Do-it-yourself caulking of a log house: tasks, stages, working tools and materials. Caulking a log house: how, when and with what should it be done? We need to caulk the log house

Finishing wooden house includes a number compulsory work, among which caulking occupies an important part. Caulking is done several times. The first caulking is done during or immediately after the construction of the house. The second time the house is caulked after the completion of the shrinkage processes, which, depending on the type and moisture content of the wood, last from one to two years. In some cases, a log house requires a third caulking, which is performed 5-6 years after construction. Is it possible to caulk in winter? This question is relevant for many, since it is not always possible to carry out caulking during the warm period. Let's figure out when it is better to caulk a log house: in winter or summer, and why.

Wood is a living material, it is very sensitive to weather conditions, fluctuations in temperature and air humidity lead to changes linear dimensions wooden house. Even many years after cutting, natural shrinkage processes occur in the wood, the tree breathes, the fibers compress and stretch. These processes are especially active in the summer. IN winter period the log house shrinks much more slowly.

Shrinkage is accompanied by deformation wooden structure. As a result, new cracks and gaps appear between the crowns of the logs; often different sides of the house sit unevenly, which leads to the structure being skewed.

All resulting defects are eliminated with caulk, with the help of which the cracks are removed, the structure is leveled and the house takes on the correct shape.

Please note that caulking is performed simultaneously outside and inside the house. Work begins with the lower crowns along the entire perimeter of the log house; first, the outer crown is caulked, then it is insulated from the inside. This sequence of work is necessary to uniformly raise the height of the house, which increases by 10-15 cm during caulking.

Caulking is usually done in the warm season. There is an opinion that it is undesirable to caulk a log house in winter, since shrinkage processes are slow at this time, and in spring and summer the house will continue to shrink, new cracks will appear and it will be necessary to re-caulk it.

This is not entirely true. The first rough caulking is usually done in winter time. Winter is best period for the construction of a wooden house, since at low temperatures the house shrinks more evenly than during the heat. During construction, insulation is laid between the logs, and then after the log house is placed under the roof, the overhanging edges insulation material driven into the joints between logs.

The main condition that must be met before performing the second caulking is the passage of shrinkage processes, i.e. By the time of the main caulking, the log house should already have undergone primary shrinkage. In the first year or two after construction, the house shrinks by 90% of the total shrinkage value. It is very important that the timber inside dries well and the wood moisture content is within 20%. If both conditions are met, then you can safely caulk log house in winter.

Putting up a log house from a log or timber is not the whole task. You also need to know how to properly caulk this log house: seal the gaps between the crowns and the cracks that form when the wood dries out. This is done so that the log house of the bathhouse loses as little heat as possible.

Basic principles

The quality of the log house's assembly is determined by how the crowns are laid. It is important not only to cut out the bowls and grooves correctly - between two rows of logs or beams, be sure to lay inter-crown insulation.

The insulation is installed during the assembly stage of the log house

What it will be - moss, tow or jute - is up to you, but such a layer must be present. When building a log house, you need to lay insulation in two layers:

on the lower crown so that the edges of the insulation protrude beyond the edges of the bowl by 3-5 cm, the width of the insulation, in general, is taken 5-10 cm more than the width of the bowl;
Insulation is also placed in the bowl of the upper crown; its edges protrude beyond the bowl by 3-5 cm.

Please note that when using moss or tow, there is no need to “tap” the material. When tapped with a hammer or an ax butt, the moss fibers break and dents form on the wood, which are directed across the fibers. Such damage can lead, in the future, to the development of foci of rotting. It is enough to simply compact the fibers with the palm of your hand, leveling and probing the layer; if you come across large foreign objects (cones or sticks are often found in moss), simply remove them.

Laying moss when assembling a log house

When using tape insulation, you can fix it using construction stapler– damage to wood from staples is minimal, and the material is held securely. It is advisable for two people to lay the “insulated” crowns so that they can take the log from both ends and lower it so as not to move the insulation.

How to caulk a log bathhouse

All materials for caulking can be divided into two main categories: natural (tow, hemp, moss, jute, etc.) and industrial sealants. Sealants are applied faster and easier to work with. Usually, to reduce the consumption of sealant, a cord is placed in the gap between the rims, and only then a sealant is applied on top of it, which, when wet, is leveled with a special spatula.

