DIY water tap. Homemade faucet adapter for hose

Housing and communal services costs increase several times a year, so it is logical to think about opportunities to save energy resources. Use less water possible using simple savers that are placed directly on the tap. Such devices are sold in plumbing stores and online stores; they are produced mainly in China. However, you can make an aerator to save water with your own hands. Let's take a look at how this device works and whether it really helps reduce costs.

How does it work

The saver is a simple device that is a water sprayer. According to the manufacturers, it mixes water with air, which gives higher pressure without additionally opening the tap. There are two types of such devices:

screen with disk;
slotted.

A screen aerator is installed in almost every new faucet; it is nothing more than an ordinary mesh. It consists of a housing into which a brass membrane (also known as a screen) is inserted, followed by a disk with holes and a mounting washer. Such a device is inserted directly into the faucet; it is invisible to the naked eye, as it is hidden inside.

Slot savers are hung on the faucet or mixer itself, so they are not very convenient to use if the distance from the sink to the faucet is small. The structure of the device is also quite simple. A water jet diluter with holes is inserted into the outer casing, then an element for adjusting the jet angle, the base of the aerator and the slotted disk itself.

Additional features

In addition to the fact that the saver allows, according to manufacturers, to reduce water costs by up to 60%, it is also endowed with other abilities. Most often, advertisements claim that the flowing stream is disinfected with ions, filtered, and enriched with valuable properties. However, the nozzle is made of low-grade metal, which is not able to make the water either cleaner or healthier. It also contains plastic particles, healing properties which are also not scientifically proven.

However, the device also has one pleasant nuance: by shifting the slot aerator, you can create a regular stream or a spray one.

The device can be in two positions alternately, so washing dishes or brushing your teeth will be twice as fun. There are also more expensive backlit options. The water will be red or of blue color, depending on whether it is hot or cold. However, this function of the aerator has no effect.

How to do it yourself

You can buy an aerator for approximately 800-1300 rubles. However, its design is quite simple, so making a water saver with your own hands will be quite easy. For this we will need the following materials:

Unscrew the nozzle and remove the brass grille from it. In its place will be installed plastic gasket. If you managed to find just a piece of plastic, you need to carefully cut it out, observing the dimensions of the previous grid, then draw out the mesh and make holes.

After replacing the elements, we reassemble the nozzle and attach it to the tap. Such a device will perform the same functions as a store-bought aerator, but, unlike it, it will actually help save money.

Advantages of self-production

A store-bought aerator is expensive, but its real price is approximately 50-100 rubles, depending on the design. However, manufacturers promise that their know-how pays off in just a couple of months or even one. This is a false statement, which we will now prove.

Attention! All calculations are approximate and may differ from actual figures.

The average cost of an aerator is 1,300 rubles. We take 2 pieces, since we are immediately offered to buy attachments for all the taps in the house, it turns out to be 2,600 rubles. If the price of 1 cubic meter of cold water is 30 rubles, then you need to use as much as 86 cubic meters per month to get the cost of the nozzles. To understand this figure in more detail, let’s convert it into the number of full baths. One standard bath contains approximately 200 liters of water, which makes 430 baths per month, which is 14 baths per day or every half hour per day.

With such simple calculations, it is clear that it will be unrealistic to “recoup” the cost of economizers in one or even two months. Therefore, if you want to save money, you can make your own aerator.

Imaginary benefit

Water dividers in no way help to really save money, since they are not able to change the composition of the water. All the miraculous properties that advertisers have endowed such devices with are conjecture. In addition, it is worth considering that the main water costs of the average family are using the shower and cistern, bathrooms are filled quite rarely. Savers cannot be physically installed on these plumbing elements, so theoretically they are capable of reducing the cost of not all water used, but only that which passes through the nozzles.

To reduce water consumption using a principle similar to aerators, you need to do one simple thing– reduce the pressure in the tap. It has been proven that household tasks such as washing dishes or taking a shower are not negatively affected by this method of reducing water use.

Let's sum it up

The Chinese market offers us water-saving aerators that can be used without special costs time and money to make at home. If you want to test the theory about reducing water use, it is better to make the device yourself. It will clearly show that you can reduce the cost of housing and communal services only through rational consumption.

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After creating a wood heating system, which consists of a stove with two heat exchangers, a heat storage tank and expansion tank, a decision was made to automate the system. You can automate the system using room thermostats and ball valves with electric drives. The price of store-bought faucets with drives is killer - 2-2.5 thousand UAH for 3/4 or 1 inch of faucet. The idea of creating an electric drive for existing ball valves on the system has been floating around in my head for a long time. And so he began to create it, and even tried to modernize it. But so far the modernization has not been successful. I am posting the first working version of the drive for a 1" crane.

