to insulate the attic from the inside:

  • Bituminous shingles, roll materials, asbestos cement sheets, galvanized steel - there must be at least 50 mm under them.
  • Any corrugated sheets such as metal tiles, profiled galvanized steel - from the roofing material to the attic insulation layer from the inside, leave a gap of 25 mm.

How to avoid mistakes when insulating an attic with polystyrene foam?

  • Do not use mushroom dowels when insulating the attic with polystyrene foam. Reviews usually do not reflect this, but multiple cold bridges resulting in the process increase heat loss.
  • When thinking about how to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam, remember that for wooden surfaces this material is not suitable.
  • Avoid using polyurethane foam to fill gaps between foam boards. It is better to choose a material that has a tongue-and-groove connection. If you need to put the cut pieces together, just adjust them with a knife.

Which is better, basalt wool or slag wool?

Many people are at a loss as to which insulation is best for the attic. This is especially true for slag and basalt mineral wool - they are called in one word, they look similar. The latter is better because it has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.12. For slag wool this indicator is 0.48. Another advantage basalt insulation– absence of formaldehyde in the composition. Therefore, when deciding how best to insulate the attic from the inside, it is preferable to choose basalt wool.

What to do if the thickness of the insulation is greater than the height of the sheathing?

If, while insulating the attic gable from the inside, you find that the insulation is too thick and protrudes above the sheathing, under no circumstances should you press it down. The thermal properties of a material directly depend on its density: the lower it is, the greater the effect of the insulation.

By crushing, for example, slag wool, we compact it, worsening its properties. How to insulate the gable of an attic without redoing the sheathing? Simply increase its thickness by stuffing slats on top the required section. They do the same with roof slopes, increasing the rafters in width.

Is it possible to do without insulating the insulated attic floor?

Deciding how to insulate the attic for winter accommodation We often doubt whether it is necessary to take such care of the hydro- and vapor barrier of the floor. In theory, if the floor is well insulated and insulated along the walls and roof, this need not be done. However, one should not forget that warm air tends to rise upward, and with it moisture rises. That is, the floor of the top floor receives moisture from the entire house. Therefore, in the winter version of the attic, the layers of insulation must be enclosed in water and vapor barrier membranes.

Have you completed the second floor, but don’t know how to insulate it? I will talk about choosing insulation for the attic. And for dessert, we will look at 6 types of thermal insulation materials that are suitable for these purposes, and get acquainted with their properties, advantages and disadvantages.

First of all, let's figure out how to choose insulation? In fact, everything is quite simple, you just need to take into account a few when choosing important requirements to the material:

  • Durability. In my opinion, modern material should last for several decades;
  • Environmental friendliness. The insulation must be safe for health - this is one of the main requirements;
  • Efficiency. The higher the thermal conductivity, the greater the thickness of the insulation layer should be;
  • Saving the form. Thermal insulation should not shrink to avoid cold bridges;
  • Soundproofing properties. Particularly important for roofs covered steel materials(corrugated sheets, seam roofing, etc.);
  • Affordable price. Homeowners often have a limited budget. Therefore, the price/quality ratio can play a decisive role in the choice.

Also keep in mind that all types of insulation that are suitable for attic insulation can be divided into two types:

  • Slab. Allows for insulation mansard roof independently, as they do not require the use of additional equipment;
  • Sprayable. To insulate the attic, special equipment is required. Insulation in this case is carried out by specialists, which entails additional costs. This method of thermal insulation has its advantages, which I will discuss below.

Slab insulation

Slab thermal insulation materials include:

Option 1: mineral wool

Today this is the most popular material for an attic roof that meets all requirements. It is compressed fibers from molten rocks. The highest quality wool is made on the basis of basalt.

Unlike the well-known glass wool, which was widely used in Soviet times, basalt wool practically does not cause skin irritation and allergies. It is more environmentally friendly and more comfortable to work with.

Advantages of mineral wool:

  • Fire resistance. Stone wool is the only slab insulation that does not burn and can withstand exposure high temperature long time;

  • Vapor permeability. The material allows steam to pass through well, as it has a fibrous structure. This property also distinguishes mineral wool from most other board materials.

At the same time, stone wool is much more moisture resistant than glass wool;

  • Durability. Stone wool can last more than 60 years;
  • Environmental friendliness. Stone wool does not contain formaldehyde or other components hazardous to health. True, this only applies to material from well-known manufacturers.

Flaws:

  • Moisture absorption. According to this indicator, mineral wool is inferior to polymer materials. Therefore, when installing it, a hydro-vapor barrier is always used.
    In addition, when laying slabs, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps to allow moisture to evaporate;
  • High price. Mineral wool is relatively expensive, especially basalt wool.
    Despite these shortcomings, in my opinion, mineral wool is best insulation For mansard roof. The only thing is that it just needs to be installed correctly.

