Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels. Installation of facade panels - how to properly attach basement siding? Basic rules for installing facade panels

Finishing the facade of the house is the final stage construction work. And the appearance of the building is very important, because the first impression will depend on it. Every owner of a private house wants his home to look beautiful and neat, but, alas, not all building materials that are used today can be left untouched. Often it is necessary to carry out additional finishing of the facade. One of the most affordable and simplest options are façade panels for exterior finishing walls - they allow you not only to give the walls a neat appearance, but also to protect them from negative environmental factors.

Description, pros and cons of panels

Characterized by their diversity, they can be used to decorate not only private homes, but also industrial/production facilities. As a rule, panels are used for cladding wooden and timber houses, as well as buildings made of foam blocks and other materials that are not attractive and resistant to environmental factors. The panels add attractiveness to the walls and protect them. There are options that imitate stone/brickwork and other natural materials that make the house look solid and beautiful.

To the benefits facade panels can be attributed:

• good noise and heat insulation characteristics;
• resistance to natural influences;
• the possibility of finishing walls made of any building material;
• long service life;
• ease of installation;
• attractiveness;
• low probability of mold development and rust.

We also note that the panels can be divided into several groups depending on a particular indicator. Let's get to know them.

1. Panels can be classified by appearance.
2. In their shape they can be in the form of planks, rectangular, modular, etc.
3. They are also distinguished by the installation method.
4. Finally, the panels may or may not have a thermal insulation layer.

On a note! In addition, the panels are classified according to the material from which they are made. We will talk about this in more detail later.

Metal panels

They are popular, but for some reason they are rarely used to decorate the facades of residential buildings. This is explained by the fact that when it rains, drops loudly hit the surface of such panels. In reality, this is not the case - yes, the panels can make noise, but if there is a thermal insulation layer and proper sound insulation, then the problem will disappear by itself. Therefore, it is quite possible to sheathe not only sheds and garages with metal panels, but also residential buildings.

Stainless/galvanized steel and aluminum can be used for manufacturing. The latter option is preferable, despite the lower strength and higher cost. The panels can also be perforated and smooth. Their surface is coated with special polymers that protect the metal from the influence of natural factors.

Note! To the advantages metal panels include ease of installation, durability and reliability.

By the way, not so long ago other options appeared on the market - zinc and copper panels (they can be patinated or coated with plastic).

Metal panels do not burn; they can withstand considerable mechanical loads. However, there is still a risk of rusting, and thermal conductivity indicators will not contribute to keeping the house warmer.

PVC panels (polymer)

Such panels, as the name suggests, are made from high-quality polyvinyl chloride. The material is resistant to sudden temperature changes, for a long time retains its original appearance, can imitate almost any natural material. In addition, there is nothing complicated in installation.

Note! Such panels can be either basement or façade.

PVC panels are very popular due to their low cost. They are fastened with self-tapping screws and connected to each other with special edge locks. The result is almost invisible joints between the elements.

There are also panels with micromarble - this is more resistant to temperature influences and more durable material, containing fiberglass and concrete. Such panels weigh little and are not afraid of low temperatures, moisture, or mechanical stress. Install as easily as regular plastic panels.

Composites

Products from porcelain stoneware They are durable, resistant to moisture and ultraviolet radiation. They look solid and attractive and are easy to clean. Concerning aluminum composite panels, they are not cheap, but they are very durable and resistant to various kinds of negative influences. They consist of 2 sheets of aluminum separated by a polymer layer.

Panels from clinker may have a thermal insulation layer whose thickness reaches 80 mm. They weigh a lot, which makes installation difficult. Can be:

• self-supporting (large solid blocks with openings for windows and doors);
• decorative (used to decorate insulated walls, do not have a heat-insulating layer);
• insulated.

Clinker looks beautiful, is durable, environmentally friendly, easy to repair and maintain. Often used for finishing industrial facilities, garages, and plinths.

Panels from fiber cement characterized by the presence of special polymer fibers in the composition. They are not cheap and have a long service life. They increase the level of noise and heat insulation of the building and protect against severe frosts.

Note! Fiber cement products invented in Japan can be used in all regions of the country.

You can install them yourself; there is nothing complicated here. However, the weight of the panel is significant and it is easy to drop it and damage it. It is also worth mentioning the environmental friendliness of the material - the slats do not emit any harmful substances into the air when heated.

Finally, such panels can be mounted on any base.

Glass panels

An excellent modern material, which is rarely used to decorate private homes - glass panels are mainly used to decorate office buildings. The material includes fiberglass - tempered, reinforced or laminated. The strength of the coating depends on the processing method. A good option for insulating a house, because such panels accumulate part of the thermal energy of the sun.

On a note! Remember that glass panels are purely decorative material that does not strengthen the building in any way or increase its strength.

The peculiarity of glass panels is that they are perfectly combined with other coatings, including wood, metal, and concrete. They also allow you to implement any design solution, but installing them is quite difficult.

Sandwich panels

This is not exactly a decorative finishing material, since such panels consist of three layers - two metal and another - a polymer heat-insulating layer that separates them. Typically, one such sheet of metal (galvanized or aluminum) has a thickness of only 0.5 mm.

They are light in weight, durable and easy to install. In addition, they additionally insulate the building, and therefore there is often no need to install insulation. The material also has good noise insulation characteristics. Self-tapping screws are used for fastening. As for the joints between the panels, they can be sealed with both special overlays/planks and special compounds.

Comparative characteristics of the described panels

Let's take a look at some key characteristics of popular panel types. We will not consider all the properties; if you wish, you can learn about them from the manufacturer’s instructions. But the table below will definitely help you roughly navigate all the diversity.

Table. Comparison of some types of facade panels.

Name	Durability	Physical parameters	Temperature	Lifetime
Porcelain tiles	Resistant to the sun, chemicals, mechanical stress and temperature changes, does not burn	Weight – 3-16 kg/sq.m., thickness reaches 12 mm		50 years
Fiber cement	Resistant to rotting, low temperatures, does not burn or fade	Weight – more than 16 kg/sq.m., thickness – no more than 15 mm, noise absorption – 29 dB	No more than 100 freezing cycles	20 years
Sandwich panels	Resistant to rotting and corrosion processes	Bending strength – 24.3 MPa	Within -180 - +100 degrees	30 years
Polyurethane	-	-	Within -50 - +110 degrees	From 30 to 50 years
PVC	Resistant to fire, moisture, rot and direct sunlight	Weight – no more than 5 kg/sq.m.		30 years
Wood	Resistance to mechanical damage	Bending strength – 45 MPa, sound insulation – up to 30 dB	No more than 100 freezing cycles	From 10 to 15 years
Metal	Resistant to corrosion, rot, open fire, low temperatures and chemicals	Noise absorption – 20 dB, weight – from 7 to 9 kg/m2, thickness is only 0.55 mm	Within -50 - +50 degrees	Over 30 years

Step-by-step instructions for installing facade panels

As an example, let's look at the process of installing facade panels that imitate stone - they are quite popular and are often used when decorating private houses.

Step 1. In our example, we use Alta panels, the installation of which involves the use of:

• square;
• screwdriver;
• screwdrivers;
• hammer drill;
• metal saws;
• twine, chalk;
• building level;
• sharp knife;
• roulettes.

Step 2. You should start with the sheathing. In our example, a special facade fastening system is used, but in essence it is the same profile, only plastic. First of all, metal hangers are installed on the walls (necessary for fastening the profile), fixed with dowels. It is necessary that there be no more than 40 cm between one vertical row of hangers and the adjacent one.

Step 3. Markings are made to determine where the linings will be fixed on the profile (the finishing elements will be attached to the latter). The profile is applied to the wall at the location of the hangers, and the points of its intersection with them are marked. First of all, installation should be carried out in the area of ​​corners, door/ window openings.

Step 4. Overlays are installed on the sides of the profile (needed to attach hangers) and snap into place. This way the elements will “sit” tightly.

Step 6. The profile is installed along the perimeter of the facade, leveled. Self-tapping screws on special hangers are used for fastening. It is also important to use a level so that the plane to which the panels will be attached is perfectly level.

Step 7 If several profiles are joined in height, then the upper one should not be placed tightly on the lower one. For such a connection, there are special antennae at the joints.

Step 8 Then the wide flat profiles required for mounting the panels directly are installed. For this purpose, marking is carried out using a laser level or twine. It is important that the elements below are located at the same level.

Step 9 In the area of ​​openings and corners, corner elements made of metal are attached. It is important that the angle is 90 degrees. A block is installed under the corner itself, thanks to which the entire structure will be stronger.

Step 10 In a similar way, profiles are mounted along the entire facade.

Step 11 Then slopes are simulated by installing metal profiles around the perimeter of the openings, to which iron corners are fixed on one side. The second side will be mounted on the profile. To make the structure more durable, a block is also installed in the corner.

Step 12 The starting elements for installing the panels are mounted - slopes, platbands, corners.

Step 14 Then the panels themselves are attached. If necessary, they are trimmed so that the upper part is parallel to the horizon. You only need to cut the bottom part of the panel!

Step 15 Elements should be mounted from bottom to top and from left to right. The first panel is also trimmed.

Step 16 The element is installed in the profile, secured with self-tapping screws on the side and top. In the example, they are screwed exactly into the center of the perforation. There is no need to tighten them all the way, so that the panels will “move” somewhat.

Step 17 The second panel is joined to the first using locks, and then also secured with self-tapping screws. The entire range of facade elements is installed in the same way.

Step 18 The last panel of the row is cut to the required dimensions and then installed.

Step 20. The panels are fastened and, if necessary, trimmed. It is important that the vertical joints of the rows do not coincide.

On a note! If other panels are used to finish the base, after installing the base row, a flashing is installed, then another starting profile is installed, after which the walls themselves are sheathed.

Video - Installation of plinth panels

Video – Ekviton facade panels

Facade panels are often used for exterior decoration of houses. Which is not surprising, because with their help, even an old wooden or concrete building can be quickly, easily and inexpensively transformed into something truly beautiful and original. Moreover, all the work can be done with your own hands, as you could see for yourself when reading this article. Good luck with your work!

Facade panels are used for exterior finishing. Installation can be carried out either with the involvement of a specialized team or independently.

The appearance replicates the finishing with natural materials - brick, stone, etc. The strength of the material allows such panels to be installed not only on the main part of the facade, but also on the plinth.

Installing a house using facade panels is an economical and practical solution. Unlike installing metal ones, installing facade panels made of plastic is easier due to their light weight and does not require a large number of additional elements. However, installation is fraught with risks. Therefore, it is important to follow the basic rules for installing facade panels.

Key rules for installing curtain panels for facades.

• The panels are mounted from left to right, from bottom to top.
• The screws must be fastened strictly in the middle of the hole, without screwing them in all the way.
• There should be small gaps between the panels, approximately 2 mm. Façade panels must not be fastened tightly together!

These rules are determined by the thermal compression/expansion of panels in different times of the year. It is important to ensure free movement of the panels. Otherwise, the façade of the building will “lead” and the panels will begin to move away from the walls.
“YAFASAD” panels are provided with temperature notches, as well as places for fastening screws.

We have provided several design features for the convenience of installing facade panels yourself. The video will tell you about them.

Transportation and storage

In order for facade panels and additional elements to serve you for as long as possible, you must follow the rules of transportation and storage:

• Facade panels can only be transported in covered transport, and packages of products must fit in the body and not protrude beyond its length;
• During transportation and storage, products must be stacked in the following order: at the bottom are packs with panels, on them are packs with additional elements;
• When unloading, it is prohibited to throw packages of products;
• The panels can only be stored and transported in their original packaging, in a dry room, protected from direct sun;
• Storage areas must be well ventilated;
• Storage temperature should be in the range from -65°C to + 50°C;
• It is prohibited to store packages of products near heating appliances;
• If you plan to store façade panels for a long time, you should store them on racks or pallets. The maximum number of packages in height is 5 pcs.

