When creating a miniature house for your favorite doll, you need to decide on the main material from which the house will be built. Cardboard is a lightweight, but not very durable material. A house made of cardboard can easily be damaged during transportation or simply getting wet. Plywood is very durable material, but also quite heavy - this fact is worth taking into account. But PVC is a fairly durable and at the same time light weight material.
For more convenient transportation, the house should be made of two separate parts. Do-it-yourself miniature crafts require some skill and perseverance, but such a toy house can be made without much effort.
Making the base
Basic materials for creating a house:
- Cardboard.
- Plywood.
Layout finished house can be found to suit your taste on the Internet. After which it should be transferred to paper base and make a preliminary fitting of the structure. If everything is satisfactory, we transfer the parts onto PVC using a pencil. Be careful when cutting. The house can have completely different sizes, windows and doors. This is a matter of imagination and taste of the needlewoman. A child could make a building like this school age independently or baby with the help of parents. A preschooler will be very happy to paint a house for his favorite doll.
You can cover the house with acrylic paint. However, as practice shows, when the surface is scratched, the paint begins to peel off. For greater durability and beauty, the structure can be cover with paper. The paper can be anything from corrugated paper to cheap toilet paper. Believe me, there will be no difference. The paper must be torn into pieces of arbitrary size and shape and glued to the facade of the house. It is advisable that the pieces lie in different directions, thereby forming an interesting texture on the walls.
When working, you should give preference to shoe glue or glue gun, since PVA is not so durable and takes a long time to dry. The ends should be sealed in such a way that a small fold is formed into the building. Get ready - the work will take some time, but the result will then exceed any expectations of both an adult and a child. The roof of the house should also be covered with paper. To save time, it must be covered with large strips of paper material. Then it will be covered with artificial tiles and will not be visible to the eye.
Tools and materials
After the entire structure has acquired texture, it can be painted. For this process, prepare:
- Acrylic paints different colors.
- A brush.
- Glass of water.
- A paper napkin.
Roof and tiles
No building can be imagined without tiled roof. For making tiles You need to prepare ordinary cardboard. From it you need to cut pieces of 1x1 cm, which will be rounded on one side. Do-it-yourself miniature crafts require the time of their creator. This work is painstaking and requires perseverance.
Each piece of tile must be painted Brown or impregnated with stain (don’t be surprised - it turns out to be a pretty realistic base). After all the fragments of the future roof have dried, they can be glued to the base. Gluing must be done in rows so that each subsequent row slightly overlaps the previous one. You should not glue the tiles evenly, because real life Not everything is perfect. In order to enhance the realistic effect of the roof, it is necessary to wet it a little with ordinary water and blur the edges of the tiles with a brush. It's okay if the edges of the roof get a little cracked and wet.
House painting
Walls of a doll's house needs to be painted white, but the roof should turn black. These colors are considered the ideal base for drawing and painting, so we won’t invent anything new.
In order for the building not to seem too flat due to exclusively white walls, they need to be given texture with the help of discreet shades. Apply a pink tint to the surface with a thin brush, and then immediately rub it in with a cotton pad. Speed is important in this matter, since acrylic paints dry almost instantly. The end result, thanks to the pink color, should be raised areas of texture on the walls.
You can transform your home with more than just pink. After it dries, you can add dotted strokes brown or greenish color. After applying it, the shade should be washed off with water, and the excess should be removed with a napkin or cotton pad. You should not abuse water, because it can ruin all the previously done work to transform the doll’s home.
Window frames must be made of wooden slats or simply sticks that were found on the street, dried, and then thoroughly cleaned. There is no need to observe special proportions in this work. The rougher and more primitive the wooden frame of the house looks, the better.
Creating small parts
A house for a small doll can be made exclusively with windows and a door, or it can be supplemented with a balcony.
Small balcony.
In order for the balcony to look quite realistic, it should also be made of wood. The bottom of the balcony and its slats must be fastened together with ordinary wood glue. The bottom of the balcony can be made of a square of plywood or PVC, but the slats can be ordinary toothpicks.
