Do-it-yourself vegetable pit: stages and construction technology. Do-it-yourself vegetable pit: choosing a location, technology and construction stages How to make waterproofing in a vegetable pit

Groundwater poses a danger of creating in the cellar high humidity, capable of leading to destruction made of reinforced concrete structural elements on which the building stands. Vegetables and other products stored in the basement can also suffer from rotting fungi and other types of microorganisms for which dampness is an ideal breeding ground. Penetrating from the cellar into the living quarters of the house, representatives of flora pathogenic for humans cause respiratory diseases, allergies and other acute and chronic diseases.

When building a cellar and the foundation of a house, it is very important to use external and internal waterproofing, allowing you to protect the building from adverse effects soil, rain and melt water. This is one of the most critical stages of construction, consisting of a set of measures.

Types of waterproofing

Waterproofing measures can be divided into the following types:

1. Anti-pressure - for protection against the effects of groundwater, which is at a level exceeding the height of the cellar floor. It consists of covering the surface of the floor and walls with at least three levels of slurry solutions and bitumen mastics, which are based on polymers. Before applying waterproofing, the cellar walls are treated with a silicate primer.
2. Non-pressure type - protects against the adverse effects of precipitation and possible floods. It is a coating of the internal surfaces of the basement with bitumen mastics.
3. Anti-capillary - allows you to protect the room from water seepage through capillaries in the concrete surfaces of the basement. When performing this, the cracks and damage present in them are additionally processed.

The main function of waterproofing is performed by a properly constructed drainage system and blind area around the building, which remove precipitation from it. Insulating the foundation and floor of the cellar prevents groundwater from entering. If necessary work were not carried out during the construction phase, internal waterproofing will reduce humidity.

The procedure for performing waterproofing during the construction of a cellar

1. The dimensions of the pit for the cellar are calculated taking into account the height of the ceiling and ceilings, and the future thickness of the floor. Typically, the ceiling of the cellar is approximately 50-100 cm below the level to which the soil freezes. Therefore, the estimated trench depth is about 3.5 m.
2. To ensure waterproofing of the building foundation and cellar walls, the dimensions of the pit must be increased by an additional 1 m on all sides.
3. The soil surface is leveled, creating a slight slope from the center to the periphery of the pit. A layer of clay 10 cm thick is laid and compacted.
4. Trenches are dug for drainage with a depth of 30 to 50 cm, also with a slight slope towards the edges of the pit.
5. The bottom of the drainage trenches is covered with geotextile so that it protrudes beyond their limits by approximately 85 cm.
6. Gravel is poured onto the laid textile to a height of 50 mm.
7. Laying in progress drainage pipes with a slope of 5 mm per 1 m.
8. Gravel is poured onto the pipes, the layer depth of which should be approximately 25 cm. To prevent clogging of the pipes, it is advisable to wash the gravel before laying.
9. The protruding edges of the geotextile are lowered onto the pipes. The pipes must go into a collector or drain hole.

Important! Asbestos cement, plastic or ceramic pipes are used as drainage pipes. Their purpose is to collect and drain water to a specially equipped place.

10. Then layers of crushed stone and sand are laid on the bottom of the pit, the thickness of each of which can be from 10 to 15 cm. The surface of each of the filled materials is compacted.

Important! It should be taken into account that sand protects rolled types of waterproofing from damage by crushed stones that have sharp edges.

11. After the base is prepared, one of the types is laid roll waterproofing, for example, roofing felt. Welding the joints of the material is done using a gas torch. There must be at least two layers, each of them is covered with bitumen mastic. But, if the groundwater exceeds the level at which the cellar floor is located, the number of layers is increased by another one or two.

Important! If food will be stored in the cellar, the floor should not be insulated. This will allow you to maintain indoors optimal temperature, both in winter and summer.

12. Construction of formwork and subsequent pouring of concrete. Rigid mixtures that do not allow water to pass through are best suited for making concrete. In addition to the floor, the walls of the cellar can also be made of concrete; they can also be built of red brick. Sand-lime brick cannot be used in basement construction.

