Installation of metal tiles with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions for building a metal roof with your own hands: installation features

One of important stages building a house - installing a roof and roofing (roofing work). One of the popular roofing materials is metal tiles. And it’s not surprising, because among its advantages are light weight, ease of installation, large color scheme, strength.

Of course, there are also disadvantages - low rigidity, which makes movement on the roof problematic, and significant waste of material when laid on slopes with complex geometry, poor sound insulation, and heating. All of them can be eliminated; for example, the susceptibility of metal to corrosion can be reduced if metal tiles are installed correctly.

Metal roof installation

The manufacturer has already taken care of protecting the metal tiles by creating a multi-layer roofing structure (see figure).

As you can see, the presence of several layers of protective coating allows us to say that the tiles are made of high-quality material. Therefore, in order for the roof under such a covering to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to the technology of installing metal tiles.

Basis of choice - parameters of metal tiles:

• Metal tile thickness. Metal tiles are made from thin sheet steel. The thickness of the metal tile sheet is 0.5-0.7 mm, this is noted in SNiP II-26-76 “Roofs”.

Advice. The thickness of the metal within one sheet may vary. Allowable change +/- 5%.

Please note that low-quality metal bends under strong pressure.

• Thickness of the zinc layer of metal tiles. This parameter cannot be visually tracked. Therefore, read the passport for the coil of metal from which the sheets are rolled. According to the standard, the thickness of the protective coating should be 275 g/m2. If this requirement is not met, it may lead to the result shown in the photo.

• The thickness of the metal tile coating depends on the type (type) of the coating.

• Leaf geometry. Here it is important to pay attention to the fact that the sheets are not only cut evenly, but also do not have any bends along the covering side.

The tight fit of the edges is shown in the photo.

If the geometry of the sheet is poor, the result will be noticeable visually. IN best case scenario the junction will be ugly. In the worst case, water will flow under the sheet. And don’t even expect to tighten such an edge with self-tapping screws.

• Metal tile color. Plays an important role in the case of gradual development. That is, when you need to select a shade. In principle, there are two color coding systems, and if you know your color, you can choose the appropriate one.

Types of metal tile coatings

• PE (polyester) is applied with a thickness of 20-25 microns. Its disadvantage is its rapid but uniform burnout. And also that the snow does not linger for smooth surface leaf.

• PEMA (polyester matte). Its layer is 35 microns. It is more resistant to fading and mechanical damage. The rough surface prevents snow from sliding down quickly. In principle, matte finishes virtually eliminate the need for snow guards.

• PU (pural) and PUMA (Pural matt - matte pural). Coating thickness 50 microns. This coating can be used in regions with aggressive environments.

• PVC (Plastisol). In metal tiles with such a coating, the metal core is the most protected, since the layer is from 100 to 200 microns.

Nuance. The tone will be different. The rate of color fading depends on the metal coating.

Calculation of metal roof tiles

Let us illustrate an example of calculating metal tiles for a gable roof with a slope measuring 8 by 5.

The calculation of the number of sheets of metal tiles required to cover a rectangular slope is calculated as follows - the length of the slope along the ridge divided by the width of the sheet.

Nuance. When making calculations, rely on the working width. That is, taking into account overlaps. The sheet dimensions for Monterey metal tiles are shown in the photo.

For example, the length of the slope is 8 m.p. Then you will need 7.27 sheets for work. Round up to the nearest 8 sheets. For two slopes - 15 sheets. Because one sheet is divided in half and used on the second slope.

Nuance. In this case, you will need to start work with half a sheet.

For the convenience of calculating more complex configurations of slopes, you can use the constructor (calculator).

You can make drawings of the roof slopes and draw a diagram for laying metal tiles, i.e. arrangement of sheets.

Nuance. The more complex the slope configuration, the more material waste there will be.

The length of one sheet of metal tile is determined by the height of the slope plus the eaves overhang (about 5 cm). It should be taken into account that the longer the sheet, the less material will be used for overlap. But it is difficult to work with a long sheet, and transporting large metal sheets is expensive. Therefore, it is recommended to break a sheet more than 6 m long into parts. To do this correctly, you need to adjust the resulting length by the amount of overlap. The overlap should be at least 0.15 m for slopes with an inclination angle of more than 25° and 0.2 m for smaller angles. For our example. 5 m.p. divide in half - we will need 1 sheet 2.5 m long, and the second 2.65.

At the same time, the manufacturing technology of metal tiles is such that there are impossible dimensions. Each manufacturer has their own and depends on the equipment used.

Then for the entire roof you need to buy 15 sheets of 2.5 m each and 15 sheets of 2.65 m each.

Calculation of the number of additional elements for metal tiles.

The components include a ridge strip, end and cornice strips, a snow retainer, internal and external valleys.

Calculating additional elements is simple - the total length of the surface to be covered is divided by 1.9 m.p. – (2 m. standard length of the strip, minus an overlap of 0.1 m). For lower valley divided by 1.7. The overlap is 0.3 m.

For our gable roof we need 5 ridge strips (the length of the slope along the ridge is 8 m.); 9 cornice strips ((8+8)/1.9); 11 end. Due to the design of the roof, we do not need a valley.

Special strips. These are custom-made additional elements according to your size.

Self-tapping screws. Their consumption is 7-8 pcs. per sq.m. metal tiles and 3 pcs. by 1 m.p. additional element. The screws should be with a drill, this will simplify installation, and preferably painted in the color of the sheet. This will give the coating a more finished look.

We will need 768 pcs. for sheets and 3x(5+9+11) = 834 pcs. They are usually sold in packs of 250 pieces. Naturally, it is better to take it with a reserve.

Sealing tape for metal tiles. It is recommended to install it under the ridge strip.

Film – equal total area slopes minus overlap allowances. For example, a roll of film usually measures 1.5 by 50 m. = 75 sq.m. The working area of ​​the film is about 65 square meters.

The insulation under the metal tiles is also equal to the total area of ​​the slopes.

The following tools will be useful: a screwdriver, a hammer, a mallet, a tape measure, a marker, a level, a jigsaw or a hacksaw.

Advice. Cutting a sheet of metal tile with a grinder is strictly prohibited. When heated, the coating at the cut site is destroyed and the sheet begins to rust. In addition, sparks can damage the paint throughout the entire sheet.

How to store metal tiles

If you purchased the material before you built the rafter system, you need to know how to properly store metal tiles (especially in winter). The sheets must be laid on a flat area, preferably on a pallet. In addition, it is important to protect the metal from moisture, ultraviolet radiation and provide ventilation. If the sheets will be stored for more than a month, they need to be laid as shown in the photo.

Additional strips are also stored in a lying position.

1. Construction of a rafter system for metal tiles

Installation of metal tiles begins at the stage of lathing installation. It is important to initially secure the sheathing boards at the required distance. Namely, the distance between the first and second boards is 300 mm, then 350 mm, 350 mm is the distance from one bend of the sheet to the next. In professional language, the distance is called a tile.

Advice. At the point where the chimney exits, in the valley, near the windows, you need to make a continuous sheathing.

2. Checking the size of the slope

The main thing is that the roof slopes are smooth and flat.

3. Attaching the eaves strip for metal tiles

The eaves board directs water flowing from the roof into the drainage system.

Nuance. Long brackets for the gutters of the drainage system need to be installed on the eaves board. Short ones can be installed after roofing work is completed.

4. Laying a hydrobarrier film under metal tiles

To prevent the attic from getting wet in case of sudden rain, and also to further protect the insulation from getting wet, a water barrier film is used.

The waterproofing film under the metal tiles is laid on the rafter system in accordance with the description, which contains installation instructions. To avoid leakage, it is necessary to ensure a film overlap of at least 10 cm. For sloping slopes, a minimum of 25 cm. For hip roofs up to 50 cm (in the roof ridges). The film is secured with a construction stapler.

Advice. The film is spread parallel to the end if the roof slope is more than 25°. And parallel to the ridge, if less. In this case, you need to maintain a sag of 1-2 cm along the edge of the rafter leg.

At the exit points of the chimney, antenna, etc. you need to extend the film 4-5 cm onto these elements.

5. Installation of counter-lattice under metal tiles

The counter grille is needed to provide a ventilation gap between the film and the metal tile sheet. Otherwise, at the junction of the film and the metal, it will quickly lose its properties.

