Basically, the painting technology repeats that described on the previous page, but with some features. Before painting, the walls must be very well leveled - the paint will show all the defects of the walls. For not very smooth surfaces it is better to use matte paints and coats of rollers with long pile. This roller gives a coarse-grained, rough paint structure, which, in combination with a matte color, makes wall unevenness less noticeable. An absolutely flat surface can be painted with glossy paints and velor rollers - you will get a beautiful glossy wall paint. By combining different roller coats (with long, medium or short pile) and different degrees of paint gloss, they achieve different quality of paint, which partially hides wall defects or, on the contrary, emphasizes its evenness.
Cleared from old paint or the new base is checked for its ability to stain (Fig. 93). The bearing capacity of the base can be checked with a block soft wood, for example, from Christmas tree or pine. If traces of wood shavings remain on the base, then it is suitable for painting. The base also has sufficient bearing capacity for painting, as long as it doesn't crumble when you run your fingernail over it. All substrates must be clean, dry, and free of dust. It is recommended to clean the surface first with a dry brush and then with a brush soaked in water.
Rice. 115. Checking the wall for readiness for painting
Run your hand along the wall. If the base wears easily, gets dusty, or if your hand becomes stained White color, which means it is chalky. It is necessary to check the wall surface for lime paint. Apply a small amount of vinegar to the wall. If bubbles form, this indicates the presence of lime whitewash, which must be completely removed with a brush. All other walls can be painted after applying primer.
Before painting, the wall surface must be completely plastered with one putty mixture. Stains that vary in color depending on application different types putties may not be “covered” even with well-covering paint even after 5-6 paintings. Spotted color may also appear as a result of uneven puttying. The pits will be visible in oblique rays of light. In addition, in the pits the layer of paint may turn out to be thicker than on the surface of the wall, and then a spot of a more saturated color is formed here; such spots are visible not only in oblique, but also in direct rays of light.
1. Lighting installation.
For getting High Quality coloring you need to be able to clearly see what you are doing. An energy-saving white lamp with a power of 15 W is used. Unlike incandescent lamps, it is safer and does not heat up the socket. The lamp, preferably with a lampshade, is attached to a temporary wooden tripod, placed near the wall, and moved as needed. Oblique lighting, almost parallel to the wall, will show all the unevenness of the base; it will not be too late to putty them, and when priming and painting with this lighting, unpainted areas will be visible.
2. Preparing the wall surface for painting.
After the lighting has been set, defects have been identified and uneven surfaces have been puttyed, allow 12 to 24 hours for the newly applied putty to dry. Then the entire surface of the wall (or only the puttyed areas, if sanding was carried out earlier) is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper (“zero”). The skin is attached to a small piece of flat board with rolled edges or to special tool and sequentially, meter by meter, they sand the wall. Then the wall needs to be dusted - vacuumed through the hair brush of a vacuum cleaner or at least swept with a clean broom. This phase is often skipped, but in vain, the paint (or primer) does not adhere well to the dusty surface. Use a damp sponge to test the wall's absorbency. If water is absorbed, the wall surface must be primed.
3. Priming.
The primer you need to use is the primer recommended by the paint manufacturer; its name is written on the paint can. If the manufacturer allows priming with the same paint as painting, then the paint should be diluted exactly in the proportion that is recommended - add exactly as much water to the paint as indicated on the can, no more and no less.
Pour the paint (primer) into a clean bucket. Add water (if recommended) and mix with a mixer. Use a round brush or a medium flange brush to paint the perimeter of the wall. Paint around the heating pipes with a brush. In general, you need to prime all the places with a brush that cannot be reached with a roller. After which the wall is primed with a roller.
When triple painting (primer and two coats of paint), start from any of the window-side corners and work your way to the adjacent wall. The wall is primed with strips 700–1000 mm wide. Having primed the first strip from the corner, start another. The priming of the wall, as well as subsequent painting, should be carried out quickly, without interruptions - 10–15 minutes and the wall is ready. When painting, the “wet edge” rule must be observed, that is, the next strip must overlap the previous one over the wet layer (paint that has not yet dried). The overlap width is approximately 100 mm. If you lack skill, it is better to prime (and paint) two people together. One works with a brush along the perimeter of the walls, the other immediately rolls up the surface of the wall with a roller.
Slowness in work leads to the beginning of polymerization (setting) of the paint on the wall, then when the second strip overlaps, the roller either “lifts” (tears off from the base) the previous layer, or lays on top and the paint film thickens - after drying, dark spots will appear. It's like two sheets of white paper different thicknesses, individually both are white and the same color, but when you put them together, one is darker than the other. Avoid interruptions in work, but there is no need to rush either.
If you primed with diluted paint, wring out the brushes and roller after work, wrap them in a damp rag and tie them in two cellophane package. If you used a commercial primer, wash your brushes and roller coat first.
4. Painting the wall.
Follow the recommendations on the can and give the primer the drying time recommended by the manufacturer. Each new layer of paint should be applied only after the previous layer has completely dried. During long breaks in work, the wall must be free of dust. It is usually best to prime the wall in the evening so you can apply the paint in the morning. For a good opaque paint, two layers of paint (primer + paint) are enough; for cheaper paint, three layers are done (primer + two layers of paint).