You can paint the balcony with the same acrylic paints. Or you can go ahead and open it wooden parts ordinary brown stain. It will take longer to dry, but the balcony will look like a real one.
building door.
After the roof is ready, you can begin to create the door of the house. To do this, you need to cut out a rectangle from cardboard, the size of which will correspond to the previously prepared door opening. After the doors are cut, they need to be painted with acrylic paints. The color can be any - it all depends on the imagination of the needlewoman. Near the door you can lay out improvised pebbles or steps made of paper. To do this, toilet paper is rolled into balls. different sizes and painted with prepared paint. For greater strength, the stones can be opened with PVA glue before painting.
Shutters and frames.
In order to make shutters, you need to take cardboard or PVC and cut out parts from it the right size. Each window should have two shutters. Then they are opened for realism with stain or paint. They can also be pasted over with ordinary toothpicks for greater realism.
Frames for dollhouse can also be made from a cardboard base. The slats on the windows should be made from ordinary matches - this way the product will look prettier. The window frame should be attached with glue from the inside of the building, but the shutters are glued to the facade of the house.
A house for your favorite doll can be added decorated with flowers and leaves- it all depends on the customer’s preferences. Near the house you can place a homemade bench made of cardboard or PVC material. Believe me, although you will have to tinker with the house, in the end you will be able to please your baby and his doll with a realistic home!
Attention, TODAY only!
As a child, I, like many other girls, loved to play with dolls. I had two of them. A beautiful black-haired girl in the national costume of the peoples of the North and a red-haired simpleton in a short corduroy sundress. But it was no fun playing with them. Firstly, it was strictly forbidden to take dolls into the yard. And secondly, their size was a little large for me. The object of my dreams was a small, neat rubber doll with movable arms and legs. However, they didn’t buy me a cheeky little one. Perhaps my mother had no idea about my dream, or maybe she simply thought that one doll was enough. I had it. A plastic holopop with arms and legs glued to the body. In the summer, my friends and I took our babies out into the yard, walked with them, swaddled them in handkerchiefs and discussed how to make our pets more comfortable. Those who did not have doll strollers were forced to make them themselves. I remember my baby doll’s cardboard stroller well. It was assembled from a lump sugar box. The lid was placed vertically on the base of the box and served as an improvised cap. And when I was allowed to glue a piece of tulle to it, I was in seventh heaven and proud that the little one would no longer be bothered by insects!
How much I dreamed of and how little I needed to feel truly happy!!!
It seems to me that that little girl who dreamed of a rubber baby doll and a stroller for him has not yet grown up. She only pretends to be an adult, while she slowly makes her childhood dreams come true. Otherwise, how can you explain my desire to create a dollhouse?
To be honest, I have been planning to make my own doll house for quite some time. For several years, the dream of him stood in line for realization and waited for me to finally mature. Sometimes I looked at photos of dollhouses on the Internet, and even saved some for myself for inspiration. But I was afraid to take up work. They were too good! I definitely can't do this. Time passed, the stars lined up in favorable lines, knowledge and skills multiplied, and finally the frame of the future house was purchased. I've made up my mind! I started creating without taking into account the complexity of the task and its impracticality (tell me, why do I need a house?)
I completely immersed myself in the amazing process of creativity without asking any questions. And it turned out to be a house!!! Surprisingly cozy, elegant, ideal for a tiny doll (for now, in the absence of one, a young unicorn has settled in it). The size of the house is small: 30 cm in height (to the very ridge of the roof), 20 cm in width and 10 cm in depth.
This is such a handsome guy!!!
If you are interested, I will be happy to share all the stages of turning a blank into a dream home!
Ready? Then sit back, let's get started!
Initially, I bought a so-called shadow box (something like a deep box or frame with partitions) from an online store.
First of all, it was decided to paint the ceilings of the future house with white acrylic paint. No further finishing was planned, so two layers of paint seemed sufficient to me.
