Minimum slope of the site with paving slabs. Slope of paving slabs: useful recommendations

Pay attention to the paving slabs. This material has proven itself to be excellent, it is strong, durable, and beautiful. Now there are many types paving slabs and everyone will be able to choose the one that suits the facade of the house or just the one that just appeals to them. Laying paving slabs with your own hands may seem like a very difficult and troublesome task, but in fact everything is extremely simple. Paths in the garden can be paved with paving slabs in a weekend, but to cover a large yard it will take about two weeks and a helper.

Before you start laying, you need to understand the main types of paving slabs. The main types of paving slabs are stamped and vibrocast. It is better to opt for vibro-cast paving slabs, which will more than pay for the slightly higher cost with their beautiful appearance. appearance and durability.

The thickness of paving slabs may vary. Typically, the thickness of paving slabs varies between 20-60 mm. 20mm paving slabs are suitable for garden paths or areas that are guaranteed not to be driven by cars. In the yard, paving slabs with a thickness of 40-45 mm are most often laid. 60mm tiles are laid where multi-ton trucks will travel.

The tile pattern can be any, but beginners are not recommended to lay tiles such as “rhombus”, “brick” and “paving stones”. It is more difficult to lay such tiles; craftsmen charge more for working with them.

The color of the tile can also be almost any, but it is worth considering that colored tiles are more expensive than gray ones.
This article discusses the technology of laying paving slabs with your own hands.

Materials and tools for laying paving slabs

Sand. You will need quite a lot of sand (several tons), its quantity depends on the area of the yard, as well as the features of the landscape.
Paving slabs (quantity is calculated by the manufacturer based on quadrature).

Border
Cement

Strong elastic thread
Metal pegs
Hammer
Rubber hammer

Shovel
Long Rule
Two steel pipes about an inch in diameter
Tamping
Wheelbarrow
Level
Master OK
Buckets
Broom
Bulgarian woman with diamond blade for cutting concrete

Knee pads

Laying paving slabs with your own hands

Decide on the slope of the site. A slope of several degrees must be present, otherwise after rain there will be water in the yard. The slope is best done towards the street. If you decide to follow this advice, then the street level is taken as the zero point.

Along the zero line (the line towards which the site will be inclined), drive two metal pegs into the ground and stretch a thread between them. Check horizontality using a level. It is better to apply the level to the thread from below.

Tie another thread to one of the pegs and pull it perpendicular to the first. Tie the free end of the thread to a new peg and drive it into the ground so much that the second end is slightly above the zero line. This can be checked using a level (the angle of inclination should be several degrees).

Tie another thread to the last hammered peg at the same level as the previous one and pull it parallel to the zero line, check the horizontalness using a level. Tie the free end to the fourth peg.

Connect the first and last pegs with a thread. As a result, you will get a rectangle, marked with threads and lying in the plane of the future site with laid paving slabs.

Now we need to divide our surface into strips. The width of the stripes is selected based on the length of your rule (the stripe should be several tens of centimeters narrower than the rule). Set aside the selected distance from the zero line and drive a peg into the ground. Do the same on the opposite side. Connect the pegs with a thread, equalizing its height along the sides of the rectangle, perpendicular to the zero line. In the same way, divide the entire area into strips.

Now you need to level the site relative to the markings. Where the thread is too close to the ground, the soil must be removed, and where it is too close big holes, add some sleep. The gap between the soil and the threads should be approximately two thicknesses of the tile. All this is done by eye, no special precision is required.

The soil, especially where it was added, must be thoroughly compacted. A tamper is used for this. In our case, the tamper was made independently from a crane arm with a welded handle.

When the area is leveled, you can begin laying paving slabs.

Prepare a sand-cement mixture. To do this, pour a pile of sand directly on the ground, gradually mixing cement into it in a ratio of about 6 to 1. It is desirable that the sand is wet, so it is better to lay paving slabs in spring or autumn, when it is not very hot and quite damp.