For installation, a rail with a cross section of 30 mm and a length of 135 cm is used.

Nuance. When using a high-permeability superdiffusion membrane, a counter-lattice is not needed.

6. Installation of the lower valley

A valley for metal tiles is installed if the roof configuration requires it.

Nuance. It is better to install the lower valley not with screws, but with a clamp. This way it will maintain its integrity, which will reduce the likelihood of leaking. You can make your own kleimer from scrap metal.

7. Installation of the first sheet of metal tiles

To avoid deformation, the sheet is lifted onto the roof using runners (see photo).

Nuance. It is better not to install sheets in strong winds. Loose sheets may bend.

Installation is carried out from right to left, so that each subsequent sheet covers the groove for water drainage on the previous one.

The bottom row of sheets must be mounted so that the sheet hangs over the edge of the rafter system by 50 mm. (this is why the distance between the first and second sheathing boards should be 300 mm, not 350). This is necessary to ensure ventilation and ease of water drainage.

Methods for installing metal tiles are shown in the diagram

The technology for laying metal tiles involves aligning the first sheet along the end of the slope and the eaves. If everything is correct, the sheet is attached to the top using one self-tapping screw. The second sheet is installed with the same requirements and secured to the first sheet. After all the rows are aligned along the eaves overhang, the sheets are firmly attached to the sheathing.

Adviсe:

• You need to move around while performing roofing work. Therefore, it is better to wear shoes with soft soles and step only at the bottom of the wave.

• If during the installation process you need to cut the sheet, it is better to paint the cut area with special paint.

• After installing the sheet, you need to remove the protective film from it (if any). Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, it will crumble and have an ugly appearance. In addition, it will be much more difficult to remove.

8. Fastening metal tiles

Metal tiles are fastened with special self-tapping screws. Availability sealing gum allows you to tighten the screw as tightly as possible without deforming the sheet itself.

The scheme for fastening metal tiles with self-tapping screws is through one wave.

Nuance. Along the length of the end, a self-tapping screw is attached to each tile.

Many people advise mounting the self-tapping screw down the wave. It is not right. Because water flows along the tile gutter, which means that the slightest violation during installation is fraught with the appearance of rust.

The photo below shows that the screw needs to be moved a little to the right.

It is also important to tighten the screw correctly. The fastening rules are shown in the figure.

9. Installation of additional elements

9.1 Installation of valley metal tiles. Depending on the roof structure, an upper valley is installed. When attaching it, try to tighten the screws so that they do not get on the lower screws. If clamps were used, this requirement is omitted.

9.2 Installation of a wind strip on a metal tile. Regardless of the roof configuration, an end (wind) strip must be installed. The overlap of the planks is 10-15 cm. They are fastened with long self-tapping screws. At the rate of 1 self-tapping screw per 1 m.p. planks. The wind strip is laid on top of the tile sheet and fixed with self-tapping screws on both sides.

9.3 Installation of the ridge strip of metal tiles depends on its configuration. When installing a round ridge strip, you need to close the ends with special plugs.

The broken strip fits more tightly to the sheets, so a plug is not needed.

You can protect the ridge of metal tiles from snow and moisture by laying a special ridge sealing tape (ridge seal).

9.4 Next, we install aprons (junction strips) for the metal tiles near the pipes or the junction strip of the slope to the wall. To do this, the wall needs to be grooved 1-1.5 cm. Insert a strip into the resulting strip, and treat the installation site with sealant. It should be noted that the sealant will deteriorate. Therefore, the junction needs to be inspected from time to time and sealed in a new way.

Nuance. It is prohibited to insert the abutment strip into the masonry joint; this may compromise the integrity of the wall. And then the manufacture of a reliable structure at the junction will turn into sabotage.

9.5 Installation of snow guards on metal tiles. Lastly, we install snow retention strips on the sheet of metal tiles. They are simply necessary if the metal tiles are covered with polyester.

Snow guards for metal tile roofs may have the appearance shown in the photo.

Snow guards are often reinforced with an additional strip.

Its cost is low, and the strength of the snow holder increases significantly.

The choice of plank depends on the preferences of the owner, as well as on the intensity of snowfall and the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

How to install snow guards on metal tiles?

The snow retainer bar is located parallel to the cornice in one row or two rows, in a checkerboard pattern.

The final roofing pie is shown in the photo

10. Roof insulation, installation of vapor barrier film and interior decoration

Installation of metal tiles - video instructions

Mistakes when installing metal tiles

In conclusion, I would like to briefly remind you of the most common mistakes in installing metal tiles:

• an uneven slope will result in a lumpy leaf;

• Incorrectly cut sheets can quickly rust. Therefore, do not use an angle grinder;

• incorrectly screwed screws lead to deformation of the sheet;

• you need to use only high-quality self-tapping screws with a special rubber seal;

• saving on high-quality seals leads to snow being blown into the roofing pie or moisture getting in;

• it is better to inspect the sheet several times for scratches and paint it with special paint in time, rather than then admire the rusty streaks;

• use special (custom-made) additional elements if the standard ones do not completely cover the openings. Their production will cost you less than the subsequent replacement of an entire assembly or roofing materials;

• do not buy long sheets of metal tiles. Metal has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that the sheet will play and over time the screws in it will become loose. Therefore, cut the sheet into several parts;

• on the other hand, the more joints, the greater the likelihood of leakage. Therefore, stick to the golden mean;

• maintain the correct amount of overlap.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of metal tiles can be done independently. Sticking to certain rules, laying metal tiles on the roof will be successful and in a short time.

Did you know that even the simplest types of metal tiles can give the roof of your home an elite and modern look? After all, people who come to visit often turn their attention to her. So why not get a luxurious roof for such a low price? And if this is your plan for the near future, then in this article you can read how to lay a metal roof with your own hands step by step, its types, positive and negative sides, and much more.

Types of metal tiles and their protective coatings

When corrosion occurs on metal tiles, developers often blame manufacturers for the poor quality of the metal, but it is worth understanding that this sheet material manufactured to standards that are subject to constant inspection by construction commissions. Therefore, the problem most likely lies elsewhere - in the protective coating. It can last either one year or a full service life.

Therefore, if you are concerned about the reliability of your roof, then you should think about purchasing materials that will more reliably protect your roofing. Today on the construction market you can find the following products:

• Polyester . This material is universal, because it is suitable for almost all climate zones and can withstand a very wide range of temperatures. Maximum corrosion resistance. The price for different polyester manufacturers differs, but remains in average values. When spraying yourself, it is worth considering that the layer must be at least 25 microns
• Matte polyester . As the name implies, this is some kind of offshoot from the standard. Its thickness is usually 35 microns. After spraying, the painted element acquires a richer appearance, which results in increased aesthetic values. Matte painting can imitate natural materials. Corrosion resistance is at an average level, which is also quite good indicator. This material can withstand heat well (up to +120C o), but does not tolerate low temperatures(up to -10C o). Therefore, it is not advisable to use matte polyester in northern latitudes.

Almost 100% corrosion protection of roofing material against corrosion can be achieved by spraying a protective layer of 50 microns. Thanks to this thickness, you can also get rid of the noise of raindrops and hail. A wide temperature range (from +150C o to -90C o) will allow you to use this product anywhere. Ultraviolet rays do not in any way affect the protection of the protective coating, so if you want to protect your roof for a long time, then you should choose this thickness for spraying.

• Pastizol . It is quite outdated material. It is mainly used in highly corrosive environments. The service life of such a protective layer is at least 20 years, has a rich appearance, which sets excellent competition modern coatings. Direct Sun rays Over time, they do not in any way affect the functionality and color of the protection. Relative cheapness makes this material accessible to any developer
• Granite chips . Stone as protection is a bold idea. It is not possible to prepare such a protective coating on your own, but in the store you can find a fairly wide range of such products. They are usually based on polyurethane and granite chips in a ratio of 1 to 1, and of course other binders. The positive aspects of this product are: colossal resistance to physical damage, high protection from solar radiation, and withstands large temperature changes. However, not bad protection, but has a rather high price
• The most ancient and time-tested protection is the coating of the base metal aluminum and zinc . It is believed that a coating of 20 microns is more than enough, however, there is no arguing with this because the average lifespan of such parts is 25 years. One of the important positive qualities is low cost

Before you immediately buy the ones you like roofing coverings Ask the seller what type of polymers are used as a protective coating. If the answer suits you, then you can lay your roof with the purchased material with peace of mind. Otherwise, they will push you a low-quality product, which over time will only become a reason for you to repair it.