When caulking, it is not appropriate to have a spatula-scalpel at hand. The working part of the tool is made of hardened carbon steel

Synthetic sealants have a number of disadvantages:

some of them do not tolerate exposure to ultraviolet radiation - when irradiated, they lose their properties, crumble and are blown away by the winds. The problem is solved by strengthening strips that will cover the seams from ultraviolet radiation;
Some sealants for log houses, when dry, form a monolith, which, when the wood expands/contracts (depending on weather conditions) interferes with the process and contributes to the destruction of adjacent wood fibers. For this reason, it makes sense to use flexible sealants.

If you decide to use one of the sealants, carefully read the instructions and description, make sure that it is compatible with the type of wood from which the log house is built and can be used in your region ( temperature regime) and has necessary qualities.

The use of sealant is justified in the case when it is used to seal caulked cracks: after caulking the log house twice with tow, moss or jute, wait for the log house to completely shrink and acquire operational dimensions, after which a cord is laid in the seams, and then the sealant is applied.

Natural materials for caulking also have their advantages and disadvantages, in addition, each of them requires certain preparation.

Moss

The most proven material for caulking a bathhouse is moss. It has been used for centuries. Today, many other materials have appeared, but they have not surpassed moss in terms of characteristics. It is more convenient to work with new materials (especially tape materials). This is undeniable, but the qualities of moss remained unattainable for them. Chief among them is the ability to resist bacteria and high resistance to rotting.

Not aesthetically pleasing, but practical

The moss is first dried and then wetted again before use. This restores elasticity to the stems. The soaked moss is laid out in an even layer so that its ends hang down on both sides of the log/beam. After completing the collection of the log too long stems the moss is trimmed, everything else is tucked in and tucked into the cracks of the log house - the initial caulking of the log house is performed. This is followed, after six months and after a year and a half, by repeated caulking.

Jute

Increasingly in construction wooden baths and jute is used in houses. And not just jute fibers, but roll material. Jute fiber has good characteristics: it has good heat-insulating properties, due to large quantity lignin - a natural resin that serves as a binding element - it is practically not subject to rotting and has low hygroscopicity. Even with high humidity, the jute remains dry to the touch.

Jute insulation can be of several types/
Jute tow
When making this material, the fibers are not torn, but combed, giving them the required direction. With this processing, jute retains its properties to the maximum extent. But such material is inconvenient for caulking: it is hard and not dense enough, working with it is quite difficult, caulking has to be done several times: firstly, the birds pull the fiber into nests (the material is natural), secondly, it shrinks and becomes compacted ( due to the rigidity, it is not possible to immediately achieve the required seam density in one go).

Jute tow

Jute felt
This is a material consisting of 90% torn jute fibers and 10% long flax fibers. The material is dense and flexible at the same time. It is much easier to work with, but if the fibers are not long enough, it tends to clump and fall out. When choosing jute for caulking, pay attention to the length of the fibers - only fibers longer than 2 cm will provide the required elasticity. Material made from shorter fibers will become denser and lose most of its properties, and short fibers will simply spill out or be blown away by the winds. Another disadvantage is that this material often becomes a breeding ground for moths. Therefore, before use, it is advisable to treat it with impregnation against moths and rot.

Jute for baths - jute felt

Flax-jute
A combined tape material consisting of half soft flax fibers and half hard jute fibers. This combination attracts many builders, but this material is prone to rot and is often attacked by moths. So, just like jute felt, flax-jute requires treatment against rotting and moths before use.

Tow

Tow - waste that is generated during primary processing natural fibers. For caulking log houses, tow made from jute, hemp and flax is used. The characteristics of the material and its quality depend on the source raw materials, the degree of purification of the fibers and their length. Construction tow is pressed into square blocks. For use when caulking log houses made of common block a strip of material is pulled out, twisted into a rope and placed into the seam. Combed tow, which is sold in rolls, is more convenient to use.

Tow for a bath

It is inconvenient to work with such material: to achieve a uniform layer when used as interventional insulation difficult, and for caulking a log house, tow is excessively rigid, which makes it almost impossible to achieve a tight filling of the seam the first time, and you have to periodically re-caulk it. If the choice is between moss and jute tow, then we can definitely say that moss is better for a bath - it has the ability to inhibit the development of putrefactive bacteria and fungi.