Basically, the technology for painting walls is no different from painting wallpaper (Fig. 116). Except that painting wallpaper can be done without additional lighting, and painting walls using putty is best done with lighting. There is one very important point. The painter looks at the wall directly in front of him, along the lines of painting, he does not notice weakly painted and, most importantly, missed places on the surface of the wall, he does not see the place where he “walked” with a roller once, and where several. For him, the surface has acquired a uniform wet shade and it seems that everything is painted the same way. While the wall is wet, everything looks fine, but after drying, spots will appear. This is where an energy-saving lamp mounted on a tripod near the wall will help. The lamp must be installed on the side of the paint strip and then unpainted areas become visible. Experienced painters step aside from time to time and look at the painted strip of the wall from the side, identifying unpainted areas.
Rice. 116. Painting walls with a roller The third layer (if any) is applied only after the second layer has dried. After painting each layer, strain the paint remaining in the tray through a nylon cloth (women's tights) and pour it back into the jar. Close the jar tightly. To store paint for a long time, turn the jar upside down for a few seconds, then the paint itself will seal any leaks in the lid.
5. If spots appear on the wall after the paint layer has dried, then under no circumstances try to paint over them with thick paint - it will not help. Resign yourself and leave it as is, or try to make another layer over the entire surface of the wall, more liquid paint. If stains remain after this, all further work in terms of painting it is useless and only leads to waste of material. The work needs to be redone. You can try to fix the defect by sanding the entire wall with fine sand. sandpaper on a block or on a grater. Just be sure to do it all over, otherwise after re-painting the stains will appear again. If you remove stains after the first or second coat of paint, the result will be better. And if you overlooked it and left many layers, then simply sanding the wall will not help - you will have to putty and sand the wall again, and paint it, of course.
Repairs are rarely completed without puttying and priming the surface of the walls. This type of work is carried out on final stage to obtain a smooth and even surface. In addition to a smooth surface, plastered walls have a number of advantages, including a neat appearance and easier further work. When doing the work yourself, it is important to know how to putty walls to obtain a flat and smooth surface for painting or wallpapering. Puttying walls with your own hands is a fairly simple type of work; the main thing is to understand what needs to be done, follow the procedure and be able to handle the tool.
Wall finishing work can be divided into three main stages. The first stage is surface preparation. It consists of removing old coating, cracked putty and plaster. At the second stage we carry out rough finishing wall surfaces. This includes reinforcement, leveling and puttying. The final third stage comes down to wallpapering, painting or another method of finishing the walls. Many are accustomed to performing only the first and final stage, completely losing sight of the rough finish. This small omission will have a negative impact on appearance walls and general impression from repairs. The need to perform work such as leveling walls, puttingtying walls for wallpaper or puttingtying walls for painting becomes obvious only at the final stage of work, when nothing can be changed.
Video: puttying walls under wallpaper
The obvious advantages of wall putty are a smooth surface, smoothing out plaster sagging, small depressions and cracks. In addition, plastered walls have a uniform surface on which any finishing materials will fit perfectly.
As for leveling the surface, with this type of work everything is somewhat more complicated. The fact is that leveling has an aesthetic load, while putty has a technical one. And the answer to the question of whether to do leveling depends on financial capabilities and the desire to see symmetrical corners of the premises.
Methods of puttying walls
For quality repairs it is necessary to perform a puttying procedure on surfaces before final finishing. To know how to properly putty walls, you should first understand the methods of puttying. There are the following methods: starting putty, lighthouse putty, finishing putty and putty for cracks. Each of these methods is done various types putty and is used for certain purposes. Before you putty the walls for painting or wallpaper, you should do the starting putty and level the walls.
Starting surface putty
Starting puttying of the wall is an important stage, the quality of which determines the amount of subsequent work.
For starting putty, putty-plasters based on gypsum mixed with various additives are used. Starting putty is carried out to level the walls, seal grooves and holes. The layer thickness can reach up to 15 mm. At large thickness Putty-plaster should be applied in alternating layers. Each new layer is applied with pauses for the previous one to dry. For high-quality application starting putty-plaster use a painting mesh. With its help, the material has better adhesion to the surface, the possibility of cracks practically disappears, and the surface itself is more even.
Important! To make the surface as smooth and even as possible, use a coarse painting mesh.
Method using beacons
Light wall putty allows you to simultaneously eliminate surface defects
Performing this puttying method requires the same materials as the starting putty. Used for leveling walls, sealing grooves and holes. Before plastering the walls with lighthouse putty, beacons are installed, which are made of wooden, plaster or metal slats. The lighthouse is set in a vertical and horizontal plane to a level and filled with putty-plaster. Thanks to this, the surface is perfectly flat and vertical.
Important! Mayachnaya putty is an order of magnitude more expensive than putty using a painting mesh, but is visually no different.
Surface finishing
This puttying method is also called “sandless”. Putty is applied to the beacon or starting surface to give the surface a perfectly smooth and even appearance. The result is a surface without pores or cracks. The finishing putty is applied thin layer and completely repeats the plane of the previously applied starting putty.
Important! Finishing putty is designed to make the surface smooth. It cannot be used for leveling, since the layer of finishing putty is no more than 1.5 mm.
Demonstrating how to properly putty walls, the video clarifies the technology for applying finishing putty.
Putty on walls with cracks
This method is used when it is necessary to locally “patch up” the wall surface. You can putty cracks with a simple spatula. Gypsum and alabaster mixtures can be used as materials, but the best material satengypsum is used for this type of putty. Before you start filling cracks, you should increase the width and depth of the crack itself. This is done for better adhesion of the putty. To do this, run a sharp corner of a spatula or a knife along the crack itself. Next, apply a deep penetration primer and let it dry. Now apply the putty itself using a spatula and let it dry.
