CONVENIENT AND PRACTICAL GARDEN PATHS
At the stage of preliminary design of garden paths, it is necessary to draw traffic lines and trace them. It is necessary to take into account the topography of the territory, type of soil, architectural features of buildings, and time of year. It would not be amiss if you provide a version of a ring path - a kind of familiarization and walking route.
Taking into account the features of the terrain, it is possible to plan paths in a more advantageous manner; for example, a straight garden path on straight terrain visually shortens the distance between connected objects, even over large areas. In this case, a longer but more winding path will give the area volume and depth of perspective. In addition, obstacles on the intended path, such as trees, especially young ones, should be taken into account. There is little pleasure in walking along a path hunched over or swinging your arms to avoid tree branches.
You are lucky if the soil in the landscaped area is sandy. The situation will become somewhat more complicated with heavy clayey soil or, even worse, peat soil. Soil has the property of movement depending on the season of the year, the amount of precipitation, the load of buildings and movement on it.
Architectural features It is usually recommended to consider buildings on the territory only from an aesthetic point of view - beauty is in harmony. To complete the overall composition of the style of a summer cottage or country house, it is necessary that garden paths matched this style. The most favorable time of year for paving garden paths is the period from May to September.
The recommended width of the garden path, along which it is not intended to carry a wheelbarrow or walk in a crowd, is 50 cm (no less!). For a path that will be used for household needs, a width of at least 70 cm is recommended, which is necessary for passage with a standard household or construction wheelbarrow.
To avoid standing puddles after heavy rains or drift of soil from the lawn, garden paths must be raised a few centimeters above the soil of the area. To ensure water drainage, the transverse profile of the path must be convex; for this, a transverse slope is made from the center of the path to its sides at an angle of 20 - 30 (2-3 cm). The longitudinal slope must be at least 20 (2 cm) for each linear meter. In case of high humidity or swampy areas, it is recommended to install drainage communications with a longitudinal slope towards the ditch or lawn. You can make transverse, slightly deepened (10–15 mm) grooves to drain water 20–30 mm wide to the sides of the lawns.
MARKING PATHS ON THE TERRITORY
It is customary to start marking in the direction from the main entrance to the house, and then to all objects throughout the territory. The trajectory is marked by pegs driven into the ground with a distance between them of 2 - 3 m; on turns and bends, pegs are driven in more often so as not to disturb the smoothness of the lines of the future path. A cord is pulled along the pegs. Now you will need a rail with the desired track width recorded on it. Next, apply the template strip perpendicular to the peg on one side. In accordance with the mark on the rail, the peg is driven into the ground on the other side. Pull the thread over the pegs of the second side - the main garden path is outlined. Now you can mark the secondary paths in the garden in the same way with your own hands. The same marking approach is used if necessary in the construction of a new additional path.
TREATMENT OF SOIL UNDER THE GARDEN PATH
Along the marked path, it is necessary to remove the turf, remove stones and tree roots. Then you need to dig a trench (depth: 0.10–0.15 m) in accordance with the markings, carefully compact the soil. After compaction, sand, crushed stone, a mixture of crushed stone and sand, gravel are poured into the trench - depending on the soil, now the trench must be filled with water, then compacted again. After this compaction, you can lay the main layer, which usually consists of brick, cobblestones, and concrete slabs.
PAVING MATERIAL
Any materials are used to construct paths; zealous owners even use sifted and sorted materials. construction garbage or material such as sand, brick (a ladle is broken burnt brick), crushed stone, slag, limestone, stone, granite cuttings, concrete slabs (the strongest material), empty glass bottles, scrap tiles. But asphalt pavement is not recommended for environmental and hygienic reasons; in addition, the technology for laying it is more complicated.
- The basic rule for laying any material is to wet the trench and the material itself before laying.
- To ensure that the edges of the path are even, a limiter (boards, strips of iron or plastic) can be placed in the trench on both sides, and removed after the solution has set.
- Non-main curved garden paths can be laid monolithic concrete using formwork along the contour of the future path. The crushed stone layer is 8–12 cm, the concrete layer is 6–8 cm.
- On fresh concrete, after partial evaporation of the moisture, you can apply an arbitrary design (imitation of tiles or stone, as well as in the form of an original print of some interesting object).
