Partition between the steam room and the relaxation room. How to make a partition in a bath: materials and construction technologies Partition in a bath between the steam room and the sink

Building a bathhouse with your own hands requires thoughtful and calibrated actions. The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink is extremely important.

To build it, it is necessary to correctly distribute the space in the bathhouse and select the right materials. In general, the construction procedure is simple, but you will need to carefully follow the recommendations.

This article will discuss various types of partitions and materials that were used in their construction.

Why do you need a partition?

The partition can also have a decorative character, becoming a design element

This structure is extremely important for a bathhouse. It has the following advantages:

attractive appearance;
high strength;
good level of sound insulation.

In addition, the partition will provide in the steam room high temperature and comfort.

If there is no need for high thermal insulation, you can build a more simplified building. Below you can see a diagram of a bathhouse with a partition.

What is the partition made of? The choice of material is extremely important stage construction. The following options can be used:

tree;
brick;
concrete.

A brick partition is placed in the bathhouse if a metal stove is installed in it. For doubles optimal solution wooden structures will become.

Partition for a wooden bath

It is advisable to make wooden partitions in a wooden bath

Such buildings are built from various types wood Their assembly is carried out using the frame-panel method.

Experts do not recommend erecting brick partitions in a wooden bathhouse. Especially if the combustion will be carried out rarely. Since the thermal conductivity of wood and brick varies greatly, it will take a lot of time to heat the building, especially in the cold season.

It is better to make a partition between the steam room and the sink from different materials. If a similar material is used, but with a smaller connection, difficulties may arise in installing the connecting nodes.

The optimal solution for constructing an internal partition in a bathhouse would be to install a frame system.

Frame partition

The holes between the frame bars are filled with insulation

A frame partition in a bathhouse is best suited for wooden buildings. To build it, you will first need to assemble a frame from dried wooden blocks.

Their dimensions are 50 by 50 mm. The hole between the bars is closed with a heat insulator.

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

basalt wool;
foam board.

Protect the insulation from moisture with a layer of polyethylene

To protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture penetration, it is covered with a polyethylene film. Also a good solution would be to cover waterproofing membrane, although its cost is significantly higher than polyethylene.

The use of decorative stone cladding is highly discouraged. Wooden constructions inside the bathhouse in mandatory will need to be treated with an antiseptic. This will prevent the formation of mold and mildew on the walls.

Construction of a brick partition

The brick partition is laid with spoon masonry

How to make partitions in a brick bath? This material is quite common and is often used for the construction of buildings in the bathhouse.

The construction is made using half-brick spoon masonry.

To make work easier, some specialists use hollow material.

Preparatory procedures

Before starting work, you need to carefully prepare the surface. The plank covering is removed from the floor to the very base, after which it is cleaned with a wet broom. The place where the construction will be carried out is equipped with good lighting. All foreign objects are removed from the premises and the outlines of the building are outlined.

To work you will need to prepare the following tools:

level;
sander;
trowel;
plumb line and rule;
cement-sand mortar. For more information about the construction of a partition, watch this video:

Creating a partition

The first row of bricks is laid on several layers of mortar

The process of erecting a brick partition consists of the following stages:

A string is stretched and used as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled using a trowel. The level checks horizontality. You will need to wait until the solution begins to dry.
Another layer is applied on top of the dried mixture. After which the first row of brick screed is laid.
The mortar is applied to the end of the first brick, after which it is laid by pressing down. It is tapped and leveled according to the string; the remaining mixture will need to be removed immediately before it has time to dry.
If an opening for a door is planned in the partition, it will need to be positioned first. The door frame is installed using spacers. The evenness of its location is checked and, if necessary, this parameter is adjusted.
The brick is laid close to the box. To tie the partition together, special metal strips are used; they are folded and attached to the side surfaces between the bricks. Instead of strips, you can also use reinforcing rods.
After laying the first row is completed, the brick is divided into 2 parts with a pick. One half is used to start the second row. The string that served as a guide is moved higher so that you can easily navigate. Laying the third row is carried out in the same way as the first. For more information about the process, watch this video:

Tying the masonry is an extremely important stage of construction, which will evenly distribute the load on the structure and significantly increase its strength.

Building any kind of partition between the steam room and the sink is a rather labor-intensive procedure.

Not every beginner will be able to do this kind of work on their own.

But, as a result, this will ensure a high level of comfort in the bathhouse, therefore Lately the construction of such elements became popular.

Since the steam room and the sink perform completely different missions, special attention should be paid to how to make partitions in the room.

First of all, you need to decide on the material from which the intermediate wall will be built, be it wood, brick or foam block.

The choice of material for the partition depends on the style in which the entire bath room is made and what type of heating is used in it.

If the main material used in the construction of the bathhouse is wood, then a partition should be built from it.

To perform this work, you will need beams up to five centimeters thick, with a cross-section of at least 5x5 centimeters.

This will provide good insulation of moisture and heat, and not just a screen that blocks visibility into the neighboring one.

To make a wooden partition with your own hands, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions:

First of all, you need to take measurements and mark on the surface of the walls and ceiling, using straight lines, where the middle of the partition is located.
Then the main frame is made from the beams. Unite wooden boards in the structure, and it is better to attach them to the walls using spikes and a drill. If this is not possible, regular wood screws or nails without heads will also work. Between the bars you need to leave about eighty centimeters of free space.
Wooden boards are attached to the manufactured frame. For this, the same ones are used as for making the frame - self-tapping screws or nails without heads (another option is wooden lining).
Sheathing with boards should be done on both sides of the frame. To provide better insulation heat and moisture, you can fill the empty space of the partition with mineral wool. Thanks to it, the dressing room will be a cool room, and the steam room will retain valuable heat.

To build a partition in a bathhouse, it is better to use deciduous trees, such as aspen or linden. Before use, they must be treated with special antiseptic agents.

The most important thing in constructing a wooden partition is to assemble the frame correctly. The stability and functionality of the entire structure depends on how smooth and proportional the frame frame is.

To make the partition more stable and durable, at the very beginning of its construction you can make a small concrete threshold, reaching no more than fifteen centimeters in height and twelve centimeters in width. If you make a strong frame and reliably cover it with boards, you can attach hangers to the partition and place towels, bathrobes and others on them.

Brick partition

If you want to make a partition from brick, you can use the laying of whole material or the spoon method of placing blocks (0.5 bricks).

To prevent the wall from being too heavy, you can use hollow bricks.

However, it must be resistant to high temperatures and high humidity.

Therefore, in the construction of a bathhouse and partitions in it, it is better to use red bricks rather than silicate bricks.

How to make partitions in a bathhouse is explained in the following step-by-step instructions:

First, if the floor is covered with planks, they must be removed to reach the foundation. The entire surface on which work will be carried out must be cleared of excess items and swept with a damp broom.
The room is prepared for work - good lighting is provided, working tools are prepared.
The contours of the partitions are outlined.
The solution is mixed. To do this, you need to use a sieve, a grinder, a shovel and a mixing container. The mixing ratio is 3:1 (for example, three buckets of sand and one bucket). Water should be added until the mixture reaches a creamy consistency. To avoid premature hardening of the solution, it should be stirred regularly, but no more water should be added.
The partition is erected using a level, a pick, a trowel, a plumb line and a rule. To make the wall even, you should stretch the string. First, two layers of mortar are applied to the floor, and then you can begin to lay out the brick. You need to start working from . To make the structure more durable and firmly connected to the main walls, during masonry you need to use strips of metal or reinforcement rods.
The second row should start with a half brick. And the third - from the whole, and so alternate them constantly.

In the case where a brick wall plays an integral role in maintaining the interior of the room, it should be laid out carefully, always removing excess mortar in time to prevent it from drying out. But when the wall finishing completely covers the brick base, you don’t have to worry too much about the appearance of the seams between the rows and individual blocks.

When you plan to apply a layer of plaster to a brick partition, even used ones can be used for construction, which will significantly save money.

If the partition has doors, their frame should be installed before bricklaying begins.

Foam block partition

One of the generally accepted options for making partitions in a bath between the steam room and the sink is to lay it out of a foam block.

Advantages of using foam blocks:

They have much less weight than bricks.
Foam blocks are made in large sizes, thanks to which the laying of walls using them progresses very quickly.
This material has a fairly low cost.

