Due to constant cleaning and treatment, the enamel in the bathroom gradually deteriorates and loses its attractive appearance. appearance, becomes hard and rough. After 10-15 years of use of plumbing fixtures, unwashable stains appear on the surface. yellow spots and rusty stains, chips. Then restoration of the bathtub enamel is required.
Why do you need to restore bathtub enamel?
Restoration of the enamel coating is needed not only to restore the smoothness and former presentable appearance of the surface. Enamel protects plumbing fixtures from the negative effects of boiling water, sudden temperature changes, cleaning chemicals and other aggressive factors. It is important to restore the coating in time, otherwise rust will destroy the product!
You can carry out the procedure for restoring and restoring the bathtub with your own hands. This method cheaper and easier than buying and installing new bath or contact specialists.
The updated coating will not last as long as the new factory one. However, it will return the previous attractive appearance, albeit for a short period of time, but without any special physical and financial costs.
In order for the new coating to last longer, you should properly care for the surface of the bathtub and do not use too strong aggressive cleaning agents. Do not scratch the coating! Let's find out how to restore bathtub enamel at home.
How to prepare a bath
First you need to clean the surface using cleaning powder and fine-grit sandpaper. It is important to remove rust, chips and scratches so that the coating becomes smooth. Severe rust and stains are removed with oxalic acid.
To do this, mix the acid with water to the consistency of a thick paste or slurry. Then dip a cotton pad in the mixture and apply to problem areas. Leave on for half an hour and then rinse off.
After cleaning, the surface is degreased using gasoline or acetone. To do this, wipe the coating with a cotton pad or a small cloth soaked in one of the products. Then the bath is filled hot water, leave for 15 minutes and drain the water. After this, the surface is thoroughly dried.
It is important to carry out work only on a dry surface! Moisture must be removed from the walls, bottom and enamel pores. To properly dry the bathtub, first wipe the surface with a soft, dry, lint-free cloth.
Then use a draft, hair dryer or fan. Only then restore the coating using one of the methods described below. When purchasing products, be sure to read the instructions and follow the recommendations!
Restoring a bathtub using enamel
Priming and then coating the bathtub with purchased enamel is the most common option, which restores the coating as effectively as possible. When working, be sure to use gloves and a respiratory mask, as the primer emits a pungent odor.
However, it is possible to paint with enamel without prior priming, but in in this case The new coating may turn out uneven and will not last as long.
The primer is applied to the inner surface of the bathtub and left to dry. Then enamel is applied to the dried primer layer in three layers using a small roller or cloth swab. The roller will fill every crack, scratch and chip.
For convenience and speed, the last layer can be applied with a spray gun, spray gun or spray gun. Before applying each new layer, be sure to wait until the previous one has dried!
In rooms with high humidity, a heater or fan heater is used when drying the enamel coating to prevent the enamel from cracking. Two hours after coating, the bath is wiped with solvent to obtain a smooth, even surface with a glossy shine.
And to consolidate the result, the coating is polished after two or three days using some kind of polishing agent.
Bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic
Liquid acrylic is also a popular means for restoring enamel cast iron bath or plumbing fixtures made of other materials. It is fast and easy to use. Acrylic is sold as a set of a solid base and a liquid hardener.
Mix the components in equal parts and be sure to preheat the surface. To do this, pour hot water into the bath and drain after ten minutes, then dry thoroughly.
Before starting work, place a container under the bathtub drain into which excess paint will drain. Pour liquid acrylic gradually, smoothly and carefully, starting from the far corner of the side and moving in a circle.
Try to keep the flow even. Pour paint until it covers the walls halfway. Do not smooth out the sagging or remove the bubbles; they will gradually spread out on their own.
Then start pouring paint from the middle of the side and move in the same direction until the walls are completely painted. The acrylic on the bottom can be leveled using a rubber spatula. You can also use a spatula to remove paint dripping from the edges of the bathtub. After this, the coating is left to dry for two to six days, depending on the type and brand of acrylic.
When covering with liquid acrylic, paint is poured evenly, slowly and carefully. Take your time! Do not level the composition on the walls of the bath, as it distributes on its own. Move in one direction only!
What product for bath restoration?
- Epoxy enamel (“Epoksin-51” and “Epoksin-51S”) is the most common type of product, which is distinguished by its availability and low price. The coating will last 5-9 years. This paint dries in 1-2 days and effectively fills gaps and scratches, chips and cracks;
- Restoration set “Fantasy” - high-quality products with a wide selection color range. Here are light green, white, green, pink, blue and beige bath paints. Modern and effective enamel lasts about ten years. Dries within a week;
- The restoration set “Svetlana” takes 5-7 days to dry and has a varied palette of colors. Distinguished by quality and high efficiency. The paint lasts up to 9-10 years;
- Liquid acrylic or stacrylic is a convenient and easy-to-use product that does not form smudges or sagging. The paint does not have a strong toxic odor, creates a warm, pleasant creamy shade and lasts up to 15 years! Dries on average three days;
- Reaflex-50 is a product for painting bathtubs from the Finnish company Tikkurila. High-end professional enamel lasts for more than ten years, but is difficult to apply. In addition, it dries for about a week.
How to remove chips and porosity in a bathtub
A mixture of BF-2 glue and dry whitewash is suitable for eliminating small chips. To do this, apply the composition in several layers to the damaged areas with a brush. Be sure to wait until the previous one has dried before applying each new layer. Apply layers until the area is even with the base enamel coating.