If the cellar was built earlier, but needs waterproofing, you can dig out the walls almost to the foundation and build a blind area and a clay castle around them.

Waterproofing walls

After the walls are erected, the external insulation of the cellar from moisture is carried out as follows:

1. Plastering external and inner sides cement mortar, in which the percentage ratio of cement and water is 1:
2. 2 layers of rolled waterproofing are glued to the surface of the walls.
3. WITH outside construction, a pressure wall is erected, which can be constructed using red bricks. Its purpose is to support and protect against destruction of rolled waterproofing.
4. Creating a clay castle with a slight slope to the sides. It must be connected to the previously laid layer of clay at the bottom of the pit, be at a distance of at least 50 cm from the walls, and have a thickness of 10 cm. To give density to the castle, wooden blocks are used.

Important! Thanks to clay castle The pressure wall is protected from the effects of groundwater.

5. Soil is poured into the resulting void between the castle and the walls. A blind area is created from clay and crushed stone on the ground surface with a slight slope in the direction opposite to the building.
6. The part of the walls that rises above the soil level is covered with coating-type waterproofing.

Indoor insulation

First of all, all existing joints at the boundary between the floor and walls are treated with bitumen mastic. Concrete structures that are newly created and not completely cured are lubricated with penetrating type insulating materials. If the cellar was built a long time ago, mastic is simply applied to them.

After treatment with bitumen mastic, plaster is applied, for which it is used cement mixture. If there are cracks in the walls for the construction of which blocks or bricks were used, apply waterproofing mastic 2 cm layer. They cover her coating mastic having a light texture. This will give a uniform shade to the walls. Then plastering is done using a cement mixture.

The walls can be made rigid by attaching a frame made of reinforcement, onto which 3 or 4 cm thick plaster is applied. The high-quality preservation of food in the cellar is facilitated by the application of biologically stable coatings.

Waterproofing materials

1. Penetrating materials
They allow you to block the flow of moisture through small capillaries in concrete. It consists of a cement mixture, substances that are chemically active and fine sand. The plasticity of the structure and fine grain size contribute to deep penetration into the thickness of the surface (up to 10 cm) with subsequent crystallization in it. Occupying the capillaries, the crystals prevent the flow of water through them.

An additional advantage of using materials of this type is that concrete is more resistant to low temperatures, prevents the growth of bacteria, and lacks toxic components.
Penetrating materials include Hydrotex, whose penetration depth is 10 cm, and Penetron, which can penetrate 20 cm inside the wall.

Important! These types of insulating materials are applied only to the wet concrete surface and are very effective in increasing the concrete's ability to withstand the effects of groundwater.

2. Painting materials
Materials of this type include bitumen, polymer, bitumen-polymer and polymer-cement mixture. They are applied in three or more layers, the thickness of which ranges from 2 to 6 mm. The inclusion of polymers, such as latex, in the mixture improves the properties of the materials. Nairite-containing mastic (BNM) is used for low temperatures, applied in a layer of 4 mm.

Containing epoxy resins materials have less ductility and may shrink. Epoxy-tar mastic is more durable, it practically does not shrink and does not combine with the ice that forms outside when severe frosts. Epoxy insulation containing furan has some toxicity even though it is applied in small layers.

The disadvantage of materials containing epoxy resins is considered to be excessive rigidity, but their advantages include the possibility of use for both external and internal waterproofing, ease of application and low cost.

3. Pasting materials
They have been the most popular for many years. These include roofing felt, roofing felt and other materials in rolls. They are laid on the floor on a layer of mortar before pouring the concrete screed. Except roll types can be used polymer materials in sheets. Typically, materials are laid in three layers, between which polymer primers are used as an adhesive composition - for materials made from polymers, molten bitumen - respectively, for materials containing bitumen.

