DIY stone cutting machine drawings. DIY stone cutting machine

To reveal the secrets of the stone, you will need various machines and equipment. Amateur processing of stone raw materials includes the following operations: stone cutting (or tumbling); rough grinding, or roughing; fine grinding; drilling holes; polishing

Let's take a closer look at the first stone processing operation - cutting.

In the old days, when there were no diamond saws, stone was cut with copper or brass wheels, feeding abrasive powder diluted with water into the cut. The rotation speed of the circles was relatively low - from 200 to 300 rpm. As the rotation speed increased, the loose abrasive was easily thrown off the wheel. Cutting was therefore a very lengthy procedure. In the designs of machine tools they tried to use various mechanical devices, which secured the stone, ensured its uniform pressure on the saw, gradually supplied abrasive powder and turned off the machine after finishing cutting. The stone was also cut with strips - straight steel saws, using abrasive powder in the cutting area.

With the invention of the diamond wheel, the cutting process accelerated significantly. As discussed above, the diamond grains in the cutting wheel are firmly pressed into metal bonds that hold them until they are completely worn out. During operation, the metal bond gradually wears away, exposing new diamond particles.

If, after prolonged use, a diamond wheel suddenly stops cutting, it means that some diamond grains have almost worn out, while others have not yet been exposed. To correct the situation, use it to cut a piece of an old grinding wheel or sharpener with a grain size of 100 to 300 microns. This will not only improve the cutting properties of the saw, but also eliminate the eccentricity of the circle. The diamond cutting wheel can be used until the diamond layer is completely worn out.

In amateur practice, to prevent overheating of the diamond layer of the saw and cracking of the stone raw materials, lubricating coolants (coolants) are used, usually cold water, to which baking soda is sometimes added for better wetting and cooling. It should, however, be remembered that it is better to use water and soda in closed machines, since during operation a soda mist is formed that settles on machine parts, clothing and furniture. Coolant must be supplied from both sides of the saw using flexible rubber or plastic tubes. After finishing cutting, the diamond cutting wheel and the entire machine should be thoroughly wiped down. If this is not done, the saw blade and metal parts of the machine will become corroded from water and sludge.

The schematic diagram of the machine can be seen in the figure. Typically, such a machine consists of an electric motor, a diamond cutting wheel, a coolant supply system, protection against its splashing, a table with a stop on which the stone is cut, and a tank for collecting sludge.

Schematic diagram of a machine for cutting stone: 1 - table; 2, 4 - visors; 3 - stone; 5 - cutting diamond wheel; 6 - water tank; 7 - water

A machine for cutting small samples can easily be made from the “Skillful Hands” kit of type K-1, produced by the Mogilev Electrodvigatel plant. In it, you need to slightly modify the base of the machine, make a table and a mandrel for attaching a diamond saw. The Skillful Hands kit includes single phase electric motor power 250 W with a speed of 2500 revolutions per minute, which is quite enough to install a diamond cutting wheel with a diameter of 125 mm (in this case, the peripheral speed will be 14.8 m/s) for cutting hard stones up to 30 mm high.

All parts of the machine table (body, enclosing canopy, bath and top plate) can be glued together from plexiglass, only for the body and table you need to take plexiglass 5-6 mm thick - this will make the structure rigid and durable. It is better to supply water through a copper tube with a diameter of 3-4 mm. The tube needs to be bent in a semicircle, a supply fitting from the same tube must be soldered to it and a rubber supply hose must be put on it cold water. The tube should cover the diamond saw on both sides.

During cutting, the stone is held with both hands, tightly fitting to the table, which eliminates skewing or “jumping” of the stone, and with light pressure it is passed through the saw. You can cut the mineral into plates of a strictly defined thickness on a machine with a stop located to the left of the cutting wheel. The position of the stop determines the thickness of the plate. The stone is pressed against the stop with the right hand and pushed through the saw.

It is especially convenient to hold the stone with two hands when cutting agate tonsils and irregularly shaped minerals. However, you need to be very careful when turning the stone so as not to accidentally warp it and break the saw.

To give the stone a stable position, its edge is ground (cut off). Received support platform pressed against the stop and passed through a diamond saw.

You can also place the stone in cardboard box, pour cement or plaster and, when it hardens, cut it. Upon completion of sawing, the fixing cement and plaster must be carefully removed. If you have to cut a cracked stone, it is first treated epoxy glue and let it dry.

You can extend the service life of a diamond cutting wheel by installing angular contact bearings on the machine shaft, which will relieve the shaft from longitudinal and transverse play, as well as using a piece emery wheel which will minimize the eccentricity of the cutting wheel. When the machine operates, a lot of sludge is generated (a mixture of abrasive and stone waste). To prevent it, along with water, from getting onto the bearings and other rotating parts of the machine, you need to cover them with a screen, gasket, etc.

It is more convenient to cut a stone when it moves towards the circle. Options for positioning the plane of the cutting machine table in relation to the cutting wheel are shown in the figure.

Options for installing the thrust table relative to the diamond cutting wheel: 1 - optimal; 2 - mediocre; 3 - worst

If the stone is small in size, it can be polished rather than cut.

The machine shown in the following figure differs favorably from the previous one in that the torque from the engine is transmitted to the saw by an elastic connection, which well absorbs shocks that occur when the stone is distorted, making it possible to move the electric motor out of the area high humidity, thereby complying with the basic safety rule, and, no less important, obtaining up to three rotation speeds using replaceable or stepped pulleys. Any V-belt from washing machine.