A mixture of Super Cement glue and nitro enamel will help eliminate deep scratches and severe chips. To do this, mix the products in equal proportions and apply the composition to scratches and chips in several layers. It is advisable to apply each layer with an interval of one day.
Instead of glue and nitro enamel, epoxy resin and titanium white or fragments of porcelain tableware ground into powder are also used to eliminate deep chips and scratches. Take two parts resin to one part white or porcelain chips and mix the ingredients.
The resulting composition is applied to the chip and smoothed with a razor blade. The mixture is left to dry for five days, during which you cannot use the bath!
Nitro paint restores porous and rough enamel. To do this, a small amount of paint is poured onto the bottom of the bath and rubbed into the surface. Make sure the paint fills every scratch and every pore.
Repeat the procedure several times, allowing the surface to dry. The last layer You can apply spray paint, as it gives the most even and smooth finish. Remove excess paint that remains after rubbing in with a swab dipped in solvent.
How to care for new enamel
- Do not wash the enamel surface with abrasives, powders and pastes;
- Do not allow acids, solvents, chlorine, or various acid- and chlorine-containing products to come into contact with the enamel;
- Do not wash in a bath using bleach;
- Do not leave water on the bottom of the bathtub after use as this will cause rust;
- Do not place metal basins, pots, buckets and other containers or metal objects in the bathtub;
- Do not scratch the enamel with sharp or piercing objects. Do not use wire wool!;
- Wash the bathtub after each bath, otherwise plaque will form on the enamel;
- You need to wash the bathtub with soap, soapy water or dishwashing detergent with a soft brush or sponge and cloth;
- After washing, rinse the bath thoroughly and wipe dry with a soft, lint-free cloth;
- Once a week, disinfect the bathtub by pouring boiling water over the surface. If necessary, you can wipe the surface with soda or vinegar, thoroughly rinsing off the products after treatment.
If you provide proper care for the enameled surface, it will retain its color and smooth glossy finish for a long time. If you follow the rules and recommendations, the new enamel will easily last another five years. And when using reliable restoration products and high quality bathtub restoration work - up to 15 years!
The main defects in the bathtub coating include cracks, scratches and chips. Damage occurs after careless installation of furniture, plumbing fixtures and heavy objects falling into the bathing bowl. Calling a professional to fix problems won’t be cheap, so it would be nice to learn how to repair a cast iron bathtub yourself, don’t you agree?
We will help you resolve this issue. The article provides detailed instructions for removing chips, small and deep scratches, and also described effective methods restoration of cracks. By studying the material, you can restore the attractiveness of a cast iron bowl and extend the life of the bathtub.
Using multi-component cleaning products, cleaning the contaminated surface with a stiff brush, careless handling metal objects during repairs - all this leads to the formation of shallow scratches.
Such scratches must be eliminated immediately, since the penetration of moisture and caustic chemicals into the resulting gap leads to the formation of rust, the proliferation of moisture-loving microorganisms and an increase in the size of the scratch. Which will lead to further destruction of the bathtub surface.
Shallow scratches include damage that does not expose metal. These minor damages can be repaired even without priming the surface.
Methods for restoring cracks
Cast iron bathing bowls have become popular due to their high wear resistance and durability. But even such durable products have defects in the form of enamel chips, corrosion or cracks.
The occurrence of a crack as a result of plumbing work or natural changes in water and air temperature becomes one of the reasons for replacing the bathtub. In some cases, it is possible to repair the defect.
Methods for eliminating a crack in a cast iron bathtub base: using cold welding, by applying epoxy resin, soldering with lead-tin solder.
Option #1 - cold welding
At the first stage, the bath is degreased and cleaned with Pemolux or soda. If there is rust around the edges and inside the crack, it is necessary to use a harsh abrasive such as Sanox or Chistin Sanitary.
The anti-corrosion agent is applied to the surface of the crack in a thick layer, wetted and left on the damage for 20 minutes. After washing off the cleaning agent, locking micro-holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled along the visible edges of the crack on one or both sides, depending on the location.
After degreasing, the surface is sanded with a grinder, electric drill with a grinding wheel or abrasive. Not only the crack is cleaned, but also the enamel around it, 1.5-2 cm wide.
A grinding wheel removes the coating right down to the metal. At the site of the crack, a hollow is ground out along the entire length of the fault.
After sanding, the tank coating is cleared of saw cuts and dirt. When the bathroom is dry, the crack area must be degreased with solvent, alcohol or cologne.
Hot water is poured into the bowl for half an hour, after it is drained, the surface is dried with a hairdryer. Now the treated coating defect can be covered by cold welding.
You can use the bath no earlier than after 24 hours. To even out the tone of the coating, the crack area can be painted with two-component acrylic or epoxy enamel.
Option #2 – epoxy resin
The process of preparing a surface for applying epoxy resin is practically no different from the technology for preparing a bath for applying cold welding.
Scheme of work:
- cleansing and degreasing;
- grinding and turning of grooves;
- additional degreasing.
After completing the preparatory work, it is necessary to prepare epoxy resin or epoxy-based putty. A layer of epoxy resin is applied to the crack site, fiberglass cloth is applied on top, and adhesive mounting material is applied again.
After the structure has dried, it is necessary to repeat the procedure: epoxy - fiberglass - epoxy. The result should be a patch above the enamel level; if not, then the procedure is repeated a third time.