4. Impregnating materials
Applied to the floor of a wood cellar prepared for cladding ceramic tiles, laying linoleum. These are waterproofing mixtures that contain substances with astringent qualities - bitumen, polymer-based varnish.

5. Cast type waterproofing
This is one of the most reliable methods of waterproofing. A structure in the form of a fence is installed above the surface of the cellar. The resulting space is filled with mastics or other special solutions. After they harden, a continuous waterproofing surface is obtained. According to the temperature values ​​of the poured mass, cold, hot and asphalt-polymer types of cast waterproofing are divided.

When creating waterproofing, it is necessary to take into account that all its types, excluding roll, must have a continuous surface. Special attention should be given to seams and joints on the surface. In a cellar room that has a well-functioning ventilation system, waterproofing is more effective.

Waterproofing the cellar helps protect against high humidity not only the cellar itself, but the entire house. This increases its service life and allows you to create an optimal microclimate in it. Methods of waterproofing, type of material and method of its application and combination with other types are selected based on the characteristics of the structure and existing conditions.

In order to have food from the garden in all seasons, a brick vegetable pit is built for storing and preserving the harvest. It is easy to design it yourself by first selecting right place, developing a construction scheme and checking the soil. The storage should not be too wide. During construction, it is important to remember about waterproofing, ventilation, and insulation.

Preparation

It is possible to create a vegetable pit with your own hands, the effectiveness of which in preserving food has already been proven over the years. Initially, the soil and construction site are checked for the absence of utilities:

• electrical cable;
• pipes;
• gas pipelines.

It is important to determine the depth of groundwater. Acceptable level- 2 cellars down from the bottom of the structure, so as not to flood the cellar. Optimal width pits - 2.5 meters, depth - 1.7 meters. If there are walls near the structure, then the cellar should be built no closer than 60 cm from their location in order to effectively install the necessary waterproofing on next stages construction. Preparatory work are indicated in the format of a drawing or diagram, making a strict calculation of the area.

To go down to the cellar you need a strong wooden ladder.

The vegetable storage plan is initially developed on paper, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and nearby buildings. Even with independent work It is important to remember about the insulation of the cellar, the ventilation system and protection from moisture. Internal structure The vegetable pit is designed to suit the individual preferences of the owner and the types of products that will be convenient to store there. To go down to the cellar, it is better to use a wooden ladder with strong rungs. You can also build a pit under a garage or basement.

The walls of the vegetable pit must be sealed and dry.

Stages of building a brick vegetable pit with your own hands

After appropriate determination of the optimal location and direct digging, the most critical stage of work begins. It includes:

• construction of a pit;
• bricklaying;
• ventilation;
• insulation.

To insulate the room, you can use polystyrene foam.

Waterproofing a vegetable pit depends on the level of groundwater. At great depth It is advisable to equip a circular drainage. Proper thermal insulation protects vegetables from temperature changes and keeps them from rotting. To achieve this, the walls are insulated on both sides. It is better to choose moisture-resistant slab insulation (expanded polystyrene).

Construction of a pit

He digs according to the dimensions specified in the project. Next, the bottom of the pit is covered with crushed stone, 10 cm thick and compacted. A layer of sand 15 cm thick is poured on top, followed by compaction of the pillow. Only after this the bottom is filled with bitumen or another similar composition. At capital construction A waterproofing material - roofing felt - is installed in the sand. Acceptable use wooden planks. Then after that the reinforcement is made and poured with concrete.

Waterproofing vegetable pit

Quite often, unfortunately, the problems of waterproofing and hydraulic concrete are remembered only after the building or structure has already been constructed. For almost all structures made of concrete, or simply put, protecting everything built from concrete from water penetration is, to put it mildly, a hot topic. The task of waterproofing vegetable pits is very important, because rotten potatoes and spoiled preparations will probably delight you in winter.

