If a person lives in a small apartment, lack of space becomes a serious problem. The folding bed literally disappears in just a few seconds! By making a wardrobe bed with your own hands, you can solve the issue related to the shortage square meters: expand the children's room, freeing it up for games, turn the guest room into a home office, the living room into a mini-hotel, taking into account the frequent visits of relatives, and the bedroom can become a gym.
About serious and funny
So what's so exciting about the "invisible" bed design? Is this really a bed? Or is it a closet? A huge mattress can be neatly hidden, is it really easy to do? Yes! And the transformer was not invented yesterday, but at least a century ago. According to legend, the inventor of the device, William L. Murphy, lived in one-room apartment in San Francisco. The moral code of those times did not approve of women who dare to enter a man’s bedroom, so the savvy guy turned the bed into a closet and his room into a living room, not forgetting to obtain a patent for the invention in 1900. However, at this very moment, Thomas Jefferson already had his beds hanging on ropes and hooks in the bedroom alcoves. Murphy is said to have married the very girl who inspired him to transform the apartment.
Changing your living space today is seen as a lifestyle choice, and a folding transforming bed solves multi-tasks. Modern versions of various models can have glass, mirrors and beautiful lighting, as well as shelves for computers, TVs and stereo systems. Some apartment owners decorate the walls above the bed with expensive artwork.
A combination of elegance and ergonomics
A convertible folding bed can last up to 60 years! Since the first model, many designs have been created: the bed can be folded horizontally and vertically, be two-tiered and have additional functions. For example, beds with tables and models with sofas are popular.
Vertical option beds are considered traditional. A horizontal bed is well suited for narrow rooms and rooms with low ceilings, for example, it can be installed in the attic.
After installing the bed-wardrobe, the room turns into:
- bedroom-office;
- bedroom-living room;
- children's bedroom.
When deciding to make an “invisible” bed, you should take a closer look at interesting ideas:
- The transformer can be supplemented with convenient bookshelves.
- The horizontally positioned folding bed is easily attached to a low modular furniture.
- It’s quite an interesting solution when the room is made in Japanese minimalist style and the built-in bed looks like “shoji” walls.
- A transformer in a teenager's room can become part of a cozy corner cabinet.
- In a children's room, it is sometimes convenient to make a two-tier wardrobe bed.
- A transformer can have an unusual look if you make the decor yourself. The retro space is adorable!
- A bed-wardrobe can appear in an apartment made in any style. For example, with the appropriate design and decor, it will look good in the sophisticated French atmosphere of Provence. Gray sliding doors will add the necessary textural contrast.
What do you need to know?
The transformer, which the simplest drawings give an idea of, consists of 4 key components:
- lifting mechanism;
- heavy-duty magnetic clasp that prevents the bed from falling out;
- bed frames;
- closet
Any modern mechanism, designed for the wardrobe bed, allows for easy folding.
The lifting system can be:
Spring mechanism. It typically consists of heavy-duty compressed steel springs in the bed frame that make lifting and lowering easy. But after several years of intensive use, the springs need adjustment.
Piston mechanism. Unlike a spring device, pistons are safer, last much longer and break less.
Each mechanism is designed for a certain weight. A pair of metal springs or a piston lift make it easy and safe to place the bed box into the frame. A secure latch will keep furniture in place. closed position.
It is important to remember that the mechanism is the most important thing in creating a modern Murphy bed. Installation of equipment will probably be the most time-consuming part of the work. Only correct installation According to the instructions, it guarantees reliable folding. If the mechanism for the bed-wardrobe is purchased in stores furniture fittings, an installation diagram that is easy to understand will definitely be included with the kit.
A person who has ever built a cabinet or similar large-scale piece of furniture with their own hands probably has all the skills to integrate a transformer into a wall.
The manufacturing process of the piece of furniture itself includes:
- creating a cabinet that looks like a frame;
- bed box to which the legs are attached.
Beds that are hidden in the closet do not have heavy spring mattress structures. Typically, an orthopedic or regular mattress rests on a wooden platform, wire mesh or slats and is secured with elastic straps that hold it in place while the unit is folded vertically.
How to make calculations?
To create a bed, the most attractive option is to use a combination of high-grade plywood and solid wood. As mentioned, bookshelves can be added to the sides of the cabinet designed to hide the bed, and halogen lighting can be built into the top of the frame. The face of a structure can look as simple as a sheet of plywood or be as complex as a piece of antique furniture.
The height of the legs, sides and the height of the part of the mattress protruding above the sides - total height sleeping place, on which the depth of the cabinet structure depends. Typically it is approximately 450 mm ( standard height chair) - sit comfortably.