IMPORTANT: If sound insulation is of particular importance to you, then you should apply polyurethane coating, but if your home has two floors (residential floor and not residential attic), then you should skip this option, because then the price of the roof will be 30-40% cheaper.

Positive and negative qualities of metal roofing

Each material has its own strengths and weak sides, therefore, in order not to make mistakes, I have prepared small lists for you describing the properties of metal tiles.

And I'll start with the positive:

• The economic benefits in relation to other types of roofing coverings are obvious. The fact is that the material being laid has a low mass, therefore, the installation of complex structures of the rafter system is not required, which entails savings on materials, installation work. Despite being the same cheapness, the material has a fairly long service life - 50 years
• As mentioned above, metal tiles are relatively lightweight roofing material . Its load on the base is in the range of 3.6-5.2 kg/1m2. The use of protective layers of polyurethane will only reduce this figure, but zinc and aluminum will increase it by a whole kilogram. Never take load indicators on the Internet. This is determined individually from each seller, because each manufacturer can produce sheets containing different metal thicknesses (from 0.3 to 1.2 mm)
• High corrosion resistance. If you want to observe the corrosion process on a newly laid roof, you will have to wait a little over 25 years. In addition, the roof is reliably protected from ultraviolet rays, moisture, sudden temperature changes
• Knowledge from physics lessons that metal is not a flammable material will be quite sufficient to declare metal tiles fireproof. The tiles are ideal as a fire-resistant material, which makes them head and shoulders above the same ECO roofs made of straw or other roofs using combustible materials
• Attractive appearance. A metal roof once became an indicator of the owner's status, and this trend continues to this day. Most likely, this is due to the fact that metal is very often used on complex roofs, and they, in turn, are used only in large houses.

Due to its ease of installation, metal roofing can easily be laid with your own hands; by the way, you will learn about this process below.

After looking at everything positive traits material, one might assume that such a product has no negative aspects, but this is still not the case. And these are the sides:

• If you do not purchase soundproofing material, you may suffer from the noise of falling drops or hail during rain. If your building is two-story or has an attic, which you are not going to equip for living quarters, then you can still tolerate this if you are on the ground floor, otherwise such annoying noise will definitely force you to take the necessary measures
• If you make incorrect calculations, you can end up in an awkward situation when material is needed, but it is no longer available. Often this difficulty is encountered when purchasing metal tiles cut to size. It is worth understanding that a complex roof is not a simple system, and, therefore, there will be times when the cut-off part of the material is no longer suitable. As a conclusion, I can say that the installation of metal tiles generates a large amount of waste, which is a negative side
• The smooth surface of the roof during operation can play a cruel joke on you. The fact is that when you fall out large quantity precipitation in winter period time, a situation may arise when they begin to move. As a rule, such a process does not bring anything good. After all, when snow melts from the roof of a building, people passing under it at that moment may suffer. There is a solution to this problem - the installation of snow holders and various types of fences, but this will entail additional costs, again a minus

Most developers do not strive to make an intricate structure out of the roof, quite simple, but of high quality, which is why they are attracted to metal tiles, because everyone can afford to buy such material, and the installation of all structures from scratch can be carried out in the shortest period of time, and this is what I will consider in the following chapters.

Calculation of material requirements

Calculating the materials required to create a good roof can be done in just 30 minutes using a pen and a piece of paper, but this is a rather frivolous task if you do not know the technological process of laying metal tiles. In this case, it is best to trust the professionals.

The calculation process begins with measuring the length of the slopes from the ridge to the very bottom. Don't forget to take into account a small overlap, which is usually 10-15cm. For this simple manipulation you will need to subtract 10cm from each sheet. As for vertical joints, here the overlap will be already 15 cm, but the technique for determining the missing material is exactly the same. The number of rows is determined by dividing the values, where the first will be the long roof, and the second will be the working area of ​​the sheet (taking into account an overlap of 15 cm).

IN modern world Thanks to computers, calculating the exact number of sheets is not difficult; the error is only a couple of centimeters. This is a negligible value when compared with mental calculations.

The length of this roofing covering can reach 12 meters, which in most cases allows you to completely cover the slope with one sheet. If this is possible for you, then you will not only avoid the generation of waste, but also benefit from roof waterproofing, because the fewer joints, the less likely it is for moisture to flow into them.

For device truss structure and its elements, you will need some additional calculations and costs for their acquisition. Please note that in addition to this, you will need to equip your roof with the necessary fences, drains around the perimeter, snow holders, etc.

As you can see, selecting the required amount of material for installing a metal roof can be done with your own hands, but this is only if you have certain knowledge. When knowledge is not enough, turn to specialists.

Installation of vapor barrier and waterproofing layers

You've probably heard that excessive moisture in the air can have a detrimental effect on the lifespan of natural materials such as wood. Therefore, in the process of laying any roofing material, you must first take care of providing some protection.

The work on installing water drainage layers will not take much time and money and will increase the service life of the entire roof by several decades. So what should you do about it?

1. Laying a waterproofing layer. This process is most convenient to carry out when you are at the top. IN in this case- on a skate. It is from there that rolls of waterproofing protection are rolled out. You must understand that waterproofing should not have many holes, so it is best to attach it with construction adhesive tape. Some developers even manage to use double-sided tape, but this is a dubious alternative. The sagging of the material at the cornice should be about 30 centimeters
2. Flooring of insulation boards. Of course you can use it or not tile material, but in general, I think the work is clear. With this work, I hope there will be no problems, and where will they come from? The only snag may be when you cannot fit the insulation board between the rafters. To do this, you will have to cut it into the necessary parts (divide by 5 centimeters more, so that during installation it can remain in place without fastening devices)
3. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. If you decide to save money on this particular item, then you will make the stupidest mistake. Vapor barrier materials needed to remove moisture from insulation layers. Don't ask how she can get in there. Moisture has three state of aggregation and through one of them she will find a way in any case. It is worth noting that even a low water content in insulation boards will negate all its functional qualities. Fastening elements, as a rule, are staplers

In construction, there is a term that brings all these layers together - roofing pie. The construction of this cake should be done in the absence of a strong wind, because the work is carried out with a large area of ​​material, and it can simply fly away or come off the base with a sharp gust of air.

IMPORTANT: As a rule, waterproofing films are produced with directional sides. This means that installation can only be done on certain side. After all, the main task of such a layer is to protect the insulation from moisture and, if necessary, remove it from the slabs.

Covering a roof with metal tiles is not difficult, the main thing is to create the necessary conditions for this - high-quality sheathing.

Do-it-yourself roof sheathing for metal tiles

In almost any field of work, everything can be done using your own strength, the main thing is practice and some knowledge. In the next paragraph, I will describe to you step-by-step instructions on how to build a metal roof, but before that you should pay attention to another important installation process - lathing.

Installation of any element requires a fairly reliable foundation. For roofing material it is sheathing. It usually consists of small blocks of wood 5x5cm. Mounted vertically to the rafters. It is worth paying attention to the device ventilation ducts between the roofing material and the waterproofing layer. 3x10cm boards are used as alternative materials: they are fastened in 0.6m increments across the rafters. The eaves overhang is equipped with slightly thicker boards, for example, 5x10cm. This is due to the higher load. As for the opposite side, i.e. ridge, then it is upholstered with two of the same elements without a gap.

In some documents you can find certain instructions that state that the installation of a curtain rod - compulsory work. It provides decent resistance to strong gusts of wind and excessive moisture on the sheathing. Galvanized nails are used as fastening elements. Their arrangement has a checkerboard appearance, and the distance between them is 30 cm. By the way, just before starting work on constructing such a board, it is worth impregnating it with special solutions to protect it from rotting and drying it thoroughly.

There are two types of sheathing:

• Discharged
• Solid

The first of them is arranged along the entire perimeter of the plane. The elements of such sheathing have a certain step that should be followed. The second type looks like a solid shield. It is installed, as a rule, in places of increased loads and joining of elements, for example, valleys, places around chimneys, joints, eaves overhangs, etc. Wood screws or self-tapping screws are often used as fastening elements.