Epoxy resin – the best remedy to eliminate cracks in the bathtub. The liquid texture of the material allows it to penetrate into every microcrack, providing increased adhesion and protection of the metal.
Option #3 – soldering the crack
If you have soldering skills, you can solder a small crack in a cast iron bathtub. This requires thorough cleaning and freeing of the metal from the enamel.
Soldering is done with a 100-200-watt soldering iron using lead-tin solder and a special flux for steel and aluminum.
This method of solving a problem takes time and skill. The seam will not last long, but it will be suitable for temporarily fixing the problem.
To extend the attractiveness and service life of a renovated bathtub, it is necessary to properly. To clean the surface, do not use hard brushes, which can damage the smooth enamel.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
For reliable adhesion of materials and durability of the coating, it is necessary to follow a clear sequence of preparatory and restoration work:
High-quality repair of a cast-iron bathtub means careful restoration of the most important plumbing fixture in the apartment.
Restoration of a damaged surface is possible as a result of the “jewelry” work of a master. The result of painstaking work and many hours of waiting will be a bath without visible chips, scratches and cracks, which will last for another ten years.
Share with readers your experience of restoring damaged enamel of a cast-iron bathtub and carrying out restoration work. Please leave comments, ask questions about the topic of the article and participate in discussions - the feedback form is located below.
During the operation of a cast iron bathtub, due to certain circumstances, damage to the enamel may occur due to mechanical stress and, as a result, the formation of rust spots. The appearance of the bathtub becomes unaesthetic and the owner faces several ways to solve this problem, one of which is restoration with his own hands.
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Although this procedure is labor-intensive, significant financial savings are achieved, the finish of walls and floors is not disturbed during dismantling, and the usual reliable but updated bath remains.Is it possible to restore a bathtub?
It should be understood that a bathtub can only be restored if there are no clearly rotten areas that cannot be repaired. This applies to the bottom near the drain and where water constantly remains. The enamel on the face may be in good condition, but rust that has penetrated through the damaged coating may have caused the cast iron to rust. As a result, the thickness of the metal is not able to provide the same performance characteristics. You can assess repairability by stripping the old enamel, and then tapping the surface with a wooden or rubber hammer to identify problem areas.
How to clean old bathtub coating?
It is best to clean old enamel by applying abrasive powder to the surface and rubbing or using a grinding wheel. You should use abrasive attachments on an electric drill in cases deep penetration rust into a layer of metal. In this case, it is advisable to perform circular or translational movements of the working part of the tool along the surface, so as not to accidentally grind off the excess layer. Restorative compounds that are applied directly to the affected areas are also suitable. When the cleaned dirt accumulates, it is removed. The procedure is carried out until the coating is removed, that is, until the cast iron surface is shiny.
Application of acrylic
Full or partial restoration of enamel?
This issue is considered in each case individually, since it is necessary to take into account the condition of the enamel, service life and the amount of damage. If upon delivery or installation new bath small chips were received, it is possible to carry out local processing. But even in this case, problems may arise with selecting the color tone and creating a certain coating thickness. That is, traces of restoration will be, albeit slightly, noticeable. After removing the rust stains, the contrast will be more pronounced because the enamel has acquired a yellowish tint. Therefore, if quick measures are taken to preserve the metal, partial processing and finishing can be done, but to obtain the quality of the coating, complete restoration is done.
Preparing the bathtub surface for painting
After removing the enamel and removing the rust, wash off the remaining coating and crumbs with water. Then the surface is degreased by applying special chemical mixtures that are neutral to cast iron by rubbing with a soft, dry cloth.
Note!
When inspecting the bathtub, the wall thickness is checked and the possibility of further operation is determined.
Before applying a new coating, warm up the bath using poured hot water within 15 minutes. Then the water is drained, and the inner surface to be painted is wiped dry with a soft cloth. The result should be a surface free of lint, dust and other foreign substances.
Application of acrylic coating
One of simple ways creation perfect coverage bathtubs are a method of pouring an acrylic solution - stacryl - onto the surface. It is a two-component mixture of hardener and acrylic. When applied to the surface, the composition polymerizes and forms a thin, uniform layer with a thickness of up to 5 mm. It has different degrees of viscosity and fluidity, which allows you to accurately select the required option for creating layers of a given thickness. Also for beginners, delayed polymerization will be convenient, which gives a little time to correct minor errors.
Method for creating acrylic coating
- Prepare the mixture according to the instructions.
- Take a container and fill it with liquid acrylic.
- The mixture is slowly poured onto the edges of the bath until approximately the middle height of the wall is reached, after which the stream is moved further along the perimeter.
- Having passed the entire perimeter, the procedure is repeated starting from the middle until a continuous coating is formed.
Acrylic coating
Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling coating
The acrylic coating is highly durable and therefore can protect the bathtub from external mechanical influences and significantly increase its service life. The method of applying it is quite simple and even if you have no experience in carrying out such work, difficulties will not arise. The coating is smooth and quite thick, thanks to its ability to fill unevenness and minor surface defects. There are no pungent odors during application and therefore no need to apply protective equipment respiratory organs. However, the drying time can be at least three days. Restoring an old cast iron bathtub in this way will be very expensive.
Types of enamels for painting
This method is classic and has been successfully used to restore the enamel coating of bathtubs on a budget. There are two options for enamels: professional and regular. The first is used by specialists with extensive experience in enameling. This is due to the fact that the composition of the mixture is highly fluid and to apply a layer of a certain thickness it will be necessary to paint in several layers. At each stage, a layer of the same thickness is created without drips or streaks. If you have experience, it is possible to perform partial restoration of the old coating with high accuracy. Regular enamel is thicker and the entire coating is painted at one time, but with minor errors.