In order for the construction of a partition from foam blocks to be successful, it is advisable to take into account a few more valuable tips:

When purchasing foam blocks, you should pay special attention to their surface. If it is even and smooth, the finishing will go faster and will be done with better quality.
Calculating the size of the blocks depends entirely on the type of room in which they will be used. When constructing a partition in a bathhouse, it is better to use light and less wide blocks. In this case, the density of this material does not matter.
Blocks obtained by cutting are considered to be of higher quality. This manufacturing technology is now more developed and progressive.
To make the masonry more dense, it is better to moisten the blocks with water before starting it.
In order for the partition to be strong and durable, it should not have continuous vertical seams. To do this, blocks or bricks should be shifted in each new row.
At the top of the structure, between last row foam block and, it is better to leave an opening up to ten centimeters wide. At the end of the work, it should be closed using polyurethane foam.

In many ways, the choice of material for the partition depends on the heating method in the bathhouse.

If it is a brick oven, then it must be supplemented with a wall made of the same material.

If the bathhouse is heated with an iron stove, then a wooden structure is also perfect.

But in this case, it must be located at a distance of more than ten centimeters from the heating center.

A standard log bathhouse (five-walled) consists of two rooms: a steam room and a washing room. It has 4 load-bearing walls and one partition. There are also larger buildings, it all depends on the financial capabilities and requirements of the owner. But in any case, the initially installed bathhouse frame can be partitioned at your discretion, increasing or decreasing the area.

The only question is, from what material and how to make the partitions?

This is what the frame of a wooden partition between the washing compartment and the steam room looks like.

Partition in a brick bath

The simplest option is to install a frame partition inside a brick bathhouse. Let's consider the option of distinguishing between the washing compartment and the steam room. First, a frame made of dried and treated wood is assembled locally. A thermal insulation layer of penoplex or mineral wool is placed inside. It is better to additionally protect it from moisture with plastic film or a foil membrane used specifically for these purposes.

Afterwards, the partition is finished according to the internal wall cladding. On the steam room side there is a lining that matches the overall design, and the washing compartment is also finished accordingly. If the wall is to be plastered, first fill a layer unedged boards, then a reinforcing mesh is fixed over it, after which the corresponding work is carried out.

The lining for finishing the steam room must correspond to the overall design. The material is dried and preferably from one batch. Mount it with clamps or small nails in hidden places. In the washing department, the plaster is applied in several layers; after the latter has dried, the tiles can be laid.

This is a partition option if the redevelopment began after the construction of the bathhouse. You can do it another way, and even at the time of designing the bathhouse, differentiate interior spaces, having thought through the layout of all rooms. According to the type of foundation chosen, in addition to pouring it under load-bearing walls, it is also laid in places where partitions pass. After the construction of the bathhouse, they can be made of brick without bothering with assembling the frame and insulating it. But this option is more expensive, so for small baths made of brick, you can make prefabricated partitions.

A brick partition separating the stove from the dressing room.

Advantages of internal frame walls

This option for partitions has its supporters and haters. Some say it's like dressing cabbage. On the one hand, this is true. But on the other hand, relatively quickly and inexpensively you get a warm and reliable partition. After all, pouring a foundation is more expensive. And what to do if you suddenly decide to re-plan the location interior walls? Break the foundation?

This is the only possible option for partitioning technical rooms in a bathhouse, such as a toilet or rest room. Using frame structures, you can separate the dressing room from the rest room or make a separate room for installing an installation block, from which the electrical wiring will go to the bathhouse. We can safely note the relevance and demand for frame partitions in all types of baths.

Waterproofing frame partitions with membrane film. It is laid on both sides.

Partition made of timber or logs

In this way, bath spaces are demarcated only in structures made of the appropriate material, and their location is worked out at the stage of building the bath. They lay it together with the crowns of the load-bearing walls, making a dressing. Under the internal partitions of a bathhouse made of timber, a foundation is required. They won't last long when weighed down.

The use of partitions of this type is in demand in several cases: firstly, in a large bathhouse it is necessary, not only to divide the room, but also as additional support for the floors. This is kind of another load-bearing wall. Secondly, the five-wall log house assembly method will allow you to connect the structure with an internal partition. And thirdly, to create general interior. Do you agree that in a bathhouse made of timber, a brick wall will look ridiculous?

A brick partition separating the oven from the washing compartment with an installed tank for hot water.

When is the best time to use brick?

Brick partitions are applicable in any bathhouses lined with similar material. The width is selected at your discretion, but given that this is a non-residential premises and sound insulation is not particularly needed, masonry with one stone is sufficient. More attention is paid here to the quality of the masonry mixture. It must correspond to indicators that are resistant to moisture. Partition connection with load-bearing wall produced by reinforcement. Every 4–5 rows, reinforcement is driven in and then the masonry is carried out in accordance with all the rules.

Brick partitions are often used in wooden baths. This is acceptable when the stove is heated from the dressing room, and it needs to be lined with stone in order to create maximum fire safety conditions without compromising the temperature reduction. In order not to interfere with general decor, the partition is placed from decorative stone, and in some cases it is combined with a heater stove. Thus, the wall will also heat the dressing room.

Partial partitioning of the furnace with bricks is also often practiced. By the way, work on installing partitions is carried out only after the bath has completely shrunk, regardless of what material it is made of.

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates rooms that are so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made from bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of one material or another depends, first of all, on what the bathhouse itself is built from. If this is a log or frame structure, then it is better to use wood so as not to violate the overall concept, but for a brick bathhouse, brick is more suitable.

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)

In addition, the type of heating device located in the steam room is also important. If we are talking about a traditional brick oven, then it itself is a partition. In this case, you just need to add it until a full wall is formed. In the case of an iron stove (this option is preferable), the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be either frame or made of ordinary boards.

In the photo - a brick oven and a brick partition

On a note! For a brick partition, it is recommended to use red brick, not silicate brick (the fact is that the latter is unburnt, which is why it is characterized by rather low thermal insulation and moisture resistance).

The design described below is wooden frame, lined with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.

Design features

Design features	Photo
The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, the height of which will be 10 cm and the width – 12.5 cm. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay tiles along it after the work is completed, which will isolate the tree from water.
This threshold can be constructed both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), or directly during installation, by constructing formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be coated deep primer and betocontact (for example, produced by the Knauf company).
The base will be attached to the curb using anchors (1.6 cm). The outermost posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hexagonal screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the posts themselves be oval and longitudinal - this way the frame will not be an obstacle to the settlement of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole.
The upper horizontal beam of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, expansion or settlement of the log house when exposed to atmospheric phenomena will be compensated. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from floor to ceiling.
For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. The dimensions of the individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to the standard dimensions of insulation boards. The cotton wool should be covered on both sides with plastic film and secured with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.
The lining will be secured with clamps to a sheathing made of 2.5x5 cm planks. The sheathing itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed to the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room, the lower beam of the sheathing is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and secured only to the vertical supports.
After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First, you need to install the skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are covered with platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves).
The platband at the top of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it moves with it without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material.
Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To “hide” the screw heads, stepped holes should be made in advance in appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size.

Stage one. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1.IN opposite walls grooves are marked and cut out using a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific ceiling height, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 2. Next, you need to install formwork to create a base for the structure, taking into account the doorway (94 cm). If the sink floor is covered with concrete, then the formwork should be installed along the edge of the screed.

Step 3.The surface of the floor in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and deep primer. To make the connection more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer in dowels there and screw in the screws ½ way.

Step 4.After this, the formwork must be filled with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it needs to be covered with roofing felt in two layers.

Stage two. Frame construction

Step 1.The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks need to be installed on the curb, marked and similar holes made there.

Step 2.The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.

Step 3.Next, the supporting frame of the structure is constructed. To do this, the outer racks (their dimensions are 6x10x235 cm) are installed on the base and secured with hexagonal screws. A washer is placed under each screw.

Step 4.An opening is made for the door frame - they are placed vertical racks, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance on each side is 1 cm larger than the dimensions of the frame.

Step 5.Using wood screws, the frame jumper is attached.

On a note! At this stage, special attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design turns out.

Prices for wood screws

wood screws

Stage three. Thermal insulation. Installation of sheathing

Step 1.Mineral wool mats must be placed in the cells. If necessary, the material is trimmed using a mounting knife.

Step 2.It is attached to it on both sides of the frame polyethylene film(this needs to be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.