Characteristics:

The density of mineral wool, as you can see, varies. To insulate an attic roof, it is advisable to use insulation with a density of 90-100 kg/m3. It does not shrink and is effective in terms of thermal insulation.

Price:

Option 2: ecoteplin

Ecoteplin is a slab made from flax. Sometimes the insulation is made from hemp, sheep wool or others natural materials. Externally, they are not much different from the stone wool described above.

  • Efficiency. The thermal conductivity of ecoteplin is even lower than that of mineral wool;
  • Vapor permeability. Like mineral wool, this material is “breathable”;
  • Fire safety. Thanks to special impregnations, ecotheplin only smolders, therefore it is classified as a low-flammable material.
  • Biostability. This quality is due to the use of impregnations during the manufacturing process of insulation.

Flaws: One of the disadvantages of eco-thermal is that it strongly absorbs moisture. True, the material dries quickly and regains its thermal insulation qualities.

This insulation is quite rarely found in construction stores. But it’s easy to find it in online stores.

Characteristics:

Price. The average price for ecoteplin is 2500-3000 rubles. for 1m3.

Option 3: foam

Foam plastic is a polymer slab insulation material. It has a granular structure consisting of small granules glued together. The latter are filled with air.

Polystyrene foam is widely used due to its low cost. It is the cheapest not only among polymers, but also among all existing slab insulation materials.

Advantages:

  • Light weight. The maximum density does not exceed 35 kg/m3;
  • Durability. Polystyrene foam can last up to fifty years;
  • Efficiency. The thermal conductivity coefficient of this thermal insulation material is lower than that of mineral wool.

Flaws:

  • Doesn't "breathe". When insulating, it is necessary to properly insulate the insulation from the inside and wooden structures from moisture. Otherwise, water will accumulate between the insulation and the rafters or other wooden parts which will cause them to rot.
    I must say that this disadvantage applies to all plastic materials, so I will not mention it further;
  • Flammability. To save money, manufacturers rarely add fire retardants to the foam, as a result of which it burns well;

  • Toxicity. When exposed to high temperatures, polystyrene foam releases dangerous toxins;
  • Moisture absorption. Polystyrene foam absorbs moisture quite strongly compared to other plastic insulation materials.

For these reasons, it only makes sense to use foam when the budget is very limited.

Characteristics:

Price. The price of PSB-S-25 slabs is about 2000 rubles. for 1 m3.

Option 4: penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam, or penoplex, is a polymer board insulation made from the same raw materials as polystyrene foam. In its manufacture, a special technology is used, as a result of which this insulation better than foam according to many characteristics.

Advantages:

  • Strength. It has a more uniform structure and higher density. As a result, its strength is approximately 10 times higher than that of foam;
  • Efficiency. Thermal conductivity is slightly lower than that of polystyrene foam, which makes penoplex one of the most effective insulation materials;
  • Moisture resistant. This thermal insulation practically does not get wet;

  • Fire safety. As a rule, penoplex is a low-flammable material, which is achieved by adding fire retardants to its composition;
  • Durability. Can last more than fifty years.

Flaws. One of the disadvantages is the high cost of this insulation.

Characteristics:

Price:

Sprayed materials

With sprayed materials, as I said above, you won’t be able to insulate an attic with your own hands. But they have one advantage over slabs - they are applied to the surface in a continuous layer. As a result, cold bridges are excluded, so their use also makes a certain sense.

Sprayed materials include the following insulation materials:

Option 5: polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a polymer material that is sprayed in the form of foam. Like other polymer heat insulators, it has a cellular structure. Moreover, its cells are filled with gas.

Advantages:

  • Moisture resistance. This insulation for an attic roof does not require a vapor barrier;
  • Strength. After hardening, it forms a “shell” on the surface that is resistant to mechanical stress;

  • Good adhesion. This allows you to spray polyurethane foam on any surface;
  • Durability. Serves for at least 30 years;
  • Fire safety. Fire retardants are added to polyurethane foam.

Flaws:

  • Difficult to apply. Insulation must be carried out by qualified specialists. For such services, it is better to contact large companies without trying to save money;
  • High price. This method of insulation is one of the most expensive;
  • Toxicity. The foam has a strong toxic odor. True, after hardening the material is absolutely safe for health;

  • Increased thermal conductivity. The gas eventually leaves the cells and they fill with air. This leads to a slight decrease in the efficiency of the insulation.

Characteristics:

Price. On average insulation square meter surface with polyurethane foam costs 500 rubles.

Option 6: ecowool

For those who want to make their home environmentally friendly, ecowool is a good alternative to eco-insulation. This cotton wool is made on the basis of cellulose. As a rule, the raw material for it is newsprint.

