Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.
And I also had to pay the welder, since I myself welding work I can’t do it because of some vision problems.
In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I managed to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.
I’ll immediately make a reservation that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.
Let's start with the rotating mechanism
It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.
As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that Exact size, like mine, you don’t have to follow it at all. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.
A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.
The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.
Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation of the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.
Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.
Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.
But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.
Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and definitely two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.
Our next node will be the rack.
To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. The height of the stand needs to be estimated so that finished form she was just the thing for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.
Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.
When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself on the pipe as evenly as possible, and if you help it a little in this (by eye), then it will turn out quite straight line along the circumference of the pipe, which remains to be drawn, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder.
Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.
Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.
Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally towards the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and your legs rest against it on all four sides.
As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.
After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.
All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.
The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.
The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of installing them is still there.
Stand with rotating mechanism ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide, for the platform. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.
At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.
If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.
But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.
Next will be the counterweight block.
I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.
Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.
That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.
There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.
Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.
All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.
First, the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.
Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.
We buy two simple bearing, in such a way that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and we cut out a seat in the mounting body.
Of course, you can dream up how to secure the bearings in the housing. Besides mine, there are probably a dozen more ways. And I found an ebonite plate, 10 mm thick, from which I made these fasteners.
The boom itself is a beam 150 x 50, 5 meters long. It is inserted into a channel 80 mm wide and 2.5 meters long. True, I had to trim it a little so that it would go inside the channel. I have a channel installed, 3.5 meters long, but this is only because I didn’t have it at hand at the time good timber, with small knots. I simply played it safe, which, unfortunately, increased the weight of the arrow.
The timber is secured to the channel with ties made from a metal strip 3 mm thick.
At the end of the boom, you need to attach a pulley for the cable. Mine is made from a wheel from a trolley bag. For skillful hands, I think there are plenty of options for attaching the pulley. At first it was fastened between two pieces of plywood, but then I made a fastening from a channel.
Now you can assemble the arrow, if not for one “but”. During operation, the brackets with which the shaft is attached to the channel turned out to be rather weak. So I made them stronger.
And one more addition. My reinforcing part is secured with four bolts. You need to add two more on top to make the unit more rigid. Although mine works fine with four bolts. Otherwise I would have added it a long time ago.
Now you can assemble the entire crane platform, that is, install a winch on it, a block for counterweights under the winch, and at the other end - a boom lifting body with a boom. If there is, then a second winch, if not, then a guy rope, like I have.
All this is assembled in a lying position, and upon completion it is raised vertically, onto some kind of support. For example, I stacked several pallets on top of each other and placed the assembled platform on them so that the counterweight hung freely downwards.
Then we attach the rotating mechanism to the stand. The most important thing remains - install the platform on the stand so that the boom and counterweight balance each other.
Unfortunately, I don’t have any photographs of the structure that I built for this, well, I’ll try to explain it this way.
This design is a tripod with a block at the top. The height of the tripod is approximately three meters. It is made from timber 100 x 50. As you probably already guessed, the crane platform, in assembled form, you need to hang it and lift it so that you can put a stand under it.
The platform will be raised using its own winch. To do this, we pass the winch cable through the block and hook it to the boom lifting body, which is located at the opposite end of the platform.
Now, if you operate the winch upward, the entire platform will rise. But during the rise, the arrow, raised up, begins to collapse, so you need to either call a couple of assistants who will fix the arrow in a vertical position, or make another tripod (as I did) with a block 6 meters high, and tie rope to the end of the arrow, let it through the block, and pull it up as the platform rises.
Having suspended the platform in this way and placed a stand under it, you can lower and raise the platform and move the stand to find a position in which the counterweight will balance the boom.
In this position, drill 4 through holes and bolt the platform to the rack. OK it's all over Now. The tap is ready. You can start testing.
Well, a couple of examples of operation:
General view of my faucet:
If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I will try to answer as quickly as possible.
I wish you success in your work, as well as the opportunity to lift and move everything you need and where you need it.
Acceptable amount is from 10 rubles. up to 15,000 rub.
Light jib cranes with a lifting capacity of up to 1 ton are indispensable when carrying out various electrical, installation and construction work. Thanks to their design, it is possible to install devices in various openings of a building or on ceilings, as well as to move them for convenient use. They are easy to assemble and install, and if necessary, they can be quickly disassembled into their component elements and moved to a suitable location.
The use of such structures is rational in the absence of the possibility of operating other types of hydraulic and hydraulic machines. There are many types of cranes with different design. They are divided into stationary and mobile. The boom devices are equipped with one electric drive mechanism for moving the load. The crane operates by manual control.
Construction mini crane
You can independently create a variety of tools and devices that are so necessary for construction and other types of work. Despite the fact that the mini crane, made with your own hands, is characterized by a limited transportable load weight (no more than 250 kg), such a design will simplify the implementation of most construction work.
The main task is to select all the tools and parts necessary for creation and subsequent operation. The weight of the prefabricated device can reach up to 300 kg, depending on the materials used. At the same time, it has compact dimensions and the ability to move without preliminary disassembly using a car.
do it yourself: assembly
Using a worm-based gearbox, a cargo winch is formed. It can also provide the creation of a manual drive that simplifies the assembly of the boom winch. The basis for the screw extensions are construction supports. All the elements presented above form the basis of the design. In addition, drums for winches are needed. It is worth noting that they self-production not everyone can do it, since the process is complex and labor-intensive, as well as the need for specialized equipment and experience in carrying out such work.
The way out of the situation is rotors from an electric motor, which can be used as a basis and significantly simplify the task. Special attention should be given to the correspondence of the sizes of the elements used and the future device. To do this, additional measurements are taken using a ruler.
Additional items
To simplify movement, the platform is equipped with wheels. Elements from the conveyor cart may be useful. When creating the structure, you should not forget about this addition, since it is thanks to it that the simplest crane, assembled with your own hands, moves. To do this, you only need to remove the external support elements, which does not cause any particular difficulties and is done in a short time. It is important to follow safety precautions, in particular the boom must be set to zero level to prevent loss of balance and the crane falling.
Peculiarities
The optimal boom height is 5 meters. For its manufacture, a pipe with a diameter of about 8 cm is used. A profile of two corners is mounted into the base. You also need to create a rotating mechanism to rotate and lift the boom, this will be suitable for car hub from any cargo vehicle. Not needed for counterweight special materials, since you can use standard bricks for them. You can create a crane with your own hands using both caterpillar tracks and a frame. The last element can be taken from an unused machine.
It is worth noting that there is no need for a brake for the turning mechanism and winch, since it is not needed during the operation of the crane, and the finished device will operate at low speed.
Advantages of the design
Suitable for forming an external support structure and a common base. For the latter, according to experts, it will be optimal use channel by 200. The length of the thrust screws should be within 50 cm, due to which a do-it-yourself crane can be mounted on any surface, including those with a lot of unevenness. Thus, there is no need to prepare the site on which the building is being built.
Difficulties sometimes arise with wheels, since loose soil they may not scroll well and burrow into it. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out work on hard ground. After completion of construction, the structure is disassembled into its component elements for storage.
What can be done for the garage
At self-repair cars often need to remove the engine, so many car owners are wondering how to make a crane with their own hands. The most simple option is a lift, the creation of which requires a hand winch, racks on triangular supports with wheels and a transverse pipe.
At the top of the racks, fasteners for the pipe are fixed by welding. TO vertical rack is welded and the rollers are mounted on the beam, subsequently they are used to move the cable. In this case, it is not necessary to purchase a winch, since you can make this design yourself.
Such a device will not clutter up the space; it can be disassembled and separately cross beam and the supports will not take up much space. The crane, created with your own hands for a garage, is capable of lifting and moving a load weighing no more than 800 kg. Its main advantage is that there is no need to purchase expensive materials.
Lift
As noted earlier, you can make a winch yourself. To do this, you will need a drum equipped with a cable; it must be fixed to a structure made of pipes with a square cross-section. Small star with chain drive is installed on an electric drive, and the larger one is installed on the edge of the drum. For creating manual winch a shaft equipped with a drum is complemented by a handle.
To replace and repair most parts in a car, a platform or pit is required; if they are not available, you can use a lift. Despite the existing risks when working with such a device, its creation is justified by economic benefits and practical benefits.
An overhead trolley crane, assembled with a winch yourself, is the simplest option; the machine is installed on platforms after being raised to the desired height. There is also a scissor design, which is characterized by the absence of the possibility of cable breakage, which the previous option cannot guarantee.
Scissor crane
The base and platform of the scissor lift are made of channels. Two-piece distributor, pump, bushings, and are required for shears.
A self-made UAZ crane is capable of lifting loads weighing more than 500 kg. It can also be removed upon completion of work. The main purpose of the device is to fix retractable supports. The base of the structure is made of a thick-walled square, secured to the frame with several bolts. The retractable pores stay on the bumper and raise the rear of the car.
Crane “Pioneer”
The mechanism makes it possible to simplify the implementation of many repair and construction works, as well as to ensure the implementation of actions that cannot be performed without additional lifting devices. The design is suitable for cargo of various volumes and sizes, and it can be installed on the floors of houses under construction, in pits and on the roof.
Among the main components it is worth noting the rotating and supporting frames, the control panel. The device does not cause any difficulties in the process of use and the application of significant physical effort. Management is within the power of every person, even those without relevant experience.
Many owners of private houses and summer cottages. Their spread is due to the fact that each part of the mechanism, regardless of its complexity, can be performed in the desired manner and with the necessary functionality. In addition to moving heavy loads such as monolithic blocks, such cranes enable the delivery of light objects to great heights.
Unfortunately, the creation hydraulic devices, as a rule, is not possible. But, despite this, the crane (with your own hands), the photo of which is presented below, is easy to operate and has sufficient lifting capacity.
Assembly of the Pioneer crane
Many parts can be found, surprisingly, in a landfill. For homemade mechanism the main components are a rectangular pipe and an I-beam. It is important that the latter fits easily into the pipe. To create a telescopic unit for an I-beam, sliding guides are made. It is worth noting that they must be lubricated with special compounds to reduce the degree of friction.
For the device to function, cables with a small diameter are also required. They can be purchased at a hardware store. To secure the rotary and support frame a channel is often used. It also ensures that the device can be firmly mounted on any surface. As a rule, it is the roof of a building under construction. In accordance with safety regulations, the manufacture of a rectangular platform as ballast is required, and it will reduce the likelihood of problems while the crane, assembled with your own hands, is in operation. An electric motor connected to a winch is used to start the lifting process.
You can be sure that your young operator will love lifting heavy loads with this wooden machine.
Before your little one gets lost in video games, give them an imaginative gift like this powerful crane.
- Dimensions: height - 635 mm; boom radius - 345 mm; track - 197 mm; wheelbase - 289 mm.
- A hand winch raises and lowers the boom and bucket.
- Thanks to the swivel support, the tower structure rotates smoothly to move the load.
- The wide chassis with eight twin wheels provides stability and mobility on the construction site. (In the presence of lathe you will quickly grind required quantity wheels Ready wooden wheels Can be purchased at hobby and craft stores.)
- You will need a small amount of straight scraps and a few screws. Other little things will also probably be found in your workshop.
MASTERING THE SKILL
- Learn how to secure round pieces to a drill press table.
Make a chassis
Mark the centers of the holes for the wheel axles in chassis A. Using a clamp, press the chassis against the stop drill table, alternately drill holes 38 mm deep.
1. For chassis A, cabins G and counterweight N cut a workpiece measuring 38x159x305 mm. (We chose nut.) Longitudinal sawing Separate a 38 mm wide block from one edge of the workpiece and set it aside to later make a cabin and counterweight out of it. Saw the rest of the workpiece to the dimensions of chassis A, indicated in the “List of Materials”.
2. Mark the chassis on the workpiece A front and back bevels (Fig. 1). File them down band saw and sand smooth. Then insert a 9 mm drill bit into the drill chuck, fix the stop at a distance of 13 mm from the drilling axis and make holes on both sides of the chassis for the wheel axles (photo A) Finish sand the part.
Glue the mast and boom
Fasten the side parts B with double-sided tape, mark the centers and drill holes through both parts.
1. For side parts IN and prosgavok WITH cut two blanks measuring 19x38x660 mm. (We used maple.) From each piece, make one side piece and one spacer. Attach a Forstner drill with a diameter of 25 mm to the drill chuck and make five holes in each side part (Fig. 2, photo B)
2. To assemble the mast, prepare a pair of clamping strips measuring 19x57x610 mm. (We used MDF scraps.) Cover one side of the clamping strips masking tape to avoid them sticking to the parts. Place tape on one side of each side piece IN, limiting the location of spacers WITH in accordance with rice. 2.(The tape is thick enough to keep the clamping bars from moving and to easily remove excess glue.) Glue the mast parts together (photo C And D).
Glue spacers C to one side piece B. Apply glue and place the second mast side piece on top.
Secure the parts between the leveling bars and then press them vertically with clamps. The bottom spacer C and both side pieces B must be aligned at the base.
3. Mark on the side piece IN mast center 5mm hole for boom axle (Fig. 2). Using a drill press, make a hole by inserting 19mm thick scraps between the mast side pieces to prevent chipping.
Once the glue has dried, remove the clamps and strips, mark a bevel on the top end of the mast and file it with a bandsaw.
4. Do it on the mast B/C top bevel (Fig. 2, photo E) and sand smooth. Then sand the 3mm fillets on the top corners of the side pieces IN and upper spacer WITH. Insert an edge cutter into the collet of a router mounted in the table and mill 2 mm wide chamfers along the edges of the holes and the outer ribs of the mast (except for the bottom ones). Finish sand the mast.
5. To make the front D and back E For boom spacers, sharpen a workpiece measuring 35x560 mm to a thickness of 6 mm (we took walnut) and saw it into pieces of the specified length. Using a band saw, make a bevel on the front spacer and a taper on the back (Fig. 3). Sand the sawed edges.
As with the mast assembly, prepare 19x19x610mm clamping strips and apply masking tape to align spacers D, E between the side pieces F for gluing.
6. For boom side parts F Take a maple blank measuring 19x35x5 72 mm, saw it lengthwise in half along its thickness and plan both strips. Glue in spacers D, E between the side parts F (Fig. 4 And photoF).
7. When the glue dries, make a spacer in the back E using a drill press a 2.5mm hole for the cord, a 5mm hole for the axle and another 5mm hole at the front end of the boom (Fig. 4). Before drilling the front hole, insert between the side pieces F 6 mm thick trim to prevent chipping at the drill exit. Then mark the two tapers, cut them with a band saw and sand them down to the marking lines. Also sand the 3mm rounds on the ends of the boom and rout 2mm chamfers along all the ribs. Finish sand the finished arrow.
Add a cab and counterweight
1. Take the previously set aside blank for the cabin G and counterweight N. Mark the center of the hole at one of its ends in the middle of the width (Fig. 1a). Using a 25mm Forstner drill bit, make a hole using a drill press. Then use a band saw to cut a 10 mm wide bevel, sand it and saw off the cabin from the workpiece. Mill 2mm chamfers on the edges of the hole and the outer ribs of the cab. Finish sand the part.
Apply a little glue to the G cabin and glue it to the B/C mast close to the D/E/F boom, securing it with a clamp.
2. Before attaching the cabin G to the mast B/C, insert the boom between the side parts of the mast IN and a piece of threaded rod into the holes of both parts. Then glue the cab to the side pieces B (Fig. 1 And photoG). Now temporarily remove the boom from the mast.
3. From the remainder of the walnut blank, cut out a counterweight to the specified dimensions N. Mill chamfers on its edges (rice.1) and finally sand the part. Glue the counterweight to the boom D/E/F, aligning it in the middle of the width with an indentation of 13 mm from the rear end.
Make a winch
1. Cut out the sides from 12 mm planks I. Use double-sided tape to connect them face to face. Mark by rice. 5a centers of the holes and drill them with a 6mm drill bit using a drill press. Mark a bevel on one corner, file it with a band saw and sand it. Then sand the small curves to external corners, separate the parts and sand them completely.
2. Cut out the winch platform J, making sure that its width matches the overall thickness of the mast B/C and both sidewalls I. Mill a chamfer along the top front rib (Fig. 5). Drill mounting holes to attach the base to the mast side pieces IN. (For screws with a diameter of 4.2 mm, the diameters of the mounting and pilot holes are 4 and 2.8 mm, respectively.)
Through the holes in the sides of winch I, drill 5mm holes for threaded rods through the B/C mast.
3. Attach the sides with clamps I to the platform J (Fig. 5). Drill holes and screw in screws. (For 3.5 mm diameter screws, the diameters of the mounting and pilot holes are 3.5 and 2.4 mm, respectively.) Insert the mast B/C between the sides of the winch and through their holes, drill holes in the side parts IN masts. Screw in the screws. Now use a drill press to make 5mm through holes in the mast (photo N).
Place the swivel support in the middle of chassis A, turn the winch and mast sideways to access the bottom flange and mark the centers of the screw holes.
4. Turn the winch upside down with the mast attached and place it in the middle bottom side grounds J swivel support, drill guide holes and screw in screws (Fig. 1). Then place the winch with mast on the chassis A and mark the centers of the holes for attaching the swivel support (photo I). Remove the mast and winch from the chassis to drill holes for the screws.
5. Take two pieces of 6mm wooden dowel rod, 102mm long, and glue a spool in the middle of each one. (Fig. 5). When the glue is dry, drill in the spools and dowels in the middle through hole with a diameter of 2.5 mm.
6. In four wooden button handles, drill an axial hole to a diameter of 6 mm to a depth of 10 mm. How to fix the handles on drilling machine, described in the “Tip of the Master” below.
How to Safely Hold Round Pieces When Drilling
When trying to drill holes in turned knobs, you are faced with two difficulties: how to hold the spherical part upright on a level table and how to prevent it from rotating when the drill is immersed in the wood. There is an easy way to kill two birds with one stone. Drill a 19x6 mm recess in the cut board. Place a piece of double-sided tape measuring 38x38mm on top of it (photo below left). Align the handle over the center of the recess and press it firmly onto the trim. Now, pressing the scrap against the machine stop, position the drill exactly above the axial hole of the handle and you can start drilling (photo below right). This method also works for wooden balls.
Finishing and assembly
1. Remove the swivel support, mast B/C and sidewalls I from the winch platform J. Inspect all parts and, if necessary, sand them additionally. Place the wheels and tub on a 6mm rod and place thick scraps under the ends. To apply finishing coating on the wooden axles, without touching their ends, which will be glued into the holes, take a piece of a thick block and, having drilled eight 10-mm holes in it, insert the axles into them. Then make six 6mm holes at least 50mm apart in the other trim. Insert short dowels into four of them and attach button handles to their ends. Wrap masking tape around one end of each spool pin and insert the other ends into the remaining trim holes. Apply a clear coat to all parts of the toy. (We used a semi-matte varnish in an aerosol can, which we applied four times with intermediate grinding sandpaper No. 320. After drying each layer, the wheels were treated with a soft brush made of brass wire.)
2.
Place a wheel and washer on each axle. Glue the axles into the chassis holes A, inserting a thin plastic gasket so that the wheels can rotate freely.
3. Attach the winches to the platform with screws J one of the sidewalls I (Fig. 5). Place a washer, a spring and another washer on each rod with a reel, and insert them into the holes in the side of the winch. Add two more washers with a spring to each rod and install the second side of the winch so that the rods with the reels are between the two side frames. Place one more washer on the ends of the rods protruding from the outside and attach the button handles, smearing their holes with glue.
4. Attach the mast to the winch platform B/C. Prepare two pieces of M6 threaded rod 92 mm long (10 mm larger than the width of the base) and thread them through the holes in the side panels I and masts (Fig. 5). Apply a little special fixing paste to the ends of the studs and screw on the cap nuts. Attach the swivel support to the platform with screws J winches and then to the chassis A.
5. Now take two more pieces of threaded rod, 67 and 29 mm long. Insert the arrow D/E/F/H between the side parts of the mast IN. Insert a long length of pin into the axle holes (Fig. 1). Apply locking paste and screw on the cap nuts. Insert a short piece into the holes at the front end of the boom and also secure it with cap nuts and apply locking paste.
6. Cut a cord 61 cm long and tie a knot at one end. Pass it from above through the hole in the rear boom spacer E, then through the hole in the back spool and tie a second knot. Wind the excess cord onto the spool by rotating the knobs.
7. Cut a 183 cm long cord, thread it through the hole in the front spool and tie a knot. Then pass the cord through the gap between the front and rear boom spacers D, E, through the upper mast spacer WITH and between the front spacer and the front threaded rod. Attach a weight hook to the end of the cord and wind the loose excess cord onto the spool. Finally, hang a small tub on a hook. Don't forget to put on your gloves and hard hat before turning on the engine and letting your imagination run wild!
Height modern houses become more and more, but the weight of concrete blocks does not decrease. For this reason, even for domestic purposes, it would be a good idea to make a crane with your own hands. This design, naturally, will not have a large load capacity, approximately 200 kg. Of course, this is probably not the limit, but it’s better not to experiment. This crane is a completely prefabricated structure that weighs from 200 to 300 kg, so self-assembly such a crane will not cause any difficulties. In addition, this crane is very convenient to transport; it fits well in a Chinese pickup truck.
The cargo winch can be made from worm gear with an electric drive of 600 W, but the boom winch can be made from a manual drive, organized through the same gearbox.
You can use construction supports as a basis for outriggers on screw stops. To make drums for winches, you can use rotors from electric motors, and they should be selected according to size.
The mobile platform must be equipped with wheels that were previously on the conveyor trolley. This makes it possible to easily move the crane from one position to another; all that needs to be done is to remove the outriggers.
Removal and installation of these supports will take approximately five minutes. For this reason, the design can be considered quite mobile. However, there is a drawback: to move the crane you need to lower the boom to zero level, otherwise, the crane may overturn due to imbalance.
The do-it-yourself crane has a five-meter boom made from a Ø 7.5 cm pipe and a square profile at the very base, made from a pair of corners. In addition, the crane has a portal to lift the boom, and a rotating mechanism, which is based on a hub from a truck.
As a counterweight, you can use a frame from a non-working machine complete with four caterpillar tracks, or just bricks. The winch does not include a brake, since the need to use it is a big question.
The turning mechanism also does not have a brake, since the crane is not designed to operate at high speeds, and therefore the inertial forces are too small.
The thinnest metal used for this tap is approximately 3 mm. The outrigger and base are mostly made of rectangular pipe, with dimensions 85 by 50 and 85 by 55. A 200 channel channel is used to make the base of the tower. The hook cage is equipped with a powerful bearing, which means that the rotation of the hook does not depend on the pulley. At the same time, during rotation, overlapping or twisting of the track is eliminated.
The length of the stop screws is 40 cm. This is the reason that the installation of the crane can be carried out even on extremely uneven surfaces.
Now about the wheels, not everything is so smooth here. We are talking about a small flaw. The essence of the problem is that when using a crane with the described wheels on loose soil, the wheels burrow into the ground while moving, and if the soil is hard, then there are no problems. The described construction can be considered one-time use, this means that after you have completed necessary work, it should be disassembled for metal or until next time. It is for this reason that this design has little load capacity and is not durable.
A crane of this type can be manufactured in approximately three days, taking into account the fact that all the necessary components are prepared. The production of gearboxes was made from the first items that came to hand. The gearboxes have the following gear ratios: 1 to 30 and 1 to 35.
Connection three phase motor performed in a single-phase network. It has a shaft output of 600 W and capacitors with a capacity of 80 microfarads. The weight of all installations, if not taking into account counterweights, will be approximately 250 kg, with a relatively low cost. The bulk of the components used are borrowed from other designs; you only have to worry about purchasing cables and bearings.
After you make a crane with your own hands, you can easily lift 150 -200 kg, which is quite impressive considering that it is not intended for industrial scale.
A simpler version of the tap:
