Installation of facade panels with glue. Installation of facade panels

Among well-known siding manufacturers, the Deke Extrusion company is distinguished by the high quality of its products, traditional for German manufacturers. The division operating in Russia consists of 3 factories that successfully produce various facade and roofing materials.

One of the most promising materials that is gaining popularity and is actively developing in production is, or, as it is more often called in Lately, facade panels.

They have high functional and decorative potential, making it possible to make the appearance of the house completely updated without making significant changes to the design. The growing popularity of the material deserves a detailed discussion of its qualities and installation procedures.

Docke façade panels are an external cladding material, which was created for finishing the plinths or lower levels of buildings. In practice, it turned out that basement siding looks much more attractive if it is used to decorate the entire facade of the house.

The result is a high-quality imitation of natural stone finishing, which can radically transform the appearance of the simple house. Such qualities prompted the change in the name of basement siding, which for some time now has been called “facade panels.”

The main distinguishing quality facade panels is an imitation of brick or stone masonry, whereas it repeats different options for wooden walls.

The level of imitation turned out to be very high, since casts from natural fragments of walls made of one or another type of finishing or building stone, brick, etc. are used to make molds.

The company's product range includes several lines of material:

• BERG (rock). The material replicates the masonry of blocks hewn by hand from natural rock. The line has 6 color options, from light gray to dark brown.
• BURG (castle). The basis for the development of this direction was ancient legends telling about knightly castles. The material was created to imitate the appearance of fortress walls, solid and durable. The collection has 10 color options.
• STEIN (under the stone). There are 5 color options for the panels, representing the masonry of the hewn sandstone walls.
• EDEL (noble). The panels have the texture of masonry made of rocks of heterogeneous size, the line is made in 5 color options, repeating the color of noble types of stone - jasper, rhodonite, quartz, onyx and corundum.
• STERN (star). A set of realistic looking blocks of different sizes, all matched to each other. High precision in conveying the texture of the stone, there are 6 color options.

All lines have their own panel configuration, since this is required by the specifics of the simulated stone. The differences are not too significant; they are mainly small differences in linear dimensions and, as a consequence, in the area and weight of the panels.

Features of panel installation

Polypropylene facade panels Deke have technical characteristics close to most plastic sheathing samples - vinyl, acrylic, etc.

Accordingly, the conditions of installation work, in particular the mandatory observance of thermal clearances, are equally relevant for Deke panels.

The fact is that a solid sheathing sheet, being tightly assembled without gaps, will begin to expand when heated and go in waves. In some cases, destruction of nail strips is possible - strips along the edge of the panel with oblong holes for fixing to the base using nails or, more often, self-tapping screws.

To avoid damage or disruption of the appearance of the casing in mandatory Temperature gaps must be observed - gaps between all contacting sheathing elements. This condition is especially relevant for elements that require longitudinal joining (for example, starting strip, J-bar, etc.).

For the same reasons, nails and screws cannot be driven in/tightened all the way. About 1 mm is left between the head and the part to allow movement when changing sizes. The holes in the nail strips have an oblong shape.

The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle so that there is the possibility of slight movement in one direction or another. The only case when this rule is violated is the installation of vertical elements (for example, corner strips). For them, a self-tapping screw in the upper hole is installed at the top point so that the part does not fall down. The remaining screws are arranged according to the general pattern.

NOTE!

The size of the temperature gap depends on the installation temperature. For a hot summer day, 2-3 mm is enough, for a cold winter day - at least 6 mm.

Accessories

In addition to ordinary panels, additional elements are required to install the sheathing. Components, or, as they are also called, additional elements, without which it will be difficult to sheathe a house (photo below):

• Starting bar. This is a special rail with a groove for installing the bottom row of panels.
• J-bar. Serves to complete the cladding fabric, or for any design of the junction of the fabric to other planes (for example, when decorating window openings, it limits the window frame on the side of the window block).
• Corner profile. An element used to finish external corners. For Deke panels, installation of corner profiles is much easier, since they are mounted on top of the panels on both sides of the corner and cover them. They do not have a typical groove into which the sides of the panels are inserted. To ensure reliable installation, there is a starting corner profile that serves as a reference point for the corner profile.
• Border. Used to decorate the end sections of the canvas, overhangs or other areas. To install it use
• Base bar. Used for decorating internal corners, attaching borders, etc.
• Facade window profile. Serves as a support strip when finishing window or doorways.
• Internal corner. Used to decorate the internal corners of the surface.

The list of additional elements for Deke façade panels is much shorter than is the case with conventional types of siding, and the installation technology is simpler and clearer, which is also an advantage of the material.

Tool preparation

To install the panels you will need certain tools:

• Tape measure, metal ruler, folding meter.
• Building level.
• Screwdriver, screwdriver.
• Pliers.
• Hacksaw with fine teeth, grinder.
• Metal scissors.

Installation of a ventilated facade

A ventilated facade is a method of cladding a house in which an air gap of at least 3 cm is provided between the outer layer - the cladding - and the inner layers - the wall, insulation and waterproofing.

This lining device has an important property - water vapor is removed from the thickness wall materials, has the ability to freely exit the insulation. To put it simply, there is a constant opportunity to dry the wall and insulation.

This option allows you to increase the service life of all materials that make up the thickness of the wall and ensures high-quality performance of the insulation. For facade panels, a ventilated facade is the usual type of installation, although installation without it is possible, directly on wooden walls.

Selecting lathing for panels and its installation

The lathing for the panels is load-bearing structure . Its configuration is usually complicated by the presence of insulation, which must be installed between the slats. Therefore, the material chosen for the work is sufficiently strong and durable.

The traditional type of lathing is the system wooden planks . This option is acceptable, but requires straight, dried planks, which should be soaked with an antiseptic immediately after installation to avoid rot, mold, etc.

More a good option the construction of metal sheathing is recognized. Metal guides are used for plasterboard sheets. They are straight, the galvanized surface prevents corrosion processes, installation and adjustment of the plane is much easier than when working with wooden blocks.

In some cases, metal and wooden planks are combined, which is sometimes convenient for complex surface configurations.

Installation procedure:

1. Cleaning the wall outside the house, complete surface preparation— putty, (if necessary), primer, drying the surface.
2. Marking the wall for load-bearing elements— brackets or straight guides.
3. The sheathing for Deke panels has both horizontally and vertically directed strips. Therefore, if you need to install insulation under it, you need to build your own sheathing. It is needed to install supporting strips for panels on top of it.
4. Installation of insulation is carried out between the strips of the primary sheathing. A layer of waterproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation.
5. A load-bearing frame is installed on the primary sheathing strips. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm to ensure the required ventilation gap. Vertical strips are used for mounting corners and sides of panels. Horizontal ones serve as a supporting surface for starting and J-planks, the upper sides of panels, and other elements of the canvas.
6. The pitch of the horizontal strips corresponds to the height of the panel, the pitch of the vertical strips corresponds to half its length.

The main task when installing the sheathing is to ensure that the sizes of the panels and the distances between the planks match, and also to ensure the presence of a flat plane, which allows you to obtain the correct geometry of the sheathing sheet.

How the panels are fastened

The panels are attached to the sheathing strips taking into account temperature changes, i.e. not tightly, but with a gap between the screw head and the part of about 1 mm. A correctly installed element can be freely moved left and right within the width of the mounting holes.

The screw head must be at least 10 mm in diameter, its length must be at least 30 mm. You cannot drill holes for self-tapping screws yourself; you must use standard mounting holes and components.

CAREFULLY!

When joining panels, they should be inserted into the grooves until they come into contact with special stops; they provide thermal gaps. Installation work must not be carried out at temperatures below -15°, since the material becomes brittle and can break under load.

DIY installation instructions

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Installation of the starting bar. The lowest point of the canvas is determined, a horizontal line is drawn along the level, all corner starting strips are installed along it, after which the ordinary starting strips are installed.
2. Internal corners, if any, can be formed using a J-bar or a specialized internal corner profile. To do this, pre-install the base strip with a shelf to the corner so that the panels on one side of the corner fit into the groove, and on the other they are attached over the nail strip. When the panels are installed, the inside corner will be inserted into the groove of the base strip and cover the joint of the planes.
3. Facing is carried out in the only possible direction - from left to right and from bottom to top.. the first panel is trimmed to obtain an even side line, inserted into the groove of the starting strip, aligned with the corner and fixed with self-tapping screws. The next panel is inserted into the side grooves of the previous one, into the starting strip from below, and secured from above with self-tapping screws. The entire row is laid in this way. The following rows are mounted in a similar way.
4. Frames of window and door openings are mounted in the same way as corners. A J-bar is used to connect the design of the slopes and the window (door) frame.
5. The canvas is completed by installing a J-bar, forming the top edge of the panels.

Installation of facade panels for exterior decoration of a house is simple and can be done independently. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for carrying out work and constantly remember the need to maintain temperature gaps between parts, and do not tighten the screws all the way.

Fulfilling these requirements will allow you to complete the work with high quality and get a solid and stylish appearance of the house, imitating masonry at relatively low costs.

Useful video

Technology for installing façade panels using the example of Docke products:

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The cladding of the building protects the house from numerous external influences. Today, installation of facade panels is increasingly used for new and old buildings - it is beautiful and reliable. We’ll look at whether it’s possible to do the work yourself in this article.

There is no need to confuse facade panels and siding, although their purpose is the same - cladding the external walls of the house. Facade slabs appeared relatively recently and are actively replacing other methods of protecting buildings from atmospheric and other influences. They are thicker and more durable than siding. Materials for the production of such cover for external walls have also significantly expanded the range. Today, facade slabs are used both for full coverage at home and for basement cladding. Their demand is simple to explain: this type of façade design replaces many natural materials, but is much cheaper.

A house finished with facade slabs is protected and beautiful

There are numerous types of facade slabs on the market:

• Polyvinyl chloride

An inexpensive cladding option that can be mounted on a lightweight frame or directly on the wall, taking into account the ideal surface. The variety of shapes and colors can please any owner. The disadvantage is the lack of vapor permeability and fragility. Frost resistance is not too high, so it is not worth using such cladding in the Far North. Many types of vinyl planks are flammable, and most release harmful substances when burned.

• Fiber cement

They are made from concrete and wood fibers using synthetic additives, which are a binding component. Durable, environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable, non-flammable fiber cement cladding of facades has conquered the market in many countries. Imitation of natural materials not only in appearance, but also in terms of quality characteristics. Wood-like material has warmth natural wood, but does not burn and does not rot.

• Wood fiber boards

They are used mainly for the lungs country houses and dachas, since they have significant disadvantages: flammability, susceptibility to rotting. But these are some of the most frost-resistant materials - up to 100 cycles, they do not crack and are environmentally friendly.

• Made of metal with PVC lining

They are made from galvanized steel or vinyl-coated aluminum. Easy to use and install, especially cassette types. Durable, not susceptible to rotting, well protect the house from noise, dust and moisture. Disadvantage - the material does not breathe, the outer coating is prone to burning, and is quite expensive.

• From porcelain stoneware

This facade material It is characterized by high strength, resistance to all types of fungi and damage. Porcelain stoneware slabs look expensive and stylish. Such facades give the impression of wealth and protect the house from any outside influences. Lack of panel weight. Carrying out cladding alone is quite difficult.

• Glass panels

We are used to associating glass facades with large shopping centers or office buildings, but glass is increasingly in demand among those who want to give the walls of their mansion a stylish and sometimes fantastic look. Impact-resistant, often bulletproof glass of class A and B is used. Reinforced glass, triplex glass, and glass made from glass granulate foam are used. The advantages of such walls are their beauty and unusualness. The disadvantage is complex installation and high cost.

• Thermal panels

The thermal panel design consists of a thick layer of polyurethane foam or polystyrene coated ceramic tiles to protect the material from external influences. Such protective facades have many advantages: high heat and noise insulation, durability, frost resistance, impact resistance. The simplicity of the tongue-and-groove fastenings makes it easy to install such cladding.

• Sandwich panels

They consist of two layers of metal, between which a plastic layer and a vapor barrier layer are pressed. This is an excellent sound insulator. Withstands any temperature changes. Such slabs may have different surface. Not susceptible to corrosion and fungus. Operating temperatures from -180 to +100 degrees.

Variety of cladding for external walls

Pros and cons of installation

Finishing a building with facade slabs has more advantages than disadvantages, and therefore let’s immediately talk about the disadvantage. The fastening of the facade panel is always carried out on a special frame, and therefore the production of such facades requires knowledge and certain experience. In addition, the cost of many materials is quite high. The advantages of wall cladding with these finishing materials are obvious:

• Protecting your home from high and low temperatures;
• Long term of use from 20 years and above. Most materials have a service life of 50 years or more;
• Protects walls from fungus and rot;
• Resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• Most of the slabs are made of non-flammable and environmentally friendly material;
• Resistant to corrosion.