Taking into account the thickness of the lifting mechanism, simple calculations can be made. If the mechanism has a thickness of 32 mm, then the gaps between the sides of the bed and the sides of the cabinet will be 32 mm on each side. Accordingly, the calculation takes into account the width of the bed, the thickness of the sides of the base, the gaps for installing the mechanism and the thickness of the sides of the cabinet.
The height of the closet depends on the length or width of the bed.
Work order
The biggest obstacle for many people is finding a place to do carpentry work. Therefore, it is worth considering assembling it in a garage or renting a special room for a while.
To make a transformer, you need to prepare the following tools for work:
- centimeter tape measure;
- building level, square;
- electric drill;
- screwdriver;
- jigsaw;
- grinding machine;
- keys (hex);
- Screwdriver Set.
In addition, you will need quality materials. Based on the sizes, you need to make a list of them.
A mattress, regular or orthopedic, should be purchased immediately to check the dimensions of the bed frame and cabinet. Pillows are typically stored in a closet or chest of drawers rather than on the mattress when it is hidden.
- Bed frame assembly
The frame consists of 4 boards of the same height, which will serve as the sides of the bed. It is important to create an even rectangle with 90° corners. The frames are connected using wooden pins coated with glue. After the glue has dried, self-tapping screws and furniture corners are used to finally fasten the sides together. You can nail a rail with a cross-section of 100x50 mm around the perimeter; it will serve as a limiter for the mattress.
The base can be made from whole piece plywood or, for example, it can be knocked down from planks. There are many options. Important! Sometimes additional stiffeners may be needed. At this stage you can make decoration.
- Assembling the cabinet frame
The cabinet frame parts are fastened using the same principle as the bed frame parts.
When the bed is folded back, the wardrobe may simply fall to the floor. To avoid this, you need to attach it to load-bearing wall using metal corners. The fasteners are placed as high as possible on the sides. If the folding bed is hidden in the structure furniture wall, then the weight of the wall will be a good insurance policy; if the cabinet is located “across the board” between the ceiling and the floors, theoretically it will not be able to fall.
- Bed legs
You can make the legs yourself by ensuring they are built in using furniture hinges, or can be purchased together with the mechanism.
- Installation of mechanisms
The spring or piston mechanism is installed according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Transformable bed models are suitable for small rooms. The products are ergonomic, compact, stylish and combine several functional items. During the day, the transformer acts as a table or work area, and in the evening it becomes a quality place to relax. Furniture is produced in various sizes, shapes, price categories. If necessary, you can make a transformable bed with your own hands. 
Similar articles:
Types of beds
Transformable products differ in design options and the number of pieces of furniture combined in the product. There are models that connect a sleeping place and a wardrobe, a seating area and a work area, a bed and a spacious sofa, etc. Built-in structures, folding and folding, have been developed.
The bed, combined with a wardrobe, is pressed against the wall by a lifting mechanism and serves as a rack. The product is practical and can be used in small apartments Oh.
The wardrobe-bed is combined with a sofa. This model of furniture is optimal for living rooms, as it can be modernized into a relaxation area. When disassembled, the sofa is an additional support for the bed, increasing the load-bearing capacity.
Beds combined with work area, are used when decorating children's rooms, since the furniture is equipped with drawers, shelves and a comfortable bed. Sockets and lighting are added to the design efficient operation space.
The sofa bed can be standard or transformable into a two-tier structure, equipped with a spacious compartment for bedding. The built-in double transformable bed can be combined with a table. The model is used in the design of teenage and children's spaces.
The hidden designs are original and ergonomic. Sleeping space in such models it is hidden on the other side of the cabinet. Furniture supplied rotating mechanism, allowing you to move the module.
A bed model of original transformation has been developed and is gaining popularity, which allows you to raise the sleeping bed, attach and disguise it near the ceiling. The design helps free up a large area of the room and becomes invisible during the daytime.
Transformable furniture is multifunctional due to built-in cabinets, mezzanines, shelves, etc. Additional functions are selected depending on the interior design and the requests of the residents.
The structures are divided into transformers with a horizontal or vertical mechanism. The choice of system is influenced by the dimensions and design style of the room. Products that rise vertically are the most frequently purchased and functional. Horizontal transformers are suitable narrow rooms with low ceilings.
Tools and materials
Before you start creating a transformer for a small apartment or larger premises, it is recommended to purchase working materials and tools. The structures require wood panels: furniture panels, chipboards, LDS, etc. Materials are purchased after drawing up the diagrams, 10% is added to the indicator.