The main part of the electric drive is the window lift motor gearbox of the car 1117, 1118, 1119, 2123 left LSA.

Auxiliary parts for the drive, which also need to be purchased, are two 5-pin automotive relays for 12 volts, 2 automotive limit switches, pipe clamps with a diameter of 3/4. A pair of M8x45 bolts and nuts. The rest is small things that will be visible in the photo during the assembly process.

So, let's start manufacturing the housing frame for the drive and the mechanism that transmits rotation to the rod ball valve. The mechanism must have a break so that the crane can be operated manually. The frame is made of 1 mm thick sheet metal. We attach the window lift motor to the frame using homemade bushings made from a 10 mm diameter tube. We attach the frame to the pipe on which the ball valve is installed through bolts and clamps. We get this design

Next, we make parts for the transmission mechanism. By the way, the length of the bolts to the clamps took into account the dimensions of future parts of the transmission mechanism. Details from square pipe 10x10, from 1/2 inch pipe and 4 mm metal strip. A 10 mm washer and a spring of a suitable size were also taken. Made using a grinder, engraver, drill, files and welding!

We put it together and get the design -

The mechanism has a gear that can be removed by pressing on the parts like this -

The mechanism is working. Now you need to install these limit switches with the ability to adjust their position. To do this, we make fastenings for the end switches from plastic.

When trying to turn on the motor with such limit switches, problems arose - the limit switch lost contact, then contact was restored again, there was a spark at the limit switch, and the motor twitched in place. This won’t work. It was decided to install microswitches that click when opened. Mikriki in a word. We purchase mikriki and begin to attach them.
--- added: 11 Ber 2016 at 23:34 ---
3 amp mics and mic mounts are visible in the photo

Also composed electrical diagram connecting parts.

We fasten the mics in place and assemble the drive according to the electrical diagram.

The drive has two output connection blocks - PSU - power supply and T - thermostat (can be a room thermostat, or just a water heating thermostat).
For now, instead of a thermostat, I will use a regular toggle switch that opens or closes a contact, and the drive either closes the tap or opens it.

I mount the drive on an already installed 1" tap

I connect a homemade 12 volt power supply and test it - everything works. And in manual mode too. I'm making a video. The drive closes very quickly - 1 second. This is his flaw. The power is enough to close the tap 1". Watch the video.

I already found a housing for the drive, but did not have time to install it, since I came up with a drive with a different geared motor. To test another motor, I disassembled this drive and used the existing frame. But more on that later. And therefore, for now there is a photo with a nickname with disassembled parts of the drive described above, and on the frame there is another drive.

--- added: 11 Ber 2016 at 23:35 ---
I would like to note that the cost of parts for the drive described above is about 400 UAH! In contrast to ready-made store-bought cranes with drives that cost 2000-2500 UAH, there is a noticeable difference!

I decided to make some distilled water here and, accordingly, I needed to connect the Liebig refrigerator (distiller) to the water supply. I began to think about how to connect the hose to the tap.

Standard solutions in the form of ready-made adapters for a faucet for a hose cost some absolutely unimaginable money (), so I began to think about how to get by with little expense.

In general, the solution turned out to be primitive: the easiest way to connect the hose to the tap is to use an aerator:

The fact is that the thread on the mixer watering can is very specific (diameter 22 mm, pitch 1 mm) and no ready-made plumbing gadgets are suitable for it. Except for the aerator, of course.

We unscrew it and shake out all the insides. We only need the metal shell itself:

By the way, plastic aerators are completely unsuitable due to their fragility and fragility. It needs to be made of metal.

We go to the nearest market, where they sell all kinds of plumbing equipment and buy a fitting there required diameter(for the hose we have) with internal thread 1/2 inch. I bought for 9 mm:

We clamp the fitting into the drill, check that there is no beating when rotating:

We take a grinder with a cutting wheel and separate the excess:

It should look something like this:

Then we change the cutting wheel on the grinder to a flap one:

and carefully sand it down to get a smooth surface:

Then, using the same petal circle, we turn the hexagon into a circle and reduce its diameter until our modernized fitting begins to fit inside the aerator body. This must be done very slowly and carefully, the main thing is not to miss the moment. Periodically we stop and check whether it is included or not:

As soon as the fitting begins to pass freely through the thread and rests against the internal narrowing of the aerator body, then our faucet attachment for the hose is considered ready. All that remains is to find a 1/2" silicone gasket (they are everywhere like dirt).

So, here is the answer to the question of how to connect a hose to a mixer:

Everything is assembled in this order:

I checked it at work: nothing is leaking anywhere, everything is reliable and aesthetically pleasing.