Important! Working with alabaster and plaster is more difficult because they do not have sufficient elasticity. The advantage of these materials is their drying speed - about 10-15 minutes. Satengypsum is more elastic, but has a longer drying time.
Selection of materials and tools
To perform the work you will need the following tool:
- small spatula 10-15 cm;
- large spatula 25-30 cm;
- corner spatula;
— drill and insert mixer;
- sandpaper;
- brush and roller;
- clean container for 15-25 liters.
Wall Sanding Tool Set
With materials the situation is somewhat more complicated. The market for putties offers a huge selection, ranging from simple and cheap drying oil-based putties to expensive, pre-prepared putties. For those who have a limited budget or want to save money, you can opt for dry putties.
They are cheaper and enough good quality. To apply the starting layer, use coarse putty; for the last layer, use finishing putty. There are a number of universal putties, but for the quality of work and savings it is worth choosing according to the method of their application.
Important! A serious drawback of dry putties is their poor resistance to moisture. At high humidity they become soft again. To be safe from this phenomenon, it is better to immediately choose moisture-resistant putties.
To ensure that putty and other finishing materials adhere well, the surface is primed. The applied layer of primer will fix and preserve the surface from minor damage. In addition, the primer promotes better absorption (absorption) and adhesion to the base surface of plaster, paint, wallpaper glue and putty. When choosing a primer, you should pay attention to the type of surface on which the primer will be applied. Primers with a high degree of penetration are applied to highly porous and loose surfaces, universal primers are applied to medium-porous surfaces. We apply a primer with high adhesive properties to a low-porosity, dense surface. For high-quality coupling finishing materials You should use specialized primers for a specific type of surface.
It is more convenient and faster to prime the surface using a roller
Important! For priming surfaces in rooms with high humidity special waterproofing primers should be used. These primers are applied in two layers.
How to putty walls: stages of work
1. Treat the surface with a primer. To do this we use a roller. Hard to reach places, prime the corners and joints with a brush. We wait for it to dry completely.
2. If necessary, level the walls using plaster or starting putty. After drying, prime again.
3. If we use dry putty, we will have to prepare it. To do this, pour a small amount of water into the container and add putty. First, mix with a spatula, and then use a drill with a mixer. Add water gradually.
Mixing solutions is carried out in strict accordance with the instructions of the material manufacturer
Important! The readiness of the putty is determined by its consistency. In the video demonstrating how to putty walls, you can see how it should be: elastic and slightly stick to the surface of the spatula. If the putty runs off, then it is runny and you should add a dry mixture. If it’s lumpy, then on the contrary, it’s dry.
4. Apply starting putty. To do this, use a large spatula. Apply the putty in medium portions and distribute evenly over the surface of the wall. We hold the spatula at an angle of 25-30 degrees and apply the putty in one diagonal motion. To avoid bumps and transitions, we apply each subsequent layer with an overlap.
Important! When applying the starting layer, the putty should be mixed in small portions for quick development. This is done to ensure that dry particles do not appear in the mixed mixture, which could affect the quality of work. Do not be afraid of the appearance of stripes from the spatula; they will be smoothed out with finishing putty.
5. For even corners We use a special angled spatula. First, using a small spatula, apply a small layer of putty to the entire height of the corner or slope, and then level it with a corner spatula. Let it dry well overnight.
Puttying corners and slopes with a special corner spatula guarantees the formation of perfectly even corners
6. After the starting putty has completely dried, you can proceed to the finishing putty. Apply the putty in small portions onto a large spatula using a small one. Then apply evenly to the surface. The thickness of the finishing putty layer should be from 1.5 to 2 mm.
7. Before you putty the walls for wallpaper or painting, you should wait until the starting putty and the first layer of finishing have completely dried. After 12 hours, the first layer of finishing putty will dry, and the surface can be prepared for the final stage of puttying. To do this we apply finishing layer, wait for it to dry. Now it can be sanded using a special holder and sandpaper.
Important! Before applying each new layer of putty, it is advisable to treat the previous one with a primer.
Puttying walls for painting differs from puttying walls for wallpaper in the quality of the final sanding of the surface. For wallpaper, a perfectly smooth surface is not so important. The wallpaper itself will partially hide the roughness. But for paint this is critical, especially if you use enamel. Therefore, for sanding walls under wallpaper will do sandpaper with a grain from P80 to P120, and before painting the wall you should sand it with sandpaper with a grain from P120 to P150.
Puttying walls is not so much difficult as labor-intensive process, requiring a lot of time. All work requires special attention, but the result will delight you with its grace and perfection.
If you need to putty on walls that are painted, then there is no point in completely cleaning the surface. Firstly, this is extra labor, and secondly, additional dirt in the house. Let's see if it is possible to apply putty directly to paint and, if so, how to do it correctly.
Acrylic paint
The most common option is a wall painted with acrylic paint. As a rule, such a cake consists of putty, cobwebs, another layer of putty mixture and two layers of acrylic. Please note that most putties have acrylic base, from here many conclude that a fresh layer of the mixture can be applied to the wall immediately, without preparing the surface. This is mistake #1.
The problem is that the painted wall absorbs moisture well, so a fresh layer of the mixture will dry quickly and will not adhere to the surface. Our task is to reduce the absorption of the wall. For this, primer Condor, Ceresit and analogues are used. The operating algorithm is as follows:
- Testing acrylic for strength
- Apply 1-2 layers of primer,
- Apply putty.