Coating
The process of applying enamel to a bathtub
First you need to prepare the required mixture. To do this, it is poured into two containers for mixing two portions in equal quantities, since the restoration of a cast-iron bathtub with enamel is carried out in two layers. The first part is mixed with the hardener in the amount described in the instructions for use. Then pour it into a spray bottle and evenly apply the first layer of enamel to the surface. This procedure can be performed with a brush, but it will take more time to create a layer of the desired thickness. After this, wait until it dries and immediately apply the second layer in the same way. You can use the bathroom no earlier than after 7 days.
Using a bath liner
The method is a radical solution in cases where the condition of the cast-iron bathtub has been brought to an unusable state: there are rusty holes or significant damage to the surface, and the owner has decided that it is better to restore it than to replace it with a new one. The special insert is acrylic frame, which is inserted inside a cast-iron bathtub and glued to a special adhesive.
Note!
The insert is manufactured in a factory according to individual sizes, so it will be extremely expensive.
They are adjusted locally to the level, coated with glue, placed in the bathtub, and coated with sealant on top. After a day, the bath is ready for use.
Conclusion
Restoring the operational condition of the bath requires an analysis of the economic feasibility of such an event. It includes the amount of time spent, experience in carrying out such work and the availability of the necessary tools. Therefore, before restoring cast iron bath its condition is assessed and a choice is made possible ways applying enamel.
Do-it-yourself restoration of a cast-iron bathtub video:
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It’s nice when inexpensive but neat repairs are made at home, and especially when everything is done with your own hands. Anyone who gets down to business first evaluates their capabilities, selects material, time and finances. But, it’s one thing to change the tiles in the bathroom, and another thing to change a bathtub that has turned yellow from time to time.
However, there is no need to rush to change it, since the enamel coating can be restored. You can learn how to make an inexpensive and high-quality restoration of a cast-iron bathtub at home from this article.
Despite the large selection of bathtubs of different shapes, sizes and materials, all are also in demand on the market. After all, such a cast base is practically eternal and can last for several generations.
What does that require? Just periodic restoration of the enamel coating of a cast iron bathtub is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. To carry out restoration work correctly, you need to learn a little more about the types of damage.
Type #1 – yellowness and plaque
Roughly speaking, these are the remains of metal oxides found in water. Over the years, more and more oxides are deposited, they saturate upper layer paints. And the moment comes when the yellowness can no longer be washed off, the top layer becomes yellow.
Yellowness on the surface of the enamel occurs with prolonged contact with water. The most typical causes for this type of damage are a leaking faucet, drops of water from the shower head, improper installation of the drain.
Type #2 – mechanical damage
Scratches or other damage to the factory enamel layer. Enamel coating is thermosetting components baked at high temperatures in several layers, which when dry become very hard, but brittle.
Any sharp blow to the surface with a hard object often leads to cracks and even chipping of part of the coating.
Damage to the gloss occurs when using products containing corundum or glass abrasives. The use of such pastes damages the gloss over time, which leads to moisture retention on the surface and the entry of various contaminants into micropores.
Coverage restoration options
To restore the internal surface of bathtubs, three types of restoration are common:
- applying enamel coating using a brush or spray gun;
- treating the bathtub bowl with a polymer compound – acrylic;
Dye– the service life of the enamel coating largely depends on the experience of the craftsman and the thoroughness of the preparation of the base of the bathtub/bowl. As a rule, even with careful attitude to the restored coating, its service life does not exceed 1-1.5 years.
Liquid acrylic used to restore bathtubs of non-standard shape. The technology allows you to update the bowl yourself, without involving a team of craftsmen. True, you need to buy a high-quality polymer from a trusted manufacturer.
Installing the liner– the option is quite problematic, since they are cast a certain shape and pick up right size It can be very difficult to fit your bathtub. And quite often it is impossible - if you have a bowl of non-standard shape.
The choice of method for restoring it will depend on the shape and size of the bathtub. For example, in a situation with products of non-standard shapes, it is better to opt for an acrylic coating
We will not give advice on what type of restoration is better - you will figure it out on your own, assessing the condition of your bath and your own strength.
Step-by-step instructions for enamel restoration
Enamel, intended for restoring the surface of a cast iron bathtub, is a material that contains a base and a hardener.
Simply put, enamel is not exactly paint in the usual sense, but polymer composites, meeting numerous requirements. Therefore, it is necessary to treat it as a complex chemical composition, which is manufactured and mixed using a special technology.
The main color is white, and various fillers and dyes are used to prepare colored shades.
It’s worth mentioning right away that the enameling does not in any way pretend to be of factory quality, so it should be treated as current repairs. It's just a covering thin layer film that hardens in air without special ovens.
The technology of coating a bathtub with enamel is divided into four stages:
- Putty, or, as it can also be called, leveling out all irregularities, if any.
- Preparing the base for coating, which involves cleaning and removing the surface layer of existing enamel.
- Enamel preparation and application to the surface.
- Proper drying or drying.
All stages of work are very important, nothing should be missed here. Even a small inaccuracy can lead to a decrease in the service life of the coating, but let’s look at everything in order. First of all, you need to remove chips or scratches.
