Painting bathroom walls: tips for those who are holding a brush for the second time in their life. How to paint a bathtub with enamel at home? Is it worth painting the bathtub?

It gradually rusts, the paint peels off and it all looks completely unattractive. And despite this, the performance characteristics do not deteriorate in any way due to the condition of the coating. Therefore, in this case, it is best to renew the coating rather than replace plumbing fixtures. Moreover, such a procedure will hit your family budget much less than purchasing new bath. But not everyone knows what paint to paint cast iron bath so as to restore its presentable appearance for a long time. This is exactly what we will discuss in our article. Thanks to modern technologies, it is quite possible to apply a new layer of enamel to the bathtub. And you can even do this yourself.

Bathtub restoration before and after

Assess the actual condition of the equipment

Many consumers immediately decide to get rid of old bath and buy a new one. Is it necessary to take such a step and in what case? Of course, everything has its own service life. However, cast iron products can be used for decades without any defects or damage. Now let's do some math. After all, in case of replacement, you will have to spend money not only on new plumbing, but also on delivery, on dismantling old equipment, and if necessary, you will also need to pay for raising the bathtub to the floor. During this time, chips and damage to the floor or may appear. This means that this item will also need to be entered into the expenses column. The result is a tidy sum that can be saved if you just replace the enamel coating on the bathtub.

And if you still choose this option, you should consider the most popular methods of bathtub restoration. There are three types.

Acrylic coating

Despite the novelty of the method, it has already gained some popularity in its niche. Its essence is to apply a thin acrylic layer to the surface of cast iron. Acrylic is applied in a liquid state and carefully distributed over the area of the product. Why is this method so attractive?

Applying a thin acrylic layer to the surface of cast iron

First of all, your long term services. Such a coating, if applied correctly at a thickness of 0.6 cm, can last from eight to fifteen years.
Attractive appearance. The smooth glossy snow-white surface looks very beautiful and neat. Thanks to the thickness of the applied composition, all defects and irregularities are immediately hidden. Therefore, as a result, you can enjoy an almost perfectly smooth surface.
The composition is applied very simply and quickly. Therefore, you do not need to have any specific skills or knowledge to carry out such a procedure yourself.
It is absolutely not necessary to leave your home during restoration work with the bathroom, because the acrylic composition does not have unpleasant odor. He also does not carry negative impact on human health, including children and allergy sufferers.

However, not everything is as good as it might seem at first glance. One significant disadvantage is the drying time of the composition. It is at least three days. Not only will you not be able to use the bathroom during this period, but it is not even recommended to enter the bathroom room again. Any specks of dust, specks or debris that get into the solution during the drying period will remain there forever and will also spoil the surface. In addition, this technology is quite expensive, so not everyone can afford it. However, if you take into account the service life of the coating, this price is quite justified.

Acrylic insert for cast iron bathtub

It is somewhat similar to the previous method, but has one distinctive feature: instead of liquid acrylic, an acrylic blank is inserted into the cast-iron bathtub, which completely follows the shape of your bathtub. The workpiece is attached to a special adhesive. And the service life of such a coating will be about fifteen years. Many consumers also choose this method of bathtub restoration. Why?

Long service life. Fifteen years is quite an impressive period of time for which you can forget about new restoration bath coverings.
The new coating is characterized by increased strength, much higher than that of ordinary enamel.
Even after many years, the coating will remain as snow-white as on the first day, without turning yellow or gray.

Speaking about the disadvantages of this type of restoration, we can mention the need to remove the drain siphon. In addition, if the bathtub is made of thin cast iron, it will not be possible to install an acrylic insert into it. If the bathtub is thin, it may sag under the influence of weight. This, in turn, breaks the adhesive layer, as a result of which the entire structure can move.

Restoration using enamel

This method has been known for a very long time. Compared to the previous ones, it is the least expensive. That's why he's chosen greatest number consumers. This method is vaguely reminiscent of the painting procedure, only instead of paint a different composition is used - enamel. Therefore, when talking about this method, you can often hear the phrase: “Paint a cast-iron bathtub,” although in fact it means enameling.

