Plastering in the bathroom: choice of material and work technology. Full review - which plaster is better for leveling walls! Mixture for plastering and leveling walls

Will quickly lose its original appearance, and will have to do it again. To save time and money, it is better to immediately properly level the walls. Which method of leveling walls is better to choose and how to carry out all the work?

Assessment of wall surface roughness

All methods of leveling walls are divided into two fundamentally different groups:

One way or another choose, taking into account the degree of unevenness of the walls, so this stage is especially important. You can measure how uneven the walls are laser level or regular building level.

Sequence of work looks like this:

preparation of the wall surface. In order for the leveling mixture to stick, the wall must be properly treated. First, all remnants of the old coating are removed, then priming is carried out for better adhesion to the plaster layer. Under cement compositions they use a primer made from a solution and water, the so-called cement laitance; it is better to use a special one for gypsum plaster;
if the plaster layer is more than 2 cm, then at this stage it is better to use reinforcing plaster mesh , which will not allow the composition to crumble. It is worth noting that if you use a ready-made factory plaster mixture, then you should pay attention to the composition: some manufacturers use polymer additives that increase the strength and degree of adhesion of the solution so much that a mesh may not be needed;
installation of beacons. Wooden slats or a perforated metal profile are used as beacons, which become a guideline for creating a flat surface. The latter will be more convenient for beginners, since such beacons will not have to be removed after the plaster layer has slightly hardened and then the recesses will be masked. First, two beacons are mounted at opposite ends of the wall, and the beacons are secured with gypsum mortar of the required height until ideal verticality is achieved. Three cords are pulled between the two resulting beacons: at the top, in the middle of the wall and at the bottom, and already focusing on them, intermediate beacons are installed so that they lightly touch the cord. The step between the beacons depends on the size of the tool that will be used to level the plaster mixture (usually a rule is used for this). In any case, the distance between the beacons should be 20 cm less than the length of the instrument;
You can find a wide variety in construction stores. At the construction site, all that remains is to prepare the solution correctly, following the instructions. You can prepare a cement plaster solution yourself: mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:6, then add water to a creamy consistency. Some experts recommend sticking to a component ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, ready mix It turns out to be more plastic, and therefore easier to handle. The finished solution is used for 1-2 hours until it begins to harden;
applying plaster. To do this, you can use a “falcon” and a trowel. The first is to take the mixture from a container, the second is to throw it on the wall in excess. The use of a “falcon”, a tool similar to a trowel, but larger in size, allows you to increase the speed of work. Now, as a rule, you need to evenly distribute the solution from bottom to top, leaning on the beacons. If the leveling layer is thick, then you can first apply a rough outline of the plaster, and after it dries, apply the main layer with leveling along the beacons. If wooden slats were used as the latter, then when the solution dries a little, they need to be carefully removed, the cavities filled with plaster and leveled with a spatula;
After the plaster dries, we obtain a smooth but rough surface. To make it smooth, you need to apply thin layer of putty, and then sand the surface with fine sandpaper.

The main advantage of this leveling method is the maximum preservation usable area rooms. The disadvantages are the laboriousness of the process, the need to prepare the base and the presence large quantity dust.

No. 2. Leveling walls with putty

However, do not forget that this method of leveling walls will take up a lot of usable space, and if it is already in short supply, then the room risks turning into a hole. Walls covered with plasterboard sheets will be able to withstand less load than those lined with plaster. If we are talking about a room with high humidity, then you should use moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets.

Sequence of work:

frame construction. It may consist of a metal profile. The timber does not allow achieving the desired durability of the frame, it is susceptible to the influence of moisture and microorganisms, therefore in most cases today they are used guide and rack metal profile.
The first two profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling.
Using a level, draw a straight line on the floor at a distance of 5-6 cm from the wall (more is possible if the curvature is large or you need to hide communications).
Using a vertical plumb line, the line is transferred to the ceiling.
Guide profiles are fastened along the resulting lines with self-tapping screws, constantly checking the evenness of their level using a plumb line. Between them, perpendicular to them, along the wall they fasten load-bearing profiles by using . The distance between them is 40-60 cm for plasterboard sheets 120 cm wide;

In Khrushchev and Stalinist houses, builders usually did not make sure that the walls were even. Because of this, when repairing, you should first level the walls.

When to level walls

When renovating, you cannot put wallpaper on walls that have defects.

And if you want to glue tiles, then the walls need to be leveled so that they are very even, otherwise there will be voids under the tiles.

Do-it-yourself leveling

Before carrying out work, you should select and prepare a mixture for plastering the walls. Dry plaster mixtures contain two binding materials - gypsum and cement. Calculate the amount of material, taking into account the area to be leveled and the number of layers applied.

If you work in residential premises (living rooms, halls, bedrooms), we recommend a gypsum-based mixture that is more environmentally friendly and maintains a favorable microclimate in the room. For kitchens, bathrooms, pantries and more utility rooms Cement mixtures are quite suitable.

Tools

Buy tools:

primer;
screwdriver;
beacon profiles;
angle grinder;
hammer:
screws and dowels;
a drill with a set of drills and a mixer attachment;
plumb line;
roulette;
bucket or other container;
building level;
thread, marker or pencil;
wide and narrow spatulas, a brush or roller, usually ironed.

In addition, you should buy work clothes, headband, gloves.

Surface preparation

First you need to clean off the old coating.
Next, tap the wall with a hammer; if cracks are detected or appear, they are covered with putty or a mortar of cement and sand.
Remove old nails and other metal materials from the wall. The reinforcement is trimmed with an angle grinder and then coated with an anti-corrosion substance.
Cover the furniture in the room with film.
Markings are applied.