When to caulk a bathhouse

The log house is assembled, when is the first time you can caulk a fresh log bathhouse? If the log house was assembled with moss or tow, then remnants of material stick out between the crowns different lengths. In this case, you can perform the initial caulking immediately: trim the overly long fibers, tuck them inward and tuck them into the seams. There is no need to be zealous about this. This is preliminary work, the purpose of which is to remove fibers. But this must be done following the rules of caulking. If the log house is assembled on tape insulation, nothing needs to be done.

Bath after primary caulk

The first “serious” caulking is carried out approximately six months after the collection of the log house. During this time, the logs/beams will lose most of their excess moisture, new cracks will appear, the crowns and corners will basically “sit” in place. At this time, the first caulking is carried out. After this process, you can install doors/windows.

A second caulk will be needed about a year after the first. A year and a half has passed since the construction of the log house, the log house has become stable. Now all seams and cracks are checked, all defects are eliminated. Depending on the material and quality of work, it may be necessary, in another five years, to caulk the seams again. But there have been cases (usually this is the result of the work of “shabashniks”) when caulking errors are corrected for several years in a row. Most often, this need arises if the log house was built without inter-crown insulation.

How much tow do you need for a bath?

Any natural material for caulking, it is compressed many times during installation and a large amount of it can fit into a log house, even with good interventional insulation. No one can say exactly how much tow is needed for a bathhouse: it also depends on what material the log house is assembled from and how the grooves are cut out in the logs. At manual chopping grooves usually go away more material. Also, a sanded log requires more material compared to a rounded one. Less is required for a log house, but even here the amount of tow or moss that will be used to seal the cracks depends on the accuracy of the geometry of the beam and the depth/number of cracks that appear during drying.

Caulking rules

Caulking a log house is not a very difficult task, but it is long and tedious. Everything needs to be done thoroughly and slowly, so it takes a lot of time - it took 10 days to caulk a small 5*4 bathhouse (one worked for 7-8 hours).

The main thing is not to overdo it in the efforts made when hammering in the insulation, which can lead to the log house rising by 15 cm or more.

Rules for caulking a log house:

You need to start with lower crown, moving along the entire perimeter, first from the outside of the building, then caulk the same crown from the inside. And only after that start processing the next crown.
When caulking, pay attention Special attention at the corners - this is where the most significant gaps are often found.
During primary caulking, you first need to pick up the hanging material, bend it down and tuck it into the gap. The tool should be used as needed. Perform this operation on a section about a meter long, then move on to the next section.
In the same area, use caulk and a wooden mallet (sometimes a hammer is used, but the mallet does not knock off your hands so much) to compact the material. You need to hit the caulk until the material begins to spring back. Then move on to the next section.
After compaction, a gap formed. A piece of insulation is again placed in it. If it is tow, you need to roll it into a tourniquet required thickness or tear off a piece of the required length from the tape. This piece is also hammered with caulk and a mallet until a springy effect appears. Repeat this operation until the gap is completely filled and move on to the next section.

Like every business, caulking requires certain skills. Since there will be more than one such procedure, you will eventually gain skills. As you gain experience, you will notice the mistakes that you made at the beginning of your activity - this will be your chance to eliminate them. Actually, it is not the gods who burn the pots, but it is possible to caulk a log house more or less efficiently even if you have no experience.

Putting up a log house from a log or timber is not the whole task. It is also necessary to properly caulk this log house: to seal the gaps between the crowns and the cracks that form when the wood dries out. This is done so that the log house of the bathhouse loses as little heat as possible. The quality of the log house's assembly is determined by how the crowns are laid. It is important not only to cut out the bowls and grooves correctly, but also to lay inter-crown insulation between two rows of logs or beams.

The insulation is installed during the assembly stage of the log house

What it will be - moss, tow or jute - is up to you, but such a layer must be present. When building a log house, you need to lay insulation in two layers:

on the lower crown so that the edges of the insulation protrude beyond the edges of the bowl by 3-5 cm, the width of the insulation, in general, is taken 5-10 cm more than the width of the bowl;
Insulation is also placed in the bowl of the upper crown; its edges protrude beyond the bowl by 3-5 cm.