Restoration using enamel

There are compositions intended for application by professionals and “amateurs”, that is, by those who do not have specific work skills, but want to restore the bathtub themselves. The first composition includes more fluid and, which need to be worked in several layers. This is the main difficulty, so we do not recommend beginners to take on such enamels. For everyone else, there are thicker coatings that will be much easier to apply. If you don’t know what paint to paint a cast-iron bathtub, consult a salesperson at a hardware store, he will definitely tell you.

Such compositions can restore the coating not only of cast iron, but also steel baths. In addition, it dries quickly enough, and will retain its functional and performance characteristics for about five years.

Disadvantages include yellowing of the coating over time, sensitivity to mechanical damage, and the inability to hide defects in the cast iron surface. Be prepared for the fact that the coating you make will be slightly different from the factory one.

However, if you follow certain rules for using a bathroom with a renewed coating, you will be able to maintain its presentable appearance for as long as possible. First of all, never use harsh abrasive scouring powders to clean the surface. Replace them with mild soap solutions, foams and gels. When filling the bath, be sure to turn on the cold water, and only after that gradually add hot. Try to treat the surface carefully, avoiding heavy sharp objects falling into the bath that could damage it.

We restore the bathtub with our own hands using enamel

If you decide to choose this method, first you need to objectively assess the condition of the bathtub. If there are significant chips or cracks on it, you may need to discard all ideas about restoration and fork out for the purchase of new plumbing fixtures. But if the surface is almost flat with invisible defects, it is quite possible to carry out restoration with enamel.

Restoring a bathtub using enamel

First you need to prepare the coating. To do this, you need to get rid of the old enamel. This must be done carefully enough so as not to damage the bath itself with deep grooves and scratches. Apply Pemolux or a similar product to the old enamel (note that it should not contain chlorine), clean it directly with this product using an abrasive stone. On final stage When preparing the surface, wash it well with water.
Irregularities and signs of corrosion must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased. Now you can fill the bath to the top hot water, let it stand for a while and drain. After this, you need to wipe the surface with a cloth or lint-free wipes.
The working composition is prepared from enamel and hardener. They need to be mixed with each other.
The first layer of coating is the primer. After it has dried, you can begin enameling with a second layer.

The whole process takes no more than three to four hours. And if this is your first time doing it, please note Special attention for the following details:

The surface must be as degreased as possible, otherwise all the work will be in vain.
You will also have to very carefully remove the old enamel, without missing a single centimeter of area.
Follow the instructions for use and dilution of the enamel, which are indicated on the packaging. You should not do this by eye, because in the future such enamel can chip off and very quickly become unusable.
A minimum of fifteen minutes should pass between applying the first and second coats.
The first layer should be quite thin.
You can also use enamel from a balloon for restoration. But in this case, it is necessary to avoid its dripping, and it is best to apply the composition at a distance of at least 25 cm from the surface of the cast iron.

Fill the entire surface of the bathtub

It is necessary to distinguish between the need to change the shade of the bathtub or to repair it. In the first case, we recommend using glass acrylic of the desired tone. It is enough just to fill the entire surface, and then the composition will work itself without your participation. If repairs are required, then there is no need to fill the entire bathtub with acrylic. Simply clean the damaged area and then apply liquid acrylic. All necessary equipment For such a procedure, you can find it in a special kit for repairing acrylic bathtubs. They are sold in almost all large hardware stores.

Tell us about your experience renovating bathtubs. What difficulties may newbies encounter? Leave your message in the comments below the article!

A cast iron bathtub is a symbol of the bygone Soviet era, when every apartment was equipped with this unpretentious, simple, but high-quality plumbing fixture. Some owners of “Stalinka” or “Khrushchev” buildings still use old-style washing containers, as they are of high quality, strength, and durability.