If the old paint does not adhere well, then the wall will have to be cleaned with a spatula or abrasive. It’s easy to check the quality of the paint - make a cut on the wall with the angle of a metal spatula, if the paint does not start to crumble, then feel free to prime the wall and putty. If the acrylic crumbles, then there is an extra step in the work:
- Old acrylic is cleaned off,
- The wall is primed
- Apply a new layer of putty.
The optimal way to clean the wall is to use a metal spatula from 20 cm - it removes paint on all problem areas. In those places where the composition holds well, there is no point in removing it!
The primer is applied with a roller in 1-2 layers. The number of layers depends on the absorption of the wall. Apply the first layer, wait 4-6 hours and check the absorption of the wall; if it still absorbs moisture well, then prime twice.
The putty is applied 6-12 hours after applying the last coat of primer.
Enamel
Not so often, but sometimes it becomes necessary to putty the enamel. The algorithm differs little from applying the mixture to acrylic paint. First, check how well the enamel adheres with the corner of a spatula (screwdriver or nail). If there are no problems, then apply 1 layer of primer and feel free to putty the wall. If the paint peels off, remove it in problem areas, prime the surface in two layers and apply the putty mixture.
A reasonable question: why use primer on enamel? It will create a film on the surface, thanks to which the putty will adhere better and dry evenly. Don't forget that enamel does not allow water to pass through, so absorption near the wall is minimal. IN in this case This is a minus, since the putty mixture will take a long time to dry and it is not a fact that it will stick to the wall everywhere. The soil will get rid of these hemorrhoids.
Table with work algorithm
After applying the putty, all you have to do is wait for it to dry, clean the wall (for wallpaper without fanaticism, for painting “like a mirror”) and prime the surface.
Questions and answers
Is it necessary to prime the paint before applying putty?
Yes, otherwise you simply won’t apply the mixture to the wall - it won’t cling to the base. Plus, without a primer, the putty can then peel off, so don’t waste half an hour and a couple of liters of primer.
What putty should I use for painting the walls?
The same as for a regular, unpainted wall. We recommend the Acrylic Puts mixture - it has good adhesion, is snow-white in color and does not crack after drying. Yes, the technology is also identical - one layer is enough for wallpaper starting putty, before painting, first apply the start, then the finish, sand, prime and re-paint the base.
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 5 minutes
Many construction works are inextricably linked with this type of finishing such as putty coating. And if it comes to a new building or room, then often there is already a layer of paint on its walls. Then a logical question arises: is it possible to apply putty to paint? The answer depends on what type of paint you are dealing with.
How to determine the type of paint on the walls
To determine the type of paint applied to the surface, carry out a simple test - soak it with a sponge soaked warm water. If it becomes covered with foam and begins to wash off, then it is water-based paint; when applying putty under the influence of moisture, it will definitely come off in layers.
If the color coating does not come off after moistening, it means that it is enamel based on drying oil or other non-aqueous solvents. Putty on oil paint is possible after appropriate preparation, if, of course, the painted layer adheres well. To check this, scratch the surface with a metal spatula in several places. If the paint comes off in layers and falls off, it should be cleaned off.
Ways to remove paint from a wall
Removal of the painted layer is distinguished by chemical, thermal and mechanical methods. The first method involves the use of special compounds that soften the enamel to such an extent that it can be easily removed with a spatula. This method is inconvenient only because the product consists of toxic solvents, that is, they can only be used in a room with good ventilation. By the way, a household replacement for such a product can, in extreme cases, be a solvent.
Effectiveness thermal method due to the property of the old paint layer to soften when heated. The paintwork is heated with a hair dryer or a soldering iron, after which the paint begins to bubble and melt, and is then removed with a spatula.
Tip: if you don’t have a hair dryer, you can use blowtorch, however, this is much more dangerous and requires strict adherence to safety measures.
Mechanical methods can be varied and quite unusual. You need to start by simply scraping off the paint layer with a spatula. Of course, this work is labor-intensive and highly dusty in the air, therefore, if the coating does not come off over the entire area, but only in selected places, it’s better to clean them out. The rest.
If the layer adheres too firmly to the surface, use a metal brush and scratch the coating with it - this will help increase adhesion before filling. Another option is if there are no voids under the paint coating, make notches with a sharp object (say, an ax) (the main thing is that their depth reaches the surface under the paint).
This promotes better adhesion of the solution to the surface when puttingty is applied to paint. For the same purpose, stripping the paint with coarse sandpaper is used. manual method or using .
Advice: after such treatment, be sure to wipe off the resulting dust layer from the surface.
What to do if the paint cannot be removed
If it is not possible to remove the paint, use a special primer, which contains microscopic particles, which improve the adhesion of the base to the putty. Such particles are often used quartz sand, the liquid component of the product has the ability to penetrate deeply into the layer of paintwork, simultaneously connecting with it. A similar primer designed to cover smooth surfaces is called “Concrete Contact”. Its main purpose is to provide smooth plane roughness that will facilitate the application of putty.
If there are cracks in the coating, they are “expanded” with a spatula, that is, the peeling paint, as well as the plaster underneath, are removed until the coating is durable. During the process, large recesses may form; they need to be leveled with putty over the paint layer, and then, after preliminary priming, begin leveling the entire surface, which will greatly facilitate the work. It is especially necessary if the future plaster layer on the walls exceeds 10 mm.