To completely finish the colorful work, I primed with white acrylic paint external walls house.
For finishing interior walls rooms, I decided to use textiles. First I decided on color scheme. The walls of each room will be a different color.
The finishing work was not difficult and did not require high costs. All I needed was cardboard, glue and fabric. It is necessary to measure the dimensions of the walls as accurately as possible, cut out blanks of the required size from cardboard, cover them with fabric and glue them to the walls.
As flooring It was decided to lay laminate flooring in every room of the house. What can imitate it? Wooden ice cream sticks, of course!
First of all, I measured the floor in the room, cut out a template from squared paper, and placed construction tape on it, sticky side up. As you know, laminate installation options can be different. The size of each plank will depend on which method you choose.
Before sawing the popsicle sticks, I decided on what size boards would suit me. This is easy to check using a template.
Saw several sticks into planks of different sizes and try to lay them on the template. When the first row of boards is completely laid out, you can count how many sticks you will need. IN in this case we see that to cover one row I needed 5 larger and 4 smaller planks. A total of 4 rows of planks will fit on the template. In total, I will need 20 larger and 16 smaller planks.
As a little know-how, I can advise you convenient way sawed ice cream sticks. Stack several sticks and wrap them tightly masking tape. It's better to do this on both sides. Apply to sticks or tape (as needed, of great importance this does not play) markings and start sawing the entire stack at once. This way you will need less time and the boards will turn out more neat. If necessary, saw cut flaws can be sanded.
After required quantity The boards have been sawn, lay them completely on the template. The adhesive side of the tape will help fix the boards in place and they will not “scatter”.
Ice cream sticks, unfortunately, do not always have an even shape. In the photo, the laminate boards have been “drifted” to the side. This happened due to the lack of gap between them. Laying on a template allows us to see and eliminate possible flaws and shortcomings in advance.
A little fitting.
Everything is fine, you can move on to painting. I wanted the laminate to have a somewhat worn look, so I had to tinker with it a lot. I painted each plank separately. I decided that a white floor would look more organic. To paint, I used white acrylic paint, thoroughly dried the boards, and then sanded each plank from the ends to give it a worn look. The work is monotonous and requires quite a lot of time, but if you don’t rush anywhere and do everything with your soul, time is not a hindrance.
When the planks were finished, all I had to do was glue them to the floor. Each plank was glued separately, and the gaps were also carefully monitored (where possible).
If you look closely, you will notice that the method of laying laminate flooring in each room is different. For the loft, I used thin, flat wooden sticks (these are usually used for stirring sugar).
The interior of the house is finished, let's move on to the facade.
I decided to start from the roof. I wanted to decorate it with tiles. Popsicle sticks come in handy again! Surprisingly comfortable and practical material.
First of all, we need a long, even bar or ruler. It will act as a guide. And also two office clips for attaching it to the roof.
After the strip is secured, you can lay out the first row of tiles and calculate how many tiles are required. Before making further calculations, I recommend gluing the first row of tiles to the base of the roof. I used Titan glue. It is enough to apply a small amount of glue to the upper (cut) part of the tile and press it to the base. It takes a little time for the glue to set. I advise you to take your time and wait 7-10 minutes before moving on to laying the second row.
We move the level a little higher, re-attach it to the roof using office clips and lay the second row of tiles. If appearance you are satisfied with the installation, measure the width of the step and make marks with a pencil along the entire roof. They will serve as a kind of markers for further styling.
It seemed to me that the fish scale pattern would look more original. In order to follow the chosen pattern, I needed narrower sticks. They are used in every second row, starting and ending it.
By counting the number of tiles in two rows, you can determine how much material will be needed to cover the entire roof. All that remains is to cut the sticks to the required sizes.
and start decorating.
The roof slope is formed using narrow long wooden sticks glued end to end.
The laying of the tiles is completed, you can proceed to finishing the exterior walls of the house. As planned, I wanted to create a coating that imitates brickwork. Once again those wonderful popsicle sticks came in handy!!! A truly irreplaceable and easy-to-use building material.