Distribute the prepared mixture evenly over one of the strips.

Tamp down thoroughly.

Lay steel pipes under the threads marking the boundaries of the strip. The gap between the pipe and the thread should be approximately a centimeter less than the thickness of the tile. The pipes must be strictly parallel to the threads and be at the same height.

Wear shoes and pants that you don't mind getting ruined, and don't forget about knee pads. Kneel between the threads, pass the rule under them and run along the surface of the pipes. You will see where you need to add the cement-sand mixture.

Fill required quantity cement-sand mixture. Start compacting it with your hands while simultaneously stretching the rule. You will have a smooth strip, ready for installation. You can take a little cement-sand mixture and sprinkle it over the leveled area.

Prepare and carefully inspect the tiles, lay them in stacks near the prepared area. The tiles are mostly smooth, but there are some defects. Some tiles can be convex (turtle), concave (plate), or curved (propeller). It is better not to use such tiles and put them aside as a last resort.

Lay one tile, carefully aligning it along the marking axes.

Tap the tile with a rubber hammer, pushing it into the ground to the marking level.

Do the same with the next tile. The sequence of laying the tiles is selected depending on the tile pattern.

Start laying paving slabs from yourself. So, gradually moving forward, you will walk on the newly laid tiles.

Prepare the base in the same way and lay the next strip of paving slabs.

If there are any obstacles on the way (in our case gas pipe And sewer hatch), they need to be bypassed with whole tiles. The final trimming and fitting is best done at the end.

After each working day, the tiles need to be swept. When laying, gaps form between the tiles that need to be filled. It is the process of filling the cracks that is called sweeping. For sweeping we need dry sand and cement. They need to be mixed in a ratio of 1 to 6. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the tiles, and then sweep with a broom several times, filling the cracks.

Attention: sometimes when using a sand-cement mixture for sweeping, colored tiles may remain white coating from cement. This may be due to the quality of the tile, or the peculiarities of its production. Conscientious tile manufacturers in such cases advise sweeping clean sand. If in doubt, you can avoid using a mixture of sand and cement, use only sand.

It is unlikely that your plot will be perfectly rectangular, so you will not be able to do without trimming. Where you need to trim is determined by location. Trimming the tiles is done using a grinder with a diamond disc for concrete.

If you want to make flower beds, mark them using threads or taps. Saw off any excess tiles protruding beyond the borders of the flower beds.

Flowerbeds and edges of the area with laid tiles should be framed with a border. To do this, dig a trench along the edge with a trowel or small spatula. The depth of the trench is selected based on the planting depth of the curb.

Install the curb sections and secure them to the meth with thick mortar.

Near the curbs you will have cells where you need to lay the cut tiles. The soil in these places must be compacted especially carefully, as it could crumble when digging a trench.

Trim the remaining tiles needed to fill the gaps created by avoiding obstacles.

Where the tiles come close to the gate, it is better to lay them not on cement-sand mixture, but on the mortar, since in this place the load on the tile will be maximum.

This article discusses the process of laying tiles in the yard, but in the case of garden paths and blind areas everything is much simpler and does not require such careful preparation.

ElenaRudenkaya (Builderclub expert)

Good afternoon.

Let's go in order.

1. The plant layer must be removed; usually it is 30-50 cm. This is just enough to construct the entire “pie” of the blind area.

It will be useful for you to read our article about constructing a blind area in a private house.

In order for the blind area to be strong and durable, the soil must be compacted correctly. This can be done using a special tamper. The soil needs to be compacted around the house to a distance that corresponds to 1.5 times the length of the blind area itself.

Can install a border, as it looks more advantageous and also serves as a limiter when constructing a blind area. You will have to compact crushed stone and sand many times, which without a strong curb cannot be done well.