Machine for cutting stone with transmission of torque from an electric motor using an elastic connection: 1 - motor; 2 - belt; 3 - hinge; 4 - visor; 5 - diamond cutting wheel; 6 - water; 7 - switch; 8 - drain; 9 - body

How many machines to have and which ones, each master decides for himself. One, for example, wants to make separate machines for cutting stone and for grinding work, another prefers to combine both cutting and grinding in one machine. Which option should I choose? First of all, consider the size of the work space. A serious condition is also the ability to replace one saw with another in a matter of minutes, or change the machine from stone cutting to grinding, or change the rotation speed of the working element.

Stone cutting machine. The diamond cutting wheel and the electric motor are located on one swinging frame: 1 - diamond cutting wheel; 2 - belt; 3 - motor; 4 - stone; 5 - clamping device; 6 - handle

To manufacture a cutting machine, it is necessary that the rotation speed of the diamond cutting wheel be 1500-2500 rpm at a peripheral speed of 15-25 m/s. Weak, cracked stones are best cut at low speeds (1000-1500 rpm). The optimal grit size for a diamond cutting wheel is 250/200, 200/160, 160/125 and 125/100. It is not advisable to use wheels with a smaller grain size in amateur practice due to the sharp increase in cutting time.

Stone cutting machine. The stone falls onto the saw under the influence of its own weight: 1 - visor; 2 - cutting diamond wheel; 3 - belt; 4 - electric motor; 5 - water; 6 - body; 7 - hinge; 8 - stone

Machines for cutting stone with strip saws: a - option one: 1 - water; 2 - abrasive; 3 - strip saw; 4 - stone; 5 - support; 6 - crank mechanism; 7 - electric motor; b - option two: 1 - electric motor; 2 - crank mechanism; 3 - strip saw; 4 - stone; 5 - bath with water; 6 - support

In addition to the cutting machine, you will need a grinding machine. Sometimes grinding operations are performed on an electric grinder. But it can only be used at the initial stage of work, since processing stone in a vertical plane is inconvenient.

Of course you can install grinder vertically and attach it to its shaft grinding wheel, but this is also not a way out. If you place the electric motor vertically, its housing and bearings will quickly heat up, some force will appear along the shaft, and the presence of one speed, sometimes high, does not make it possible to process stone with bulk abrasive and other work. This is why you will eventually have to design a machine with a horizontally mounted roughing tool. The design of two types of such a machine can be seen in the following figure.

Grinding machines with V-belt drive: a - electric motor, installed at the top; 1 - electric motor; 2 - pulley; 3 - fence; 4 - cast iron faceplate; 5 - dropper; b - the electric motor is installed at the bottom; 1 - faceplate; 2 - fence; 3 - bed; 4.7 - pulleys; 5 - electric motor; 6 - belt; 8 - centering unit

In construction and landscape design Both natural and artificial stone are often used. This material is durable, aesthetic, and has its own charm and color. It is used to make furniture, stairs, interior decoration, facade cladding, fountains, gazebos, flower beds and much more.

But despite its strength and versatility, this material has one drawback: cutting and processing it requires a large number of energy and time. In addition, working with stone with your own hands without special equipment is almost impossible.

1 Stone cutting machine device and principle of operation

To cut and polish both artificial and natural stone, you need a stone-cutting machine. In appearance and the basic principle of operation, it is practically no different from a regular wood circular saw.

However, to work with stone you need a more powerful, but low-speed engine, as well as a high-strength diamond wheel. In one minute the machine makes a cut 5 mm long, which is why Working with stone requires a lot of time, patience and effort.

Also, unlike circular saw for wood, a stone-cutting machine requires the installation of an electric pump to supply water to the cutting surface. Water prevents dust from rising and prevents overheating of the diamond wheel, increasing the life and quality of its service.

Stone-cutting units Diam, Fubag, Nuova battipav go 80 and other brands and models have quite large dimensions and weigh on average from 80 to 150 kg. There are machines with a weight slightly less than 80 kg. If we talk about industrial equipment, its weight will significantly exceed 150 kg.

1.1 Types of stone cutters

A stone cutting machine is not a cheap device. Therefore, it is unlikely that anyone will purchase it for household purposes. In everyday life, they are usually used for cutting and polishing stone. an ordinary grinder, on which a diamond cutting or polishing disc is installed.

The machines themselves are either professional (used in factories) or semi-professional (they are usually used by construction companies).

We will not consider professional units separately, but note that general principle The operation of professional and semi-professional units is not particularly different.

Stone-cutting machines from such well-known companies as Diam, Fubag, Nuova battipav and others can be classified according to 3 main characteristics.

Top and bottom drive. Bottom drive machines are more often used in enterprises, as they are more powerful and can cut stone. big size. In construction, units with top drive are more often used, since builders are dealing with already processed stone certain sizes. Such devices are easier to use.
Type of cutting tool. Many people think that Only a diamond wheel is used to cut stone. However, this is not so, or rather not entirely so. This work, of course, cannot be done without the participation of diamond, as a high-strength mineral. But in addition to disc stone cutters, there are also tape and wire cutters, which cut using diamond coatings and additives. The latter are used mainly for stone processing on an industrial scale.
Method of supplying the cutting wheel. This parameter applies exclusively to top drive machines. The disc can be brought to the stone from the side (horizontal feed) or lowered onto it from above (vertical feed). Often manufacturers of Diam, Fubag, Nuova battipav go 80 make equipment with combined wheel feed. These models include the nuova battipav prime stone cutting machine

2 Design and principle of operation

Stone cutting machine in standard necessarily consists of:

beds;
engine operating from a 220 or 380 V network;
drive unit;
cut (diamond wheel or saw);
additional devices (water supply pump, dust extractor).

The bed must have maximum strength and stability, since the remaining parts of the machine are attached to it. Therefore, it is made of cast iron or high-strength steel and must be installed with your own hands on a hard, flat concrete floor.