In total, our nozzle is water tap for the hose it cost 45 rubles (brass fitting), 5 rubles for the gasket and about 40 minutes of time, including cleaning the room.

And as a bonus, we will also have a half-inch brass nut left:

I hope my experience was useful to you and you learned another way to connect a hose to a faucet in the kitchen.

By the way, the aerator will not suffer at all after such use. It can be reassembled and screwed into place. It was as if nothing had happened!

Well, if you don’t have the opportunity to grind a fitting, for example, you don’t have a suitable tool, then an adapter for a hose faucet can be made even simpler. How? Watch the video!

That's all. Thank you for your attention!

Making homemade faucets

To create homemade faucets, you need valves, pipe cuttings, fittings, and a shower net. If we compare homemade mixers (Fig. 68, 69) with factory standard ones, then the former, of course, are larger and rougher. The coating on them is colorful. If the pipes are galvanized, then no anti-corrosion layer is needed at all. Such homemade faucets are not suitable for comfortable bathrooms.

Rice. 68. Homemade mixer for shower with fixed shower tube and mesh:

1 - pipe; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4 - tee; 5 - shower net; 6 - shower tube

Rice. 69. Homemade bath and shower faucet with stationary shower tube and spout:

1 - shower tube; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4-cross; 5 - spout

Rice. 70. Homemade shower nets:

A- by type of diffuser garden watering can: 1 - clamp; 2 - shower tube; 3 - diffuser tube; 4 - diffuser mesh; 5 - cone; 6 - nut; 7 - washer; 8 - bolt; 9 - rubber strip

b- from cans tin cans or one can: 1 - shower tube; 2 - lock nut; 3 - washer; 4 - rubber gasket; 5 - jar without bottom; 6 - holey bottom

V- from the sawing part of the factory flexible hose: 1 - shower tube; 2 - coupling; 3 - pipe.

However, when they are sometimes installed in the kitchen or bathroom with a centralized supply of hot and cold water, the question arises, why add another couple of valves if at the entrance to an apartment or individual house there is already a valve for each “type” of water. Alas, it is impossible without valves, which form the simplest mixer (Fig. 68). Their absence will cause the so-called “pumping”: hot water will flow into cold water. Neighboring apartments, nearest small houses will get lukewarm water instead of hot.

In a complicated mixer (Fig. 69), the bottom valve that releases water into the bath or sink can be completely replaced with a tap (Fig. 73).

However, an intermediate piece is needed - a square, into which we will screw the tap (Fig. 74).

Special attention You should pay attention to the difference between a tap and a valve (Fig. 75).

The tap has only one external thread for connection through a coupling or elbow to the pipe. The valve body has two internal threads for screwing in pipes. When one pipe is screwed in, the functions of the tap and valve are the same. But only the tap turns the stream of water, and only the valve is placed between two pipes.

The numbers and arrow are cast on each valve body. The number 20, for example, means the diameter of the free space that remains for the passage of water after screwing the pipe into the body.

The arrow on the body must necessarily “look” in the direction of water movement. If the valve is mounted on pipes contrary to the direction of the arrow, then large hydraulic resistance occurs. They are very annoying, reducing water pressure. This is very noticeable upper floors houses during peak water withdrawals, and at garden plot- during watering, etc.

However, sometimes they “forget” to cast an arrow on the valve body. What to do? They look into the ends of the valve body, where the pipes will be screwed in later. Water should enter through the pipe into the end where the valve, rubber gasket and nut are not visible. To make these details more visible, the rod is screwed in or out slightly using the flywheel.

The garden watering can dissipator is suitable as a shower net in the mixer. The absence of a garden watering can is not a problem. The diffuser is made of large tin tin cans. Its parts (Fig. 70a) are connected with a special seam, called a “lying seam” in roofing. The seam is soldered or painted oil paint, which prevents leaks and provides sufficient pressure in numerous holes.

Streams of water from the seam, shooting like a fountain into the ceiling under strong water pressure, will also not cause delight in any shower owner.

Two or three cuts on the diffuser tube before rolling are made on the side that is not soldered. It is preferable to make cuts using roofing scissors or, in extreme cases, large tailor's scissors. Using other types of scissors will cause them to become dull. A chisel perfectly cuts through tin on a board, but this is too labor-intensive technology for producing a diffuser.

The end of the shower tube is wrapped with a strip of thin rubber. The disintegrator tube is inserted with cuts onto the prepared end of the shower tube. The clamp tightens the cuts, securing the diffuser to the shower tube. Water pressure will no longer tear off the diffuser.