Before you get started, there are a few important tips to consider.

1. Always lay from left to right and from bottom to top.
2. The need to withstand temperature gaps determines the expansion ability of the material. For example, at 1°C the gap will be 15 mm, at 32°C - 10 mm.
3. Fastening can also be done with low temperatures, but then you need to keep the slabs warm for at least a day to reduce fragility and increase the flexibility of the material.
4. Due to temperature fluctuations, small deformation processes in linear dimensions will occur in the slabs. To prevent deformation changes, use fasteners with a smaller diameter than the holes in the slab.
5. Holes in the wall for fastening must be made at least 10 mm.
6. Never install more than two corners at a time to allow for adjustment.
7. Before starting work, you need to level the walls. Even a metal frame may not be able to save large distortions. If this is difficult to do, then make the sheathing on brackets and fill the space with insulation.

Installation of lightweight facade panels

The first step will be making the sheathing. It can be of several types, but the most important thing is to decide whether you need insulation under the façade elements or not. You need to remember that even if you live in a warm area, insulation not only serves to retain heat, but also protects from heat. It absorbs moisture from evaporation and moves the dew point beyond the walls of the house. Modern insulation materials are sound absorbers and carry part of the protective function of the façade system. This is only the main part of the advantages of organizing a facade with insulation. True, there is a drawback: the material costs from 200 rubles per square meter. On the other hand, if the walls require high-quality straightening, you cannot do without it. It’s better to follow the advice and construct a good ventilated facade on your house, then straightening the walls will not be necessary.

There are two types of battens

Manufacturing of sheathing

The sheathing can be made of metal and wood. For heavy slabs, for example, made of natural stone, glass or porcelain stoneware, a frame is required from a metal profile.

Let's take a metal grill as a basis. If you live in a warm area, then vertical planks can be dug into the ground, but in areas where the soil freezes, you need to measure at least 40 cm from the ground and begin attaching the planks in increments of 91 cm or slightly smaller size insulation. When fastening slabs without insulation, horizontal strips are mounted to vertical strips without protrusions “flush”, the strapping pitch will be 46 cm.

Trim plan

Let's start installing the starting profile. It is mounted above the low tide, if there is one. In the case of a ventilated facade, the ebb is installed under the J-profile, into which the bottom layer of insulation is attached. Installation of the starting profile begins along the bottom bar of the frame strictly horizontally. Don't forget to measure the corner panels. Usually their sides are 10 cm, so the starting profile is mounted with a 10-centimeter offset from the corner. If the bottom edge of the slab requires trimming, then the starting profile is not used, and the cladding is screwed or nailed directly to the sheathing.

Lathing with starting profile

Installation of the first row

Attach the corner first. Now slide the first panel along the starting profile to the left until it fully joins the corner. Please note that the mounting pins must align correctly. Secure the slab and fill the connecting seam with sealant. Move to the next plate, moving from left to right. If necessary, cut slabs, being careful not to cut more than one mounting connection. Cutting of elements is done with a grinder or a saw with rare teeth. Adjust the saw stroke to avoid chipping. Cut the last panel to size.

Installation of the first row

Subsequent rows are attached according to the pattern of the first row. For “brick” facades, it is necessary to move the slab relative to the other in order to obtain a natural brick wall pattern.

Forming internal corners

To install internal corners, you can use a J-profile or cut the slabs according to size and pattern. Take two profiles and install them in the inner corner of the building. The fastening pitch is 15-20 cm.

The last row of panels ends with the fastening of the J-profile and flashing.

Installation of J-profile for internal corners

Installation of heavy facade panels with your own hands step by step

Installation of heavy facade elements is carried out in a different way. It is impossible to simply attach a fiberboard or porcelain tile to a starting profile without additional fasteners. Therefore, the progress of work is as follows.

• First of all, we construct the sheathing. It is necessary to calculate the number and types of profile strips, brackets and fasteners.

Important! You cannot use a galvanized profile for gypsum boards! The facade is too heavy for this metal. It is necessary to purchase a special reinforced profile.

Wall surface prepared for fastening facing material

We install the brackets on which the vertical profile will then be attached. The size of the working part of the bracket is calculated from the thickness of the insulation. After laying the thermal insulation, we install vertical profiles. Mount the main and intermediate profile. The main one should be located at the junction of the plates, and the intermediate one in the middle. Calculation of the pitch is carried out based on the architectural features of the building design and wind load: the size between the profiles is usually 40-60 cm. Horizontal planks have a pitch corresponding to the size of the panel.

• The formation of external corners is usually already provided for by the manufacturer. This can be done without seam-to-joint trimming or with trimming. A metal corner may be placed on the corner, which will need to be painted. In any case, the kit includes sealant and paint to match the color of the main cladding.

Important! When installing, do not forget to leave 3 mm between the plates for thermal expansion! The ends are protected with a special sealant, which should be included in the kit.

Installation of corners

Instructions for fastening cassette facade slabs

Metal or composite cassette slabs for external cladding are a very convenient and profitable material for self-cladding.

Important! Some composite cassettes can deform and fade under intense sun, so be sure to read the instructions before purchasing! The material must comply with GOST.

External and internal view of the cassette

The installation of cassettes is a whole structure, which includes a metal profile, internal and external corners, platbands, flashings, slopes, and fasteners. Such frames greatly facilitate self-assembly. The work can be done using internal and external fasteners. The visible principle is carried out through special holes with which each cassette is equipped. Usually these are curved steel tiles. The hidden method is typical for cassettes with curved bases. They fit into the slots like a Lego set. For such a system, the installation of an L-shaped profile is required.

Flush mounting cassette

Video master class on do-it-yourself installation of facade panels

For a better understanding of the installation work, we present to your attention a film about fastening vinyl panels on one's own.

Installation of vinyl panels

There are many ways to decorate the exterior walls of a building, we have shown one of them. You can install façade panels with your own hands, even alone.

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Plastic as a facing material is becoming increasingly popular for both interior and facade work. Everyone is attracted by its low price, but that’s not the only reason. Plastic panels are easy to install; a beginner can handle the installation. The only condition is strict adherence to technology and the bigger question is how to sheathe the walls plastic panels will not arise.

This material has other advantages:

• strength;

• durability;

• water resistance, as well as resistance to other external influences;

• resistance to high and low temperatures, ultraviolet radiation;

• aesthetic and neat appearance;

• variety of colors and design solutions. In addition to the well-known siding, there are plastic panels designed to look like stone, brick, wood, etc.

Fastening plastic panels to the wall

1. To mount the frame, guides made of wooden beams, metal and plastic profiles can be used (the latter appeared on the market recently and is not yet widely used). The preferred thickness of wooden slats is 4-6 centimeters, thickness - from two to two and a half. It's better to prepare the slats a little longer than the walls rooms, because if necessary, it is easier to trim than to build up. To install a metal frame, it is better to use a rack profile.

Attention: do not forget to treat wooden structural elements with an antiseptic before installation.

2. If the panels will be located horizontally, then the guides should be installed vertically, and vice versa. The location in accordance with the horizontal and vertical must be measured by level. Where there are noticeable deviations, wooden or plastic spacers are used for leveling.

3. The frame is attached to the wall using screws or dowels (depending on the base material).

4. The starting profile is installed on the frame. You can simultaneously install plastic panels on the walls and ceiling. The panels are fastened to the wooden sheathing with nails or a furniture stapler, and to the metal frame - with self-tapping screws. The panels themselves are inserted into one another using built-in locks.

5. The last panel is inserted with one side into the finishing profile, the other into the penultimate panel. If the panel dimensions are larger than necessary, it is trimmed.

6. Finish the cladding by installing plastic corners in all corners of the room, as well as on the ledges.

How to cover a house with siding

Wall finishing with plastic panels (as in the photo) is carried out using the following technology:

1. Here you can also use a metal profile or wooden beams for the frame. The frame is attached to a wooden base with self-tapping screws, and to a concrete or brick base - with dowels. Siding panels are most often placed horizontally, so the frame strips are installed vertically.

2. Wall cladding with plastic panels is done from bottom to top. First, the starting profile is installed, then the rows are placed one above the other: the first is installed entirely, followed by the second, etc.

3. Adjacent panels are inserted into each other. If the last panel of a row is too long, it is trimmed.

Important: when you cover it with plastic panels, they should not reach the edge of the wall a little. Here, during finishing, a corner will be installed that will overlap the edges of the horizontal panels. The panels should not rest rigidly against the corner, otherwise the coating will swell during thermal expansion. For the same reasons, you should not rigidly attach the slats to the frame; you need to leave some play for their movement.

4. The panels are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws at all intersections with it. The upper and lower rows are connected to each other using a longitudinal lock. First, the lock is latched, then it is attached to the frame. The entire wall is covered in this way. The installation ends with a finishing profile located under the roof.

5. Extensions and trims are installed on the windows (usually they, like the corner elements, are included in the delivery package).

6. Corners are mounted on the corners.

Plastic panels for facades exist not only in the form of siding (i.e. long vinyl plank), but also in other shapes, including square. However, the basic principles of installation (installation of the frame, fastening the panels with self-tapping screws to the frame and locks to each other) are the same for all types of panels. The installation process will differ mainly in quantitative details: the step between the frame beams, etc.

The last thing that needs to be mentioned in connection with cladding the facade with plastic panels: if desired, insulation can be placed under them between the sheathing beams. In this case, you must not forget to lay a vapor barrier layer on both sides of the mineral wool slabs, foam plastic, etc.

How to cover walls with plastic panels: fastening and finishing

Find out how to properly cover walls with plastic panels. Installation and fastening of plastic panels to walls. Lining internal walls with plastic panels and

Do-it-yourself wall covering with plastic panels: installation methods

Plastic panels have firmly taken their place among the finishing materials on the market.

At first glance, it seems that their installation is quite complicated.

But in fact, covering walls with plastic panels with your own hands is not a difficult job at all, and any man with minimal experience in repairs can cope with this procedure.

The advantages of the material are undeniable:

• Affordable price - any potential buyer can purchase them;
• Durability - if the material is handled carefully, it can last for a very long time;
• Easy to clean - just occasionally wipe the lining with a damp cloth to remove dust and dirt;
• Moisture resistance - thanks to this indicator, plastic is ideal for installation in the bathroom and on the balcony;
• Versatility - products can be positioned both vertically and horizontally, and even diagonally;
• Multifunctionality – plastic products have many colors and textures; at the customer’s request, any design can be applied using thermal printing;
• Easy to install.

But with all the advantages of this material, there is also a “fly in the ointment”:

• Despite the development of high-tech production, plastic is a completely unnatural material and will not “breathe” like wood. Therefore, it should not be used in residential premises;
• Plastic is a fragile material. Therefore, you should not expose it to sharp and heavy objects. Even a ball from a playing child can significantly damage the surface;
• Low fire resistance - plastic products burn well and emit toxic smoke;
• Low environmental friendliness;
• Specific smell of plastic.

Of course, when choosing more expensive and high-quality manufacturers of material, there will be fewer disadvantages.

By adding certain ingredients, the smell of plastic disappears, resistance to high temperatures increases and environmental friendliness improves.

If we consider that even the most expensive PVC panels are inferior in cost to many cladding materials, then purchasing such cladding will in any case be more profitable.

Installation methods

When covering walls with plastic panels with your own hands, you can use one of three methods of installing them: simply gluing them to the wall with glue, securing the products with self-tapping screws, or fixing them using special fasteners - clamps.

When planting elements with glue, there is one obligatory condition - the wall intended for cladding with such material must be carefully prepared and treated with a special antiseptic composition to avoid the appearance of mold, mildew and unnecessary insects.

And, of course, it must be perfectly level so that they don’t go on a spree.

Fastening facing slabs with glue has another negative side: it is impossible to replace an accidentally damaged plank - you will have to redo everything at once.

In addition, elements placed on glue are quite difficult to remove from the wall.

When installing using self-tapping screws or clamps, preliminary installation of sheathing made of wood, plastic or metal profiles is required.

This method, of course, will slightly reduce the usable area of ​​the room - by approximately 50 mm on each side - but it does not require additional training walls.

At the same time, there are other advantages of the frame method: it will not be difficult to replace a damaged plane; You can hide any communications behind the elements installed on the frame, and as a “bonus” you can use insulation in the cells of the sheathing.

Do not forget that when choosing wooden sheathing, the material must first be treated with a special antiseptic mixture.

Necessary tools and wall markings

Depending on the method of installation of the cladding, it is worth preparing the following tools and materials:

• Jigsaw, hacksaw or construction knife;
• Construction level, tape measure, plumb line and pencil;
• Hammer;
• Screwdriver or screwdriver;
• Special glue – hot melt glue, PVC Moment or “liquid nails”;
• Clamps for fastening, dowels or self-tapping screws;
• Antiseptic compositions for treating walls and wood.