Furniture panels are produced by pressing boards and bars without the addition of synthetic compounds. The material is environmentally friendly, durable, easy to use, but has high price. More budget and affordable - wood- particle boards(chipboard, laminated chipboard). Boards are released various colors, thickness and density. The strength index of the composition is less than that of furniture panels. The preferred thickness is about 20 mm.
When making a transforming bed you will need a kit special tools: drill, screwdriver, jigsaw, hammer drill, grinding machine, centimeter tape, building level, square. Pliers, a file, a hacksaw, a set of screwdrivers, etc. will also come in handy.
The design will require accessories: a folding mechanism, confirmations, self-tapping screws and self-tapping screws different sizes, furniture corners - standard and reinforced, anchor fasteners, handles, elements of decoration of the facade.
DIY wardrobe bed
Simple and accessible for self-execution model combining a wardrobe and a sleeping bed. The product consists of 3 parts, which are created separately and then combined into a folding structure. Before making a transforming bed with your own hands, you need to calculate the dimensions of the model and draw up a drawing with marked locations for fasteners. You can use ready-made diagrams or make a plan yourself, designing every detail.
The dimensions and shape of the bed base body depend on the required functionality and the size of the room. An important part of the transformer is a spacious niche for sleeping. At self-production For the frame of a wardrobe-bed, slabs (laminated or standard) are often chosen, since the material is unpretentious in processing and is affordable. You can order cutting of chipboard parts according to the required parameters from the manufacturer, in which case the edges of the elements will be processed with edging tape.
MDF or chipboard boards are attached to the bottom of the base; when assembled, they serve as the facade of the furniture. When designing elements, the interior design is taken into account. The rack and the bed are united by a lifting device. The mechanism carries heavy loads, so experts advise choosing high-quality systems. When making a wardrobe bed, you should also pay attention to the dimensional characteristics of the mattress and the availability of fittings.
Frame making
The transforming frame must hide a compact resting place, so it is made according to the calculated dimensions and configuration. The design should provide access to a spacious niche for the sleeping bed. When making calculations, it is important to take into account the parameters of the mattress so that the depth of the box matches the thickness of the bed. Experts recommend adding 2-3 cm to the required size.
The material used is easy-to-process chipboards. The parts are cut by the manufacturers to avoid chipping. You can order a ready-made frame from specialists, which will simplify installation work, but will cost more than doing the structure yourself.
The box contains several elements: baseboard, back wall of the cabinet, shelves for support. There are standard size standards, but you can meet individual project- by author's design. In this case, accurate independent calculations will be required.
For the base of the frame, 2 boards are needed, which become load-bearing in the structure. The size of the beams is about 2 m. The beams are fixed at the top, bottom and along the edges with screws and glue. Cross boards add reliability. The finished frame is covered with cladding and the materials are fixed adhesives. The parts are fastened using self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws, which are placed at a distance of 25 cm. Assembly work is carried out on a flat surface.
Making a folding part of the bed
The next stage is the installation of the folding part of the sleeping bed. The base is plywood, sawn to the required dimensions. To avoid sagging and damage after installation, it is recommended to use 4 boards and add cross slabs. Additional sides will strengthen the sleeping bed. Additional elements must not interfere with the functioning of the lifting system.
When making a folding block, proper calculations are required to avoid overloading the box. The moving part should facilitate the design. The bed lifting mechanism can be represented by garage curtains, a solid axle, or axles with bearings.
It is important to ensure that the frame with the mattress is lifted and the structure is fixed vertically without physical effort. This requires spring blocks or counterweights. It is not necessary to make a lifting mechanism for a transforming bed yourself; the systems can be purchased ready-made.
What do you do with old furniture?
How to make a large double bed with your own hands. In continuing the improvement of the apartment, it was necessary to solve the problem of expanding the living space of the bedroom with an area of 11 m2. In addition to the small area, the room had another drawback - the width was only 2 meters 45 cm. A double bed installed in the center of the room and two wardrobes along the walls significantly reduced the living space, and the small width of the room made it difficult to get to balcony door when walking around the bed. Several rearrangements of furniture did not lead to an improvement in the situation in the room - another solution was required. Trips to furniture stores and furniture-making showrooms offered alternatives. It was decided to install a built-in lift-up bed. But there were problems here too, it was not possible to find ready-made solutions a double lift-up bed with a mattress size of 160 cm by 200 cm, and the furniture manufacturing solutions offered in the workshops did not suit me with the width of the bed when raised and the height of the bed when lowered. All the bed designs examined were based on chipboards, and this did not satisfy me, both for environmental reasons and for the reliability of long-term operation. And to top it all off, the cost of the furniture, in my opinion, was simply off the charts. This was determined by simply calculating the cost of component materials. For some designs, the retail cost of materials was more than an order of magnitude lower than the cost of the bed. Of course, I immediately had the desire to make the bed myself and with my own hands. The Internet has helped in solving this issue.