Step #1 – surface preparation
To properly prepare the interior surface, it is best to remove the completely damaged layer of paint. For this the most the best option, if the layer is protected before priming.
Cleaning can be done manually or using electrical devices: angle grinder (angle Grinder), drills, grinders.
Surface treatment is carried out manually using an abrasive method; for this, two types of working material are used: sandpaper and metal grid, which is used for leveling plaster during construction and repair.
The abrasive cloth has a paper or fabric base. Fabric ones are available in moisture-resistant and regular types. The grain size is measured in microns, so the higher the number, the finer the grain. The abrasive cloth can be used for handmade in holders or with power tools
Using sandpaper it is necessary to select a base to which it will be attached. For this, there are special graters with screw or spring clamps at the edges. You can also make the base yourself from a block of wood.
Sandpaper There are several types: paper and fabric based. Fabric ones are more durable and can be washed, but paper based- No. Fabric impregnated ones are more resistant to abrasion special composition. Suitable grain size for work P120-P180.
Metal grid more practical because it does not wear out or lose grain, and if it becomes clogged with dust, you can wash it and continue working. The mesh is attached to the holders.
A standard holder for an abrasive mesh or sandpaper should have a flat and rigid surface. Clamps for the blade can be screw or spring.
When purchasing, be sure to pay attention to the handle, which must be cast with a base. If the handle is attached with glue, then there is a chance that it will break in the midst of work. Professional meshes can be made from tungsten filaments, but they are much more expensive.
The mesh markings are the same as sandpaper. Widespread brands: R-120, R-150, R-180, R-240. To remove the surface layer of paint from a bathtub would be better suited P120 – P180.
Surface preparation is carried out until all defects are completely removed, or until the ground layer is reached.
Step #2 – preparation and application of the composite
If the surface has unevenness, chips, or deep scratches, then it is better to use special putties to level the surface.
To putty cracks, chips, and deep scratches, a putty is selected that contains fiberglass in its structure. Such composites are best suited for repairing chips and irregularities.
In order to prepare the place for repairing the chip, you need to:
- thoroughly degrease the defect with bleach, denatured alcohol or acetone;
- rinse the area with running water and dry with a hairdryer;
- clean thoroughly with sandpaper;
- rinse again with clean water and dry with a hairdryer;
- prepare the composite.
According to practicing craftsmen, putty containing fiberglass is better suited - this composition is the most durable.
So, among suitable putties, we can recommend a polyester company Novol or Body. These materials, after hardening, have high ductility, which is important in conditions of constantly changing temperatures when using a bathroom.
Finishing putty cannot be used to seal chips in bathtubs. Since it has a large linear temperature expansion.
You must first decide on the volume required material. You only need a little putty, so it’s best to buy a small jar. High-quality putties are two-component, one of which is a hardener.
The ratio of mixed components is determined according to the instructions for use, but if there is none, then general standard 1:10 . After combining the 2 components, you need to mix them thoroughly and quickly until smooth, the start time for hardening is 2 minutes.
Once the components are ready, you can begin sealing. It is best to repair uneven areas with a soft nylon spatula. This will allow you to clearly repeat the shape of the curves of the bathtub body. Yes, and you don’t mind throwing away such a spatula later, saving valuable time for work
After the composite is ready, all defects are repaired with a plastic spatula. Having finished sealing the unevenness, it is necessary to clean all the working tools, because after 10-15 minutes the putty will turn into “stone”.
Step #3 – painting the cast iron bowl
Painting of the accessible part of the surface is done manually using a velor roller; inaccessible areas are painted with a brush.
To apply paint with a roller, the prepared paint is poured into a special ditch. After immersing the roller in the paint, it must be rolled one or two turns along the ribbed edge of the ditch.
Then paint with intense movements from the bottom of the bathtub to the edge of the top, while the movements should be directed from bottom to top. Inaccessible places for the roller are painted with a flute brush.
Step #4 – drying after painting
Drying after painting occurs only under natural conditions: drying of one layer of paint should last at least 3 days. Each repeated layer adds another day. Thus, drying with a three-layer coating will be at least 6 days.
It is not recommended to speed up this process with artificial ventilation, because uneven drying is possible, which will lead to internal tension of the film, and as a consequence, its subsequent peeling.
There is no need to rush into drying the enamel or acrylic coating of a bathtub, as this can lead to many troubles, from reducing the service life of the coating to peeling it off.
Having decided to go it alone, it is important to adhere to a number of rules and perform all actions consistently. Only in this case can a positive result be guaranteed.
If the shower is not dismantled, it must be removed to eliminate even the theoretical possibility of water drops falling while the paint is drying.
Secondly, degrease the prepared surface. The best solution for degreasing - this is denatured alcohol, solvent 646, in extreme cases - acetone.
Solvents are good for processing, but do not remove residual corundum particles or debris, so after cleaning it is best to rinse and vacuum the surface.
Third, you should prepare the paint correctly. It must be mixed according to the attached instructions. It is worth remembering that the time for painting after mixing the components is 15-20 minutes.
The viscosity of the paint should not be too thick, otherwise it will be very difficult to apply, but not liquid, so that drips do not form.
Almost all paints are diluted with 646 solvent or acetone. The acrylic-based composition is incompatible with domestic solvents.
Fourth, you need to take time to prepare the brush flute. Which consists of combing out loose hairs with a fine comb so that they do not fall out during the coloring process.
Then you need to run it over coarse sandpaper several times to give the bristles a pointed appearance.