Step 3.The sheathing is installed at intervals of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed at the stage of assembling the frame - this will simultaneously solve the problem of its fixation in the lower part of the structure.

Stage four. Door frame

Step 1. If the opening size is 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking verticality/horizontalness and fixing the frame to the racks, all gaps formed must be blown out polyurethane foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off using a mounting knife.

Step 2.Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), the open elements of the opening are blocked from the sink with planed boards 60x30 mm. In this case, special attention is paid to the fact that the vertical plane that runs along the outer edges of the boards must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.

Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles

Finishing can be done both after installation of the lining and before it. It is important that the joint between the forcing and the end of the tile is carried out with extreme precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage six. Cladding

Installation of the lining starts from the corner and is carried out using the “tenon and groove” technology. This means that the tenon of each subsequent sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the sheathing is done using iron clamps.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without heads (to avoid accidental burns) or with ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closing with pins.

Prices for lining

Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Final finishing of the edges of the structure

Step 1.For the platbands, the same lining that was used for finishing is suitable. Using a circular saw, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned manual router(a radius cutter is used). The vertical casing joins the horizontal one strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 2.The baseboards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is plank) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).

Step 3. Along the edges of the structure, vertical-type platbands must be inserted into the grooves of the walls, and then attached to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the screws are hidden with wooden pins.

Step 4.The planks installed at the top of the structure will only perform decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

On the picture - ceiling plinth in the steam room

The described option is suitable for a bathhouse that has already been settled and stood for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case the dimensions of the log house itself change. If complete settlement has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

Ordinary boards can be used as cladding. Both they and the lining should be made only from hardwood, since coniferous wood releases resin at high temperatures. We also note that all beams in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.

Platband prices

platbands

The partition in the bathhouse between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use ½-brick spoon masonry (or, alternatively, a whole brick). Such a structure will weigh quite a lot, so to lighten it, you can use hollow bricks.

Stage one. Preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all working surfaces. The plank covering is removed from the floor all the way to the foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further workplace equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed for work are removed from the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage two. Solution

To work you will need the following equipment:

sieve;
Sander;
shovel;
mixing tank.

Step 1.First you need to sift the sand to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine mesh chain-link mesh and 4 beams. The sand is carefully sifted.

Step 3.Mixing proportions – 3:1. First, you should fill in six buckets of sand and two of cement. Water is added and the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4. The solution is mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but there is no need to add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.

Stage three. Construction

For this stage you need the following tools:

level;
pick;
trowel;
plumb line;
rule.

Step, No.	Description	Illustration
Step 1.	The string is stretched - it will serve as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, and the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a little for the solution to set.
Step 2.	Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins.
Step 3.	The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled with twine, and excess mortar is immediately removed.
Step 4.	If a doorway is planned (and most partitions have one), then it needs to be set in advance. Using spacers, install door frame. It is checked for horizontal/verticality and, if necessary, its position is adjusted.
Step 5.	The brick is laid close to the box. To attach a partition to it or to wooden walls metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; You can also use reinforcing bars.
Step 6.	At the end of laying row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts using a pick. The second row begins with one of these halves. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first.

On a note! Dressing the masonry is prerequisite. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be more durable.

Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and auxiliary reinforcement can be used for the door frame (ideally, this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks previously soaked in concrete. The pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - Laying a partition of ½ brick

Foam blocks (made of gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, with insignificant (compared to brick) weight, they have a O larger sizes, which means the laying will be carried out much faster.

Standard blocks have a height of 300 mm and a length of 600 mm. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned to be installed, but in most cases, products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.

The masonry procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.

Prices for foam blocks

foam blocks

Stage one. Marking

First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markings, the first row of blocks is laid out “dry”, and if necessary, trimming is done. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a stone saw. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.

In place of the future structure, waterproofing (roofing felt is suitable) is placed in two layers.

Stage two. Installation

For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The glue must be mixed with an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. Adhesive composition applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, verticality/horizontalness is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ the width of the product to make the partition more durable.

Where the partition meets the main walls, it is tied with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, and reinforcement with glue is inserted there to a depth of at least 50 mm. You can make recesses in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out from the walls.

On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the rods must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.

Stage three. Plaster

For plastering, you can use the same adhesive solution that was used for laying. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. After plastering is completed, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.

Plaster prices

plaster

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a partition made of foam blocks can be built directly on wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.

When purchasing blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces are, the better the finishing will be.
The dimensions of the blocks depend on the installation location, while the density does not play any role.
It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
The blocks of each new row must be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
It is advisable to leave a small gap (about 100 mm) between the partition and the ceiling, which must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks

Most often for self-built partitions use materials such as:

brick;
bars;
wooden boards.

All these materials have their advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at some of them. Advantages of a brick partition in a bathhouse:

strength and long service life;
environmentally friendly material;
not susceptible to rotting;
high thermal insulation.

Disadvantages of brick partitions:

the material is very heat-intensive, which is why it takes much longer to heat up than, for example, wood;
a brick partition will cost much more labor and money than a wooden partition, as well as a higher consumption of mortar;
brick partitions are very heavy and create additional load on the foundation;
low vapor conductivity.

Advantages of a partition made of timber in a bathhouse:

environmentally friendly material;
timber partitions are very easy to install; they do not require specialized knowledge and skills;
minor damage can be repaired independently;
has a low cost compared to brick.

Disadvantages of timber partitions:

poor sound insulation;
afraid of moisture;
fragility;
susceptibility to combustion;
susceptibility to rotting, due to which all parts of the structure have to be treated with appropriate impregnations.

Partition in a bathhouse made of beams and boards

Tools and materials required for work:

For the construction of the partition, edged boards 40-50 mm thick and 10-20 cm wide are used. You should not take thicker and wider ones, because they may warp. Most suitable are tongue and groove boards, which will provide the structure with rigidity and the absence of cracks;
beams with a section of 4x4 cm;
wood spikes with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm;
fasteners;
drill and drill bits;
electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
plumb line;
hammer.

The partition is performed as follows:

The boards are connected to each other using round tenons from 8 to 12 mm in diameter. They are placed in 1 m increments, starting from the height of the boards. Instead of spikes, nails without heads 6-8 cm in length can be used.
On the wall in those places where the partition will be adjacent, stripes are beaten in the vertical direction, using a string and a plumb line. The same stripes must be drawn on the ceiling and on the support.
Beams with a cross-section of 4x4 cm are nailed to the strips so that they form grooves. The width of the grooves should be equal to the width of the boards used. It is necessary that one of the beams does not reach the wall by 20-30 cm, thanks to this it will be possible to freely insert the partition into the groove of the board.
Each board is inserted into its own groove and moved towards the wall, adjacent to the previously installed ones. At the bottom of the already installed partition, plinths are nailed on both sides. To caulk small cracks between the partition and the wall, use tow soaked in gypsum.

Double partitions are made in the same way: they build two walls in the manner described above, leaving a distance of 4 cm between them, and then fill it with insulation.

There is also a second option for making a wooden partition in a bathhouse, for this you need:

mount the partition frame structure using wooden beams and secure it between the walls;
lay insulation inside the frame and waterproofing on top of it;
Cover the frame with clapboard on both sides, having previously constructed a sheathing.

Brick partition in the bathhouse

Let's consider the process using the example of separating a steam room from a relaxation room. Before you start laying a brick partition, you should try on the stove, because... if later something doesn’t turn out quite right, the wall will have to be torn down. The stove must be centered and the axes of the chimney pipe must be checked in the place where it will be located. Further actions must be performed in the following order:

1. First of all, markings are done. It is better that for greater convenience, the brick partition is 780 mm wide. In this case, 250 mm bricks will be laid with the least amount of waste, and they will have to be cut to a minimum. Exactly three bricks will fit into the wall.

2. To reduce the loss of time and effort running from the building for bricks and back, you should count how many rows you get and how many bricks they will take, as well as the quantity and size of each workpiece. Once the quantity is known, you just need to cut it all at once.

3. It is better to round off the resulting cuts by grinding.

4. So that, if necessary, the stove can be easily pulled out of its place, the size of the window for inserting the combustion channel must be one centimeter larger on all sides than the size of the combustion channel itself.

5. For additional ventilation, it is better to leave a small window in the lower part of the wall, which will be obscured by something during procedures in the bathhouse.