It must be said that insulating an attic room can be done in several ways:

  • By wet spraying method. In this case, the cotton wool mixed with the adhesive composition is supplied under pressure;

  • Dry method. This technology is only applicable to frame structures In particular, roof insulation can be done in this way. Its essence boils down to covering the frame with film and pouring dry cotton wool into the space of the frame through a hose;

  • Manual. This technology allows you to insulate only wooden floor. The instructions for insulation are extremely simple - cotton wool is simply poured between the beams and leveled.

Advantages. The main advantage of ecowool is its environmental friendliness. Also, the material has other advantages:

  • Vapor permeability. In this parameter, ecowool is not inferior to eco-warm wool;
  • Fire safety. Non-flammable;

  • Biostability. Ecowool does not rot, rodents and insects do not grow in it;
  • Durability. This attic roof insulation can last more than 60 years.

Flaws:

  • It takes a long time to dry. The cotton wool can dry out for several days;
  • Shrinkage. May exceed 20 percent. Therefore, ecowool should be applied in excess;
  • Moisture absorption. Cellulose wool needs high-quality waterproofing.

Characteristics:

Price. A cube of cotton wool when insulated using the spraying method costs an average of 2,000 rubles, 15 kg of dry wool costs about 500 rubles.

That's all I wanted to tell you about insulation. Moreover, I have explained which one is better.

Conclusion

Now you know what insulation materials can be used for the attic and what characteristics and properties they have. Additionally, watch the video in this article. If there are any points you don’t understand, write comments and I will definitely answer you.

The attic can serve not only as a place to store all the necessary and unnecessary things - you can arrange a bedroom, living room, nursery, office or even a bathroom there. To make the room under the roof itself comfortable, it is not enough to make repairs there and install powerful heaters - you need to take care of high-quality insulation. - one of the coldest places in the house, because from above and on at least two sides it borders on the street, and the slopes of the roof here play the role of not only the ceiling, but also the walls. If you do not insulate the attic, then no heater will help create normal conditions for living, and all the heat will easily go outside. So what kind of insulation for the attic is better to choose than to insulate the walls and roof and what thickness should the insulation be?

No. 1. What kind of insulation should be used for an attic?

Not every thermal insulation material is suitable for insulating an attic, since this is a rather specific room. High-quality insulation must have the following characteristics:

  • low thermal conductivity– the most obvious requirement. The material must reliably protect the room from the cold, keeping maximum warmth inside. In addition, it must withstand temperature changes, be durable, not crack or lose its integrity over time;
  • noise insulation properties should be higher, the more “loud” roofing material selected. and, for example, during rain and hail they emit an unpleasant ringing sound, and high-quality can significantly reduce discomfort;
  • moisture resistance. It is advisable to choose a material that is inert to moisture and does not accumulate it, because when water is absorbed, the weight of the insulation increases (therefore, the load on all structures increases) and its thermal insulation qualities decrease. If the material meets all other parameters, but is prone to moisture accumulation, then it is better to use hydro- and vapor barrier together with it - this will complicate installation, but will make the insulation more durable;
  • fire resistance, especially if the roof frame is made of wood. For maximum flame resistance, even some low-flammability materials are treated with fire retardants - substances that prevent the spread of fire;
  • resistance to fungus and rodents;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • efficiency;
  • ease of installation will be a plus, but some very effective spray-type thermal insulators cannot be applied with your own hands.

To insulate the attic today they use mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam, ecowool, polyurethane foam and some other heat insulators. It is not recommended to use a fill-in thermal insulator (for example), since you will need quite a lot of it to achieve the required thermal insulation qualities. In the mountainous Caucasus regions, they sometimes even use wool- By thermal insulation properties it is close to mineral wool, but is subject to negative impact insects and rodents.

No. 2. Mineral wool for attic insulation

Glass wool

Glass wool is cheaper than stone wool, but is used infrequently due to inconvenience in work. Since the material is produced from glass waste, it contains small sharp particles that can easily injure skin and respiratory tract. However, if you work with glass wool in compliance with all the rules of personal protection, you can insulate the attic inexpensively and efficiently. To the main benefits materials include:


No. 3. Foam plastic for attic insulation

No. 4. Extruded polystyrene foam for attic insulation

In popularity, extruded polystyrene foam is catching up with mineral wool. By chemical composition this one is still the same ordinary one polystyrene foam, but a fundamentally different production technology makes it possible to obtain material with more profitable performance qualities. The whole point is that regular foam obtained by expanding microgranules under the influence of steam, and extruded, as the name suggests, by extrusion at elevated temperature and pressure, as well as by adding a foaming agent.

Basic advantages:

  • high-quality thermal insulation. Thermal conductivity coefficient is at the level of 0.029-0.034 W/m K;
  • moisture resistance, which is largely ensured due to the structure of the material with closed pores;
  • ease of installation, which is ensured by low weight and ease of processing;
  • sufficient strength;
  • low price;
  • resistance to mold and rodents.