Required Tools

Installation of facade panels does not require a large number of tools. It is enough to prepare a tape measure, a level, a rope, a hammer, nails, scissors for cutting panels, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, and a screwdriver.

Installation stages

Surface preparation

One of the advantages of façade panels is the year-round possibility of installation. However, in very coldy(-15°C and below) installation of plastic facade panels is prohibited. This type of cladding can be installed on any type of building.

First, you need to free the facade from decor, debris, old coating - anything that could interfere with installation. Then you need to decide where the first row of panels will be located. If the house is old, you can take the beginning of the previous finishing as a guide. If the facade is being installed on a new house, we recommend installing the facade panels from the beginning of the foundation.
Next we mark the lower edge of the facade. To do this you will need a cord and a level. Use them to draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the house.

Installation of sheathing

There are two types of sheathing: wood and metal. If you decide to use wooden slats, make sure that they are treated with special impregnations to protect them from fire, pests, mold, and rot. Metal sheathing is more durable, its design ensures better ventilation facade. We recommend using the Grand Line GK profile for installation of façade panels. Optimal thickness metal - 0.5 mm.

The sheathing slats are installed vertically (Fig. 1). The pitch between the axes is 300-400 mm (Fig. 2). The lathing is laid completely around the window openings, at the corners, at the lower and upper points of the facade.

If you plan to install façade panels with insulation, place it in the spacer between the sheathing slats.

Installation of additional elements

Before installing the facade panels, it is necessary to install decorative elements. They cover doorways, windows, corners. To frame the interior corners, you will need two 7/8-inch universal J-profiles. A J-profile is also installed along the top edge of the facade to install the final row of panels.

Installation of the starting profile

The starting strip is installed horizontally along the bottom of the facade, which you marked earlier. In this case, you need to make indents of approximately 10 cm from the corners for future installation of corner strips.

Installation of the universal J-profile

To decorate corners

To arrange the internal corner you will need 2 universal J-profiles. Installation should start from the top. Fasten the screws in the special holes without pushing them all the way. Using a level, check the evenness of the profiles. Secure the additional element along its entire length with self-tapping screws in increments of 150-200 mm.

For edging the top edge

The J-profile must be secured with self-tapping screws to the sheathing in the upper part of the facade. The pitch of the screws is 300-400 mm (corresponds to the pitch of the sheathing).

Installation of corners of façade panels

To install the radius strip, you need to screw self-tapping screws into the top of the panel on both sides. Make sure that the plank hangs level and fasten the screws along the entire length of the additional element in increments of 200-400 mm. Then install the set strips into the radius strip (Fig. 3, 4, 5) and secure them to the wall with self-tapping screws (Fig. 6).

Place the starting elements along the bottom of the facade. They should be placed in increments of 300-400 mm (along the sheathing slats) (Fig. 7).

Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels. Step-by-step instruction

Installing the final panel in a row

Top row installation

Most likely, to install the panels of the top row you will have to cut them in height. To do this, measure the distance from the previous row to the J-profile (its inner part). Subtract 5-7 mm from this figure (Fig. 21). Mark this distance on the new panel and trim off the excess.

Now the finished panel must be installed in the panel lock of the previous row. Then carefully bend and insert into the J-profile (Fig. 22, 23). Repeat the same steps with the remaining panels.

Facade care

• You can wash the façade using water from a hose.
• Do not use high pressure washers for cleaning.
• It is also prohibited to use aggressive chemical substances and abrasive cleaners.

Facade panels vary depending on season installation work: installation can be done in any weather, even at subzero temperatures. This feature is due to the fact that installation is carried out using frame technology and mechanical fastenings. Let's look at the stages of work in more detail.

Installation of sheathing

Depending on the chosen cladding material, the lathing is installed:

1. Wooden frame for light panels (plastic, steel sheets).
2. For heavier facade slabs (for example, made of fiber cement), a frame is constructed from galvanized profiles or profile pipes.

Installation of the frame is carried out in the following sequence:

• Vertical guides are installed. The step between them should be kept at 50–60 cm.
• Then horizontal strips are installed in the places where additional elements are attached: external corners, J-profile and other parts.

Advice! Thermal insulation material can be placed between the frame slats to additional insulation facade of the house. It is best to use sheet materials based on polystyrene foam or basalt wool slabs.

Installing the starting bar

After the frame is mounted, they begin to install the starting profile. Its installation makes it easier to install the first row of panels and allows you to accurately maintain the horizontal line. When installing the initial plank, you need to carefully check its evenness using a building level. Also, you need to retreat about 10 cm from the corners of the house to install external corner elements.

Panel installation

An important rule for installing any facade panels is that installation is carried out from left to right. There are various methods for installing finishing slabs, differing from the material of manufacture

Let's look at the main options:

• PVC structures are attached using construction stapler or small screws and nails (on a wooden frame).
• The steel panels are attached to the sheathing using metal screws.
• For installation of most heavy structures, metal clamps are used. They are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.

Having completed the installation of facade panels, additional cladding elements are installed:

• external corners;
• installation of a J-profile for edging door and window openings;
• installing a finishing strip to prevent rainwater from getting behind the skin.

All these additional elements add completeness to the cladding and serve to create an aesthetic appearance.

Advice! To install thermal panels, there is usually no need to install a frame. Due to the thick layer of elastic insulation, such panels perfectly hide minor irregularities in the facade. Fastening is done using long self-tapping screws with plastic dowels directly to the outer walls of the house.

Installing panels is an excellent choice for cladding the facade of a house. In addition to their wonderful appearance, such slabs allow you to insulate the house and reliably protect the walls from moisture. This facing material is very popular due to its lightness and speed. installation process, a huge range of textures and a variety of shades.

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Unipan facade panels Chania

Unipan facade panels (Chania) are products of Chinese manufacturers. The original name of the material - Chania - could not be registered, since there is a Greek city of the same name and confusion is possible.

In the current situation, a decision was made to rename the material. This is how the Unipan brand was born.

The material is a sandwich panel consisting of three main layers:

• Galvanized metal sheet.
• Polyurethane foam filler.
• Thermal and waterproofing layer.

The production technology involves the process of “hot melting” of components - injection of liquid polyurethane foam between two outer layers. After hardening, the result is a firmly interconnected block with a successful set of performance qualities and allows for easy and quick installation of the sheathing sheet.

The metal front layer has a relief corresponding to the texture of the simulated material - stone or brickwork and so on. Smooth panels with photo printing are also available.

The peculiarity of such panels is the joining method, which is absolutely similar to the principles of joining internal wall panels: one longitudinal edge is a ridge, and the opposite is a groove. To connect, you only need to insert the ridge of one panel into the groove of another, which is accessible even to a completely untrained person.

The ease of installation eliminates the possibility of errors, and the tightness of the connection creates a sealed fabric that is resistant to external moisture, rain or melted drops, and wind.

The surface has a relief that replicates the texture of stone or brickwork, wood cladding, etc. In addition, there are several color options, expanding the possibility of choosing and implementing different design ideas.

Installation of metal siding

Everything starts identically: materials are prepared, the future structure is drawn schematically, and installation is carried out. The profiles are installed in accordance with the drawn diagram at right angles to the base of the house in increments of 50 cm. The supporting profiles must be secured with dowels.

Metal siding: installation on an aluminum frame

Remove disturbing elements from the building facade

After installing the vertical profiles, it is necessary to install transverse bulkheads. Here you will need to make tabs on each side of the panel for attaching to the profile. There are ready-made frames, but such structures have a clear drawback - they must be attached directly to the walls of the house. If the wall is made of foam concrete, then such a frame may collapse. It is also not recommended to install the frame on sand-lime brick. Red brick walls are also not suitable for a finished frame. In addition, such structures are more expensive than those installed by yourself.

Installation of vertical posts in a horizontal profile

Aligning the metal frame vertically and horizontally

We install additional vertical posts under the siding (based on the recommended dimensions of 40-60 cm)

The most common fastening of metal profiles to each other

Frame for siding

After the bulkheads have been installed, various types of insulation can be inserted into the resulting rectangles.

Laying insulation boards

Mineral wool can be attached with direct hangers

The insulation layer is covered with a wind-vapor barrier fabric

Once the insulation is installed, the panels can be secured to the frame. Each panel has holes for screws. This allows you to hide the seams and not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the facade.

Additional elements

Metal siding kit

Schematically the installation looks like this.

Stage 1. Drawing up a diagram of the house and the future frame for the panels.

Installation diagram

Stage 2. Cleaning the building of unnecessary decorative elements.

Stage 3. Manufacturing an external frame for the walls of a building or installing a ready-made one.

Stage 4. Installation of flashing, starting strip and the very first row of panels. A level is used to determine the correct angle.

Low tide installation

We fasten the ebb with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 40 cm

We install the planks with an overlap

Setting external corners

Fastening the inner corner

Installation of the starting profile

We screw in the screws in the center of the holes, check the tightness of the fastening by slightly moving the bar left and right

Installation of platbands on windows

Fastening the window profile

Stage 5. The following rows are installed followed by fastening to the frame.

We snap the first panel into the starting strip and fasten it to the sheathing with self-tapping screws

We insert the next panel into the locking part of the previous one and repeat the installation

Installation of metal siding

Stage 6. Installation of the finishing strip, soffits and decorative elements.

Installation of the finishing profile

We make holes in the last panel with a punch, snap the panel into the finishing profile

Installation of spotlights

In the future, similar installation elements are saved for each type of panel. This is also a plus of the panels - their installation is similar, which means you can easily learn how to install the facade.

Metal siding is a good option for the dacha and one-story house. Such panels perfectly replicate the effect of wood. In addition, the products are perfectly processed without unnecessary tools. Easy care - just wash the contaminated part of the house with water.

Metal siding

File for download. Production of metal siding installation works

Instructions

What are facade panels

There is no need to confuse facade panels and siding, although their purpose is the same - cladding the external walls of the house. Facade slabs appeared relatively recently and are actively replacing other methods of protecting buildings from atmospheric and other influences. They are thicker and more durable than siding. Materials for the production of such cover for external walls have also significantly expanded the range. Today, facade slabs are used both for full coverage at home and for basement cladding. Their demand is simple to explain: this type of façade design replaces many natural materials, but is much cheaper.

House finished facade slabs, protected and beautiful

Types of facade panels

There are numerous types of facade slabs on the market:

• Polyvinyl chloride

An inexpensive cladding option that can be mounted on a lightweight frame or directly on the wall, taking into account the ideal surface. The variety of shapes and colors can please any owner. The disadvantage is the lack of vapor permeability and fragility. Frost resistance is not too high, so it is not worth using such cladding in the Far North. Many types of vinyl planks are flammable, and most release harmful substances when burned.

• Fiber cement

They are made from concrete and wood fibers using synthetic additives, which are a binding component. Durable, environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable, non-flammable fiber cement cladding of facades has conquered the market in many countries. Imitation of natural materials not only in appearance, but also in terms of quality characteristics. The wood-look material has the warmth of natural wood, but does not burn or rot.

• Wood fiber boards

They are used mainly for light country houses and summer cottages, as they have significant disadvantages: flammability, susceptibility to rotting. But these are some of the most frost-resistant materials - up to 100 cycles, they do not crack and are environmentally friendly.