At frame method During installation, you should first mark the wall. This is done only with the help of a building level to avoid distortions in the structure.

When installing the frame, a point is marked on the wall for installing horizontal planks at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor. Using a level, the same points are measured along the entire wall and connected with a horizontal line.

A line under the ceiling is drawn in the same way. Next, the entire wall is drawn in a similar manner with parallel lines at a distance of 40 - 50 cm from each other.

To install the structure in the vertical direction, the wall is drawn accordingly with vertical lines using a plumb line.

Installation of frame, cladding

First, the purchased material for the sheathing must be cut to the required dimensions. Along the already drawn lines, guide profiles made of the selected material - wood, metal or plastic - are attached to the wall.

If the wall is concrete, then the fastening is carried out using dowels, if it is wooden, use self-tapping screws. The distance between fastenings should not exceed one meter.

It is worth considering that for lathing in the bathroom it is better to use a metal profile made of of stainless steel or plastic.

After the frame is completely assembled, the final covering of the walls with plastic panels with your own hands begins.

When decorating a wall with vertical products, a frame strip is first installed, and if horizontal ones are used, an internal corner molding is used.

Having installed the first element in the frame strip or molding, it is secured with a self-tapping screw using a screwdriver or screwdriver for reliability.

The second element is tightly inserted into the grooves of the first and is fixed in the same way with a fastener.

The following planes are assembled in the same way. The last part is attached to the grooves of the final element - an internal corner or strip.

A slightly different pattern is obtained when fastening using clamps.

Do-it-yourself wall covering with plastic panels in the bathroom and other rooms

The article will tell you how to decorate the walls inside any room with PVC panels.

DIY wall covering with plastic panels

Plastic is one of the most used materials in modern construction. Therefore, PVC technology products are produced in a huge range. As for wall decoration, wide panels are used for these purposes, which can be selected according to color, pattern and even the properties that they should have. If you decide to decorate the surfaces with such a finishing material, we will tell you how to cover walls with plastic panels with your own hands so that they lay flat and serve you for many years.

The whole truth about plastic

Before starting work, you should first evaluate the characteristics of this finishing material and debunk all the myths that are associated with it.

True facts:

• Plastic is completely harmless. Thanks to modern technologies, PVC panels, which are intended for finishing premises, have become absolutely harmless to humans. This is due to the fact that now in the production of this material, chemical components such as asbestos and cadmium are not used. In addition, due to this, the price position of plastic in the building materials market has become much lower.
• Aesthetics. Thanks to a huge range of different colors, patterns and textures, a wall covered with plastic panels looks stylish and original.
• Versatility. Plastic panels are convenient to use in places where the use of other finishing materials is problematic or impossible, for example, when cladding walls irregular shape or various architectural delights.
• Reliability. Such material is quite capable of supporting a TV, sconce or painting.
• Organic. Plastic, regardless of its texture and color, looks organically with various ventilation grilles, split systems and sockets.
• Persistence. Despite the fact that plastic is a fairly lightweight material that can be pierced, with proper care it will last for decades and can withstand moisture and different temperatures.

Dispelling myths about plastic surgery

Today there are many “myths” about this material, for example:

• Plastic panels do not require special conditions from the wall surface. As for the plastic itself, it is a fairly undemanding material. But the lathing should take place on a surface that has been cleared of old finishing material and on a completely flat wall.
• Cladding with plastic panels is very easy and does not require special effort. Indeed, the sheathing process is simple, but effort and care will have to be made in order for the finished result to be high-quality and even.
• The hygiene of this material. Unfortunately, this is not true. Plastic does not have moisture or vapor permeability. Therefore, walls that are lined with plastic panels simply do not breathe.

Important! Plastic panels are best used for cladding bathrooms, kitchens, balconies or loggias. It is not recommended to carry out such wall decoration in the bedroom, nursery and living room.

• Unattractive to insects. Due to the fact that the plastic inside is hollow, various spiders and other insects can live in it.

Important! Plastic panels for correct installation are sealed, and if you do not break it, then nothing bad will happen, and “uninvited guests” will not settle inside such a finish.

• Flammability of plastic. This finishing material does not ignite from heat or a match. However, if the room is completely on fire, the plastic panels are also exposed to fire and release toxic substances.

Types of PVC panels

Today, plastic panels are divided into the following types:

• Reiki. They are assembled into a single structure using grooves.

Important! In order to visually enlarge a room using plastic slats, Wall panels must be installed vertically.

• PVC panels imitating tiles.
• Sheet materials. They are similar in appearance to plywood.

This finishing material is mounted on special adhesive mixtures or fixed with small self-tapping screws, and the joints are sealed at the end of the work.

Important! When choosing a material for wall cladding with plastic, first pay attention to the color scheme and pattern.

How to cover walls with PVC panels?

For decorative finishing walls with this material, you should stock up on special tools. You will need:

Important! It is best to opt for a saw. This is due to the fact that when working with a jigsaw, it comes across stiffening ribs - the cut at the end may turn out to be wavy.

• Miter box for a jigsaw with angles of 90 and 45 degrees;
• Staple gun - you will need it if the sheathing will be done on wooden sheathing;
• Rubber mallet;
• Plaster spatula.

Important! When choosing a stapler for working with plastic, pay attention to ensuring that the slot of the extruded staple is located as close as possible to the toe. This will make installation much easier.

Preparatory work

Before covering the walls with panels, you must first make the sheathing - making the main frame. This will allow panels to be replaced without difficulty in the future and to ensure their reliable fastening. Wooden bars or metal profiles are most often used for lathing walls.

Important! Small cells, which are located directly behind the structure, can also be used for laying insulating materials.

This type of sheathing is attached to the wall surface using clamps or self-tapping screws in dowels. In order for the frame to be strong and you do not have any problems when installing plastic panels, the lathing process must be carried out following the following sequence of actions:

• Use a level to make preliminary markings.
• Place the transverse battens of the sheathing at a distance of 30-50 centimeters from each other.

Important! Please note that the lowest rail should be positioned in such a way that it is in maximum contact with the floor, and the top one with the ceiling.

• To hide corner joints, install guides and fittings.

Important! If the wall is not completely level, you can put a piece of wood or some other durable material under the rail.

We install PVC panels

In order to cladding walls with plastic panels with your own hands, you must adhere to the following algorithm of actions:

• Fix the starting and finishing profiles of the structure vertically.
• Place the first board into the top profile and bend it slightly.
• Place the board fully in place, secure it with staples or screws.

Important! To ensure that the walls end up smooth and without gaps, do not forget to use a building level.

• Install the remaining PVC panels in the same way.

Important! A cheap profile from such manipulations may remain bent or crack along the edge of the corner. In order to correct such a defect, it is necessary to heat the deformed area using a household hairdryer and iron it with pressure with a cold iron.

• On the side of the large mounting shelf, trim the last board to the size you need. Afterwards, bring it under the niche allocated for it.
• Hide the cut part. To do this, carefully bend the shelf of the finishing profile and place it under the board.

How to care for PVC panels?

After you have finished the walls with plastic, it is very important to ensure this material proper care. This will significantly extend its aesthetic appearance and long term operation.

Basic rules for caring for walls covered with PVC panels:

• This surface should only be washed with a soft cloth.
• Try to use detergents that do not contain abrasives or solvents for washing.

Important! The most acceptable option for caring for plastic wall cladding is considered to be a regular soap solution.

• Finally, the surface should be wiped with plain clean water.

Despite the fact that plastic for wall cladding is quite easy to install, there are still nuances, failure to comply with which will lead to a significant reduction in the service life of such finishing and the appearance of gaps due to an uneven surface:

• You cannot work with cold material, therefore, if the plastic is brought from the street, it needs to be allowed to stand for 30-60 minutes before starting the process.

Important! PVC panels should not be installed in rooms with temperatures below 20 degrees.

• The sheathing should be divided in such a way that there is a distance of about 50 centimeters between the slats.
• For better ventilation, it is necessary to make cuts in the slats themselves.
• Despite the fact that PVC panels are a fairly unpretentious finishing material, before starting work you should still clean the walls of old finishing material and debris.
• If there is a need to cut panels into pieces, this should be done face down.
• The protective film can only be removed after the installation work has been completed.
• If you are attaching panels to the sheathing, it is best to use special thermal washers to fix them. This is a fairly reliable mount that can withstand high temperatures.
• If PVC panels have a pattern, then installation should begin from the left corner and gradually move to the right.
• To lay the wires, it is necessary to pre-install the grooves of the plastic strips before starting installation work.

Installing PVC panels is quite simple and not too labor-intensive process. However, even such an easy-to-work finishing material requires compliance certain rules during its installation. By putting our advice into practice, you will be able to decorate walls with plastic without much physical effort or material costs. As a result, you will get perfectly smooth walls, a stylish design and warm atmosphere comfort in your home.

Do-it-yourself wall covering with plastic panels, ServiceYard - the comfort of your home is in your hands

Decided to design a bath, kitchen or other room PVC material? Find out how to cover walls with plastic panels yourself. In this article you

How to cover a house with plastic panels?

Plastic panels in household - an irreplaceable thing, since they can be used to cover any surface except the floor, while the owners save a significant amount both on the material itself and on the work, because assembling the coating is quite simple.

How to cover a window with plastic panels?

The most exciting issue after installing a metal-plastic double-glazed window is the finishing of the slopes, and many are inclined here in favor of drywall, but it is better to install plastic panels with a number of advantages:

• Convenient and quick installation that does not require “wet” finishing methods;
• The panel is resistant to mechanical stress, while drywall is chipped;
• If necessary, you can always carry out repairs by quickly disassembling the cladding.

The best option, especially in strong winds and low temperatures, would be use of plasterboard with plastic lining.

Before installing the panel, it is necessary to remove excess polyurethane foam, after which to window frame The starting U-shaped profile is attached using self-tapping screws. It is better to cut the mounted panel with a jigsaw to ensure an accurate cut, with a width and height equal to the slope of the window.

Joints between the window sill and panels must be closed with the start profile, and the final fixation from the side of the room is made with a finishing F-shaped profile, the edge of which, at the corners of the window, is cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

The installation of the top panel is carried out in the same way., after which the space between the panels and concrete slopes can be filled with polyurethane foam, and the gaps at the joints of the side and top panels are masked with white sealant.

How to cover a kitchen with plastic panels?

Plastic – the most suitable material for cladding kitchen premises, and here it must be said that it is more practical than tiles, which are often used in the kitchen space.

No plastic allowed directly near the cooking and frying zone, as it can warp and even ignite, but otherwise it can be used without restrictions.

Just like in any other room it is necessary to make lathing on the walls from wooden planks. At the bottom, the panels will be fixed to the same strip, but covered with a plinth, but at the top and at the starting corner, a starting U-shaped profile is attached to the wall.

Then the panels are installed, each of which is secured relative to the wooden sheathing with self-tapping screws. The next segment that is established closes the connection of the previous one.

Corners at the junction of walls closed with a special corner profile, and sections of the wall between wall cabinets and the cutting table are faced in the same way as in other areas.

How to cover a loggia with plastic panels?

Those apartment owners who have not just a balcony, but a loggia, are deservedly considered lucky, since, in essence, they have one extra room at their disposal.

Plastic panels are the most likely type of finish, they are not afraid of temperature fluctuations, and to preserve heat, thermal insulation is placed under them.

No surface preparation required you just need to make the crate, here you can use a metal profile; sheets of mineral wool are laid in the spaces between the profiles, which will significantly insulate the room.

At the junction with the ceiling and in the corner from which installation will begin, starting profiles are installed, and from the bottom the panels will fit flush behind the plinth, so there is no need for a profile here, the fxing is carried out only along the lower edge of the sheathing.

The panels are mounted end-to-end using a locking connection, and at the same time attached to the sheathing using self-tapping screws. A special corner profile is used in the corners.

How to cover a house with plastic panels? Covering windows, kitchens and loggias with panels

Plastic panels in the household are an irreplaceable thing, since they can be used to cover any surface except the floor, while the owners save a significant amount both on the material itself and on the work, because assembling the coating is quite simple. How to cover a window with plastic panels? Most

Vinyl siding: self-cladding of facade walls

The construction of the house is completed, as is the interior decoration. All that remains is to “dress” the house from the outside. And here the question arises: what is better: clinker bricks or tiles, vinyl siding or full-fledged stone cladding? The answer is simple: siding. It is sheathing with plastic panels that the home owner can do, and it is considered the easiest option for facade finishing.