Among cons not the highest vapor permeability, so you will have to approach the attic space more responsibly, and also low resistance to combustion. To insulate the attic, it is better to take polystyrene foam of the G3 flammability class - according to the standards, it can be used even in rooms with increased requirements for fire safety. Since the material belongs to tile insulation, a cold bridge may form at the junction of individual slabs, so it is better to take expanded polystyrene with a special lock.

No. 5. Polyurethane foam for attic insulation

Basic advantages:

  • thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.02 W/m K, and this is one of the best results;
  • the ability to create a completely seamless surface, so the problem of cold bridges will be completely solved;
  • absolute moisture resistance, which is important for the material that will be used under the roof itself;
  • high adhesion to most materials;
  • the ability to insulate the attic yourself complex shape– in some cases, the use of slab insulation is generally impractical, and foam makes it easy to fill all the cracks and hard-to-reach places;
  • high vapor permeability;
  • resistance to mold and rodents;
  • high speed of work.

Among cons price and the need to resort to the help of professionals, but all work will be carried out very quickly. In addition, the ignition temperature of the material is not very high - about 200-215 0 C, and when burned, the material emits toxic gases.

No. 6. Foam glass for attic insulation

When calculating, it is worth taking into account the heat transfer resistance of all fencing elements, including gable walls and roofing pie. It is convenient to use special calculators for this or even turn to professionals. With a certain degree of error, you can make a calculation, taking into account the required heat transfer resistance of only the attic covering, because it takes up largest area among all the external fences of this room. According to the rules, the heat transfer resistance is already subtracted from the tabulated or independently calculated value existing materials, but for roofing pie This value is very small, so we neglect it.

It turns out that to insulate an attic in Moscow with mineral wool (0.035-0.045 W/m*K) (heat transfer resistance 4.7 m 2 K/m), a thermal insulation layer of 16.5-21 cm is required, depending on the characteristics of the wool, the thermal conductivity index is always indicated on the package. In this case, experts recommend making thermal insulation with slabs 20 cm thick, and installing rolled mineral wool on top another 5 cm thick.

Naturally, attic room it is already insulated from the inside, and the practice of combining two types of insulation is common. Properly performed thermal insulation allows you to use the attic all year round and turn it into a full-fledged living space.

Arranging a living space in place of an attic has long ceased to be a rare occurrence. More and more home owners are interested in how to properly carry out renovations so that life “under the roof” is no less comfortable than in the house itself. Let's consider how to insulate an attic if the roof is already covered, what materials are best suited for this purpose and what nuances you should pay attention to.

An attic is not just a lived-in attic. There are some standards that distinguish these two premises from each other. First of all, the attic roof must have a slope. Besides, established by the norm The height of the room must be at least 2.5 m.

Focusing on the attractive appearance, many decide to arrange an attic. But in reality, you have to deal with some nuances, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with before starting work:

  • the materials that were used to build the attic directly determine further heat loss in this room. Therefore, their choice should be approached very responsibly;
  • No less influential are the correctly selected engineering solutions, which make it possible to ensure top floor all necessary communications;
  • The shape of the roof plays a significant role. It can be single-pitch, gable or broken;
  • in order to hide the load-bearing elements of the roof, you will have to use your imagination;
  • the attic can be located not only on the territory of the house, but also extend beyond its boundaries, supported by columns.

Each of these aspects has its own influence on the approach that will be required for high-quality roof insulation. But the main role still belongs to two main materials - heat and water insulation. On the one hand, the space under the roof is in the coldest zone of the building. On the other hand, a strong difference between the temperature inside and outside often causes condensation to appear, which has a destructive effect on materials.

The best materials for do-it-yourself attic insulation

For internal insulation There are many suitable options for attics. But your choice must be made based on the characteristics of the region of residence, as well as the design features of the specific roof with which you will be working. Let's look at what options exist today and what features are typical for them.

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam: the pros and cons of the material

Polystyrene foam is one of the most famous insulation materials, which occupies its niche among inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Its price is indeed significantly lower than many others, but this is far from its only advantage:

  • polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture at all. If the material is pre-treated with an impregnation specially designed for this purpose, then the water will simply flow down over the surface;
  • light weight is another advantage, which greatly facilitates transportation and installation, and also reduces the load on the roof;
  • the thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam is very low, so it copes with its direct functions more than fully;
  • Styrofoam is easy to cut and attach. This allows you to work with it without any problems even if you lack any experience.

Interesting! In terms of cost, this method can only be compared with insulating the ceiling with expanded clay, although now this method is used less and less.

Based on these characteristics, we can conclude that polystyrene foam is an almost win-win option when it comes to insulating the attic from the inside. But insulating walls with foam plastic from the inside also has disadvantages, and sometimes they turn out to be much more significant than the advantages:

  • the vapor permeability of foam is at a very low level. As a result, the room is often stuffy and hot. This also leads to increased humidity, which causes the development of fungi and mold on wooden roofing elements;
  • despite its artificial origin, this material is often damaged by rodents;
  • Over time, wood tends to shrink, which leads to the formation of gaps between the foam elements. It is impossible to fix this, and the only way to solve the problem is to completely replace the thermal insulation material.