• Made of metal with PVC lining

They are made from galvanized steel or vinyl-coated aluminum. Easy to use and install, especially cassette types. Durable, not susceptible to rotting, well protect the house from noise, dust and moisture. Disadvantage - the material does not breathe, outer covering subject to combustion, considerable cost.

• From porcelain stoneware

This facade material It is characterized by high strength, resistance to all types of fungi and damage. Porcelain stoneware slabs look expensive and stylish. Such facades give the impression of wealth and protect the house from any outside influences. Lack of panel weight. Carrying out cladding alone is quite difficult.

• Glass panels

We are used to associating glass facades with large shopping centers or office buildings, but glass is increasingly in demand among those who want to give the walls of their mansion a stylish and sometimes fantastic look. Impact-resistant, often bulletproof glass of class A and B is used. Reinforced glass, triplex glass, and glass made from glass granulate foam are used. The advantages of such walls are their beauty and unusualness. Lack of difficult installation and high cost.

• Thermal panels

The thermal panel design consists of a thick layer of polyurethane foam or polystyrene coated ceramic tiles to protect the material from external influences. Such protective facades have many advantages: high heat and noise insulation, durability, frost resistance, impact resistance. The simplicity of the tongue-and-groove fastenings makes it easy to install such cladding.

• Sandwich panels

They consist of two layers of metal, between which a plastic layer and a vapor barrier layer are pressed. This is an excellent sound insulator. Withstands any temperature changes. Such slabs may have different surface. Not susceptible to corrosion and fungus. Operating temperatures from -180 to +100 degrees.

Variety of cladding for external walls

Finishing a building with facade slabs has more advantages than disadvantages, and therefore let’s immediately talk about the disadvantage. The fastening of the facade panel is always carried out on a special frame, and therefore the production of such facades requires knowledge and certain experience. In addition, the cost of many materials is quite high. The advantages of wall cladding with these finishing materials are obvious:

• Protecting your home from high and low temperatures;
• Long term of use from 20 years and above. Most materials have a service life of 50 years or more;
• Protects walls from fungus and rot;
• Resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• Most of the slabs are made of non-flammable and environmentally friendly material;
• Resistant to corrosion.

Facade panels. Main advantages of the material

Facade panels are made in the form of small slabs, which, based on the type of structural pattern, can imitate natural wood, stone, brick, etc. This finish looks simply luxurious and, with proper installation, can last for several decades. If we talk about the main advantages of this type of cladding, then it is worth highlighting the following:

• Easy to install. Panel slabs are assembled into one continuous structure using the most common set of tools. The material is lightweight and has locks on the end sides, so installation of façade panels can be carried out using a minimum number of craftsmen.
• Environmental friendliness. The panels do not contain components harmful to human health, which makes them possible to use for the external cladding of buildings and structures of any type.
• Long service life. Facade panels are resistant to temperature changes and seasonal precipitation. Besides this material has a high degree of strength and does not fade when exposed to direct sunlight. Thanks to these features, facade panels last a long time and do not lose their original appearance and protective properties throughout their entire service life.
• Acceptable price. Regardless of the modification and type of structural pattern, modern facade panels have a very reasonable cost. The use of such material allows in a short time and with minimal financial costs improve the appearance of the facade of any building.

Basic rules for installing facade panels

Like anyone else facing material, facade panels have their own rules for installation. If you want the finishing of the building to last long years and at the same time has not lost its original appearance, when starting to install the panels, consider the following:

• Before starting work on installing the panels, you must carefully read the manufacturer's instructions.
• In order to eliminate the possibility of deformation of the slabs under the influence of temperature changes, self-tapping screws should be screwed into the perforation areas without excessive force. Ideally, to allow for thermal expansion, the distance between the surface of the slab and the screw head should be 1 millimeter.
• Plates of facing material can only be fastened using stainless steel self-tapping screws.
• If, in accordance with the instructions, the panels must be mounted on a wooden sheathing, then its surface must first be opened with a protective solution that prevents the formation of mold and mildew.
• To create a high-quality and reliable sheathing, it is better to use a galvanized steel profile.
• Depending on the type of façade panels, they are installed from left to right or from bottom to top. For horizontal installation, prepare vertical lathing and, conversely, when installing the slabs vertically, a horizontal frame is created.
• During the installation of façade panels, you will have to cut the slabs. To eliminate the possibility of damage to the protective coating on the front part of the material, we do not recommend that you use an angle grinder or other tool operating at high speeds.

If you are not entirely sure that you can install facade panels on your own, then it is better not to risk it and contact us right away. Specialists of the MSK-Roofing company will carry out all stages of building cladding in strict accordance with the technology, thanks to which the facade panels will last for many years and will not lose their neat appearance and integrity.

Selecting lathing for panels and its installation

The sheathing for the panels is the supporting structure. Its configuration is usually complicated by the presence of insulation, which must be installed between the slats. Therefore, for work, a material is selected that is most convenient to work with and is sufficiently strong and durable.

The traditional type of lathing is a system of wooden planks. This option is acceptable, but requires straight, dried planks, which should be soaked with an antiseptic immediately after installation to avoid rot, mold, etc.

More a good option the construction of metal sheathing is recognized. Metal guides are used for plasterboard sheets. They are straight, the galvanized surface prevents corrosion processes, installation and adjustment of the plane is much easier than when working with wooden blocks.

In some cases, metal and wooden planks, which is sometimes convenient for complex surface configurations.

Installation procedure:

1. Cleaning the wall outside the house, complete surface preparation- putty, (if necessary), primer, drying the surface.
2. Marking the wall for load-bearing elements- brackets or straight guides.
3. The sheathing for Deke panels has both horizontally and vertically directed strips. Therefore, if you need to install insulation under it, you need to build your own sheathing. It is needed to install supporting strips for panels on top of it.
4. Installation of insulation is carried out between the strips of the primary sheathing. A layer of waterproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation.
5. A load-bearing frame is installed on the primary sheathing strips. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm to ensure the required ventilation gap. Vertical strips are used for mounting corners and sides of panels. Horizontal ones serve as a supporting surface for starting and J-planks, the upper sides of panels, and other elements of the canvas.
6. The pitch of the horizontal strips corresponds to the height of the panel, the pitch of the vertical strips is half its length.

The main task when installing the sheathing is to ensure that the sizes of the panels and the distances between the planks match, as well as to ensure the presence of a flat plane, which makes it possible to obtain the correct geometry of the sheathing sheet.

Decorative panels for clinker tiles

Relatively new material, giving an aesthetic appearance to the facade and insulating the house at the same time. Such panels have two components - a base made of insulation and an outer covering. The coating can be stylized to resemble any material - brick, stone, etc.

Such panels are attached very quickly, due to simple way. For fastening you will need a spatula, construction adhesive, and a prepared frame. The latter is not necessary, since such panels can be mounted directly on the wall. The frame serves to install an additional layer of insulation.

Installation diagram

The panels are attached as follows: a solution of construction adhesive is applied to a notched trowel. Regarding the mortar, each tile manufacturer specifies the formula of proportions required for installation. The adhesive is applied to the product, which is applied to the outer wall or frame. Afterwards, the panel comes off after three minutes and is attached to the surface again. This method is necessary in order to increase adhesion strength.

The elements are fixed with glue

The levelness of the installation is checked by level

Between the joints, the panels can be sealed with construction adhesive, and for additional strength, the panels are secured with screws. The only drawback of such panels is their high cost. In return, you get not only a beautiful facade, but also a warm home.

Installation of thermal panels

Fixing elements

Seam filling

Most likely, this is the best option not only for improving the appearance of the building facade, but also for insulation. Such panels look the most attractive because they take the form various materials and products made from them. The house can turn into a stone fortress.

In addition, in the event of damage to one of the parts of the facade, there is no need to disassemble the entire structure. All you need to do is select the right size panel, remove the damaged one and install a new one.

The main recommendation is to install in the warm season, since the glue may not harden properly when low temperatures, and the entire structure will not adhere firmly to the wall. Each manufacturer indicates on the packaging at what air temperatures it is most appropriate to mount the panel.

Video - Installation, insulation with thermal panels

Video - Installation of facade thermal panels (PPU) with clinker tiles

Panels with decorative tiles

Facade thermal panels

Such panels are a novelty in the field of finishing materials. They consist of a base (mostly compressed foam) and an outer decorative coating. The panels perform two functions simultaneously:

• insulation of the house;
• imitation natural stone.

There are no significant disadvantages, except perhaps the high cost.

Expanded polystyrene facade panel

Corner thermal panels

Installation technology

Finishing the facade with such decorative panels is the simplest and fastest siding option. This became possible thanks to special grooves that allow you to securely fix the joined panels. No seams are visible.

Thermal panels

The panels are installed with construction adhesive applied with a notched trowel. Manufacturers indicate the proportions in which the adhesive solution is prepared on the packaging.

Panel installation

Gluing occurs as follows: the panel is applied to the wall, after three minutes it comes off, and after another two it is glued again. This improves the stability and adhesion of materials.

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Important! If the panel does not stick when re-applied, it means that the adhesive mixture is not suitable or was not applied in sufficient quantity. .

Installation is carried out in rows, moving from bottom to top. This way the bottom row will support the top row. After laying one row, take a half-hour break to allow the glue to dry (it will take a day to dry completely), the optimal ambient temperature is 20-25? C.

Wood siding

Wood siding

Such panels can only be used for finishing one-story buildings due to their impressive weight. Despite the special impregnations with which the products are treated, the first care will be required within a few seasons after installation. If handled properly, this siding will last for decades.

Installation technology

As with metal siding, there are two options:

• install the panels yourself;
• buy a ready-made design.

Self-cladding happens as follows.

Stage 1. First, the frame is assembled from wooden beam. The first rack is attached perpendicular to the ground, all subsequent ones are installed in the same way in half a meter increments. After this, the transverse racks are installed. Instead of wood, the frame can be built from a metal profile.

Installation of sheathing

Stage 2. The frame (if it is wooden) is treated with stain and antiseptics to protect it from insects, precipitation, wind, etc.

Important! Vertical posts cannot be placed directly on the ground - you need to make special linings, otherwise the tree will absorb moisture from the soil and will soon rot. . Stage 3

The space between the posts is filled with mineral wool.

Stage 3. The space between the racks is filled with mineral wool.

Insulation with mineral wool

Stage 4. The panels are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The finished design vaguely resembles a suspended ceiling. Installation procedure in in this case quite simple.

Stage 1. The outer guides are attached.

Stage 2. Then step by step, equal to length boards, internal ones are installed.

Stage 3. Siding is inserted between the guides. The first stripe is installed, the second, the third, etc.

Stage 4. After this, the top row is leveled and covered wooden frame for fixation.

Wood siding installation

This installation option has significant disadvantages, including the almost complete lack of thermal and noise insulation.

Important! There is another type of wood panels - long-strip siding. It consists of sheets six meters long, which are fastened with dowels or liquid nails not on the frame, but directly on the wall. A minimum of two people are required for installation.

We install the first facade panel with our own hands

We fasten the facade panel

Often the walls of a building are uneven, so first you need to fix the starting bar at the lowest point of the building. Leave a gap of 10 centimeters at each edge of the wall to install the outer corner. To screw in self-tapping screws, holes are made in the frame at intervals of about 40 centimeters. Carefully ensure that the first plank is horizontal; the correct fastening of all subsequent panels depends on it.

If necessary, the bottom row panels can be trimmed circular saw. To do this, you can use a circular saw, using a blade with thin teeth, installing it in the opposite direction. When cutting a panel to required height Adjust the direction of saw movement to minimize chipping.