A roof structure made of metal tiles can have the following types:

• Single-pitch
• Gable
• hip
• Broken and others

As you may have guessed, this roofing material allows you to use absolutely any roofing structure, with the possible exception of a dome-shaped one. This is good fact for manufacturers, because the relative cheapness and wide range of applications make this material so popular among developers of private houses.

When everything is explained, you can answer main question: “how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles?”

DIY metal roof

Any self-respecting man will want to get a good apartment or build his own own house. If you go the second route and do everything yourself, then you should definitely absorb more information on how to cover a metal roof with your own hands. This is exactly what will be discussed in this paragraph.

Working on your own brings moral pleasure, which then develops into some pride in the result. By the way, you can see how to install a metal tile roof with your own hands in the video at the bottom of the article.

Do-it-yourself roofing with metal tiles, step-by-step instructions:

1. Purchase of material. At this stage, according to preliminary calculations, the required amount of roofing product is purchased. It is worth choosing qualitatively, asking the seller as much as possible. Pay special attention to the coating of the material, find out what polymers it is made of protective layer and draw appropriate conclusions
2. Upon delivery of the product to the site, it is worth carefully inspecting it for mechanical damage. After this, move the storage location closer to the installation site
3. Next, we proceed directly to laying the roofing material itself on the prepared base. Before installation, a special protective film is removed from the surface of the sheet product. The location of the first sheet will be the edge of the cornice. Its location should have a small overlap of 5-6 cm. Screws will act as fastening elements. They spin right through the metal in massive board, walking along the perimeter. All measuring work is carried out using a construction tape
4. The next sheet of roofing material is laid a little higher with an overlap of at least 5 cm and secured. Self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are screwed in from different sides, two pieces each. We arrange two more sheets and then check the evenness of the work done
5. Further, all work moves in an already understandable direction. Arrangement of blocks of 2-4 sheets and their subsequent calibration. Do not forget that the overlap should be at least 5cm
6. After laying all the sheets on a plane, end strips are installed in order to protect the newly created roof from rain and wind. They are fastened to the rafters or sheathing using long self-tapping screws. By the way, there are not only wooden end boards, but also PVC products. Their advantage is that they are not subject to corrosion and have higher protection of wood from moisture
7. Roof ridge installation. This element allows you not to align the joints of the top sheets of material; they will disappear under it. The ridge is fastened on both sides with self-tapping screws. In the resulting space, it is worth paying special attention to the waterproofing of materials; the fact is that it is here that the greatest number moisture
8. The final work is finishing the chimney

That's all, the work on installing the roofing material can be said to be completed.

For convenience, all measurements and cutting of metal tiles are best done on the ground.

It is worth covering the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, if you want not only to save money, but also to do this work for the sake of your own pride, I hope the step-by-step instructions I wrote above will help you achieve your plans.

As a conclusion, I can say that work done on your own is an activity worthy of praise, but you should not assume that without certain skills you can create a high-quality and reliable roof. Contact professionals in your field if you find it difficult to carry out one or another stage.

If the text is not enough for you or you want to consolidate what you have read, then here are a few videos on the topic “how to roof a roof with metal tiles with your own hands”

A good roof is the key to keeping your home warm and dry. The service life of the structure and its reliability depend on how high-quality the material you choose and how well you place it. One of the most popular materials on the market is metal tiles.

Technical characteristics of metal tiles

Firstly, this material is very easy to install. Secondly, it easily tolerates various atmospheric influences. Thirdly, it is able to withstand mechanical deformation.

The standard sheet width is one meter and 18 centimeters. The length ranges from half to eight meters. Interestingly, the useful width is only 1.10 m. The sheet thickness is in the range from 0.4 to 0.5 mm.

Attention ! Sheets with large thickness have an increased service life.

On average, the service life of high-quality metal tiles, provided correct installation completely according to the instructions is about 60 years. However, you must take into account that auxiliary materials, such as boards, sealant or insulation can deteriorate much faster. It's no surprise that your roof needs some cosmetic repairs from time to time.

Metal roofing is not subject to fire. Each sheet is lightweight, which greatly simplifies installation. It is also worth noting the versatility of the fastening system. It allows you to bring almost any design fantasy to life.

The color of the metal tiles you select will directly depend on the facade of the house. For example, brown tiles go well with red brick. At the same time, for comfortable installation, the roof slope can be only 14 degrees.

Attention ! Metal tiles are easy to repair. You can always tint it or replace individual sheets. This will allow you to restore the integrity of the entire structure at minimal cost.

The unique properties of metal tiles, if a certain area is damaged, make it possible to avoid installing the entire structure. It is not surprising that most summer residents choose this particular material for their roofs.

Typically, metal tiles are made from galvanized steel. In some cases, copper sheet is used. But in this case, the cost of the product increases several times. For the sake of objectivity, it is worth noting that installation of both types is equally simple.

If we talk about the latest trends in this market segment, then aluminum zinc is increasingly used for the manufacture of metal tiles. This material is considered relatively new. More precisely, it is ordinary a metal sheet, which is coated with an alloy of aluminum, silicon and zinc. As a result, the performance characteristics of the product increase. And installation is still not particularly difficult.

The weight of one square meter of metal tiles ranges from 3.5 to 5 kilograms. This allows for quick installation and easy lifting of roofing sheets even to great heights.

Installation

Stages

Before you begin such a responsible undertaking as installation, you need to know what you will have to do and in what sequence. At the moment, it is best to install metal tiles by performing the following steps:

1. Take accurate measurements.
2. Calculate the amount of material needed for the job. Don't forget to include insulation, insulation and fastening materials in your estimate.
3. Install the rafter system.
4. Install the curtain rod. The gutter hooks will subsequently be attached to it.
5. Hem the roof overhangs.
6. Mount the front board, mounting hooks and gutter.
7. Secure the counter battens.
8. Lay down a waterproofing coating.
9. Around additional elements fasten the battens together with the reinforcing strips.
10. Install the strips on which the cornice will subsequently be mounted.
11. Take care of the apron around the chimney.
12. Install the metal tiles yourself. Install windows if desired.
13. Make the end cap and top carpet, as well as the outside corners and ridge strips.

You should also not forget about the arrangement work. Fences and walkways cannot be ignored. They will ensure your safety if you have to go onto the roof in the future.

Increased attention should be paid to the drainage system. The safety of the foundation of the house depends on how competently you do everything. Moreover, if you install pipes and take care of the tanks, every rain will supply you with water for irrigation.

Important ! Roof grounding is done using a busbar. At the same time, it goes separately from the lightning rod.

At the end of the installation of metal tiles, the roof surface is cleaned of dirt accumulated during work. Processing is also carried out problem areas. For example, if the protective coating is scratched during operation, it can be easily restored.

In addition to external construction work, you also need to do interior finishing. Usually it consists of laying thermal insulation. You also need to take care of the installation of counter rails. In order to prevent condensation from forming inside, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier.

Instructions on how to make calculations when installing metal tiles

Let's take standard galvanized sheets as an example. They have only one protective layer of coating, which can protect the entire structure from various atmospheric influences and mechanical damage.

Metal tiles are galvanized steel sheets with a protective coating. The full width of the sheet is always larger work surface by 80-120 mm, so when choosing a coating, you need to know exactly the size of the site on which the structure will be mounted.

When calculating, you need to take the length of the sheet and divide it by its width. Rounding is done up. Next you will need to measure the roof slope. The correct way to do this is from the bottom up. In the calculations, you need to take into account the cornice overhang, usually 0.05 m is enough. The overlap will be about 0.15 m for each row.

If you buy sheets directly from the factory, you can agree on individual sizes of metal tile panels. In this case, installation will be much easier and faster. However, you will have to pay extra for individual parameters. With this approach to installation, the amount of waste can be reduced. The fact is that sheets can have different sizes. This, in turn, allows them to be installed more efficiently in particularly difficult places.

Important ! It is believed that the most optimal size sheet of metal tiles for installation 4-4.5 meters.

During installation, you need to place the sheets in such a way that the bevels are completely closed. Otherwise, rain moisture will penetrate inside the structure, gradually destroying it. Heavy rains will cause constant leaks.