Plastic panels as finishing material

Owners of private houses strive to improve their home while spending as little money as possible, so they resort to siding wall decoration. Plastic is a practical material from the point of view of home-grown master builders, and therefore is used for both interior and exterior wall decoration. Today, PVC panels (polyvinyl chloride) are common, using which you can not only hide wall defects, but also decorate the facade of the house.

Plastic false lining is an excellent option for decorative finishing of a private home: the color of the panels allows them to be used as wooden cladding

• A variety of colors - siding made of PVC panels involves not only imitation of lining, but also natural material (stone, wood, granite).
• Affordable price.
• Aesthetics - the facade of the house looks neat compared to conventional plaster. In addition, the panels will hide any defect in the wall surface and even an uneven wall.
• Convenience and speed of installation - due to their light weight, plastic panels are quickly attached to walls and are easy to process (cut).
• Good technical characteristics - moisture resistance, frost resistance, resistance to fungal infections, low flammability.
• Durability - plastic panels are resistant to fading and can last for several decades (10–15 years according to the manufacturers’ warranty).
• Flexibility.

• Poor impact resistance - they are easily damaged during transportation; when working with the material, the material should be handled as carefully as possible.
• Not all types of PVC panels can be attached directly to the wall - installation usually requires the installation of sheathing.
• Harmful emissions when burning.

Note: the strength properties of the panels will depend on the thickness of the sheet and the number of stiffeners. Therefore, to check the strength, you should press on the surface of the material: the more stiffening ribs in the sheet, the less likely it is to sag and the longer the service life of the finish.

Types of panels

All plastic panels for exterior decoration of house walls can be combined into several groups:

1. Stone finish. It is clear that natural stone for wall decoration is quite expensive, so PVC panels used as cladding will be a good substitute. This means that plastic with imitation of natural stone will look no worse, and the advantages are obvious: lighter weight and less load on the foundation of the house, excellent decor.
2. Brick finish. Ordinary decorative brick, clinker brick or brick tiles - these materials are no less expensive than natural stone, but plastic can easily imitate them. Today, manufacturers offer two types of decorative plastic panels - homogeneous and combined structure. In the first case, the material is homogeneous, has an even color and has no layers. In the second case, the panel has an additional insulating layer, usually polystyrene foam. The advantage of this finish is that it can be fixed at any temperature (unlike brick).
3. Wood finish. This is the so-called lining - the most common material that imitates wood. You can use false lining for house cladding for any house architecture: it is easy to attach and there are no installation difficulties.

Construction stores today offer various imitations of finishing: brick, stone, lining and even decorative plaster.

IN separate group Plastic panels should be selected for finishing the base (foundation) - they must be stronger and thicker, be sure to be mounted with insulation and have increased moisture resistance.

Calculation of the amount of material

From correct calculation Not only the economical purchase of material will depend, but also the correctness of quick installation.

Let's look at an example of how to correctly calculate the material. A house diagram is being prepared indicating all dimensions - the total length of the walls, the presence, number and sizes of window and door openings, the presence of a plinth, etc. Based on calculations, siding will be purchased - the area of ​​door and window openings is subtracted from the total area of ​​the house, the resulting figure and will be required quantity material.

Smat = (Shouse - Swindow - Sdoor) + 5%, where

Smat, Shouse, Swindow, Sdoor - the area of ​​materials, walls of the house, windows and doors, respectively, and 5% is the addition of material to the total area.

To determine the area of ​​the wall for cladding, it is enough to know the dimensions of the wall, window and door (if any)

Thus we get:

Smat = (Shouse - Swindow - Sdoor) + 5% = (3.8m*7.2m-1.6m*2.2m) + 5% = 25.032, or 25.03 m 2 - this is the amount of material required for finishing

If it is additionally planned to cover the base/foundation of the house and the pediment, then their areas are calculated in the same way: the foundation is calculated by the area of ​​the rectangle, the pediment by the area of ​​the triangle.

Required tools and materials

Despite the ease of installation of plastic panels, you will still need minimal tool skills:

1. Electric drill, screwdriver, electric jigsaw. They will cut the panels to the required size, and use an electric drill and screwdriver to attach the panels to the sheathing or walls.
2. Miter box for jigsaw. This “auxiliary” tool will allow you to cut all panels to the same length and chamfer.
3. Construction level, stapler. The level will measure the equality of the panels, and the stapler will attach the layers of heat, hydro and vapor barrier.
4. The panels themselves are the right color.
5. Consumables: fasteners, corners, screws, brackets, insulation, waterproofing, vapor barrier film.
6. Profiles: starting and finishing (necessary for fixing plastic siding)
7. Decorative corners, components.

Mounting methods

There are several of them: for staples, liquid nails, screws, clamps.

The type of fastening will depend on the weight of the panel and the presence/absence of sheathing

Liquid nails are used to fasten the panels to a perfectly flat surface; instead, special glue for PVC panels is also used.

Using self-tapping screws or staples, you can fasten the panels either to the sheathing or without it - directly to the wall. A screwdriver is required for fixing.

Fastening with clamps is similar to fastening with self-tapping screws. The panels are fixed to the frame securely and firmly.

Step-by-step instruction

Preparatory work

At this stage, the preparatory work boils down to removing the old finish from the walls (if any), filling up potholes, chips, cracks in the walls, minimally plastering the surface and treating the walls with a primer with moisture-repellent properties. It is not necessary to make it “beautiful”, because all the defects of the wall will be hidden behind the panels.

Preparatory work also includes marking the surface of the walls for installing the sheathing frame.

Note: when covering walls with siding panels, it is necessary to lay a vapor and waterproofing layer with insulation.

Installation frame

Here you need to decide on the type of frame - wood or metal profiles. Both options are the same in terms of construction; the only difference is cost and durability. So, before making a frame from timber, it is necessary to impregnate all the material with an antiseptic composition - it will protect the tree from harmful insects and fungal infections. Of course, a wooden frame can be cheaper at the initial stage of construction, but it will last less than a metal one.

A frame made of metal profiles, and even galvanized, will cost more - but its service life will be longer. In addition, there is no need for costs for additional processing of the structure.

According to the markings, the main slats are first attached to the walls - they will become supporting ones, on which the sheathing itself will then be installed. The sheathing is a honeycomb, in the cells of which insulating material, a hydro- and vapor barrier layer are laid.

Note: Despite the seemingly expensive design, additional layers increase thermal insulation and noise insulation characteristics of the house.

The frame (wooden or metal) is fastened to the wall with self-tapping screws; the fastening points must be treated with an antiseptic (for a wooden frame) or a primer (for metal profiles). The sheathing pitch is 0.3 - 0.5 m, all ends must be secured to avoid “sagging”. The fastening pitch is 25–30 cm.

Laying the “layer”

The sheathing frame is arranged in such a way that the panels are attached to the wall with some “air” gap, or layer. This gap is necessary so that the surface of the main wall does not rot, condensation does not accumulate on it, and the under-frame space is ventilated.

In addition, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation (as a rule, these are either sheets of foam plastic, or mineral or glass wool) and a waterproofing layer (so that the wall surface does not “flow” when there is a temperature difference between the inside and outside). You can also lay a vapor barrier film - it additionally prevents the formation of condensation on the surface of the main wall.

After the layer has filled the honeycomb of the frame, you can begin to fix the finishing material.

Installation of panels on lathing

The panels themselves have two edges, on one side there is a shelf that is attached to the frame, on the other there is a “lock” shelf, which is what holds two adjacent panels together.

Important: the covering of the entire wall will depend on how carefully the first panel is fastened; it will become the guide for the entire finish.

Plastic panels are attached to the sheathing and at the same time snapped into place (with a key connection)

The sequence of work when installing the panels is as follows:

1. Profiles - starting and finishing - are mounted on the installed sheathing. The first panel is laid into the lower profile, then slightly bent and inserted into the upper profile. After installation, the panel is secured with self-tapping screws. The next panel is installed in the same way, placing the lower part in the lower profile, the upper part in the upper one and fixing the panels along the sheathing.
2. The last panel must be cut to the required length on the side of the large shelf. Next, the panel is inserted into a niche prepared for it and closed with a decorative corner.

Note: the installation method described above is for panels with a vertical fastening method. When laying the panels horizontally, all steps are repeated, only the main and guide profiles are attached to the beginning and end of the wall.

In both cases, the panels are deflected across the sheathing

Wall cladding can be secured with self-tapping screws, nails, and even staples or liquid nails. However, experts advise using hidden fasteners with clamps - with their help, the panels are sewn to the sheathing. By the way, if the walls of the house are built of brick, foam concrete or are made of logs, fastening the siding with clamps will be in the best possible way- the fastener will not damage the material and will become quite reliable.

Advice: if the walls of the house have sufficient thermal insulation, then laying insulating material is not required. Only hydro- and vapor barrier layers can be attached to the frame.

Fastening panels without sheathing

There are cases when installing lathing is impractical, and you have to mount the panels directly on the wall of the house. How to make the cladding in this case, what are the advantages and disadvantages of this finishing method?

• Saving time and money on sheathing - no frame construction required, no hassles with sheathing required. The panels are fixed directly to the wall.
• The method is suitable for wooden frame or panel houses- the walls of such a house themselves are multi-layered, the insulation is already “sewn” into them and no additional thermal insulation is required.
• In addition to plastic panels, the function of which is limited to decoration, panel walls Such houses can be additionally sheathed with composite sheets. The sheets act as a support, providing strength and rigidity to the walls, so siding sheets can be installed directly on the wall of the house.

• The absence of a gap between the sheathing and the main wall - an unventilated wall is more quickly susceptible to fungal attack, rotting and destruction.
• The frameless method of attaching plastic panels is only suitable for perfectly flat walls.

Installation of panels using the frameless method is somewhat simplified, in contrast to fastening the panels to the sheathing.

Installation is carried out directly on the wall, fastening is frameless

Advice: despite the apparent perfect evenness of the walls, they must be plumb to avoid deviations from the verticals.

After checking the evenness of the walls, you can begin marking them. First, mark the boundary from which the starting cladding strip will begin.

Important! You can begin fixing the siding using the frameless method only after covering the base. In this case, the ebb for the foundation is first installed.

In addition to ebb and flow, frameless installation uses various decorative fittings - with its help you can hide defects and panel joints, and play up the transitions from walls to openings.

Final works

After the panels are secured, an equally important job begins - decorative design of joints, corners, framing of window and door openings. Here you can show your taste. So, to highlight certain areas (for example, windows and doors), you can use decorative strips and corners a tone darker than the color of the main trim. The same applies to the cladding of the foundation (basement): the bottom can be decorated in dark colors, and the frame in light, contrasting colors.

A good solution was the contrast of the foundation with facade finishing and framing the ebbs in a shade darker than the wall cladding

Paneling the walls of a house, like any other work, has a certain sequence of actions. To install siding correctly, you must follow the manufacturers' recommendations.

The quality of the finish will largely depend on what sheets were purchased. So, you shouldn’t buy vinyl siding if:

• the stiffening ribs are deformed, even slightly;
• the coating is at least slightly different in tone;
• there are defects or minor scratches on the surface;
• panels do not match in size.

1. You cannot work with cold material - otherwise you can damage the sheet beyond repair.
2. You should first prepare " work area» - clear the surface of the walls, sand out cracks if possible.
3. When cutting panels to the required length, the sheets should be kept face up. In this case, the protective film can be removed after the panels are fixed to the wall.
4. When attaching panels to the sheathing, special thermal washers are used, placed under the fasteners - they are used as equalizers for plastic. In hot weather, the attachment points may become deformed, the plastic will crack and can easily fly off the sheathing.
5. If it is planned to lay electrical wiring under the panels, then it is necessary to mark the places for laying the cable in advance and arrange special grooves for it from flexible strips.

Working with vinyl siding under the lining is, at first glance, simple. However, when installing the panels you should be extremely careful, since one incorrectly fastened panel can subsequently distort the entire finish. Therefore, it is advisable to adhere to all recommendations for working with plastic panels, and if such work is carried out for the first time, then you must consult with specialists.

Cladding the walls of a house with plastic panels with your own hands: like brick, stone, without sheathing, and so on video

How to cover walls with plastic panels with your own hands - a guide. Types of panels, calculation of materials, step-by-step instructions with photos and videos.

There are no materials without flaws. Disadvantages need to be mentioned "I-Fasada"
.

I think the first thing is the price. Some time ago it went up in price (apparently due to exchange rates) and began to cost 821 rubles per sq.m.
. For an ordinary person who does not want to install vinyl siding on his facade and is looking for a replacement, this price is unaffordable, it seems to me. On the other hand, when compared with analogues, the price is still attractive.

Secondly, a potential disadvantage "Ya-Fasada" for a frame house
is its relative newness, which results in a lack of reviews and experience in using these panels in the long term.

Decker panel features and installation

A worthy option for finishing material for facades today is decker panels, which are developed in Europe by leading manufacturers using the latest technologies. The peculiarity of decker panels is their design, which imitates natural materials, as well as special German locks.