Fifthly To speed up the surface preparation process, you can use a power tool. If you don’t find what you need, you can borrow it from a good-natured neighbor or friend.
U home handyman Those who independently carry out repairs must have electrical appliances in their arsenal: drill, screwdriver A number of surface grinders consist of a sandpaper belt moving like a conveyor. The width of the tape can vary greatly. And the machines themselves - of varying power and belt speed
You can also use a screwdriver to prepare the surface, clamping a backing material for the abrasive material into the chuck instead of a drill. Or use special attachments for angle grinder typewriter.
When using electrical appliances to paint surfaces, you should pay attention to some of their features:
- Not all power tools have dust protection in the ventilation holes; to prevent paint particles from getting inside the device, you can cover the ventilation holes with several layers of gauze.
- Electrical appliances with commutator motors during operation create a spark between the electric brush and the commutator plates. If they are used continuously, paint will accumulate inside, which can cause a fire.
When using power tools, it is better to give preference to devices with rechargeable batteries– they are more mobile and safer.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
This is how you putty a chipped bathroom:
Most common mistakes when restoring the coating:
Detailed instructions for restoring the bathtub cover:
As you can see, it is not so difficult to do it at home; the main thing is to clearly understand the sequence of operations and do everything without errors. But if you doubt own strength– entrust this work to professionals.
Have you ever renovated a bathtub yourself? Please tell visitors to our site which method you used and why you chose it. Leave your comments in the block below. There you can ask questions about the topic of the article.
Any, even the most reliable and high-quality bathtub, over time can become covered with cracks and roughness, turn yellow or rust. It is almost impossible to avoid this - even the mildest detergents And household chemicals lead to thinning and wear of the surface coating. In this case, the bath owner is faced with the question of purchasing and installing a new bowl. However, this is a rather expensive solution, which, moreover, entails the need for repairs to the premises. Therefore, it is better to restore the bathtub - it will not require high costs, and the work can be done independently.
There are three main methods that allow you to restore the appearance of old plumbing: applying a new enamel coating, restoration with self-leveling acrylic and using a special liner. It is better to choose a specific method taking into account your own financial capabilities, the materials from which the bowl is made, as well as its condition.
In addition, it should be taken into account that such a solution has a number of disadvantages, since a bowl with a new coating will not have the same performance characteristics as one that was manufactured in an industrial environment.
- The materials that are used to restore plumbing fixtures are less durable and not as strong, so the surface requires more careful and gentle care.
- When enameling a bathtub or restoring it using liquid acrylic You may encounter the following problem: the original color of the bowl will shine through the new coating (especially if the layer is too thin), changing its shade.
- During use and cleaning, the color of the bathtub may change under the influence of chemicals.
- Sharp or bulky objects will cause damage to the new covering even if they fall from small height, and dyes (such as hair dyes) may leave permanent stains.
- Those who like to smoke in the bathroom will have to give up their habit, as a cigarette can leave an unsightly burn on the surface.
However, restored plumbing fixtures are repairable, and their properties directly depend on the quality of materials and the accuracy of the work.
Despite the growing popularity of modern polymer compositions, steel and cast iron plumbing fixtures with enamel coating are often found in modern houses and apartments. The metal is strong and reliable material, but the enamel coating wears out quite quickly. Restoring an enamel coating is a fairly simple process that does not require special knowledge or skills.
True, this method of restoring the appearance of bathtubs has one significant drawback. Cracks that appear on the surface grow very quickly, the enamel begins to peel off, water accumulates underneath it, which leads to the appearance of an unpleasant odor, dampness and mold. In addition, this method is not suitable for bathtubs with a large number of small defects - they can be noticeable even after applying the coating.
How to choose a composition for restoring enamel?
In order for the new coating to be strong and reliable, you need to choose a composition for restoring bathtubs. There are not many options, so to make the right choice you need to know the basic characteristics and properties of the compositions.
| Name | Manufacturer | Durability of the coating | Features of work |
|---|---|---|---|
| Russia, Germany | On average 5 years (subject to the conditions of application and operation, the figure can reach 7-9 years) | A two-component enamel with a hardener that hardens completely in 48 hours. Fills all minor defects of the bathtub surface well. It is quite difficult to work with the solution, since it is very thick and “sets” in about 60 minutes | |
| Russia | 6-8 years | Two-component solution with epoxy resin. It can be used when there are no noticeable defects or damage on the bathroom. Requires quick work as it hardens in about 70 minutes. In liquid form it is toxic and can cause allergies | |
| Tikkurila Company (Russia, Finland) | 10-15 years | One of the highest quality but most expensive compounds for restoring plumbing fixtures. Working with the solution is quite simple, but the bath will be able to be used for its intended purpose in at least a week | |
| Random House Company, Russia | 6-8 years | Bathtub restoration kits, which include a two-component bowl coating, hardener and surface preparation products |
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Step-by-step instructions for restoring a bathtub with enamel
Stage one. Preparation of available tools and materials
To enamel baths you will need the following tools:
The enamel that will be used to restore the bathtub must come complete with all the necessary components. To give the coating the desired shade, you can purchase a special tinting paste (unless prohibited by the manufacturer). In addition, it is very important to protect your mouth and nose with a respirator, your hands with gloves, and carry out all work only in a well-ventilated or ventilated area.