How to make a large lift-up bed with your own hands
The work began with the search for the important node lifting bed - hinges. Were considered various options lifting mechanisms with spring hinges, pneumatic cylinders, counterweights and mechanical with electric drive. The choice fell on the use of the most proven and feasible method of manufacturing a lifting bed using lifting mechanics based on spring hinges. The question “how to do it?” I decided to make the bed with my own hands with the selected hinge option. The most powerful hinges that could be found were chosen; the manufacturer guaranteed a lifting weight of the bed of 200 kg. Hinge brand 108/4 , are made in Italy. The hinges were ordered online. A month later transport company I delivered a parcel weighing about 25 kg with two hinges and retractable legs for the bed.
Receipt of the cargo became the starting point for the start of work. The next day the old bed was dismantled, the old mattress was thrown out and immediately purchased new size 2000×1600×200 mm. The place for furniture creativity was ready. Maybe this is the wrong approach, but at that time I didn’t have a clear decision on how to make a bed. Initially I was going to go along classic version– production of a wall structure where the bed was removed. But the desire to make the entire bed out of wood, not Chipboard boards, the cost of materials has greatly increased. This is where the idea came to use two closets in the room as a wall structure - a niche for the future bed. But first it was necessary to make the bed itself. Geometric calculations and glued boards offered in the nearest store led to following design lifting part of the bed: side walls made of thick glued boards with a cross-section of 250×40 mm, end walls made of 25 mm glued boards, crossbars made of bars with a cross-section of 45×45 mm. Don’t be lazy, choose cross members without knots and defects; the fibers should be even along the entire length of the bar! I admit that, having no experience, I was tormented by doubts as to whether the bottom structure would withstand future loads, and periodically imagined how the bed under me would break;). The work was carried out in the evenings and on weekends right in the room. So, the sequence of making a homemade lift-up built-in bed. Unfortunately photo chronicle of production makeshift bed was carried out, but as happens it was not preserved with a few exceptions. The bed assembly scheme was born in the process of building a homemade lifting bed.
Instructions for making a homemade lift-up bed
1. The sketch of the lifting part of the bed consisted of a box of four boards and four cross members to form the bottom for the orthopedic frame.
2. It was decided to connect the frame boards in THORN on glue (hereinafter, PVA glue was used to glue the wood, 1 liter was enough for everything). To apply the contours of the spikes, a stencil is cut out of cardboard before sawing. Carefully apply the contour for cutting, incorrect markings after cutting will ruin the board, there is no reserve in length! Remember the rule - in each connection of boards, the tenon of one board must correspond to the groove between the tenons of the other board. The boards were originally 30-50mm larger than the external size of the box; this excess is cut off after gluing the joint.
Spikes3. The spikes were selected with a jigsaw and trimmed if necessary construction knife and a chisel.
4. After removing the tenons on a flat surface (for me it was the covered floor of the room), the bed frame is assembled, you need to check inner dimensions and the lengths of the diagonals - the diagonals must be equal! (±5-10mm). If necessary, the workpieces are adjusted to ensure equal diagonals.
5. Mark the installation locations of the crossbars. The grooves are selected using a manual milling machine, the cutting depth is 30mm. There is no worse way to do this carefully with a chisel.
6. After selecting the grooves, the workpieces were polished and coated with colorless varnish on water based. A total of 3 layers were applied. After the varnish had completely dried, work continued.
7. We adjust the dimensions of the crossbars taking into account the depth and shape of the grooves made. We don’t throw away the trimmings, they will still be needed.
8. Connect the crossbars and tenon joints frame with glue. We need to prepare for this operation. Best connection happens when connected with force. The force is created using twisted rope loops wooden block. Be careful and careful!!! It is imperative to make linings to prevent damage to the boards by ropes. The loop must be twisted until significant forces arise when twisting.
It is very important to set all the angles and constantly monitor the length of the diagonals. The diagonals must be equal. The glue must be dried thoroughly and securely. It is better to leave the frame alone for a few days.
9. After making the frame, the room was rearranged; one of the cabinets was specially moved to form the second wall of the bed niche. The distance between the cabinets should be equal to the external width of the bed and the thickness of the mounted hinges.