Two tin cans are also the “starting product” for a shower net (Fig. 70b). Although a shower net made from one can has a more attractive appearance: the soldering is less noticeable.

The design of the shower net begins with cutting out the lid when opening the can. A hole in the center of the lid is cut so that the end of the shower tube fits into it with some difficulty. This hole is not easy to cut. Numerous holes along the intended contour, punched with a nail, a screwdriver with a metal handle or a chisel, will speed up the work. It is clear that the bridges between the nail holes are removed with a chisel or a screwdriver blade.

Use washers, gaskets and locknuts to secure the cap to the end of the shower tube. Holes forming a grid are punched in the bottom of the remaining tin can with walls or in a second tin can. Operations to “organize” the grid will be easier if you place a tin can on a log. Then they hammer and nail outer side bottom.

The disadvantage of the tin can shower screen design is that to connect its parts you need to unscrew the shower tube from the faucet. Why not do soldering on weight and at height?!

There is no need to “invent” the shower net if you have parts from a flexible hose from a long-standing factory production (Fig. 70c) plus a pipe and union nut from a standard mixer. It is important that the threads of the pipe and the coupling match, and that the union nut is screwed onto the corresponding thread of the special nut. If this does not happen, then either look for a pipe and a union nut with “related” threads, or grind them to lathe parts with the required thread.

Figure 71 shows one of the simplest domestic mixers that were produced in past years. The “meeting” and mixing of cold and hot water occurs in a brass, chrome-plated tube. The mixture flows through the soldered nipple. The ends of the mixer through rubber tubes quickly come into contact with taps of various shapes, pouring liquids, etc. It is convenient to install such a mixer, say, between a tap on a pipe with hot water flow-through gas water heater and a tap on the cold water pipe.

This faucet, suspended above the washbasin, does not require any additions. But above the sink, a suitable rubber tube is pulled over his nipple, which is moved as needed. When the sink is two-chamber, you simply cannot do without such an additional rubber tube, because the nipple is stationary. The designers provided for this. There are sinks with a mixer and a brush mounted on the shelves. flexible hose. Hot water flows through the hose into the brush. A similar hose with a shower net and holder is included in the kit of the described mixer (Fig. 71). This hose is especially useful when the mixer is above a bathtub, tray, etc.

Due to its simplicity of design, the mixer has disadvantages. To prevent cracks from occurring on the thin-walled hose, it is replaced with a “rubber pressure hose with thread reinforcement...” or a “rubber hose for gas welding and metal cutting."

Rice. 71. The simplest factory mixer for universal use:

1 - edge; 2 - rubber tube; 3 - mixer; 4 - plastic special nut; 5 - rubber washer; 6 - body; 7- mesh; 8 - crown; 9 - skeleton; 10 - hose; 11 - metal special nut; 12 - nipple

To prevent rubber tubes from jumping off the ends of the mixer when it is under water pressure, they are tightened with clamps or tied with thin copper wire or strong threads. It is not difficult to make a similar mixer. You can replace the brass tube with a rubber tube with a hole in the middle. True, it will be more difficult to “cement” a shower tube or hose.

The factory holder is cleverly created. The rubber washer is inserted into a plastic housing with an internal thread. This washer is secured by a plastic special nut, which has a hexagon in the center for screwing in and out (Fig. 71, item 4). The holder is fixed to the faucet nipple thanks to a hole in a rubber washer 5–8 mm thick. The diameter of the hole in the washer is two millimeters smaller than the outer diameter of the nipple. The main advantage of the holder is the speed of removing and putting on, and in general connecting the hose.

The holder is turned independently on a lathe. The internal hexagon on the nut is not needed. It can be completely replaced by a protrusion with two flats for a regular wrench (Fig. 71, item 11). The option without a holder is also quite possible. It will be replaced by a tubular tee, soldered from metal tubes or welded from plastic ones. The diameters of the tee tubes are selected according to the existing rubber tubes.

Water taps

Tabletop Faucet Repair

Water-folding tabletop taps (GOST 20275-74) include the KTN15 ZhD toilet tabletop tap with a rigidly fixed spout (Fig. 72a). The lower part of the body pipe has four protrusions evenly spaced around the circumference just above the threads. These protrusions secure the faucet from turning in the quadrangular hole of the sink or washbasin.

Rice. 72. Tabletop toilet taps:

A-KTN15ZhD; b- KVN15D;

1 - sweep; 2 - lock nut; 3 - seal; 4 - short coupling; 5 - barrel; 6 - long coupling; 7 - metal washer; 8 - nut; 9 - rubber washer; 10 - washbasin shelf; 11 - valve body; 12 - valve head; 13 - spout; 14 - union nut; 15 - plastic ring; 16 - rubber ring

Sinks are not applicable here, because they do not have a shelf for installing a faucet.