If trimming of the bottom panels is necessary, the starting profile is not used. In this case, the panels are simply secured through the front surface in inconspicuous places, driving at least 5 nails into one panel. Before driving nails through the face, pre-drill holes for the fasteners.

The second row of panels is installed and moved on top of the previous one, allowing for a small gap for the expansion of the material. The same method is used to install all subsequent rows. Try to constantly check the level of the corners - they should always be level with the panels.

When you reach the top of the front, you may need to trim the last row to height. Try to trim the material carefully so as not to damage the protective layer. Otherwise, the performance of the panels and their appearance will deteriorate. To finish internal corners, you can use a J-profile. Before installing the corner, level the panels with vinyl plastic or aluminum tape.

Conclusion

The protected facade of the house lasts several times longer, and the beautiful one is also pleasing to the eye. Facade panels cope well with these tasks, being an aesthetic, practical and inexpensive finishing material. Separately, it is worth noting the ease of installation work.

A high-quality frame and proper fixation of the starting profile are the main part of the matter. When installing the panels themselves, only care and accuracy are important. You must also not forget about the thermal expansion of the material, to compensate for which it is necessary to maintain expansion joints between sections and gaps between the caps of the fixing elements and the finishing surface.

Installation of heavy facade panels with your own hands step by step

Installation of heavy facade elements is carried out in a different way. It is impossible to simply attach a fiberboard or porcelain tile to a starting profile without additional fasteners. Therefore, the progress of work is as follows.

• First of all, we construct the sheathing. It is necessary to calculate the number and types of profile strips, brackets and fasteners.

Important! You cannot use a galvanized profile for gypsum boards! The facade is too heavy for this metal. It is necessary to purchase a special reinforced profile

Wall surface prepared for fastening facing material

We install the brackets on which the vertical profile will then be attached. The size of the working part of the bracket is calculated from the thickness of the insulation. After laying the thermal insulation, we install vertical profiles. Mount the main and intermediate profile. The main one should be located at the junction of the plates, and the intermediate one in the middle. The step is calculated based on architectural features building design and wind load: the size between profiles is usually 40-60 cm. Horizontal strips have a pitch corresponding to the panel dimensions.

• The next step is to install the lower ebb at a distance of 40 cm from the ground and attach the starting profile or clamps. Clamps or metal clamps are designed not only for fastening, but also for creating an expansion joint.
• Next, we begin fastening the first row. The thicker the facing material, the more responsible it is necessary to approach the work. Fastening of facade elements made of porcelain stoneware and other weighty structures more than 15 mm thick is carried out using clamps or internal fastenings. The plates are connected in accordance with the instructions and drawings. Fastening with clamps

• After installation, all joints are sealed with sealant and thoroughly cleaned. To avoid damage to the surface, the joints are taped with masking tape, which is subsequently removed.
• The design of the top row must be done with the formation of a ventilation gap, which is typical for all ventilated facades. To do this, a U-shaped profile and ebb are installed. The same thing is done below. This will ensure proper air circulation. Top and bottom connection

• The formation of external corners is usually already provided for by the manufacturer. This can be done without seam-to-joint trimming or with trimming. The corner can be applied metal corner which will need to be painted. In any case, the kit includes sealant and paint to match the color of the main cladding.

Important! When installing, do not forget to leave 3 mm between the plates on thermal expansion! The ends are protected with a special sealant, which should be included in the kit.

Installation of corners

If you pay attention to the installation methods, there are no fundamental differences. There are certain nuances that should be taken into account when installing the panels yourself: . The bottom layer is the most important

An evenly laid or installed panel is the key to correct and successful operation. If installed incorrectly, there is a high probability of replacing the entire structure. Installing the first siding panel and properly engaging the profile lock
The frame is an important component. In addition to clinker panels, other products require a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, thanks to the frame, various insulation materials can be installed in the space between the wall and the tile. Wooden frame for siding The easiest way to insulate
The seams of the panels hide perfectly behind each other when installed correctly. Extension (joining) of siding panels along the length
The number of tools is minimal - you need a construction knife (preferably) to cut off excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, a level, a ruler. In addition, installing the panels will not take much time. If you find it difficult to install the panel yourself, without a specialist, hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings. Large field for design solutions. Most of the products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative brick. The house will look rich and elegant. Decorating the facade of the house

1. The bottom layer is the most important. An evenly laid or installed panel is the key to correct and successful operation. In case of incorrect installation, there is a high probability of replacing the entire structure. Installation of the first siding panel and correct engagement of the profile lock
2. The frame is an important component. In addition to clinker panels, other products require a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, thanks to the frame, various insulation materials can be installed in the space between the wall and the tiles. Wooden frame for siding

   The easiest way to insulate

3. The seams of the panels are perfectly hidden behind each other when installed correctly. Extension (joining) of siding panels along the length
4. The number of tools is minimal - you need a construction knife (preferably) to cut off excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, a level, a ruler. In addition, installing the panels will not take much time.
5. If you find it difficult to install the panel yourself, without a specialist, hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings.
6. Large field for design solutions. Most of the products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative brick. The house will look rich and elegant. Decorating the facade of the house

This is what a person needs to know if he decides to install the panels on his own. The process does not differ in technical complexity

It is necessary to act carefully and carefully to achieve the desired result.

Wood siding

Perhaps one of the most expensive types of panels, but the most beautiful. The panels are made from pressed sawdust and treated with special solutions for strength and durability. However, if you do not take care of such a façade regularly (every two seasons), it quickly becomes unusable. In addition, this finishing method is only suitable for one-story houses, since the panels are heavy and the frame may not support it.

Wood siding

As with metal siding, wooden panels are attached to a prepared frame. Installation methods are identical:

• the frame is made of wooden blocks. But it is possible to install it from a metal profile to make the structure lighter. The first rack is installed at a right angle to the base of the building, and the rest after half a meter are parallel. Racks are installed crosswise between them;Device diagram wooden sheathing under siding
• the wooden frame must be treated with insect and moisture repellents;
• the resulting space between the racks can be filled with insulation. Mineral wool is recommended for insulation, since it will not only retain heat in the house, but will also allow condensation to be removed; Wall cladding with block house

  Technology of façade cladding with wooden siding

• The panels are secured to the frame using clamps or screws.

Wood siding for home decoration

The above panels can be replaced with longer ones. The advantage of such panels is that they are fixed directly to the wall one after another in a row. The length of such products is 6 meters. It's more quick way installations. But in order to carry out work on the facade, at least two people are needed. One person cannot do this job, as the panels may not be installed correctly.

In order to cut off the unnecessary part of the panel, it is recommended to use a grinder. It will most quickly cope with such a product and evenly cut off part of the panel.

The complexity of such products lies in their mass. It is best to call an assistant for installation. So, the process will be optimally fast and correct.

After installation, the wooden facade is covered with a protective layer of paint

Transcript

1 INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLATION OF FAÇADE PANELS “HANYI” Required Tools: 1. Screwdriver 2. Tape measure 3. Level 4. Metal scissors 5. Square 6. Hammer (punching holes for fasteners) 7. Jigsaw with metal file Surface preparation. Installation of CHANYA panels can be carried out in any weather conditions. The wall surface does not require special preparation. To level the plane, if necessary, you can use a galvanized metal profile 60 x 27 and straight hangers (they are used when installing drywall). The profile is installed at intervals of cm (vertically or horizontally, depending on the method of fastening the panels)

2 Installation. A starting strip is used to attach the first panel. The installation location of the starting bar is determined at the lowest point of the foundation. In this case, the starting bar must be strictly horizontal (with horizontal fastening of the panels). The first panel is installed on the starting bar, covering the starting bar, and attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. Each subsequent panel, when installed, covers the fasteners of the previous panel.

3 Corner elements (external and internal) are used to design corner joints of panels. They are connected to each other by a tongue-and-groove locking element. In addition, corners can be used at the junction of the vertical wall of the gable and the lower part of the protruding roof, window, doorways etc. When connecting panels at corners and joints, it is recommended to leave a temperature gap of 3-5 mm between them.

4 The connecting strip closes the connection of the panels at the end. It is fastened as follows: between the end edges of the panels, a U-shaped aluminum guide is fastened with self-tapping screws, which is the mating part of the connecting element lock, and then the connecting element itself is inserted into it with a little force. The elements are connected to each other along the length by a tongue-and-groove lock. A finishing strip is used to cover the cut and fasten the last panel.

5 Calculation of the area of ​​the material. When calculating the material, to total area walls need to be added 5% to the cuts; if the building has a complex architectural configuration - 10%. To find out the number of starting strips, you need to subtract the sum of the door widths from the perimeter of the building. In order to find out the number of external and internal corners, you need to measure the length of the external and internal corners of the building and divide by 0.38 m (this is the length of the corner element) and increase to a whole number. This way you will receive the required number of elements. Calculation of the need for a connecting profile. Find the sum of the heights at the places where the panels join and also divide by 0.38 (this is the length of the joining element) and increase the resulting number to an integer. Cutting. To cut the panels, you can use a hacksaw with fine teeth or electric jigsaw. Since the metal is coated with an aluminum-zinc protective layer, it is damaged when sawing or drilling panels. We recommend treating areas damaged by sawing or drilling protective equipment: enamel by Storage. CHANYA panels do not require special storage conditions. Fastening material. To attach the panels to the sheathing, it is recommended to use 9.5 mm galvanized self-tapping screws. For installation 100 sq.m. About 1000 panels will be required. Maintenance of CHANYA panels. CHANYA panels are a durable material. Once installed, it requires no further investment. All you need to maintain the beauty of your home is to wash it once a year using a regular garden hose. If the material is heavily soiled, you can use a simple non-abrasive detergent. If all installation and maintenance recommendations are followed, CHANYI panels will delight you for many years.

Features of panel installation

Polypropylene facade panels Deke have specifications, close to most plastic sheathing samples - vinyl, acrylic, etc.

Accordingly, the conditions of installation work, in particular the mandatory observance of thermal clearances, are equally relevant for Deke panels.

The fact is that a continuous sheet of sheathing, being tightly assembled without gaps, will begin to expand when heated and will go in waves. In some cases, destruction of nail strips is possible - strips along the edge of the panel with oblong holes for fixing to the base using nails or, more often, self-tapping screws.

In order to avoid damage or disruption of the appearance of the skin, it is imperative that temperature gaps - gaps between all contacting elements of the skin - be observed. This condition is especially relevant for elements that require longitudinal joining (for example, starting strip, J-bar, etc.).

For the same reasons, nails and screws cannot be driven in/tightened all the way. About 1 mm is left between the head and the part to allow movement when changing sizes. The holes in the nail strips have an oblong shape.

The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle so that there is the possibility of slight movement in one direction or another. The only case when this rule is violated is the installation of vertical elements (for example, corner strips). For them, a self-tapping screw in the upper hole is installed at the top point so that the part does not fall down. The remaining screws are arranged according to the general pattern.

NOTE!
The size of the temperature gap depends on the installation temperature. For a hot summer day, 2-3 mm is enough, for a cold winter day - at least 6 mm.

Types of facade panels and specifics of their installation

• Fiber panels and Japanese fiber panels

They consist of cement, reinforcing fibers and mineral fillers. They are characterized by a high level of resistance to external influences and good flexibility.

Such panels are attached to an already attached frame (if we are talking about 14 mm panels), to a wall or to the load-bearing frame of a building (16 mm panels and larger). Thin panels are fastened with galvanized screws, thicker ones are secured with clamps.

Fiber panels are installed on a frame, which, in turn, is fixed to the wall with brackets through paronite (it will help minimize the load on frame structure at the time of precipitation). Insulation is placed between the cells of the frame, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.