Stage two. Preparation for applying enamel coating
Before you start enameling the bowl, you need to thoroughly clean the surface, since the quality and aesthetic appearance of the coating depends on this.
| Step, no. | Description |
|---|---|
| Sprinkle the bathtub with an abrasive agent and clean it with coarse sandpaper. You can also use sanding attachment electric drill, and also remove old enamel by sandblasting or hydrochloric acid diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 4. | |
| Areas where there are rust spots, treat with a rust converter, wait 30 minutes and sand well. If there are deep cracks or chips on the surface, it is better to use automotive putty - there is a risk that the composition will not be able to fill them, and the enamel layer will turn out uneven | |
| Remove any remaining old coating and wipe the bath well using a rag or lint-free cloth. | |
| Fill the bowl with hot water, leave it for 10 minutes to warm the surface, drain the liquid and dry the surface. Make sure there are no crumbs, lint or debris left on the bathtub. |
The preparation of the bath must be done in exactly this sequence, without skipping a single step, otherwise the enamel will quickly come off. As clean as possible smooth surface bathtubs are a guarantee that the new coating will be durable and reliable.
Stage three. Application of enamel coating
Combine all enamel components as indicated in the instructions, mix the composition well. Divide it into two parts - for the base and top coat. Apply the first layer with a wide brush - it should be thin, but as even as possible, without changes. It is better to start from the edges of the bowl, gradually moving down. The composition must be spread very well so that it fills all the pores of the material. After applying the first layer, you need to leave it for 10-15 minutes, but you shouldn’t wait until it dries completely, otherwise the enamel may become dusty, and then the work will be ruined. Next, apply a second layer with the same brush, the direction of the strokes is from the middle to the edges. Leave the bath for another 15 minutes and eliminate defects (even experienced craftsmen have them), using the brush in the same way. You can perform this procedure until the enamel becomes too viscous.
Sometimes containers with a spray bottle are used to apply the mixture, but experts recommend avoiding this method, as bubbles and streaks may appear on the surface, causing the enamel to peel off. Instead of a spray bottle, it is better to use a compressor - it will allow you to evenly distribute the composition over the walls of the bath and create a coating of the same thickness.
It is better not to use the bath for a week - this is exactly how long it takes for the enamel to completely harden. The room temperature should be maintained at 23 degrees.
Video - restoration of a bathtub using the enameling method
Method number 2. Filling bath
This method of restoring plumbing consists of the following: liquid acrylic is poured into a bowl, which subsequently hardens and forms a new coating. Compared to surface enameling, which is described above, it has a number of advantages.
- Acrylic is a thick and viscous substance, thanks to which it lays on the surface in a thick, even layer, hiding all the defects and unevenness of the bathtub.
- The composition does not leave smudges, streaks or bubbles on the surface.
- To restore the bathtub, you do not need to remove the tiles or dismantle the bowl.
- The process takes less time than enameling or restoration using an inlay.
- Acrylic creates a film on the surface that repels dirt and plaque.
- Applying the mixture does not require special knowledge and skills.
- Most materials used for bathtub restoration have virtually no unpleasant odor.
The result of this restoration method will be a smooth, glossy surface that perfectly retains heat and does not retain dirt. As with enameling a bathtub, before you begin, you need to think about the choice of material. It is important to note that neither for the sake of economy nor for any other purpose can you use ordinary acrylic, which is sold in hardware stores, for the restoration of bathtubs. According to its characteristics, it differs from sanitary acrylic, which is used specifically for the restoration of plumbing fixtures, so you can completely ruin the bathtub and harm your health. The choice in this case is made between glass and liquid acrylic.
Glass or liquid acrylic?
Today, two types of materials are used for the restoration of bathtubs: glass acrylic and poured acrylic (the market leader in the production of such materials is the Plastall company, which is why liquid acrylic is often called plastol). Many consumers believe that they are no different from each other, but in fact this is not the case.
Stakryl appeared in stores about 10 years ago and has already proven itself well. It fits well on any surface and is cheaper than plastol, however, restoring bathtubs with its help can be quite difficult for beginners, since the composition sets quite quickly. Working with plastol is much easier, since it is less demanding to use and does not have a pungent odor. In addition, this material retains its properties even after freezing.
The Plastall company offers consumers who want to restore their bathtubs themselves a whole line of materials.
| Name | Drying time | Peculiarities |
|---|---|---|
| "Plastol" classic | 36-48 hours | An easy-to-work material that spreads well, has increased ductility and good adhesion. It has no pungent odor, does not require the addition of thinners or other substances, and forms a smooth and fade-resistant film. The mixture retains its properties for 90 minutes |
| "Plastol-24" | 24 hours | A new material based on an improved classic formula. Applied in one layer, the surface does not turn yellow, does not crack or peel, and is resistant to mechanical damage and abrasion |
| "Plastol-M" | 36-48 hours | A budget solution with an optimized formula, so the result of using the material is no different from restoring bathtubs using more expensive products. Does not have a strong odor, does not cause allergies, the mixture retains its characteristics for 90 minutes |
| "Plastol-Super" | 16 hours | The “fastest” liquid acrylic that hardens in a matter of hours. Does not form bubbles or streaks, does not require the addition of solvents or other components, but the mixture is “viable” for only 45 minutes |
When choosing a material, it is important to pay attention to the price - a good product cannot cost less than what is indicated on the manufacturer’s website, and counterfeits do not provide required quality finished coating. For those who do not yet have experience in restoring bathtubs, it is recommended to buy acrylic with a reserve so that it is enough to cover the entire surface.