First of all, it is necessary to make calculations of the size of the bricks and their quantity. I sawed several sticks of any size and placed them on the side wall of the house. The chosen installation method showed that in addition to whole bricks, I would also need their halves. Thus, it became possible to calculate the total number of bricks for finishing one side wall. Multiply the resulting result by two.
Let's start laying bricks on the back wall of the house. To finish it you will also need whole bricks and their halves. We make all the necessary calculations and start cutting. Of course, it is better to entrust this important part to the stronger half of humanity. As a matter of fact, that's what I did. Sawing building materials is not a woman's job. Our job is to decorate!
I would like to warn you against the mistake I made in getting caught up in the excitement of laying tiles. I did not foresee the need to pre-paint the material. Unfortunately, the realization of the mistake came to me too late. The issue of painting the tiles had to be resolved separately, but I drew conclusions. A noble gray was chosen for the walls of the house. To brickwork looked more voluminous, the bricks were painted in 6 shades of gray, starting with the lightest and ending with rich gray. White dry brush strokes gave them a slightly worn effect.
After all the materials were thoroughly dried, brickwork appeared on the walls of the house.
This is how beautiful the end result was! It seems that I managed to create the desired effect!
The time has come to correct the mistake made. According to the plan, the tiles should be pink (we are creating a house for a girl). To visually “revive” the coating, pink color also available in several shades. Of course, painting finished tiles turned out to be more difficult. I had to be extremely careful, trying as much as possible not to touch adjacent tiles. But it seems I succeeded!
A few touches of white paint and the elegant tiles are ready!
Hooray!!! Exterior finishing The façade of the house is completely finished. You can move on to its interior decoration.
But in such a way that it would be easy and quick and using available means. Of course, it didn’t turn out to be top class, but still cute)
Do-it-yourself tiles for a dollhouse.
1. I glued the base and the rail.
2.Cut out a blank to fit the width of the roof
3. I cut tiles from cardboard according to the template. I glued it row by row, sparing no PVA glue.
4. It didn’t turn out very nicely, I didn’t like it terribly, and then napkins glued with PVA glue were used. The main thing here is that the glue is not very liquid; the cardboard does not like water and “swells” from an excess of liquid. I waited for the first layer of glue to dry (I sped it up with a hairdryer) and went over the glue again.
5. I filled the empty space on the side with glue for reliability and sealed the holes with napkins.
6. When the roof had dried well, I started painting. I used gray paint.
7. The roof began to look like a roof, but I still didn’t really like it, then I took silver glitter (bought at a hardware store, a bag of 25 rubles), diluted them with regular varnish to a liquid porridge and slowly began to apply it to the roof.
It's a pity the photo doesn't convey the real shine. Gold and silver sparkles are sold in construction stores and markets; you can buy colored sparkles in craft stores.
Master class on making a house-terem for the little mouse Manyuni
PVC was chosen as the base material. Reasons: lighter than plywood, stronger than cardboard, easy to cut and glue.
I want to make a house with a blank facade and glazed windows, in this case interior decoration I'm not interested in doing it. Therefore, there are holes in the back walls so that when transporting the house you can put stuff and dolls there, and the insides are not decorated in any way.
The design consists of two separate parts, also for ease of transportation.
In the future, it is planned to select such materials so that the decor does not break or scratch during transportation and so that I do not have to transport the house like a “crystal vase.” I always think about convenience and I’m not ready to make some sacrifices on the altar of beauty.
Front view.
Back view.
Before painting, tests were carried out on a piece of plastic; It turned out that even sanded PVC acrylic comes off if you scratch it. Therefore, I decided to cover the house with textured paper (toilet paper, as you understand, but you can also buy corrugated paper, the only difference is in the show-off). I tore it into small pieces and pasted it in random order so that the texture lay in different directions.
Joiner's glue "Moment": ever since the guy introduced me to this glue, I look down on PVA a little. Carpenter's is about the same thing, but it dries much faster.