- If the wall deviates significantly from the level or there are serious defects, the surface is first leveled with starting putty, which has a coarse-grained structure;
- Putty on treated paint will adhere more firmly if it is applied in several layers, the thickness of which is up to 2 mm. Each subsequent layer can be applied after the previous one has completely dried;
- After all layers have completely dried, the surface is cleaned with sandpaper or a special mesh so that sagging and traces of a spatula can be removed.
After this, it is applied according to the same principle. After the last layer has dried, it is also sanded to a perfectly smooth surface. This operation is especially relevant if painting is to be done.
As for the technology of applying plaster, first a small part of the solution is sprayed so that it is formed solid foundation. When this base has dried, proceed to the main leveling procedure using a plaster rule or trowels.
At the final stage, a primer is applied to the walls. After this, you can paint them or.
Walls or ceilings often require additional leveling during renovation. Since the surface may be painted, before applying putty it is better to ask whether it is possible to putty over the paint or whether you should make an effort and remove it. A fair question arises: will the putty stick?
The first thing that is recommended to do is find out what type of paint was used to paint the surface. You need to moisten it with warm water using a sponge. If the reaction to water is such that the paint begins to wash off and create foam, then it is a water-based emulsion. It is not recommended to leave it under the putty, because due to the moisture that it draws from it, the painted layer will begin to peel off from the wall, taking the leveling solution with it.
To rid the walls and ceiling of it, you need to moisten them with a spray bottle or a sponge, leave for a quarter of an hour, and then use a spatula, easily removing the excess. After which the surface should be wiped with a damp cloth and allowed to dry.
The paint may not react to water, as was the case with the water-based emulsion. This means that enamel using drying oil or another non-aqueous solvent was applied to the surface you are examining. You can putty over this paint without applying preliminary preparation, if upon closer inspection it is clear that it adheres well to the wall.
This can be checked without much difficulty. You need to take a metal spatula and try to scratch the paint, and then run the flat of the spatula along the part of the wall where the “grooves” were applied. If peeling is noticed, the paint will have to be removed.
Methods for removing oil paint
Paint can be removed mechanically, chemically and thermally. Let's look at them in more detail.
1. Paintwork tends to soften during heating, so one of effective ways its removal is thermal. To do this, you need to heat the paint using construction hair dryer, and then remove it with a spatula.
2. Enamel can also be affected chemically. Applying special compounds, with the help of which it would be possible to soften the enamel layer so much that it could easily be moved by the movements of the spatula. It should be noted that such compositions differ high level toxicity, therefore it is recommended to use them in rooms that can be easily ventilated.
3. The most labor-intensive and dusty method is mechanical. The paint is removed using a sanding machine or a regular spatula. Therefore, if paint is applied only in some places, you can clean exactly those segments, and try to carefully treat the rest of the surface with a primer.
Prime the surface
In order for the surface to be well prepared for “meetings” with putty, it must be treated with a primer that contains small particles. With their help, the putty will better adhere to the base. The role of such particles is usually quartz sand. The liquid primer base is able to penetrate the paint well.
Among such primers, Concrete Contact stands out. It is used to treat smooth surfaces. For example, such a primer is suitable for tiles. After applying the primer, the smooth surface will become rough, and this will increase the putty's chances of strength.
There are other ways you can roughen up a wall. For example, notches similar to a mesh are made on the surface of the paint with any sharp object, or the paint is cleaned using coarse sandpaper, which is operated by hand. You can also take a drill with an attachment. This approach is labor-intensive, but can help save on primer.
You can also find on sale other types of soil for such treatment, similar to “concrete contact”. So if, for example, you couldn’t find “concrete contact” for sale, then don’t be upset, not everything is lost, and this doesn’t mean that you will now have to sand the old paint with a grinder, or cut notches into the paint with a hammer or a construction hatchet. Just explain your problem to the sales consultant, and he will definitely help you solve it quickly.
We putty the surface
- The puttying process can be divided into two stages. The first step is to check the surface for cracks. If such appear, they should be embroidered with a spatula, removing the peeling paint (as well as the plaster underneath) to a solid base. As a result of such actions, large unevenness can often result. They should be leveled with putty, gradually applying several layers.
- During the second stage, the entire wall panel is directly leveled. Using a wide spatula, apply the putty in several layers, each of them should not be thicker than a few millimeters.
In principle, this is almost everything you need to know when putting putty on wall paint. The main thing here is to correctly understand how to do everything correctly, and, of course, do not be lazy to try, or, as they say, experiment with your strengths. If you follow the technology of preparing the surface and applying putty, you will certainly achieve excellent results.
The process of removing the old coating scares off quite a few people, therefore, is it possible to apply putty to paint? This is an exciting question and quite natural for people who carry out repairs on their own, with their own hands. In particular, if these people are not entirely experienced repairmen.
The price of the issue, as a rule, is saved time and nerves, since dismantling previous coatings is one of the most labor-intensive actions associated with interior decoration walls or ceilings. And with regards to the exterior, there is not always the opportunity or desire to cover a room with materials that do not require the removal of old coatings. So the issue of removing paint also becomes very relevant in this case.
Is it possible to apply putty over paint?, it is necessary to decide, as a rule, only after clear clarification of what exactly the surface being repaired was painted with. The second point that influences the decision is what condition the painted wall is in, what is the degree of wear of the previous coating.
We will try to tell you what criteria exist to determine the possibility of puttying paint, what nuances may arise in connection with certain chosen methods. We hope that these tips will help you make the right decision so that the new coating you choose will last as long as possible afterwards.