For finishing, you can use a stone, brick or porous sandstone decker - the variety of textures allows you to solve problems of any complexity, using panels in conjunction with other finishing materials.

The main advantages of decker panels include the following:

1. The material and manufacturing technology - the decker is created on the basis of polymers by casting under high pressure.
2. Wide range of use - suitable for cladding light facades when it is not possible to use heavy finishing materials such as stone.
3. Decker perfect option for cladding the facade, both as a whole and its individual elements.
4. Decker panels are easy to maintain, do not require preventive maintenance, and are easy to install.
5. The material is available in a wide variety of colors and textures.
6. Decker harmonizes perfectly with products from other manufacturers.
7. The material has an impressive service life - up to 50 years.
8. The materials come with instructions so you can do the installation yourself.

The products weigh practically nothing, so installing them will take a minimum of time, taking into account the convenient and practical fasteners specially designed for this. Siding can be attached to any type of base, without installing a frame. The exception is uneven walls, for the preparation of which you will need to install lathing.

General rules for working with the YA-FACADE facade system and the GL Decorative system

YA-FACADE panels and the GL Decorative System cannot be rigidly fixed. On products
rectangular slots are provided, the self-tapping screw must be screwed strictly into the middle
holes must remain between the screw head and the surface of the product
gap 0.8-1 mm. The lower edge of the installed panel must rest on the upper
edge of the bottom panel. The Westmet company recommends shifting each subsequent row relative to the previous one to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.

Install the sheathing. (Fig. 1)
For installation of YA-FACADE and the GL Decorative System, the manufacturer recommends using a plasterboard profile produced by Grand Line.
The profile is mounted vertically at a distance of 300-400 mm along the axes, (Fig. 2) it is installed completely around doors, windows and other openings, in all corners, above and below
surface to be sewn. To create a flat surface for the sheathing and avoid wavy surfaces, the sheathing is leveled using straight hangers.

Using chalk cord, laser level, or beat off the water level strictly
horizontal line around the entire perimeter
building. This will be the lower level of the facade.
Mount the GL Decorative System on
corners of the building, around window and door openings. (Fig. 3, 4, 5, 6) On internal corners
use two universal J-profiles
7/8". The technique of fastening the GL Decorative System is similar to the fastening of additional
elements for vinyl siding. Attach the radius bar by screwing the screws into the top holes on both sides.
The bar should hang on these two screws. Make sure it is installed level.
Attach the radius bar by screwing
screws at a distance of 200-400 mm each
from friend. Self-tapping screws should not be screwed in
too tight (the gap should be
0.8-1 mm). Insert the typesetting strips into the radius strips and secure them. Secure
using self-tapping screws, starting elements with a distance of 300-400 mm along a previously drawn line. (Fig. 7)

All vinyl façade panels YA-FASAD are installed from left to right. Cut off the left side
the first panel to be installed so that
it could be installed
flush to decorative
GL system. (Fig. 8)

Insert the panel into the starting elements and slide it into the groove of the Grand Line Decorative System. (Fig. 9, 10).

Leave a gap between the YA-FACADE panels and the decorative system of 8-10 mm for
compensation for thermal expansion. (Fig. 11)

Installation of subsequent panels in a row is also carried out using the installation method on the right
left. The protrusions of the right panel are inserted into the corresponding grooves of the left
panels. (Fig. 12).

Try to start each new row with a random, uneven offset.
The trimmings obtained in this case will be used to complete the row. (Fig. 13, 14).

Installation of the last panel in a row is carried out as follows.
At the vertical junction of the panels, trim the lock of the bottom panel. (Fig. 15). Measure the distance from the penultimate panel to the beginning front side accessory and add
10 mm to it. Measure the resulting result onto the panel and cut it. (Fig. 16).

Insert the last panel through the lock slot of the bottom panel from left to right. (Fig. 17).
Insert it all the way into the groove of the accessory. Slightly bend the tabs and insert them into the mating
grooves of the penultimate panel. (Fig. 18). Slide the panel to the left. Secure the panel. (Fig. 19, 20).

When you reach the top of the wall, you will need to trim the panels you are installing
in the last row, in height. Measure the distance from the penultimate row of panels to
the inside of the universal J-profile 7/8’’ and subtract 5-7 mm from the measurement result.
Cut off the top of the panel based on the calculations obtained. Paste
the prepared panel into the lock of the bottom panel. Slightly bend the panel and insert it into
universal J-profile 7/8’’.

During the installation of basement siding, the facade panels should be fixed with a small gap (about 1 mm) between the screw and the surface of the product. Rigid fastening can lead to deformation of the panel during operation (due to linear expansion of PVC due to temperature changes). Self-tapping screws are installed in the center of the rectangular mounting holes. If the features of the facade do not allow screwing a self-tapping screw into the existing hole or it is missing in the right place, a new slot is made using a special tool (where necessary). The edges of adjacent elements are joined together vertically so that there is no noticeable gap. Stroymet specialists recommend moving panels in adjacent horizontal rows relative to each other so that long vertical seams do not form.

Summary of I-façade analogues

Foundry:

Premium segment. American panels highest quality for the appropriate money. All necessary certificates for the Russian market have been obtained.

Interesting but overrated material. The design has a number of shortcomings - painting defects, poor detailing of the panel joints. The production volume is extremely small. Information about the availability of certificates is not publicly available.

Aelit:

Expensive material of very questionable quality. The main complaints from buyers are that it is very thin, very loud, unnatural colors, and the joining of the panels is poorly designed. There is no information about the availability of certificates.

Yu-Plast, Sidelux (Dolomite):

The minimum possible quality for a price slightly lower than that of competitors. The material is made using Chinese equipment and has very weak strength characteristics. The quality of the panel joints is poor. The quality of painting is low. At the same time, it is cheaper than existing analogues.

Two simple manufacturing methods

1. Making from concrete is considered the easiest way. The raw materials used are Portland cement, fine crushed stone, sand, lime and plasticizer. In order for the cladding to have water-repellent and frost-resistant properties, modifiers must be added to the mixture. The production process is very simple. All components are mixed, poured into the mold and laid out on the vibrating table platform. This is a mandatory procedure to completely remove air. After drying, the product is painted in the preferred color.
2. If you want to make clinker tiles, the technology is slightly different. A clay mass is used as a base, which is mixed with modifiers. The prepared mass is poured into a vibratory pressing machine, through which the tiles are formed. This process includes mandatory firing. The workpiece is also pressed under high pressure. The firing temperature reaches up to 1300 degrees Celsius. The result is a high quality finish.

Step-by-step instruction

Now let's look at the step-by-step process of how manufacturing is carried out facade tiles with your own hands. All work must be carried out at temperatures from +15 to +30 degrees Celsius. This temperature range will provide ideal conditions to harden the product.

Please note: For protection purposes, gloves and goggles must be used. The room should be well ventilated

First, molds for casting are prepared. A vibrating table is also installed. You can use a regular table.

Further work has the following sequence:

• The molds are treated from the inside with soap or oil. This will make removing the tiles from the mold simple and easy.
• Next, the solution for casting is prepared. Let's consider a simple cement-based option. For mixing, it is best to use a concrete mixer, so all components will be evenly mixed together. For one bucket of sand there is half a bucket of water. These components are mixed for one minute, and then two buckets of cement and another bucket of water are added.
• After this, half a bucket of water and four buckets of sand are added. These components are mixed.
• The resulting composition should not be rare. Its structure should be plastic and dense.
• When the required consistency is reached, dye is added to the composition and everything is mixed.
• Next, the solution is poured into molds. This must be done on a working vibrating table.
• The solution is distributed evenly across all forms.
• Throughout this time, the vibrating table continues to operate.
• During vibration, air bubbles will come out of the solution. At the same time, using a wide spatula, all forms are leveled to the same level.
• The solution protruding beyond the mold is immediately eliminated.
• After this, the workpiece is sent to a drying cabinet or a special drying chamber.

Complete hardening can take up to two days. During this time, the forms cannot be touched. After this period, the forms are immersed in a container with warm water to +60 degrees Celsius for three minutes. Afterwards they are removed from the water, as well as the tiles from the mold.

It is necessary to remove it carefully so as not to damage the workpiece. You can use a rubber mallet or light hand movements

The facade tiles will be completely ready for further cladding after 10 days.

Conclusion As you can see, DIY tiles are a doable task. By making it yourself, you will save your family budget, but you will also need to spend time and effort on the production process itself.

But the end result will not leave you and those around you indifferent. To consolidate all the material presented, we recommend that you watch the prepared video.

Installation of Kmew facade panels

The main points for installing Japanese facade panels were discussed above, so you can dwell on the installation features.

Kmew fiber cement facade panels are attached to an installed frame made of wood or metal using self-tapping screws or clamps, with a gap between the surface of the main wall and the inside of the panel. air gap- air circulating in the gap promotes the evaporation of the resulting condensate.

A characteristic feature of Kmew panels is the presence of grooves with projections on the end parts of the elements, which allows the panels to be tightly joined to each other. As for the thickness of the panels, it can vary between 14–16 mm.

Additionally, the joints are treated with silicone sealant.

You can buy these panels on the website of the official representative of the KMEW company.

Additional benefits

Indistinguishable from natural material

Decorating the outside of the house with brick-like façade panels will make it possible to distinguish the house from the monotonous mass of similar buildings. Except aesthetic perception Such solutions will provide a number of interesting bonuses:

• relatively light weight (compared to classical masonry);
• resistance to temperature influences;
• preventing moisture from entering under the surface layer;
• practicality in service;
• heat and sound insulation qualities;
• ease of installation;
• budget option for construction (compared to the costs of brickwork).

To produce such proposals, a large number of different materials are used. Each of them has its own advantages:

1. Finishing with brick-like façade panels made of aluminum and steel will allow the wall to acquire additional durable qualities.
2. Wooden materials are mainly decorative function. Lovers of all things natural will especially appreciate this.
3. The most popular are fiber cement facade panels imitating brick, there are quite a lot of photos of them on the Internet. Among other things, such materials perfectly represent all the best - practicality, durability and beauty.

Types of panels

Nowadays there are a lot of cladding panels and slabs made from a variety of materials on sale. Siding is very popular, and the demand for polymer, fiber cement and porcelain tiles is growing. There are even wooden options with enhanced protective properties.

Name	Characteristics
Metal siding	Material of manufacture – sheet aluminum, Cink Steel. Base thickness 0.5-0.6 mm, panel width 226 mm. As protective coating polyester is used. Service life is about 30 years. The panels are fireproof, waterproof, and do not fade in the sun.
Vinyl siding	Manufacturing material – polyvinyl chloride. Panel width 200-250 mm, base thickness 1.2 mm. The panels are waterproof, rot-resistant, non-toxic, and do not fade in the sun. Service life is about 30 years. Wide variety of colors and textures, imitation of natural materials.
Polyurethane panels (thermal panels)	Polyurethane foam base and outer layer of clinker tiles. Panel thickness from 30 to 100 mm, low water absorption, high frost resistance, resistance to aggressive substances and rot. It has low thermal conductivity and a service life of up to 50 years.
Fiber cement panels	The material used is cement with the addition of cellulose fibers and mineral fillers. Panel thickness 8-12 mm, average size 1220x2500 mm. The service life is about 20 years, the panels are resistant to rotting, sudden temperature changes, and have low thermal conductivity.
Porcelain stoneware slabs	Plates with a thickness of 7-30 mm, sizes from 300x300 mm to 600x1200 mm. Durable frost-resistant material, non-flammable, environmentally friendly. Service life more than 50 years, undemanding in maintenance. The only drawback of such slabs is their heavy weight, so when cladding a facade you cannot do without a strong and reliable frame.
Wooden panels	Facade panels made of natural wood with a thickness of 18-45 mm. The wood undergoes special treatment, as a result of which it becomes resistant to moisture, decay, and ultraviolet radiation. In addition, the flammability of the material is reduced. The disadvantages include the high cost of wood and a shorter service life compared to other types of panels.
Composite panels	The panel consists of two sheets of metal and a thin layer of polyethylene between them. The metal has an additional anti-corrosion coating. The thickness of the panels is from 3 to 6 mm, the service life is up to 20 years. The material does not fade in the sun, does not require maintenance, and is different high resistance to damage and weathering.
Glass panels	The material used is impact-resistant glass up to 6 mm thick. The panel can be transparent, matte, mirrored, with patterns and grainy texture. The material is durable, weather resistant, and very attractive. Disadvantages: high cost, difficult installation.