- If desired, leave concrete surface smooth, do not iron it too much, otherwise it will be slippery when it rains. This rule also applies to paving slabs, marble fragments or slabs, and bottle coating.
COMBINING MATERIALS WHEN LAYING GARDEN PATHS
Combined coatings for garden paths give interesting view throughout the area. Combinatoriality (the formation of various combinations from many elements) can be provided by combinations of materials. Colored tiles will look beautiful in combination with gravel or small fragmented glass mosaics (from broken glass bottles) or scrap tiles. And flagstone looks good in combination with mosaic or fragmentation ceramic tiles. We must not forget about decorating the garden paths themselves; on their sides you can plant ornamental plants, make interesting flower arrangements in the form of a living border or hedge. You can illuminate the paths with lanterns and use original lighting solutions.
A significant role in combining is assigned to color scheme starting materials, they must be harmoniously combined in color, shape and texture with each other and with other buildings, as well as with existing decorative elements– stone flower beds, lawns, water features, maintaining the overall style.
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Rostislav Kiriev 12/15/2014 | 5809
When planning a site, a mandatory attribute is to determine the location and type of paths. This will make it much easier to navigate in the future.
Factors influencing the choice of location for paving paths
The main questions that all gardeners ask themselves when planning are how many paths to make and where they should lead. First define center your site. This is usually where the house is built. From the center, the paths should diverge in all directions towards significant places area: gazebos, playgrounds, outbuildings and garage, relaxation areas in the garden, pool or artificial pond, flower beds, and, finally, to the entrance to the site.
The second aspect that we pay attention to when choosing a place is garden path width. The pedestrian (walking) path must be at least 1.5 m so that two people can walk along it. Make the paths between the beds in the garden from 50 cm to 1 m. And if this is an access road to a garage, then when constructing it, take into account the load that the path will withstand under the weight of a car or other vehicle. Having examined the site plan and calculated everything possible options location of the tracks, choose the most interesting and convenient one.
The third determining factor when choosing a paving location is general site design concept. Paths can be straight or winding, with beautiful bends. Most often, at least one path is left straight, and the rest are made of different lengths and shapes.
Fourth: paths and paths must have intersection points(especially if the area is large). This is done so that it is convenient to pass from one place to another. This is also a preventive measure for trampling paths in unplanned places.
Selecting the track type
The site planning style is reflected in track configurations. The geometric (regular) style corresponds to regular shapes, straight lines, and, as a consequence, straight paths and trails. In landscape design, correct forms are excluded. Therefore, the paths should be winding, with soft turns. Moreover, the entire road network of the site should not be symmetrical relative to anything. Most often used in areas mixed style, which is characterized by a competent merging of straight lines with elements irregular shape and asymmetry.
Used in various cases different materials for the construction of paths.
1. Natural stone is practical, durable, environmentally friendly, and also expensive and prestigious.
2. Concrete - cheaper than the previous one, but durable and strong, it is possible to implement large quantity design solutions when designing the path.
3. Concrete plates– strength and durability, big choice shapes and colors.
4. Clinker and block bricks– affordable prices, ease of paving, super strength and wear resistance, environmental friendliness.
5. Natural grass - such paths do not require material costs, but even if the rules of division are observed, they must be maintained in working order at all times.
6. Shredded tree bark - fits well into any designer’s plan, affordable price, but the paths are not durable and require constant updating and adding bark.
7. Gravel – inexpensive material various colors, easy and tight fit. For such a path you need a border made of brick, curb stone or timber.
Depending on the purpose of the paths and paths and your material wealth, you can choose the appropriate material.
3 rules for paving paths
When building paths of any kind, you should know several rules:
- the path should be above ground level and have a slight slope from its center to the edges to drain rainwater;
- to lay a path, a trench must be dug (its depth depends on the material from which the path is made), a layer of sand or crushed stone is placed in it, that is, the base of the path is made, and only then the path itself is made;
- in some cases, it is necessary to install a curb (for example, when using gravel).
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In this article I want to look at how to determine the width of roads, paths and paths on a site. After all, comfortable movement around your site largely depends on the paths. And their width plays an important role in their convenience.