The gap between the rectangular hole in the shelf and the faucet body is not easy to close. If this is not done, water will flow down the supply pipe when using the tap. The trouble will not only be the appearance of rust on the pipeline and puddles on the floor.

A wet pipeline will arouse suspicion in an inexperienced owner. Having blocked the access of water to the pipeline, some begin to unscrew it.

This is a flawed technology for finding the root cause of a water leak. Two rubber washers 9, included in the faucet kit, when installing the latter, install it so as to eliminate gaps between the faucet body and the rectangular hole of the shelf 10 . If standard washers after tightening the locknut 2 will not close the gaps, then washers should be cut from a sheet of rubber required thickness and elasticity.

Gaps occur during operation of the crane for several reasons: drying out of the rubber, shifting of the pipeline, weak initial tightening of the lock nut. Using putty or plasticine on dry surfaces is the fastest way to close gaps. Cement is also suitable. After drying, it is coated with oil paint.

The shelf itself rarely occupies a horizontal position. Here we are talking about one shelf without a washbasin, because the latter may have some defects. The roller along the edges of the shelf should not allow water to pass under the washbasin. Otherwise, you can use window putty to coat the gap between the vertical rear side of the shelf and the wall to which the washbasin adjoins.

Water gets onto the washbasin shelf in different ways: splashes, leaks from under the oil seal sleeve and, finally, streams from under the spout union nut on taps of other modifications. The cause of the leak is determined after wiping the tap dry and opening the valve head by the handwheel.

Tightening the oil seal bushing usually eliminates the leakage from underneath it. Worn rubber rings 16 spout 13 are replaced. If there are no new rubber rings, strands of thread seal are wound around the old ones. 17 , tighten the union nut 14 . After such repairs, the spout cannot be turned, as the seal will be broken.

Foreign-made ceramic washbasins often have no holes or holes in the shelves. Therefore, a faucet or tabletop tap cannot be inserted into the shelf. Exit: use a wall-mounted mixer or tap. But you can very carefully punch the desired hole in the shelf. To do this, turn the washbasin over and place it on a flat surface so that it does not wobble. Hole shape on back side shelves are planned. Using a sharp narrow chisel, first carefully knock down thin layer glaze. Then a recess is gradually made. You can also drill holes with a carbide drill using an electric drill. It is clear that the second and third holes need to be drilled even more carefully than the first.

Holes weaken the strength of the shelf. Before you begin such work, try doing it on a piece of earthenware, on a broken broken washbasin, on a worn-out cistern body, etc. Even experienced plumbers sometimes end up with a large hole with very uneven edges. Earthenware comes in different hardness and ductility. The gaskets and washers included with the faucet will not block such a hole. Therefore, it is advisable to cut out plates with holes from a sheet of aluminum or corrosion-resistant steel and, accordingly, rubber gaskets for them (one plate and one gasket on each side of the shelf). The hole will be completely blocked when the plates and gaskets are tightened with the lock nut located on the valve body.

Installing or replacing the housing 11 tap installation is usually done with the washbasin removed from the brackets. To do this, the connector of the supply pipe must be located below the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Otherwise, the angle of rotation of the lever or wrench will be limited by the vertical wall of the device and the wall of the room.

A connector is used for the connector 1 , that is, a short piece of pipe with an internal diameter of 15 mm and a length of 110 mm. Both ends of the outlet have a GI/2 thread. On one side the thread length is longer. The coupling is screwed completely onto it 4 and locknut 2 .

There are several more modifications of tabletop faucets: the KTN10D has a supply pipe with a diameter of 3/8" screwed directly into the body; the KVN15D and KTN15D are equipped with a swivel spout, like the KT15D toilet wall-mounted faucet.

It is attached to the body with a union nut. Sealing is ensured by a rubber ring between the spout and the neck of the body. The ring partially fits into a circular groove located at the bottom of the spout. The second groove is located higher. It includes a plastic expansion ring 15 protecting the spout from jumping out of the union nut 14 with high water pressure. If the plastic ring breaks, it can be made from copper wire. They sell rubber rings. You can cut similar ones from a suitable rubber tube.

Taps KVN15D and KTN15AD have aerators on the outlet part of the spout. They are periodically clogged with foreign particles contained in the water. The stream weakens completely. Then unscrew the outer ring of the aerator. Take out the mesh. Blow and rinse it in the direction reverse movement streams in the spout.