10. It is natural to attach the hinges to just standing wardrobe didn't. Cabinets need to be strengthened and secured. Firstly, all removable shelves in the lower part of the cabinets were firmly screwed to the walls using furniture screws, and all available threaded connections fit. Each cabinet is screwed to the wall at at least three points using corners. As a result, the cabinets stood rooted to the spot :).
11. Since there was no clarity on the method of assembling the bed, I decided to install the hinges and check the mechanism. The position of the hinges determines the height of the lowered bed and the distance from the wall of the raised bed. When choosing the position of the hinges, it is necessary to take into account the movement of the headboard along the radius of the axis of rotation. In my version, when lowering the bed, the board passes 3cm from the wall. The coordinates of the rotation axis are shown in the sketch.
12. The loop is a structure in the form of a frame installed on a support and the actual loop installed on the bed. The frames were attached to the cabinets with self-tapping screws. They must be installed symmetrically and at the same level.
13. The hinges were fastened using furniture bolts through a large washer. The hinges have holes with appropriate threads. Holes were marked and drilled in the frame boards at the installation site. Through the holes the loops were attached to the bed. I want to say right away that if you follow my path, then you need to remove at least four springs from the hinge so that you can easily lower the bed frame for work and put a small load to avoid spontaneous lifting.
14. After screwing the hinges, I installed the frame vertically. The design of the box was still light and I easily inserted the hinges into the frames and secured them with standard staples. With fewer springs, the frame was easily lowered and remained down with a small weight, and when raised it also had to be held. The room immediately felt freer. Further all work was carried out on a fixed bed.
15. The next step there was reinforcement at the bottom of the bed. The crossbars made of bars looked flimsy and it was hard to believe that they would support the weight. But there was nowhere to retreat - construction continued. It was decided to make the bottom from 6mm plywood.
16. Bars with a cross-section of 45x45mm were glued to the side walls of the frame along the perimeter. The glued bars and crossbars must be in the same plane. Clamps were used to create pressure. To avoid damaging the boards, it is necessary to place spacers. With only 5 clamps, the bars were glued in three stages. The bars were not glued only to the side walls of the top of the bed, where the legs were attached. Further work were carried out 7 days after gluing the last block.
17. For the legs at the top end board bed frame selected 2 holes square shape. Initially, I was tormented by doubts that the mounting holes for the legs were not enough, but subsequent operating experience showed the reliability of the fastening.
18. The bottom is made from purchased 6 mm plywood. It was not possible to make the bottom from one piece of plywood, since standard width sheet of plywood 1500mm, two sheets of plywood measuring 1500x1500mm were purchased from the store.
19. Sheets of plywood are cut so that the seams fall on less loaded bars. After cutting out all the pieces of plywood, I began work on attaching them to the bars. The plywood was supposed to be attached with glue, and to create pressure at the gluing points, drill into the plywood through holes 3mm in diameter for pressing sheets with self-tapping screws. The plywood is laid out on the inner frame and future holes are planned; to reduce nicks in the gluing area, it is better to start drilling from reverse side sheets of plywood. At the place where the legs are attached, grooves are left in the pieces of plywood for access to the fasteners of the legs.
20. The installation sites of the sheets are generously lubricated with glue and the plywood sheets are pressed using self-tapping screws. The bed is raised and again left alone for several days. Then all the screws are removed, and the remaining holes are filled with PVA glue in several stages until the glue dries completely. I left some of the screws in place.
21. With the installation of plywood, the bed became heavier and it was necessary to adjust the tension of the springs to make it easier to lift; it no longer rose spontaneously. During the drying process, the leaks in the gluing of the plywood with the bars are additionally covered with glue. This must be done to prevent possible squeaks In the bed.
22. At this stage, you can remove the bed from its hinges and install three more springs. Further, the bed will become heavier and installing the springs will require more effort.
23. Tests of the plywood-covered bottom showed (three adults stood in the center of the bed) that the bed was durable. After testing, the bottom of the bed was additionally sanded and coated with water-based varnish in three layers.
24. After the varnish has dried, the mattress is installed in the bed. The mattress, when unfolded, turned out to be somewhat larger in size and therefore fit tightly into the internal volume of the bed frame and its additional fastening, as in the site, was not required.
25. The next practical tests of the bed were carried out, based on the results of the presence of a large free space between the mattress and the wall in the raised state, I decided to place pillows and a blanket in the bed. To do this, four Velcro straps from the mattress packaging are installed. The ends of the belts were attached to the bottom of the bed with self-tapping screws - bugs. When the bed was raised, the blanket and pillows were pressed against the mattress with straps.