A closer look at the fact:
Pasting the walls of the house took me three evenings. Painstaking and dreary work. All ends are also sealed, with a bend inward.
The roof was covered with simple office paper and strips, which saved me a lot of time. There will be tiles on top, so this paper will not be visible.
Now let's paint. Paints - Maimeri Acrilico in tubes, they have excellent coverage, good color mixing, a slightly pasty consistency, and most importantly - the price " src="http://static.diary.ru/picture/1135.gif" /> I liked them work and I bought basic set colors.
The walls of the house are painted with white acrylic, the roof is black. I already wrote that I’ve been digging hard on diorama websites, and they provide a black base for all sorts of textures, so I decided not to reinvent the wheel and do as told.
The white color, even in combination with the texture, turned out to be too flat, so I decided to add shades. I did it completely at random)))
The first shade is pinkish-brick, the acrylic is diluted to the consistency of thick sour cream, I applied a couple of strokes to the surface with a brush and quickly rubbed it with a cotton pad (without wasting a second, because acrylic dries instantly!) Diorama makers rub it with oil, it dries longer, but buy I also don’t see the point in using oil. As a result, we have painted protruding areas of the texture.
The second shade was matched to the first, diluted the greenish-brown color and washed out the surface. I wiped off the excess with a cotton pad. The areas around the frames, under the roof and near the ground were more dirty. According to the Quenta, my house is located in the forest, near a swamp, so it is assumed that it has turned green from moisture, overgrown with moss and all that.
Both colors are clearly visible here.
Now let's glue wooden frames. I got the veneer through connections, but in general they buy it in stores for modellers. I bought the 5x5 linden rail there.
The glue is the same carpentry “Moment”, it sticks perfectly.
The guy suggested cutting the slats with a laser, which would have saved me a lot of effort, but in this case, the clumsier the better
Here we will have a balcony. We glue the frame for now and wooden floor.
PART 2
The balcony is glued. It consists of square strips (linden) and toothpicks (bamboo). Holes were drilled in the planks for toothpick pins, and the whole thing was assembled with wood glue.
The balcony floor is covered with veneer.
All wooden parts are covered with cherry stain. Alcohol stain, the darkest one I had (I specifically asked for one that wasn’t the smelliest, they come in different bases). I really enjoyed working with it: it perfectly impregnates the material and flows into the cracks.
Let's start with the tiles. Pieces of cardboard 1x1.5 cm, rounded on one side. I spent a lot of time cutting this stuff out by hand.
I thought about how long it would take to paint all this with acrylic, especially the ends of each tile. I was horrified. I tried to paint cardboard with stain - suddenly I got an excellent imitation pine bark. And random spots of glue resemble traces of resin
I glue the tiles in rows and impregnate each next one with stain.
Everything is glued. I also spent a lot of time - but not as much as I could have))
The pipe is made of Mungyo Sculpt Dry terracotta, the grooves are applied wet. Somewhere it’s crooked, somewhere it’s a little cracked - it’s all to our advantage. The tiles are also glued unevenly. To reveal all these nuances more clearly, the roof and chimney will still need to be additionally painted.
The doors are also made of veneer, glued to a cardboard base (painted black, like the roof). I additionally applied the relief with a needle.
Blanks for stones are made from wads of toilet paper. Although I have real stones, it will be lighter in weight.
PART 3
I'm making shutters. I cut pieces of cardboard, paint the surface under the shutter black, and paint the surface against the wall white.
I cut veneer boards and apply the relief with a needle.
The shutters are painted with stain and then glued.
I'm building frames. Pieces of transparent acrylic are glued with a strip of paper along the end so that everything else sticks to them more reliably. Then I cut the veneer again and glue it.
The slats on the small windows are made of matches; for the balcony window I had to take a thin round stick (torn out of a bamboo napkin) and cut off half to get a flat side.
It took me a long time to work on shutters and windows; I only spent a day making the frames and slats.