Metal siding installation principles

Fastening metal panels it is quite possible to do it yourself, despite the fact that the material is quite massive compared to vinyl and will require the installation of a frame

Before getting started, it is important to prepare the tools necessary for the work, which should include metal scissors, a screwdriver, a grinder and pliers. You will also need to stock up on the required number of fasteners - dowels and anchors

The installation process begins by taking measurements and developing a lathing scheme. To create it, you can use both wooden slats and metal profiles. The sheathing is attached to the base of the house, maintaining a distance between the profiles of at least 50 cm; prepared fasteners are used for installation. As an option, you can use a ready-made frame, which can be simply fixed to the facade without bothering with installing the slats separately.

The next stage of installing metal siding is thermal insulation of the facade. Insulation materials (expanded polystyrene or mineral wool) are attached between the sheathing and the base using adhesives and plastic dowels with wide caps. The panel frame is mounted on top of the insulation.

Installation of lightweight facade panels

The first step will be making the sheathing. It can be of several types, but the most important thing is to decide whether you need insulation under the façade elements or not. You need to remember that even if you live in a warm area, insulation not only serves to retain heat, but also protects from heat. It absorbs moisture from evaporation and moves the dew point beyond the walls of the house. Modern insulation materials are sound absorbers and carry part of the protective function of the façade system. This is only the main part of the advantages of organizing a facade with insulation. True, there is a drawback: the material costs from 200 rubles per square meter. On the other hand, if the walls require high-quality straightening, you cannot do without it. It’s better to follow the advice and construct a good ventilated facade on your house, then straightening the walls will not be necessary.

There are two types of battens

Manufacturing of sheathing

The sheathing can be made of metal and wood. For heavy slabs, for example, made of natural stone, glass or porcelain stoneware, a frame is required from a metal profile.

Let's take a metal grill as a basis. If you live in a warm area, then the vertical planks can be dug into the ground, but in areas where the soil freezes, you need to measure at least 40 cm from the ground and begin attaching the planks in increments of 91 cm or slightly less than the size of the insulation. When fastening slabs without insulation, horizontal strips are mounted to vertical strips without protrusions “flush”, the strapping pitch will be 46 cm.

Trim plan

Let's start installing the starting profile. It is mounted above the low tide, if there is one. In the case of a ventilated facade, the ebb is installed under the J-profile, into which the bottom layer of insulation is attached. Installation of the starting profile begins along the bottom bar of the frame strictly horizontally. Don't forget to measure the corner panels. Usually their sides are 10 cm, so the starting profile is mounted with a 10-centimeter offset from the corner. If the bottom edge of the slab requires trimming, then the starting profile is not used, and the cladding is screwed or nailed directly to the sheathing.

Lathing with starting profile

Installation of the first row

Attach the corner first. Now slide the first panel along the starting profile to the left until it fully joins the corner

Please note that the mounting pins must align correctly. Secure the slab and fill the connecting seam with sealant

Move to the next plate, moving from left to right. If necessary, cut slabs, being careful not to cut more than one mounting connection. Cutting of elements is done with a grinder or a saw with rare teeth. Adjust the saw stroke to avoid chipping. Cut the last panel to size.

Installation of the first row

Subsequent rows are attached according to the pattern of the first row. For “brick” facades, it is necessary to move the slab relative to the other in order to obtain a natural brick wall pattern.

Forming internal corners

To install internal corners, you can use a J-profile or cut the slabs according to size and pattern. Take two profiles and install them in the inner corner of the building. The fastening pitch is 15-20 cm.

The last row of panels ends with the fastening of the J-profile and flashing.

Installation of J-profile for internal corners

Step by step instructions

Before starting work, markings are carried out, since crooked panels do not look neat.
A waterproofing film is attached to the façade. Next steps depend on the panel manufacturer, read the instructions carefully; if you do not plan to insulate the space, you can immediately install metal or metal sheathing. Each manufacturer recommends different sizes of slats, so check the instructions for this.

Vertical slats 50x50 mm are fixed. To ensure that the finish holds well, install the slats at a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the house.
If necessary, the space between the slats is filled with insulation.
A 25x25 mm metal lathing is attached to install the panels.
Mount the starting strip according to pre-made markings. It should be secured with nails or screws every 30 cm. Leave 5-6 mm between the sheathing and the plank to avoid damage to the cladding when temperatures change.
Attach the J-profile to the corners of the building, installation step is 15-20 cm.
Installation of facade panels is carried out from left to right, according to the location of the tongue-and-groove elements. The walls are finished one at a time to avoid moisture until the end of the work. Each subsequent row is mounted with a shift of half or a third of the size of the elements. This promotes better adhesion and a natural appearance.
The outer panels are cut on the left side, but so that more than 30 cm remains. It is better to calculate this in advance in order to immediately trim the elements accordingly. The panels are cut so as to maintain the integrity of the design. Start cutting elements from the perforation side.
Nails or screws are screwed exactly in the middle of a special hole. It is not recommended to do them yourself; the panel may crack. If there is no way out, carefully drill a hole, and only then secure it. To avoid rust, choose galvanized or aluminum nails with a countersunk head of 6-8 mm and a stem diameter of 3-4 mm

The fastener pitch is 40 cm. Important: do not tighten the fasteners completely, leave 1 mm, since due to temperature changes the panels expand and contract, so deformation is possible.

When the installation of facade panels on one wall of the house is completed, a j-profile is attached to the top so that moisture does not get under the structure.
They fasten special parts for the corners of the house, door and window openings. Don't forget about low tide to rid the wall of excess water.

Strictly follow all the rules so that the finishing of the house remains intact for a long time. It is not difficult to install facade panels with your own hands, but it will not be easy for a beginner to secure the frame evenly. Buy building materials only from trusted sellers and check the quality of the goods, since there are many low-quality products on the Russian market. Consult on special forums and calculate the amount of materials in advance. Happy construction.

List of sources

• fasadam.ru
• stroykirpich.com
• ofacade.ru
• fasadoved.ru
• plotnikov-pub.ru
• levevg.ru
• abisgroup.ru

The following tools are used to install façade panels:

hammer, tape measure, level, fine-tooth hacksaw, Circular Saw, drill, screwdriver, hair dryer (if necessary).

For installation of Fineber basement siding (facade panels), the following fasteners are used:

galvanized nails or self-tapping screws with a countersunk head at least 30 mm long, leg diameter - 3-4 mm, head diameter - 6-8 mm.

Preparing walls and installing sheathing

Installation of facade panels is carried out on a wooden sheathing with a moisture content of no more than 15-20%, impregnated with fire-resistant and antiseptic compounds. The recommended cross-section of the sheathing bars is 45x30 mm. To install the outer corners, the sheathing slats are installed vertically at a distance of 10 cm from each outer corner of the building.

Between the vertical slats of the battens for mounting the panels, horizontal ones are installed, with the recommended distance between the lower lines of the main battens being 44 cm. To give the panels additional rigidity between the main battens of the sheathing, in the middle, it is recommended to mount a batten with a lower bar height (Fig. 1).

All sheathing slats must provide a flat surface in one plane.

Installation of FineBer facade panels and auxiliary profiles for them

Installation of panels on the walls of a building should be done horizontally, working from left to right, from bottom to top (Fig. 1). It is recommended to completely complete the installation of panels on one wall before moving on to the next.

Facade panels and auxiliary profiles for them change linear dimensions with temperature changes. In this regard, it is necessary to leave a distance between the vertical auxiliary profiles and the ends of the panels (when installing in the summer - a gap of 2-3 mm, in minus temperature- 4-5 mm).

A self-tapping screw or nail is fixed in the center of the perforation hole. The head of the fastener should barely touch the panel, allowing it to move as temperatures fluctuate. All fasteners are installed strictly perpendicular to the panel. Tilts and bends of fasteners are not allowed (Fig. 2).

When installing facade panels and auxiliary profiles for them in sub-zero temperatures (not lower than -10°C), it is necessary to keep all elements warm for 10 hours.

Cutting the elements of facade panels is done using a hacksaw with a fine tooth or a circular saw (the disk should have thin teeth installed in the opposite direction from the panel). It is necessary to start cutting the panel from the side of the perforations (Fig. 1).

Vertically located auxiliary profiles are fastened as follows: the first fastening element is installed in the upper part of the upper perforation hole, the rest - in the center of the perforation holes (Fig. 2).

If the foundation line is uneven, the facade panels of the lower row are cut from the bottom. In this case, the starting strip is not installed, and the bottom of the panel is fastened with nails or self-tapping screws through the drilled oval holes in the seams of the panel. The drilled holes should be similar to the perforation holes for the fasteners.

Sequence of installation of FineBer facade panels and auxiliary profiles for them

Installation of the starting bar.

The starting bar is installed strictly horizontally at the very bottom of the wall at a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the building (Fig. 1). A level is used to check that the bar is installed level and horizontal. The line for attaching the starting strip should be at the same level along the entire perimeter of the building. The starting bar is attached every 30 cm.

Installation of the outer corner.

First outside corner installed on the left corner of the wall. The bottom edge of the outer corner of the first row should be flush with the bottom edge of the starting bar. The outer corner is fastened as follows: the first fastener is installed in the upper part of the upper perforation hole, the rest - in the center of the perforation holes. It is not recommended to install more than two external corners at the same time.

Installation of panels.

The first panel is inserted into the starting strip and pushed into the groove of the outer corner with a gap of 2-3 mm (4-5 mm when installed in sub-zero temperatures, but not lower than -10°C). All L-shaped locks on the back of the panel must be latched onto the starter bar.

The edge of the panel that fits into the groove of the corner piece must be cut at a right angle. It is necessary to trim the first and last panels in the row (Fig. 1). It is recommended to assemble the panels in a row without securing them to mark the cutting lines. The last panel in a row should not be shorter than 30 cm.

The façade panels are attached to the sheathing through holes located in the second row from the top (Fig. 3).

Installing the last panel in a row.

The penultimate panel is attached to one fastener on the left side so that it is possible to bend the right side. Next, the last panel is inserted into the groove of the corner element. The panels are bent from the wall, joined and, by pressing the connecting seam, moved towards the wall. After which the panels are finally attached.

Installation of the next rows.

To install the next rows, the top panel is installed on the bottom and slides to the left, connecting to the previous one.

Installation of J-profile (or curb).

When designing internal corners, the J-profile (or border) is installed according to the drawing (Fig. 4, 5).

Design of window and door openings:

First, the J-profile (curb) is installed on the sides of the window or door opening. Then the J-profile (curb) is installed on the top of the window or doorway so that the end edges of the J-profile protrude a distance equal to the width of the J-profiles (curbs) installed on the sides. It is first necessary to make cuts in the upper and lower J-profile (Fig. 6).

When using a J-profile as a finishing element, a part with perforated mounting holes must be cut off on the panel that fits into the groove of the profile (Fig. 7).

The joining of façade panels with the J-profile must be carried out in compliance with a small temperature gap.

Installing a curb.

The border is installed on the panel at the point where the zones of the basement and the main facade of the building are separated and is attached to the wall (Fig. 8).

Next, when finishing the entire building with facade panels, the next row of panels is installed on the curb. When finishing the main facade with vinyl siding, a vinyl siding starter strip is attached over the perforations of the curb.

Installation of additional elements.

Fastening additional elements (shutters, canopy, etc.) on top of the mounted basement siding panels should be carried out to the sheathing through specially drilled holes of a larger diameter than the diameter of the fastening element leg (Fig. 9).

Not every homeowner allows it financial condition decorate the house with stone tiles or decorative bricks. It's not just the cost of materials, but also the complexity and high cost of installation. To insulate and give the house a more aesthetic appearance, there are special facade panels. Such panels have many advantages, including a low price.

Example of using façade panels

A clear example of what the facade looks like after installing the panels

The main advantage is easy solution in the improvement of the building. Panels are very simple products that have become popular due to their external qualities. They are able to turn an ordinary building into a beautiful and well-kept home.

The difference between facade panels, bricks and stones

The first thing you should pay attention to is the price. Facade panels are made of high-quality and inexpensive polymer. The production of such panels is much cheaper than the production of facade bricks and decorative stones.

Facade FineBer panels

Docke-R facade panels

Color of facade panels

The installation method differs. If for panels a few fasteners and screws are enough, then for brick and stone much more is needed. Stone and brick take much longer to lay, due to the nature of their installation - cement, sand, and water are required. In addition, the stones must be adjusted to each other. The panels are installed on a pre-installed frame. Various mineral wool and foam insulation can be installed underneath them.

What are the panels for?

First of all, the panels were invented not only as a means of decorating the facade of a building, but also as a way to hide additional insulation. Their main advantage is that in the space between the panel and the wall, where there are frame wastes, you can additionally put a layer of insulation.

Pie of insulation and facade panels

Unlike decorative stones and bricks, this method of improving the facade additionally insulates and allows you to retain heat inside the building. In addition, as already mentioned, the panels are very easy to install with your own hands, without the use of third-party equipment, materials and people.