For a blind area made of paving slabs, the layers will be as follows:

Compacted soil.
Crushed stone compacted every 10 cm (the layer is selected depending on the desired level). The main material of such a layer can be crushed stone, gravel or ordinary coarse yellow construction sand. The thickness of the drainage layer depends on the finishing layer of the blind area. If paving slabs are used, the thickness of one element is subtracted from the depth of the removed soil layer. Everything else is filled in construction sand. As a rule, the thickness of this layer is about 25-35 cm.
Concrete layer approximately 5 cm M100-150.
Reinforcement mesh from reinforcement with a diameter of 4-6 mm. Concrete itself is not elastic, so with frequent freezing and thawing it will crack. The fittings take over everything internal forces, keeping concrete intact for many years. The reinforcement bars are laid approximately every 5-10 cm. It is best to make a lattice from the bars with square cells, the side of which will be equal to 100 mm.
Concrete 5 cm.
Ruberoid in 2 layers with a slight overlap on the wall of the house (2-3 cm).
Gartsovka, that is, a mixture of cement and sand, cement grade M-150 is mixed in a ratio of 1:3 with sand.
Tile.

2. It’s difficult to give advice on this point. If you do concrete base under the blind area, then the same tiles will suit each zone. If you just use sand or grout without concrete, then the tiles will sag under the load and will need to be re-laid.

3. A slope is required to drain water. The slope can be made at the stage of installing the drainage layer, which is important when using paving slabs. You can also make a slope during the formation of the finishing layer of concrete. The slope should have a minimum value of 1.5 percent, that is, approximately 8 mm for every half meter of blind area length. This slope guarantees normal water drainage. For a blind area made of paving slabs, the difference is 5-10 cm per 1 m.

And also, so that the concrete does not constantly harden, lay roofing material in 2 layers on top concrete screed, and then prancing. Ruberoid will help preserve concrete longer.

As for the gutters. Along the perimeter of the blind area it is advisable to make concrete tray to drain water, you can also use a sawn pipe laid on a concrete base or purchased gutters for these purposes. They will be supplied with water from the blind area and from drainage system and flow to the side.

4. No, just tiles laid on sand will not serve as a blind area, but with a reinforced and waterproofed concrete base it will.

5. An expansion joint is needed so that the blind area tape changes linear dimensions when temperatures changed, it could shift without accumulating internal stresses. MThere should always be a small gap of 1-2 cm between the blind area and the wall.It is better to fill it with ordinary sand or polystyrene. Often, such a gap is filled with a gasket made of several layers of roofing material. The overlap that I wrote about at the beginning will be enough.If there is no such seam, then the blind area, which is made of paving slabs, will create an additional lateral load on the foundation or walls during frost ground floor. This can lead to the destruction of their waterproofing.

Important - the blind area is done only after all work on the facade of the building is completed. This strict requirement is primarily due to the fact that the blind area must protrude beyond the edge of the facade by a certain distance (from 1 to 1.5 m), and the boundary of this edge can be set only after the facade has been completely finished.The laid surface of the paving slabs is thoroughly cleaned of any remaining dry mixture and watered along expansion joints a small amount of water.

Ask.

answer

P covering with paving slabs artificial stone both reliable and attractive. Smooth and rough, made of rectangular elements or mosaic, plain and various colors, it will decorate and enliven the most ordinary buildings.

Paving slabs - a simple and beautiful coating

The popularity of tile coverings is facilitated by the simple technique of work. Thanks to the simplicity of the installation process, even a construction novice can easily master laying paving slabs. You need a minimum of tools, they are simple and inexpensive. Moreover, for small volumes, laying paving slabs with your own hands can be done without tools at all. “Standard” tools are replaced with improvised items and, of course, an understanding of the basic principles of work, which will be discussed further.

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Marking the area for paving slabs

Cladding is an element of improvement of an existing site. Therefore, special accuracy is not required when marking paving slabs, and the entire alignment comes down to building one or two lines on the ground where the installation of curb stones is required.