Typical problems of vegetable storage:

• water enters the room through cracks in the wall and technological seams.
• cracks in the concrete bottom.
• There are areas with local destruction of concrete.
• water seeps through the thickness of the wall

Simple and effective method waterproofing your vegetable pit - using the KT Tron material system.

The main advantages of KT Tron waterproofing:

• high quality waterproofing coating;
• simplicity and speed of coating application;
• possibility of application on wet surface;
• durability;

Waterproofing vegetable pit

Stage 1. Surface preparation
Remove loose concrete mechanically(using a jackhammer, hammer drill or machine high pressure(AED) type KARCHER).
Clean the concrete surface using a brush with metal bristles from dust, dirt, cement laitance, tile adhesive, paint and other materials that prevent the penetration of active chemical components into the concrete.
Along the entire length of cracks, seams, joints, junctions and around the entrance of communications, make configuration fines " dovetail» depth 30 and outer width 20 mm. With severely damaged concrete, the size of the fine increases.
Clean the scratches with a brush with metal bristles, a high pressure brush.
If reinforcement is exposed, remove sufficient concrete behind the reinforcing bars until they are completely clear. Remove rust mechanically or chemically(to bare metal) and apply an anti-corrosion coating (mineral, epoxy or zinc) before using the material “KT Tron-3 (repair)” or “KT Tron-4 (quick repair)”

Stage 2. Waterproofing of structural elements

a) Elimination of active leaks:

b) Waterproofing seams, joints, cracks.
Moisten the groove thoroughly.
Prepare a solution of the KT Tron-2 material.
Fill the hole tightly with it (with a hole 20 X 30 mm, material consumption 1.35 kg/m.p.)

The KT Tron-2 material has a penetrating effect, so the grooves under it do not require pre-treatment with penetrating compounds, which distinguishes the KT Tron line of materials from other brands.

Stage 3. Application of waterproofing coating

Waterproofing concrete with a penetrating compound:
Thoroughly moisten the concrete surface.
Prepare a solution of waterproofing material “KT Tron-1”, apply it in two layers with a synthetic fiber brush.
Apply the first layer to damp concrete with a brush, applying strokes in one direction (without smearing).
Before applying the second layer, moisten the surface. Apply the second layer on a fresh, but already set first layer. It is recommended to apply the layers in perpendicular directions.
Calculation of material for two-layer application according to smooth surface 0.8 kg/m2, on rough – 1.0 kg/m2.

Stage 4. Surface care

It is necessary to ensure that the surfaces treated with waterproofing materials of the KT Tron system remain wet for 3 days, that cracking and peeling of the coating should not be observed, and that the temperature regime is maintained.

To moisten treated surfaces when waterproofing vegetable pits, the following methods are usually used: water spray, covering concrete surface plastic film.

Today, many car owners prefer to care for their vehicles and carry out repairs themselves. If you are one of them, then you need own garage, in which there will be special devices. This can be called inspection hole .

Its construction only seems simple at first. In fact, the work must be carried out in accordance with accepted building regulations. The recess must be made strictly according to size. The inspection hole is made so that it is light and dry. Groundwater protection holes in the garage is a priority for the car owner.

What to do if groundwater is located high?

Pit in the garage when there is one groundwater , may cause problems. Proximity to such waters often causes constant dampness in the garage. Mold appears on the walls, cracks appear on the floor and walls. When the water rises, the building may be flooded.

There is another problem. It is as follows. When you make a viewing hole, it may be observed temperature difference. It will be colder in the recess.

IMPORTANT! With absence high-quality waterproofing foundations and garage pits, cold air will rise. As it rises, it will cover the bottom of the car with condensation, which may cause rust. In addition, the room will be stuffy and humid.

There are two reliable ways to solve the question: “How to make a hole in the garage if groundwater is close?” The first is based on careful waterproofing device. The second assumes removal of the pit away from the car parking lot. You can choose any option, but it is recommended to cover the structure with boards of suitable size. Pre-wrap them with plastic wrap.

How to fall asleep?