Making rafters

First you need to calculate the step. It is best to use beams with a section of 150 by 50 millimeters for installing metal tiles. This is the optimal size. The gap between each sheet is 70-80 centimeters. If it increases, it will be necessary to install a sheathing.

Particular attention should be paid to the wood that you will use when installing metal tiles. Its humidity should not be higher than 22%. Also do not forget about antiseptic and fire protection treatment. This will protect the roof from possible fire, fungus and insects.

Curtain board, hemming hooks

When installing metal tiles, grooves are cut into the cornice board. The gutter hook will later be attached to this part of the roof. It will provide the entire structure with the necessary rigidity, thereby guaranteeing safety.

In order to hem the roof overhang and install the fascia board, you will need:

• rafter,
• metal tile sheet,
• waterproofing,
• strip under the cornice,
• frontal board.

By connecting all these elements, you can carry out further installation of metal tiles. It is best to secure the front board with galvanized nails for greater reliability. It is attached to the ends of the rafters.

When installing metal tiles, you must take into account that the space under the roof must be ventilated. To make this possible, it is necessary to make ventilation slots. For filing, it is best to use corrugated sheeting.

The hemming block is placed on the wall at the same level as the lower part of the front board. You will need to lay boards between them. The result of your work will be the sheathing.

Important ! Ventilation openings must be insulated. Otherwise, they will become a home for birds.

The hooks are needed to place the gutters on them. Installation of these fixing elements is an important part of the installation of metal tiles. They need to be attached to the cornice board.

First, the grooves are made. Only then is installation of the hooks carried out. The distance between them is equal to the distance between the rafter beams. The fastening is based on self-tapping screws.

Installation of lathing under metal tiles

Installation of the sheathing includes the installation of reinforcement strips. Also, for high-quality support of metal tiles you will need:

• rafter;
• waterproofing and vapor barrier film;
• counter rack;
• initial, vertical and horizontal sheathing;
• insulation.

When installing metal tiles, the initial sheathing is mounted under the top of the sheet. Its cross-section should exceed all other sheathing by the size of the wave height. Laying runs strictly parallel to the cornice

Important ! The distance between the two battens that are laid first should be 28 centimeters, between all the others 35.

Before installing the sheathing to support the metal tiles, you need to install fastenings for all additional structural elements. Otherwise you will have to break the entire structure.

When installing sheathing under metal tiles, special attention should be paid to the ridge strip. Two additional strips are nailed on top of the rafters. The distance between them should be 50 millimeters from each other.

Installation of snow guards on metal tiles

Tubular snow guards are mounted using special supports around the tiles. Initially, these structures were made of wood. Now the main material is steel.

Install snow guards on the metal tiles parallel to the cornice. The distance between them should be 0.5-0.8 m. Place wooden blocks at the fastening points.

Attention ! Some metal tiles are already equipped with special projections.

Results

As you can see, installing metal tiles with your own hands is a completely feasible task for every person. It is enough to follow the steps described in the article and use quality materials. The most important thing is to carry out the calculations correctly so that you don’t have to buy additional sheets or waterproofing film later.

Metal tiles are one of the types of roofing material, which over the years of use has proven itself only with positive side. It is universal, reliable and quite accessible to any category of developers due to its reasonable cost. Installing a metal roof with your own hands requires excellent knowledge of the subject. But even if all the work is entrusted professional builders, it doesn’t hurt to have an idea of ​​the general principles of installation in order to competently control the process.
From correct installation the duration of its trouble-free operation in the future will depend on the coating.

Sequence of actions when installing a metal tile roof

• Measuring the roof to accurately calculate the amount of all materials, including insulation, vapor and waterproofing insulators, as well as fasteners
• Installation of the rafter system
• Installing the eaves board to attach the gutter hook
• Roof overhang trim and fascia installation
• Installation of gutter hooks
• Fastening the counter-lattice along the rafters, installing a waterproofing coating
• Installation of sheathing and reinforcing strips where necessary (that is, around additional roof elements - roof windows, hoods, chimneys, along the ridge)
• Installing a cornice strip
• Installation of the bottom valley carpet
• Installation of an “apron” around the chimney
• Direct installation of metal roofing, installation of dormer and/or roof windows
• Installing the end strip
• Installation of the upper valley carpet
• Junction strips: installation
• Installation of external corners and ridge strips
• Installation of fencing and bridges
• Installation of a drainage system
• Work on grounding the roof with a bus, separate from the lightning rod bus
• Pre-final stage of installation - cleaning the surface, applying paint to problem areas
• Working with the rafter system: laying thermal insulation and installing counter battens
• Installation of vapor barrier, its fastening

Instructions for calculating metal roof tiles

Metal tiles are galvanized steel sheets with a decorative protective coating. The full width of the sheet is always 80-120mm greater than the working width, so when choosing a coating, you need to know exactly the size of the working area.

In order for the calculation of the number of sheets of roofing material to be accurate, the longest length of the metal tile sheet must be divided by its working width. The result obtained is rounded to maximum figure(calculation is carried out horizontally of the slope).

The number of sheets in one row and their total length are calculated using the following parameters:

• The length of the slope is measured from the top of the roof to the bottom
• The eaves overhang is taken into account - 0.05 m
• The vertical overlap of sheets is 0.15 m per row. If the length of the metal tile sheets allows the covering to be laid in one row, the overlap is not taken into account

After measurements, all indicators are added up - this will be the required length.
If the manufacturer cuts the sheets according to individual measurements, then the calculation of the metal tiles for the roof is made by his representatives. With a personal approach, the amount of waste is reduced. Metal tiles can be of different sizes: from 70cm to 12m. Most best option– from 4 to 4.5 m.
At the point of contact with another slope, the sheet of tile should be of such length that the slopes are completely covered.

Installation of rafter system

It is better not to calculate the pitch and cross-section of the rafters yourself, but to invite specialists for this purpose. The fact is that if the measurements are taken incorrectly, the heavy metal tile roof will definitely sag - and very quickly.

Typically, rafter beams with a cross section of 150x50mm and 100x50mm are used. The optimal distance between them is considered to be 60-90cm. If for some reason it needs to be increased, the sheathing should be laid across.

The maximum wood moisture content should be within 22%. Before installation, it is necessary to carry out fire protection and antiseptic treatment.

Before starting work, the roof slopes must be checked diagonally. The perimeter of the roof should be rectangular. In addition, you need to make sure that the fractures of the slopes and the eaves ridge are horizontal.

When choosing metal tiles as a covering, you should take into account the roof slope - at least 14 degrees.

Curtain board: installation

In order to mount the cornice board, grooves are cut out in the rafters. This board, designed for the gutter hook, provides additional rigidity to the entire system.

Roof overhang trim and fascia installation

The front board is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. It is needed to ensure the entire structure is more reliable.
The under-roof space must be ventilated, therefore, in the process of filing the roof overhang, it is necessary to provide ventilation slots. Corrugated sheeting, siding, lining, etc. are used as materials for filing. When arranging the hem, you need to hammer the block onto the wall. It should be located at the same level as the bottom of the front board.
Next stage: between horizontal beam and crossbars are nailed to the front board. The result is a sheathing on which you need to attach the sheathing in such a way that there are ventilation gaps. It is advisable to isolate them from birds and insects with a fine mesh net.

Installation of gutter hooks

Gutters are installed before the metal roofing installation begins. The hooks on which they are laid are attached either to the cornice board or to the rafters. The distance between the hooks must match the distance between the rafter beams. First, the grooves are cut, then the hooks are inserted into them with the base, bent and secured with self-tapping screws.

Installation of waterproofing coating and ventilation system

In order to prevent metal corrosion and wood rotting roofing structure Insulating coverings and ventilation are necessary.

The ratio of the area of ​​ventilation gaps to the total area of ​​the roof should be in proportions of one to one hundred. Ventilation gaps are located according to the area of ​​each slope. For example, the area of ​​the slope is 100 m2, therefore, the area of ​​the gaps will be 1 m2.

There is an influx of air at the eaves, and an outflow at the ridge. Both indicators of the eaves and ridge ventilation area must be equal, so the total indicator for a particular slope is divided in half. This will ensure uniformity in the flow of air in and out.