6. For masonry, prepare a heat-resistant mortar according to the instructions. To ensure that the structure being built is strong and does not collapse after some time, the following measures must be taken:

Attach strips to the casing, the width of which coincides with the width of the wall, cut from fire-resistant plasterboard. They, adhering to the mortar, will not allow the wall to tilt relative to the opening;
reinforcing nails are driven into the pier at different levels of the brickwork, directly through the drywall, which will serve as hooks for the masonry.

7. To ensure that all the seams of the partition are the same and look aesthetically pleasing, either crosses or spacers made from improvised material, such as wood chips of the same diameter, are laid between the rows. It is better to place them so that under each brick there are two pieces on both sides.

8. After the wall is laid out and the mortar has hardened, you need to sand the seams with a wire brush.

9. It is better to cover the sides of the erected partition in the bathhouse adjacent to the wooden wall with platbands.

The correct “fifth wall” - everything about the partition in the bathhouse

Quite often it turns out that the first step is to build the bathhouse box, and only then install the partitions between the rooms. Any bathhouse has at least two rooms. In this case, a five-wall log house is constructed: four common walls and one partition.

For modern people, a classic bathhouse consisting of two or three rooms is no longer enough; today such buildings are being built with six or more rooms. Thus, there is a need to arrange not one, but several partitions at once.

In order to correctly install partitions in the bathhouse, you should take into account the general style of the design. You also need to take into account the material of the load-bearing walls, because to arrange a partition in a brick bathhouse, it is logical to use brick, and for wooden buildings- frame or timber materials.

Of course, the materials used for the general frame of the building may be different from the material of the walls, but it is worth remembering to preserve the general style of the bathhouse building.

What to make between the steam room and the sink

Before you build partitions in the bathhouse, you should decide on the footage of the future premises and choose what to make it from.

Important! The more people you plan to receive in the bathhouse, the more spacious the rooms in it should be made.

After this, you need to decide where it is best to place the doorways, as well as determine the amount of materials required.

What is the best material to make bath partitions from:

Transformers are presented in the form of sliding, folding, sliding structures or screens;
Stationary partitions are made of brick, glass or wood.

The type of enclosing structures should be determined based on the requirements put forward for them. For example, in order to permanently separate rooms while providing high-quality insulation, stationary partitions are constructed. In other cases, the installation of partitions in the bathhouse can be limited to the installation of collapsible structures.

Transformable partitions are perfect when you need to separate the changing area from the rest room.

Due to the fact that in most cases, bathhouse owners choose stationary partitions, let us examine their advantages and disadvantages in more detail.

DIY frame

In order to arrange frame partition in the bathhouse, you should familiarize yourself with its distinctive qualities and the information given below.

The structure described below is a wooden frame with mineral wool insulation and clapboard sheathing.

In preparation for the construction of a partition, the walls and floors of the room should be carefully treated: cleaned of paint, dirt, remnants of building materials and leveled.

In addition, it is necessary to arrange the formwork for the base of the structure. Bring the necessary materials, then get rid of construction waste.

After all this, we are ready and ready to proceed directly to installation.

How to make it in wood: installing a frame

Before proceeding with the installation of the frame, it is necessary to cut out the blanks for its base.

After this you can start working:

Make holes in the blanks. Install them on the curb and make holes in the curb so that they coincide with the holes in the workpiece;
Secure the workpieces;
To construct the supporting frame, it is necessary to mount the outer posts on the base and secure them with screws;
In order to create an opening for installing a door frame, it is necessary to install the racks in a vertical position. It is important to note that the clearance on each side must be at least 1 cm larger than the frame;
The frame jumper is secured to wood using self-tapping screws.

Arrangement of sheathing and insulation layer

Mineral wool slabs are placed in the empty cells of the frame;
They must be covered on both sides with a waterproofing film, which can be secured with a stapler;
The sheathing is installed with a step width of 40-45 cm.

Installation of the frame in the doorway

It is necessary to install the frame in the doorway so that there is a gap of 1 cm on all sides;
After installation, it is necessary to check the horizontal and vertical position of the frame. Treat all resulting gaps with polyurethane foam;
Elements of the opening open to the washing room must be covered with planed boards.

Cladding walls with clapboard

Information. The walls are covered with clapboard using the tongue-and-groove system.

This means that the tenon of the next blade is fixed into the groove of the previous one. The lining is fastened with nails without heads in order to avoid burns in the future.

Brick

A brick partition in a wooden bathhouse is much less common than in a brick bathhouse.

They are usually built in brick and block bathhouses.

Quite often they make a brick partition in a wooden bathhouse with their own hands if it is necessary to cover the stove, which is located in the dressing room.

This is done due to the fact that the wall here must be as fire-resistant as possible and able to withstand high temperatures.

Important! It is very important to note that the partition in the bathhouse made of facing bricks is erected only after the frame has shrinked!

This can be explained by the fact that after a few years wooden sauna will shrink by five or even ten centimeters, and the brick wall will remain in place.

Attention! Maximum attention should be paid to quality cement mortar, since the reliability and service life of the partition being built depends on it.

Also, the disadvantages of a brick partition in a wooden bathhouse include the fact that brick heats up many times slower than wood, which is why it is better to build wooden partitions in wooden bathhouses. The wall with the stove in this case is an exception.

Brick has a number of advantages, which include:

Good soundproofing;
Moisture resistance, which means the formation of fungus and mold is unlikely;
Fire resistance;
Brick is completely unattractive to pests.

Let's not forget about the shortcomings. These include:

Heavy weight of the partition;
The complexity and duration of work on arranging a partition in a brick bathhouse with your own hands;
Before finishing a brick partition, it is mandatory to plaster it.

How to make bricks correctly

The process of constructing a brick wall is as follows:

Before building partitions in the bathhouse, you need to prepare the room. That's all for this extra items it is removed, brighter lighting is installed, and materials are prepared. It is also necessary to remove from walls and floors wood covering, clean surfaces with a damp broom;
On each of the components of the bath box, the contours of the future partition are marked;
The prepared sand is sifted and mixed with dry cement in a ratio of 3:1. Next, water is poured into the resulting mixture until the solution becomes homogeneous and plastic. You need to decide what brick to make the partition in the bathhouse from;
In order for the partition in a brick bath to be laid evenly, it is necessary to stretch a tape along its edges. You should also periodically check verticality using a plumb line;
The door frame is pre-installed in the opening. It is lined closely with brick;
It is necessary to carry out masonry with dressing of seams. To do this, every second row must be started by laying half a brick;
Near the ceiling, small cracks and holes can be sealed with tow;
If a partition is installed in the bathhouse between the steam room and the sink, then on the washroom side the brick should be protected with ceramic tiles in order to avoid the material getting wet and causing rapid wear.

Insulation

Regardless of the adjacent room, the insulation of the partition in the bathhouse must be protected on both sides.

The vapor barrier film covers the side where the room temperature is higher, and a waterproofing layer is attached to the other side.

These conditions are mandatory if you want to maintain the thermal insulation properties of the insulation for a long time.

Many people wonder how to insulate a partition in a bathhouse, the answer to which is completely simple - the material must be environmentally friendly and fireproof. Mineral or basalt wool works well.

Attention! In order to ensure additional protection from heat loss, it is necessary to cover the insulation with foil material. In this case, you will not have to make a thicker heat-insulating layer, and the insulating properties of the bath will improve significantly.

Installing walls in a bathhouse is a rather complicated matter. The partition between the steam room and the wash room needs to be given more attention, because it separates rooms that are so different in their functionality. In the process of choosing materials for its construction, you should rely on what the bathhouse itself is made of.

You should also take care of high-quality hydro, heat and vapor insulation, as this will reduce heat loss and protect the partition materials from premature destruction.

A specialist will help you in creating the project. It is recommended to contact a specialized company in order to avoid mistakes and failures directly during the construction process.

Manufacturing of frame partition

The structure described below is a wooden frame covered with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.