If you decide that inspection hole you no longer need it, then you can fall asleep. This will require sand and gravel. Place sand at the bottom of the hole, then add gravel. No need to use land! You can also clay fill a hole in the garage.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of an inspection hole in a garage

When constructing an object

Do waterproofing you can do it on your own, without turning to specialists. Do primary protection as follows:

1. Before starting the concreting process, pour gravel onto the bottom; its layer should be 15 cm.
2. After this, add 5 cm of sand. The pillow needs to be compacted, the layers will perfectly remove moisture.
3. It is recommended to lubricate earthen walls with greasy clay before applying waterproofing material. Red is best suited for this purpose.

Available for sale different materials, which are excellent for protecting the recess. Bituminous materials Manufacturers produce it in the form of rolls. Cover the shelves and niches that are in the recess with material. Divide the roll into fragments; you need to lubricate all parts with special solvents in advance.

Lay the material so that the sheets overlap by at least 10 cm. Pay attention to joints. To glue them together, you need to use a torch, or cover the joints with molten bitumen. Some car owners use for this purpose solvent.

Polymer membranes. They are laid overlapping on the frame and used for reinforcement. metal grid. Cover the entire surface of the pit with material. The membranes are connected by welding. A hot air stream can be used. Since the method is based on the use of welding equipment, it is better to entrust such work to specialists.

Penetrating materials. Buy special mixture, mix with water. The solution should be applied to a slightly damp surface of the inspection hole. After crystallization, the pores in the concrete are reliably sealed.

Liquid rubber. Apply the material to a damp surface. This method is suitable if the temperature environment is in the range from + 10 to + 24. After finishing spraying, wait a few hours.

Waterproofing during the construction of a garage must be done in a complex, it must be internal and external. It is important to correctly determine pit depth.

When making calculations, be sure to take into account how thick the preparatory layer will be. The height of the ceiling of the pit is also important.

Dig a pit, taking into account the indentations. Make them wide at least 1 meter. Level the bottom of the pit, making a slight slope towards the walls from the center. Make a water seal from clay and lay it. The layer should be at least 10 cm, compact the base.

To drain water from the object, do drainage trenches. Their depth must be at least 0.5 m. Do not forget that the trenches must be made with a slope. Lay on the bottom geotextiles, position it so that it protrudes a meter beyond the edges of the trench.

Place a 5 cm layer of gravel on the geotextile. Buy drainage pipes and place them in the trenches. Make a slope of 50 cm by 1 linear meter. To install drainage pipes, buy asbestos-cement products, or polymer or ceramic pipes. They need to be taken to the place where there will be collect water. Cover the pipes with a 30 cm thick layer of gravel. Wrap the “pie” with a geotextile sheet protruding above the trench.

Fill the pit with crushed stone and sand. Alternate layers, tamping each of them. Sand is needed for waterproofing protection, because it can be broken through by the sharp edges of large factions. Place on the base roofing felt, be sure to weld its edges using gas burner. Coat with bitumen mastic. Repeat the procedure, laying the material in 3 layers. If groundwater can rise above the pit, then you need to make even more layers.

Prepare the formwork, pour concrete floor. Use those mixtures that contain modifying additives.

Watch the video on how to waterproof a hole in a garage with your own hands:

If the garage with a pit has already been built

If the facility is in operation, but there is a need for protecting the inspection pit from groundwater, then you can do the following:

1. Coat the floor with thick mastic, cover the walls with a thinner one.
2. Then make a mortar from cement and plaster the walls. All joints must be covered with mastic, applying it in a thick layer.

If you want to make the coating more rigid, apply plaster to the frame made of reinforcement. The layer thickness can be 4 cm. If necessary, apply an antiseptic composition to the plaster. It is best to use at work waterproof, not ordinary cement.

Penetrating protection is safe and will prevent garage flooding. The mixture must be applied to wet concrete, so the capillaries will be closed with crystals. You can use this method to protect even old surfaces.