Agree that for a good, convenient and beautiful path I want to walk again and again. And if you have to walk along an uncomfortable path, then every time you have to persuade yourself to walk along it and put off things for later that require walking along it.
The width of the tracks is largely determined by their functional purpose.
- Roads on which vehicles can travel.
Such roads must be laid from the border of the site to the house and to utility yard. I am not a supporter of driving around the settlement, much less around the estate. But in life anything can happen, and therefore it is simply necessary to provide in advance access to the house and to the main buildings for ambulances and firefighters. And such an entrance will also come in handy when you bring oversized and heavy items.
The width of such roads according to SNiP 2.07.01-89* “Network of streets and roads”, clause 6.18 of Table 9 should be 2.75 – 3.0 m.
- Width of main footpaths.
The main connecting element of the estate are the main paths. Their width must be at least 1.2 meters. When determining the width of the track, it is necessary to take into account its purpose and based on this, we calculate the width of the track. On main paths, it is necessary to consider the possibility that if two people meet, they could freely separate without causing inconvenience to each other.
- Width of minor footpaths
Secondary tracks can be narrower than the main tracks. Again, to determine the width of the track, we take into account its purpose. The width of the paths must be at least 0.5 - 0.7 meters.
- Path width
Paths are the narrowest paths in your estate. Their width allows for comfortable movement of one person and is 0.5 - 0.7 meters.
Now let’s take a closer look at where these values for the width of pedestrian paths come from.
The 1.2 meter wide path is an ordinary “self-trodden” path, designed for two people. " People's paths"is simply compacted soil, the boundaries of which are grass growing on the sides. The height level is the same for both the path and the lawn, which determines the convention of the border of the path. This convention allows you to cross the border easily and without consequences if necessary (for example, to get ahead of a pedestrian in front). You won’t stumble over anything, you won’t get caught, and your attention won’t be distracted by anything. This is one of the advantages of “folk paths”.
Of course, a track width of 1.2 meters is enough for two people to move. But this is enough for people who know each other, who allow them to cross their personal spaces. But this width is insufficient for the movement of two strangers. And it will be difficult to pass on this path without stepping on the boundaries of the path. Yes, at the same time, curbs will also get in the way. Therefore, if possible, it is better to take a larger path width. For example - 1.5 meters, as recommended by SNiP 2.07.01-89* "Urban Planning", clause 4.11. According to this document, the lane width for one person is 0.75 meters. From here we find that the width of the path should be a multiple of 0.75 meters. From all of the above, we conclude that it is advisable to make the main paths 1.5 meters wide, and the secondary paths at least 0.75 meters wide. Paths can be made narrower - 0.6 meters.
When deciding on the width of the path, let’s pay attention to one more point - where our path will go, what it borders on. If the path is adjacent to a house or fence, then this should also be reflected in the width of the path. Walking along the path, a person tries to distance himself from various vertical elements. The higher this element is, the greater the distance between it and the person. According to the same document SNiP 2.07.01-89* “Urban Planning”, table. 8, approx. 8, the width of the path should increase by at least 0.5 meters.
We looked in detail at how to determine the width of paths on a site and what needs to be taken into account when calculating. If you have any questions or want to discuss something, be sure to leave a comment.
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Paths in the country are transport arteries of the site that connect the house with other objects. They will keep your shoes clean in any weather and give the garden a well-groomed appearance. From a design point of view, they allow you to decorate your dacha space no worse than ornamental plants.
Garden path options
You can make paths in your dacha with your own hands from various materials eg wood, tiles. concrete, a natural stone, plastic, etc. They all have different service life, ease of use, aesthetic properties and, of course, cost. Therefore, the basis of choice is the search for a compromise between functionality, design and costs of acquisition and installation.
The most common and most popular option for paving paths in dacha conditions These are paving slabs.
Fig.1.
It is popular due to the variety of shapes and colors, as well as the ease of paving.
Fig.2.
Fig.3.
Concrete paths have become widespread. They are easy to create and good to use.
Fig.4.
Of course they have a simple appearance. However, they are an excellent base for any other coating. Concrete paths are somewhat similar to the foundation for a building.
Of course, materials of natural origin such as sandstone or pebbles will never go out of fashion. Their cost is quite high, but they allow you to create unique design plot.