Apply a building level to the wall horizontally and vertically to see all the irregularities.

Then they look for defects, for this they put the rule against the wall. So, where there are defects, they put a mark.

Next, they retreat from the corners of the room by 0.3 m, and then draw straight lines vertically in the direction from ceiling to floor. Then they step back 1.6 m from each drawn line and make another line vertically. They determine the length of the beacons; to do this, step down from the ceiling by 150 mm in the corners, and up from the floor by 150 mm, drill holes, and insert dowels with self-tapping screws.

Then they pull the cords horizontally from one corner to another, one slightly below the ceiling, the other cord 15 cm below the floor. In places where the cord will intersect with the lines drawn vertically, drill holes and insert dowels without self-tapping screws. As a result, 2 rows of dowels are formed, with a distance of 150 mm from the ceiling and floor.

Prime the wall

If the wall is brickwork or it is made of cellular concrete, then prime with a deeply penetrating compound; if the wall is smooth, then you can choose “Concrete Contact”.

Installing beacons

Screw self-tapping screws into the upper dowels, apply a rule to any self-tapping screw and see how you need to screw the self-tapping screws into the lower dowels so that there is a straight line vertically between them.
Next, two diagonal threads are pulled between the heads of the screws, then a beacon profile is placed under them and moved under the threads to see if it will protrude later. If the beacon profile catches the thread, then re-check the deepening of the screws. Then pull the thread between the screws near the ceiling and near the floor. They are checked in the same way with a beacon profile.
Then calculate the indentation between the upper and lower dowels and cut the beacon so that it indents 5 cm on each side.
And then they do a small amount of plaster. It is spread on the wall along a vertical line, then the cut off beacon is pressed into the plaster so that it is flush with the screw heads. As a result, you need to check whether you installed the beacons correctly. Remove the screws from the wall and wait until the applied plaster dries.

Carrying out work: master class

Wall unevenness up to 3 cm can be eliminated with just one layer of plaster, but sometimes plasters are used that can be used to apply a layer of up to 5 cm.

To mix the mixture, you will need a bucket or other suitable container, a mixer or a drill with an appropriate attachment. The mixture is placed in a container, diluted with water and actively mixed. After this, take a short break and mix again until completely homogeneous. The proportions for mixing the mixture with water are usually indicated on the packaging. To avoid misunderstandings, they should be followed. Otherwise, the mixture will either be too liquid and will not be able to stay on the wall, or will be too thick and will not stick well to the wall.

After appropriate preparation of the wall and installation of beacons, the mixture is thrown onto the wall with a large spatula and leveled using the rule. It is convenient to apply the plaster onto a large spatula using a small narrow spatula.

If there are broaches, holes and depressions left on the surface, then you should not get carried away with beauty at this stage, because all this can be corrected by grouting and puttying. If you do not want the formation of broaches, then more often remove the solution from the rule with a spatula and clean it with a brush, which will not be superfluous to moisten in water. When working in corners, certain difficulties will certainly arise, so the best option Their solution will be to sequentially plaster first one wall, and then, after it dries, the second wall.

It is clear that all beacons must be on time, removed before the plaster hardens, and potholes carefully covered with mortar. But there is no need to remove the lighthouse slats from the plaster!

How best to level very crooked walls: how to level with plaster

If the maximum unevenness of the wall is more than 3 cm, then two or even three layers of gypsum plaster will be required.

The second layer usually needs to be applied a day later, after priming the first layer with water. The rule is to lead from bottom to top along the beacons. The solution remaining on the rule is cleaned off and placed in those places with which the rule did not come into contact. By repeating such movements, the space between adjacent beacons is finally filled. If bumps form, it is recommended to apply the rule from top to bottom, and they will disappear.

Leveling a plaster wall with your own hands: how to carry out the work correctly

When applying two or more layers, do not forget to moisten the previous layers with water after they have dried. The first two layers, if three-layer plastering is intended, are usually not leveled, leaving them rough. And the third layer is brought to perfection.

Is it possible to level plastered walls with plaster?

Yes, if the walls are uneven. It is better to level a plaster wall using gypsum-based plaster.

What to do

If the unevenness is more than 3 cm, then you can cut off the bumps with an angle grinder. It is recommended to cover the depressions with putty.

What materials are best for leveling?

Plaster with gypsum can be applied in a fairly thick layer, but it will still be durable. Because of this, using a similar composition, it is possible to make walls with large defects smooth.

Grouting and sanding after leveling the walls with plaster

If, after applying the plaster, tiling is planned, then it remains as is. If wallpaper is pasted, it must be rubbed with a special trowel; before painting, puttying is done with preliminary rubbing of all defects. Sometimes puttying is done before wallpapering in order to achieve ideal quality - this is at the customer’s choice.

Grout removes all minor defects (sinks, bumps, tool marks) that remain on the plaster. It begins only after the top layer of plaster has completely dried. If the plaster is dry before grouting, it is slightly moistened with water. It is necessary to grate, alternating circular movements and in a running motion, with a special grater. Sometimes this smoothing is done again, also slightly moistening the applied plaster with water, achieving a glossy, optimally leveled wall. After this, putty is applied in accordance with the recommendations placed on the packaging or documents included with the mixture.

Plastering will even out even walls that have severe defects, bumps and depressions. Therefore, after the operation, it will be easy to glue tiles, wallpaper and other materials to the walls.