26. Finishing continued by installing cladding on the outer part of the bottom from fiberboard sheets - sheets from the bottom were used old bed. The sheets were attached with glue and pressed with postal nails. All sheets are placed in the same plane. After gluing the fiberboard, the bed was already raised with considerable effort and the tension of the springs was adjusted with the appropriate screw on each hinge to easily lift the bed.
27. To strictly fix the bed in a vertical position, limiters for the movement of the bed when lifting are installed. The limiters are installed on a horizontal board between the cabinets, which also serves as dust protection for the raised bed. The limiter is made of a piece of board; a sponge rubber shock absorber is installed at the point of contact with the bed. It is better to secure a piece of board with glue and screws. The glue fastening did not hold up and was reinforced with self-tapping screws.
A bed with a lifting mechanism is the best option for small apartments, which allows you to solve several problems related to the improvement of the room at once. Practicality, reliability and versatility are its main advantages. It can act not only as a sleeping place, but also serve as a chest of drawers for storing various things and accessories. Making a bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If all the requirements and recommendations of specialists are met, the bed will turn out no worse than the factory one. In order to figure out how to do this, it is necessary to divide the entire process into several stages, each of which requires special attention.
Features of such models
Beds with lifting device have a number of features that must be taken into account when making it yourself:
- the dimensions of the bed, which mainly affect the strength of the lifting device. The larger the bed, the more weight will be placed on the mechanism. According to the standards, the bed size is 2 meters in length, the width of a single bed is 0.9 m, a double bed is 2 m;
- beds with a lifting device can be single or double;
- the mechanism can be mounted horizontally or vertically;
- The height of the bed affects the capacity of the box. If the product is planned to be made with legs, then the box will be much smaller than a bed without them. A product without legs has another important advantage: the absence of dust underneath;
- assembling a product with your own hands requires consistent, responsible implementation of all its stages, these are drawings, preparation of materials, manufacturing individual parts beds, their assembly. On average, it will take 1-2 months to make a bed, subject to the simultaneous completion of other daily duties;
- the choice of material should be made not only from personal preferences, but also depending on the design of the room in which the product is planned to be installed.
Bed assembly diagram Materials and tools
Any construction process or making furniture with your own hands begins with drawing up a drawing, as well as preparing the necessary tools and materials. The choice of material begins with the base of the box. The most common and inexpensive material for the manufacture of any furniture are chipboard sheets. But other materials, such as OSB, particle boards and others can also be used, it all depends on the preferences of the owner and financial capabilities. Next, the upholstery material is prepared, the choice of which depends solely on personal preferences and the design of the room.
The filling of the bed consists of foam rubber and upholstery fabric. Their dimensions and thickness are prepared according to the drawn up drawing.
The most accessible and inexpensive material for making a bed is chipboard
To process the material and prepare it for installation work With your own hands you will need the following tool:
- level;
- roulette;
- pencil or marker;
- jigsaw;
- screwdriver with different attachments;
- grinder with a metal disc;
- welding machine;
- construction hair dryer;
- steel strips;
- furniture stapler.
Orthopedic base 
Base materials 
Elevator transformation system Which lifting mechanism to choose
The design of modern beds allows them to be used in rooms of different sizes, while having a suitable lifting mechanism, thanks to which the berth can recline both horizontally and vertically. Besides, lifting beds classified according to the type of built-in lift. The simplicity and ease of use of furniture depends on it. The lifting mechanism is divided into 3 types:
- with manual lift;
- spring;
- on gas shock absorbers.
The manual lift mechanism is the most affordable device because it does not contain additional devices in the form of shock absorbers or springs. Beds with such a mechanism are mainly used for adults, since when opening the box you need to make a lot of effort, children cannot cope with such a load. But, besides the shortcomings, manual mechanism There are also advantages - strength, durability.
The spring mechanism is convenient to use, but its service life ranges from 3 to 5 years, after which it will need to be completely replaced. The main cause of failure is wear and stretching of the spring. The big advantage of the spring mechanism is its price; it is relatively small, thanks to which it is very popular and in demand.
The gas shock absorber is the most convenient, reliable, durable mechanism. The device operates smoothly, silently, with virtually no human intervention. The service life of such a mechanism ranges from 5 to 10 years, with constant use. The choice of shock absorber is made depending on the dimensions of the product and the weight of the sleeping frame. The mechanism on gas shock absorbers is expensive, but at the same time in demand.