Additional workflow levels: the base ebb is fixed to the frame (5-10 cm above the blind area);

Clamps for installing slabs are placed on all vertical guides.

A joint strip is made to correctly position the slabs relative to each other.

Fiberboards are put on the clamps located below and secured with fasteners. All joints are treated with sealant and painted to match the color of the panels.

• Installation of plastic panels.

To install them, it is also necessary to remove the previous finishing of the house and remove any unevenness. Then the walls need to be marked with lines clearly vertically and horizontally at a distance of 50-70 cm. The lathing can be wooden or metal, it is reinforced in the area of ​​windows and doors. The grid cells are also filled with insulation and vapor barrier film.

The specificity of the work is that plastic panels are mounted from the corner of the building and from the bottom row, by connecting locks and attaching them to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.

• Installation of metal panels. Facade (siding)

They are distinguished by an increased level of strength and a polymer protective coating. Siding requires metal sheathing, which is attached to the walls with perforated hangers.

Insulation is placed in the cells, but it is necessary to provide for such an aspect as the possibility of ventilation of the facade, otherwise the condensation formed under the metal will begin to destroy the wooden surface.

Siding is installed from the bottom corner part.

• Installation of facade panels: thermal panels.

Installation begins from the left corner in the starting profile, the clamps are fixed onto the spikes, to which the next thermal panel is attached.

• Sandwich panels. Installation. Frame house facade

This name is no coincidence, since the panel contains 3 layers, one of which is insulation.

Such panels are not easy to install alone: ​​first, a U-profile is attached, into which the first panel is inserted, and a frame from the corner of the building. Everything is leveled, the slab is attached directly to the frame.

For longitudinal seams you will need a sealant, for transverse seams - mineral wool and polyurethane foam. Subsequent panels are secured from above with locks.

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Polyvinyl chloride siding

Plastic facade panels Nailite (Naylayt)

PVC panels are a cheap and easy-to-install method of finishing a facade, characterized by a wide range of models and, therefore, a lot of possible design solutions. The only drawback is the appearance. From a close distance, even with the naked eye it is noticeable that the house is covered with plastic.

Vinyl siding

Installation technology

PVC panels are installed only horizontally. To work you will need:

• perforator;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• level;
• punch - a tool for making ears on the edges of sheets of material.

Stage 1. First produced visual inspection home, the location for installation of the first row is determined. This row should coincide with the old finish or cover the top of the foundation (if we are talking about a new building).

Stage 2. All necessary components are installed - internal and external corners, trim, first strip, etc. You should start from the corners, leaving a small gap of 6.5 mm between them and the eaves of the building.

Stage 3. Installation of the first row is the most critical stage of finishing the facade, on which the evenness of the entire siding depends. First, the boundary of the first row is determined, after which a horizontal line is drawn on the wall. When installing the first strip, this line will serve as a guide.

Important! There should be a gap of 1.27 cm between the ends of two adjacent panels. Stage 4

The appropriate accessories are installed on the door and windows - trims, flashings, final trims. For greater accuracy, the strips of material are joined at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Stage 4. The appropriate accessories are installed on the door and windows - trims, flashings, final trims. For greater accuracy, the strips of material are joined at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Fastening vertical elements

Stage 5. The remaining panels are installed from bottom to top, focusing on the first row. Each panel is inserted into the profile and nailed (not completely). The interval between panels should be 0.4 cm, and between them and other components - from 0.6 cm to 1.25 cm.

Parts are attached with a gap

The panels are overlapped one on top of the other by ½ of the factory mark, while vertical overlaps should be avoided - they are more noticeable from the facade.

Stage 6. At the top edge, the sheets are installed in the same way as under the windows. Only whole panels are used; trimming is possible only for gables. During installation last row used J-profile with ø6 mm holes made in 0.5 m increments (to drain water from the roof).

Installation technology of external wall panels

We will talk about constructing a façade from single-layer polyvinyl chloride cladding elements. The panels are mounted on an uneven base on a frame made of galvanized metal profiles.

Facade wall panels can be installed at almost any temperature. Installation is prohibited only in severe frosts, when the thermometer drops below -15°C. Facade cladding work consists of several stages:

1. Preparation.
2. Lathing for mounting panels.
3. Fastening of facade panels.

Preparation

Work on preparing the foundation must be completed before installation of the supporting frame begins. Excess elements, such as an external unit for an air conditioner, are removed from the facade. The flashing and lining of the slopes are removed from the windows. If the facade is wooden, then it must be treated with an antiseptic to inhibit the processes of decay and fungal development. If the facade is stone or concrete, then such treatment is not necessary.

Cladding without insulation does not require a vapor barrier membrane. If external lighting is planned, then the wiring is carried out at the preparation stage.

Lathing for mounting panels

The sheathing for the façade panels can be made of wood or a U-shaped profile. The second option is preferable, since the galvanized profile does not corrode or collapse. It does not need to be further protected.

On a flat base, it is possible to mount the profile directly on a bare wall. If the facade is curved, then a frame is mounted under the facade panels.

The frame consists of brackets and load-bearing profiles. Using brackets, the frame is leveled. The profile is mounted on the pre-marked surface of the facade. Marking is carried out using a laser level and measuring tape

The first horizontal element is installed 50 mm from the ground. The starting strip for the façade panels is attached to it. The installation step of the vertical guides is 500-600 mm, and the horizontal ones depend on the height of the facing element. Horizontal guides are made of J-profile. For fastening, self-tapping dowels are used with a pitch of 300-400 mm.

Facade panel fastenings

Installation of façade panels starts from bottom corner strictly from left to right and from top to bottom. The first row is installed on the starting bar. The left end, which goes to the corner, is cut exactly at a right angle. Then it is secured with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the nail holes and the body of the wall. The second panel is connected to the first to the junction of the temperature compensators and secured in a similar way. To increase the strength of the structure, the panels can be glued to the starting strip with polyurethane foam.

The construction of a facade from single-layer and multi-layer panels can be done with your own hands. The work is not particularly difficult if the rules and technologies are followed. The facade panels will be complemented by a wide range of additional elements that allow you to hide minor flaws of a novice installer.

Installation of facade panels video

Now let's look at the process step by step:

• We install a substructure made of metal or wood (depending on the requirements of the facade slab manufacturer). To do this, we mount a guide bar at the very bottom of the entire structure, drill holes in it for self-tapping screws at a distance of 30–40 centimeters. There should be a gap of slightly more than 10 centimeters on each edge of the wall for subsequent installation of the outer corner. It is very important that the guide strip is attached to the wall strictly horizontally. This is the beginning of all installation work, and the slightest unevenness at this stage will make the geometry of the entire facade incorrect.
• After the plank is fixed and secured, it is necessary to install the outer corners on the adjacent walls. A J-profile is installed around doors, arches, and windows. A gap of 0.5–1 centimeter is made between this profile and the panel, which is necessary for further expansion and contraction of the panels when the temperature changes.
• Once the frame is in place, we move on to installing the panels. If the sheets need to be cut for this, then the cut edge should be placed on the left, and the straight edge should be left for further strong adhesion to the next panel. The panel sheet is inserted into the strip and moved to the outer corner. After using a building level you make sure that the sheet is fixed evenly and it fits snugly against the corner, you can fasten it with self-tapping screws.
• From the first sheet, which will serve as a kind of guide for you, continue installing subsequent sheets. In this case, the following should be taken into account: the corners must be at the same level as the facade panels.
• Before installing the panels, the facade is covered with a layer of thermal insulation and a waterproof and windproof membrane. Not everyone does this. We advise you to be sure to surround the house with good thermal insulation material. After all, the main function of facade panels is to insulate the house. For this it is best to use basalt mineral wool- this is the most reliable and safe material, which is characterized by increased durability and non-flammability. Some consider it possible to reduce the cost of thermal insulation and choose fiberglass or expanded polystyrene, but the fire resistance of these materials is significantly lower. The waterproofing material will protect the insulation from getting wet. Please note that during installation work, insulation without waterproofing cannot be left on outdoors for a few days. Otherwise, the cotton wool will absorb too much moisture and will not be able to effectively perform its functions. In a situation with the choice of waterproofing, some are also inclined towards purchasing an economical film, but such a choice cannot be justified. Be sure to provide a ventilation gap that will prevent condensation from forming on inside sheets of facade panels.

High-quality facade panels are quite difficult to distinguish from natural materials

At first glance, it may seem that the above sequence of actions is quite simple and does not require any construction skills. However, this work requires care, and the most common mistakes are made at the very beginning of the work - when the plank is installed incorrectly, when one of its edges goes up or down.

The main thing is the correct marking and horizontal frame.

Subsequent installation of the sheets will take place quite quickly. However, we advise you not to rush to install the panels and double-check the position of each sheet before fastening it. We recommend reading the article about.

Polyvinyl chloride panels

PVC siding is the simplest and cheapest way to decorate the facade of a building. Such panels are popular for several reasons: ease of installation; low cost; Huge color options. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting that such panels are made of plastic and any facade will look plastic even from the farthest distance.

This type of panel is installed exclusively horizontally. To work, you will need a construction knife or any other knife. In addition, you will need a hammer drill. You will also need a level to determine the angle of the panels, as well as a hammer for driving nails.

Initial stage PVC installations panels is a preliminary inspection of the house. It is necessary to determine the location of the first row of panels. In the case of a new building, it is recommended to install the panels from the beginning of the foundation. Also, PVC panels can be installed from the initial row of the old finish.

Start of installation

Next, you should install the initial frame, namely: corners, both external and internal, platbands, first strips for attaching panels. Installation begins from the corners. The gap between them and the cornice should not be more than 6.5 mm.

The most important stage, on which the future fate of the entire facade will depend, is the installation of the first strip of panels

It is important to install the first strip of fasteners as correctly as possible, since the fastening of the panel itself depends on it. If the strip was laid evenly, then the panel will be even.

General provisions

It is necessary to install trims, ebbs and trims on windows and doors. And after the completed stages, the installation of all other rows of the facade begins. The top panel is inserted into the profile and hammered in with a nail, but not completely. There should be an interval of 0.4 cm between panels, and no more than 6 mm between other components. In order to avoid vertical overlaps, it is recommended to install the panels at half the factory mark. This way the joints will not be visible from the front side.

Sequence of installation of facade panels

When installing panels, you must remember that parts of the products will need to be cut off. A construction knife is used for this. A ruler and level are also needed to more accurately measure the angle and draw a straight line on the product. Draw a line on the panel in the place where you need to cut off the piece, and carefully draw it with a knife several times. The advantage of plastic is that it is ideal for such manipulations.

You must be extremely careful, since mechanical damage is very visible on such material.

Such panels are most in demand due to their ease of installation and low cost. Besides, PVC products They can be installed at various building heights because they are very light. Installation of such panels is simple and does not require much time.

The final step is to install the top row of panels. For the top row, only complete panels are needed. In addition, the last panel is closed with a special profile for drainage.

Video - Installation of basement siding

Their advantages

This:

• aesthetic qualities: thanks to the imitation of various textures and a large palette of colors, they allow you to make your home stylish and beautiful;
• long service life and ease of operation (just wipe the panels with plain water and they already look like new);
• the low weight of facade slabs reduces the load on the foundation;
• good water-repellent properties;
• acceptable price;
• you can add insulation or use panels with insulation.

Facade panels– this is a facing material made of polymer sheets (usually polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam) with perforation with the possibility of fastening with self-tapping screws to literally any surface (from wood to wood).