Useful video

One of the easy ways to renovate your bathroom is to plaster the walls. Special moisture-resistant compounds are suitable for this purpose. In this article we will look in more detail at how to protect walls and ceilings in wet rooms, and which plaster is best suited for this.

There are waterproof and hydrophobic plasters. Waterproof ones withstand high humidity well.

Compositions with hydrophobizing properties create a waterproof film on the surface that repels moisture.

Another type of plaster mixture for the bathroom is sanitizing (drying). These compounds are intended for finishing surfaces prone to efflorescence, mold and mildew.

Moisture resistant plaster

Types of moisture-resistant and hydrophobic plaster mixtures:

Leveling- for correcting the plane of walls, smoothing out bumps and small irregularities. Waterproof leveling plasters are made on a cement base.

Important! It is not recommended to use gypsum solutions in the bathroom. Gypsum does not tolerate contact with water well, and additives do not protect against direct exposure to moisture. Apply gypsum mixture for the bathroom it is possible if you do additional treatment of the walls with waterproofing or tiling.

Decorative. This type of plasters is applied in damp rooms in a very thin layer, so at least two base layers must be applied underneath them. Compositions based on acrylic and silicate are distinguished by high moisture resistance.

Several brands of leveling plaster mixtures for the bathroom:

Water-repellent plaster Profit Gidrofob - designed for leveling walls and ceilings outside and inside the building, especially recommended for finishing rooms with constantly high humidity (bathrooms, showers, swimming pools, etc.) and frequently moistened facade fragments.
Dry cement waterproofing mixture for leveling walls and ceilings in wet rooms CONSOLIT 540. Hydrated lime and a complex of special additives included in its composition create a solution with high water-holding capacity.
WEBER VETONIT TT 40 is a cement-sand composition for manual and mechanized application.
Knauf plasters: Grünband, Unterputz, Sockelputz (only as a base for decorative).
Brand Osnovit: Startwell PC21 façade, Slimwell PC23 thin-layer, Flywell PC24/1 ML lightweight cement, Prowell PC20 plaster spray (for the first layer).

These plasters are suitable for rough finishing before painting or under tiles. Read about how and what to use to level walls for tiles here.

Moisture-resistant decorative plaster mixtures:

Ceresit: ST35 (bark beetle), ST174 pebble silicate-silicone, acrylic mixtures (ST 60, 63, 64), Decor plus hydrophobic (water-repellent).
Knauf Diamond.
Base: Exterwell fur coat, modeled (to create original texture), tinted (colored).

Advantages of moisture-resistant plasters:

vapor permeability - plastered surfaces “breathe”, condensation does not form on them;
create conditions unfavorable for the development of mold, fungi, bacteria;
versatility - level, decorate, disinfect bathroom walls;
ease of care for plastered surfaces;
low finishing price;
large selection of color and texture options;
no complicated preparation is required before application;
no efflorescence is formed.

Sanitizing compounds for wet rooms

Sanitizing plaster mixtures are used for:

restoration of damp walls in old buildings where conventional solutions are unsuitable;
quick drying of surfaces in damp rooms;
preventing the appearance of efflorescence, mold and mildew colonies.

The advantage of using them is the ability to dry rooms without mechanical impact, due to the constant extraction of moisture from the inside. The surface of the sanitizing plaster is porous, that is, it has a larger area than usual. Due to this, moisture evaporates 10 times faster. During the evaporation of water, salts remain in the pores of the coating and do not appear on the surface.

Several brands of sanitizing plaster mixtures for the bathroom:

Ceresite hydrophilic CR 61 and hydrophobic CR 62.
Baumit SanovaPutz S.
Thermal insulation ThermoUM and ThermoUM Xtra.
Thermal insulation ThermoSAN for highly damp and salty surfaces.

How to line the walls in the bathroom

Cement plaster

The best option for leveling bathroom walls is cement-based plaster mixtures. They create a durable, waterproof coating. But their disadvantage is that they take longer to dry than gypsum.

To save time, avoid adding excess dirt and avoid confusing the composition, novice craftsmen are advised to purchase ready-made dry mixtures.

But if you decide to prepare the solution yourself, then for this you need: Portland cement grade M400 or M500, washed fine-grained sand and a plasticizer.

The materials are mixed in the following proportions:

M400: sand - in a ratio of 1:4;
M500: sand - in a ratio of 1:5.

Plasticizer added to increase the elasticity of the mixture, facilitate plastering, increase the adhesion of the solution and reduce cracking. Its amount depends on the concentration; you must see the instructions from the manufacturer. The plasticizer can be replaced with liquid detergent, adding it to water before mixing the plaster solution in an amount of 0.5-1% by weight of the resulting cement.

Every owner of an apartment or private house who has decided to undertake a major renovation of their home has many different questions about carrying out certain construction or finishing works. One of the most common: what methods of leveling walls that can be done independently exist, and which one to choose in a particular case.

We have to admit, with regret, that the walls not only in private houses, but also in modern high-rise buildings, are rarely perfectly smooth, and therefore even the most expensive finishing on them will not look properly. Therefore, no matter what decorative coating is planned for the finishing of the premises, it is necessary to put the walls in order, giving them the necessary evenness, in almost any case.

Methods for determining surface roughness

Before choosing an alignment method, you need to determine how much the wall is curved. This can be done in several ways using different tools.

To determine the degree of deformation of surfaces, a long rule, levels of different designs and plumb lines are used.