Manufacturing of frame partition Frame partition

Design features

Design features	Photo
The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, the height of which will be 10 cm and the width – 12.5 cm. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay tiles along it after the work is completed, which will isolate the tree from water.	The border is shown in the diagram
This threshold can be constructed both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), or directly during installation, by constructing formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be covered with a deep primer and concrete contact (for example, produced by the Knauf company).	Betonkontakt
The base will be attached to the curb using anchors (1.6 cm). The outermost posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hexagonal screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the posts themselves be oval and longitudinal - this way the frame will not be an obstacle to the settlement of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole.	Mounting diagram
The upper horizontal beam of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, expansion or settlement of the log house when exposed to atmospheric phenomena will be compensated. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from floor to ceiling.	Location of the upper beam of the partition
For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. The dimensions of the individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to the standard dimensions of insulation boards. The cotton wool should be covered on both sides with plastic film and secured with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.	Thermal insulation - mineral wool
The lining will be secured with clamps to a sheathing made of 2.5x5 cm planks. The sheathing itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed to the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room, the lower beam of the sheathing is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and secured only to the vertical supports.	The principle of fastening the lining
After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First, you need to install the skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are covered with platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves).	The final touch - wooden skirting boards
The platband at the top of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it moves with it without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material.	The photo shows a gap that needs to be sealed with mineral wool.
Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To “hide” the screw heads, stepped holes should be made in advance in appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size.	Fasteners for wooden elements

Stage one. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Scheme of preparatory work

Step 1. In the opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut out using a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific ceiling height, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 3. The floor surface in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and deep primer. To make the connection more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer in dowels there and screw in the screws ½ way.

Step 4. After this, the formwork must be filled with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it needs to be covered with roofing felt in two layers.

Poured foundation in formwork Poured foundation with already disassembled formwork

Stage two. Frame construction

Step 1. Making the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks need to be installed on the curb, marked and similar holes made there.

Frame diagram

Step 2. The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.

Installation of a frame partition Bar fastening option Frame partition with laid communications

Step 4. An opening is made for the door frame - vertical posts are installed, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance on each side is 1 cm larger than the dimensions of the frame.

Step 5. Using wood screws, the frame jumper is attached.

Installation diagram of frame jumpers

On a note! At this stage, special attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design turns out.

Frame partitions

Stage three. Thermal insulation. Installation of sheathing

Step 1. You need to lay mineral wool mats in the cells. If necessary, the material is trimmed using a mounting knife.

Lathing installation diagram

Step 2. A plastic film is attached to it on both sides of the frame (this must be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.

Mineral wool mats must be placed in the cells

Step 3. The sheathing is installed following a step of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed at the stage of assembling the frame - this will simultaneously solve the problem of its fixation in the lower part of the structure.

Stage four. Door frame

Door frame

Step 1. If the opening size is 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking the vertical/horizontal position and fixing the frame to the racks, all gaps formed must be filled with foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off using a mounting knife.

Step 2. Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), the open elements of the opening are blocked from the sink with planed boards 60x30 mm. In this case, special attention is paid to the fact that the vertical plane that runs along the outer edges of the boards must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.

Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles

Finishing the sink with tiles

Stage six. Cladding

Fastening sheathing boards to the partition frame

Fastening the lining

Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Final finishing of the edges of the structure

Step 1. For the platbands, the same lining that was used for finishing is suitable. Using a circular saw, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned with a hand router (a radius cutter is used). The vertical casing joins the horizontal one strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.

Final finishing

Corner cutting Scheme for trimming the inner corner strip of the ceiling plinth

Step 2. The baseboards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is plank) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).

Skirting boards in the steam room

Step 3. Along the edges of the structure, vertical platbands must be inserted into the grooves of the walls, and then attached to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the screws are hidden with wooden pins.

Platbands for baths

Step 4. The planks installed at the top of the structure will serve only a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

In the photo - ceiling plinth in the steam room

Making a brick partition

Stage one. Preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all working surfaces. The plank covering is removed from the floor all the way to the foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Next, the workplace is equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed for work are removed from the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage two. Solution

To work you will need the following equipment:

sieve;
Sander;
shovel;
mixing tank.

Tools for work

Step 1. First you need to sift the sand to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine mesh chain-link mesh and 4 beams. The sand is carefully sifted.

Step 3. Mixing proportions – 3:1. First, you should fill in six buckets of sand and two of cement. Water is added and the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4. The solution is mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but there is no need to add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.

Stage three. Construction

For this stage you need the following tools:

level;
pick;
trowel;
plumb line;
rule.

Step, No.	Description	Illustration
Step 1.	The string is stretched - it will serve as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, and the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a little for the solution to set.	First row - diagram
Step 2.	Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins.	Second row
Step 3.	The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled with twine, and excess mortar is immediately removed.	Bricklaying
Step 4.	If a doorway is planned (and most partitions have one), then it needs to be set in advance. Using spacers, you should install the door frame. It is checked for horizontal/verticality and, if necessary, its position is adjusted.	Laying a brick partition
Step 5.	The brick is laid close to the box. To tie the partition to it or to wooden walls, metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; You can also use reinforcing bars.	Door frame
Step 6.	At the end of laying row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts using a pick. The second row begins with one of these halves. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first.	Laying brick partitions

On a note! Bandaging the masonry is a prerequisite. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be more durable.

Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and auxiliary reinforcement can be used for the door frame (ideally, this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks previously soaked in concrete. The pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - Laying a partition of ½ brick

Making partitions from foam blocks

Foam blocks (made from aerated or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, despite their low weight (compared to bricks), they are large in size, which means that masonry will be carried out much faster.

Partition foam blocks

Interior partitions made of foam blocks

The masonry procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.

Masonry procedure

Stage one. Marking

Block cutting

In place of the future structure, waterproofing (roofing felt is suitable) is placed in two layers.

Stage two. Installation

For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The glue must be mixed with an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. The adhesive composition is applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, verticality/horizontalness is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ the width of the product to make the partition more durable.

Block laying

On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the rods must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.

Partition made of blocks

Partition installation

Partitions made of foam blocks

Stage three. Plaster

Plastering blocks

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a partition made of foam blocks can be built directly on a wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.

When purchasing blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces are, the better the finishing will be.
The dimensions of the blocks depend on the installation location, while the density does not play any role.
It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
The blocks of each new row must be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
It is advisable to leave a small gap (about 100 mm) between the partition and the ceiling, which must be filled with polyurethane foam.

The need and features of constructing a partition

The partition is functional and decorative element any bath. This design has the following advantages:

aesthetic appearance;
strength, wear resistance and durability;
high sound absorption rates;
ease of installation;
availability of materials for construction.

Choice suitable method The construction of the wall is determined by the design features of the bathhouse. In brick buildings, it is logical to build partitions from brick, in wooden baths - frame or timber.

The partition between the steam room and the dressing room has two main openings: a door and one for heating equipment.

Internal bath partitions are constructed from cinder blocks, brick, plaster, concrete and wood. They have a double or single design. To increase the thermal insulation characteristics when installing the structure, a technological gap is provided for installing insulating and waterproofing material.

Important! Installation of the structure should be carried out before finishing flooring, observing fire safety rules.

Construction of a frame partition

A frame partition is the best option for ready-made baths built from logs. Installation includes pre-assembly wooden frame made of beams or boards with a section of 5 × 5 cm.

For thermal insulation of the structure, a foam board, basalt or mineral wool is used.

Technology for constructing a frame partition with your own hands:

Markings are made on the surfaces of walls and ceilings using a plumb line, cord or building level. Vertical straight lines are marked to indicate the middle of the structure.
A wooden frame is assembled. Individual elements are fixed to the walls using tenons; holes for the tenons are drilled electric drill. To simplify the process, you can use self-tapping screws for a wooden base or nails without heads. The bars are fixed at a distance of 80 cm from each other.
Boards or lining are mounted to the finished frame using nails without heads. Cladding is performed on both sides of the frame to increase heat and soundproofing characteristics designs. The distance between the sides of the sheathing is filled with the selected insulation.

Important! The wood material for constructing the frame is pre-treated with antiseptics to prevent possible rotting and destruction. For decorative cladding It is worth using lining made of hardwood.

Construction of a brick partition

A brick partition is relevant for brick and stone baths. To obtain a lightweight structure, hollow bricks can be used for masonry.

The process of bricklaying the wall is carried out step by step:

Marking is carried out to determine the boundary for the future partition.
Preparation of materials and working tools. Kneaded masonry mortar cement-based (M 400 or 500), construction sand with the addition of water. First they mix bulk materials with gradual introduction of water. The proportions of the components are 1: 3 (for 1 part cement 3 parts sand).
A string is pulled along the drawn line to maintain an even plane of order. The laying starts from the wall, a small part of the cement mortar is applied to the base of the floor and the first row of bricks is laid. To increase the strength of the structure, metal strips and reinforcement are used in the process.
The first row is treated with a connecting solution, on which the next row is laid.
All rows of the structure are laid in a similar manner. A wide metal strip or reinforcing rod along the entire length is installed above the doorway, after which the brickwork continues to the ceiling.