Wall tap repair

These include brass fittings KV15 (Fig. 73) and KV20, installed through coupling 2 on pipes with a nominal internal diameter of 15 or 20 mm, that is, on pipes of 1/2" and 3/4". The KV15SD crane has a jet straightener and a protective and decorative coating. It is twice as expensive as the KV15 faucet, and the KV15AD faucet has an aerator and a protective and decorative coating.

Fig. 73. Wall-mounted water tap KV15:

1 - pipe; 2 - coupling; 3 - seal; 4 - back of the sink; 5 - valve body; 6 - gasket; 7 - tap head

Cranes can be placed anywhere. They are especially convenient in the garden or personal plot. If there is no plug or plug, you can also use a tap.

PC-type sinks are produced especially for these taps: PC-1 - with one hole in the back, PC-2 - with two holes. In general, the sink kit includes a backrest and the sink itself with a welded outlet. The kit often does not include screws with galvanized heads for securing the backrest to the wall. Galvanized screws are rare. Use regular screws, but before installing, coat the heads with white oil paint and let them dry.

A cast iron inspection siphon is necessary for this type of sink, because a plastic bottle siphon cannot be used here. PC sinks do not have big hole in the bottom to install the release of a plastic siphon. A metal outlet welded to the bottom of the sink is inserted directly into the water seal of the cast iron inspection siphon. There remains a gap between them, through which, if clogged, sewer pipe water may flow. Therefore, screw a strand of seal onto the metal sink outlet before lowering it into the siphon water seal. Be sure to soak this strand with resin or oil paint, which will protect the seal from rotting.

After tightly connecting the outlet and siphon, cover the joint with cement. To prevent the cement from crumbling, wrap it wet in a strip of gauze or bandage and coat it with liquid cement on top. This will ensure the tightness of the joint for many years.

Sinks PSV-1 and RSV-2 differ from sinks PC in that they are equipped with plastic bottle siphons. The use of wall-mounted taps with washbasins and sinks is not practical. The fact is that the closer the faucet “spout” is to the outlet, the less splashing.

The sink outlet is located at a distance of 150 mm from the wall, and the faucet spout is located at a distance of 90-105 mm. In washbasins and sinks, the outlets are located from the wall at a distance of 180–255 mm. To reduce splashing, place the tap closer to the bottom of the washbasin or sink. You can also put a rubber tube on the spout of the faucet.

Some people extend the supply pipe along with the tap closer to the outlet. Then, to do this, use a galvanized pipe, which will slightly brighten up the visible difference between the chrome-plated faucet and the outer color of the pipe.

The KT15D toilet wall tap (Fig. 74) has undergone a number of changes. In the past, the spout was screwed directly into the body, that is, the spout had one stationary position. When you try to turn the spout from threaded connection the body began to drip. The spout had to be turned out, the threads of the seal screwed onto the threads, and it was difficult to screw it back into the body again.

Rice. 74. Wall mounted toilet faucet KT15D:

1 - pipe; 2 - coupling; 3, 6 - seal; 4 - pipe; 5 - valve body; 7 - valve head; 8 - rubber ring; 9 - expanding plastic ring; 10 - union nut; 11 - spout

Now the spout is secured to the faucet body with a union nut 10 . Thanks to the rubber seal ring 8 and expansion plastic ring 9 The spout can be turned. The rubber ring prevents leakage along the spout, and the expansion ring prevents the spout from falling out from under the union nut. The plastic release ring sometimes breaks. Replace it with a ring of copper wire, which you can anneal to “soften” it. When it wears out, wrap threads under the rubber ring, for example, or buy a new one at the Plumbing store. You can cut the required rings yourself from a suitable rubber tube, but in terms of quality and durability they will be worse than branded ones.

Water supply pipe 1 with an internal diameter of 15 mm (1/2") connected to the valve body 5 (Kr67e) through the coupling 2 . The pipe is first screwed into the body 4 . In order not to damage the thread, a cut is made on the protruding part of the pipe while the pipe is not cut off from the pipe. After separating the pipe, the burrs are cleaned off, the seal is screwed in and screwed into the valve body using a steel plate. Instead of a plate, you can use the handle of a fixed lever of a pipe wrench old design with a handle made of multi-millimeter steel plate.

In the KT15D tap, the connection between the body and the supply pipe is simplified. The pipe and the body are combined, and only a coupling is needed for joining.