The windows are glued to the house from the inside.
I paint the tiles. The principle is this: I mixed a terracotta color and painted each tile separately in a chaotic order - about a quarter of the total quantity. I added more white to make a lighter tone - again I painted a quarter of all the tiles. Mixed more dark color- I paint the rest.
Due to the fact that some tiles are painted more densely, others thinner, and four colors, the result is such an artistic mess.
I finished painting some of the tiles with approximately the same mixture, but less brown and more white and black - the result was a grayer shade.
I also painted the pipe with thinly diluted black - it immediately took on a shabby look.
The chimney hole is painted black.
I painted the ground thicker, with several shades of green. I also painted the stones. Dark tone is the base, lighter ones on top: gray, brown, green, light gray lichen spots. Toilet pellets are now unrecognizable))
So we have beautiful new shingles. The house is located in a damp area, so I will do lichen not only on the stones, but also on the roof.
I take an ordinary kitchen sponge, dilute a light gray one with green tint paint and randomly poke the tiles with a washcloth. It turns out well.
Please note that there is no pipe. I sat it on two toothpick pins, with two holes in the roof. Roman advised leaving it removable - for ease of transportation))
The shingles are still too new and the lichen stains could do with toning down. I mix the gray-brown-green color and poke it with a washcloth, even thicker than before.
The roof is the bomb! Compare with.
I painted the pipe with the same colors as the tiles.
Now the shutters and frames look too new compared to the roof. I'll spoil them too. Wood turns gray from the sun and water, so I spread gray paint and stain everything wooden elements I don’t touch the protruding parts, I don’t touch the recesses.
The same goes for the balcony and the door.
Here you can see copper slats, hinges and handle. Everything was done using standard wirework techniques, the slats are heavily flattened wire.
The copper needs to be aged, I will do this later, so the elements are hanging on honestly.
PART 4
I think moss deserves its own post.
Diorama makers often find materials for their compositions in the most unexpected places. This is what happened to me too. This idea was prompted by one video tutorial in which trees were made with a crown of wood shavings(this happens if you scrape the floors, it’s very fine).
Here's the kitchen scourer I used to apply texture to the roof. The green abrasive part consists of fibers that perfectly imitated moss (as it turned out). I hoped that something would work out for me, but I didn’t expect such a good result.
It’s still better to take a green washcloth, because acrylic does not paint over absolutely everything.
I tore off this part and cut it into small pieces with scissors.
Mixing paint in a jar desired color- this is still the same Maimeri acrylic. I added about a teaspoon of Moment wood glue there. Pour out all the pieces and mix well.
The working time with such a batch until it begins to set is up to half an hour exactly. There is no retarder in acrylic, its role is played by glue. I had two such batches. And I mix, and separate the fibers, and stick - all with these two toothpicks, it’s very convenient for me.
Result:
Roof. It’s even better live, I’m still a photographer.
The moss holds up very well thanks to a large number high-quality glue with plasticizer. You can grab with your hands, etc.
PART 5
The flower boxes are glued together from PVC, just like the frame of the house, and covered with toilet paper. The top is painted with acrylic: a solid layer of brown paint, and then black paint with a dry brush. The result is such a multi-colored texture, and thanks to the relief of the toilet paper, it actually looks like wood))
Copper holders are inserted into holes in the wall. They hold tightly and will not fall out during exposure, but I will remove them for transportation.
I repainted the pipe to match the color of stone, not clay.
Pieces of Icelandic moss, pine needles, etc. are glued to the roof.
Lantern: glass - thin acrylic film (it was a badge from an exhibition), vertical bars - ordinary office paper, bottom and lid - PVC. Everything is assembled with superglue, because otherwise the acrylic will come off. Inside is a piece of toothpick instead of a candle. Everything is painted with a variety of acrylics: the base is dark brown, accents are gold and black.
The flashlight is also held in the wall by a hole. At first I wanted to hang it on the right side of the house above the window, but since that facade will practically not be visible at the exhibition, I changed my mind.