Laying moss when assembling a log house

When using tape insulation, you can fix it using a construction stapler - damage to the wood from the staples is minimal, and the material is held securely. It is advisable for two people to lay the “insulated” crowns so that they can take the log from both ends and lower it so as not to move the insulation.

1 How to caulk a log bathhouse
- 1.1 Moss
- 1.2 Jute
- 1.3 Tow
2 When to caulk a bathhouse
3 How much tow do you need for a bathhouse?
4 Rules for caulking

How to caulk a log bathhouse

When caulking, it is not appropriate to have a spatula-scalpel at hand. The working part of the tool is made of hardened carbon steel

Synthetic sealants have a number of disadvantages:

some of them do not tolerate exposure to ultraviolet radiation - when irradiated, they lose their properties, crumble and are blown away by the winds. The problem is solved by strengthening strips that will cover the seams from ultraviolet radiation;
Some sealants for log houses, when dry, form a monolith, which, when wood expands/contracts (depending on weather conditions), interferes with the process and contributes to the destruction of adjacent wood fibers. For this reason, it makes sense to use flexible sealants.

Elastic joint sealant for wood from EUROTEX

The video shows how to use Eurotex sealant.

As shown in the video above, you can use a regular tablespoon as a tool to level and remove excess sealant.

If you decide to use one of the sealants, carefully read the instructions and description, make sure that it is compatible with the type of wood from which the log house is built, can be used in your region (temperature regime) and has the necessary qualities.

Natural materials for caulking also have their advantages and disadvantages, in addition, each of them requires certain preparation.

Not aesthetically pleasing, but practical

The moss is first dried and then wetted again before use. This restores elasticity to the stems. The soaked moss is laid out in an even layer so that its ends hang down on both sides of the log/beam. After completing the collection of the log house, too long stems of moss are trimmed, everything else is tucked in and tucked into the cracks of the log house - the initial caulking of the log house is performed. This is followed, after six months and after a year and a half, by repeated caulking.

Jute is increasingly being used in the construction of wooden bathhouses and houses. And not just jute fibers, but rolled material. Jute fiber has good characteristics: it has good heat-insulating properties, due to the large amount of lignin - a natural resin that serves as a binding element - it is practically not subject to rotting and has low hygroscopicity. Even at high humidity, jute remains dry to the touch.

Jute insulation can be of several types:

Tow is waste that is generated during the primary processing of natural fibers. For caulking log houses, tow made from jute, hemp and flax is used. The characteristics of the material and its quality depend on the source raw materials, the degree of purification of the fibers and their length. Construction tow is pressed into square blocks. To use when caulking a log house, a strip of material is pulled out from a common block, twisted into a rope and placed in the seam. Combed tow, which is sold in rolls, is more convenient to use.

Tow for a bath

It is inconvenient to work with such material: it is difficult to achieve a uniform layer when used as inter-crown insulation, and for caulking a log house, tow is excessively rigid, which is why it is almost impossible to achieve a dense filling of the seam the first time and you have to periodically re-caulk it. If the choice is between moss and jute tow, then we can definitely say that moss is better for a bath - it has the ability to inhibit the development of putrefactive bacteria and fungi.

When to caulk a bathhouse

The log house is assembled, when is the first time you can caulk a fresh log bathhouse? If the log house was assembled using moss or tow, then remnants of material of different lengths stick out between the crowns. In this case, you can perform the initial caulking immediately: trim the overly long fibers, tuck them inward and tuck them into the seams. There is no need to be zealous about this. This is preliminary work, the purpose of which is to remove fibers. But this must be done following the rules of caulking. If the log house is assembled on tape insulation, nothing needs to be done.

Bath after initial caulking

The first “serious” caulking is carried out approximately six months after the collection of the log house. During this time, the logs/beams will lose most of the excess moisture, new cracks will appear, the crowns and corners will basically “sit” in place. At this time, the first caulking is carried out. After this process, you can install doors/windows.

How much tow do you need for a bath?