When making a bed with your own hands, a lifting device can be purchased at furniture stores or order online. You can make it yourself from suitable materials. But when choosing materials, you need to take into account the fact that the load from the mattress falls not only on the shock absorbers and mechanism bars, but also on the fastening points with fastening fittings.
The mechanism is fastened in the following order:
- first installed top bar devices, to the base of the box, sheathing of the sleeping plane;
- to completely secure it, a bar is made from rolled iron;
- assembly of the next two slats will allow you to control the height of the rise of the grid with the mattress;
- the lower support bar is attached to the main box; it is necessary to facilitate the sliding of the hinge supports;
- Having finished installing the mechanism, you need to check all its fastenings.
The gas lift is mounted on a rack base 
Mechanism on gas shock absorbers 
Installation of gas shock absorbers Making a lifting frame
Assembling a lifting frame with your own hands consists of two main stages, this carpentry work and processing process.
Carpentry work:
- assembly begins with the preparation of parts for the frame, according to the drawing, which indicates all dimensions;
- Next, the base of the frame is assembled, this is a box of calibrated boards. The process must be carried out on the floor to avoid distortions. To align the corners, you must use a construction square;
- The structure is tied using metal corners, and for strength, the joints are glued with wood glue. When fastening, you need to pay attention to the heads of the screws; they should sink into the wood, but not too much. It is recommended to immediately treat any cut areas that appear;
- in case of large sleeping space, it is recommended to make a central partition along the frame;
- the next stage is the fastening of the slats, which are screwed using screws with inside sidewalls, aligning them along the bottom edge of the box. They are needed to attach lamellas to them. The size of the slats should be within 20 by 80 mm;
- The same slats act as slats, only their length will correspond to the width of the bed. They are fastened to support rails along the frame, in increments of no more than 15 cm. Plywood is also suitable for slats, but in this case the installation of a central partition is required;
- At this point the carpentry process is completed and the lifting frame is ready.
Frame processing:
- this process involves refinement wooden parts using sandpaper or a special sanding machine and coating them with varnish;
- One of the nuances of preparing the frame is a plywood sheet, which lies on the lamellas to evenly distribute the load. Or you can lay the lamellas with a step frequency of 8–10 cm.
Frame assembly 
The sides of the bed are attached using corners and screws 
Finished bed frame Making the main frame
The assembly of the frame, like all other components of the bed, is carried out in stages. First of all, to manufacture the main frame, its components are prepared. Design, height, size of backrests, presence of legs - all these nuances are reflected in a pre-drawn drawing. The main requirement in the manufacture of a product is reliability, strength and quality of the material.
As mentioned above, any material can be used, depending on financial capabilities and personal preferences. For the frame of a double standard bed (2000x1800) you will need: for the side parts - two boards 207 cm long, for the end elements you need two boards 182 cm long. They are assembled according to the same principle as the lifting frame, using screws, corners and glue . In the assembly process, this moment is the most critical, so before attaching the corners, you need to check that all corners correspond to 90 degrees. Excess glue that has come out must be removed immediately so that in the future it does not cause difficulties when processing the frame.
During production large beds With your own hands, you need to install a stiffener in the main box, through the longitudinal axis of the product. If the bed design includes legs, then the last step in installation process is their installation. The simplest option for making them is to assemble two bars (40x50) and install them at the depth of two crowns of the bar. To strengthen the structure, you can also install a leg in the center. Having placed the structure in its original position, you can proceed to its processing, clean it and varnish it.
Fastening slats for plywood bottom 
Bed legs 
The legs are attached inside the frame 
View from outside
To prevent the floor from scratching, you can glue pieces of linoleum to the ends of the legs. Sheathing of the product
The final stage in the manufacture of a bed with a lifting device is its design and upholstery. Depending on the design of the room, the personal preferences of the owner, as well as banal financial capabilities, cladding can be done using:
- fabrics;
- skin;
- dermantine.
If the product was made from quality wood You can treat it with paints and varnishes.
For the cladding process you will need:
- fabric (or other selected materials);
- construction stapler;
- sheet foam rubber.
The covering is done on the main frame and headboard. To create a small volume and airiness of the upholstery material, a pad of sheet foam rubber is made between the wood and the fabric. A construction stapler is quite sufficient for fastening fabric; its metal staples, thanks to the spring mechanism, are driven quite firmly into the wood and hold the fabric tightly.