Studying the type of paint
For putty, only water-based emulsion is strictly prohibited. This is due to its hygroscopicity: old paint will draw water from the putty composition, thus violating the integrity of the composition and gradually destroying it.
As a result the plaster will either not stick at all (which can be detected immediately and appropriate measures taken), or will fall off the wall in the very near future (which is the worst possible scenario: you have made considerable efforts finishing the surfaces, but after a short period of time they again require repair and additional investments).
- It is clear that a person does not always remember or know what the walls are painted with.
Is it possible to putty over paint, and if so, how?
Firstly, they could have been painted by the previous owners of the apartment, from whom you no longer ask about the type of paint. Secondly, no one keeps empty cans as souvenirs, and 5 years after the previous repair, its details fly out of your head. Therefore, first a simple check is done to determine the type of paint.
- A small area of the painted wall is wetted with warm water. You can simply spray it, or wipe it with a sponge.
- You have 5 minutes to wait and wet surface looks around.
If foam appears from the water, you have a water-based emulsion, and it will have to be removed. This shouldn't be too scary: it washes off quite easily. After soaking the wall, the softened coating is simply removed with a spatula. But remember one thing: if such a coating is discovered, it must be dismantled. Then you just have to wait until the surface dries, and you can start applying the putty itself.
Studying the wall
If during the test the paint does not begin to bubble, it means that it is based on drying oil or other compounds insoluble in water. In this case, the condition of the paint is carefully examined. It will have to be removed in the following cases:
- exfoliation. If the coating begins to peel off, the putty will not stick to it. You may not have to scrape the paint off the entire wall: if the tatters are fragmentary, it is enough to clean only these areas;
- swelling. Places where the paint has bubbled up are broken with a hammer and chisel and the coating is removed. If there are too many such deformations, you should think about completely removing the paint;
- high humidity. Here you will have to remove the paint over the entire surface in any case. A damp wall will not hold an additional layer of putty: it will fall off in pieces along with the old coating. Moreover, mold may begin to develop under the putty. In such a situation, you will have to not only dismantle the coating to the very base, but also treat the slab with antiseptic compounds.
If there is so much global problems you will have to look for a way to completely remove the paint. If no serious external defects are found, you need to check how firmly the paint adheres to the wall. To do this, just run the corner of the spatula across the surface to create a scratch, and try to pick up the coating with the flat side. If it does not begin to crumble, you can safely putty over the paint.
Getting ready for puttying
To immediately take up a spatula is to transfer building materials in vain. Some preparations should still precede the putty work.
- Small peelings and defects are sanded and cleaned. If cracks are found, they are expanded and cleaned until concrete base, after which they are sealed. Further manipulations are postponed until the puttyed defects have dried. If the recesses are large in area, a plaster mesh is used for puttying.
- The wall can be washed with any dish soap. During use, dust and dirt have settled on it. This stage is especially important for the kitchen, where grease from cooking food settles on surfaces.
- To increase the degree of adhesion, the roughness of the wall increases. You can achieve results in different ways. First, sand the paint with rough sandpaper. Secondly, making cross-shaped notches over the entire surface is the favorite and most reliable way, used by professional plasterers.
- Next, the surface is primed.
You need to choose compounds specifically designed for paint putty. Particularly good results are obtained with a quartz primer containing small particles and having deep penetration. However, it is quite expensive, so you may have to look for more affordable options.
- The primer is repeated twice. The second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried.
There is some doubt Oil paint. It has very poor adhesion to all materials, and is also the most difficult to remove from surfaces. To strengthen its adhesion to the putty, the notches are made deeper and more frequent, and before priming the wall is treated with “Concrete Contact”.
Eventually, in a certain number of cases the question of whether putty can be applied to paint may receive a positive answer. After a thorough examination and with some preparation, this is quite acceptable. But professional repairmen still insist on complete dismantling: everything Finishing work give better results on cleaned surfaces.
Putty on paint
Often, when renovating existing premises, it becomes necessary to putty the surfaces of walls and ceilings. If the previously applied coating adheres well, it does not have to be removed. Knowing how the surfaces were previously coated makes it easier to select a new compatible paint to avoid swelling and delamination of previous layers. High-quality paint putty smoothes surface defects without removing the old composition over the entire surface of the walls.
When puttying dry rooms, remove old peeling paint. To remove stains of grease and dirt, wash the walls with an alkaline solution. It could be a soap composition. For better adhesion of the putty, the paint is sanded and dust is removed. Then the surface is primed. By treating partially puttied walls with a primer, we achieve uniform porosity of various surfaces and better adhesion of finishing paint. In damp rooms, moisture-resistant paint and putty are used.
After stripping the old paint, leveling the base and cracks with putty, apply a primer. There is a sufficient selection of primers for old paint on the construction market. They are intended for treating surfaces (stone, brick, plaster, concrete) previously painted with oil, NC, PF and similar paints and varnishes. The primer creates a layer on the surface of a previously applied coating that improves the adhesion of newly coated materials. After puttingty on paint has been carried out in compliance with the technology, further work on surface finishing is possible: wallpapering, subsequent painting, laying tiles and other decoration.
After priming it becomes possible high-quality coating water-dispersion paints on previously painted surfaces. The primer does not require preliminary finishing; after drying it creates a matte, even base.
Is it possible to putty over paint? Will the putty stick to the paint?
Dear specialists and victims of a similar problem, save us!!! It all started on that ill-fated day when I started renovations.