Fig.5.
Fig.6.
More economical option imitating natural stone is a technology for creating paths by casting cement mortar into a mold.
Fig.7.
In addition to saving on building materials, this technology allows you to build a path and cast tiles at the same time, which greatly reduces time and simplifies the work.
No less interesting are the paths from natural wood. They can be made from log cuts or in the form of walkways.
Fig.8.
Fig.9.
The disadvantage of such paths is their low durability, due to the susceptibility of the wood to rot.
An alternative can be modern polymer slabs, which are used for organizing eco-parking.
Fig. 10.
A stronger and more durable type is concrete mesh.
Fig. 11.
This solution allows, on the one hand, to get a full-fledged path, and on the other, not to disturb the aesthetics of the lawn. This way you can make a place to park your car.
Choosing the optimal width
An important stage in creating a country path is the choice optimal width. If it is not of sufficient size, it will be inconvenient to move. If it is too wide, then there is likely to be an inappropriate waste of material, and, consequently, financial resources and labor costs for its construction.
The optimal width should be determined based on the characteristics of its operation. So the central paths should be made larger so that two people can diverge freely, and between the beds there should be less.
- The central ones should be 70-90 cm wide. This is enough for two adults to pass each other or walk along the path side by side.
- Branches to greenhouses or beds should be made 50-70 cm wide. Such paths are enough to comfortably roll a wheelbarrow with fertilizer.
- For passages along the beds, 30-50 cm will be enough. This size will ensure ease of caring for plants and will not take up much space.
It should be noted that if the path is made of paving stones, then its width must be tied to the size of the tile, i.e. must fit into an integer. Otherwise the design will suffer.
Do-it-yourself paving of paths
Laying paving slabs
Styling paving slabs They start by marking the path and installing the curb. According to the markings made, excess soil is removed. Grooves are made under the curb and filled with sand.
Apply on top of the sand cement mortar, and a curb is installed on it. At the same time, it is aligned according to pre-made markings. Usually a stretched cord is used for these purposes.
After the curbs are installed, agrofibre is laid on the ground. It will not allow the sand cushion to go into the ground, and at the same time provide drainage.
Fig. 12.
Concrete path technology
Concrete pavement, unlike paving slabs, is easier to manufacture. Its great advantage is the availability and ease of delivery of building materials to the site.
The device begins with marking and removing the fertile layer of soil. In total, it is necessary to remove 15–20 cm of soil.
Fig. 13.
After that, agrofibre is laid on the ground, covered with sand and thoroughly compacted. For achievement good result it can be spilled with water several times. This procedure will compact the pillow well.
Fig. 14.
Polyethylene is placed on top of the sand cushion to prevent leakage of the solution. And they pour cement mixture, periodically leveling it.
Fig. 15.
Cement mortar is made from 1 part cement, 3-4 parts sand and 0.5-1 part water. You can add crushed stone to it, this will make the pouring more durable and reduce the consumption of the cement component.
Upon completion of the device, the filling must be covered with polyethylene. After 2 days you can walk on it.
We looked at possible options for paths in the country. All of them will fit perfectly into the landscape of the site and will perfectly perform their main function. Of course, they differ in labor intensity and cost of construction. Coating made of concrete and paving slabs is the simplest and most durable. Therefore, most people choose this type, especially if they plan to do all the work with their own hands.
FORUMHOUSE users know well that life outside the city means not only a pleasant time in a hammock in the garden, but also constant housework. Everyone arranges their “ten acres” to their own taste. And if the creation of landscape design is a matter of personal preference, then garden paths are simply vital in any personal plot and at any dacha. Indeed, in addition to purely decorative purposes, it is the paths that allow us to move freely around the site, regardless of the time of year.
Therefore, increased demands are placed on materials for paving garden paths, such as wear resistance, safety, environmental friendliness and presentable appearance. Paving slabs meet all these requirements. Expert advice and step by step instructions from users of our forum in this article will help you lay tiles for the path in your country house yourself!
How to make a path from tiles. Planning.
Any construction should begin with careful planning of all work. Laying paving slabs will be no exception. First of all, you should pay attention to the following points:
The total number of paths and their location on the site. Tiles for paths in the garden.