I’m still in no hurry to patina the copper elements: what if I want to do something else?
I'm starting to get to the swamp. Roman cut a piece of acrylic 3 mm thick (what it was) for me using a laser. You could cut it by hand, but this way there is less risk of ruining a good piece of acrylic.
Cardboard is placed under the acrylic. I only had green, so I had to paint it black.
The edges of the swamp are covered with toilet paper to keep the whole structure together. Next is painting the edges: a dark brown-green tone as the base, lighter ones are applied with a washcloth. The surface of the swamp was also tamped with a washcloth to imitate duckweed.
My first experience of sculpting flowers from Claycraft Deco)) I bought it at. The scale for such work is a little abnormal, the diameter of the water lilies is 1 cm, which is approximately 1/6 format. Blue flowers are 4 mm in diameter. Even mine fine motor skills It’s not always enough for the desired result, but I try. That yellow one - the middle blanks under the following flowers, haven’t figured out which ones yet.
Here on modeling in Russian there are a lot of courses on Deco, because... Both the material and the technology are patented, but we are not looking for hard ways))
PART 6
I stuck water lily leaves. They turned out right the second time: I wanted to make it so that you could simply lay groups of leaves on the swamp, and not glue them tightly, this is necessary for ease of transportation. Which means down side should be flat. The first version of the leaves was quite thick, but it was warped (I didn’t throw away the leaves - maybe they will come in handy, they lie on the sides of the swamp). I googled the properties of Deco: they still write that it warps when it dries (((I had to come up with a workaround: what if the leaves were made thinner and glued to a piece of cardboard? No sooner said than done.
This is the limit of paint mixing without the clay falling apart when sculpted.
Here you can see different stages of the process: on the left is a cardboard template for leaves, in the center is a glued island from the inside out, on the upper right is another one with front side, bottom right - a finished island of leaves, already glued to cardboard. As you can see, it is quite flat.
I painted the leaves a dull color, because the water lilies are very monochromatic (and why did I different colors sculpted, I don’t know myself?), glued water lilies. I added moss along the edges of the swamp and tinted it with different colors.
And these are strawberries in boxes. It took me a lot of time, because the flowers are sculpted in stages. I successfully adapted the eye of a needle to form the centers of the petals, and in general I learned a lot of new things))
The process looks like this:
1. I make flowers. I mix green paint into clay and sculpt leaves.
The parts are drying.
2. I cut the wires, with one I bend a loop at the end - this is for buds and berries, with the other - a circle bent perpendicularly, for flowers, and I leave some of the wires like this - this is for leaves.
3. I glue the flowers and leaves onto the wires, and stick the buds raw onto the wires with a loop. I mix red paint. I shape the berries, poke them with the eye of a needle to add texture, and place them on wires.
The glue is drying. I'm waiting for it to dry completely. Freshly applied parts also dry.
4. I tear off the buds and berries from the wires, dip the wires in glue, and stick them back in.
The glue is drying.
5. I knead the green clay again. On flowers, berries and buds I form blanks for sepals.
6. While the sepals are drying, I cut out the cloves on the already dried leaves with a template knife. I collect leaf blanks in threes and twist the wires.
7. Carefully tear off the sepals, cut out the cloves, and glue them back.
8. I paint the centers of the leaves green, trying to create a gradient towards the edges. I paint all the stems and legs with acrylic; it fits perfectly on the wire and does not crack when bent. I paint the noses of the berries light green and the centers of the flowers yellow.
In short, I tinkered with all this for more than one day)))
It's time to plant our strawberries! I glued the leaves to the bottom of the boxes. Instead of soil, I stuffed the same moss with glue into the boxes and stuck flowers and berries into them. I arranged everything beautifully and am waiting for the glue to dry.
Ready!
PART 7
I stuck on various leaves and flowers, painted the wire stems with acrylic, and glued the leaves on.