The air flow throughout the entire under-roof space should be uniform, and nothing should interfere with it. This is ensured:

• Ventilation gap at the roof ridge, as well as dormer windows
• Through air flow between the roof and waterproofing coating, as well as between thermal and waterproofing
• Ventilation gaps in the cornice sheathing

Waterproofing device

The waterproofing layer prevents contamination and water from entering under the roof. In addition, thanks to it, water vapor easily escapes into the ridge ventilation gap.

One of three types of waterproofing films are used.

• Superdiffusion membranes.
• Anti-condensation materials.
• Classic waterproofing.

If applicable classic version, then the ventilation should be double-circuit: between the roofing material and the waterproofing, as well as between the insulation and the waterproofing.

The superdiffusion membrane is placed directly on the insulation; single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the roofing material and the membrane itself.

When laying anti-condensation materials there must be double-circuit ventilation. The peculiarity of this material is that it has a fleecy structure; water is absorbed into the pile, after which it dries quickly in warm and sunny weather.

Regardless of the type of waterproofing film, the gap should be 3-5cm.

One of the answers to the question “how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles” will be compliance with the immutable rule: bitumen-based waterproofing is not used under tiled roof no way.

Nuances of proper installation

The first row of waterproofing film must begin to be rolled out from the eaves in a horizontal direction. The overlap of one strip over another must be at least 15cm; this boundary is designated by the manufacturers and runs along the entire roll in the form of a strip. Used to isolate overlap areas adhesive tape, and the strips are fastened together with a construction stapler.

The overlaps should not be in the gaps, but directly on the wooden structural elements - that is, on the spacer bars, counter-battens, rafters, sheathing. When laying waterproofing, keep in mind that turning the material over reverse side This is not possible, such an arrangement of the film will not provide protection from moisture.

The film should be laid with a margin - that is, it should sag between the rafters by about 20mm. This is necessary in order to prevent its breakage or tension under the influence weather conditions(cold) or due to possible shifts in the truss structure.

Since anti-condensation and classic films require double-circuit ventilation, the rafter should protrude beyond the level of thermal insulation by 3-5 cm. If the thermal insulation layer is equipped in such a way that it is flush with the rafters, a spacer bar having a cross-section of 30x50mm must be placed along the beam. This will ensure the creation of a ventilation channel in the gap between the waterproofing and insulation.

The superdiffusion membrane is rolled directly along the rafters. If the rafter protrudes above the thermal insulation, then the membrane must be rolled out so that it wraps around it.

The waterproofing layer must be arranged so that it protrudes at least 20 cm beyond the wall line - both at the roof overhang and at the eaves. In the area of ​​the eaves, the waterproofing material must be taken out along the rafters and attached with special tape. If a membrane acts as a waterproofing material, then it will be easier to recognize damage to the roof - by the volume of incoming water.

At the junctions of the slopes, the overlap of the film panels on each other should be from 15 to 20 cm.

It is advisable to waterproof ventilation and chimney pipes with a double layer. The first layer is made with an overlap to a height of about 5 cm, the second is laid on top of the first.

If you plan to make the attic cold, that is, without insulation, waterproofing films should still be used. Due to the difference in external and internal temperatures, the metal tiles will “sweat”; the film must be laid under the sheets of tiles with an interval of at least 5 cm. Thanks to this installation, the temperature inside and outside the profile will be the same. With this type of attic, anti-condensation materials are best suited.

Installation of sheathing and reinforcement strips

Before covering the roof with metal tiles, you need to properly install the sheathing.

The cross-section of the initial lathing must necessarily be larger than the others by the size of the wave height, because it is mounted under the upper edge of the sheet step. It must be laid strictly parallel to the cornice, the distance between the first two battens should be 28cm, between all the rest - 35cm.

When installing the sheathing, you should prepare in advance the attachment points for all additional elements that will be located on the roof.

The ridge strip must be secured especially well, so under the place where it will be located, you need to nail two additional boards on both sides, 50 mm apart, on top of the rafters.

Where the slopes join each other (in the valleys), a continuous sheathing is made around the attic windows and chimneys.

When installing a metal tile roof with your own hands or with the participation of specialists, gable overhangs are sometimes made. In this case, the horizontal sheathing boards must be extended to the length of the overhangs, and a reinforcing bar must be installed from the eaves to the ridge, to which an end board pre-coated with waterproofing is attached. The overhang is hemmed using connecting bars, which, in turn, are nailed between the end board and the rafters. The end board is taken out from the wall and strengthened so that it completely covers the side waves of the metal tile, as well as the counter-lattice and sheathing.

Installing a cornice strip

Before laying the metal tiles, the eaves strip is strengthened over the gutter hooks. Its tension should be maximum so that it is resistant to wind. The plank is mounted to the cornice and frontal boards with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30 cm from each other. The overlap in length is made from 5 to 10 cm.

Installation of the valley

Where the joints of the slopes form negative angles, provision is made for the installation of valleys. Before installing the lower ends, a continuous sheathing is made of boards, the cross-section of which should be 150x25mm. They are laid on both sides of the joint along a length of 30 cm. The result is a wooden gutter, which is protected from the inside with a waterproofing coating. The valley is secured with self-tapping screws, maintaining a distance of 300mm between them. The cornice board is located under the lower edge of the valley.

A horizontal valley joint requires an overlap of at least 100mm. In the case of a very obtuse angle, the valley should be protected with an additional waterproofing layer, which is laid lengthwise. It is advisable to compact the metal tiles and the lower valley by laying a porous self-expanding material between them.

Installation of an “apron” around the chimney pipe

In those places where the chimney opens onto the roof surface, it is necessary to equip the internal parts of the connection.

• The abutment strips are usually selected in the same color as the roofing material; their size must be appropriate
• It is necessary to make a groove in the pipe with a not very large upper slope, its depth should be at least 15mm
• Using heat-resistant waterproofing, it is necessary to bring it to the pipe. The outlet must be at least 50mm. The cut is glued to the pipe with special construction tape

Where the pipe comes out of the roof, wrap it with film - this could be “Ecobit”.

After covering the roof with metal tiles, the time comes for the final stage - the decorative outer “apron” is installed. External junction strips must be placed on the pipe, the outer part of which is placed in the groove. Then they are insulated with heat-resistant sealant. The lower part of the plank is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.

Ventilation between the pipe and the rafters must be ensured by an optimal distance between them.

To protect a brick pipe from cracking in case of strong heating (and this happens if the brick is wet), you need to wrap it in a steel sheet coated with a polymer. For ventilation, be sure to leave a gap of 20mm.

The round chimney is insulated in the place where it goes out onto the roof with a special tape - “Ecobit” or similar. It has a self-expanding base, which allows for excellent sealing through hole by its diameter.

How to cover a roof with metal tiles

To make it easier to lift sheets of metal tiles onto the roof, you need to install special logs. If the roof surface is large, or there is nowhere to store metal tiles on the ground, or there is some other reason why it is not very convenient to constantly feed sheets from the ground, you can install racks on the roof. They will serve for temporary storage of building materials. In order not to damage the coating of the sheets, they should be laid on slats, separating one from the other. Protective film is removed from the tiles immediately after installation.

To avoid damaging the metal tiles, you need to walk on them very carefully. If you have to move along the surface, you need to step into the gap between the waves. If you need to walk across, you need to walk along the fold. In any case, carry out installation only with soft shoes to completely prevent damage to the sheets.

During rainy weather, there is a concern that where one sheet overlaps another, water may seep in, rising above the drainage level. This is the so-called capillary effect, in which moisture is squeezed out between sheets pressed against each other.

To prevent this from happening, each metal tile sheet has a special groove, thanks to which water that has seeped under the sheet can drain away calmly. If there are varieties of metal tiles, where a groove is provided on both sides of the sheet, but usually it is on the right. When laying the coating, you need to ensure that the capillary groove of the previous sheet is covered by the next one.

The installation of the coating begins with laying the first sheet; subsequent ones can be installed either on the right or on the left. The direction is chosen on the basis of “what is most convenient”. But, in any case, you need to start from the side where there are no cuts or bevels, and there is no need to trim the sheet. Laying continues towards another slope - either to the inter-slope valley, or to the oblique ridge.