Many believe that the listed disadvantages outweigh the advantages and insulating the attic with polystyrene foam is not justified. But we must admit that this is one of the most budget-friendly options, which causes the least hassle, and if the installation technology is followed, it may well become an alternative to more expensive solutions.

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam: advantages, disadvantages and features

Extruded polystyrene foam is very similar to polystyrene foam. Their technical characteristics are almost identical, with the exception of one significant aspect - installation technology. If polystyrene foam needs to be laid between the rafters, then polystyrene foam is placed on top, which eliminates the risk of cracks and gaps.

Helpful advice! Some manufacturers offer customers slabs with stepped joints, which makes the joints even stronger and more reliable. This fixation of elements together is an ideal option for insulating an attic roof.

Among other advantages of roof insulation with polystyrene foam, one cannot fail to note its low weight, which is perfectly combined with high strength and resistance to external influences. In addition, the service life of this material is quite long, provided that all the technology for insulating the attic with penoplex is followed.

Expanded polystyrene is not prone to rotting or decomposition, which is also important in the case of work on the roof. Any finishing coating can be applied over it, which will give an attractive appearance and provide additional protection.

It’s easy to work with polystyrene foam yourself: a variety of different materials are suitable for fixing it. adhesive mixtures and mastics. And in some cases they even use a construction stapler. So there is no need to purchase any expensive additional elements for installation.

But behind all these positive characteristics, we must not forget about the only, but rather serious drawback of polystyrene foam insulation from the inside of walls and roofs - the material has an increased level of flammability. For owners, this means the need for a more careful and thoughtful installation of all communications, in particular electricity.

Of course, manufacturers are trying to reduce this drawback to a minimum, but today we can say with confidence that this question remains open, and every owner who has chosen to insulate the walls from the inside with penoplex is obliged to take care of their safety.

Interesting! It is no coincidence that this material is most often chosen for insulating balconies. Expanded polystyrene has very low thermal conductivity, and at the same time on the balcony it practically does not have to come into contact with electricity.

Insulating the attic from the inside with mineral wool: a worthy alternative to penoplex

Mineral wool is another thermal insulation material that is used everywhere and is widely known for its properties. It got its name because of its fibrous structure, similar to medical cotton wool. You can buy it in rolls, which makes transportation and installation even more convenient.

Low thermal conductivity goes well with the ability to not absorb moisture. Although, if this happens, the material dries quickly without losing its appearance and technical characteristics.

Mineral wool belongs to the category of environmentally friendly and safe materials, which becomes noticeable even if the upper part of the roof is covered with metal tiles, which are prone to strong heating when exposed to sun rays. In addition, mineral wool also serves as a sound-absorbing barrier, and unlike polystyrene foam, it is not at all of interest to rodents and various insects.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with mineral wool must be done taking into account the fact that this is a fairly elastic material, even despite its soft fibrous structure. It is quite capable of being held between the rafters, provided it is properly fixed.

Helpful advice! In the process of cutting mineral wool for laying sheets between the rafters, it is necessary to leave a margin of approximately 2 cm. This will allow them to be held and not fall out even if there is no additional elements fastenings

Insulating the roof from the inside with glass wool: is it worth using this material?

According to its characteristics, glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but in in this case the fibers that make up the material are longer, which generally increases the elasticity of the material. Strength indicators and soundproofing abilities are also slightly higher. But when in contact with moisture, glass wool is inferior to mineral wool, absorbing more water.

The use of glass wool for insulation of residential premises does not lead to any negative consequences for the health of residents. No toxic substances are used in the production process. In addition, glass wool is characterized by low flammability.

When working with the material, safety regulations must be followed to avoid glass wool fibers getting into the air. Its small particles can cause irritation of mucous membranes, and therefore the use of a respirator and safety glasses is a must.

Helpful advice! Sometimes glass wool fibers can cause skin irritation, so it is recommended to wear closed clothing and even gloves when working with it.

Do-it-yourself insulation of an attic roof from the inside using stone wool

Stone wool is the most expensive option among similar materials. But at the same time, it is the safest for human health and, in terms of reliability, significantly exceeds all other options. Here are some of its main advantages:

  • The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is one of the lowest;
  • stone wool remains completely environmentally friendly even when heated;
  • the layer of this heat insulator is also an excellent noise-absorbing barrier;
  • the level of vapor permeability is very high;

  • the material practically does not burn;
  • no mechanical loads can deform stone wool or affect its characteristics;
  • the material is different long term operation;
  • You can purchase stone wool in the form of slabs, which are easily cut into pieces of the required length and attached to the ceiling surface.