The key rule can be formulated as follows: “The central path in the garden should lead from the entrance to the site to the house.” If there is a garage, workshop or gazebo on the site, then paths should be laid to them. This way, you can ensure the zoning of the site, ensuring unobstructed access to each building.
Width of sidewalk paths
The path leading to the house should be such a width that two adults walking towards each other can easily pass each other. On average, this value ranges from 1 to 1.5 meters.
Paths that are not used so often and lead to flower beds or beds can be made 0.5 to 0.8 meters wide.
You should also clearly define the functional purpose of the tracks.
Denis Bogdanov Landscape improvement specialist, forum nickname Denis Vlad-ch
– For myself, I clearly divide paths into decorative ones, leading to the gazebo, and functional ones, which are subject to heavy loads and lead to the house or garage.
Paths that experience heavy loads require more thorough preparation of the base than paths that are used from time to time.
Denis Vlad-ch
You also need to consider how you will care for your garden path in winter and autumn.
Unlike unfilled paths, paving slabs are easier to maintain. When removing snow and fallen leaves, you won't be throwing rubble aside.
The second most important characteristic of a garden sidewalk, after functionality, is how pleasant it is to walk along it. And in order to understand this, you can use the secret of landscape designers.
Vladimir Petriv Director of Petriv Landscape Designe
I always advise you to first walk along pre-marked paths and make sure that everything is comfortable and that it is convenient for all household members to move along them. I can say that after such a “walk” you almost always have to make adjustments to the original plan for marking the path.
In addition to determining the functionality of the garden path, you need to choose the thickness of the tiles. And here it is better to adhere to the following rules.
How to do sidewalk path: step-by-step instruction
In addition to determining the functionality of the garden path, it is necessary to select the thickness of the paving slabs. And here it is better to adhere to the following rules.
Konstantin MerzlyakovExpert from the Factory GOTIKA, Moscow:
For garden paths and local area where passenger vehicles do not enter, the paving slabs of the path can be no thicker than 40-50 mm. And for a path providing passage passenger car and parking areas, the thickness of the tiles must be at least 60 mm.
Vladimir Petriv:
Initial preparation for laying garden paths usually involves excavation, and this must be linked to the geoplasticity of your site. At large differences heights, slopes, etc., it will be necessary to move and remove large masses of land - a very costly undertaking that requires the use of construction equipment
Geoplastics is the artificial formation of the relief and architecture of a site.
How to lay a tile garden path. Recommendations from experts.
Paving slabs are an environmentally friendly and durable coating for the garden path. And its durability and beauty, first of all, will depend on the quality of paving slabs and compliance with laying technology. You can also make tiles for paths with your own hands.
Konstantin Merzlyakov
Modern paving slabs are made of concrete. The shape of the tiles can be absolutely any, which allows you to successfully fit garden paths into landscape design any area.
The service life of concrete vibropressed tiles is on average 15 years, provided proper preparation grounds.
And, like any coating, paving slabs require maintenance during operation (cleaning, use of water-repellent coatings, etc.).
The first stage preparatory work for laying paving slabs is to break down the contour of the area to be laid and set up control “beacons”. The angles of the territory, connection to existing areas, and slopes are taken into account. After the work on breaking out the contour has been completed, they begin to prepare the foundation, which includes the following types works: planning, installation of a load-bearing layer, installation of borders and installation of a leveling sand layer under the tiles.
DIY sidewalk paths
We make a path from paving slabs in the following step-by-step sequence:
- The earthen boxes under the side stone are torn off;
- A side stone is installed around the perimeter of the site. Curb stone is necessary for strong fixation of paving slabs;
- The underlying layer is poured;
- The base is being laid;
- The tile covering is being laid;
- The tile joints are filled.
It is also necessary to remember that when laying tiles, the following standards should be followed.
Alexander LoginovTechnical Director of the company TD BRAER
Work on the installation of paving must be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.06.03-85 “Highways” and SNiP III-10-75 “Landscaping”.
A independent process installation can be divided into a number of successive stages.
- Planning and designing a garden path. It is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site. Then develop the layout of the garden paths, choose the design and pattern of the tile layout;
- Cost calculation necessary materials;
- Carrying out work on laying garden paths.
Garden paths made of tiles.
Let's take a closer look at each of the points.
Alexander Loginov:
The choice of method for laying tiles depends on the condition of the dacha soil and the subsequent operating conditions of the site: the blind area of the building, a pedestrian area, an area for driving and parking cars, etc.
It should be remembered that the result of your work, first of all, will depend on the thoroughness of the preliminary marking and preparation of the base for laying the tiles.
Planning includes the following:
- draw the layout of the area to be paved;
- measure the area in order to put the dimensions on the plan;
- based on the above points, make a calculation required quantity tiles for laying, as well as the amount of materials for preparing the base of a tile path with a border.
After developing the plan, they begin marking future paths.
Alexander Loginov
First of all, determine the direction of water flow. Please note that water must flow along the building's blind area or along a path into drainage wells or onto lawns. The slope can be made longitudinal, transverse, longitudinal-transverse, but not less than 0.5%, that is, 5 mm per meter.
The direction of the slope should be such that water flows from the paving into drainage systems or on the lawn, but not towards the building!
After the location for laying the tiles has been determined, the boundaries of the path are marked. To do this, pegs are driven along the boundaries of the site, along which a cord or fishing line is pulled. After this, you can begin excavating the soil, following these recommendations:
- The excavation is carried out so that after laying the front surface of the tile reaches the specified level of your site;
- The area formed after excavation is leveled and compacted;
- If the soil is soft, it needs to be moistened (sprayed with water from a hose) and compacted.
Vladimir Petriv
Drainage and water disposal into a storm drain or storage well must be thought out and installed at the preparatory stage of work on laying garden paths.
Tiling a garden path
Konstantin Merzlyakov
When laying paving slabs on a complex curved surface and with a large difference in heights, it is necessary when planning to include a larger percentage for the consumption of tiles (trimming, adjusting, etc.).
Preparing the base of the sidewalk path
Most important stage laying paving slabs - preparing the base. The right foundation will not allow the path or site to “sag”, ensuring their longevity. It should be borne in mind that, despite the tight seams between the tiles, the base is still saturated with water. Therefore, a permeable drainage bearing layer (gravel, crushed stone) is needed at the base. Then some of the water from the surface will be drained through the paving stones and the load-bearing layer into the soil.
How to make paths from tiles.
It is also important to understand what layers it consists of. correct option base pie for laying tiles.
Alexander Mishin Expert of the Wienerberger Brick company
The pie consists of several layers: the natural soil base, the subbase, the underlying layer, the “bed” and, in fact, the “sidewalk”.
The “bed” is a layer of sand or small gravel. The sub-base is a bulk layer of soil, and the underlying layer consists of gravel or crushed stone.
Alexander Mishin
The thickness of the “bed” for any type of soil base is on average 3-5 cm. The thickness of the remaining layers should be formed based on indicators of the soil base such as humidity, density and composition.
Alexander Loginov
For the main supporting layer, frost-resistant material with a uniform grain composition (crushed stone, gravel) is used. This material must be laid evenly in height and with the required slopes.
To build a regular pedestrian country path, you will need to make a load-bearing layer 10-20 cm thick. When constructing areas for travel and parking passenger cars use a layer of 20-30 cm. For heavy loads, the load-bearing layer is increased and placed in 2-3 layers, each layer is compacted with a vibrating plate or vibrating roller.
As mentioned above, the method of preparing the base largely depends on the expected load on the garden path. It is also necessary to take into account bearing capacity soil.
Our forum user Oleg Novitsky advises how to build a sidewalk path from tiles in difficult soil: if under the base there is a so-called heavy or clay soil, or you have a waterlogged country cottage area, then the thickness crushed stone base it is necessary to make at least 10 cm.
Then geotextiles are laid.
Geotextiles allow water to pass through well and do not allow materials to mix (mixing materials leads to the formation of voids and gaps in the coatings).
Alexander Mishin
The use of geotextiles is appropriate when the natural soil base is located in a swampy area and has high humidity. A layer of geotextile is placed above the natural soil base.
The next layer of our “pie” is screening on a geotextile base.
Oleg Novitsky
We fill the area with screenings (or sand). The screening layer must be at least 10 cm. This layer must be compacted very carefully. At this stage, it is necessary to precisely level the entire foundation for laying using a rule or other tool.
The dropout rate is not very good property– caking. This means that over time the base becomes almost monolithic, and then, due to its low strength, it cracks, and cracks and cavities form in the coating. To avoid such a nuisance, use a vibrating tool for compaction and tamping and do not carry out work in rainy weather. The best screening for such work is dry.
We then proceed to create the foundation level using the following algorithm:
- The boundaries and center lines of the site are marked with a rope;
- Loose sand can be leveled just below the edges of the curb;
- We compact the resulting pillow with a vibrating plate.
Oleg Novitsky
An electric or gasoline vibrating rammer with a rubber sole is well suited for compacting the sand layer. With its help, you can not only qualitatively prepare a gravel-sand cushion, but also avoid further subsidence and collapse of the soil under the laid tiles.
Alexander Loginov
It must be remembered that all layers of the base are poured, leveled and compacted, taking into account a 0.5% slope!
Completes preparatory stage filling with river sand or cement-sand mixture. To do this, a layer of clay-free clay is poured onto the base. river sand 1-2 cm thick without compaction, the layer should be loose.
CPS (cement-sand mixture) is taken in a ratio of 1:8-1:10, because cement is needed to bind the sand so that it can be washed away by water.
Alexander Mishin
The use of a cement-sand mixture as a “bed” is justified only in cases where heavy vehicle traffic is expected on the surface of the tile. The garage and pedestrian zone of a private house do not belong here, because the movement and load here are not so intense.
Laying paving slabs
In order for the garden path to be durable and for the tiles to lie flat on it, the gardener must also divide its installation into several successive stages. 
Laying begins:
- from the bottom point;
- from optically important boundaries;
- from conspicuous elements: porch, front entrance to the house;
- manual laying of tiles is done diagonally in the direction “away from you”, so as not to disturb the prepared top layer.
Before laying the first row of tiles, in order to maintain the exact location of the seams, it is necessary to pull the cord over the entire length and width of the object. After this, holding the cord, proceed with installation.
It is recommended to check the location and straightness of the seams every three rows of laid paving slabs. Laying is done using a rubber hammer (mallet) with light blows on the tiles. Every 3-5 square meters of laid but not yet compacted paving slabs, its surface is controlled using a two-meter rule or a building level.
Alexander Loginov
As a frame for paths on suburban area Curb stones should be used. These guards must be made before laying the outer part of the path to prevent lateral displacement and settlement of the tiles.
Along the edges of the marked area of the path, using a stretched cord, dig a trench of small size and depth (so that the curb enters this trench to the required level). The base of the trench must be compacted, backfilled, and the curb installed on concrete.
The border can be visible or hidden - it depends on the desire. If the border is hidden, then it must be placed so that the top of the tile exceeds the top of the border by the height of the chamfer.
Oleg Novitsky
To reduce the number of tiles to cut, start the longest row at the curb, laying entire tiles directly towards it. The resulting voids should be exactly half the tile. By cutting from one whole you will get two halves you need, and I think waste can be completely avoided. This technique can be used for figured symmetrical tiles.
The main enemy of any paving slab is freezing water. Therefore, you cannot lay tiles on monolithic, waterproof substrates, concrete screed. On outdoors It is prohibited to lay tiles on the mortar.
Sealing and vibrating ramming
After laying out the tiles, the coating is compacted with a vibrating plate. After the first vibration compaction of the coating, dry sifted clean sand so that the sand is easily and densely poured into the cracks between the tiles. The scattered sand is spread evenly with a brush over the entire area and hammered into the seams, “tying” the entire coating into a single whole.
And in order to build a durable coating, when working you must adhere to the following recommendations:
- Do not lay tiles in rainy weather without a special canopy.
- Do not fill the joints with a mixture of sand and cement.
- If the area has “complex”, heaving soil, it must be taken into account that its displacement can deform the tile. Then a more complex installation is performed - with step-by-step preparation concrete pad as a base, which guarantees durability.
Thus, when self-installation Garden paths need to take into account every little detail and carefully plan all stages of work. After all, the path to your home begins with a garden path made!