If installation is done from right to left, then all subsequent sheets fall on the outermost wave of the previous ones. The capillary groove closes on the left.

If the roofing material is installed from left to right, to cover the capillary groove, the edge of the subsequent sheet is placed under the wave of the previously laid one. Installing metal tiles in this way is easier than the previous method, because one sheet is secured with another, which eliminates its unexpected shift. But there is a risk of accidentally scratching polymer coating.

No matter how complex the roof structure is, all sheets must be aligned parallel to the eaves line in a horizontal direction. The overhang behind the cornice should be 50mm.

When calculating how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles, you should know that this can be done in several ways.

With this method of laying from right to left, the first sheet must be aligned according to the end and cornice, after which it is temporarily secured with a self-tapping screw in the center next to the ridge. The next sheet is laid down with one wave on top and aligned to match the position of the first sheet, after which they are fastened together. In this way, you need to lay out no more than four sheets, connecting them all together in turn. The result is a block that needs to be aligned with the cornice, leaving an allowance for the overhang. Then the entire structure is attached to the sheathing. Most last page There is no need to screw until the next block is aligned.

This installation method involves laying the sheets in this way: the alignment of the first sheet, laid in the direction from right to left, is done along the end and the cornice. A second sheet is fixed over the first one with an overlay - with a self-tapping screw in the center at the ridge (temporarily). After which they are aligned and fastened together with self-tapping screws. The third sheet is placed on the left side of the first, and they are also fastened to each other. A third sheet is mounted above the third sheet (similar to the first and second). The finished block is equalized to the end and cornice, respectively, then the final fastening to the sheathing occurs.

Laying metal tiles on triangular slopes

Before you start installing metal tiles on a triangular slope, you need to make a marking in its center and draw a center line through it. The same line is drawn along the metal tile sheet; after combining them, the sheet is attached to the ridge with a self-tapping screw. The installation of the remaining sheets is carried out on both sides of the first - the same as in the first two cases.

When tiles are installed on slanting ridges, in valleys and on triangular slopes, the sheets must be trimmed. This can be done right on the roof. The tiles are marked on special device- “devil.” It is arranged like this: two boards are parallel to one another, the other two are placed on them perpendicularly and are loosely fastened. The width of each should be 100mm. The distance from the left board (its internal edge) to the right (external edge) is 1100 mm.

Oblique ridges and valleys: markings

Another sheet to be cut is superimposed on the whole sheet. After installing the “devil,” its loosely secured boards rotate. The transverse boards are installed horizontally, and the vertical board with its inner side lies on the valley (oblique ridge). After proper installation, the loose sheet is marked. The line must be drawn next to (parallel) with outside second vertical board, which does not lie on the ridge (endow). After this procedure, the sheet is removed. It must be cut strictly according to the markings and connected to the fixed sheet. Other sheets are mounted in a similar way.

Laying metal tiles: main points

• The sheet is secured at the point of contact with the sheathing, between the waves
• The bottom sheets are mounted to the initial lathing through the wave above the step
• Sheets of subsequent rows are attached to minimum distance to the step
• From the end board, metal tiles are fixed into each wave
• The sheets must be pulled to the lathing
• In places of vertical overlap, the sheets are screwed with 5.5x19 self-tapping screws into the decline of the wave

Having figured out how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles, you need to pay attention to some of the nuances of sheet processing. Namely:

• When cutting sheets, it is forbidden to use grinders - you can burn through the coating, which will lead to corrosion
• Metal tiles should be cut with electric cutting shears, a hacksaw or a jigsaw with a metal blade. Hand scissors for metal are also applicable.

Damage to the polymer coating must be treated with paint.

Installing the end strip

U end strip not only a decorative, but also a protective function. This additional element prevents sheet fastenings from loosening due to wind influences, and also protects the wooden parts of the structure from moisture.

To prevent moisture from getting under the coating, the top ridge must be covered with an end strip.

Upper valley: installation

The functional purpose of this element is to improve the appearance of joints, as well as to remove moisture from internal corner. When strengthening the upper valley with self-tapping screws, you need to make sure that they do not break through the middle part of the lower valley - this threatens to damage the waterproofing layer.

Junction strips: installation

On roof breaks

Roofing breaks are divided into two types: reverse and straight. When installing waterproofing on such a roof, you need to ensure that the coating is completely sealed.

If the slope has a straight bend, the sheathing boards are placed as close as possible to one another. The metal tile sheet should cover the fracture site, protruding slightly above it. The cornice strip can be used as a mating element. A sealant should be placed between the strip and the tiles.

If the roof has a reverse fracture, in this case it is used wall connection, which plays the role of a mating element. It is laid on the lower slope with the rolled side. At the break point, the sheathing boards should be as close to each other as possible. A sealant must be laid between the junction and the tile sheet.

Installation of an abutment to a wall is no different from a similar arrangement of abutments to chimneys.

Installation of external corners and ridge strips

The waterproofing film under the ridge is torn along its entire length by at least 20 cm in width. To eliminate this drawback, care should be taken to install additional waterproofing on additional boards (solid sheathing). At the same time, it should be at least 15 cm wider than the gap in the bottom layer.

The ridge is fastened to the sheathing of the upper ridge on both sides using special ridge screws. It must be screwed through the wave, the ends are insulated with plugs. In order for the ridge to be semicircular in shape, it needs to be extended by overlapping the stiffening ribs.

How to cover a roof with metal tiles: additional elements

Roof railing, walkway and staircase to the attic

This necessary details, which complete the main part of the roof installation. Install them according to the instructions that come with them. Where all these elements will be attached to the roof, a continuous sheathing must be installed. The bridge, fence and ladder are screwed with self-tapping screws through a rubber gasket into the deflection of the wave.

Snow catcher

This element is necessary to prevent ice and snow accumulating on the roof from falling down in large blocks. In the process of installing the sheathing in those places where the snow catcher will be located, bars are placed under the crest of the wave. A snow catcher is installed under the second transverse step of the sheet strictly parallel to the cornice.

When installing a snow catcher (its upper part), it is necessary to use a reinforcing strip. It is attached simultaneously with the upper edge of the element with ridge screws directly to the sheathing through the top point of each wave. The edge of the bottom is attached according to the same principle, only every second wave. If the slopes are large, snow catchers are placed in several rows.

Installation of gutters

Installation of a drainage system requires the following tools:

• marking cord
• screwdriver
• ruler or tape measure
• scissors and hacksaw for metal
• pliers
• rubber or wooden mallet

Before laying metal tiles on the eaves board or rafters, you must first install long hooks. If for some reason the hooks have to be installed after laying the covering, they are secured to the frontal board and made shorter in size. But this is not the most The best way, since fastening with long hooks is more durable.

The step between hooks of both the first and second types should be from 60cm to 90cm. Long distances are irrational, since in this case the structure may not withstand the pressure of the snow or ice mass. Where the junctions of the gutters are located, additional hooks are required.

To ensure better moisture drainage, the slope of the gutter should decrease with each linear meter by 5mm. To complete this task, before installation you need to make markings taking into account the vertical displacement of the hooks.

When calculating the number of funnels, you need to keep in mind that one pipe should account for no more than 10 meters of gutter and 120 m2 of roof area. To ensure that moisture drains into the funnel, a V-shaped hole must be cut in the gutter. Its width should be no more than 110mm, and the distance from the cutout to the top of the gutter should be at least 15mm. The optimal gap between the funnel and the gutter end is 150mm. Installation process:

• the funnel should be placed on the gutter
• the fastening is done on the outside of the gutter; the lock must have a rolled side
• finally secured by bending the clamps into the inside of the gutter

The end parts of the gutter must be equipped with plugs (in case they are open and do not connect to anything). The joint between the gutter and the plug is treated with silicone sealant. You can also use rivets.

Once the gutters are installed, it's time for the eaves trim. Its lower part should be in the gutter so that the front board does not get wet.

Water should flow into the gutter unhindered; this is ensured by a waterproofing film under the bar.

In order for the drainage system to function normally, a full inspection of all drains is carried out once a year, and cleaning of funnels and gutters from debris should be done regularly.

Roof grounding

The roof must be additionally grounded, regardless of the lightning rod. This ensures the safety of residents in the event of a direct lightning strike on the roof.