It is better to start laying from an existing building (for example, if there is a path between two objects), or along it - parallel to the facade line.

If the situation allows, the width of the coating should be “adjusted” to the whole number of tiles. This layout looks better and you will have to cut less tiles.

To do this, first estimate the width of the paving slabs by eye and mark them with pegs. We measure and divide the resulting value by the size of one tile. The resulting value is rounded to a whole number.

For example: the measured value is 264 cm, the width of the tile is 19.5 cm. Divide - 264 cm: 19.5 cm and we get 13.53. That is, for a given width, 13 or 14 whole tiles can be laid. We choose what is preferable in our case to expand (if possible) or slightly reduce the width of the area, and count down.

Let's say the situation allows you to lay 14 tiles, then 14x19.5 = 273 cm. This will be the width of the cladding. We set aside 273 cm and mark it with a peg.

We indicate the direction of laying with the next peg, driving it in so that the cord stretched between it and the first peg is perpendicular to the line connecting the first pegs. And if the site is adjacent to the building, then it is parallel to its facade (see Fig. 1).

As for the height of the cladding, it usually corresponds to the entrance openings of buildings adjacent to the site and (or) porches. It is extremely rare that the height can be tied to any special mark (benchmark) depending on the features of the building.

Advice. When laying tiles, try to compact the base as much as possible. It is best to use a vibrating rammer for this. Ideally, when stepping on the leveling layer, the foot should not leave a mark. With such compaction, there is almost no need to set the tiles; we lay them out only by tapping them with a hammer, which is especially convenient when laying out complex patterns.

Paving slabs

Detailed process of laying tiles

Paving slab care and repair

No special care is required for paving slabs, just like any other stone material, the tile is quite fragile, a strong blow can chip or break it. This must be remembered and when clearing areas and paths of snow, ice, and dried mud, do not use various types of crowbars and cleavers.

15.09.2019

Natural which is intended to provide the construction industry various products for paving, in some cases it has to be used on surfaces with a slight slope. At angles greater than 20°, the only material that can be used is a small or paving slabs medium size, stackable cement-sand mortar or special tile adhesives. At smaller angles, the surface can be covered with and - however, the technology for laying it in these cases differs from the traditional one.

Installation of tiles (arbitrary angle of inclination)

Minor specific gravity tiles per unit of covered area allows you to reliably hold it with almost any composition with a significant degree of adhesion. For this reason, there are no special differences in the laying technology (with the only difference being that the crushed stone “bed” is very carefully compacted with a vibropress and impregnated with plasticizers to increase the level of adhesion of the fractions - and when choosing crushed stone, it is advisable to use gabbro or having low flakiness). In addition, only tiles with significant roughness on both the internal and external surfaces are used (the lower one to increase adhesion, and the upper one to resist strong slipping in rainy or cold weather).

Installation of paving stones (inclination angle 8° - 20°)

The situation with paving stones is much more complicated - since the shape of its elements, with an increase in the angle of inclination, quickly shifts the direction of the stone's center of gravity, contributing to its tendency to slide. However, with minor slopes of up to 20 degrees, this is not critical, although the laying technology in this case is non-standard.

First of all, to guarantee the reliability and integrity of the future paving plane, it is necessary to ideally level and compact the base using a vibropress and abundant wetting (this is especially true for soft and/or loose soils). The same should be done with the drainage “cushion”, in which the use of crushed stone of large fractions is not allowed (it is desirable not granite, but cube-shaped gabbro diabase) – having previously lined the earthen “trough” with dense special geotextiles. The same rolls of identical material cover the crushed stone layer - and only after that they begin to lay out the paving elements (from bottom to top). The last component is a drain installed along the lower perimeter - intended not only for draining water, but also performing an additional supporting function for the entire coating.