The stems for the reeds are the same wire, but with the insulation left (green), extracted from a twisted pair. The top is painted with acrylic, then a peduncle of reeds is attached.
Reed leaves were made like this: a sausage is rolled on a flat surface, then flattened on the handle of a brush - this is how we get a semicircular shape, it bends in the right way and is laid out to dry. The bottom of the sheet becomes more prominent, the top - flatter.
You can see blanks of leaves for ivy on the left, on tubes of paint)) After drying, they will not be flat, but semicircular. The blank will produce two leaves.
The ivy stem was made from very thin wire, and the leaves, after the blanks had dried, were cut with a breadboard tool. There are three piles of different colors: the lightest leaves will be at the ends of the branches, the darker ones will be at the base.
Flowers are planted under the house different varieties and types)) For the leaves, I also mixed clay of different colors, some were also painted.
Made it on the windows and balcony door curtains, since the interior was not done - in general, so that it would not be very noticeable))
Ivy on the house.
The technology is still the same: we paint the branches with acrylic, let it dry, and glue each leaf onto PVA. It is attached to the wall with small wire staples, under which holes are pierced in the wall with a needle. I brushed a little over the leaves to give it some heterogeneity.
A little more general plan.
I decided to make reeds too separate elements, for ease of transportation. The bases are cut out of PVC, covered with toilet paper, painted, then holes are filled with an awl, wire stems are glued into them. I also glued individual wire pins to the individual leaves.
Inserts with minimal gaps.
The bottom of the “islands” with reeds is decorated with loofah grass, just like the shores of the lake.
That's almost all)) We need to finish literally some little things, add household items to the locations to give the house a residential feel.
PART 8
Stools. Made of veneer and square slats (the same ones from which the balcony railing in 2 parts is made), stained on top, then sanded. I tried to paint them with acrylic, but it didn't work out.
Two gray byaki are blanks for pumpkins: toilet paper, thread, glue. Made to save material, although they could have been sculpted entirely from Deco.
The pumpkins are ready. I tinted the depressions a little with brown paint for a more lively look.
The bench was made of the same materials as the balcony: there were still a lot of these square slats left, it was a pity)) Thin crossbars - from a loose bamboo rug.
Mushrooms! I did it several evenings: I stuck a bunch of it, beat around the bush - it didn’t seem like enough, I stuck it again, and so on several times)))
The container for mushrooms was also made from a bamboo mat: there were two types of slats. Paper hoops, assembled with glue. The bottom is triple, slats-cardboard-slats, sitting in a barrel with glue.
Deco bowl.
They also have mushrooms on the balcony under the roof. I laid out a linen rug, made another jug from Deco, and bought a mug at the Montpassier bead store.
Yes, I know that the exhibition is in the spring, and we have both mushrooms and pumpkins here - but I strongly associate mice with homeliness and thriftiness, so the theme of the harvest was revealed.
The composition will also include a wheelbarrow and a bag of sugar from that same photo shoot - why waste it))
Well, that's it, the work is finished. See photos of Manyuni in the surroundings 
How to make tiles for a dollhouse from leather
Difficulty level: easy
Tools and materials used
- Leather (you can use old bags and even shoes)
- Scissors
- Razor
- Thick threads
- thick needle
- Iron with steamer
- Acrylic paints
- Brush
- Cardboard (for making a template)
Tools and materials used Prepare a tile template from cardboard. It should look something like this.
Draw the skin according to the template and cut it out.
Score the edges of the shingles with a razor. Like this. Needs trimming upper layer, but do not cut through the skin.
Pull the threads together to give the tiles a voluminous semicircular shape. Distribute to ensure even assembly.
Now this form needs to be fixed. For this we will use an iron with a steamer.
Important! Do not touch the sole of the iron to your skin. The iron must be held in a canopy, above the tiles. And fix the skin only with hot steam.
Now the threads can be pulled out. All that remains is to paint and glue the tiles.
Let's divorce acrylic paint the desired color. It must be remembered that acrylic darkens as it dries. Paint the shingles.