The ceiling, which had been cleared down to concrete, was primed and painted with water-based paint twice at intervals; the paint applied poorly (stripes). There were no visible irregularities (scratches) on the ceiling itself. I tried painting it over water-based paint with semi-matte acrylic paint. The paint has set tightly, but the surface has become glossy and all the roughness is “clear in the palm of your hand.” I can’t imagine what can be done about this now?! It’s almost impossible to clean... I wanted to paste it over PVC tiles or non-woven ceiling wallpaper or, maybe, prime, putty and paint with acrylic matte paint, but I read “horror stories” about this on the Internet and was completely confused...
Maybe someone can tell me what to do? Thank you in advance!
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Is it possible to putty over oil paint?
Many people ask this question before renovating. Since once upon a time, most apartments had walls painted with paint. This way the walls became resistant to moisture and did not get dirty. It was called panels, and at the time it was pretty good. But times have changed along with the materials for wall finishing, and before renovating everyone asks the question, is it possible to putty over paint? Now I will try to answer this question for you.
Is it possible or not?
You cannot immediately putty on enamel paint without preparing the surface. This is due to the fact that it is smooth and putty will not stick well to it. Even if you prime the walls with a deep penetrating primer, it won't do anything for you.
There are two ways out of this situation. One of them is the complete removal of paint from the wall surface. And the second thing is to properly prepare the surface for puttying the walls. And we’ll look at these two approaches to paint putty further.
How to remove paint from a wall.
There are several ways to remove paint from walls: chemical, thermal and mechanical removal. Below I will tell you about each in detail.
The chemical method involves applying liquid to the wall with a roller or brush. And after a while you can scrape off the paint from the surface with a spatula or a special scraper. I would like to note that this method is quite toxic. Therefore, when working with chemicals, you must adhere to safety rules.
During chemical removal it's quite high in the air bad smell. Even a few days after work I can hear it. Therefore, it is not recommended for use in premises where people constantly live. On top of that, chemistry is expensive.
The most effective way Removing paint from walls is thermal. To remove it, use a special hairdryer, which heats the paint and blows it off. This paint is then removed with a spatula or scraper. But this also has its drawbacks. After such removal, the wall is still smooth. And you still need to sand it with sanding paper.
I always use mechanically removal. If the wall is concrete, this is in panel houses or monolithic, you can remove paint with a grinder with an attachment grinding wheel on concrete. With its help you can quickly remove paint from walls. But there will be a lot of gunpowder.
If the walls are plastered, you can knock off the paint along with top layer plaster with an axe. This is a pretty simple method, but it works.
Is it possible to putty over paint? Let’s putty correctly
True, it will take a lot of time.
Puttying walls without removing oil paint
You can putty walls without removing paint using two methods. First, I’ll tell you about the simplest and most reliable.
The first method is to make notches on the walls with an ax. Notches need to be made often. If they are 5 cm apart from each other, this will do nothing. After the notches, prime the surface with a deeply penetrating primer. Next we putty, but before that you need to stretch a painting mesh (fiberglass mesh) onto the walls. Stretch the painting mesh not with starting putty, but with drywall adhesive. It has better adhesion with smooth surfaces. This is also a reliable and proven method.
There is another proven method. This is the application of quartz primer or concrete contact to the walls before puttying. This is a primer containing quartz sand. Thanks to the sand, we will have good adhesion of the putty to the surface. In this case, I also recommend using drywall adhesive as the first layer of putty. But before priming, you need to make sure that the base is secure. There may be some oil paint leaking somewhere, check that.
I have personally experienced all these methods and want to advise you something. If you need to putty on walls where there is oil paint, then first try to remove it mechanically. Try it with an axe; if it doesn’t work and you have an angle grinder, buy a wheel for grinding concrete. It's a little expensive, but cheaper than a hair dryer. If you don’t have an angle grinder, buy a hair dryer.
But when you have a limited budget and don’t want to buy a tool, prime the walls with quartz primer and putty as I described above.
Painting putty walls
Basically, the painting technology repeats that described on the previous page, but with some features. Before painting, the walls must be very well leveled - the paint will show all the defects of the walls. For not very smooth surfaces, it is better to use matte paints and long-pile roller coats. This roller gives a coarse-grained, rough paint structure, which, in combination with a matte color, makes wall unevenness less noticeable. An absolutely flat surface can be painted with glossy paints and velor rollers - you will get a beautiful glossy wall paint. By combining different roller coats (with long, medium or short pile) and different degrees of paint gloss, they achieve different quality of paint, which partially hides wall defects or, on the contrary, emphasizes its evenness.
The base, cleared of old paint or a new base, is checked for its ability to be painted (Fig. 93). The load-bearing capacity of the base can be checked with a block of soft wood, for example, spruce or pine. If traces of wood shavings remain on the base, then it is suitable for painting. The base also has enough load-bearing capacity for painting as long as it doesn't crumble when you run your fingernail across it. All substrates must be clean, dry, and free of dust. It is recommended to clean the surface first with a dry brush and then with a brush soaked in water.
Run your hand along the wall. If the base wears easily, gets dusty, or if your hand turns white, it is chalky.
It is necessary to check the wall surface for the presence of lime paint.
In what cases, when, how and is it possible to apply putty to paint?
Apply a small amount of vinegar to the wall. If bubbles form, this indicates the presence of limescale, which must be completely removed with a brush. All other walls can be painted after applying primer.