Advantages of facade panels

This method of finishing the facade was invented as a cheap alternative. In addition, installing this kind of facade and accompanying structures yourself is much easier and faster than laying out a facade from tiles, bricks and other materials. In addition, the plastic from which the products are made is durable.

Convenience during use is also noted. This façade can be easily washed with water from a hose. In addition, this method of finishing the facade allows you to simultaneously insulate the building itself. Additional components or special panels are used.

Facade thermal panels

A significant advantage of polymer panels is that they can be given any shape and visual design. The panels are painted to match various materials - wood, bricks and stones. This is their versatility.

The most important thing is not only the low cost of the panels themselves, but also of the accompanying materials. The work requires a minimum of materials and effort. Disadvantages include the susceptibility of some products to mechanical damage. Another drawback is that if one of the components of the facade is damaged, it will be necessary not only to replace the corresponding part, but also to dismantle the entire facade. However, this is much better and cheaper than replacing and repairing a facade made from natural materials.

An example of façade finishing with panels

Panels imitate brickwork

Basic rules for installing panels

Before installing facade panels, you need to choose the material from which they will be made, design and shape. In addition, preparation also includes purchasing consumables (screws, dowels) and tools (screwdrivers, grinders, screwdrivers). Here the main advantage over brick and stone is observed - there is no need to purchase cement or sand.

In addition, the panel itself can not only decorate the walls of the building, but also the foundation. The building will look strong and, at the same time, an elegant monolith.

Tools for facade work

Next, you should take preliminary measurements of the house itself. This is necessary to determine the square footage of the panels and approximate the number of screws and dowels. After taking measurements, it would be best to draw out the approximate location of the panels and create the frame structure itself. This is a general scheme of work on installing the future facade of the house.

Calculation of facade panels

Schematically, the preparation looks like this:

The most important rule for installing panels is to follow the diagram. The first layer, the first panel laid down, is the most important part. If it is installed incorrectly, you will have to redo the entire structure in the future. A level should be used to determine the installation angle of each panel. In this way, it is possible to avoid uneven laying of panels.

Types of facade panels

Facade panels: types and variety of materials

Choose the material from which the panels will be made. Today, in addition to polymer panels, there are metal panels that are more durable. At the same time, plastic retains heat better. At this stage, the issue of the appearance of the facade is also decided. The panels can be stylized as wood, decorative brick, stone and much more. There are a huge number of design solutions.

These are the most popular and popular panels. There are certain differences not only in the material, but also in the installation of the facade itself. Each type of future facade will be different in appearance.

Installation of metal siding

Everything starts identically: materials are prepared, drawn schematically future design, installation is underway. The profiles are installed in accordance with the drawn diagram at right angles to the base of the house in increments of 50 cm. Support profiles must be secured with dowels.

Metal siding: installation on an aluminum frame

Remove disturbing elements from the building facade

After installing the vertical profiles, it is necessary to install transverse bulkheads. Here you will need to make tabs on each side of the panel for attaching to the profile. There are ready-made frames, but such structures have a clear drawback - they must be attached directly to the walls of the house. If the wall is made of foam concrete, then such a frame may collapse. It is also not recommended to install the frame on sand-lime brick. Red brick walls are also not suitable for a finished frame. In addition, such structures are more expensive than those installed by yourself.

Installation of vertical posts in a horizontal profile

Aligning the metal frame vertically and horizontally

We install additional vertical posts under the siding (based on the recommended dimensions of 40-60 cm)

The most common fastening of metal profiles to each other

Frame for siding

After the bulkheads have been installed, various types of insulation can be inserted into the resulting rectangles.

Laying insulation boards

Mineral wool can be attached with direct hangers

The insulation layer is covered with a wind-vapor barrier fabric

Once the insulation is installed, the panels can be secured to the frame. Each panel has holes for screws. This allows you to hide the seams and not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the facade.

Additional elements

Metal siding kit

Schematically the installation looks like this.

Stage 1. Drawing up a diagram of the house and the future frame for the panels.

Installation diagram

Stage 2. Cleaning the building of unnecessary decorative elements.

Stage 3. Production of an external frame on the walls of a building or installation of a ready-made one.

Stage 4. Installation of flashing, starting strip and the very first row of panels. A level is used to determine the correct angle.

Low tide installation

We fasten the ebb with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 40 cm

We install the planks with an overlap

Setting external corners

Fastening the inner corner

Installation of the starting profile

We screw in the screws in the center of the holes, check the tightness of the fastening by slightly moving the bar left and right

Installation of platbands on windows

Fastening the window profile

Stage 5. The following rows are installed followed by fastening to the frame.

We snap the first panel into the starting strip and fasten it to the sheathing with self-tapping screws

We insert the next panel into the locking part of the previous one and repeat the installation

Installation of metal siding

Stage 6. Installation of the finishing strip, soffits and decorative elements.

Installation of the finishing profile

We make holes in the last panel with a punch, snap the panel into the finishing profile

Installation of spotlights

In the future, similar installation elements are saved for each type of panel. This is also a plus of the panels - their installation is similar, which means you can easily learn how to install the facade.

Metal siding is a good option for a summer house and a one-story house. Such panels perfectly replicate the effect of wood. In addition, the products are perfectly processed without unnecessary tools. Easy care - just wash the contaminated part of the house with water.

Metal siding

File for download. Production of metal siding installation works

Instructions

Decorative panels for tiles (clinker)

A relatively new material that gives an aesthetic appearance to the facade and insulates the house at the same time. Such panels have two components - a base made of insulation and an outer covering. The coating can be stylized to resemble any material - brick, stone, etc.

Such panels are attached very quickly, using a simple method. For fastening you will need a spatula, construction adhesive, and a prepared frame. The latter is not necessary, since such panels can be mounted directly on the wall. The frame serves to install an additional layer of insulation.

Installation diagram

The panels are attached as follows: a solution of construction adhesive is applied to a notched trowel. Regarding the mortar, each tile manufacturer specifies the formula of proportions required for installation. The glue is applied to the product, which is applied to external wall or frame. Afterwards, the panel comes off after three minutes and is attached to the surface again. This method is necessary in order to increase adhesion strength.

The elements are fixed with glue

The levelness of the installation is checked by level

Between the joints, the panels can be sealed with construction adhesive, and for additional strength, the panels are secured with screws. The only drawback of such panels is their high cost. In return, you get not only a beautiful facade, but also a warm home.

Installation of thermal panels

Fixing elements

Seam filling

Most likely, this is the best option not only for improving the appearance of the building facade, but also for insulation. Such panels look the most attractive because they take on the appearance of various materials and products made from them. The house can turn into a stone fortress.

In addition, in the event of damage to one of the parts of the facade, there is no need to disassemble the entire structure. All you need to do is select the right size panel, remove the damaged one and install a new one.

The main recommendation is to install it in the warm season, since the glue may not harden properly at low temperatures, and the entire structure will not adhere firmly to the wall. Each manufacturer indicates on the packaging at what air temperatures it is most appropriate to mount the panel.

Video - Installation, insulation with thermal panels

Video - Installation of facade thermal panels (PPU) with clinker tiles

Fiber cement panels for plaster

Such products have a number of advantages over others:

• the weight of such products is insignificant, there is no load on the walls and frame;
• high thermal insulation. In addition, you can additionally install insulation between the frame and the panel;
• good condensate drainage. The walls of such a facade seem to “breathe”.

However, such panels are not without drawbacks. The most important of them is fragility. Products are subject to mechanical damage. At the same time, replacing one panel entails recycling the entire frame.

Siding under plaster

Characteristics of fiber cement panels

Panel options

Another advantage is the installation method. Such panels are installed in the same way as the above metal siding panels.

Installation diagram of fiber cement panels on a flat surface

Installation of fiber cement siding, diagram

Step by step, the entire installation looks like this:

• The installation site is being prepared. The facade must be cleaned and interfering decor must be dismantled;
• an installation diagram is created. The diagram is necessary for further planning of material purchases in order to accurately calculate the number of panels themselves, additional elements and fasteners;
• the frame is made. It can be wooden or profile. The frame can also be pre-ordered. Vertical racks must be installed at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Between them there are transverse ones;

  Frame for panels

• The first panel is installed from the bottom. Correct and level installation is the main stage in the work;
• panels are placed one by one and attached to the frame with screws;

  Photo - panel installation process

  Installation on a wooden frame

  Panel installation process

• insulation is inserted into the space between the wall and the panel. This can be mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Video - Installation instructions for façade panels

Wood siding

Perhaps one of the most expensive types of panels, but the most beautiful. The panels are made from pressed sawdust and treated with special solutions for strength and durability. However, if you do not take care of such a façade regularly (every two seasons), it quickly becomes unusable. In addition, this finishing method is only suitable for one-story houses, since the panels are heavy and the frame may not support it.

Wood siding

As with metal siding, wooden panels are attached to a prepared frame. Installation methods are identical:

• the frame is made of wooden blocks. But it is possible to install it from a metal profile to make the structure lighter. The first rack is installed at a right angle to the base of the building, and the rest after half a meter are parallel. Between them, racks are installed across;

  Layout of wooden sheathing for siding

• the wooden frame must be treated with insect and moisture repellents;
• the resulting space between the racks can be filled with insulation. Mineral wool is recommended for insulation, since it will not only retain heat in the house, but will also allow condensation to be removed;

  Block house wall cladding

  Technology of façade cladding with wooden siding

• The panels are secured to the frame using clamps or screws.

Wood siding for home decoration

The above panels can be replaced with longer ones. The advantage of such panels is that they are fixed directly to the wall one after another in a row. The length of such products is 6 meters. It's more quick way installations. But in order to carry out work on the facade, at least two people are needed. One person cannot do this job, as the panels may not be installed correctly.

In order to cut off the unnecessary part of the panel, it is recommended to use a grinder. It will most quickly cope with such a product and evenly cut off part of the panel.

The complexity of such products lies in their mass. It is best to call an assistant for installation. So, the process will be optimally fast and correct.

After installation wooden facade covered with a protective layer of paint

Polyvinyl chloride panels

PVC siding is the simplest and cheapest way to decorate the facade of a building. Such panels are popular for several reasons: ease of installation; low cost; Huge color options. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting that such panels are made of plastic and any facade will look plastic even from the farthest distance.

This type of panel is installed exclusively horizontally. To work, you will need a construction knife or any other knife. In addition, you will need a hammer drill. You will also need a level to determine the angle of the panels, as well as a hammer for driving nails.

Initial stage PVC installations panels is a preliminary inspection of the house. It is necessary to determine the location of the first row of panels. In the case of a new building, it is recommended to install the panels from the beginning of the foundation. Also, PVC panels can be installed from the initial row of the old finish.

Start of installation

Next, you should install the initial frame, namely: corners, both external and internal, platbands, first strips for attaching panels. Installation begins from the corners. The gap between them and the cornice should not be more than 6.5 mm.

The most important stage, on which the future fate of the entire facade will depend, is the installation of the first strip of panels. It is important to install the first strip of fasteners as correctly as possible, since the fastening of the panel itself depends on it. If the strip was laid evenly, then the panel will be even.

General provisions

It is necessary to install trims, ebbs and trims on windows and doors. And after the completed stages, the installation of all other rows of the facade begins. The top panel is inserted into the profile and hammered in with a nail, but not completely. There should be an interval of 0.4 cm between panels, and no more than 6 mm between other components. In order to avoid vertical overlaps, it is recommended to install the panels at half the factory mark. This way the joints will not be visible from the front side.

Sequence of installation of facade panels

When installing panels, you must remember that parts of the products will need to be cut off. A construction knife is used for this. A ruler and level are also needed to more accurately measure the angle and draw a straight line on the product. Draw a line on the panel in the place where you need to cut off the piece, and carefully draw it with a knife several times. The advantage of plastic is that it is ideal for such manipulations.

You must be extremely careful, since mechanical damage is very visible on such material.

Such panels are most in demand due to their ease of installation and low cost. Besides, PVC products They can be installed at various building heights because they are very light. Installation of such panels is simple and does not require much time.

The final step is to install the top row of panels. For the top row, only complete panels are needed. In addition, the last panel is closed with a special profile for drainage.

Video - Installation of basement siding

If you pay attention to the installation methods, there are no fundamental differences. There are certain nuances that should be taken into account when installing the panels yourself:

1. The bottom layer is the most important. An evenly laid or installed panel is the key to correct and successful operation. If installed incorrectly, there is a high probability of replacing the entire structure.

   Installing the first siding panel and properly engaging the profile lock

2. The frame is an important component. In addition to clinker panels, other products require a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, thanks to the frame, various insulation materials can be installed in the space between the wall and the tile.