Any natural material for caulking is compressed many times during installation and a large amount of it can fit into a log house, even with good inter-crown insulation. No one can say exactly how much tow is needed for a bathhouse: it also depends on what material the log house is assembled from and how the grooves are cut out in the logs. When manually cutting grooves, as a rule, more material is wasted. Also, a sanded log requires more material compared to a rounded one. Less is required for a log house, but even here the amount of tow or moss that will be used to seal the cracks depends on the accuracy of the geometry of the beam and the depth/number of cracks that appear during drying.

Caulking rules

The main thing is not to overdo it in the efforts made when hammering in the insulation, which can lead to the log house rising by 15 cm or more.

Rules for caulking a log house:

You need to start from the bottom crown, moving along the entire perimeter, first from the outside of the building, then caulk the same crown from the inside. And only after that start processing the next crown.
When caulking, pay special attention to the corners - these are often where the most significant gaps are located.
During primary caulking, you first need to pick up the hanging material, bend it down and tuck it into the gap. The tool should be used as needed. Perform this operation on a section about a meter long, then move on to the next section.
In the same area, use caulk and a wooden mallet (sometimes a hammer is used, but the mallet does not knock off your hands so much) to compact the material. You need to hit the caulk until the material begins to spring back. Then move on to the next section.
After compaction, a gap formed. A piece of insulation is again placed in it. If it is tow, you need to roll it into a rope of the required thickness or tear off a piece of the required length from the tape. This piece is also hammered with caulk and a mallet until a springy effect appears. Repeat this operation until the gap is completely filled and move on to the next section.

Everyone knows that the grooves formed between the logs of a log house should be caulked. The essence similar works consists of sealing the cracks remaining between the logs and in the corners of the log house using moss, tow or any other sealing material. The instructions on how to properly caulk a log house indicate that the seal should protrude from the grooves by 3-4 mm on both sides of the wall, which will protect future home from blowing and will reduce heat loss during the frosty period by 5-6%.

The process of caulking (caulking) a log house is as follows:

Evenly distributed fibrous material should be placed across the gap and, using special device(the so-called “caulk”), hammer it into the existing grooves with strong blows. In order for the walls to retain heat better, they need to be caulked both from the inside and from the outside. outside log house
When organizing these works, it should be taken into account that uneven caulking of the walls can cause distortion of the log house. That is why caulking work is carried out immediately along the entire perimeter of the felled structure; in this case, the crowns are processed sequentially, starting with the lowest one.
Caulking of the internal surfaces of the walls begins immediately after finishing the treatment of the external walls.

In construction, two methods of insulating log houses are used, which are called stretch caulking and caulking in a set.

Caulking in a stretch

This method is recommended for caulking small grooves and cracks in the log house. When sealing a gap, a strand of tow is applied to it and pressed inward using a sealing blade (“caulking”) until the entire space in the groove is filled with material. After that upper layer the tow is carefully compacted using a special type-setting “caulk”. Then a dense roller is twisted from tow, which is placed in the groove between the crowns so that it adheres to the fibers protruding from the groove and is driven in with force.

The roller must be captured by adjacent strands hanging from the grooves, because otherwise, it may simply fall out of the groove.

This method of insulating a log house is usually used when it is necessary to seal large cracks and wide grooves. When selling it, small strands are prepared from hemp or tow, which are then collected into a ball to form (set) a loop, which is driven into the grooves as a seal. It is quite natural that the thickness of the assembled loop depends on the size of the existing groove. The resulting layer of tow is compacted first along the upper cut of the crack, and only then along the lower one. All this work is carried out using a special “road caulk”.

Required Tools

It was previously noted that log houses are caulked using special tools, so-called “caulks” made of metal. The main tool for carrying out compaction work is the so-called “caulking machine”, which is a flat spatula with a blade about 100 mm wide and about 5-6 mm thick. In addition to it, the following tool can be used when carrying out work of this class:

curved “caulk” with a blade width of about 50-60 mm and a working part thickness of about 5 mm (used for caulking the corners of a log house);
road caulk with a blade up to 170 mm wide and about 8-15 mm thick with a groove along the length of the blade up to 10 mm deep (used for forming rollers from twisted strands of tow). There are three types of “road builder”, which are used to work with wide, medium and narrow seams;
breaking wedge up to 30-35 mm wide; used for breaking (cutting) too narrow grooves, making it easier to stuff tow into them.

The blade of the tool used must be smooth and slightly dull, otherwise it will simply chop the sealing material. To hammer in tow with metal caulking, you can use any hammer of suitable weight.