Because of high cost They often try to replace stone wool with mineral wool or glass wool. But such a replacement cannot be called complete, since this affects the quality of insulation quite seriously. Many users claim that the price of the material is quite justified, and provided that the installation technology is followed, it very quickly pays off the incurred costs.

Related article:

Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic insulation for the roof. Insulation of the attic roof.

In addition, it is quite possible to carry out all the work on insulating the attic roof from the inside with your own hands. Video instructions can demonstrate the procedure for carrying out the work, and recommendations from specialists will help you avoid common mistakes.

Insulating the attic with ecowool is one of the most effective ways to combat the cold

Ecowool is a pre-crushed material that is first blown into the cracks, and then, using the same method, a layer is placed between the ceiling and the rafters, using a device specially designed for this. This is an expensive procedure, but it allows you to completely eliminate all risks of drafts and ensure the most effective insulation.

Ecowool consists of 80% completely natural material- paper whose properties are very similar to those characteristic of wood. Given its natural origin, ecowool reduces the level of heat loss no less effectively than other materials.

One of the components that is part of ecowool is borax. According to its characteristics, it is an antiseptic of natural origin, which makes it possible to provide wooden elements roofs effective protection from the formation of fungus and mold.

Ecowool is applied thin layer, but at the same time it provides a decent level of not only heat, but also noise insulation. The material retains its characteristics even after decades of use. So the not too low cost is the only drawback of this material, which is fully justified by its excellent properties.

Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam: basic technology and material features

Foamed polyurethane foam is the most modern of all the listed methods for insulating an attic. Its main difference is the complete absence of joints or gaps that could become a source of cold air. Besides, operational period This material is one of the longest lasting, lasting up to 30 years.

Foamed polyurethane foam is not subject to shrinkage, even if wooden roof the house gradually begins to deform over time. Its solid structure completely eliminates the risk of moisture absorption, which eliminates the need to install an additional vapor barrier layer.

But there are also aspects that significantly complicate the process of using polyurethane foam as roof insulation with inside. This primarily concerns the application procedure, which requires complex and expensive equipment. Its purchase is almost never justified, so it is usually rented.

Another aspect is the complex application technology, which requires certain experience in this field and does not allow beginners to independently cope with the task efficiently.

Helpful advice! Perfect option– invite a team of workers who will come with their own equipment and in just a few hours will do high-quality insulation of the attic of your house.

Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands using penofol

Penofol is a kind of foamed polyethylene - a technology that occupies its niche among methods modern insulation walls and houses. Along with high sound insulation rates, it is also worth noting the fact that penofol has high-quality coating made of aluminum, which can be applied on one or two sides.

Here are a few more arguments in favor of using penofol for attic insulation:

  • the material does not pose any threat to human health or the environment;
  • its thermal conductivity is extremely low;
  • the closed system of air bubbles characteristic of this material serves as an excellent barrier to steam penetration.

This method is also not cheap and requires significant financial investments to implement. But, as practice shows, it is better to spend money once on high-quality material and thereby ensure comfortable conditions residence for many years to come.

Combining materials is not at all uncommon. Materials with compatible characteristics can be used together for insulation. For example, mineral wool and polystyrene foam go well together. The first is placed between the rafters, and the second is placed closer to the edge of the roof. This combination will allow you to achieve the desired effect and significantly save on the purchase of materials.

As you can see from the descriptions, each insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The only question is to choose the most suitable option, which will satisfy the idea of ​​correspondence between price and quality of the material.

One of the most common mistakes that owners make is a rash choice in favor of the cheapest option for attic insulation. Videos and articles can demonstrate the positive aspects of a particular solution, but the choice must be taken into account all the nuances and characteristics. Attempts to save on thermal insulation material may lead to the fact that after some time of operation, you will have to carry out renovation work or even completely replace all the material.

Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands: video and stages of work

Each material has its own fastening characteristics and should be used exclusively in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. But if we talk about general procedure carrying out work, there are mandatory stages that are carried out almost always, regardless of the material chosen.

Layer is laid out first waterproofing material, which should protect the insulation from the destructive effects of moisture. The film is overlapped so that one layer overlaps the other by 10-15 cm. The material is secured using a construction stapler, and the joints are additionally taped.

Then, if necessary, a sheathing is created. For it, you can use wooden slats, the width of which is 8-10 cm. They need to be attached to the rafters, positioned parallel to each other at a distance of 50-60 cm. It is very important to check each element separately using building level. This will prevent any roof defects from occurring in the future.

A heat insulator is placed on the rafters or sheathing and secured in a suitable manner. For example, if we are talking about using any type of cotton wool sold in the form of rolls, then the material is cut into pieces the right size to lay them between the rafters. In this case, the thickness of the insulation should be such as to correspond to the width of the log. It is especially important if you decide to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall. In this case, all free space must be filled with insulation.