Before treatment, clean all floors and walls from dirt, remove stains. This will open up the pores. The composition is best applied in layers; use a spatula to work. You can use in hard to reach places brush. Above waterproofing cover with cement plaster. Suitable for repairing cracks special composition for injection. Manufacturers offer a number of polyurethane-based materials.

By following the rules, you can easily figure out how to do inspection hole in the garage if groundwater is nearby. This will get you pretty good save money.

Essential: Anything made of concrete tends to let water through. Only structures made of special concrete - very expensive and rarely used - do not require additional waterproofing. Common premises - cellars, garages, vegetable pits, etc. - made from ordinary concrete. Therefore, in the absence of proper waterproofing of a cellar or vegetable pit, in the spring these rooms are flooded, in the fall water gushes like a fountain from the seams and joints, in the summer moisture oozes through the thickness of the walls.

And in such a situation, nothing helps - neither roofing felt, nor caisson, nor special plaster mixtures etc., since they are usually used internally.

In this case, the waterproofing material resists water pressure not by pressing, but by tearing. If the owner took care of the waterproofing of the cellar or vegetable pit in advance and glued/plastered the walls on the outside, then the material resists water more successfully. But the water pressed a little more or a small hole appeared in the coating, and all efforts to protect it from water become futile.

Moreover, such a coating is difficult to repair: it is difficult to find the location of the leak, because water can come out tens of meters from the point where the waterproofing layer is broken. It is difficult to waterproof a flooded cellar, because most materials are used on a dry surface. Not to mention the problems that repairmen face when working with damaged external waterproofing.

Finally, in winter time or during rain it is impossible to carry out waterproofing repair work on the outside. It is more logical to use the following for waterproofing a vegetable pit or cellar: Construction Materials, dry building mixtures, which do not create a coating on concrete. Such waterproofing cannot be destroyed because it becomes part of the concrete structure, and does not need to be repaired because it lasts as long as the concrete itself. Such waterproofing materials can be used inside or outside the room. There is no need to dry the surface before applying waterproofing. Moreover, the surface should be thoroughly moistened.

For them there is no problem of resistance to water pressure - it presses against water from the outside or from the inside, for such waterproofing materials indifferent.

Such waterproofing becomes part of the concrete, a single concrete whole. This is not impregnation, not plaster, not sheet material. These materials are called “penetrating waterproofing”. How does the material work? Penetrating waterproofing is a dry mixture with special properties. The mixture is diluted with water and a thin layer of 1-2 mm is applied with a brush to the damp concrete surface.

It doesn’t matter whether it’s from the inside or outside of the structure: the waterproofing components react with the components of concrete and begin to penetrate deep into the walls or floor through capillaries and microcracks to a depth of 90 centimeters. As it moves, the capillaries of the concrete are blocked by insoluble crystals. Crystalline formations of waterproofing become part of the concrete. These crystals, while blocking access to water, do not interfere with the movement of steam - the design “breathes”. The higher the moisture content of concrete, the more successful and goes faster reaction between the components of the mixture and concrete and the formation of crystals. Formed on the surface of concrete thin layer serves only to secure and temporarily hold on concrete those very active chemical components that play the main role in waterproofing a structure. After some time, this layer can simply be removed.

It is reliable, simple and An economical way to waterproof a vegetable pit. Concrete treated with a penetrating mixture can withstand water pressure of 20 atmospheres. By using mixtures for waterproofing a vegetable pit or other structure, the owner saves significantly on materials (when calculating the processing of one square meter surface), on time and labor costs (one person can easily cope with, for example, waterproofing a garage during the day, without knowing anything about technology and materials).

And most importantly, waterproofing a vegetable pit is done once and for the entire service life of the structure (at least fifty years). The mixtures are certified for use in contact with drinking water. In particular, they are used not only for waterproofing vegetable pits and cellars, but also for waterproofing concrete pools, treatment facilities and so on.

Vegetable storage waterproofing schemes

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