Decorative finishing of a brick wall is done with plaster after the masonry mortar has completely dried.

Construction of partitions from foam blocks

In a brick bath, the partition between the steam room and the relaxation room can be made of foam blocks - a material that is more accessible to install and use.

The significant advantages of the blocks are:

low weight compared to brick;
large dimensions, thanks to which the construction of the structure is completed faster;
convenience and ease of installation;
low cost.

The technology for installing the material is similar to brickwork and involves the following stages of work:

The preparatory stage is carried out in the same way as in the previous version. Carrying out the necessary markings, fixing the cord to determine the contours of the future structure.
Dry laying of the initial block row. If necessary, the blocks can be cut with a grinder or a hacksaw to obtain the required width.
To connect individual elements, a special adhesive solution for foam blocks is used, prepared according to the instructions.
The adhesive mixture is applied evenly thin layer, after which the foam blocks are installed in a row. For additional structural strength and reliable connection to the walls, reinforcing rods or nails up to 6 cm long are used. They are installed in holes previously prepared in the wall.
After the partition has been erected to the upper level of the doorway, several reinforcing bars are installed above it along its entire length as a base, after which the blocks are laid up to the ceiling.

The same adhesive mixture is suitable for plastering foam blocks. After drying, the wall is primed and puttied. A coloring composition or ceramic tile.

Features of glass partition

In a wooden bathhouse, glass partitions can be installed, which are durable, aesthetic and functional. Such designs provide heat maintenance, are durable, easy to install and operate.

The walls are erected near the stove due to the fact that they are made of high-strength tempered glass. This material is resistant to deformation, overheating and mechanical damage.

The following types of glass partitions are used in the steam room:

stationary;
compartment;
radius;
hanging;
folding;
transforming.

Compared to traditional partitions, glass structures are heavier and require a supporting frame. When constructing partitions, various surface design techniques are used: laser engraving, photo printing, stenciling, sandblasting and stained glass applique.

Glass structures have the following advantages:

aesthetics and attractiveness;
resistance to temperature changes and high humidity;
long service life;
fire safety and environmental friendliness of the material;
the possibility of visual zoning of premises;
variety of styles and colors;
ease of installation.

A serious disadvantage of glass products is the formation of condensation in conditions of high humidity. It is especially destructive for the retractable mechanisms with which the frame is equipped.

To protect against high humidity, it is recommended to use silicone-based impregnating compounds. The high cost of manufacturing the partition is also considered a significant disadvantage, which is compensated by the quality and durability of the structure.

The construction of various partitions in a bathhouse made of logs, bricks or foam blocks is a serious and labor-intensive process, requiring technical knowledge and skills. But subject to careful study of the information on how to make a partition, even a novice master will be able to correctly perform installation work.

Features and Functions

The protective partition in the bathhouse near the stove is universal subject. Modern manufacturers of such equipment offer many options for barrier screens. New products will suit any needs and different budgets.

The partition plays an important role because it performs the following functions:

eliminates the possibility of burns;
used as additional room decor;
Using a protective partition, you can control the flow of heat not only into the steam room, but throughout the entire house.

Brick baths are in great demand. This material has a fairly low thermal conductivity, so brick walls heat up much more slowly. But this property does not make the brick walls in the bathhouse completely safe - here it is also necessary to protect the bathhouse walls from the heat of the stove. Wood is used as the most popular material for building a bathhouse. High temperatures increase the risk of fire.

The use of barrier screens in wooden baths is becoming a prerequisite.

What materials can be used to create a protective partition?

The enclosure of the stove in the bathhouse is designed to reduce the effects of heat. Brick or metal are used to make it. Each material has its own advantages and is used depending on specific conditions.

Metal partitions

Steel or cast iron are more often used. To ensure maximum effect, the device must be installed at a distance of 2 cm from the stove. Manufacturers of furnaces and boilers often complete their products with protective partitions. Depending on the purpose, they can be lateral or frontal.

The use of heat-resistant screens allows the stove surface temperature to be reduced to 100°C, due to which the zone of intense heat exposure is reduced by 50 cm. Installing a metal partition yourself is not difficult.

Brick screens

The brick partition is a kind of casing. It completely covers metal surfaces to protect the walls from heat. In some cases, brick screens are used as partitions between walls.

Characteristics of a brick partition

To install the screen, just take an ordinary red brick and lay it with mortar. The thickness is half a brick. In some cases, you can use a quarter brick.

Instructions for creating different types of protection from oven heat

A fence for a stove in a steam room made of a sheet of metal will be the most effective and simple solution for a home bath. It is better to use a polished panel, since a smooth, shiny surface is much more reflective. This property also means that heat will not accumulate in the metal, but will spread throughout the room.

The metal fence for the stove in the steam room must be attached to the brickwork or directly to the floor using special fasteners or components. The process will not take much time, but you will completely protect your vacation.

It is necessary to leave a distance between the floor and the metal that will allow air to circulate freely.

The brick partition is laid in half a brick. Here it is also necessary to leave a gap between the floor and the first row. Most often it is made in the form of a door. With its help you can regulate the degree of heat accumulation in the oven.

Start laying from the bottom row, and gradually rise to the height of the stove. The level of the screen should be 15–20 cm higher than the stove. Many experts recommend making such a partition all the way to the ceiling.

Fire resistant structures

A special heat-resistant cladding is used as protection for the walls. To do this, the fire-resistant cladding is covered with heat-resistant tiles. Non-flammable glue is used for its installation. The following facing materials have good fire-resistant qualities:

terracotta tiles;
tiles;
porcelain stoneware;
soapstone and so on.

In addition, fire-resistant plasterboard, mineralite, glass-magnesium sheet and other fire-resistant boards for a bathhouse can be used as fire-resistant protection for walls. It must be taken into account that for each type it is necessary to provide ventilation in the form of a gap at the bottom. Practice shows that the use of cladding as heat-resistant protection for walls in a bathhouse has almost the same thermal characteristics as reflective cladding. The only drawback is the cost, which is several times higher than standard options.

Protecting the walls of the bathhouse from the heat of the stove requires a careful approach and choice necessary materials. Modern manufacturers already offer ready-made solutions in the form of metal protective screens that are easy to install and use. Brickwork also has high thermal insulation characteristics, so it is also popular.

There are several ways to build a partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink, for example, making it massive and thick to save heat and reduce energy consumption. In other schemes, it is proposed, on the contrary, to make the partition thin in order to warm up the washing compartment, thereby increasing the level of comfort in the room.

What is the benefit of a properly assembled partition?

It’s another matter if the bathhouse building is built in a dacha or 20-30 m from the main residence. In this case, the problem of equipping partitions in the bathhouse is somewhat more complicated.

Therefore, in order to decide how to make partitions in a bathhouse with your own hands, you should count all the options and choose the right one, which will help you save firewood and, if possible, preserve the wooden building of the bathhouse:

If the size of the sauna and bathhouse is small, then a removable partition is often placed inside the steam room, separating the steam room from tanks with a supply of water for washing and closets with clothes. After completing the bath procedures, the frame of the partition in the bath is removed with your own hands, and the small space of the steam room is used as a washing compartment. The heat of the stove is enough to wash in the warmth and thoroughly dry the bath;
The second method is used for classic wooden log baths size 3x5 m or more. In this option, a frame or even brick partition with a minimal amount of thermal insulation is most often used;
The third option involves solid thermal insulation of the partition; it is used in timber, log and brick bathhouses with two stoves and a boiler for hot water.

The first option is used quite rarely; most often these are small bathhouses converted from wooden cabins. To raise the temperature in the steam room and reduce heat loss, the partition in the steam room is made with your own hands in the form of a curtain made of foamed polyethylene foil or ordinary tarpaulin.

The last version of the wall with good insulating properties is considered the most reliable and simplest to install. Therefore, an insulated partition in a brick bathhouse is always built with your own hands if the design of the steam room turns out to be large, but it is not possible to install a full-fledged “hurricane” stove. In this case, the joint part of the wall between the sink and the sauna should be built of brick with mandatory insulation surfaces from the sauna side.