Step-by-step instructions for restoring bathtubs with self-leveling acrylic
Stage one. Preparing to pour acrylic
Surface preparation for restoration is practically no different from preparatory stage when enameling a bathtub. You need to clean off the old coating and sand the bowl so that its surface becomes matte, warm it up and dry it. After this, you need to disconnect the siphon designed for draining water and place a container under the bathtub into which excess acrylic will drain (the material must be avoided getting into the sewer - this can lead to serious problems with water drainage).
Stage two. Filling a bathtub with acrylic
Prepare the mixture as indicated in the instructions, pour into a convenient container and place next to it rubber spatula. If you need a material of a specific color, you can use a tinting paste, but first make sure that this is allowed by the manufacturer. Its amount should not exceed 3% of the total volume of acrylic.
Take a container with acrylic and pour the composition in a thin stream onto the sides of the bowl, pushing it with a spatula under the edges of the tile. There is no need to pour too quickly and forcefully - you need to act so that you get a layer 4-6 mm thick, and the material slowly flows down to about the middle.
Move the container evenly around the perimeter of the bowl, without taking long breaks, until the circle is closed.
Move the jet closer to the middle of the bath and do the same to cover the entire surface. You should not try to smooth out streaks or unevenness - this will only worsen the situation, and all defects will disappear during the drying process. The time for complete hardening of the acrylic is indicated in the instructions, but it is better not to use the bathtub for three days.
During the entire period while the material dries, it is better not to touch the bathtub or even get close to it, since the entry of the slightest particles of dust or debris can spoil the appearance of the restored plumbing fixtures.
Video - Instructions for restoring bathtubs with Stakryl
Method No. 3. Restoration using an inlay
Restoring bathtubs using acrylic liners is also called the “bath-to-bath” method. The liner is a structure made of acrylic, plastic or silicone, which represents exact copy bowls. You can buy it in a specialized store, having done everything first necessary measurements baths, and then glue them to the old bowl.
The most popular today are acrylic inserts - they are much more aesthetically pleasing and durable than plastic or silicone ones. This design is ideal for old bathtubs that cannot be restored with a new layer of enamel or liquid acrylic. In addition, the surface of the liners retains heat perfectly, its surface is absolutely smooth, but at the same time does not slip at all.
This is the most reliable way restore a bathtub (the service life of a high-quality acrylic liner is approximately 15-20 years) and, contrary to popular belief, it does not reduce inner space bathroom
However, this method of bathtub restoration also has its drawbacks.
- Difficult to install. Installation of an acrylic liner is quite complex and labor-intensive process. The liner is placed so that it covers the edges of the bathtub, and if the bowl is installed close to the wall, you will have to additionally remove the side and break the tiles.
- Possibility of water getting between two baths. If the installation was performed incorrectly, or due to wear and tear or the use of poor-quality materials, water may get between the liner and the bottom of the bowl. This will lead to dampness, mold and an unpleasant odor.
- Inconveniences during operation. Sometimes manufacturers make liners that are too thin, which is why they can sag underfoot and eventually become deformed or burst.
- Inserts are made for standard bathtubs only. As a rule, bathtubs are divided into two types - 1.5 m and 1.7 m, and if the bowl has non-standard sizes or shape, choosing an insert will be very difficult, and sometimes impossible.
- Enough high price. Compared to new ones acrylic bathtubs The liners are inexpensive, but for this price you can buy a new steel bathtub.
How to choose an insert?
To avoid making mistakes when purchasing an insert, you need to take the following measurements:
- the width of the bowl along the inner surface, and measurements should be taken on both sides;
- length along the inner and outer surfaces;
- depth of the bowl at the drainage point.
To avoid making a mistake that will entail hassle and additional costs, you can invite a professional measurer.
How to choose a bath liner
It should be noted that most modern stores sell products with a thickness of 3 and sometimes 2 mm - such liners are very short-lived, and it is not recommended to use them for the restoration of bathtubs. IN best case scenario the structure will last about 5 years, after which it will have to be dismantled and replaced.
Step-by-step instructions for restoring a bathtub with a liner
Stage one. Preparing the bath and available products
To install acrylic liners, polyurethane foam and silicone sealant. It should be noted that to perform the work you need to use only tools specifically designed for these purposes. Simple foam, which is used in repair work, will not work in this case - it has a low density and expands too much. To improve these characteristics, additional components are added to the foam - this is the material used for installing acrylic liners. In addition, in this case, a plumbing sealant is used, which is waterproof and mold resistant.
Preparing a bathtub for restoration with a liner– a rather long and labor-intensive process, which, in the absence of appropriate skills, is best left to specialists.
Stage two. Installing the liner
The basic rule that should be remembered when installing an acrylic liner is that all work should be done quickly enough (in about 4-5 minutes), otherwise the adhesive composition will harden and will not “grab” the materials well.
| Step, no. | Description |
|---|---|
| Apply to the bottom and sides of the bathtub polyurethane foam. Its quantity also depends on the tightness of the structure, but usually it is applied in stripes with an interval of 4-5 cm, and on the sides the stripes should be vertical and stretch from the bottom to the very top | |
| Install liner | |
| It’s good to press down the sides of the liner with your hands, then stand with your bare feet in the place where the drain is located and move towards the opposite edge - this way the liner will fall into place and press firmly against the surface of the bowl. After this, press down the walls of the structure well with your hands. It is not recommended to put pressure on the liner with any hard objects or hit it, otherwise you can damage the acrylic during the installation process |