The following tips will provide you with additional help in deciding the question of “how to caulk a log house correctly”:

If you use moss as a sealant, you must first moisten it in a special solution prepared from 200 grams of soap and 500 grams of oil dissolved in one bucket of water. Before use, it is advisable to soak tow in any potent disinfectant, which will protect it from pests.

If the roller twisted from fibers is not voluminous and dense enough, it is necessary to add strands to it from stocks of insulating material. The spare strand is hooked onto the ends of the tow hanging from the wall and hammered between the logs.
When driving insulation into the cracks, the crowns can be slightly raised. In this case, the insulation, shaped like a roller, is hammered into the resulting gap using a mallet.

Repeated caulking should be carried out 2 years after the manufacture of the log house, after the latter shrinks and cracks form between the logs again. It is usually performed using the “set” method.

Video

We invite you to watch the process of caulking a log house on video.

Typically, the construction of a building is not the end point of the entire project. In order for the house to last good timing, it is important to follow the rules of care and preventive maintenance. This is especially true for log buildings. One of key points, which you need to know how to caulk a log house.

What, why, when

A bathhouse or house that was built from rounded logs or logs usually shrinks. In some cases, this value can reach 15–20 cm in the first year. This factor must be taken into account when designing. This phenomenon occurs when some of the moisture is lost and drying out occurs. During this process, loose connections of material may appear where previously everything seemed quite tight. To compensate for this unpleasant fact, it will be necessary to seal the seams. Simply put, this is an event that is aimed at sealing cracks to prevent drafts and reduce heat loss. Caulking should be done after complete shrinkage, which occurs within 6–7 months.

The better

In order to carry out the log sealing process as efficiently as possible, you need to acquire not only good tool, but also suitable material, and also have an idea of how to use them correctly. From the devices we will need:

Caulk. This is a small device that appearance resembles a chisel or chisel. Typically, to carry out tasks efficiently, you will need at least two types. One of them is called typesetting. The width of its blade can reach 10 cm. Thanks to it, you can move faster large plots. The second will be smaller, about 2-3 cm. It will be needed during compaction corner connections. Skillful craftsmen They use a curved tool, which allows them to do the work much better, but requires special skill.
Material that will be used to fill the gaps. Previously, only natural fibers were used for these purposes. Today, synthetic materials have already been invented, as well as various sealants.
Hammer. In this case, you can use any one you have on the farm, but it’s better if it’s a small sledgehammer.

Some craftsmen believe that it will be more convenient to work with wooden or rubber mallet, since the blow is soft, the logs are not damaged as a result. Opinions may differ, so everyone chooses the most suitable tool for themselves.

Moss

Red marsh moss is used for these purposes. This is one of the most environmentally friendly methods. It serves as a kind of antiseptic that prevents rotting. It has been used for centuries. This material allows the wood to breathe the best way. You can’t lay it too wet, you need to let it dry a little.

If this is not done, this may lead to the joints beginning to rot and the structure becoming unusable. But it is also not recommended to lay it dry. In this state, it will crumble easily, and subsequently will not be able to seal the seams hermetically. Before driving it, it is necessary to carry out certain processing. A water-based solution (10 l) is prepared, to which 500 ml of oil and 250 g of laundry soap are added. Everything is mixed until the soap is completely dissolved. After this, the moss is soaked and laid to drain a little. To make the roller easier to form, some craftsmen add tow fibers.

Tow

It is also a natural material that is very familiar to plumbers. Due to its fibrous structure, it serves as a good sealant. Some craftsmen are not very fond of this fiber. The fact is that it is quite difficult to work with him. Also, over time, the tow becomes unusable, which will force you to take out its remains and do everything again. Before laying it, it will be necessary to treat it with a special substance that will serve as an antiseptic and also repel insects that can feed on both the fibers themselves and cause harm to the wood.

An excellent material that, like moss, allows the tree to breathe. He is good filter, which does not allow odors to pass through. IN modern material They began to add additional synthetic inclusions, which made it even more durable. The main disadvantage of using this solution is that moths love to feast on felt. It is treated before caulking special compounds which repel this insect.