The service life of a cast iron bathtub is at least 50 years, however, time, as well as active use, leave their mark on its surface. Yellowing, chips, abrasions on the enamel spoil appearance bowls, but it is irrational to change it because of these small defects, because to restore the whiteness of the product, you can simply paint it with your own hands. In this article we will tell you what bath paint is used at home, as well as how the coloring is done.

Defects in old cast iron bathtubs

A cast iron bathtub has excellent performance characteristics, it retains heat for a long time and is sufficiently durable. A special feature of plumbing products made from this alloy is their heavy weight, which can reach 150 kg. This bowl can be used for more than 50 years, it will not lose its qualities, unlike modern acrylic and steel models. However, the service life of the enamel coating is much shorter; even with careful care, traces of intensive use remain on it:

Note! Even with analogues made of acrylic and steel, cast iron bathtubs are very popular because they have a long service life and durability. Replacement old container for washing on new model made from the same material will cost the homeowner 15-20 thousand rubles. Paint for a cast-iron bathtub can restore the whiteness and smoothness of the product for 3-5 times less if you work with your own hands.

Types of paints

It is logical to assume that painting at home is done with special paints. Strict requirements are imposed on coloring compositions: they must withstand constant contact with water, exposure to high and low temperatures, as well as strong detergents. To restore and restore the original appearance of an old bowl with your own hands, you need to select high-quality moisture-resistant paint that can be used to paint cast iron. Bath paint of this type comes in 2 varieties:

Important! The quality of coloring directly depends on the correct preparation of the compound. The base of the mixture has a viscous, thick consistency, and the hardener, on the contrary, is liquid. Therefore, in order to combine the components, it is necessary to mix them for a long time and thoroughly until a homogeneous fluid substance is formed.

Dyeing technology

The process at home with your own hands cannot be called simple. The technology consists of next stages: preparing the room, preparing the surface, preparing the compound, applying paint and drying. Preparatory work is considered the most labor-intensive operation, as it takes a lot of time and effort. The quality and durability of the new coating depends on the correct preparation of the surface. Painting is performed in the following sequence:

Experienced craftsmen say that the most important part of the technology for painting old cast iron bathtubs is drying. When painting is completed, the bathroom area is closed to prevent dust from entering. Polymerization of acrylic or epoxy enamel takes 3-7 days, during which it is not recommended to use the bathtub. For the first day it is better not to even enter the room. The more time passes from painting to the first wash, the more durable the coating will be.

Video instruction

Paint for a cast iron bathtub - simple and affordable option plumbing finishing. Painting the bathtub is distinguished by its simplicity of execution, significant wear resistance of the coating, as well as durability during subsequent use. Paint for painting a cast iron bathtub can vary in its chemical composition, method of application and quality of the material used.

The main advantages and disadvantages of coloring

This method of updating bathtubs has the following advantages:

Painting a cast iron bathtub costs much less compared to purchasing and installing new fixtures;
Wide variety of shades and colors paint and varnish materials allows you to bring any design ideas to life;
You can paint your cast iron bathtub yourself without involving specialists;
Surfaces treated with paint look original and aesthetically pleasing;
Painting a cast iron bathtub with your own hands does not take much time and effort.

However, along with the advantages of such a restoration, judging by many reviews, it is necessary to note the main disadvantages of the process:

Painting a cast-iron bathtub from the outside involves performing preliminary work before applying paint and varnish materials, which, in particular, includes leveling the surface of the bathtub, as well as applying a primer to the external and internal parts of the product;
Painting a cast iron bathtub is possible if the plumbing fixtures are pre-treated with antifungal emulsions;

Painting the inside of the bath

How to paint the inside of a cast iron bathtub? The materials used for applying paint to internal and external surfaces are significantly different. First, you need to determine what paint to paint the inside of the cast-iron bathtub.