From the book Plumbing: choose and connect yourself author Alekseev Viktor Sergeevich

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Making a locomobile Before you start making a locomobile, read the description carefully and understand the drawings. When you clearly understand the design of the model and the process of its manufacture, select the material, tools and get to work. Construction

From the book Great Encyclopedia of Fishing. Volume 1 author Shaganov Anton

2.1.1. Clothes repair and manufacturing Clothes care. Clothes must be shaken out and ventilated and dried in the sun every day, and torn areas must be repaired in a timely manner. Torn clothes can be sewn up using scrap materials or sealed using

From the book Great Encyclopedia of Fishing. Volume 2 author Shaganov Anton

Clothes repair and manufacturing Clothes care. Clothes must be shaken out, ventilated and dried daily, and repaired in a timely manner. Torn clothing can be sewn up or sealed using resin as glue. coniferous trees. Torn for repair

From the author's book

Design and manufacture All tops can be divided according to their design into non-removable, usually used for fishing near the house, and folding, more convenient for transportation to a reservoir. In Fig. 17.2 shows a classic non-separable top: conical

From the author's book

Design and manufacture The hemstone frame in the old days was made exclusively from round or round wooden hoops oval shape. Nowadays plastic or metal hoops(they are also frame rings, they are also katels, inconsistency

Modern industry produces many different taps and valves to regulate the flow of liquid. There is a suitable one for every application. However, the inquisitive minds of home craftsmen do not give up attempts to develop and implement own designs. Sometimes this is caused by a desire to save money, but more often by a desire to check own strength as a designer, mechanical engineer, mechanic and electrical engineer.

Types of cranes

Trying to replicate the design of a conventional shut-off valve makes no practical or economic sense unless the home workshop is equipped with high-precision milling, turning and drilling machines. The price of industrial designs for mass production is affordable even for the most modest budget. Another thing is technically complex shut-off valves for special applications, such as:

ball with electric drive;
needle;
non-freezing;
with instantaneous water heater;

Options for doing it yourself will be discussed below.

Ball with electric drive,

The motorized valve can find its application in modern “smart” water supply, heating and air conditioning systems created by home DIYers with minimal use of purchased components. In addition to testing your strength, there will also be a significant monetary benefit - a purchased device with an electric drive costs from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

For a do-it-yourself ball valve with an installed electric drive, you will need following materials and components:

ball valve 3/4″;

Figure 1: 3/4 valve

window lift drive for Lada 1117, 2123 left LSA;

Figure 2: Power window

five-pin automobile relays – 2 pcs.;
limit microswitches - 2 pcs.;
sheet metal 1 mm thick (for the frame and clamps);
steel tube 10 mm - trimmings (for bushings);
square profile 10*10 mm - 10 cm;
metal strip 4 mm thick - 10*1 cm;
spring with a diameter of 12 mm;
M8*45 bolt with nut and washers - 2 pcs.

All electrical equipment is 12 volt. Tools needed:

drill;
metal scissors;
workbench with a vice;
welding machine;
manual locksmith tool(hammer, screwdriver, spanners, pliers, etc.)

The mechanism being created should allow the electric crane to be controlled both using a drive and manually. The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

Bend a U-shaped frame from a sheet of metal.
Make bushings from pieces of tube for attaching the window lift drive to the frame.
Secure the drive.
Secure the frame to the pipes coming out of the ball valve using clamps.
From square profile cut the attachment onto the gearbox axle.
Weld a strip to it.
Assemble the lever mechanism of the drive from the strip and the handle, spring-loading it. The spring presses the levers together; if necessary, they can be quickly separated without the use of tools and the crane can be operated manually.
The strip is hinged to the handle using a bolt and nut. Lock the nut.
Attach the square profile to the window regulator shaft.

Next, you should test the kinematics by applying voltage to the electric motor. You can use a car battery or a power supply with a power of at least 50 W. The lever transmission should move smoothly, without jerking or distortion. If necessary, correct parts touching each other with a file.

Now comes the turn of the electrical part of the drive.

Mount limit microswitches in the extreme positions of the handle.
They should be connected in such a way that they open the control circuit of the relay through which the engine is turned on when the extreme position “Open” or “Closed” is reached.

Such a drive can be connected to the control circuits of the system " smart home" A do-it-yourself electric water faucet will be cost-effective if the window lift drive is inexpensive. A new one costs up to 1 thousand rubles, and can eat up half the savings.

Instead of a window lifter drive, you can use any other electric drive,

Figure 3: Motorized crane

similar in power and torque.

Needle

A needle valve with a large adjustment range can be assembled from scrap materials at low cost. To make it you will need:

Plastic disposable syringe 2 ml.
Insulin syringe 1 ml.
Bearing ball – 2 pcs.
Springs - 2 pcs.
Nut and adjusting screw.
Epoxy adhesive.
Fasteners
Plastic ties - 2 pcs.

Figure 4: Valve diagram

The diagram shows:

Syringes - black.
Balls are blue.
Springs - green.
The stock is red.
The direction of fluid movement is indicated by green arrows.