What does using a thin wall give?

Building a thin, heat-conducting partition between the steam room and the sink is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. The difficulty is that, before making a wooden partition in the bathhouse, you need to accurately calculate the thickness of the insulation. If you make it thin, you can cool down the steam room. In case of using thick, reinforced mineral fiber thermal insulation, the washing room may turn out damp and cold. Partitions in a bathhouse made of boards without thermal insulation are used mainly in dacha options steam rooms

In winter, the small thickness of the wall ensures high-quality and quick heating of the walls and floor of the washing compartment, especially in cases where the walls and floor of the shower are tiled. In summer, too much heat comes from the thin partition, so you have to make special vents through which excess heat is removed.

Advice! If you don’t have the necessary experience and knowledge on how to make partitions in a bathhouse with your own hands, choose the third option for wall cladding with enhanced thermal insulation.

The result is a very warm and economical steam room, and the walls of the washing compartment can be dried with a special ventilation system, when a hot stream of air flows from the sauna through the cracks in the deck floor into the shower room. It turns out a little more complicated, but the steam room and washing compartment will dry completely in any weather.

How to make a frame partition in a bathhouse

The dividing wall between the steam room and the washing compartment can be made in two ways. The most affordable option is to build frame partitions in the bathhouse with your own hands with a compensating upper gap. A small gap is required to compensate for the loads that occur during heating and cooling of the bathhouse.

The second option is called a floating partition. Its essence lies in the fact that the structure is installed between two rooms on movable fasteners. As a result of increased humidity or temperature, the partition frame has the ability to move in the vertical direction without breaking the screws and fixing keys.

The choice of which partition to make in the bathhouse depends on the material from which the bathhouse box is built. The first method is used for buildings made of SIP panels, bricks, foam blocks, and profiled timber. The second option is used for wooden buildings. If the bathhouse is assembled from timber, then before you make a floating partition in the bathhouse yourself, it is better to check the amount of shrinkage of the room. If the process of setting up the crowns is completed, then you can choose a simpler stationary installation scheme for the wall.

Building a floating partition

The main idea of the unusual wall design is to install a partition without a rigid connection to the walls, ceiling and floor. Installation of the wall begins already at the final stage of bathhouse construction, when the concrete screed floor.

First of all, two concrete sills are laid on the floor; they will also act as a barrier so that water does not leave the washing compartment.

Along the contour of the grooves and the cut-out draft, side strips are sewn, which will hold the structure, seal the gaps between the walls and ceiling and at the same time serve as guides for the frame partition.

On the sides and at the bottom the frame frame is attached to wooden base threshold and guides using metal corners with a cut groove. Any expansion of the frame or its settlement will not lead to a break in the structure between the steam room and the washing compartment.

All that remains is to lay a vapor barrier, insulate the structure with mineral mats and cover the surface with linden clapboard.

Assembling a partition in a bathhouse made of timber

Making a wall separating the steam room and the washing compartment is considered the most difficult to do with your own hands. Most of the work has to be done at the stage of wall construction.

First of all, you will need to provide a support jumper on the foundation. If you use a shallow concrete strip, you will need to fill in the contour of the future steam room; for pile and columnar foundations, additional jumpers made of timber or channel are used.

A threshold made of treated timber is placed on the lintel, which will serve as the basis for the entire wall. The same threshold will serve as a supporting joist beam for future wooden floors.

If the wall between the steam compartment and the sink is long enough, then it is assembled by cutting, as is done when laying out crowns from logs or timber. This method is used in situations where the partitions in the bathhouse, photo, are made without doorways or brick inserts with a stove.

In this case, the partition in the bathhouse is built with a small gap between the upper crown and the ceiling, this is done for two reasons:

Compensate for the expansion of timber or log crowns under the influence of heat and moisture;
Ensure influx warm air from the steam room to the washing department.

Assembled from timber common wall do not insulate, tighten vapor barrier film and stuffed with clapboard.

If there is a doorway, timber wall, as in the case of frame partitions, are made according to a floating scheme. To do this, a cut is made on the adjacent walls to lay out the wall parts, and the door frame is secured in the opening to the ends of the logs or beams using self-tapping screws through the mounting grooves.

Brick wall between the steam room and the bathhouse

Using brick to build a dividing wall inside a log bathhouse looks rather strange, but in practice such a solution is considered competent and effective. Brick partition in a wooden bathhouse, as opposed to a frame structure:

Does not rot or become damp from condensation;
Can be used to move the back wall of the heater inside the sink;
It perfectly transfers and distributes heat from the stove installed inside the steam room throughout the entire space of the shower room.

For your information! The latter quality turns out to be so valuable and convenient that the surface of the common wall on the side of the steam room is not covered with thermal insulation, but is lined with natural stone.

The only disadvantages of a brick partition in a bathhouse are its high heat capacity and the weight of the wall. This solution is ideal for a home bath and is not suitable for a steam room in a country house or suburban area. In winter, it will be quite difficult to quickly heat such a steam room.

The brickwork in the bathhouse is made of half a stone, that is, the cross-section of the wall does not exceed 12 cm. The construction of the future brick wall should be planned before laying the floors. If the base of the wall between the steam room and the sink cannot be installed on an independent foundation, then you will need to make a jumper between two powerful joists and reinforce them with crossbars and brick supports. Only in this case will the wooden structure withstand the weight of the masonry of several hundred kilograms.

To make the wall more stable, before starting work, a galvanized frame is assembled metal profile. This will help to level, lay and hold brick wall from tilting until the masonry mortar finally sets.

On the side of the steam room, the brick is covered with lathing, foil and thermal insulation are laid. If lining is sewn onto the surface of the common wall on the side of the washing compartment, then a vapor barrier can be omitted.

A dividing partition in a bathhouse, despite its simplicity, can seriously affect the characteristics of the steam room, the efficiency of the stove and the durability of the entire building. It is not difficult to make a dividing wall, even a floating one, but you will need good command of carpentry tools and knowledge of the basics of assembling wooden log houses and bathhouses.

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Description of frame partitions for baths

If we are talking about what kind of partition in a brick bathhouse can be used, then the most popular option would be a frame internal wall. Its frame is assembled from well-dried wooden beams dimensions 5x5 centimeters (standard). In the voids between the elements of such a structure is laid thermal insulation material. Typically, mineral wool or foam boards are used as insulation.

We must not forget that the insulation must be reliably protected from moisture. To do this, it is carefully covered with polyethylene. You can also use special membranes with waterproofing properties, which in their characteristics are several steps ahead of polyethylene, but their cost is corresponding.

After the frame is insulated, it is necessary to cover it using dried boards with a thickness of 2 centimeters. A foil layer is fixed on top of these boards. You can use a construction stapler when working. Foil is the determining layer in the matter of thermal energy conservation. To be more precise, it will redirect thermal radiation inside the bath. Penofol and a number of other materials that can be used instead of foil have a similar effect.

The last stage of work is decorative finishing frame partition. Traditionally, lining is used for these purposes. The most comfortable conditions in a bathhouse can be created by finishing it with aspen or linden lining. This choice in favor of deciduous trees is quite natural, because they do not release resin when heated.

For installation of the lining, slats are packed in the form of a standard sheathing. All wooden elements frame structure must be processed using antiseptics. Without this condition, it is simply impossible to hope that wood will last long under the influence of moisture. If you do not take care of the optimal protection of wood, then soon fungus and mold will appear on it.

Structurally, such a partition is a cake made of building materials, which from the outside looks aesthetically pleasing in the photo and upon visual inspection.

Distinctive features of the frame partition:

increased strength;
high level of sound insulation.

As practice shows, a frame partition provides high temperature in the bathhouse and maximum comfort for visitors. If a partition is installed between the steam room and the sink, then the thermal insulation materials must be of the highest quality and should be installed sparingly. By creating partitions between the steam room and technical rooms, you can install a simpler structure.

The design is simplified due to the fact that it is assembled from boards with a thickness of 4 centimeters or well-dried bars. The frame is covered with clapboard, and each gap is insulated using penoplex, which ensures the highest level of thermal insulation.

Rules for thermal insulation of partitions

When creating partitions in a bathhouse with your own hands, it is important to take care of preserving the maximum amount of thermal energy inside the room. A competent procedure for thermal insulation of the entire structure will allow you to cope with this.

Brick partitions are most often finished with modern insulation boards using the following fasteners:

fastening strips;
artificial binders.

Typically, the installation of partitions ends with a slight gap remaining, which is filled with mineral wool.

As for how to make partitions in a bathhouse according to frame technology, then you need to take into account a number of nuances. The main one is increased thermal conductivity, which causes low resistance of wood to stress.

Directly inside the bathhouse, the walls are insulated using mineral wool, on which thermal insulation material is additionally laid. For this purpose, jute or reed slabs are usually used. Facing material V in this case multi-colored lining protrudes. The material looks aesthetically pleasing and looks original, both in the photo and during visual inspection.

The insulation itself just needs to be laid very carefully so that there are no gaps or bulges, which will make the surface more airtight. However, even with the most correct installation procedure, it must be taken into account that the bath microclimate will gradually destroy the structure.

Whatever the partition between the steam room and the washing room or other rooms, high humidity will constantly affect it and this effect will be negative. The maximum service life of materials can be increased with proper installation of waterproofing materials. The waterproofing layer is laid before installation finishing materials. Typically, foil or kraft paper is used as a waterproofing material.

Under no circumstances should roofing felt be used in the partition structure. Although this material is a good protection against moisture, when heated, various harmful substances begin to be released from it, which negatively affect the human body.

If you process brick partitions in a bathhouse near the stove, then reflective material must be attached to them, which will be directed towards the room. This will allow more thermal energy to be concentrated in the building. Between the waterproofing layer and finishing cladding The partitions must have a ventilation gap of 15 centimeters thick.

Unique building material – magnesite slabs

Magnesite plate is an excellent material, the use of which in the construction of partitions is due to a number of positive qualities:

fire resistance;
water resistance;
ease of installation work;
low cost.

The production of the material is based on perlite and cellulose. The slabs are mounted on profiles that are fixed vertically. At the ends of the slabs, thermal insulation material is placed in the joints, covered with a waterproofing layer or impregnated with special substances to increase water resistance. Finishing can be done using lining or other finishing materials.

No one forbids creating partitions without laying a middle layer of insulation. Used for this double board. It is important to achieve a total thickness of both rows of the partition of at least 3 centimeters. Thermal insulation functions will be performed air gap between two rows of boards.

Installation is carried out as follows:

a frame is assembled from profiles;
inside it is filled with magnesite plates;
polyethylene or foil material is applied as an additional protective layer;
at the end, the entire structure is covered with clapboard.

If we make the partitions ourselves in the bathhouse near the stove or next to other rooms, we will be able to make sure that all the proposed action algorithms, criteria for choosing materials and practical advice determine the achievement of excellent results.

Also, all stages of the work can be entrusted to specialists who will take responsibility not only for installation, but also for the selection of the necessary materials, as well as the subsequent commissioning of the bathhouse premises.

Brick wall and its insulation

In a brick bathhouse, the partition can be laid out from the base material. But it is necessary to take into account that brick has a fairly high heat capacity and a high heat transfer coefficient. This means that the partition itself inside the bathhouse will be constantly hot (it’s easy to get burned) and the heat loss in the steam room will also be impressive. Therefore, the structure should be insulated as much as possible.

On the steam room side, the partition will need to be sheathed with a vapor barrier, and a material with low thermal conductivity will be laid on top of it. This may be cladding made of hardwood. To secure it, it is recommended to install wooden blocks in the upper and lower parts of the partition.

Laying a brick partition

First, using a hammer drill, make holes in the walls along the line of the intended fastening, then mount the bars, securing them with anchors. The space between them is filled with a heat insulator, on top of which a reflective screen for infrared rays can be placed. It could be foil or special material. After this, we cover the wall with clapboard. Resinous wood ( coniferous species) should not be used in a steam room: when heated and under the influence of humid air, phytoncides begin to be released from it. For an absolutely healthy person, this will only be beneficial, but with the slightest allergy, such a substance can cause an exacerbation of the disease.

It is recommended to finish the part of the wall that borders the sink with any moisture-resistant material. It can be plaster, ceramic tiles, textured or structural plaster or the same wood, impregnated with an antiseptic and coated with several layers of varnish.

Wall in a wooden bath

Modern baths are rarely made of brick: they are increasingly used in construction. natural wood. It's practical and not expensive. In such a bathhouse, you can make a frame-type partition with your own hands using minimal costs and to install it you will need:

wooden blocks;
insulation and vapor barrier;
edged board;
hacksaw;
hammer and nails (finishing);
skirting boards (preferably wooden);
hammer drill and pieces of reinforcement;
roulette;
building level.

Frame partition

First, make markings in the upper and lower parts of the bathhouse, along which the partition will be installed in the future. Make sure that both lines are in the same plane, perpendicular to the floor. You can ideally make markup using laser level, but even the usual plumb line in in capable hands will allow you to do everything accurately. Try to take measurements at several points and different heights. Once you are sure of the accuracy of the markings, you can place wooden blocks along the perimeter along the existing lines, securing them to the walls, ceiling and floor. They are secured on top either with nails or anchors. In the lower part, it is recommended to place it on reinforcement studs, which are pressed into the concrete floor or load-bearing beam.

The part of the partition in the bathhouse from the side of the washing compartment can be immediately sewn up with an edged board. And then you need to fill the space between the wooden walls (the width of the block) with hydro and vapor barrier, insulation. The named materials must be placed in the sequence described above towards the sink. This will ensure their protection from moisture and vapors. Most craftsmen suggest laying hydro and vapor insulators on both sides of the insulation. It will cost more money, but you will have much greater confidence in the durability of the partition in the bathhouse.

Optimal partition design

We will consider a frame partition made of wood as the easiest to manufacture. Metal racks are also used as the basis of the frame partition, but this option is used much less frequently, since the metal is prone to destruction under prolonged exposure to high humidity.

A wooden partition is made quickly enough and does not require large financial and labor costs, in comparison with solid walls made of timber or brick. At the same time, the air space in the voids between the frame elements causes condensation to form at the points of temperature difference between the heated steam room and the colder air inside the partition.

In the diagram, PO is the steam room, MO is the washing department.

An important question when choosing the type of partition is to insulate it or not? Here again we can return to the comparison different types pier. In front of a solid partition made of timber, brick or block, this question does not arise at all. The dense material of such walls itself will sufficiently protect the washing compartment from overheating. At the same time, it does not have high enough thermal insulation properties to prevent heat from leaking into the washing room at all.

To insulate or not?

Regarding the insulation of the frame, it is worth saying that here you should look at the circumstances, taking into account the characteristics of a particular bathhouse. First of all, you need to determine how much the washing room needs to be warmed up. If the bathhouse design has a washing room around the perimeter external walls has good thermal protection or a brick shield or part of the steam room’s brick oven is placed in the wall between the washing room and the steam room, then it is obvious that the washing compartment does not need additional heating.

If there is no need to additionally heat the washing room, thermal insulation can be placed in the frame between it and the steam room. This will make it possible to retain more heat in the steam room, as a result of which it will warm up faster and cool down more slowly. In addition, the use of an insulated partition guarantees protection of the sink from overheating, which often happens in bathhouses that have good thermal insulation external walls of the structure.

In general, insulation is not performed in the partition. The fact is that the insulation in the space between the wet steam room and the wet washing room will inevitably collect moisture. The peculiarity of the heat-protective material made of basalt wool is that on one side it must be able to evaporate moisture from its surface. That is, it will be necessary either on the side of the steam room or on the side of the washing compartment not to protect the wall with a sealed vapor barrier.

In the bathhouse, both the washing room and the steam room have high humidity and in each of these rooms, as a rule, a vapor-proof film is installed to protect the wooden frame from the large amount of moisture in the air of both compartments. If there are mineral wool slabs in the wall, then even if a sealed protection from moisture is created on both sides, they will still collect moisture, and there is nowhere to evaporate it.

The only acceptable option for installing thermal protection in a partition is to make special openings for ventilation with the arrangement of ventilation gaps. The holes are made not in the walls, but at the ends of the frame.

Thus, we can conclude that if sufficient thermal insulation of the washroom from overheating is needed, you should install a solid partition made of timber or thick boards without cracks and free space inside the wall. This design will allow you to isolate the washing room from the active heat coming from the steam room and will not create the danger of excessive condensation.

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