The motor is designed to rotate the cutting wheel. They can operate from a two-phase or three-phase network. Power supply from a three-phase network provides more power and allow you to work with a larger diameter disc.

The engine can be installed in two ways:

on a unit with a bottom drive, the engine is installed at the bottom of the frame on its stationary part;
on devices with a top cutting drive, the motor is mounted on a special rail at the top of the structure and is a movable element.

The transmission is needed to drive the cutting wheel by the engine. Depending on the engine power, the number of gears and the functionality of the unit, the drive can be direct, belt, chain or gear.

Water supply on wet cutting machines is carried out by an electric pump in a cyclic mode. However, in the case of water circulation in a circle, the quality of the cut deteriorates due to abrasive particles entering the liquid. Therefore, many users are replacing the water supply system with a non-cycling one.

The machines can work not only with wet, but also with dry cutting. For example, the Husqvarna Ts300 unit is two-standard. It is designed for both wet and dry work.

In addition, many machines Diam, Fubag, Nuova battipav go 80 and others equipped with ventilated engine cooling.

New models of machines, for example the Diam, Fubag, Nuova battipav go 80 stone cutting machine, are equipped with an electronic safety system and overheating protection.

Units Diam, Fubag, Nuova battipav go 80 and others can perform cutting at an angle of 90 and 45 degrees.

2.1 Review of the Nuova Battipav PRIME 700 stone cutting machine (video)

2.2 Common models

The most common manufacturers of stone-cutting machines are the German Fubag, the South Korean Diam, and the Italian Nuova battipav. These companies have established themselves as manufacturers of the most reliable and durable machines and components.

These units are designed for cutting natural and artificial stone, tiles, asbestos-cement pipes and other building materials. Order tile cutters and 1000 more necessary little things can be found on the website diammarket.ru

The operating principle of stone cutting machines is no different from a wood sawmill. In machines with bottom drive, the stone moves in the direction of the stationary wheel; in Fubag units with top drive - the cut is lowered or brought to a stationary stone.

2.3 Making a stone cutting machine with your own hands

Let’s say right away that for cutting small volumes of building materials with your own hands, for example tiles, quite regular one will do Bulgarian. If the volume of work is larger, and, in addition, you have to deal with natural stone, the grinder will not last long.

Therefore, you will have to make a full-fledged stone-cutting machine only with your own hands.

We will make a machine with a top drive. Most modern stone-cutting machines from Fubag and other well-known companies operate on this principle.

First, let's decide on the engine. We will need a motor with a speed of 1500 rpm and a power of 180 to 250 watts. An engine from an old washing machine is quite suitable for these parameters.
When choosing an engine, the pulley is very important. It will be better if it is two-stage. In this case, we will have two gears: 1:0.35 for working with bulk abrasive and 1:1 for working with a cutting wheel.
We will connect the engine pulley to the shaft on which the cutting wheel is installed with our own hands using a V-belt. A belt from a Zaporozhets or another car will do the job perfectly.
Particular attention should be paid to the bed. She must be installed strictly in level and not have the slightest wobble or sag. The quality of work performed and service life will depend on it abrasive wheels. It is better if it is a welded all-metal structure. To make it, we will take a channel 80 mm thick.
In addition, we will need a tank for cooling and collecting abrasive waste. Its function can be performed by a small bath or a metal tank. The main thing is that its diameter is at least 80 mm larger than the diameter of the saw. If there is nothing suitable, you can weld it yourself from sheet metal.
We weld corners to the table along the edges, which will act as a groove for moving the carriage with the cutting disk and the motor.
Pay special attention to assembling the machine yourself. All bolts and nuts must be tightened very tightly and then locked.

2.4 Safety rules

Before starting work, check the level and stability of the machine with your own hands.
Don't neglect special clothing. In addition to a working suit (preferably a canvas one), be sure to wear goggles and a respirator.
Do not turn on or try to operate the machine if it has the slightest malfunction.
Don't try to save money on abrasive material.

Today we will talk about how to make a homemade stone-cutting machine yourself from scrap materials with your own hands at home in order to cut or saw any type of natural stone. We will also consider drawings of machines for sawing and cutting stones, which you can make yourself

HOMEMADE STONE-CUTTING SAWS. The “heart” of any stone-cutting machine is the spindle - the place where the cutting disc is mounted and the support that feeds the sample to it.

The support for both units is the coolant tank, which must be rigid enough to ensure that the location of these units relative to each other remains unchanged during the sawing process. Such a tank is best made from clad sheet steel 3 mm thick, welding the joints. But you can also make it from boards or thick (12 mm) plywood, lining it from the inside sheet metal, soldered at the joints. Well made, they are almost as good as all-metal tanks.

The spindle is attached to the side wall of the finished tank using bolts and washers. If the walls of the tank are made of wood, large washers should be used to prevent the wood from being pressed down and the bolts from becoming loose. A stone clamp is just a block of solid wood with a cross-section of 50 x 100 mm, at one end of which a regular door hinge is attached as a hinge.

The stone is clamped using long bolts with wing nuts. Since the loop cannot move in the longitudinal direction, it becomes necessary to rearrange the stone in the clamp more than once. But if you fasten a piece of pipe across the tank, along which a sleeve slides, connected to this block by a lever, then you can cut off several plates at once without rearranging the stone in the clamp. Of course, great accuracy cannot be achieved here, but with some skill you can get good results.

The machine parts also include a 0.25 hp engine. pp., V-belt and protective cover. The back wall of the latter must be made from some metal sheet, and cover the sides and front with strips of fabric that could be lifted to observe the sawing. The finished machine and motor are installed on a common base, with sheets of sponge rubber or felt placed under them to reduce noise and vibration.