Legs are wrapped in upholstery material 
Final installation of legs 
The sides of the bed are covered with foam rubber 
Foam rubber is nailed on top with an overlap of approximately 3-4 mm 
Leatherette upholstery 
This is how the side around the leg was finished 
The leatherette was lined at the bottom with a slouch, without a turn-up 
The corners of the upholstery are fixed Making a headboard
The headboard for the bed can be made of the same material as the entire product, or you can use a regular sheet of plywood. You need to take the necessary measurements on plywood or other material and use a jigsaw to cut out the shape of the back that you like best. But you need to keep in mind that during the cladding process it is easier to work with rectangular shapes.
A headboard blank is cut from a sheet of plywood 
A wooden border is attached to the workpiece The headboard is upholstered according to the same principle as the main frame, using a construction stapler, sheathing material and sheets of foam rubber. The difference is that for the headboard the covering should be more airy, so two sheets of foam rubber are laid between the plywood and the material. Depending on the design of the bed, using foam rubber and different types material, can be given unique look headboard.
Fastening foam rubber 
Second layer of foam 
Thick batting finish 
Stretch the fabric 
Finished headboard To summarize, we can say that when thinking about how to assemble a bed with a lifting mechanism, you should not be afraid of difficulties, because it is quite possible to do it yourself. The main condition for receiving good result, this is the sequential execution of all installation stages, the first of which is drawing up a drawing, where all the dimensions, amount of material, and necessary tools are indicated. If all geometric proportions are observed, the bed will turn out to be of much higher quality and more reliable than the purchased version. The material for its manufacture is selected depending on personal preferences, financial capabilities and room design.
Such a modern development as a folding bed built into a closet with your own hands complements the interior well and frees up a lot of space. Folding beds can be installed even if there is enough space; it is more convenient to accommodate guests during their arrival than on a folding bed.
Making it yourself is not too difficult if you have basic craftsmanship skills, necessary tool and there are funds to purchase the materials from which the bed is made. If you have had experience in mastering carpentry and your memories of it are rather positive, then making a bed that transforms into a wardrobe will not be difficult.
To work you will need:
- square ruler;
- level;
- roulette;
- marker or pencil;
- small wood saw or jigsaw;
- drill or hammer drill;
- plywood;
- metallic profile;
- self-tapping screws;
- furniture legs;
- lifting mechanism.
Before starting work, calculate general dimensions, which will have a folding bed. It is also necessary to calculate the number and location of fastening elements and all components, the lifting mechanism and determine the use of materials.
Folding bed built into a closet: design elements
There are three main elements that require special attention: a fixed vertically fixed base, the base of the bed with a mattress and the hinge connecting them. The fixed base mounted on the wall must have great strength, since the folding bed and lifting hinge weigh a lot. Fastening is carried out to the ceiling, floor and wall. Most often, the base looks like a hollow box for a cabinet, but if you make it yourself, there can be many options.
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Vertical base
The wall to which the built-in bed will be attached must be at least 2 bricks wide. If the wall is made of plasterboard, then the fasteners are used long so that they pass through the plasterboard and are secured to the wall, brick or concrete. Otherwise, there is a very high probability of the entire box being torn off the wall. Most furniture is made from chipboard, but in this case the base, namely its vertical walls, should be reinforced by adding metal corners or boards made of solid wood. Chipboard is strong enough under standard loads, but in this case the load is significantly increased.
You can strengthen the base with a pair vertical racks from boards or old metal pipes, fixed to the floor and ceiling. Installing all fastening elements on the base, markings mounting holes are produced especially carefully, since its functioning depends on it. The self-tapping screws with which the box is attached to the wall of the room should be located no more than 25 cm from each other. The structure of the base box itself must rest solely on a flat floor and be an even rectangle, all angles of which are equal to 90º - otherwise the strength will be reduced.
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Lifting mechanism
The built-in folding bed is driven by a special lifting mechanism, which ensures the connection of the mattress to the base. It is quite difficult to make it yourself, and its strength finished product should be significantly higher than what can be achieved by making it yourself, so it is advisable to purchase a lifting mechanism from a reliable furniture manufacturing company.
In some cases, mechanisms are used that are not strictly intended for furniture; for example, a built-in bed can be equipped with a garage curtain or a solid axle running across the entire width of the bed, connected to the sidewalls. But you should engage in the manufacture of a lifting mechanism yourself only if you are completely confident in your abilities and the strength of the materials. An object as heavy as a bed and mattress, if not kept in an upright position, can cause very serious injuries.
The frame with the mattress should not only rise with ease, but also be fixed in this position for the required amount of time. IN homemade mechanisms are used gas shock absorbers, counterweights on strong cables or several coiled springs. In order to reduce the load on the base and generally not make the structure heavier, it is advisable to make the lifting mechanism as light as possible.