Installation of paving stones (tilt angle up to 8°)

In this case, it is possible to use practically traditional technology– but still without using sand or gravel chips as a second support layer (due to their high flowability and low adhesion) and using granite border to keep the covering stones from spreading.

Using non-standard styling techniques

If it is necessary to pave a surface with one degree of slope or another, the steepness can be leveled in other ways. If a significant area of the site allows this to be done (and it is not planned to cover it entirely - but only need to create a ramp, path or sidewalk for the movement of vehicles and pedestrians), the slope can be artificially reduced by turning and bending the narrow stone covering, turning it into a kind of serpentine. If the task is to increase the convenience of moving from lower to higher high level– you can additionally lay out steps from paving stones or tiles and

How to tile a garden path? How to lay tiles around the house?
Do you want to “respect” with an ideal garden path? Prepare your money, gentlemen: the key to a good garden path not only in quality material, but also in no less high-quality installation. Exactly correct styling is the core that will hold the entire track image at the proper level. Don’t try to save money here, it’s a thankless task, because stingy...

How to lay paving slabs yourself?

After you have decided on the tile: color, size, shape - you have checked it for strength (for example, you rode on a tank on the tiles), you can begin the first stage of installation.
This takes into account the topography of the territory, the priority of objects and future paths to them. At this stage, it is important to work in tandem with a professional to protect yourself from amateurish mistakes. If the site has a complex terrain, then after filling (leveling) experts do not recommend further construction work for 2-3 months. During this period, natural shrinkage of the rocks occurs. For greater effect, you can use heavy equipment.

COUNTING THE NUMBER OF PLATES

Let's count total area allocated for paving, taking into account the curb. Up to 15% of this figure will be spent on selecting slabs according to the design, trimming and other construction nuances.

PREPARING THE BASE or What are paving slabs laid on?
Layer order:
1. Crushed stone base;
2. Geotextiles (provided that heavy loads are expected on the path);
3. Sand filling - this layer is thoroughly compacted. Its thickness should be at least 10 cm.
The three-layer base must meet the following basic requirements:

each layer has equal bearing capacity;
the surface must correspond to the design profile;
the base must be frost-resistant;
the surface of the base must be flat;
special control - drainage system: “paving stones-base soil”.

If still at the design stage (provided that throughput precipitation systems and melt water is less than 0.02 lit/sec per 1 m2) the issue of drainage from the coating or using drainage system. The base should be at least 10 cm thick if the soil underneath is heavy or clayey. Interesting article about the design of a bathroom in an apartment.

DRAINAGE
The thickness of the drainage layer ranges from 14 to 70 cm - it all depends on the design of the path and its class. For the bedding layer, you can use sand, fine crushed stone, graphite of fraction 0-5 mm. In a compacted state, the layer thickness can reach 5 cm. However, it should not exceed the upper limits so as not to deform under loads.

How to lay paving slabs (paving stones)? How to lay paving slabs on a slope?

FEMs are laid on the prepared bedding layer in even rows according to the template. The paving stones are laid at the same height with a joint width of 3-5 mm when filling them with sand and at least 8 mm when they are next fixed with mortar. If the tiles are laid under a slope, then cement is added to the dry sand. After precipitation, the solution will grab the tile and prevent it from moving. When laying on a concrete base, for example, for a blind area around a house, or for parking lots, it is used cement mortar. It is applied to the surface, after which the tiles are laid. Don’t forget: the concrete must “set”, so it is recommended to walk along the new path a few days after laying.

RAMMING

After the paving stones are laid, they must be compacted thoroughly. This process is carried out only on a dry surface, evenly, starting from the edges and gradually moving to the middle. Please note that the surface must be cleaned. FILLING THE JOINTS This is done immediately after compacting the paving stones: sand is applied to the joints of the slabs until the seams are completely covered. To achieve maximum density, after each application of a layer of sand it is moistened with water.

CLEANING
All that remains is to clean the laid paving stones from the remains building materials- and it is ready for use and strength testing.