The top layer of this “pie” is a layer vapor barrier material, which can be used as polyethylene film, glassine or roofing felt. As with waterproofing, the selected material is overlapped. True, in this case it is better to fasten using thin wooden slats, placing them in increments of 40-50 cm. All joints must be taped.

Helpful advice! If you need to lay several layers of thermal insulation material, between each of them you need to lay vapor barrier film. This is especially true for cold regions.

As a final step, all that remains is to take care of a suitable finishing coating, which can be attached to the sheathing or, in the absence of it, directly to the bars. It is worth taking into account the weight of the used decorative panels, since installation of the heaviest of them may require preliminary installation of a frame made of a metal profile.

The main mistakes made in the process of insulating the attic

The final result of the work, which is done by hand, directly depends on how accurately the technology and all the prescribed rules are followed. It is worth paying particular attention to the procedure for laying the waterproofing layer, since materials that are capable of absorbing moisture subsequently dry out, which often causes cold in the room.

  • if the roof slope does not exceed 13°, this will cause precipitation to remain on the surface. The result is rust and leaks. All this can negatively affect the condition of the insulation, so it is important to make sure that the angle of inclination is large enough before starting work;
  • installation of thermal insulation material on walls and roof is not all necessary work. It is also necessary to take care of the insulation of windows (according to Swedish technology). To do this, it is best to invite specialists to ensure that leaks are avoided. Especially if it is necessary to install windows at an angle;

  • in order to provide the thermal insulation material with ventilation and the ability to dry out if it gets wet, it is advisable to leave a gap of approximately 2-3 cm between the material and the roof;
  • it is strictly forbidden to skip at least one of the necessary layers of vapor or waterproofing materials;
  • If the thermal insulation material is thicker than the rafters, then their height can be increased by filling additional slats yourself.

These simple recommendations can help in the work process, significantly increasing the quality of insulation. However, if for any reason there are doubts about the strength and experience, it would be better to invite a specialist. Of course, you will have to pay for this, but in this case you will not have to redo everything twice.

Insulating the attic gable from the inside is far from the most difficult task, which a home owner may encounter. Often, owners want to place a balcony on the top floor, the insulation technology of which also has its own characteristics.

As with walls, a wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the ceiling on a balcony, although it is worth noting that loggia insulation technology is often used here, which has not been mentioned before. It will help you to understand in detail the features of this process. step-by-step instruction“Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony from the inside.”

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: video instructions

As clear example It is recommended to watch a training video where the technology of insulating walls from the inside with mineral wool is presented in detail. This will allow you to familiarize yourself in detail with all the nuances and avoid the previously mentioned common mistakes.

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Which insulation is best for an attic roof - choose from 5 options

A high-quality insulated attic floor is excellent solution shortage of living space. It is possible to insulate a room under a roof with your own hands, but with such an abundance of thermal insulation materials, modern market It is important not to make a mistake with the choice. To make it easier for you to decide on the type and thickness of the material, then we will analyze in detail the characteristics of 5 insulation materials, plus I will make a short review of prices.

Where to look when choosing

The attic belongs to quite specific residential premises. The main difference is the absence of main walls. More precisely, some models have so-called attic walls (continued main wall), but their height often does not exceed 1.2 m, so they do not play a big role in thermal insulation.

Since there is no capital base, the entire load in terms of insulation falls on the thermal insulation materials. Exist general ideas about what kind of insulation should be for the attic floor.

  • One of the most basic parameters when choosing a material is the thermal conductivity coefficient. Remember - the lower the thermal conductivity coefficient, the better the thermal insulation is considered;

  • The material must be resistant to sudden temperature changes; during such changes it should not crack or shrink. In the attic part, the thermal insulation from the street is separated only by the roofing material and a windproof membrane, so it is important how many freezing cycles the insulation can withstand;
  • The level of hygroscopicity is no less important for any insulation, because the ability to absorb moisture significantly and in a short time can increase thermal conductivity. But even if the material is hygroscopic, it is desirable that when it dries it does not lose its properties;
  • According to statistics, the attic space is considered the most fire hazardous; a dry, unprotected roof will burn out in 5–7 minutes during a fire. Ideally, the insulation should not burn at all or at least not support combustion;
  • The complexity of the arrangement technology plays an important role. Even if you don't intend to do it yourself, than more difficult installation, the more the craftsmen will have to pay for it;
  • Thermal insulation occupies the bulk of the roofing pie and at such a concentration it is important that the material is completely safe for humans. Living in a poisonous “bag” is not the best The best way save.

In practical terms, when it comes to purchasing, it is important to choose the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the material depends on several factors:

  • First of all, from the material itself, but we will talk about this later;
  • The second criterion is density; here it is important to find the golden mean, and for each climate zone this mean is different;
  • Again, hygroscopicity, water-permeable materials must be taken with reserve;
  • But the most important characteristic affecting thickness is thermal conductivity; it should be as low as possible.