Before painting, the wall surface must be completely plastered with one putty mixture. Spots that differ in color due to the use of different types of putties may not be “covered” even with well-covering paint even after 5–6 paintings. Spotted color may also appear as a result of uneven puttying. The pits will be visible in oblique rays of light. In addition, in the pits the layer of paint may turn out to be thicker than on the surface of the wall, and then a spot of a more saturated color is formed here; such spots are visible not only in oblique, but also in direct rays of light.
1. Lighting installation.
To achieve high quality painting, you need to be able to clearly see what you are doing. An energy-saving white lamp with a power of 15 W is used. Unlike incandescent lamps, it is safer and does not heat up the socket. The lamp, preferably with a lampshade, is attached to a temporary wooden tripod, placed near the wall, and moved as needed. Oblique lighting, almost parallel to the wall, will show all the unevenness of the base; it will not be too late to putty them, and when priming and painting with this lighting, unpainted areas will be visible.
2. Preparing the wall surface for painting.
After the lighting has been set, defects have been identified and uneven surfaces have been puttyed, allow 12 to 24 hours for the newly applied putty to dry. Then the entire surface of the wall (or only the puttyed areas, if sanding was carried out earlier) is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper (“zero”). The sandpaper is attached to a small piece of flat board with rolled edges or to a special tool and the wall is sanded meter by meter. Then the wall needs to be dusted - vacuumed through the hair brush of a vacuum cleaner or at least swept with a clean broom. This phase is often skipped, but in vain, the paint (or primer) does not adhere well to the dusty surface. Use a damp sponge to test the wall's absorbency. If water is absorbed, the wall surface must be primed.
3. Priming.
The primer you need to use is the primer recommended by the paint manufacturer; its name is written on the paint can. If the manufacturer allows priming with the same paint as painting, then the paint should be diluted exactly in the proportion that is recommended - add exactly as much water to the paint as indicated on the can, no more and no less.
Pour the paint (primer) into a clean bucket. Add water (if recommended) and mix with a mixer. Use a round brush or a medium flange brush to paint the perimeter of the wall. Paint around the heating pipes with a brush. In general, you need to prime all the places with a brush that cannot be reached with a roller. After which the wall is primed with a roller.
When triple painting (primer and two coats of paint), start from any of the window-side corners and work your way to the adjacent wall. The wall is primed with strips 700–1000 mm wide. Having primed the first strip from the corner, start another. The priming of the wall, as well as subsequent painting, should be carried out quickly, without interruptions - 10–15 minutes and the wall is ready. When painting, the “wet edge” rule must be observed, that is, the next strip must overlap the previous one over the wet layer (paint that has not yet dried). The overlap width is approximately 100 mm. If you lack skill, it is better to prime (and paint) two people together. One works with a brush along the perimeter of the walls, the other immediately rolls up the surface of the wall with a roller.
Slowness in work leads to the beginning of polymerization (setting) of the paint on the wall, then when the second strip overlaps, the roller either “lifts” (tears off from the base) the previous layer, or lays on top and the paint film thickens - after drying, dark spots will appear. It's like two sheets of white paper of different thicknesses, individually both are white and the same color, but when you put them together, one is darker than the other. Avoid interruptions in work, but there is no need to rush either.
If you primed with diluted paint, wring out the brushes and roller after work, wrap them in a damp rag and tie them in two plastic bags. If you used a commercial primer, wash your brushes and roller coat first.
4. Painting the wall.
Follow the recommendations on the can and give the primer the drying time recommended by the manufacturer. Each new layer of paint should be applied only after the previous layer has completely dried. During long breaks in work, the wall must be free of dust. It is usually best to prime the wall in the evening so you can apply the paint in the morning. For a good opaque paint, two layers of paint (primer + paint) are enough; for cheaper paint, three layers are done (primer + two layers of paint).
Basically, the technology for painting walls is no different from painting wallpaper (Fig. 116). Except that painting wallpaper can be done without additional lighting, and painting walls using putty is best done with lighting. There is one very important point here. The painter looks at the wall directly in front of him, along the lines of painting, he does not notice weakly painted and, most importantly, missed places on the surface of the wall, he does not see the place where he “walked” with a roller once, and where several. For him, the surface has acquired a uniform wet shade and it seems that everything is painted the same way. While the wall is wet, everything looks fine, but after drying, spots will appear. This is where an energy-saving lamp mounted on a tripod near the wall will help. The lamp must be installed on the side of the paint strip and then unpainted areas become visible. Experienced painters step aside from time to time and look at the painted strip of the wall from the side, identifying unpainted areas.
The third layer (if any) is applied only after the second layer has dried. After painting each layer, strain the paint remaining in the tray through a nylon cloth (women's tights) and pour it back into the jar. Close the jar tightly. To store paint for a long time, turn the jar upside down for a few seconds, then the paint itself will seal any leaks in the lid.
5. If spots appear on the wall after the paint layer has dried, then under no circumstances try to paint over them with thick paint - it will not help. Resign yourself and leave it as is, or try adding another layer of thinner paint over the entire surface of the wall. If stains remain after this, all further painting work is useless and only leads to waste of material. The work needs to be redone. You can try to correct the defect by sanding the entire wall with fine sandpaper on a block or grater. Just be sure to do it all over, otherwise after re-painting the stains will appear again. If you remove stains after the first or second coat of paint, the result will be better. And if you overlooked it and left many layers, then simply sanding the wall will not help - you will have to putty and sand the wall again, and paint it, of course.