Facade cladding panel

Installation of lightweight facade panels

The first step will be making the sheathing. It can be of several types, but the most important thing is to decide whether you need insulation under the façade elements or not. You need to remember that even if you live in a warm area, insulation not only serves to retain heat, but also protects from heat. It absorbs moisture from evaporation and moves the dew point beyond the walls of the house. Modern insulation materials are sound absorbers and carry part of the protective function of the façade system. This is only the main part of the advantages of organizing a facade with insulation. True, there is a drawback: the material costs from 200 rubles per square meter. On the other hand, if the walls require high-quality straightening, you cannot do without it. It’s better to follow the advice and construct a good ventilated facade on your house, then straightening the walls will not be necessary.

There are two types of battens

Manufacturing of sheathing

The sheathing can be made of metal and wood. For heavy slabs, for example, made of natural stone, glass or porcelain stoneware, a frame is required from a metal profile.

Let's take a metal grill as a basis. If you live in a warm area, then the vertical planks can be dug into the ground, but in areas where the soil freezes, you need to measure at least 40 cm from the ground and begin attaching the planks in increments of 91 cm or slightly less than the size of the insulation. When fastening slabs without insulation, horizontal strips are mounted to vertical strips without protrusions “flush”, the strapping pitch will be 46 cm.

Trim plan

Setting up a starting profile

Let's start installing the starting profile. It is mounted above the low tide, if there is one. In the case of a ventilated facade, the ebb is installed under the J-profile, into which the bottom layer of insulation is attached. Installation of the starting profile begins along the bottom bar of the frame strictly horizontally. Don't forget to measure the corner panels. Usually their sides are 10 cm, so the starting profile is mounted with a 10-centimeter offset from the corner. If the bottom edge of the slab requires trimming, then the starting profile is not used, and the cladding is screwed or nailed directly to the sheathing.

Lathing with starting profile

Installation of the first row

Attach the corner first. Now slide the first panel along the starting profile to the left until it fully joins the corner

Please note that the mounting pins must align correctly. Secure the slab and fill the connecting seam with sealant. Move to the next plate, moving from left to right. If necessary, cut slabs, being careful not to cut more than one mounting connection

Cutting of elements is done with a grinder or a saw with rare teeth. Adjust the saw stroke to avoid chipping. Cut the last panel to size.

Installation of the first row

Subsequent rows are attached according to the pattern of the first row. For “brick” facades, it is necessary to move the slab relative to the other in order to obtain a natural brick wall pattern.

Forming internal corners

To install internal corners, you can use a J-profile or cut the slabs according to size and pattern. Take two profiles and install them in the inner corner of the building. The fastening pitch is 15-20 cm.

The last row of panels ends with the fastening of the J-profile and flashing.

Installation of J-profile for internal corners

They are small sheets that are installed on any structure made of brick, wood, foam concrete, etc.

They do not create a large load on the base and serve to protect the external part of the building from aggressive environments and weather conditions. Each buyer can choose products according to their wallet and taste.

DIY installation

Today, there are three methods of installing panels that attract every consumer with their task:

On flat surfaces

This method is economical and easiest to use., it should be noted that installation is carried out on perfectly flat walls. Otherwise, the curvature of the installation will spoil the appearance of the house and lose its protective properties. For frameless cladding, it is necessary to purchase it with internal insulation.

Attach the canvas to the wall with glue. If the wall is smooth, then you can attach it to a special adhesive mass, they are now on sale a large number of, the main thing is that it is frost-resistant.

Using a toothed trowel, the mixture is applied to the surface and the slab is laid, and the second one is installed in the same way. There is no need to make a large layer; the panel will float. The vertical and horizon are checked with a level, after which the size of the seam is fixed using tile crosses.

It is important that the glue does not clog the seam; it must be rubbed with another substance.

On uneven walls

First of all, unevenness is identified, which is corrected with the help of hangers by aligning the beam or profile along the edges of the building and to the required level.

To ensure that the entire plane is level, string is pulled over the profiles already placed along the edges, which will also serve as guides for the remaining metal profiles.

The panel is attached to the frame with a self-tapping screw, and insulation is laid into the created void. This operation must be carried out over the entire plane.

The fastening method is similar to the method of the second option, but only between the insulation and the panel there is a gap for the circulation of air masses. requires a special fastening system. The necessary fastening is included with the panels.

Tools for work:

• roulette;
• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• lace;
• screwdriver;
• drill;

For wet method You only need a tape measure, a hacksaw or grinder, a spatula and a bucket for the solution.

Varieties

Glass panels

Most often, this material is used for finishing office buildings or shopping centers. Can also be used in special cases for decoration country cottage with extraordinary architecture.

Panels can consist of different types of glass:

• bulletproof and shockproof;
• reinforced or laminated;
• crystallized;
• glass granulite;

The main advantage of such panels is their unique façade and good ultraviolet protection, as well as excellent sound and heat insulation. The disadvantages are the high price and complexity of installation.

Under stone and brick

These are the most common models, installed on a plinth, the entire house or individual parts. Panels are made based on polypropylene resins.

After installation, the facade looks realistic, as if made of real stone or brick. In addition, there is no need to resort to the services of a mason; this work can be done independently. The material is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and weather changes. Availability and aesthetics allow every consumer to purchase this building material.

Facade made of porcelain stoneware

Good product capable of holding shock load in strong winds. Wear-resistant, does not fade or fade, fireproof.

Frost-resistant with great strength. If something goes wrong and the panel is somehow lost, it can be easily replaced. It is attached in several ways, but it is better to use two-component polyurethane glue. The disadvantages of this material are low noise insulation and high thermal conductivity.

Fiber cement facade systems

Panels of this brand are capable of self-cleaning thanks to an inorganic film. The product consists of 90% cement and minerals, the rest is cellulose fibers. Such panels can imitate different building materials.

• fiber cement plate;
• sealing gasket size 45/50/15;
• wind protective film;
• INSI panels;
• GVL sheet;
• vapor barrier;

The advantages of this system include the absence of corrosion and rotting, high noise and heat insulation properties, durability, and frost resistance.

Disadvantages include low strength and painting after installation.

Wall mounted sandwich panels

The multi-row sandwich structure consists of two sheets of metal at the edges and insulation in the middle, protected by a vapor barrier fabric. The outer side consists of an alloy of aluminum, magnesium and manganese.

Imitation can be different: wood, plaster. The product is frost-resistant and temperature-resistant from -180 to +100. Environmentally fireproof. Service life over 35 years.

The disadvantages are that the seams freeze at low temperatures and require careful handling; impacts that could damage the panel should be avoided.

Wood fiber

Split wood, glued under pressure, forms the base of the panel. Protective layer paint comes out. The canvases can be lined with either polymer material or veneer.

They are easy to work with and lend themselves well to drilling and cutting. Excellent quality is frost resistance and thermal insulation. Disadvantages: up to 15 years of operation, flammable and water-permeable.

Vinyl

Created on the basis of polymers with the addition of dyes, they are capable of carrying different textures and colors. The surface can be smooth, perforated or imitated wood. The material is fireproof, easy to cut, does not rot, and is waterproof. Operational life - 30 years. At low temperatures it cracks due to wind and vibration.

Metal sheets

The panels are made of galvanized steel or aluminum coated with polymer. The front part can be smooth or with fine perforations. The weight per m2 will be 10 kg. This material is rich in advantages, including durability, alkali-acid resistance, fire safety, moisture resistance, does not rust, is frost-resistant, and has a high sound absorption coefficient.

The downside is the low thermal insulation of steel.

The product is made of polyurethane foam with rolled marble chips and a decorative part of clinker. The color scheme of the panels may vary. Able to withstand many frost cycles, temperature differences from -50 to + 110. Completely fireproof, waterproof, do not rot.

The period established by the manufacturer is 50 years.

Among well-known siding manufacturers, the Deke Extrusion company is distinguished high quality products traditional for German manufacturers. The division operating in Russia consists of 3 factories that successfully produce various facade and roofing materials.

One of the most promising materials that is gaining popularity and is actively developing in production is basement siding or, as it is more often called in Lately, facade panels.

They have high functional and decorative potential, making it possible to make the appearance of the house completely updated without making significant changes to the design. The growing popularity of the material deserves a detailed discussion of its qualities and installation procedures.

Facade panels

Docke façade panels are an external cladding material, which was created for finishing the plinths or lower levels of buildings. In practice, it turned out that basement siding looks much more attractive if it is used to decorate the entire facade of the house.

The result is a high-quality imitation of natural stone finishing that can radically transform the appearance of the simplest home. Such qualities prompted the change in the name of basement siding, which for some time now has been called “facade panels.”

The main distinctive quality of facade panels is the imitation of brick or stone masonry, while ordinary siding repeats different versions of wooden walls.

The level of imitation turned out to be very high, since casts from natural fragments of walls made of one or another type of finishing or building stone, brick, etc. are used to make molds.

The company's product range includes several lines of material:

• BERG (rock). The material replicates the masonry of blocks hewn by hand from natural rock. The line has 6 color options, from light gray to dark brown.
• BURG (castle). The basis for the development of this direction was ancient legends telling about knightly castles. The material was created to imitate the appearance of fortress walls, solid and durable. The collection has 10 color options.
• STEIN (under the stone). There are 5 color options for the panels, representing the masonry of the hewn sandstone walls.
• EDEL (noble). The panels have the texture of rock masonry of heterogeneous size, the line is made in 5 color options, repeating the color of noble stones - jasper, rhodonite, quartz, onyx and corundum.
• STERN (star). Set of realistic looking blocks different sizes, adjusted to each other. High precision in conveying the texture of the stone, there are 6 color options.

Features of panel installation

Polypropylene facade panels Deke have technical characteristics close to most plastic sheathing samples - vinyl, acrylic, etc.

Accordingly, the conditions of installation work, in particular the mandatory observance of thermal clearances, are equally relevant for Deke panels.

The fact is that a solid sheathing sheet, being tightly assembled without gaps, will begin to expand when heated and go in waves. In some cases, destruction of nail strips is possible - strips along the edge of the panel with oblong holes for fixing to the base using nails or, more often, self-tapping screws.

In order to avoid damage or disruption of the appearance of the skin, it is imperative that temperature gaps - gaps between all contacting elements of the skin - be observed. This condition is especially relevant for elements that require longitudinal joining (for example, starting strip, J-bar, etc.).

For the same reasons, nails and screws cannot be driven in/tightened all the way. About 1 mm is left between the head and the part to allow movement when changing sizes. The holes in the nail strips have an oblong shape.

The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle so that there is the possibility of slight movement in one direction or another. The only case when this rule is violated is the installation of vertical elements (for example, corner strips). For them, a self-tapping screw in the upper hole is installed at the top point so that the part does not fall down. The remaining screws are arranged according to the general pattern.

Accessories

In addition to ordinary panels, additional elements are required to install the sheathing. Components, or, as they are also called, additional elements, without which it will be difficult to sheathe a house (photo below):

• Starting bar. This is a special rail with a groove for installing the bottom row of panels.
• J-bar. Serves to complete the cladding fabric, or for any design of the junction of the fabric to other planes (for example, when decorating window openings, it limits the window frame from the side of the window block).
• Corner profile. An element used to finish external corners. For Deke panels, installation of corner profiles is much easier, since they are mounted on top of the panels on both sides of the corner and cover them. They do not have a typical groove into which the sides of the panels are inserted. To ensure reliable installation, there is a starting corner profile that serves as a reference point for the corner profile.
• Border. Used to decorate the end sections of the canvas, overhangs or other areas. To install it use
• Base bar. Used for decorating internal corners, attaching borders, etc.
• Facade window profile. Serves as a support strip when finishing window or door openings.
• Internal corner. Used to decorate the internal corners of the surface.