Completion of work: finishing touches

After completing the installation of the tile roof, it needs to be put in order: remove construction debris, treat damaged areas with paint to prevent rust. After three months, tightening the screws is mandatory.

During operation, metal roofing requires regular maintenance. Twice a year it needs to be cleaned of debris, dry leaves and other objects. This work is done with a rag or a soft brush. The fastest way to do the procedure is with a water jet - from top to bottom. To avoid damage, it is advisable to walk on the roof only in soft shoes.

Metal tiles are a modern roofing material that successfully combines an attractive appearance ceramic tiles with light weight and inexpensive price metal coatings. Its advantages include good performance, corrosion resistance and long service life. It is important that, knowing the features of this material and having basic construction skills, you can easily cover the roof with metal tiles on your own. Installing metal tiles with your own hands is reminiscent of the process of creating a multi-layer cake, the components of which improve and complement each other. In this article we will describe step by step a proven “recipe” that creates a reliable, high-quality roofing from metal profile.

Laying metal tiles with your own hands is a proven way to quickly and inexpensively cover the roof of a garage, garden or small residential building. This roofing covering is one of the types of metal profiles that has a wavy relief that resembles the shape of traditional tiles. Metal tiles are made of galvanized steel, which is coated with a polymer coating made of pural, plastisol or polyester during the production process. A roof made from this material has the following advantages:

• A light weight. One square meter of metal roofing weighs 3.5-4.5 kg, which allows you to increase the pitch between the elements of the rafter frame, reducing the cost of constructing the roof.
• Mechanical strength. A roof made of this material has high strength and load-bearing capacity, so it can easily withstand snow and wind loads, even if the pitch between the rafters is quite large.
• Corrosion resistance. A roof made of metal profiles is not subject to the destructive effects of corrosion, because it is reliably protected by a layer of zinc and a polymer coating.
• Long service life. A do-it-yourself metal tile roof lasts more than 20 years, thanks to high quality metal and strength of polymer protection.

Important! Knowing how to cover a roof with metal tiles yourself, you can save a lot of money, because installing a roof covering costs 50-70% of the cost of purchasing materials.

Roofing pie composition

Do-it-yourself installation of metal tiles involves creating a multi-layer roofing pie, which consists of a vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing and the actual coating itself. In order for a roof made of metal profiles to last a long time, it is worth choosing the right structural components that match each other and following the rules prescribed by the installation instructions. The roofing pie for metal tiles consists of the following parts:

1. Vapor barrier. This is the name for a film that allows steam to pass through, but blocks water and condensation, protecting the insulation from getting wet. The vapor barrier must be laid on the lower surface of the rafters and secured with a construction stapler.
2. Rafter legs. To cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate the pitch between the rafters and install them evenly on ridge run and Mauerlat. The strength and load-bearing capacity of the roof depends on how many rafters the roofing material supports.
3. Thermal insulation. Thermal insulation is installed between the rafters of the frame, so the step between them must correspond to the width of the insulation.
4. Waterproofing. Waterproofing must be laid over the rafters so that it protects the wooden frame elements from condensation or atmospheric moisture.
5. Lathing. This element of the rafter frame is used to distribute the weight of the roofing material. Roofing material must be laid on the sheathing. The pitch between its slats is chosen in accordance with the weight of the coating and the angle of inclination of the slope.
6. Roofing material. Do-it-yourself metal tiles are laid on the sheathing. For fixation, special roofing screws are used.

Please note that there are 2 types of metal roofing – warm and cold. A cold roof is different from warm absence as part of the roofing pie, the thermal insulation layer and vapor barrier. This design is cheaper, but can only be used in cases where the attic or second floor is not heated.

Rafter frame and sheathing

Before covering the roof with metal tiles, it is necessary to assemble the rafter frame. The frame is a kind of supporting skeleton of a structure that supports its geometry, and also distributes and transfers the weight of the roof to the foundation of the structure. It is made from wood coniferous species impregnated with antiseptic and fire retardant, or metal. Metal rafter system It costs more, but can withstand heavy loads, so you can increase the pitch between elements. The roof frame is assembled in the following sequence:

1. First of all, the Mauerlat is installed. The support beam is laid on top harness at home, secured with metal pins embedded in concrete, or anchor bolts. The Mauerlat is made of timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm and is mounted on the walls on which the roof slopes will rest. How many slopes a roof has - so many support beams are needed.
2. Then, tightening ties are installed to connect the Mauerlat in increments of 1-1.2 meters. The puffs are made from timber 100x100 mm or 100x150 mm.
3. Install vertical racks in the middle of each puff in increments of 1-1.2 m. In order for them to stand vertically, they are supported with temporary slopes.
4. A ridge run needs to be placed on top of the posts. This is the name of the beam that forms, the rafter legs will rest on it.
5. Next, it is necessary to install the rafter legs of the frame in increments of 0.6-1.2 m. The spacing between the rafters depends on how much the roof covering weighs, the cross-section of the element and the width of the insulation.
6. The rafters must be covered with waterproofing to protect against condensation and atmospheric moisture. The film should be laid “slack” so that it does not tear under water pressure.
7. Lastly, you need to install the sheathing from slats with a section of 30x30 mm or sheets moisture resistant plywood. The pitch between the sheathing elements is chosen in accordance with the weight of the roofing material and how many degrees the angle is between the surface of the slope and the base of the roof. The flatter the roof, the denser the sheathing should be, and the smaller the step between the rivers.

Important! It is possible to cover a roof with metal tiles, regardless of its design. The minimum recommended slope for this type of roofing material is 12-15 degrees. If the roof is flatter, then the installation is carried out with the obligatory treatment of the joints with sealant to prevent leaks.

Insulation

Before laying metal tiles, you should take care of the protection wooden elements frame from steam, condensation and moisture. Metal roofing coverings have high thermal conductivity, so they heat up quickly, but they also give off heat easily, so they need to be insulated. During the construction of a metal roof, 3 types of insulation are installed:

• Vapor barrier. The instructions for laying metal profiles require the mandatory installation of a vapor barrier on the lower surface of the rafter legs. This role is played by special membranes that allow air to pass through, but block water, preventing the insulation from getting wet. Indeed, with increasing humidity thermal insulation material by just 5% its effectiveness is reduced by half and is not restored after drying.
• Thermal insulation. Insulation is laid between the rafters to maintain the temperature in the house. It protects against cold air in winter and prevents heating of the under-roof space from the hot roof in summer. Mineral wool, ecowool, glass wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam are used as insulation. How many layers of insulation are needed to protect a house from freezing is calculated in accordance with climatic conditions.
• Waterproofing. Waterproofing material, protecting rafter frame and insulation against moisture ingress are laid on top of the rafter legs. Strips of film or diffuse membrane are mounted in overlapping strips to prevent water from flowing between them.

Experienced craftsmen claim that it is impossible to properly cover a roof with metal tiles without using all three types of insulation in a comprehensive manner. Only by working together do insulation, vapor barrier, and waterproofing become effective.

Covering flooring

Instructions on how to properly lay metal tiles are popular among inexperienced craftsmen. To work with this unpretentious roofing material, no special skills or complex tools are required. Laying the covering will be done using roofing screws, a screwdriver, building level and sealant and a circular saw with a metal disc. The process of laying a metal profile is as follows:

1. Before laying metal tiles, the sheets are first cut. To simplify this task, you can purchase metal tiles whose sheet length corresponds to the size of the slope, then there will be no horizontal joints during installation and you won’t have to cut the material. In other cases, to cut the coating to size, use circular saw or jigsaw.
2. Then the metal tiles are laid. The bottom row is laid out first, starting from the edge of the slope. An overlap of 10-23 cm or 1-2 waves is made between the sheets. The flatter the roof, the greater the overlap.
3. The joints between the sheets can be treated with sealant silicone based to prevent leaks.
4. Each sheet of metal tile is fixed using galvanized self-tapping screws equipped with a wide press washer, which closes the mounting hole from water penetration.
5. After laying the covering, the ridge, ends, and eaves of the slope are decorated using additional elements, and drainage elements are installed.

Important! Knowing how to lay metal tiles correctly, without resorting to the services of a professional team of builders, you can significantly reduce construction costs. Handle your roof decking with this practical and lightweight material You can do it together in 3-5 days.

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