A machine for cutting and grinding stone can be assembled on the basis of an electric sharpener or an electric drilling device. Such a device has two shaft outputs, one equipped with a cartridge (caliper), the other with an emery wheel or a special faceplate with diamond or other coating. Device power 0.25 kW, rotation speed 2800 rpm.

For stone processing, other electric motors can be used in the power range from 0.25 to 0.5 kW and speed from 1500 to 3000 rpm.

A box with a hinged lid can serve as a stand for the machine. The machine is attached to the cover with bolts. The hinged cover allows for some operations to install the machine in a tilted position.

A side table is attached to the box on the chuck side. Its height is adjustable so that you can work with cutting wheels of different diameters.

The side table has a guide bar made of a 30 x 30 mm duralumin corner. A protective guard for the cutting wheel is installed on the side. A middle line is drawn along the table and the protective fence, which helps to orient the stone when cutting.

To soundproof the machine, the bottom of the stand box and the supports of the side table are covered with rubber or felt.

A tray with water is placed under the machine table attachment to cool the cutting wheel. To reduce friction, you can add a soap solution to the water. The second water pan is installed under the faceplate.

Homemade stone-cutting machines can be of an improved, unusual design. The main thing is to follow safety precautions when working with stone.

A wood saw travels the same distance in seconds. Because diamond cutting blades are much thinner and many times more expensive than wood saws, they must be handled very carefully to avoid jamming, bending and breaking. There are great demands placed on the precision of manufacturing stone-cutting saws. high requirements. This is a subtle technique.

If the size of the stone is more than 50–70 mm, holding it in your hands when sawing is impractical - it is inconvenient. But the stone natural material, so it rarely has a flat surface and cannot be mounted stably on the saw table. It is necessary to use various clamps so that they firmly hold the stone and prevent it from turning or shaking. The clamp is attached to a caliper that slides along guides to the cutting disc. The stone is fed slowly and carefully to ensure only the lightest contact with the cutting disc.

So, the main components of a stone-cutting saw are: the spindle on which the cutting disc is attached; drive device for rotating the disk; support with clamp for stone; container for holding coolant and frame.

Those who want to make a stone-cutting machine with their own hands need to know that the cutting discs must be installed on sufficiently thick steel shafts to maintain the rigidity of the structure and the accuracy of its operation under the influence of applied stresses.

Small discs (up to 100mm diameter) can work well on 12mm diameter shafts, although 15mm diameter shafts should be preferred. For discs with a diameter of up to 400 mm, a shaft diameter of 18–25 mm is required. The end of the shaft can be of a smaller diameter if the rest has the same diameter.

The discs are secured with flanges on both sides to ensure rigidity and uniform rotation. Thin discs require larger flanges than thicker discs. For a disc with a diameter of 112 mm, flanges with a diameter of 75 mm should be used; for 200 mm discs – flanges 37–50 mm; for 300–400 mm – flanges 75 87 mm. In some cases, when it is necessary, for example, to cut thin slots with great precision, the flanges may only be 12 mm short of the edge of the disk.

All parts of the machine table (body, enclosing visor, bath and top plate) can be glued together from plexiglass, only for the body and table you need to take plexiglass 5-6 mm thick - this will make the structure rigid and durable. It is better to supply water through a copper tube with a diameter of 3-4 mm. You need to bend the tube in a semicircle, solder a supply fitting from the same tube to it and put a rubber hose on it to supply cold water. The tube should cover the diamond saw on both sides.

To give the stone a stable position, its edge is ground (cut off). The resulting support pad is pressed against the stop and passed through a diamond saw.
You can also place the stone in a cardboard box, fill it with cement or plaster and, when it hardens, cut it. Upon completion of sawing, the fixing cement and plaster must be carefully removed. If you have to cut a cracked stone, it is first treated with epoxy glue and allowed to dry.

You can extend the service life of a diamond cutting wheel by installing angular contact bearings on the machine shaft, which will relieve the shaft from longitudinal and transverse play, as well as by using a piece of emery wheel, which will minimize the eccentricity of the cutting wheel. When the machine operates, a lot of sludge is generated (a mixture of abrasive and stone waste). To prevent it, along with water, from getting onto the bearings and other rotating parts of the machine, you need to cover them with a screen, gasket, etc.

To manufacture a cutting machine, it is necessary that the rotation frequency of the diamond cutting wheel be equal to 1500-2500 rpm at a peripheral speed of 15-25 m/s. Weak, cracked stones are best cut at low speeds (1000-1500 rpm). The optimal grit size for a diamond cutting wheel is 250/200, 200/160, 160/125 and 125/100. It is not advisable to use wheels with a smaller grain size in amateur practice due to the sharp increase in cutting time.

Now about the design of the cutting machine. Home machine- this is a lot of compromises and simplifications compared to industrial, but it also has strict requirements. The most important of them is to minimize the eccentricity of the cutting wheel on the shaft, the eccentricity of the bearing shafts, longitudinal and especially transverse play of the shaft (good results can be obtained using angular contact rolling bearings). These measures will significantly extend the service life of the cutting wheel and avoid nail-like chips on the surface of the stone.

The shaft bearings must be protected from sludge that is formed during cutting and, together with the coolant, splashes and settles on the machine parts. Sludge has high abrasive and corrosive properties. Conventional felt or rubber seals do not protect the bearings enough; at a minimum, shielding protection is also needed.

The easiest way is to make a machine in which the diamond wheel is mounted directly on the axis of the electric motor. The rotation speed of a circle with a diameter of 200 mm should be 2500-3000 rpm. With this design, the motor bearings need to be very precise (for example, plain bearings) and the rotor must be well balanced. Otherwise, such an expensive and rare tool as a diamond wheel will not last long.
If it is not possible to purchase a good motor, you should choose a machine design with an elastic connection between the motor and the wheel.

V-belt transmission gives the best results. It absorbs hard impacts when the stone is distorted, allows you to remove the engine from an area of high humidity, and by simply selecting the diameters of the pulleys, you can obtain the rotation frequency necessary for good operation of the diamond wheel, regardless of engine speed. The design must be thought out so that it is easy to replace cutting discs without disassembling the machine. The diameter of the flange attaching the circle to the shaft can be small, only 8-10 millimeters larger than the diameter mounting hole circle. It is best to purchase a single-phase, asynchronous electric motor with a power of 180-230 watts. Such motors are used in household appliances and are always available for sale.

The coolant must be supplied to the circle from both sides, so that its entire surface is wetted. Usually it is supplied with two flexible tubes, slightly pressed to the sides of the circle. They are located closer to the axis and 30-40 millimeters above the line connecting the shaft axis with the center of the working section of the circle.
When cutting, coolant splashes out and you have to make sure it gets into the catch basin.

When developing protection, you should remember that about 60-70% of the water is sprayed in the plane of rotation of the disk. The spread to the sides occurs at an angle not exceeding 5-10 degrees. The figure shows the direction of liquid expansion. It is most difficult to cope with the remaining 30-40% of the liquid, since it is this part that scatters quite evenly in all directions. Fortunately, the spatter generated where the disc enters the stone contains almost no sludge. The sludge comes out from below and sinks into the bath.

Good protection against splashing can be obtained in the following design. Here, in front of the bath, an apron made of polyethylene or oilcloth is attached, the upper part of which is fastened around the master’s neck. If it is made wide enough, then almost all the splashes flying outside the machine end up on the apron and flow down it into the bathtub. From the bath, liquid with sludge is removed from the machine through a tube (diameter of at least 10 millimeters). The amount of water supplied will have to be selected experimentally, but, as a rule, it is enough so that when the motor is not running, a thin stream flows from the circle (always on both sides) and does not separate into drops, at least during 3-5 centimeters of its free fall.

You should not make the machine particularly light; the greater its weight, the larger samples it can cut. It is best to mount the machine permanently. For example, in some nightstand. You can cut a stone either on a stop (table), pressing the stone against it and moving it along the surface, or without it, when you simply hold the stone with both hands. The advantages of the latter method are that you can completely arbitrarily select the cutting plane, regardless of the shape of the stone, and slowly rotate it in this plane, which speeds up the process by 2-5 times. The disadvantages include the relatively rapid wear of the tool (uneven development of the cutting edge) and the fact that it is quite difficult to keep the stone in the cutting plane.
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This technique should be mastered with caution, since if it is skewed, the stone can be knocked out of your hands and the tool can be broken. When working with a stop, the cutting plane is forced to be selected so that the stone rests firmly on the table and does not swing on it. Cutting with a stop is easier and safer in terms of tool breakage, the diamond wheel is better preserved, but the process is much slower. The stone is fed onto the wheel with slight pressure, this increases the cutting speed, but too much pressure leads to chipping of the diamond grains that have not yet been worn out. However, the skill appears quite quickly.

As already mentioned, stone can be cut without a diamond wheel, as was done before its appearance. For cutting, take a brass or copper disk and abrasive powder, supplied to the cutting site in the form of a slurry. Additional cooling is not required, since the heating in this case is insignificant. Any of the above-mentioned machines, in which the disk rotation speed is reduced to 200-300 rpm, is suitable for work. At higher speeds, loose abrasive will be thrown off the disc. Cutting takes a very long time, and to speed it up, it is advisable to make a device that automatically feeds the pulp and holds the stone. Here the stone is fed under the influence of its own weight and the weight of the lever on which it is rigidly fixed.

The other end of the lever rotates freely around axis AA, strictly parallel to the axis of the cutting wheel. Rotating, the cutting wheel passes through a layer of oil-abrasive suspension and carries cutting particles along with the oil. Considering the slowness of the process, you can attach a limit switch in the path of the lever to automatically turn off the machine at the end of cutting.
In addition to the methods described above, stone is also cut with strips - straight blades similar to hacksaw blades. Strips are made of steel with diamond cutting part. Strip machines are used for simultaneous cutting of stone into several plates. A frame with strips attached in parallel is lowered onto the stone block. The crank mechanism gives it reciprocating movements. The cutting field is irrigated with a liquid that cools, lubricates and carries away cuttings. Based on this principle, one can imagine different versions of an amateur machine that does not work with diamond tool, but with an abrasive suspension.

The most common method of feeding stone cutting tool. The opposite option is possible: the stone is fixed, a cutting tool mounted together with the engine on a swinging frame is fed.

A stone saw is no different from a regular circular saw for wood and is, in fact, quite simple mechanism. In both designs you can see almost the same devices.

The main parts of a stone cutting machine are:

steel shaft or spindle on which the disk is mounted,
pulley and V-belt connecting the shaft to the electric motor,
as well as a platform, or support, where the material to be cut is placed.

The stone-cutting saw must have a container with coolant in it to immerse the disk in while it rotates, in order to cool the saw and wash out stone dust from it.

The principle of operation of a stone cutting saw is the same as that of wood saws, but we must remember that minerals are much harder than wood and therefore working with them requires special techniques that need to be learned. A good diamond saw cuts soft minerals at a speed of about 5 mm/min, and harder and tougher minerals at a slightly lower speed. A wood saw travels the same distance in seconds. Because diamond cutting blades are much thinner and many times more expensive than wood saws, they must be handled very carefully to avoid jamming, bending and breaking. Very high demands are placed on the precision of manufacturing stone-cutting saws. This is a subtle technique.

If the size of the stone is more than 50–70 mm, holding it in your hands when sawing is impractical - it is inconvenient. But stone is a natural material, so it rarely has a flat surface and cannot be placed firmly on the saw table. It is necessary to use various clamps so that they firmly hold the stone and prevent it from turning or shaking. The clamp is attached to a caliper that slides along guides to the cutting disc. The stone is fed slowly and carefully to ensure only the lightest contact with the cutting disc.

So, the main components of a stone-cutting saw are: a spindle on which the cutting disc is mounted; drive device for rotating the disk; support with clamp for stone; container for holding coolant and frame.

The discs are secured with flanges on both sides to ensure rigidity and uniform rotation. Thin discs require larger flanges than thicker discs. For a disc with a diameter of 112 mm, flanges with a diameter of 75 mm should be used; for 200 mm discs – flanges 37–50 mm; for 300–400 mm – flanges 75 87 mm. In some cases, when it is necessary, for example, to cut thin slots with great precision, the flanges may only be 12 mm short of the edge of the disk.

The saw shaft is equipped with bearings to ensure easy and precise rotation. Ball bearings are durable and must be used. The ball bearing saw maintains accuracy after many hours of cutting stone, which ensures a straight cut and long-term performance of the cutting disc.

Some saws use plain bearings, but saws with such bearings quickly lose accuracy if significant forces are applied to the ends of the shafts. The shafts begin to vibrate and cutting accuracy is lost. Therefore, most modern saws use only ball bearings.

Most bearings, of course, need lubrication, especially plain bearings, where a thin film of oil helps center the shaft and prevent friction.

Today developed several types of bearings that do without lubrication at all or require it occasionally. Some ball bearings are filled with lubricant during their manufacture, and subsequently they no longer require refilling due to the presence of oil seals. These bearings are protected from abrasive powder, which quickly damages other types of bearings.

Sliding bearings made of porous bronze also require no maintenance. The bronze in them is impregnated with oil, providing lubrication for many days.

It must be remembered that the shaft of any stone-cutting equipment, regardless of its type, must be rigid and not bend, and bearings of any design must ensure rotation accuracy - then sawing the stone will proceed without difficulty.

The support and clamping devices of the machine are the next most important parts after the cutting discs and spindle. They serve to hold and feed the stone to the cutting disc. Modern machines equipped with massive supports and clamps that allow you to easily and accurately manipulate the stone from small size(5–7 cm) to large – 30 cm.

To clamp the stone, for reasons of strength, metal jaws are usually used, but their inner surface is usually lined with pieces of hard wood, due to the elasticity of which the stone is better grasped. The caliper slides or rolls forward along guides that are adjusted to allow the caliper to advance a certain distance. The most important requirement, presented to any stone-cutting machine, is that. If this is not the case, then when sawing large stones, the disc will rub against the stone and bend.

Caliper feed in simple machines carried out due to the gravity of the load attached to the cable, which is thrown over the block and connected to the sliding caliper, moving towards the cutting disc. The master turns on the motor and moves the caliper with his hands so that sawing of the stone begins. When the cutting depth reaches 12 mm or more, the load is allowed to pull the caliper. The weight of the load is adjusted depending on the size of the stone being cut.

This design has disadvantages.

Since most of the processed stones are of irregular shape, their cross-section changes, i.e. in some places they will be wider and in others narrower.

Consequently, the load should be either heavier or lighter. Therefore, if constant attention is not paid to sawing, it will be difficult to regulate the weight of the load. If the load is heavy enough, then the cutting disc, when it hits thin sections, will experience increased pressure that is harmful to it and will quickly become unusable. If you select the mass of the load, counting on thin sections, then this will delay the cutting of thick sections.

Another disadvantage of the design is that at the end of sawing, when the cross-section of the stone suddenly narrows and the speed of the cutting disk increases sharply due to a decrease in resistance, the remaining piece of stone often breaks off and a toothed protrusion remains in the path of the cutting disk, which is not cut off when the disk moves further , but fits onto it, which causes the disk to bend into the shape of a plate. And the curved disk in further work becomes more and more crooked, and finally, the deformation reaches such proportions that further sawing is impossible and the disc has to be thrown away, even if there is a lot of unused diamond left on it.

But such machines are inexpensive, since they do not have complex mechanism feed, and if the amateur craftsman is familiar with the indicated disadvantages, he, using the saw with appropriate precautions, can obtain good results.

From mechanical methods caliper feed Screw feed and feed using an adjustable mass load are especially often used.

Screw feed uses a long threaded shaft that passes through the caliper or is connected to it by means of a running nut. As the cutting disc rotates, the shaft rotates slowly and moves the caliper forward. Some machines provide different shaft rotation speeds and, therefore, the ability to adjust the feed speed of the support. Large sections or viscous materials such as jade or chalcedony require minimum feed rates.

Soft materials (calcite onyx or serpentine) can be sawed at higher feed speeds. Valuable feature Some machines with mechanical feed are equipped with a clutch, which prevents the disk from jamming in the stone if the speed of cutting the stone lags behind the speed of its feed.

Clamping devices

Many supports are equipped with a cross feed, which allows you to cut several plates from the stone at once before the stone moves in the clamp. The stone should be clamped very carefully so that it does not break out during sawing and damage the disc. Many beginning amateurs, when cutting a stone into slabs, insert only a small part of it into the clamps, hoping to get as many slabs as possible before the next repositioning of the stone. But if the stone is not securely fastened, it can move and sometimes bend the cutting disc so much that the damage is irreparable.

Precision clamps make it possible to cut plates up to 1.5 mm thick or blocks up to 100 mm thick.

Coolants for stone cutting machines

The stone-cutting machine must be equipped with a bath of liquid through which the cutting disc will pass during rotation. When cutting stone, a lot of heat is generated. This heat, as well as the stone dust generated during cutting, must be removed. But the liquid is also needed as a lubricant, reducing friction between the disc and the stone.

Liquids used when cutting stone are called.

However, cooling is not their only purpose. It is convenient to use light, almost colorless oils, which are used in car repair shops, as well as kerosene, to which regular motor oil is added in the proportion of 1-2 parts oil to 10 parts kerosene.

Diesel fuel can also be used.

Diesel fuel and kerosene are flammable. It is best to keep them outside the house or room where the stone is being processed, and not spill them on the floor. The floor under the machine should be covered with a material from which spilled liquid can be easily wiped off, and oily rags should be thrown away in a safe place.

For sawing stone, you can use water-oil emulsions, which are used when processing metal on metal-cutting machines. However, they can contribute to corrosion of machine parts, even if they are thoroughly wiped and cleaned.

Therefore, manufacturers of stone-processing machines require that emulsions and water not be used in their work.

Antifreeze, used in cars as an antifreeze liquid, is used as a coolant with good results. It evaporates slowly, is non-flammable and has almost no odor.

When cutting stones, you need to have a bucket or basin with solution on hand. detergent for washing cut plates from excess oil.

For large-scale sawing, there should be a box with sawdust to absorb excess oil, and care must be taken to ensure fire safety.

Rags used to remove oil should not be stored in closed containers as they may spontaneously ignite. Cooling oils penetrate stone easily, so they must be removed quickly to minimize contamination of the art and jewelry material.

Turquoise, variscite and other porous minerals absorb oil very quickly, so before sawing they need to be soaked in water for several days, which will fill the pores and prevent oil penetration.

A sludge of fine particles of stone dust forms at the bottom of the pan, which must be removed periodically. In order for the sludge to settle tightly to the bottom of the pan, do not use the saw for several days. The liquid above the sludge is then carefully drained and reused if desired. The pan is thoroughly cleaned, purified oil is poured into it and a portion of fresh is added to bring the liquid level to the appropriate level. According to the rules, the cutting disc should be immersed in liquid to a depth of no more than 6 - 12 mm.

Many stone-cutting saws are designed in such a way that the tank not only serves as a container for coolant, but is also a structural element that carries the spindle and support. Then the tank is usually made of thick steel sheet, welding the joints.

In other types of machines, the tank is made of thin sheet steel and inserted into wooden box, which serves as the basis for the entire design of the machine. It is important that it be rigid, since it supports the support and the spindle with the cutting disc and ensures their strictly defined location relative to each other.

Regardless of whether the machine is homemade or manufactured by industry, it must stand upright and firmly on its base.

Noise and vibration can be significantly reduced by placing felt or sponge rubber under the machine supports. You can also make a special stand for the machine from boards, preferably with a cross-section of 60 x 120 mm.

The machine needs a protective casing that would trap oil splashes when the cutting disc rotates and return it to the tank. Casings are made of metal and plastic.

When designing a homemade stone-cutting machine, you need to know that the main thing in it is the spindle– the place where the cutting disc is mounted and the support that feeds the stone to the disc. The support for both units is the coolant tank, which should ensure that the location of these units relative to each other remains unchanged during sawing. It is best to make the tank from sheet steel 3 mm thick, welding the joints. But it can also be made from boards or thick plywood (12 mm), lined from the inside with sheet metal soldered at the joints. If such a tank is made well, it will be in no way inferior to a tank made of metal.

The spindle is attached to the side wall of the finished tank using bolts and washers.

If the walls of the tank are made of wood, you need to use large washers so that the wood does not press through and the bolts do not become loose. The stone clamp can be made from a block of hard wood with a cross-section of 60 x 120 mm, at one end of which a regular door hinge is attached as a hinge. The stone is clamped using long bolts with wing nuts. Since the loop cannot move in the longitudinal direction, it becomes necessary to rearrange the stone in the clamp more than once. But if you fasten a piece of pipe across the tank, along which a sleeve slides, connected to this block by a lever, then you can cut off several plates at once without rearranging the stone in the clamp.

To make the machine you will also need motor with a power of about 0.25 kW, V-belt and protective cover. The back wall of the casing is made of a metal sheet, and the sides and front sides are covered with strips of fabric that can be lifted to monitor the sawing of the stone.

The finished machine and motor are installed on a common base, with sheets of sponge rubber or felt placed under them to reduce noise and vibration.

A machine for cutting and grinding stone This device has two shaft outputs, one equipped with a chuck (caliper), the other with an emery wheel or a special faceplate with a diamond or other coating. Device power 0.25 kW, rotation speed 2800 rpm.

For stone processing, other electric motors can be used in the power range from 0.25 to 0.5 kW and speed from 1500 to 3000 rpm.

A box with a hinged lid can serve as a stand for the machine. The machine is attached to the cover with bolts. The hinged cover allows for some operations to install the machine in a tilted position.

A side table is attached to the box on the chuck side. Its height is adjustable so that you can work with cutting wheels of different diameters.

To soundproof the machine, the bottom of the stand box and the supports of the side table are covered with rubber or felt.

Homemade stone-cutting machines can be of an improved, unusual design. The main thing is to follow safety precautions when working with stone.

Stone cutting machines

Let's take a closer look at the first stone processing operation - cutting.

In the old days, when there were no diamond saws, stone was cut with copper or brass wheels, feeding abrasive powder diluted with water into the cut. The rotation speed of the circles was relatively low - from 200 to 300 rpm. As the rotation speed increased, the loose abrasive was easily thrown off the wheel. Cutting was therefore a very lengthy procedure. In the designs of the machines, they tried to use various mechanical devices that fixed the stone, ensured its uniform pressure on the saw, gradually supplied abrasive powder and turned off the machine after finishing cutting.

Description and characteristics of popular stone cutting machines

The stone was also cut with strips - straight steel saws, using abrasive powder in the cutting area.

Schematic diagram of a machine for cutting stone: 1 - table; 2, 4 - visors; 3 - stone; 5 - cutting diamond wheel; 6 - water tank; 7 - water

A machine for cutting small samples can easily be made from the “Skillful Hands” kit of type K-1, produced by the Mogilev Electrodvigatel plant. In it, you need to slightly modify the base of the machine, make a table and a mandrel for attaching a diamond saw. The Skillful Hands kit includes a single-phase electric motor with a power of 250 W and a speed of 2500 revolutions per minute, which is quite enough to install a diamond cutting wheel with a diameter of 125 mm (in this case, the peripheral speed will be 14.8 m/s) for cutting hard stones of height up to 30 mm.

All parts of the machine table (body, enclosing canopy, bath and top plate) can be glued together from plexiglass, only for the body and table you need to take plexiglass 5-6 mm thick - this will make the structure rigid and durable. It is better to supply water through a copper tube with a diameter of 3-4 mm. You need to bend the tube in a semicircle, solder a supply fitting from the same tube to it and put a rubber hose on it to supply cold water. The tube should cover the diamond saw on both sides.

To give the stone a stable position, its edge is ground (cut off). The resulting support pad is pressed against the stop and passed through a diamond saw.

You can also place the stone in a cardboard box, fill it with cement or plaster and, when it hardens, cut it. Upon completion of sawing, the fixing cement and plaster must be carefully removed. If you have to cut a cracked stone, it is first treated with epoxy glue and allowed to dry.

You can extend the service life of a diamond cutting wheel by installing angular contact bearings on the machine shaft, which will relieve the shaft from longitudinal and transverse play, as well as by using a piece of emery wheel, which will minimize the eccentricity of the cutting wheel. When the machine operates, a lot of sludge is generated (a mixture of abrasive and stone waste). To prevent it, along with water, from getting onto the bearings and other rotating parts of the machine, you need to cover them with a screen, gasket, etc.

It is more convenient to cut a stone when it moves towards the circle. Options for positioning the plane of the cutting machine table in relation to the cutting wheel are shown in the figure.

Options for installing the thrust table relative to the diamond cutting wheel: 1 - optimal; 2 - mediocre; 3 - worst

If the stone is small in size, it can be polished rather than cut.

The machine shown in the following figure differs favorably from the previous one in that the torque from the engine is transmitted to the saw by an elastic connection, which well absorbs shocks that occur when the stone is distorted, and makes it possible to remove the electric motor from an area of high humidity, thereby complying with the basic safety rules , and, just as important, get up to three rotation speeds using replaceable or stepped pulleys. Any V-belt from a washing machine can be used as an elastic connection.

Stone cutting machine. The diamond cutting wheel and the electric motor are located on one swinging frame: 1 - diamond cutting wheel; 2 - belt; 3 - motor; 4 - stone; 5 - clamping device; 6 - handle

You can, of course, install the sharpening machine vertically and attach a grinding wheel to its shaft, but this is also not a solution. If you place the electric motor vertically, its housing and bearings will quickly heat up, some force will appear along the shaft, and the presence of one speed, sometimes high, does not make it possible to process stone with bulk abrasive and other work. This is why you will eventually have to design a machine with a horizontally mounted roughing tool. The design of two types of such a machine can be seen in the following figure.

The diagram shows that the shaft on which the faceplate is mounted is connected to the electric motor by a V-belt drive. The drive pulley allows the machine to operate at three speeds.

The author made a grinding machine in which the electric motor is located under the cover. The faceplate operates in a plastic housing. It is necessary for collecting sludge and makes it possible not to fear for the integrity of a stone that unexpectedly jumped out of your hands during grinding. A rubber gasket is attached along the perimeter of the plastic case, on which the hand rests during operation. The general view of the machine is shown in the figure:

Grinding machine

The grinding machine consists of a frame, on the top cover of which a vertical spindle is installed:

Centering unit with a vertical shaft and bushing for working with diamond tools: 1 - bushing; 2 - clamping nut; 3 - table cover; 4 - washer; 5 - body; 6.9 - bearings; 7 - shaft; 8 - pulley

The machine has two three-stage pulleys. One of them is fixed at the end of the vertical shaft, and the other is attached to the electric motor shaft. At the upper end of the spindle, a cast iron faceplate or diamond cup is secured with a fitting. Torque is transmitted from the electric motor using V-belt transmission. As already mentioned, to collect sludge and prevent splashing of water and abrasive, the machine is equipped with a plastic case, on top of which a rubber gasket is secured. The plastic body should be 5-6 cm above the surface of the faceplate. The machine has a switch and grounding.

Everything about stone processing...

10.09.2010, 07:35

Stone processing - http://shpuntik.kulichki.net/sov00825.html
grinding stones - http://shpuntik.kulichki.net/sov00826.html

10.09.2010, 07:43

http://basik.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=442
Here is another link: the guys posted photos of their stone grinding machines.

18.12.2011, 17:57

homemade rpm 100-5000 smoothly, 800 watts

18.12.2011, 19:48

Slyudyan, I see that your engine is from a washing machine. Share your secret, how do you manage it?
With a diagram, if possible.

Processing stones at home

19.12.2011, 06:08

Slyudyan wrote: homemade rpm 100-5000 smoothly, 800 watts

Which washing machine has an 800 watt motor? I haven’t found more than 180 on washing machines, and 180 is not enough, as a result, I’m thinking about buying a new one and a half kilowatt engine...

19.12.2011, 09:01

The engine is Italian, the tachometer is easy to install, it is controlled via a teristor (from a 2 kW electric drill), a button with a regulator, a phase zero switch to the right - to the left on the brushes

19.12.2011, 09:08

spindle from the front hub of a Zhiguli