The list of additional elements for Deke façade panels is much shorter than is the case with conventional types of siding, and the installation technology is simpler and clearer, which is also an advantage of the material.

Tool preparation

To install the panels you will need certain tools:

• Tape measure, metal ruler, folding meter.
• Building level.
• Screwdriver, screwdriver.
• Pliers.
• Hacksaw with fine teeth, grinder.
• Metal scissors.

Installation of a ventilated facade

A ventilated facade is a method of cladding a house, in which between the outer layer - the cladding - and inner layers- the wall, insulation and waterproofing provide an air gap of at least 3 cm.

This casing device has important property- water vapor escaping from the thickness of the wall materials has the ability to freely exit the insulation. To put it simply, there is a constant opportunity to dry the wall and insulation.

This option allows you to increase the service life of all materials that make up the thickness of the wall and ensures high-quality performance of the insulation. For facade panels, a ventilated facade is the usual type of installation, although installation without it is possible, directly on wooden walls.

Selecting lathing for panels and its installation

The sheathing for the panels is the supporting structure. Its configuration is usually complicated by the presence of insulation, which must be installed between the slats. Therefore, for work, a material is selected that is most convenient to work with and is sufficiently strong and durable.

The traditional type of lathing is a system of wooden planks. This option is acceptable, but requires straight, dried planks, which should be soaked with an antiseptic immediately after installation to avoid rot, mold, etc.

A more successful option is the construction of a metal sheathing. Metal guides are used for plasterboard sheets. They are straight, the galvanized surface prevents corrosion processes, installation and adjustment of the plane is much easier than when working with wooden blocks.

In some cases, metal and wooden planks are combined, which is sometimes convenient for complex surface configurations.

Installation procedure:

1. Cleaning the wall outside the house, complete surface preparation- putty, plaster (if necessary), primer, drying the surface.
2. Marking the wall for load-bearing elements- brackets or straight guides.
3. The sheathing for Deke panels has both horizontally and vertically directed strips. Therefore, if you need to install insulation under it, you need to build your own sheathing. It is needed to install supporting strips for panels on top of it.
4. Installation of insulation is carried out between the strips of the primary sheathing. A layer of waterproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation.
5. A load-bearing frame is installed on the primary sheathing strips. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm to ensure the required ventilation gap. Vertical strips are used for mounting corners and sides of panels. Horizontal ones serve as a supporting surface for starting and J-planks, the upper sides of panels, and other elements of the canvas.
6. The pitch of the horizontal strips corresponds to the height of the panel, the pitch of the vertical strips is half its length.

The main task when installing the sheathing is to ensure that the sizes of the panels and the distances between the planks match, as well as to ensure the presence of a flat plane, which makes it possible to obtain the correct geometry of the sheathing sheet.

How the panels are fastened

The panels are attached to the sheathing strips taking into account temperature changes, i.e. not tightly, but with a gap between the screw head and the part of about 1 mm. A correctly installed element can be freely moved left and right within the width of the mounting holes.

The screw head must be at least 10 mm in diameter, its length must be at least 30 mm. You cannot drill holes for self-tapping screws yourself; you must use standard mounting holes and components.

DIY installation instructions

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Installation of the starting bar. The lowest point of the canvas is determined, a horizontal line is drawn along the level, all corner starting strips are installed along it, after which the ordinary starting strips are installed.
2. Internal corners, if any, can be formed using a J-bar or a specialized internal corner profile. To do this, pre-install the base strip with a shelf to the corner so that the panels on one side of the corner fit into the groove, and on the other they are attached over the nail strip. When the panels are installed, the inside corner will be inserted into the groove of the base strip and cover the joint of the planes.
3. Facing is carried out in the only possible direction - from left to right and from bottom to top.. the first panel is trimmed to obtain an even side line, inserted into the groove of the starting strip, aligned with the corner and fixed with self-tapping screws. The next panel is inserted into the side grooves of the previous one, into the starting strip from below, and secured from above with self-tapping screws. The entire row is laid in this way. The following rows are mounted in a similar way.
4. Frames of window and door openings are mounted in the same way as corners. A J-bar is used to connect the design of the slopes and the window (door) frame.
5. The canvas is completed by installing a J-bar, forming the top edge of the panels.

Installation of facade panels for exterior decoration of a house is simple and can be done independently. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for carrying out work and constantly remember the need to maintain temperature gaps between parts, and do not tighten the screws all the way.

Fulfilling these requirements will allow you to complete the work with high quality and get a solid and stylish appearance of the house, imitating masonry at relatively low costs.

Useful video

Technology for installing façade panels using the example of Docke products:

Source: expert-dacha.pro

Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels: step-by-step description with photos

The cladding of the building protects the house from numerous external influences. Today, installation of facade panels is increasingly used for new and old buildings - it is beautiful and reliable. We’ll look at whether it’s possible to do the work yourself in this article.

What are facade panels

There is no need to confuse facade panels and siding, although their purpose is the same - cladding the external walls of the house. Facade slabs appeared relatively recently and are actively replacing other methods of protecting buildings from atmospheric and other influences. They are thicker and more durable than siding. Materials for the production of such cover for external walls have also significantly expanded the range. Today, facade slabs are used both for the complete covering of a house and for basement cladding. Their demand is simple to explain: this type of façade design replaces many natural materials, but is much cheaper.

Types of facade panels

There are numerous types of facade slabs on the market:

An inexpensive cladding option that can be mounted on a lightweight frame or directly on the wall, taking into account the ideal surface. The variety of shapes and colors can please any owner. The disadvantage is the lack of vapor permeability and fragility. Frost resistance is not too high, so it is not worth using such cladding in the Far North. Many types of vinyl planks are flammable, and most release harmful substances when burned.

They are made from concrete and wood fibers using synthetic additives, which are a binding component. Durable, environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable, non-flammable fiber cement cladding of facades has conquered the market in many countries. Imitation of natural materials not only in appearance, but also in terms of quality characteristics. The wood-look material has the warmth of natural wood, but does not burn or rot.

• Wood fiber boards

They are used mainly for light country houses and summer cottages, as they have significant disadvantages: flammability, susceptibility to rotting. But these are some of the most frost-resistant materials - up to 100 cycles, they do not crack and are environmentally friendly.

• Made of metal with PVC lining

They are made from galvanized steel or vinyl-coated aluminum. Easy to use and install, especially cassette types. Durable, not susceptible to rotting, well protect the house from noise, dust and moisture. Disadvantage - the material does not breathe, the outer coating is prone to burning, and is quite expensive.

This facade material is highly durable and resistant to all types of fungi and damage. Porcelain stoneware slabs look expensive and stylish. Such facades give the impression of wealth and protect the house from any outside influences. Lack of panel weight. Carrying out cladding alone is quite difficult.

We are used to associating glass facades with large shopping centers or office buildings, but glass is increasingly in demand among those who want to give the walls of their mansion a stylish and sometimes fantastic look. Impact-resistant, often bulletproof glass of class A and B is used. Reinforced glass, triplex glass, and glass made from glass granulate foam are used. The advantages of such walls are their beauty and unusualness. The disadvantage is complex installation and high cost.

The design of the thermal panel is a thick layer of polyurethane foam or polystyrene, covered with ceramic tiles to protect the material from external influences. Such protective facades have many advantages: high heat and noise insulation, durability, frost resistance, impact resistance. The simplicity of the tongue-and-groove fastenings makes it easy to install such cladding.

They consist of two layers of metal, between which a plastic layer and a vapor barrier layer are pressed. This is an excellent sound insulator. Withstands any temperature changes. Such slabs can have different surfaces. Not susceptible to corrosion and fungus. Operating temperatures from -180 to +100 degrees.

Pros and cons of installation

Finishing a building with facade slabs has more advantages than disadvantages, and therefore let’s immediately talk about the disadvantage. The fastening of the facade panel is always carried out on a special frame, and therefore the production of such facades requires knowledge and certain experience. In addition, the cost of many materials is quite high. The advantages of wall cladding with these finishing materials are obvious:

• Protecting your home from high and low temperatures;
• Long term of use from 20 years and above. Most materials have a service life of 50 years or more;
• Protects walls from fungus and rot;
• Resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• Most of the slabs are made of non-flammable and environmentally friendly material;
• Resistant to corrosion.

Before you get started, there are a few important tips to consider.

1. Always lay from left to right and from bottom to top.
2. The need to withstand temperature gaps determines the expansion ability of the material. For example, at 1°C the gap will be 15 mm, at 32°C - 10 mm.
3. Fastening can also be done at low temperatures, but then you need to keep the slabs warm for at least a day to reduce brittleness and increase the flexibility of the material.
4. Due to temperature fluctuations, small deformation processes in linear dimensions will occur in the slabs. To prevent deformation changes, use fasteners with a smaller diameter than the holes in the slab.
5. Holes in the wall for fastening must be made at least 10 mm.
6. Never install more than two corners at a time to allow for adjustment.
7. Before starting work, you need to level the walls. Even a metal frame may not be able to save large distortions. If this is difficult to do, then make the sheathing on brackets and fill the space with insulation.

Installation of lightweight facade panels

The first step will be making the sheathing. It can be of several types, but the most important thing is to decide whether you need insulation under the façade elements or not. You need to remember that even if you live in a warm area, insulation not only serves to retain heat, but also protects from heat. It absorbs moisture from evaporation and moves the dew point beyond the walls of the house. Modern insulation materials are sound absorbers and carry part of the protective function of the façade system. This is only the main part of the advantages of organizing a facade with insulation. True, there is a drawback: the material costs from 200 rubles per square meter. On the other hand, if the walls require high-quality straightening, you cannot do without it. It’s better to follow the advice and construct a good ventilated facade on your house, then straightening the walls will not be necessary.

Manufacturing of sheathing

The sheathing can be made of metal and wood. For heavy slabs, for example, made of natural stone, glass or porcelain stoneware, a frame is required from a metal profile.

Let's take a metal grill as a basis. If you live in a warm area, then the vertical planks can be dug into the ground, but in areas where the soil freezes, you need to measure at least 40 cm from the ground and begin attaching the planks in increments of 91 cm or slightly less than the size of the insulation. When fastening slabs without insulation, horizontal strips are mounted to vertical strips without protrusions “flush”, the strapping pitch will be 46 cm.

Setting up a starting profile

Let's start installing the starting profile. It is mounted above the low tide, if there is one. In the case of a ventilated facade, the ebb is installed under the J-profile, into which the bottom layer of insulation is attached. Installation of the starting profile begins along the bottom bar of the frame strictly horizontally. Don't forget to measure the corner panels. Usually their sides are 10 cm, so the starting profile is mounted with a 10-centimeter offset from the corner. If the bottom edge of the slab requires trimming, then the starting profile is not used, and the cladding is screwed or nailed directly to the sheathing.

Installation of the first row

Attach the corner first. Now slide the first panel along the starting profile to the left until it fully joins the corner. Please note that the mounting pins must align correctly. Secure the slab and fill the connecting seam with sealant. Move to the next plate, moving from left to right. If necessary, cut slabs, being careful not to cut more than one mounting connection. Cutting of elements is done with a grinder or a saw with rare teeth. Adjust the saw stroke to avoid chipping. Cut the last panel to size.

Subsequent rows are attached according to the pattern of the first row. For “brick” facades, it is necessary to move the slab relative to the other in order to obtain a natural brick wall pattern.

Forming internal corners

To install internal corners, you can use a J-profile or cut the slabs according to size and pattern. Take two profiles and install them in the inner corner of the building. The fastening pitch is 15-20 cm.

The last row of panels ends with the fastening of the J-profile and flashing.