What kind of insulation does the market offer?

If you are looking for a universal insulation that is the best in all respects, then I will tell you honestly - this does not exist in principle. Depending on the roof design and climate zone, there are more and less common materials.

Option No. 1: foam

Polystyrene foam is considered a proven, reliable and, importantly, inexpensive insulation material. It contains only about 3% polystyrene, and the remaining 97% is air. Polystyrene is indifferent to moisture, which means it does not absorb moisture at all.

With any insulation of a house, there is such a thing as the dew point. In a nutshell, this is the place where plus and minus meet; it is in this zone that condensation settles. So, with foam plastic, the dew point is inside the slab and, in principle, there cannot be condensation there.

The slabs are light, but at the same time quite rigid, which greatly facilitates calculations and installation. Like most insulation materials, polystyrene foam has good soundproofing properties. Although not everything is so smooth, this material also has a number of serious disadvantages.

The fact that the material does not absorb moisture is good, but at the same time, it does not allow it to pass through. The attic is the upper room in the building, therefore there is the highest concentration of household fumes.

If you decide to insulate the attic with polystyrene foam, you will have to install forced ventilation, otherwise the vapors will condense under the ceiling, which will lead to mold, after which the wood of the rafters will begin to deteriorate, and with a high concentration, water will simply drip from the ceiling.

Polystyrene foam supports combustion, although it does not burn strongly; in the event of a fire it will release harmful, suffocating gases. Foam plastic is safe for humans, but rodents love to live in these slabs and it is very difficult to get them out.

For central Russia, slabs with a thickness of 50–70 mm are sufficient, in Siberia it is necessary to lay 100 mm, and the further north you go, the thicker it is. As for the brand, slabs from PSB-S-25 and denser are used here.

The prices in the article are current in the fall of 2017.

Option No. 2: extruded materials

Extruded polystyrene foam is, figuratively speaking, an advanced brother of polystyrene foam. The same polystyrene is used here, only the sheets are made by extrusion, as a result, instead of compressed balls, you get monolithic slab made of foamed polystyrene.

Many people consider such well-known brands as “Penoplex” and “Technoplex” to be independent types of insulation. So - all this is extruded polystyrene foam, produced by different manufacturers.

Such slabs are distinguished by lower thermal conductivity, compared to foam plastic; it is lower by about a third. Where polystyrene foam is installed with a thickness of 70 mm, EPS can be installed with a thickness of 50 mm, plus the durability of the boards is at least 30–40 years, versus 20–25 years for polystyrene foam.

As for the minuses, almost everything that foam plastic has was transferred to extruded polystyrene foam (except that rodents do not live in it), plus it is almost 2 times more expensive.

Option No. 3: different types of mineral wool

Not everyone knows, but the term mineral wool combines several different materials, which differ in their characteristics.

Absolutely all types of wool absorb moisture, but slabs high density have the ability to retain their characteristics after drying.

Illustrations Recommendations

Stone wool.

This direction is made from volcanic minerals.

Insulate the attic stone wool considered the most the best solution. It is absolutely harmless, quite durable and does not burn.

Most often, basalt wool is used for these purposes; it’s just that this mineral is the most common, and therefore affordable.

The thickness of the slabs for attic insulation starts from 100 mm.


Glass wool.

Glass wool is much cheaper than its stone sister. The material is environmentally friendly, but not all brands of glass wool are good; budget models shrink quickly and require caution during installation (small glass needles dig into the skin).


Slag.

According to their own thermal insulation characteristics slag wool is not much inferior to stone types of wool, but for insulation interior spaces It's not worth taking it.

This material is made from blast furnace slag and during operation, the slag releases vapors of phenol and other dangerous poisons.

For the attic and, in general, any roofing project, mineral wool should be taken in high-density slabs. Under no circumstances use soft mats; they are not suitable for roofing and will quickly become unusable.

Option No. 4: ecowool

New unique material, called ecowool, is nothing more than a product of recycling waste paper. 80% of it consists of natural cellulose, the rest goes to additives and binders.

Ecowool is ideal for the attic, but to apply it to the walls and ceiling you need to invite specialists with special compressor equipment. This material is sprayed onto the surface. But thanks to the additives, it does not burn and does not lose its properties after getting wet.

Option No. 5: polyurethane foam

An excellent material for insulating any surface. In its structure, polyurethane foam is partly similar to polyurethane foam, although the composition is different. There is no need to worry about the solidity of the layer here, because the material is sprayed onto the walls and, after hardening, forms a sealed shell.

Polyurethane foam is durable, lightweight and does not support combustion, everything about it is good, except that the price of the material is quite high and specialists with equipment are needed to install it.

Conclusion

The attic is a specific room and when choosing insulation for it, you need to take into account all the pros and cons that were mentioned above. The video in this article contains other interesting nuances of choice. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

October 16, 2017

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