   Wooden frame for siding

   The easiest way to insulate

3. The seams of the panels hide perfectly behind each other when installed correctly.

   Extension (joining) of siding panels along the length

4. The number of tools is minimal - you need a construction knife (preferably) to cut off excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, a level, a ruler. In addition, installing the panels will not take much time.
5. If you find it difficult to install the panel yourself, without a specialist, hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings.
6. Large field for design solutions. Most of the products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative brick. The house will look rich and elegant.

   Decorating the facade of the house

This is what a person needs to know if he decides to install the panels on his own. The process is not characterized by technical complexity. It is necessary to act carefully and carefully to achieve the desired result.

Comparison of different panels

There are both pros and cons of each type of facade panels. Everyone has strengths and weak.

Metal siding	1. Take different shapes. 2. Easy to install. 3. Durability. 4. Average price. 5. Stylization. 6. The most durable.	1. For a house there is no more than one floor, which is due to weight. 2. Metal bends easily. Replacing one component will require reworking the entire installed structure.
Clinker thermal panels	1. Lightweight material. 2. Equipped with insulation. 3. Easy to install. 4. Installation speed. 5. Various decor options.	1. High cost. 2. Subject to mechanical damage.
	1. The cheapest of all. 2. Various panel colors. 3. Lightweight material.	2. Not the best option for decoration.
Wood siding	1. Durable and beautiful material.	1. The most expensive option for facade panels. 2. For a one-story house.
Siding under plaster	1. Reasonable price. 2. Excellent heat-saving qualities.	1. Subject to mechanical damage.

The fundamental differences will be in the price and durability of the products. Of course, each of the above options has its own individual characteristics, why such panels are chosen.

Aspects of choosing façade panels

It is worth noting that the panels are created not only to improve the appearance of the building, but also to hide various types of insulation. Moreover, the panels allow you to hide not one, but even two or three layers of insulation. It all depends on the type of product, the height of the frame and the correct installation.

In addition, panels can and should be used to insulate not only residential premises. Such a move as insulation and the use of panels for the facade of the building is used on industrial enterprises. For large premises This is a huge plus in terms of heat savings inside the building. For industry, PVC panels are most in demand due to the price-quality ratio.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the place of work. Elements need to be dismantled storm system, lamps and more. This is necessary in order not to damage the panels themselves and related products.

Installation of panels must be careful. They must slide on top of each other to easily position the corresponding panel in the correct position. After all the panels are installed and secured, the result is obvious - a smooth and beautiful wall.

How to attach siding

It is not necessary to seal the resulting overlaps. It would be most correct not to use such sealants, since they will disrupt heat exchange and the removal of condensate from the building.

A knife is one of the most necessary tools. With its help it is necessary to adjust the length of the panels. In the case of metal siding and wooden panels, the knife is replaced with a grinder. It must be remembered that even corners are necessary for the correct joint of the panels.

Panel cutting

Siding cutting

After installing the facade, the most important thing is maintenance. If you care for the panels properly, the structure will not lose its appearance and will last for a very long time.

Brick-like facade panels

Video - Procedure for cladding a house

Fasteners FineBir basement siding is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws or stainless steel nails. The length of the leg must be such that it penetrates into the sheathing (base) material to a depth of at least 3 cm. The diameter of the leg is 3 mm, the diameter of the cap is 9 mm.

Base. To install FineBer basement siding, sheathing is used. It is placed horizontally, in increments of 44 cm. (Attention! For the “Wild Stone” series - the distance between the lower edges of the first and second slats is 43.5 cm, between the remaining slats is 44 cm. For the “Large Stone” and “Facing Brick” series - the distance between the lower edges of the first and second slats is 42 cm, between the remaining slats 44 cm. For the “Natural Stone” series - the distance between the lower edges of the first and second slats is 40.4 cm, between the remaining slats 42.4 cm. For the “Brick” series " and "Rock" - the distance between the lower edges of the first and second slats is 41.6 cm, between the remaining slats 43.6 cm.) Separately, sheathing bars are attached along the perimeter of door and window openings, at corners, along the lower and upper edges of the cladding area. The lathing is assembled from 40x40 mm bars, the wood moisture content is no more than 15-20%. The bars are pre-impregnated with fire and bioprotection. To make the cladding more rigid, additional horizontal slats are attached in the center between the main bars. All bars and battens of the sheathing must form a flat surface. Thermal insulation is placed between the bars.

Attaching basement siding. FineBer facade panels have perforated mounting holes. When fastening, the legs of nails or self-tapping screws must fall strictly into their center, enter perpendicular to the plane of the cladding without tilting or bending. The fastener head should not touch the surface of the material (leave a temperature gap of 1-1.5 mm, see Fig. 4). Each panel is attached at least at five points. When attaching J-profiles and internal corner elements, the spacing between fasteners does not exceed 25 cm.

Temperature gaps. Basement siding and components for it can change linear dimensions due to temperature changes. To avoid temperature deformations, during installation, provide gaps between the cladding elements (ends of panels and vertical profiles, slats). When installed in summer they are 5-6 mm, in winter - 9-10 mm. Westmet specialists do not recommend installing façade panels at temperatures below -10°C. If the installation is carried out at sub-zero temperatures, all cladding elements must first be kept in a warm room for 10 hours. When installing vertical strips and profiles, the top fasteners are placed at the upper edge of the mounting hole, all other fasteners are placed in the center of the mounting holes (see Fig. 6). The listed requirements are met in order to compensate for the compression and expansion of the material during temperature changes and to prevent their deformation, warping, and cracking.

FineBir facade panels are installed horizontally, from the left edge of the wall to the right, as shown in Fig. 3.

Installation procedure

• starting bar;
• external corners, auxiliary components;
• ordinary panels.

Starting bar. Installed along the bottom edge of the cladding. When installed, it is located horizontally, at the same level along the entire perimeter of the building (installation lines must coincide at all corners). The bottom edge of the plank coincides with the bottom edge of the first batten of the sheathing. At the edges of the walls, 30 cm from each corner, the plank is interrupted by 30 mm to provide a temperature gap (see Fig. 1). The plank is fastened every 30 cm or more often.

Facing without starting strip. If the foundation line is uneven, the starting bar is not installed. Basement siding is attached to the sheathing, having previously been cut in place from below. To fasten the lower edge of the panels, oval holes similar in shape to the factory perforations are pre-drilled in their seams.

External and internal corners. The outer corner is attached to a vertical sheathing bar. The first fastener is made through the upper perforation hole so that the element “hangs” on it. Subsequent fasteners are placed in the center of the holes on both sides. The bottom edge of the corner element should not reach the starting strip by 5 mm. External corners are assembled along their length from several elements. They are connected to each other and fastened in the center of the perforations (Fig. 3.). Each corner element is attached to at least three points on each side (6 fastenings in total). They are not fixed rigidly to the sheathing; a gap is left between the head of the screw or nail and the surface of the corner so that it can move freely during thermal expansion.

The internal corner is universal; it is attached to the sheathing through perforation holes on the internal perpendicular joints of the walls. The facade panels are fixed in the grooves so as to obtain an even joint (see Fig. 5).

J-profile. Installed along the perimeter of window and door openings, along the upper edge of the cladding as a finishing element (Fig. 6, 7).

Installation of facade panels. The first row is placed on the starting bar. On the back side of the basement siding there are L-shaped locks, with the help of which they are connected to the strip. The first and last element in the row is cut at a right angle. When installing one row, the panels are assembled without securing them to mark the cutting line. They are made so that the last panel is no shorter than 30 cm. The cut pieces can be used as the beginning or end in the next rows (Fig. 2).

The left edge of the first panel in the row is placed at an outer corner. To do this, it is cut at a right angle. When fastening, the lower edge of the trimmed panel is inserted into the starting strip, the panel is moved to the corner, leaving a temperature gap. The next one is inserted into the starting strip and connected to the previous one with grooves, pushed in until it stops, as shown in Fig. 2, 3.

If shutters, a canopy, and other additional elements are installed on top of the cladding, they are fastened into the sheathing bars. Mounting holes similar to perforation holes are pre-drilled in the cladding.

For Fineber series “Stone”

For Fineber series “Stone Wild”

For Fineber series “Large Stone”

For Fineber series “Natural Stone”

For Fineber series “Brick”

For Fineber series “Facing brick”

For Fineber series “Rock”

For Fineber “Slate” series

The basement of the building and the entire façade must be reliably protected from the destructive effects of water, wind, sudden temperature changes and all kinds of mechanical damage. For the external cladding of the basement and walls of the house, the Moscow company Terna Polymer, founded in 2001, developed FineBer siding.

The polymer coating contains special stabilizers and modifiers that increase its strength and durability. FineBer is one of the best polymer coatings in Russia.

The covering skillfully imitates wild stone, brickwork and slate. Plinth panels are perfectly combined with modern materials for finishing facades. They can be used for decoration individual elements buildings: doors, windows, portals, columns, balustrades, as well as the entire facade.

FineBer siding allows you to reliably protect the base of the house, give the building originality and respectability with minimal financial costs

The advantage of FineBer basement siding

Facade panels from the FneBer company from Terna Polymer are deservedly in high demand.

Features of FineBer basement siding are:

• The injection molding method makes it possible to produce siding with relief, which has increased impact strength and is stylized to resemble natural materials. The polymer coating does not rot, does not corrode, and does not crack. FineBer siding is adapted to Russian frosts.

• Uniform and durable coloring. Facade panels are painted with two-component water-based dyes, which are resistant to ultraviolet radiation and aggressive chemical influences. Painting is carried out in 2 stages (paint application and high-speed drying) using automated equipment.

• Water resistance. Mold will not appear on the surface of the polymer cladding and there will be no salt stains.

• Ease. Unlike natural stone, basement siding does not load the foundation of the building.

• Respectability. Wide choose textures and color palette. The color of the polymer coating is as close to natural as possible. Basement cladding is combined with popular finishing materials. Houses lined with FineBer facade panels acquire a complete appearance; they harmoniously fit into the architectural ensembles of cities and towns. Siding colors are as close as possible to natural tones.

• Environmental friendliness. The polymer coating does not emit harmful substances.

• Compliance with fire safety standards.

• Easy to install. You can do the installation yourself. Basement siding is used to protect the base, window/door openings and corners of the house, as well as to decorate the entire facade. The façade panels are supplemented with functional additional elements.

• Easy to care for. The vinyl covering does not absorb grease, and dirt is washed off from the covering with plain water from a garden hose.

• The warranty period is 20 years.

• Affordable price.

Collections

Wild stone

• colors: terracotta, gray-green, sand, pearl, white coated;
• length and width of the plinth panel: 1117x463 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Large stone

• colors: terracotta, sand, white coated;
• length and width of the plinth panel: 1080x452 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Stone

• colors: terracotta, brown, brown, gray-green, beige, white coated;
• panel length and width: 1085x447 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Facing brick

• colors: yellow, ceramics, red;
• length and width of the plinth panel: 1125 x488 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Brick

• colors: red, brown, beige, white coated;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Slate

• colors: terracotta, sand, beige, white coated;
• length and width of the plinth panel: 1137x470 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Rock

• colors: terracotta, sand, beige, coated white;
• length and width of the plinth panel: 1094x459 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Facing brick BRITT

• colors: dark burgundy, dark pink (York), burgundy, brown-black;
• plinth panel length: 1130x463mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Additional elements

• A border 3030 mm long. Necessary for decorating the transition from the basement to the facade of the building. It is used to decorate door/window openings.

• The starting bar is 3030 mm long. securely fixes the first row of polymer panels; it is completely hidden behind the panels.

• J profile length 3030 mm. Used for sealing joints, as well as for decorating corners, door/window openings.

• External corners 470 mm high and 115 mm wide..

Installation

Installation of FineBer facade panels for the plinth must be carried out according to the instructions. For work you will need: tape measure, level, hacksaw, screwdriver, hammer, drill, circular saw, self-tapping screws, galvanized nails.

FineBer plinth panels are mounted on a natural wood frame (bar cross-section 45x30 mm). A metal profile is used to clad the façade of the building.

Installation on walls starts from the bottom, performed horizontally, from left to right. The starting bar is mounted 10 cm from the corner, after 30 cm, on on a single level around the entire perimeter. The lower edges of the outer corners are attached flush with the bottom of the starting bar.

The first panel of basement siding is inserted into the starter strip and pushed into the groove of the outside corner. Locks on the back of the panel snap onto the starting bar.

The siding is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws using perforations. The screw head cannot be driven in tightly; there should be a small gap between it and the panel so that the siding does not undergo deformation during temperature fluctuations.

Window and door openings are decorated using J profiles and borders. The border is installed on the panel and attached to the wall at the junction of the plinth and the main facade. To cover the entire building with façade panels, a new row of basement siding is installed on the curb.

Video instructions for installing siding with your own hands.

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