A modern material that is 100% flax and is a production waste. It is a good seal that does not interfere with air circulation. It has some rigidity, which complicates the caulking process.

One of the most the best materials. It not only perfectly fills cracks, but also protects the inter-crown space from moisture penetration. Birds don't use it to build their nests, so you don't have to worry about them pecking it off. It is made from wood from the linden family. It is usually imported from other countries. The material is soft and flexible.

Jute rope. In addition to its direct purpose, such caulking serves as a decorative finish.

Sealant

This modern method. Many manufacturers have joined this race. The material is supplied in special tubes. It is applied to the joints, after which a beautiful seam is formed.

What to choose is a personal decision for each individual. Everything will depend on the budget, as well as the availability of a particular material in a particular area. But it’s better not to skimp on material.

Technology

The process of sealing inter-crown seams is divided into two types. They are interchangeable and rather complement each other.

Stretch. This type got its name due to the fact that the material stretches along the entire seam and the fibers intertwine with each other. It is usually used for primary caulking. After the construction of the log house, the cracks are still quite small, so there is no point in filling them with a thick layer of insulation and it is useless. The material is arranged in fibers so that they are perpendicular to the logs. Using a tool, it is pushed into the cracks. After this, the ends that are left hanging are tucked into a roller and compacted tightly into the seam.
Included in the set. This method is used after the log house has shrunk and the cracks have become more noticeable. To do this, you will need to collect all the fibers in a heap and make ropes from them, which are then wound into a ball. Moreover, the thickness of such a rope will have to be calculated separately for each seam, because the cracks are not the same everywhere.

After the distribution of roll material, the process of sealing seams was greatly simplified. Primary laying is usually done immediately when laying the logs. To do this, a roll of material is placed on the lunar recess and secured using a construction stapler. Next, the log is placed in its place. There is no need to carry out additional work after complete assembly.

During initial sealing, it is important not to save material, but also not to lay it in a large layer. One strip will not be enough, so two are laid. One should go next to the other, and the edges should protrude a few centimeters. This is very important to give stability to the log and make it easier for yourself when re-processing is carried out.

Secondary compaction, which takes place at least six months later, is not the last. In about 4-5 years, when the building has finally settled down, it will be necessary to treat the seams again. You can follow the following sequence:

We clean the seams from debris and material that has come out or worn out. You can use a vacuum cleaner to make the task easier.
Caulking needs to be done one by one, not one by one. Those. You need to move around the circumference of each row. This is important so that distortion does not occur and the building is not damaged.
You should start from the outside and then move inside the building.
You need to unwind the tape. Its length should be 15–20 cm greater than the length of the wall. This is important, because during the compaction process folds are formed, which will be used for this reserve.
Now it is important to carefully tuck one of the edges of the tape into the gap to secure it.
Next, using a caulk and a hammer, we make a compaction. To do this, we lift the hanging end, tuck it in and tamp it down. This operation must be completed in several passes. You shouldn’t try to hammer everything in at once, as this can lead to misalignment faster and the sealing itself will be worse. When twisted several times, a seam is formed in the form of a rope, which is dense enough to not allow air from the street to pass through.
We repeat the operation from the inside.
We move from the lower (flashing) crown to the upper one. Perhaps in the upper part it will be enough to simply tuck the material in without special effort so as not to interfere with further shrinkage.

You need to be careful not to overdo the layering. During caulking, the frame is raised. If you make the backing too thick, it can cause the lift to exceed the size of one log. The consequence may be that the dowels will not hold up and the beams will fall out.

Insulation with sealant is much easier. To do this, purchase a special lace of a suitable diameter. It is usually made from synthetic materials. It fits effortlessly into the seam to cover the gap. After this, mastic is applied. Its layer should be 5 mm wide and 10 mm high. After application, the composition is sprayed with impregnation, after which it is leveled with a small spatula. In the first few days you will have to curtain the seams on the sunny side, because... usually the manufacturer advises to avoid contact with direct sun rays until completely dry.

The sealant is also used after application natural materials. It helps protect the seal from pests and animals. Inside the house, instead of sealant, you can use twine of sufficient diameter to decorate caulked joints.

Usually, self-sealing a log house does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require great skills. The only thing you need is patience, because it will take a lot of time.

Video

This video shows the process of caulking with acrylic sealants: