Connecting the drain tank to the water supply. Toilet connection to water supply and sewerage

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From the author: Hello, dear readers! If you are faced with the question of how to connect the toilet to the sewer, then you have reached the main stage of installation. Why to the main thing? Yes, because it is from this moment that depends how trouble-free the operation of your sanitaryware will be.

For some reason, many home craftsmen I know don’t like to deal with plumbing. And others calmly do it complex work, from installation suspended ceilings before moving the walls in the apartment. But to replace the faucet, outside craftsmen are invited.

They explain this by saying that it is difficult to tinker with plumbing, and the consequences of doing the work incorrectly can be very disastrous: this includes damage to your own home and flooding of your neighbors.

In fact, despite all the responsibility in our particular case, it is quite possible to cope with connecting sanitary ware to the sewer yourself; this does not require any unique knowledge or complex drawings. It is enough to follow the generally accepted system and treat the work carefully and with all care. So make yourself comfortable, we will sort out the issue.

Possible connection types

Connecting the toilet to the sewer great importance have two points: the outlet angle (that is, the location of the sewer hole) and the type of pipe itself with which the connection is made.

The sewer outlet can be horizontal, vertical and oblique. The first option is when the pipe runs from the toilet to the sewer parallel to the floor, that is, located horizontally. With an oblique outlet, the outlet hole in the earthenware product is located slightly higher than the sewer hole in the wall. Therefore, the pipe runs at an angle relative to the floor.

At vertical version The sewer pipe goes from the toilet to the floor. For some reason, this connection model was not popular in our country before. But now the example of Europe and the United States of America has prompted the fact that vertical exhaust is being used more and more often; it is now usually found in new buildings.

The advantage of the latter option is that the equipment is not tied to the wall. That is, you can install it anywhere, even in the center of the room. In this case, the pipes will be hidden under the floor finishing material.

Types of pipes

The connecting pipes through which the contents of the toilet go into the sewer system come in different types:

  • corrugated. This is a soft bendable pipe, similar to an accordion. It is convenient in that it can be adjusted to the discrepancy between the heights of the toilet outlet and the sewer hole by simply bending it. The downside is the long length. Even a short corrugated pipe itself can exceed the required distance. Another disadvantage is the low strength of the product - it is less than other options;
  • eccentric. This device is shorter and stronger than corrugation. Suitable for cases where the height of the outlet and sewer outlet do not match. It consists of two cylinders connected by a pipe and shifted along the vertical axis relative to each other. IN in this case The disadvantage may be just the insufficient length, which is usually from 10 to 12 centimeters. In addition, you need to be very careful in measuring the height difference between the holes in the bathroom so that the eccentric fits exactly;
  • plastic. It is made of the appropriate material, which gives it fairly decent strength characteristics. In addition, it is smooth on the inside, which greatly reduces the likelihood of blockages. Another advantage is the possibility of cutting, that is, such a pipe can be adjusted to the required length. But there are some downsides here too. The rigidity of the plastic pipe requires special precision and care in installation. If even the slightest misalignment occurs at the joints, then leaks will be inevitable. Also not too pleased with the appearance. If you take inexpensive option pipes, then it will be gray, which rarely harmonizes with the color of the toilet and other sanitary ware in. Can be found white version, but its cost is much higher;
  • fun. Used when the sewer riser is too small throughput. The fan pipe is made of earthenware or porcelain. On the one hand, this gives the entire structure a solid appearance and aesthetics. On the other hand, although the material is hard, it is also fragile. Therefore, there is a risk of damaging it both during operation and during installation. However, installing such a pipe is not the easiest thing at all, so it is best to entrust it to experienced professionals.

The most popular pipe option for connecting to a sewer system is corrugated. It has a low price, can bend as you like, and can also be stretched if necessary. True, one should take into account both the aforementioned low strength coupled with the long length, and not the most easy process cleaning the outer surface of such a pipe. Dust and dirt constantly gets stuck in small folds, so the cleaning process becomes quite lengthy and difficult.

In addition, if the slope of such a pipe is rather weak, then it will have to be cleaned periodically. And also, with prolonged use, sagging may occur, especially in the case of long length corrugations. However, even the presence of so many disadvantages does not prevent it from being the best option connections.

Preparation for installation

When you have decided on the choice of connection method, it’s time to move on to the actual preparation. First, you need to purchase everything necessary tools and materials. Of course, first of all it is the toilet itself and the pipe.

In addition to these, you will need the following:

  • rubber cuffs that will serve as seals;
  • special adapters, if necessary;
  • silicone sealant;
  • if you decide to use a plastic pipe, then a tool for cutting it (a hacksaw for metal is quite suitable);
  • tools for measurements and markings: pencil and tape measure;
  • If you need to dismantle an old cast-iron sewer pipe, then also stock up on a hammer, a flat-head screwdriver and a pry bar, a wire brush and a piece of rags.

Let's talk about the last point in more detail. If we are not talking about a new building, then most likely old toilet The outlet was built directly into the cast iron elbow. Moreover, this entire structure was usually generously cemented to obtain high strength and reliability of the connection.

Source: kanalizaciyam.ru

The easiest way in this case is to first simply break the ceramic element with a hammer. Be sure to wear safety glasses when doing this, as the fragments will fly violently and suddenly. It is necessary to protect your eyes from them.

After you have knocked the toilet away from the knee, you need to tap the latter on all sides with a hammer. However, keep in mind that you don’t need to put in too much effort. Old cast iron may surprise you with its sudden brittleness. If you split a pipe with an excessively powerful blow, you will have to get all the way to the sewer riser and replace the broken element with a new one. That is, the work will become more complicated and drawn out. Therefore, tap lightly.

Thanks to this procedure, it will be possible to remove cement residues, as well as accumulated deposits, from the inner walls of cast iron. Small pieces can be pulled out with a screwdriver, and large pieces can be removed using a pry bar.

Once all global deposits have been removed, put on protective gloves and apply toilet cleaner to the inside of the pipe. For example, the “Duckling” toilet would be suitable. After application, wait 10–15 minutes, and then thoroughly clean the treated surface with a wire brush.

The final step will be wiping with a piece of rag. Special attention during the cleaning procedure, pay attention to a five-centimeter section of the pipe, which is located at the very exit. As a result of your manipulations, it should become smooth. This is necessary to ensure that the joint with the new toilet pipe is airtight.

Installation and connection of the toilet

Now let's look at how to correctly install and connect a new earthenware product. To begin with, we will analyze the process in detail using the example of using a corrugated pipe as the optimal and most popular option. And then we’ll talk about other methods, which, however, are not too different.

Corrugated connection

Corrugation can be used in cases where the toilet has either an oblique or horizontal outlet. Before purchasing a pipe, measure the distance between the toilet outlet and the sewer in the wall. Take a corrugation one third longer than this indicator. Next we perform the following steps.

  1. We coat the joint of the sewer hole with silicone sealant (at the same time we apply a thicker layer), then insert a rubber cuff there.
  2. We install the rubber end of the corrugated pipe into the drain through the seal. We push it inward until all the rings are completely inserted. Until the installation of all other elements of the toilet structure is completed, do not touch this end of the pipe; the silicone must dry completely in order to obtain a normal seal.
  3. We install the toilet in its rightful place. It must be absolutely stable. To check this fact, just sit on top and gently try to swing. If it is not possible to achieve an even installation, then most likely the floor needs to be leveled.
  4. When you have finally achieved stability and reliability from the toilet, connect the other end of our corrugation to the corresponding hole.
  5. Now carry out the test - pour three buckets of water into the toilet. After a minute, carefully inspect the places where the corrugated pipe is connected to the sewer hole and toilet outlet. If you see leaks, you will have to remove the pipe and reinstall it, after first checking the correct installation and the integrity of the rubber cuffs. If there are no global leaks, but if there are a few drops of water at the junction of the corrugation and the toilet, there is no need to worry; this defect can subsequently be easily removed using silicone sealant. If there are no problems with the reliability of the joints, great, move on to the next stage.
  6. We mark on the floor the places where the toilet will be fixed (there are special holes on the product for this).
  7. We remove the corrugation from the outlet and put it aside for now. Make sure that it does not warp in the place where it connects to the sewer. We are also moving the toilet away for now.
  8. In the places that we marked on the floor, we drill holes and install dowels in them.
  9. We place the toilet on its side and lubricate its lower part around the perimeter with silicone sealant.
  10. Then we turn it over to the normal position, put it on Right place and fix it with screws.
  11. We check the stability again using the above method. If everything is in order, tighten the screws to the end and put decorative plugs on them.
  12. We seal the gap formed between the floor and the toilet waterproof sealant on cement based. Some people do this using the same silicone, but it will peel off pretty quickly because it doesn’t tolerate it very well. wet cleaning which is produced regularly.
  13. Now we take the previously set aside end of the corrugated pipe, treat the rubber tip from the inside with silicone sealant and pull it onto the toilet pipe. If the corrugation requires stretching in length, then this should be done evenly, then you can avoid sagging.
  14. We wait two hours, during which time the silicone should harden.
  15. We install the tank and connect a water supply hose to it.
  16. Now we check the quality of the installation. To do this, we drain it about three times, each time waiting for the tank to fill. We inspect all joints (both the corrugation and the water supply hose) for leaks.

If everything is in order and no leaks are observed, then the installation of the toilet using a corrugated pipe was completed successfully.

Installation with plastic elbow

The procedure is carried out almost the same as in the case of corrugation. You should take into account only those nuances that we mentioned above:

  • the plastic knee does not bend;
  • it must be installed perfectly to avoid distortions. Therefore, the location of the toilet will depend on the placement of the knee, and not vice versa;
  • if the plastic pipe is too long, then simply cut it with any suitable tool;
  • During the installation process, all joints are pre-lubricated with silicone-based sealant.

The rest of the procedure is no different from that described above.

Direct connection

The most reliable method of connecting a toilet to a sewer is one that does not use pipes at all. In such cases, the toilet pipe is inserted directly into the sewer hole. Of course, for this to happen, the elements must fit together perfectly.

The installation procedure depends on the release form. Let's look at each option in more detail.

Vertical release

For such an installation you will need a special part - a flange. The procedure is as follows.

  1. We try the flange on the floor, mark with a marker the places where the clamps will be located.
  2. We remove the flange, drill holes in the marked places, and install dowels.
  3. We put the flange in place and fix it with fasteners. We make sure that the axis of the fixing bolts is perpendicular to the bottom of the toilet bowl.
  4. Lubricate the sealing collar with silicone.
  5. We install the toilet on the flange and secure it with nuts.

Horizontal and oblique release

This installation is carried out according to the same principle as using corrugation. The only difference is that from the sewer drain hole there is a rigid structure. Moreover, during installation of the pipe into it, its elements should not become loose or move. Therefore, it is better to call for help from another person who will hold the structure during installation.

The other stages of the procedure are no different from those described above. We mark the fixation points on the floor, install and secure the toilet, insert the pipe into the drain, pre-lubricated with silicone, wait two hours and check the system for leaks.

That's all, Dear friends. Despite all the responsibility of the event, the work itself is not that difficult. To get even more full information For all the nuances of installing a toilet, you can read other articles on our portal, each of which describes a specific step in detail.

And also don’t forget to watch the video, the link to which we have attached to today’s material. This will help you remember exactly the order of work. The rest is up to you: a little effort and accuracy, and your bathroom will happily accept a new porcelain occupant. Good luck!

Availability of water supply and sewerage systems in modern apartments and homes is the key to comfort. But for the efficient and uninterrupted operation of all systems, it is necessary to correctly install them and connect sanitary fixtures. In our article we will talk about how to connect a toilet to a toilet with your own hands. sewer system. You will learn about in what cases a toilet is installed using corrugation, when you need shaped products or eccentric connections. The video at the end of the article will allow you to better understand the intricacies of the connection process.

The connection diagram of a sanitary fixture to the sewer system depends on the configuration of the fixture itself, or more precisely on the outlet with which it is made. So, today the following options for the location of drain pipes in the toilet are used:

  • Devices with outlet located horizontally. These types of toilets connect directly to sewer pipe, passing through the wall of the bathroom.
  • Plumbing units with oblique outlet. In this case, the pipe outlet forms an angle of 45 degrees. Such options are considered universal, since they allow you to connect the toilet to the sewer both in the floor and in the wall.
  • Products with vertical pipe outlet. The connection diagram in this case is implemented with the discharge of water into a sewer pipe passing under the floor where the toilet is installed.

Each scheme has its pros and cons. They must be taken into account when choosing a bowl configuration. In addition, the choice of one or another connection option is significantly influenced by the location of the sewer pipe in the room.

Connection with vertical output


Connecting a toilet with a perpendicular outlet to the floor was common in Europe in the 70s. The advantages of this connection option include the fact that the device can be installed close to the wall. In addition, the appearance of the room and the unit is not disfigured by the protruding pipe.

The main disadvantage of a sewer system running under the floor, to which a toilet with a vertical outlet is connected, is that when replacing or leaking pipes, you will have to break the tiled flooring, and in order to clean the sewer, you need to dismantle the toilet.

Do-it-yourself installation of such a device is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. First, you need to mark the installation location on the floor.
  2. Then a standard flange is mounted screw type with a fixing element.
  3. There is a hole in the center of the flange. This is the place to install the sewer pipe.
  4. The toilet is installed on the flange and rotated until it is finally fixed at the installation site. In this case, the outlet pipe with a special sealing ring is automatically pressed tightly against the end part of the sewer pipe.

Installation of a device with horizontal outlet


Sanitary fixtures with horizontal outlets are widespread in the former Soviet Union. This scheme wiring is due to the fact that the riser was located in the wall of a panel or brick house.

The main advantage of devices with horizontal outlet is that connecting the toilet to the sewer is simple and quick. Moreover, this option is suitable for plastic and cast iron sewer pipes. This installation is easy to do yourself. The only drawback of a system with a horizontal outlet is that the device can only be connected to a vertical riser.

To correctly connect a sanitary fixture with a horizontal outlet with your own hands, you must use a sealing collar. To fix the unit in the floor, there are special holes in the legs through which the fixing elements can be passed.

Connection to a cast iron or plastic sewer system begins with the installation of the unit itself. For this, screws and dowels are used.

Important: during installation you need to be very careful and do not pull the screw all the way, so as not to cause cracking of the surface of the toilet.

Installation of a unit with an oblique drain


Sanitary fixtures with an oblique outlet can be considered a compromise between the schemes described above. Slant outlet toilets are the most commonly used in our homes today.

Next, we’ll look at how to connect a toilet with an oblique flush to the sewer system. This process is described in detail in the video provided at the end of the article. To do this, you should follow the following sequence of actions:

  1. To properly connect the device to the sewer, the outlet pipe with the grooves located on it is lubricated with a mixture of red lead and drying oil.
  2. On top of the coating, the pipe with an oblique outlet is wrapped with tarred cloth or tow. In this case, the end of the strand must hang freely, otherwise it will fall into the pipeline and cause frequent clogging of the system. This strand also needs to be treated with red lead.
  3. After this, the unit with an oblique outlet can be mounted on the floor by inserting the outlet pipe into the sewer socket.

Some subtleties of installation

Before connecting the toilet to the sewer, you should familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the process, which will be useful in any case. Usually for correct connection devices for sewer pipes use corrugated pipes and eccentric cuffs, shaped products and plastic bends.

If you are going to use installation using a fan pipe, which gives the entire structure a holistic and respectable look, then you should know a few nuances:

  • the fan pipe cannot be cut;
  • It is prohibited to change the geometric configuration of the pipe.

To connect the toilet to a cast iron and plastic sewer system, it is very convenient to use a corrugated cuff. The corrugation can be extended by stretching it in length, or bent at the desired angle.

As for eccentric collars, they are needed if you need to obtain a deviation from one axis of the plastic pipes being joined. By turning the cuff in one direction or another, you can compensate for the deviation.

Important: the advantage of installation with corrugation is that you can install the device in a hard-to-reach place or connect it to a sewer system that has different inlet pipes.

Connection using corrugation


If you don’t know how to connect a toilet to a sewer with corrugated pipes, then our recommendations will help you do the job yourself:

  1. To begin, the narrower end of the corrugated cuff is inserted into the sewer outlet. The joint is sealed with silicone.
  2. The second end of the corrugated product (wider) is put on the outlet from the toilet. Thus, the device is connected to the sewer pipeline. The joint should not be sealed with silicone yet. We will do this later, after fixing the device to the floor.
  3. Now check the tightness of the connection by flushing water into the toilet.
  4. Choose appropriate place for fixing the toilet to the floor. Mark the points where the holes will be drilled.
  5. Then the device is moved to the side, removing the corrugation. Holes are drilled in the floor.
  6. Dowels are inserted into the holes.
  7. The unit is installed in place and the corrugation is attached to it. Now the place where the corrugation joins the toilet can be lubricated with silicone.
  8. Fix the mounting bolts and check the tightness of all joints by draining water into the device.

Important: if, after installing the toilet, it sways when a person sits on it, then you need to make a cement pad under the structure and install the device on it.

  1. After completing installation and fixing the unit, it is necessary to seal the gaps between the device and the tiles on the floor using silicone or sealant.

The main disadvantage of using corrugation is that it can sag or be accidentally damaged. Therefore, when using thin-walled corrugation, you should avoid sagging like a siphon.

Connection without corrugation

If your corrugated pipe often leaks, then replacing it with a new corrugated pipe may not always help. In this case, it is better to use installation without using corrugation. In this case, the connection is made according to the following rules:

  • When connecting a device without a corrugated cuff, use an adapter pipe or a fan pipe. Depending on the angle of inclination of the toilet outlet, one of the following can be used: three options connections that we discussed above.
  • If the outlet from the device does not fit the socket from the sewer, you must select a different model of the unit or make a connection using curved adapter pipes.

Use of fittings for connection


Replacing corrugation with a fan pipe (shaped products) requires great skill during installation. To complete the work you will need the following materials:

  • a fan pipe or pipe with an angle suitable for your toilet model;
  • silicone sealant or resin strand.
  1. The outlet from the device is lubricated with a composition based on red lead and drying oil.
  2. Then the resin strand is wound. Its end should hang freely without falling into the sewer pipe.
  3. Then the strand is also coated with red lead.
  4. The shaped pipe is put on.
  5. To tightly connect the pipe to the sewer outlet, a rubber cuff is used.
  6. The assembled system is checked for leaks.
  7. After this, you can fix the device to the floor.

Connecting a wall-hung toilet


In order for the mounted product to withstand its own weight and the weight of a person sitting on it, installation to the wall is carried out using a special durable mounting frame. In this case, the water is drained through a horizontal pipe going into the wall.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. After installing the frame, which has a special hole for the sewer outlet, the device is hung on steel studs. They help securely fix and hold the bowl.
  2. Using a cuff, the toilet outlet and a section of pipe coming from the riser are connected. The connection is sealed with silicone.

Video guide for connecting a toilet to a sewer pipeline:

Is it possible to connect the toilet to the sewer yourself, without involving professional plumbers? No special skills are required to perform such work, so after familiarizing yourself with the basic installation rules, you can start working on your own. It is important to take into account that the technological process of installing a toilet does not depend on which room it is placed in - in a bathhouse or in a house. Read more about the process in our article on floor-standing toilets. If you have wall hung toilet, the article “” will come in handy.

What is needed for installation

The diagram for connecting the toilet to the sewer involves using eccentric or corrugated cuffs, plastic bends and drain pipes when connecting the toilet to the sewer pipeline. Appearance A toilet with a drain pipe goes well with the toilet, which takes on the appearance of a complete plumbing fixture. However, it must be taken into account that when installing a toilet using vent pipes there are a number of requirements:

  • they cannot be pruned;
  • their geometric shape cannot be changed.

At the same time, when connecting the toilet with your own hands, you need to know that the corrugated cuffs can be bent at any angle and extended in length, and the eccentric cuffs can be rotated relative to their axis, compensating for the deviation from the alignment of the connected plastic pipes.

Pro tip:

An advantage when making a connection using a corrugated cuff is the ability to connect the toilet in hard to reach places, as well as to the sewer system, which is equipped with different receiving sockets.

Connecting a toilet using a corrugated pipe

The connection process technology is as follows:

  1. The corrugation for connecting the toilet is inserted into the sewer pipe. The joint area is lubricated with silicone.
  2. The toilet bowl is connected to the second part of the corrugation, thus connecting it to the pipe. Check the reliability of the connection - fill a tank of water or fill a bucket and flush it into the toilet. During the inspection, carefully monitor for leaks.

  1. Determine the places for drilling in order to secure the toilet with dowels to the floor.
  2. The toilet is set aside and holes are drilled in the designated places.
  3. Dowels are inserted.
  4. Install the toilet in a stationary place and connect a corrugated pipe, lubricated from the inside with sealant. Connecting the toilet to the riser is accompanied by checking the reliability of the connection. If there are no water leaks and the water flows normally, then secure all the mounting screws that were included with the toilet.

  1. After fixing the toilet, you need to check its stability. If the toilet is prone to rocking after a person sits on it, then it is necessary to dismantle it and apply a cement screed under the device.
  2. Installation of the toilet is completed by sealing the place where it joins the tile using sealant or silicone.

Connecting a toilet without using corrugation: basic rules

If you decide not to use corrugation, the basic rules for connecting it in this case will be useful to you:

  1. If the toilet is connected without corrugation, then it is necessary to use a pipe, which is also called an adapter or a waste pipe. In this case, the connection to the adapter is carried out differently depending on the angle that the toilet has. There are 3 options:
  • connecting a toilet with an oblique outlet - it is installed in the floor - such an installation is no longer relevant now, although it was used very widely in the last century;
  • if the toilet outlet is vertical, then installation is carried out at an angle of 90º into the wall;
  • if the toilet outlet is horizontal, then installation is carried out into the wall at an angle of 30-40º.

  1. If the toilet outlet does not correspond to the outlet of the sewer network, you will have to either choose another toilet model or use curved adapter pipes at a certain angle.

Now we will consider in detail the features of installing plumbing fixtures of each type.

Toilets with vertical outlet

Such models are widely used in European countries. This is largely due to the fact that such plumbing fixtures have a downward-facing outlet pipe and a siphon located in the toilet bowl. This design allows you to place the toilet against the wall at any angle. Installation is simple:

  1. after marking, a standard screw flange equipped with a lock is installed on the floor;
  2. located in the center of the flange round hole install a sewer pipe;
  3. The toilet is mounted on the flange and turned until it is completely fixed; an outlet pipe that has a special sealing ring, and the pipe is automatically pressed against the end of the sewer pipe.

Toilet with horizontal outlet

Connecting a toilet with a horizontal outlet (it is also called a toilet with an outlet “into the wall”) is most relevant for the conditions of our country at the present time, which is due to the attachment of the bathroom to a specific wall in the bathroom due to the specifics of the routing of sewer system pipes in typical Russian houses. Since the toilet outlet in this case is directed backwards, it is located at the rear of the bathroom. In this case, the outlet pipe is connected to the sewer pipe using a special sealing collar.

Particular attention should be paid to securing the toilet to the floor. As a rule, the legs of a toilet bowl with a horizontal outlet are equipped with special holes that are designed to fix the device to the floor.

Pro tip:

Connecting a toilet with direct outlet begins with installation, using dowels and screws. Fastening must be carried out carefully, since pulling the screw too hard can damage the surface of the toilet bowl.

Installation of a toilet equipped with an oblique outlet

The installation technology for this type of toilet is as follows:

  1. Before properly connecting the toilet to the sewer, the toilet outlet with the grooves located on it is lubricated with red lead mixed with drying oil.
  2. A resin strand is wound on top. In this case, the 0.5 cm end of the process must remain free (otherwise the ends of the strand will fall into the hole and contribute to clogging).
  3. The wrapped strand is also thoroughly lubricated with red lead.
  4. Next, the toilet is installed, fixing the outlet branch into the socket of the sewer pipe.

Thus, we looked at how to connect a toilet flush of various configurations to a sewer pipe. Thanks to the information received, carrying out the installation yourself is actually feasible. Plus, you can save money. However, if you feel that your existing skills are not sufficient to perform similar works However, it will be more economical to use the services of professionals.

The need to connect the toilet to the sewer system may arise both at the stage of installing a new device in the bathroom, and in the event of a planned or emergency replacement of plumbing. At the time of buying floor-standing toilet evaluate not only the design features of the selected model, but also the form of release of contaminated water, which can be vertical, oblique or horizontal.

In Stalinist houses, toilets with a vertical outlet were most often installed, in Khrushchev houses - with an oblique one, and in modern new buildings, models with a horizontal outlet are designed and installed. Direct connection of the toilet to the sewage system is made using a special pipeline fittings.

The work is carried out most quickly when using a corrugated pipe. You will have to tinker a little longer if you connect the plumbing product through a drain pipe, an eccentric collar or plastic bends.

The device is selected depending on the location of the sewer riser and the outlet pipe, while calculating how to connect the toilet with minimal financial and time costs. Otherwise, you will have to redo the sewer system, adjusting it to the features of the toilet exhaust system.

Various devices for connecting the toilet to the sewerage system provide flexibility in performing installation work yourself

If the connection of the toilet with the sewer is carried out using drain pipes, then it is possible to achieve visual visibility of the unity of the installed product with connecting elements made of the same material (sanitary ware, ceramics, porcelain, etc.).

The difficulty of installation lies in the need to accurately match the parts with the location of the socket of the sewer pipe, since there is no possibility of adjusting the connecting element by cutting it.

Eccentric cuffs, produced from polymers, are a structure of two bends, the axes of which are shifted relative to each other.

The cuffs are sold in various lengths, so you can easily select a suitable part for connecting the purchased toilet to a sewerage system that has different parameters for the outlet and socket of the sewer pipe.

Corrugated pipes or corrugations have a plastic shape, thanks to which parts can stretch or shrink, as well as bend at any angle.

All these qualities make it easier installation work, during which the master only monitors the slope of the corrugation, ensuring normal cross-country ability.

A cast iron or plastic sewer pipe is connected to the toilet using rubber cuff, which is turned inside out during installation, which ensures 100% tightness of the connection

To enhance the reliability of the connection, be sure to use a sealant. It turns out quite reliable connection which will last for many years.

Self-connection of the toilet is carried out according to the diagram, and the master must have the necessary tools:

  • set of wrenches or at least one adjustable wrench;
  • several screwdrivers;
  • metal saw used when dismantling an old toilet;
  • tape measure, hammer, knife;
  • sandpaper;
  • sealant, a little tow, cement;
  • hammer drill with a set of pobedit drills;
  • dowels

Switching from cast iron pipes to plastic products

The cast iron sewer pipes running from the toilet to the riser have a diameter of 123 mm, and from the bathroom and kitchen sink - 73 mm. Plastic products gray or orange color different from the elements cast iron system sewer diameters: 110 mm and 50 mm, respectively.

When connecting a new toilet or replacing an old pipework, it becomes necessary to connect plastic pipes to a cast-iron riser that has a larger diameter.

To solve this problem, a special rubber cuff is purchased, which is inserted into the cleaned sewer socket.

Dismantling cast iron pipes and cleaning the socket

For dismantling work related to the removal of hardened cement mortar at the joint old pipe with a socket, you need to stock up on a hammer, a flat-head screwdriver, and a pry bar.

By gently tapping the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer, slowly but surely, free the connection of the sewerage system elements from the cement mortar. When the entire cement layer has been removed, a wooden stick is inserted into the pipe.

Raising and lowering the stick, shake the fixed position cast iron pipe, and with a little effort pull it out of the socket

Rust, plaque, and deposits are removed with a metal brush attached to an electric drill. Also used to clean cast iron walls. flat screwdriver or chisel.

You can treat the inner walls of the socket with a special substance that corrodes contaminants in sewer pipes. This will greatly facilitate the process of cleaning the sewer outlet. Complete cleaning of the bell by wiping its walls with a clean rag or rag.

The cleaner and smoother the walls of the socket, the better and more reliable the connections between pipes made from different materials.

The process of cleaning an old cast iron sewer socket from the remnants of a linen cord impregnated with red lead, for the installation of a transition to a plastic sewer

Installing the rubber cuff on the socket

Reliable fixation of the cuff in the sewer socket is ensured using a sealant that is applied to its walls.

Apply the sealant in a thick layer to outer surface cuffs, after which it is inserted into the opening of the bell

By gently tapping the edge of the cuff with a hammer, a tight adhesion of the contacting walls of the two elements of the system is achieved. A small amount of technical petroleum jelly or special plumbing grease is applied inside the cuff, which makes it easier to push the outlet of the plastic tee into the socket.

If the pipe does not want to climb into its proper place, take a piece of plywood, attach it to the pipe and tap it with a hammer. This will allow you to clog the pipe without damaging its walls.

Connection using corrugated pipe

Corrugation (this is the abbreviated name for corrugated pipe), intended for installing a toilet in a sewerage system, is used when other materials simply cannot be used.

Installation is carried out as follows:

  • install the toilet in the selected position;
  • determine where to drill the floor tiled covering, marking them with a simple pencil, inserted into the holes available in the plumbing fixture;
  • after marking is applied, the toilet is moved to another location in order to drill holes for dowels at the designated points;
  • insert into drilled holes dowels, fixing the stable position of the toilet;
  • one end of the corrugation is inserted into the sewer hole, lubricating the joint with silicone sealant;
  • the other end of the corrugation is put on the toilet outlet;
  • carry out all other installation operations and test the plumbing fixture, using it for its intended purpose.
  • check the reliability of the connection by filling the drain tank with water and performing a test drain;
  • the absence of leaks indicates a tight connection of all elements.

Check horizontality concrete base until the device is installed. If a difference in height is detected, fill in a self-leveling screed. Otherwise, after installation the toilet will wobble.

Connecting a corrugated plastic pipe to the toilet outlet pipe, ensuring the connection of the device to the sewerage system

Connecting a toilet using an adapter

You can connect the toilet to centralized system sewerage using special pipes called adapters or fan pipes. With this connection method it plays important role toilet release form.

If the outlet has an oblique shape, then the toilet is installed “on the floor”. Devices with a vertical outlet form are mounted “into the wall”, maintaining a straight 90-degree angle of the nozzle. Toilets with an oblique outlet are also installed “into the wall,” but the connecting pipe is already inserted at an acute angle of approximately 30-40 degrees.

When replacing plumbing fixtures, as a rule, you choose new model toilet with the same release form. If, when purchasing a new device, you ignore such a criterion as the release form, you will have to modify the connection method using corrugation or eccentric cuffs.

By existing classification All toilet models can be schematically divided into three according to type of release large groups shown in this picture

Installation of a toilet with vertical outlet

Models of toilets with a vertical release form are installed in cottages and houses old building. The siphon and pipe are an integral part of the device, and therefore it is impossible to see these parts after installation is completed.

The product can be installed at a close distance from the wall, since there is no need to leave space for placing pipeline fittings. The installation of a plumbing fixture begins after dismantling the old product and cleaning the surface of the area allocated for the new toilet.

Installation of a toilet with a vertical outlet is distinguished by the presence of a special flange connection, ensuring reliable sealing of the joint between the device and the sewerage system

Having made markings for the fasteners, they begin to install a screw-type flange into the floor, which has a lock and a hole intended for connecting the device to the sewer system.

All flanges are the same size. Manufacturers producing vertical toilets equip them with special elements necessary for a sealed connection with the flanges.

Having put the toilet in place, and making sure that all the existing holes and joints match, the entire structure is slightly rotated.

In this case, two elements are connected, the tightness of which is guaranteed by the presence of an O-ring placed between the parts.

A method of connecting a toilet with a horizontal outlet to a plastic sewer pipe located in the floor of the bathroom of a private house using corrugated pipes

Installation of a toilet with horizontal outlet

It is convenient and easy to connect a toilet with a horizontal outlet to a vertically standing sewer riser. The device is installed at a short distance from the socket of the sewer pipe.

This requirement is taken into account when planning the bathroom area. IN multi-storey buildings It is inappropriate to design and create a sewerage system with a horizontal outlet, since in this case a 110 mm pipe must be built into the floor or hidden in a decorative box.

A toilet with a horizontal outlet is connected to the vertical riser of the central sewer system, using a sealing collar or corrugation as a connecting element. It is recommended to seal the connections silicone sealants to prevent leaks and unpleasant odors.

When the center of the horizontal outlet is shifted relative to the socket of the sewerage system, a corrugation or angle paired with a short pipe is used to connect the elements. The toilet is connected to the pipe through a rubber collar.

Installation and connection of a toilet with a horizontal outlet to the sewer system using a rigid drain pipe

Installation of a toilet with an oblique outlet

This form of sewerage discharge is typical for houses built in the second half of the twentieth century. At that time, cast iron fittings were used to equip the sewage system at the facility.

Now we have to connect the oblique outlets of toilet bowls with cast iron sockets, carefully covering the resulting connection with cement mortar. During the work, carefully ensure that the solution does not fall into the sewer riser.

Before opening the toilet bowl into the socket, a mixture of red lead and drying oil is applied to its surface. Then the resin strand is wound tightly, leaving its end free. Once again coat the outlet with the wound strand with red lead, after which it is inserted into the sewer socket, firmly fixing its position.

A toilet with an oblique outlet and a diagram of its connection to the sewer riser by a plumber, indicating the height of the location of the main structural elements device

There is another way to connect a toilet with an oblique outlet to the sewerage system, which does not involve carrying out “dirty” work.

We are talking about using a rubber cuff, which is put on the outlet pipe and then connected to the sewer pipe. To ensure reliable tightness of the connection, the old dried mortar is carefully cleaned from the cast iron socket. When the toilet is forced to move relative to the location of the hole in the sewer pipe, corrugation is used.

If the sewerage system is apartment building made of plastic pipes, the toilet is connected using the methods described above with one difference: cement mortar does not need to be used to seal connections.

Installing a toilet with a sewer connection: video tutorial

Having learned how to connect the toilet to the sewer using each of the listed methods, you can more accurately determine the type of connection. Also detailed description necessary work gives a complete understanding of whether you are able to complete them yourself.

If you don’t intend to tinker with the toilet, call a plumber. The master will advise or purchase the necessary ones himself Consumables, including them in the cost of the service provided.

Installation of a floor-standing toilet is usually carried out after the completion of construction of a private house or cottage, or overhaul restroom. The service life of such a device is calculated in years, so the installation process should be approached carefully and thoughtfully.

Although functional purpose any toilet is extremely simple, design and installation method may vary greatly.

The procedure for connecting the toilet to the sewer differs depending on the form of release, material sewer pipeline and other parameters.

It is worth paying attention to a number important points which must be observed regardless of the installation method:

  • In the area from the toilet outlet to the sewer collector, the cross-section of the pipe must under no circumstances be reduced. Changes in a larger direction are allowed. When combining several sewer lines, this condition seems especially important.
  • Horizontal sections of drain pipelines should be located with a slight constant slope directed towards the collector. For the most popular diameter – 110 mm – the optimal slope level will be approximately 2 cm per linear meter pipes.
  • The toilet must be installed at the minimum possible distance from the connection point to the sewerage system.
  • It is not allowed to connect it to the sewer system together with any other plumbing device. The toilet connection point should be the lowest in the connection diagram.
  • To avoid sagging, on long sections a drain pipe is fixed in increments approximately equal to its 10 diameters. This requirement is especially relevant for flexible plastic products.
  • Full use of the device is not allowed until the sealant or cement has completely hardened. Neglecting this rule may negate all installation efforts and will require repeating the installation procedure.

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