The rule, in this case, just like one of the building levels, must have a length of at least 2000÷2500 mm, since it is required that the tool rise vertically to almost the entire height of the wall, and also that it can be easily rotated along diagonals. As a rule, if it is not in the home “arsenal”, a perfectly straight slate can be used. But it should not be too thin, bending when force is applied, otherwise accurate measurements will not be possible. Its size in cross section 20x50 mm will be sufficient.

A batten, level or rule is applied to the wall surface vertically, horizontally and diagonally. They monitor the size of the gaps formed between the wall and the tool, which will show the degree of surface unevenness.

Another simple and affordable way to check the verticality of a wall that does not require expensive tools is to use a plumb line. Even if the farm does not have such a device, it is easy to quickly make it yourself. To do this, you will need a thin but strong cord about three meters long, as well as a load weighing 150÷200 grams, best of all, a balanced, symmetrical shape.

Using a plumb line is not difficult: to do this, a nail is driven into the wall, under the ceiling, at a distance of 25÷30 mm from the joint, onto which the cord is attached, and the weight tied to it is freely lowered vertically along the wall. The load should hang freely, not reaching the floor by 10÷15 mm. When the load calms down and does not move, you can see how distorted the surface is - measure the gaps at various points in height - and compare the results.

In addition to the evenness of the walls, it is necessary to check their perpendicularity, that is, the corners of the room must be straight.

A construction square will help in determining this parameter, which is applied in several places along the entire height of the joint and the necessary marks are made. True, the square must be quite large in order to accurately identify possible deviations.

If there is no large square, then it is better to apply the “Egyptian triangle” rule. To do this, two legs are laid from the corner along the walls, multiples of 3 and 4, and the hypotenuse should be a multiple of 5. For example, 1.5 m (0.5 × 3) is measured along one wall, 2 m (0.5 × 4), and the distance between these points in a straight line should be 2.5 m (0.5 × 5). If this is not the case, then the angle is clearly different from the straight one, and it is necessary to look for the cause and a way to eliminate it.

Prices per building level

building level

Probably the most optimal and accurate option is to use a laser plane builder.

This device sets perpendicular vertical planes, projects lines in space, along which, by simple measurements and comparisons of clearance values, it is easy to identify unevenness of wall surfaces, their correspondence to the vertical plane and mutual perpendicularity.

Having determined the deviations of the walls from the required plane, the location of irregularities - depressions or convexities, their approximate height or depth is immediately assessed.

— In the case where surface defects or deviations from the vertical plane are 8÷15 mm or more, it will have to be done by plastering along beacons or by installing plasterboard sheets.

— If the differences do not exceed 5÷8 mm, then you can correct the surface by applying a thin layer of plaster or putty mortar.

Preparing surfaces for leveling

In order to understand what stages the wall leveling work consists of, it is worth considering these processes in more detail. However, before moving on to brief description For each of the alignment methods, a few words need to be said about the preparatory activities common to all technologies.

The preparatory stage can be complex and tedious, but you should not ignore it, as this guarantees the quality of the leveled surface and its operational durability. It is necessary to approach the preparation of walls under especially carefully, but drywall also requires its own special approach.

So, preparing walls for further leveling includes several important operations, which include the following:

The first step is to completely clean the walls. decorative covering, if it is present on the surfaces, remove the old paint or. These processes are carried out different ways, which are described in detail in a separate article.
After the walls are freed from the old finish, the plaster layer will be exposed, which requires the most thorough examination. Such an inspection is necessary, since cracks may have appeared on it during operation, or peeling, partial or complete, cannot be ruled out.

Depending on the extent of damage to the old plaster layer, it will have to be completely removed or proper repairs made. If this layer is thick enough, low-quality material is used for it, and its surface is uneven, then it is better to get rid of it completely.

If the wall has large protrusions, they will have to be knocked down, and small protrusions will have to be sanded or cleaned off with a wire brush.

If “wet” work is expected on the wall, then to ensure electrical safety the room will most likely have to be de-energized. Usually in such cases it is planned to replace sockets and switches, which means that the old ones must be dismantled and then the exposed wires must be insulated.
Having cleaned or repaired the wall surface, it needs to be primed several times - this is to strengthen and remove dust from the surface and to create conditions for reliable adhesion between the surface and the new leveling solution.

Careful preparation of walls is the key to the quality and durability of future finishing

This seemingly simple to understand, but labor-intensive stage has many nuances. A special publication on our portal tells more about all operations.

After the primer has completely dried, you can proceed to applying putty, plaster, or installing special beacon profiles, along which the surfaces will be leveled.

If you plan to level with plaster wooden walls, then they are cleaned of dust and primed with an antiseptic primer for wood. After this, the dried walls are sheathed with wooden slats - shingles, which will create good adhesion between the mortar and wood.

Methods for leveling surfaces

The choice of method for leveling the walls directly depends on their condition, that is, whether they have significant curvatures, or whether it is simply necessary to eliminate a slight surface relief that can appear through layers of paint or pasted wallpaper.

In fact, there are not many technological techniques for leveling walls. They have been used for decades, but with the advent of new building materials– are constantly being improved.

Plaster prices

plaster

So, leveling the walls is carried out in the following ways:

Plastering, that is, applying a leveling layer of a special mortar to the surface. In turn, this method can be divided into two types - leveling the walls using beacons and without using them.
Installation of plasterboard sheets that determine the desired evenness of the wall surface (often also called “dry plaster”). This alignment option is also divided into two different approaches- this is the fastening of sheets to a frame, or frameless fastening of gypsum fiber boards directly to the wall.

Leveling walls with putty This method of putting the surface in order is used in combination with the other two mentioned above, or independently. If the walls have a smooth surface without major geometric distortions, but there are small unevennesses on it, then putty will help bring them to ideal smoothness.

Plastering walls

A few words about leveling solutions

Currently, construction stores offer a very wide range of ready-made building mixtures, intended for plastering work. They can be on different bases

Plasters on cement based used for outdoor work, as well as for rooms with high humidity levels
Gypsum mixtures are suitable for walls made of almost any material, but their scope is limited only to interior decoration.

However, many craftsmen and homeowners prefer to prepare plaster solutions themselves. And the basis for this, in addition to cement or gypsum, can also be lime or clay.

Lime and cement-lime mortars have proven themselves well for external and internal finishing, and clay-based plasters are generally inexpensive (if free raw materials are available) and are suitable for leveling wooden, clay or brick walls.

If you want to try your hand at plastering walls with a homemade solution, then the “recipe” for the preparation can be found in the table below:

Name of solution	Components	Proportions of solutions, depending on the specific layer
		"spray"	"priming"	Covering or “washing”
Cement	Cement: sand	1: (2.5÷4)	1: (2÷3)	1: (1÷2)
Lime	Lime paste: sand	1: (2.5÷4)	1: (2÷3)	1: (1÷1.5)
Clay	Clay: sand	1: (3÷5)	1: (3÷5)	1: (3÷5)
Cement-clay	Cement: clay: sand	1:4:12	1:4:12	1:4:12
Cement-lime	Cement: lime paste: sand	1: (0.3÷1):(3÷5)	1: (0.7÷1):(2.5÷4.5)	1: (1÷1.5):(1.5÷2)
Lime-clay	Lime paste: clay: sand	0.2÷1:(3÷5)	0.2÷1:(3÷5)	0.2÷1:(3÷5)
Lime-gypsum	Lime paste: gypsum: sand	1:(0.3÷1):(2÷3)	1:(0.5÷1.5):(1.5÷2)	1:(1÷1.5)

Plastering walls without installing beacons

Leveling walls with plaster mortar without beacons is possible in cases where the wall is relatively flat, without serious deformations, depressions and depressions, and to put it in order it will be enough to apply a leveling mixture of relatively small thickness. It must be said right away that this method of tidying up the surface is much more difficult than plastering using beacons, since leveling has to be done by eye, and this is not at all easy to do without proper skill. Therefore, if there is no experience in this work, then it is better to entrust it to professional craftsmen.

The process of plastering walls without beacons can be divided into several stages - these are “spraying”, “soil” and “washing”.

"Spray"- this is the first layer of mortar applied to the wall when leveling it. The mixture for this stage should have the consistency of thick sour cream.

When applying the mortar to a brick or stone wall, its layer should be 10÷12 mm, on shingles wooden surface 15÷18 mm.

“Spraying” is carried out with a trowel, onto which the solution is scooped up and, with a little effort, applied to the surface. If the surface of the wall is relatively flat and does not require the application of a thick layer of plaster, then sometimes craftsmen “spray” it even with a wide brush. When applying the solution with a brush, you should not make a large sweep with your hand, otherwise, part of the mixture will be splashed around the room.

You can apply the first layer of plaster using the “spreading” method. In this case, you will need a spatula 200÷250 mm wide, with which the solution is taken from the container and evenly distributed over the surface of the wall in strokes. Perfect alignment of this layer is not required, as it will become the basis for further work.

"Priming"- this is the second layer when plastering walls without beacons, and it is applied only after the “spray” has completely dried. To apply the “soil”, a thicker solution is used - it is thrown onto the surface, starting from the bottom of the wall, filling in the areas not covered by the first layer, thus bringing both layers to approximately the same thickness.

Having applied this solution to a section of the wall 350÷400 mm high, it is leveled using a rule, collecting excess mixture, which is sent back to the container, since it can still be used in further work.

When leveling, unfilled areas may additionally appear, which must be immediately filled with solution and then the rule must be passed over this area.

Sometimes, instead of using a rule to align this layer, special tool- grater.

A trowel is also used to level the solution, simultaneously collecting its excess and filling the identified voids.

The “wash” or top layer of plaster consists of a liquid solution and is intended to eliminate all the flaws remaining on the surface of the wall after applying the “primer”. The thickness of this layer should be no more than two millimeters, so it is very important to maintain the correct consistency of the plaster solution.

In this regard, if the mixture is prepared independently and not purchased from finished form, all materials used in it must be sifted through a sieve with cells no larger than 0.5 ÷ 1 mm. The solution is kneaded until smooth, as there should not be even small lumps left in it.

Prices per rule

Next, the surface of the wall is wetted with water and a thin layer is applied to it using a spatula and trowel. liquid solution. Then, the wet solution is rubbed in with circular movements, which are made counterclockwise. Therefore, this stage of work is often called surface grouting.

When choosing this method of leveling the wall, during each stage of work it is necessary to control the verticality and required evenness of the surface using a rule and a level.

Leveling walls with plaster according to beacons

Leveling walls with plaster mortar using beacons is a more popular method than without installing them, since these elements greatly simplify the work and result in a perfectly flat surface. However, in order for the work to be successful, there is no need to rush when performing them, especially if the process is being performed by a master for the first time.

Leveling Beacon System

Special perforated beacons are most often used as beacons for leveling surfaces. metal profiles having a protrusion, the height of which may vary depending on required thickness plaster layer.