To make a faucet, you should:

Select the balls by diameter. The big one should be a little smaller internal size 2 ml syringe, small - 2 times smaller.
Select springs according to force. The compression force of a large spring is approximately twice that of a small one.
Drill a hole in a large syringe near the spout equal to the inner diameter of the insulin one. Pull the insulin syringe by the ears with ties, wrap it with synthetic threads and glue it.
Insert a small ball and a smaller spring into a large syringe.
Cut off the piston rod.
Insert the large spring and the second ball.
Insert the adjusting screw.
Tighten the nut with screws to the ears.

Figure 5: Finished design

The incoming liquid will tend to press the ball away from the inlet hole, the spring will press it back the more strongly, the tighter the adjusting screw is tightened. If the screw is completely turned out, the flow will flow freely, if it is completely tightened, the flow will be blocked.

Anti-freeze faucet

For those who need to use running water on a site in winter time, are faced with the problem of a frozen street tap. At large differences temperature, the water inside the fittings and pipes turns into ice and can break them.

There are several ways to organize such water supply:

Installation of a purchased anti-freeze tap. It has a valve disc inside warm circuit walls It is always installed with a slope towards the street. Then, after closing the valve, the remaining water in the pipe flows down and does not freeze in the pipe. Devices are released different lengths, which allows you to install it in walls of different thicknesses.

Figure 6: Anti-freeze valve

A homemade version of such a device is a regular poppet valve mounted on a supply inside a warm wall contour. Its rod is extended by a rod passing through the wall in a tube. A handle is attached to the outside of the rod. The pipe must also be installed with a slope towards the street. This method requires an extra hole in the wall, but is several times cheaper. Of course, you will have to periodically chip off the ice that forms under the spout.

Figure 7: Homemade Anti-Freeze Valve

A faucet installed on an underground insulated water supply system. In this case, it is necessary to have a drainage into which the water remaining after closing the tap in the vertical pipe will be drained. The design uses it installed in an insulated pit.

Figure 8: Three-way valve

The valve is controlled from the street via a stem extension. In the operating position, it turns on the water supply to the vertical pipe, at the end of which the spout is mounted. As soon as water is drawn, the tap is closed, the supply stops, and the remaining water in the pipe is drained through the third hole of the tap into the drain.

Sensory

Full touch tap home handyman It’s unlikely to be possible to make. the main problem will be in placement and waterproofing infrared sensor approaching. Enough interesting design, allowing you to turn the water on and off with busy hands, can be collected using

Solenoid valve from washing machine for 220 v - 2 pcs.
Fitting 10mm*1/2 external thread - 2 pcs.
Fittings from ¾ to ½ internal. thread - 2 pcs.
Bell button for surface mounting.
Wires.

The installation and configuration procedure is as follows:

The valves are installed at the break in the hot and cold water line, directly in front of the mixer.
Their drive is connected via a foot switch.
During presetting with open solenoid valves you need to set the required temperature and intensity of water flow and leave the mixer tap in this position.
If you need to turn on the water, just press the bell button - the valves will work and water will flow from the tap.

When water is no longer needed, simply release the key and the springs will return the valve to the closed state. Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing wires and connections.

Instantaneous water heater for tap

Purchased instantaneous electric water heaters have a compact design and are equipped with a temperature control system, spout and aerator. It is unlikely that you will be able to make such a faucet attachment with your own hands in a home workshop. The main problem is the accuracy of processing parts and ensuring the electrical safety of the device. However, homemade people have developed a simple and completely efficient design, allowing you to do without complex and expensive components. It works by heating a coil heat exchanger on a gas or electric burner. For production, average metalworking skills are sufficient.

Materials and tools you will need:

Copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm - 1 meter
Rubber or plastic hoses, heat-resistant - 2 distances from the burner to the sink +1 m
2 fittings with internal diameter½ hoses
Adapter from tap for Eurocube
4 clamps
Threaded arms and nuts for them - 2 pcs.
Construction knife, screwdriver, gas wrench

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Wind a spiral from the tube according to the shape of the burner. Taper the spiral to make maximum use of the heat from the burner. The straight sections of the inlet and outlet pipes should extend beyond the slab panel by 20-30 cm.
Attach the spiral to the stove grate. Place the hoses onto the pipes and secure them with clamps.
Connect one fitting to the cold water supply (pipe or canister tap), the other to the mixer.
Place the free ends of the hoses onto the fittings and also secure with clamps. Cold water should go to the bottom pipe of the spiral.

Figure 9: Homemade instantaneous water heater

When operating such a heater, it should not be left unattended for a minute.