Installation of heavy facade panels with your own hands step by step

Installation of heavy facade elements is carried out in a different way. It is impossible to simply attach a fiberboard or porcelain tile to a starting profile without additional fasteners. Therefore, the progress of work is as follows.

• First of all, we construct the sheathing. It is necessary to calculate the number and types of profile strips, brackets and fasteners.

Important! You cannot use a galvanized profile for gypsum boards! The facade is too heavy for this metal. It is necessary to purchase a special reinforced profile.

We install the brackets on which the vertical profile will then be attached. The size of the working part of the bracket is calculated from the thickness of the insulation. After laying the thermal insulation, we install vertical profiles. Mount the main and intermediate profile. The main one should be located at the junction of the plates, and the intermediate one in the middle. Calculation of the pitch is carried out based on the architectural features of the building design and wind load: the size between the profiles is usually 40-60 cm. Horizontal planks have a pitch corresponding to the size of the panel.

• The next step is to install the lower ebb at a distance of 40 cm from the ground and attach the starting profile or clamps. Clamps or metal clamps are designed not only for fastening, but also for creating an expansion joint.
• Next, we begin fastening the first row. The thicker the facing material, the more responsible it is necessary to approach the work. Fastening of facade elements made of porcelain stoneware and other weighty structures more than 15 mm thick is carried out using clamps or internal fastenings. The connection of the plates occurs in accordance with the instructions and drawings.

Important! When installing, do not forget to leave 3 mm between the plates for thermal expansion! The ends are protected with a special sealant, which should be included in the kit.

Instructions for fastening cassette facade slabs

Metal or composite cassette slabs for external cladding are a very convenient and profitable material for self-cladding.

Important! Some composite cassettes can deform and fade under intense sun, so be sure to read the instructions before purchasing! The material must comply with GOST.

The installation of cassettes is a whole structure, which includes a metal profile, internal and external corners, platbands, flashings, slopes, and fasteners. Such frames greatly facilitate self-mounting. The work can be done using internal and external fasteners. The visible principle is carried out through special holes with which each cassette is equipped. Usually these are curved steel tiles. The hidden method is typical for cassettes with curved bases. They fit into the slots like a Lego set. For such a system, the installation of an L-shaped profile is required.

Video master class on do-it-yourself installation of facade panels

For a better understanding of the installation work, we present to your attention a film about fixing vinyl panels yourself.

Installation of vinyl panels

There are many ways to decorate the exterior walls of a building, we have shown one of them. You can install façade panels with your own hands, even alone.

Source: fasadanado.ru

Installation of facade panels: do-it-yourself cladding and fastening

The facade is the face of the house. If it is in unsatisfactory condition: old, dilapidated, in need of repair, then it is inconvenient to live in such a house, and it is almost impossible to sell. Materials of varying cost and quality are used for cladding facades.

Natural stone and ceramic granite are expensive and quality materials, not available to everyone. To install a facade made of natural stone, you need to carefully prepare the base.

“Wet” finishing is a labor-intensive and expensive process, limited in time to the warm period. Creating a textured plaster pattern involves additional difficulties and costs.

The way out is to decorate the house with facade panels.

Unlike natural stone or metal siding, cladding the facade of a house with panels is an economical way to repair. They come in two types:

Single layer

Made from polyvinyl chloride. Single-layer panels imitate brick or stone masonry, tiles made from expensive varieties of basalt and granite.

Thanks to modern equipment, the drawing looks natural. Distinguish from a distance of several meters artificial material from natural it is almost impossible.

PVC panels are made with fillers that significantly increase the performance characteristics of the material.

Artificial cladding is very strong and durable. The panels are made from non-flammable material and practically do not lose their shape when exposed to sunlight.

PVC wall panels can be mounted either on a clean base or on a frame with insulation.

Multilayer

Another name for thermal panel. They should not be confused with sandwich panels. Sandwiches are used to construct walls and partitions. Thermal panels are used only for cladding load-bearing walls, they cannot be used as a full-fledged building material.

The multilayer panel consists of solid insulation and a protective outer layer. For insulation, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, foam glass, and basalt mineral wool are used.

The protective and decorative layer must be durable, wear-resistant and beautiful. The coating of thermal panels is made of plaster on stone base, clinker tiles, concrete-polymer facade tiles, concrete-polymer monolithic finishing layer.

How to cover a house with facade panels with your own hands

Facade panels can be mounted in several different ways. The choice depends on several factors:

• Condition of the base. The panels are attached to a well-prepared wall without the use of glue or mounting foam using self-tapping dowels and anchors. If the base is uneven, then the panels are mounted with glue or construction foam. The frame mounting method is also used. It consists of creating an even and durable base from metal profiles or wooden slats for installing single-layer or multi-layer panels.
• On walls covered with insulation sheets, single-layer facade panels are installed only along the frame. This technology is called a ventilated facade. There is a narrow layer of air between the insulation and the cladding. This is a ventilation duct for ventilating the inside of a suspended facade.

Installation is preceded by material calculation and preparatory work

The calculation is made according to the sketch of the facade. A layout is drawn on the sketch indicating all overall dimensions, the number of windows and doors. Behind by exact calculation It is better to contact a sales consultant. In large stores they are taught to quickly complete the calculation.

Preparatory work begins with sanitizing the façade and identifying problem areas. Then the surface is cleaned of remnants of the old coating. Everything that is hung on the facade from the outside is dismantled. Large cracks and chips are expanded and sealed with cement-sand mortar.

If the facade is affected by fungus or mold, then disinfection is carried out. Most effective way for etching - this is impregnation of the surface with soil with copper sulfate.

Copper sulfate is poisonous. It is dangerous for the human body, so work is performed in a respirator and rubber gloves.

Do-it-yourself installation of façade thermal panels

They can be installed in two ways:

An absolutely level base is required. One panel slides over the other and snaps into place with a special lock. This installation method reduces total time and the complexity of the work.

Before attaching thermal panels in any way, markings are made. Using a laser level or level, the horizon line is determined on the facade. It may or may not coincide with the blind area line. If the lines match, then there will be no problems. Use sandpaper to mark the junction of the panel and the base.

If the house is on a hill and the blind area is not horizontal, then the starting line is drawn parallel to the blind area. The second dimensional line is set at the horizon level, to a height equal to the size of the panel from the bottom point of the facade. Thus, cutting the bottom of the panels of the first row, the top goes strictly horizontally.

The panels are cut with a grinder and a diamond wheel. Goggles are used to protect the eyes. The grinder only cuts through the protective coating. To cut the insulation, use a regular hacksaw for wood.

The starting profile is set at the bottom mark. It is attached to the wall using self-tapping dowels.

Installation starts from the corner of the house. To fix the façade panels, disc dowels with a large flat head are used. For each dowel, a shallow hole is drilled in the insulation to match the diameter of the head. So that after installation the dowel is flush with the insulation and does not interfere with the joint of the panels.

For additional fastening of the panels, self-tapping dowels are used. Holes are drilled for them in the seams between the tiles. After installation, traces of fastening can be easily hidden using putty matched to the color of the wall.

After securing the first panel, the second one is locked to it. In this way the entire façade is covered. The external corners between the panels are closed with additional elements.

If they are not there, then the corner ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. After installation is completed, the joint is sealed with putty. To connect the elements, you do not need to press hard on them. If it doesn’t work, then one of the panels is warped or there is a bump on the wall. Both defects are eliminated, continue installation.

Installing panels with glue is relevant when the base is wavy with deviations of 10-30 mm in the horizontal or vertical plane. The glue acts as a leveling material. After finishing the façade, there are no air gaps between the wall and the panels.

Marking and sawing of facade thermal panels is carried out according to the algorithm for the dry method.

The starting profile is fixed along the lower horizontal line. This is the support of the facade system. To improve the connection between the panel and the profile, polyurethane foam is applied to the shelf. The first row of panels is mounted on the foam.

Installation starts from the bottom corner of the house. To install thermal panels, special glue is used, which is purchased along with the cladding elements. If it is not there, then a dry mixture is suitable for installing foam plastic or mineral insulation on a brick, concrete or aerated concrete base.

Glue thin layer Apply to the entire surface of the panel using a notched trowel. For additional fastening, disc dowels are used. When joining panels, you must ensure that the size of the seams between the tiles at the joints does not differ from the neighboring ones.

All joints between the site and the installation site of self-tapping dowels are sealed with putty in the color of the surface.

We must remember that the material from which the wall is made affects the selection of insulation for the thermal panel. It is better to cover porous structures such as foam concrete and silicate blocks with thermal panels based on mineral insulation.

Mineral wool removes moisture well. For brick and concrete walls You can use polystyrene foam cladding.

Installation technology of external wall panels

We will talk about constructing a façade from single-layer polyvinyl chloride cladding elements. The panels are mounted on an uneven base on a frame made of galvanized metal profiles.

Facade wall panels can be installed at almost any temperature. Installation is prohibited only in severe frosts, when the thermometer drops below -15°C. Facade cladding work consists of several stages:

Preparation

Work on preparing the foundation must be completed before installation of the supporting frame begins. Excess elements, such as an external unit for an air conditioner, are removed from the facade. The flashing and lining of the slopes are removed from the windows. If the facade is wooden, then it must be treated with an antiseptic to inhibit the processes of decay and fungal development. If the facade is stone or concrete, then such treatment is not necessary.

Cladding without insulation does not require a vapor barrier membrane. If external lighting is planned, then the wiring is carried out at the preparation stage.

Lathing for mounting panels

The sheathing for the façade panels can be made of wood or a U-shaped profile. The second option is preferable, since the galvanized profile does not corrode or collapse. It does not need to be further protected.

On a flat base, it is possible to mount the profile directly on a bare wall. If the facade is curved, then a frame is mounted under the facade panels.

The frame consists of brackets and supporting profiles. Using brackets, the frame is leveled. The profile is mounted on the pre-marked surface of the facade. Marking is carried out using a laser level and measuring tape

The first horizontal element is installed 50 mm from the ground. The starting strip for the façade panels is attached to it. The installation step of the vertical guides is 500-600 mm, and the horizontal ones depend on the height of the facing element. Horizontal guides are made of J-profile. For fastening, self-tapping dowels are used with a pitch of 300-400 mm.

Facade panel fastenings

Installation of facade panels begins from the bottom corner strictly from left to right and from top to bottom. The first row is installed on the starting bar. The left end, which goes to the corner, is cut exactly at a right angle.

Then it is secured with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the nail holes and the body of the wall. The second panel is connected to the first to the junction of the temperature compensators and secured in a similar way. To increase the strength of the structure, the panels can be glued to the starting strip with polyurethane foam.

The construction of a facade from single-layer and multi-layer panels can be done with your own hands. The work is not particularly difficult if the rules and technologies are followed.

The facade panels will be complemented by a wide range of additional elements that allow you to hide minor flaws of a novice installer.

The appearance of any private home is important point for owners. Considered an excellent solution installation DIY siding.

After all, decorative façade panels easy to installation, are capable of creating. On both sides these façade wall panels covered with a protective compound that is very durable. Fiber cement for many decades.

What do we know about the essence of technology installation ventilated facade? That this is a prefabricated structure with a facing screen and an air gap.

Facade cornice is important element building. It hangs over the wall as a continuation of the roof or divides the walls along the boundaries of the interfloor ceilings. The main function of the cornice is to throw away rainwater.

Installation fiber cement boards. Fiber cement panels mounted on a special frame (subsystem). . Installation brackets using façade anchors The depth of drilling for the anchor depends on the wall material and weight panels.

Installation composite panels allows the slabs to be positioned both horizontally and. Kinds aluminum profiles suitable for installation façade cassettes. For fastening composite panels There are three main types used.

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