Beacons are installed vertically on the wall surface, at a distance from each other, providing comfortable work the rule of the available length (approximately 200÷300 mm less than the length of the rule). For beginners, an installation step of no more than 1000÷1200 mm is usually optimal. Fastening of profiles is most often done on slides of quick-drying mortar laid out along the line.

Sometimes improvised devices are used to display beacons, for example, pieces of plywood, drywall or ceramic tiles, which are also glued to the solution according to pre-set marks and a plumb line.

However, leveling across entire profiles is much easier, since they are fixed vertically from floor to ceiling and do not allow deviation from the intended level.

The conclusion suggests itself that the most important thing in the process of aligning walls with beacons is their correct alignment, which is done in compliance with certain rules.

Basic techniques for setting up a beacon system

Installing leveling beacons is not as simple as it seems at first glance, since there are some nuances that must be constantly remembered. A professional view of the technology of this stage is presented in an article on our portal.

If we talk about the accessible method of placing beacons in a few words, very simplified, then this process is carried out as follows:

The first step is to set up the outer profile elements, that is, those located closer to the corners of the room.

Then, between them horizontally, in three or four places, cords are stretched, which will serve as a guide for the installation of intermediate beacons.
The required level of the beacons relative to the wall can be achieved by recessing the profiles into the mounds of mortar on which they are fixed.

There are several interesting, accurate and at the same time accessible technologies for placing beacons. This is discussed in detail in other publications on our portal.

The process of plastering walls

Work is usually carried out in sections with a height of 450÷500 mm. Experienced craftsmen can afford large areas, but it is better for a novice plasterer not to rush into this - there will be an opportunity to identify and correct mistakes.

A solution of medium density, with a height that should exceed the level of the beacons by 15÷20 mm, is applied to a certain section of the wall using the “spraying” method (or applying and spreading with a spatula, if spraying has not yet worked out). This thickness is necessary so that when the mixture is leveled as a rule, as few voids as possible remain on the applied layer.

Next, the applied solution, starting from the bottom of the coated section of the wall, is leveled with a rule that is pressed against the edge metal beacons and lead along them as if on rails. In this case, excess solution is usually collected, which is regularly removed with a spatula, sent back to the container and used for the next spray. When leveling, the rule is mixed progressively upward, but at the same time slightly moved horizontally in one direction or the other, which helps fill all the voids in the layer and make the most of the entire applied solution.
Most often, several such passes will usually have to be made, with the identified cavities being filled using a trowel or spatula. The result should be a flat surface, flush with the guides of the beacon system.
After plastering the wall, when the mortar has set slightly, the beacon profiles are carefully removed from the thickness of the plaster. The remaining grooves are sealed with mortar and leveled over the common surface.
Next, more wet surface The plasters are rubbed with a special construction trowel. The work is done in a counterclockwise circular motion.
To refine the internal and external corners of the wall, a special corner spatula is used.

External corners, especially in cases where a thick leveling layer is applied, are recommended to be reinforced with metal perforated corners, which are pressed into the wet mortar and adjusted to the building level.

Let's learn to align walls using beacons!

On the pages of our portal there is a detailed publication dedicated to. It places special emphasis on the issues of creating beacon systems different types– from ordinary profile to mortar and string.

Leveling walls with plasterboard (dry plaster)

Since drywall became available for free sale, and at a price accessible to everyone, it has become the most popular material used to level walls. The fact is that any homeowner is quite capable of working with sheets of this “dry plaster” without resorting to help. construction crew. Moreover, there are two ways to fix it to the surface - with construction glue and with frame sheathing. Therefore, you can choose the option that is more suitable for a specific room and for ease of installation.

Installation of drywall without frame

So, you can level the wall with plasterboard by fixing its sheets with glue made on a gypsum base. Moreover, using this method, even strongly curved surface can be made smooth. However, if the wall is severely deformed, you will have to seriously work on it, since you will need to create unique beacons against which the sheet of finishing material will rest. Self-tapping screws with wide heads or slate nails, which are driven into the wall with the ends of the heads in a single plane, can be verified by any in an accessible way. Slides are applied to these lighthouses adhesive composition, and then a plasterboard sheet is carefully pressed against these points.

1 – old wall surface to be leveled;

2 – screwed-in self-tapping screws, the ends of the heads of which are aligned in the same vertical plane. The pitch between the screws is 200÷300 mm;

3 – slides of gypsum-based construction adhesive;

4 – sheet of drywall.

It is much easier to install drywall on more or less flat wall, preparing it with a primer. To do this, the adhesive mass is applied pointwise in slides to the sheet itself or to the surface of the wall.

Next, the drywall is lifted and pressed against a vertical surface, and then, if necessary, its verticality is adjusted by gentle tapping. In order not to damage the sheet, the adjustment can be carried out with the edge of the rule, which immediately covers the entire width of the sheet.

When fixing the sheet to the wall, the correctness of its position must be checked with a building level. The second and all subsequent sheets are adjusted to the first finishing sheet fixed on the wall. After the glue has dried, the seams between the drywall are sealed with a sickle mesh or special tape, and then filled with putty.

Quickly and reliably - plasterboard on the wall without creating a frame

The main steps of this method were listed above, however, this installation technology still contains some nuances, which are also good to know about when getting started. Therefore, it is recommended to pay attention to the article on our portal.

Frame method of installing drywall

Frame method leveling walls has its advantages and disadvantages, and at the same time is even more popular than fixing sheets with glue.

The disadvantage of this technology is that the frame system significantly reduces the area of the room, since the sheathing itself, plus a sheet of plasterboard, makes up a total thickness of at least 50 mm, that is, the room will be reduced on each side by this distance.

The advantages of such leveling are much greater, therefore, if the area allows, then this method will become ideal option room transformation.

An obvious “advantage” of this installation is the ability to insulate and soundproof the wall by installing a layer of appropriate material in the space between it and the cladding. This is especially true for apartments located in panel buildings.

TO positive aspects can also be attributed to the fact that under frame system“super-thorough” preparation of the walls is not required.

They need to be cleaned of the decorative coating just to make sure that there are no deep cracks in the wall. Small surface defects will not interfere with installation work.
It is necessary to prime the walls before fixing the profiles, and for this purpose an antiseptic solution is used, which will protect the surfaces from the appearance and development of mold.

After the primed surface has completely dried, you can begin marking and installation work.

Profiles are usually installed in increments of 600 mm (along the axes), since the width of all plasterboard sheets is 1200 mm. Thus, each vertically installed sheet will be fixed along three lines. In addition, this is convenient from the point of view that the overwhelming number insulation materials is produced in mats of exactly this width – 600 mm.

To achieve ideal evenness of the walls, it is necessary to carefully align the metal profiles vertically, thereby setting the future plane of the surface being created.

Since the profiles are fixed in special brackets - straight hangers, with perforated side “wings”, it is possible to accurately adjust their distance from the wall. The hangers are fixed along the line using dowels or self-tapping screws (depending on the wall material) in increments of 500÷600 mm.

The protruding ends of the side shelves, after fixing the racks in them, easily bend back, so they will not interfere with the further fixation of the drywall sheets.

To make it easier to cope with the alignment of the frame, first the outer posts are accurately aligned vertically and relative to each other and secured. Then cords are stretched between them, which will indicate how far the intermediate profiles should be extended from the wall.

If the ceilings in the room are high enough, then between vertical posts sometimes horizontal cross members are mounted, which will give the system additional rigidity and strength.

The sheets are secured to the frame using special black self-tapping screws TN25 (3.2×25 mm), the heads of which must be recessed into the plasterboard by 1÷1.5 mm. In the future, these remaining holes from the caps will need to be puttied.

It should be noted that sometimes plasterboard sheets are mounted in two layers - in this case, the created wall covering will have higher strength. The sheets of the outer layer must overlap the joints of the sheets of the lower one.

After the wall is leveled plasterboard system, proceed to sealing the joints, and after the solution has dried, the wall is primed and puttied. The putty layer should completely hide the joints. The final stage of work is the application of a decorative coating - paint or wallpaper.

Universal material - drywall

Modern Finishing work It is already difficult to imagine in houses and apartments without the use of drywall. – this is far from the only way to use it. For example, this material allows you to quickly and efficiently build indoors.

Leveling walls with putty

Bringing the surface of the walls to perfection with putty can be called the final stage for any chosen method of leveling them during interior decoration. In addition, putty, as the only leveling layer, is used if the wall itself is already quite smooth, but has minor errors in the form of small depressions or minor roughness that can appear through decorative finishing- wallpaper or coloring.

The putty has a finer mixture structure, and when mixed, it acquires high plasticity, is easily applied and distributed on a prepared, primed surface, masking flaws and making the wall perfectly smooth.

This leveling layer is applied using spatulas (trowels) of various widths, but large areas A wide spatula is always used, with a working surface of 400 millimeters or more.

Puttying walls is a rather complex process that requires some experience, since you need to achieve smoothness of the walls, and a spatula in inept hands with its edges almost always leaves grooves of varying depths on the surface of the raw plastic mortar, and this must be avoided. If they have formed, they must be leveled immediately, since after the putty mixture has set, this will be difficult to do.

As a rule, two (or even more) layers are applied - one leveling, and the second, finishing, bringing the surface to perfection. Accordingly, for different stages can be applied and different kinds putty.

The final stage of putty work is always grinding the surface to the desired degree of smoothness. This final stage of leveling the walls is carried out using a special grater, onto which mesh attachments or sandpaper of the required grain size are installed. There is also a special electric tool - grinding machines different principles of operation, allowing to speed up this rather labor-intensive process.

Many craftsmen, in order to achieve an ideal result, use portable lighting when performing sanding work, which perfectly reveals poorly aligned areas of the wall, down to the smallest surface defects.

How to learn how to putty walls correctly?

This technological operation is quite complex, and the first results may not be encouraging. It’s okay, the skill will develop, the main thing is to listen to the advice of experienced finishers. A good selection of such recommendations, with step-by-step illustrated instructions, is posted in the article on our portal about.

So, based on everything said above, we can conclude that even if you have no experience in leveling walls, it is possible to choose a method that will be within the capabilities of even a novice builder. By taking on these works, you can not only save a decent amount, but also be confident in their quality - after all, it is done, as they say, “for yourself.” Therefore, when starting an apartment renovation, you need to carefully weigh your financial and creative possibilities, and boldly get down to business.

At the end of the publication there is a short video sketch, which should also help the reader in choosing a method for leveling the walls.

Video: Which method of wall leveling should I choose?

Today, instead of traditional materials that were used for plastering walls, ready-made improved dry mixtures are increasingly used for leveling walls and ceilings, which are made from mineral components and additives.

Leveling compounds are intended for any plastering work, as well as to bring the wall into a normal condition for laying tiles or wood trim. The same mixture is used when wallpapering is necessary.

There are several types of this material:

Solutions based on cement. They are used in any rooms and premises, for example: kitchens, swimming pools, saunas, etc.
Solutions based on adhesive binders. Used in residential areas, for example: bedrooms, lobbies, shops or offices, etc.

It is worth noting that mixtures differ not only in the above parameters. The leveling of surfaces is distinguished by the thickness of the layer that is applied to them. It varies from 0 to 30 mm. If you apply the solution to brickwork- must be carried out plastering work in several stages:

The first layer should be “rough”. It does what is called pre-alignment. Often, this is done using materials such as Nivoplan or Betonit TT.
The second layer is performed using waterproofing materials. This is an intermediate stage.
The thickness of the last layer should be from 0 to 2 mm; this is the immediate preparation of the wall for painting or wallpapering.

Plaster mixtures produced in Germany by KNAUF are high-quality materials for interior decoration. They gained popularity due to the fact that their production is based on building gypsum. This material has many useful properties. These include: resistance to fires (it does not ignite), hygiene (gypsum is absolutely harmless to human health), absorption of moisture in case of excess (and, equally, its release in case of deficiency). Optimal microclimate, preventing heat loss and much more.

An excellent example is the plaster used to level ceilings - “Rotband”. It contains special additives that ensure high adhesion, which means the surface will be even and smooth, without any special difficulties or complications. Also, “Rotband” is quite suitable for concrete walls. Although for this purpose, they often use a dry plaster mixture - “GoldbandNoy”. It is very simple and easy to apply. It is used for manual plastering of internal surfaces, including “rough” ones (stone or brick masonry). “GoldbandNoy” has a slow setting, which allows you to tidy up any walls without much haste.

There are many varieties of decorative plaster, varying in color scheme, and in terms of invoice. It can be corrugated, rustic, rough, etc. For example, the Atlas Zermit SN plaster has a crumb thickness equal to or less than 23 mm, as well as a “small lamb” structure. Obviously, the larger the crumb, the more textured the surface will be. Very often, plaster is used for interior and exterior decoration of premises, which is created on the basis of a water dispersion of artificial resins. For example, “Zermit N 200” or “Zermit R 200”.

Materials that are used to seal seams formed when laying plasterboard slabs are also included in this group of construction products. This can also include lining plaster masses. They serve to prevent the appearance of dirt and stains. They are also used as a basis for high-quality plaster (including decorative).

Various mortars and plaster mixtures for leveling walls are used for finishing residential, utility and industrial premises; stations, offices, shops, toilet rooms, bedrooms, etc. The universal composition of the MAPEL company - “Nivoplan”, has a wide range of applications. These are mixtures that are used both for leveling walls and for plastering with a thin layer of various surfaces, for example: concrete, cement-lime, foam concrete, plasterboard and others.

Surface preparation

Completely different surfaces can act as a base for applying plaster: concrete, cement bonded particle boards, gypsum, ceramic blocks, brick, glass and metal. But there is one distinctive feature. This type of leveling solution is not recommended for use when working with wood or plastic. Only certain compounds can be used for restoration external facades various buildings.

Before starting work with a surface made of brick or various small elements on which there are raw or unfinished seams, you should cut out the mixture in the seams about 10 millimeters deep from the front side of the finishing area. If it is necessary to finish bases made of concrete or gypsum, it is necessary to make a thick oblique mesh from the front side with a sharp chisel, the depth of each strip should be about 3 millimeters. But it is worth noting that for all solutions there are certain requirements, which you need to familiarize yourself with before starting work.

It is important to know that before you begin finishing any surface, you should clean it of external contamination, in the form of dust, dirt, grease, old paint or glue. It is especially necessary to treat the surface carefully before laying decorative plaster. After all, paint or dust can reduce the adhesion between materials, and this will lead to unpleasant consequences.

The base should be treated with special primers or emulsion. If it is necessary to work with a surface whose coating is Oil paint, – then the problem can be solved by adding a dispersion to the putty or plaster.

Application secrets

There is a certain technology according to which it is necessary to level the walls and ceilings. For an experienced plasterer, it presents absolutely no difficulty, and, knowing the secrets, even a beginner can do this work and you can also read on our website what methods exist for leveling walls.

The dry mixture must be filled with water at room temperature and thoroughly mixed in any available way: mechanically or manually. The proportions indicated on the packaging must be strictly observed, otherwise the solution will turn out to be too liquid or thick, and therefore of poor quality.

The resulting mixture is applied evenly to the wall using a trowel; excess can be removed with a wooden grater. If it is necessary to use a thick layer of mortar, level it with a lath, while pressing firmly on it. If you have to work with decorative plaster– it is applied using a smooth metal grater and leveled to the thickness of the crumbs. After this, the surface is rubbed with a trowel made of artificial materials until the desired result is obtained. Depending on the effect you want to achieve, you can grout the plaster using both circular and cross-shaped movements. Horizontally and vertically. It all depends on the needs.

Colored plaster mixtures are applied to wet surface. Under no circumstances should the “rubbed” area be allowed to dry out before applying another coat. If this happens, there will be a stain on the wall. The time during which the plaster hardens ranges from 4 hours to 2 days. It all depends on the air temperature, humidity and other factors.

Almost all solutions used in the treatment of walls and various surfaces are frost-resistant and environmentally friendly. Some contain hydrophobic compounds. They make the plaster resistant to washing off.

Do not treat surfaces or use mixtures to level ceilings and walls at temperatures below ±5°C, or above ±25°C. Restrictions and recommendations can be found on the product packaging.

If we talk about the shelf life of plaster, it ranges from six months to a year. Although, decorative mixtures based on aqueous dispersion or artificial resins (with proper storage) can be used a year after production. Often, I pack them in 25 kg plastic buckets.