Types of materials used:

liquid acrylic;
two-component epoxy resin;
spray paint;
Epoxy based paint.
1. Two-component epoxy resin and epoxy paint are used for application to surfaces with significant cracks and imperfections. Thanks to its thick consistency, painting cast-iron bathtubs with significant defects is easy; in some cases, there is not even a need to prime the inner surface of the plumbing fixtures. Before applying to the surface, such materials are diluted with solvents so that the consistency is not too thick.
2. Using liquid acrylic answers the question in the affirmative: is it possible to paint a cast iron bathtub? Acrylic has fairly high performance parameters, for this reason it can be used to paint the outside of a cast-iron bathtub. The decoration process itself takes only a couple of hours; to do this, you only need to dismantle the bathtub drain system and first degrease the surface of the plumbing.
3. How to paint a cast iron bathtub using an aerosol? Spray paints are very practical and easy to use. They are distinguished by high brightness and a large selection color palette. True, before applying this paint and varnish material, the inner surface of the plumbing equipment must be treated with a primer or two-component thick paint, because most often aerosols are used as finishing coating. Such materials dry very quickly and can penetrate into hard to reach places.

Choosing a material for painting the outside

How to paint the outside of a cast iron bathtub? If you are not confident in your abilities, you don’t have to deal with the treatment of plumbing surfaces yourself. Many companies provide painting services for plumbing fixtures with a quality guarantee. But if your bathtub, as in most cases, is not covered with tiles or a plastic screen, its external surface can be easily transformed with the help of bright and affordable paint materials.

Tip: So what can you use to paint the outside of a cast iron bathtub? For such purposes, it is best to use materials based on alkyd based thick consistency or in the form of a spray. In principle, two-component paints can also be used, as for the interior of plumbing fixtures.

It is better to limit yourself to an inexpensive alkyd waterproof material than to paint a cast-iron bathtub with expensive epoxy paint. This is beneficial for a number of reasons:

The external part of the plumbing equipment is not subject to significant impact, so the strength of alkyd paints and varnishes is quite sufficient for long-term use of plumbing equipment;
The price for these types of painting is significantly lower in comparison with materials for processing the internal surfaces of the product;
The paint is easy to apply and dries within 24 hours.

If the appearance of the bathtub has been slightly damaged during operation, it will be enough to clean the surface before painting with abrasive detergents. After that, the outer surface of the plumbing should be degreased for better adhesion of the paint to the cast iron cover.

In case of significant defects, the plumbing product must be treated with priming materials. Upon completion of this stage, you can proceed directly to painting the bathtub.

When using aerosol-based materials, it is better to apply at least a couple of layers of paint to the surface being treated, because such materials contain significant amount solvent, this makes the applied layers very thin.

Conclusion

As you can see, painting plumbing does not require special skills from a person, so this procedure can be completed independently. Of course, processing the inner surface of a product requires a large number of preparatory steps, but all of them are accessible and easy if all technological processes are followed. Therefore, everyone is able to create a non-trivial appearance of outdated plumbing fixtures, giving them a chance for a second life, and themselves the opportunity to realize design ideas.

The topic is of interest to many; it is generally accepted that painting a bathtub with enamel at home is the cheapest and most practical way to restore old coatings. The outer surface will not only be restored, but will also exceed the characteristics of enamel in many respects. In order to understand the issue and accept correct solution by recovery methods external coverings baths, you need to know what real enamel is, how surfaces are coated and whether it is possible to obtain an identical layer at home, even using the most expensive materials.

By physical properties resembles a glass-like coating fused to the metal surface of the bathtub. Its physical properties are similar to glass, but have increased strength. Has a slightly lower coefficient thermal expansion than metal, thereby eliminating the risk of delamination during heating of the base, the strength reaches 350 MPa.

On iron, it is first applied to a primer coating, and then enamel - the adhesion coefficient increases. The color changes due to additives: blue color - cobalt oxide, green color– copper oxide, White color– magnesium carbonate. Annealing temperature up to +900°C. At such temperatures, the glass melts, turns into a dense, homogeneous layer and firmly adheres to the surface of the bath. Only such a coating has the right to be called enamel.

People of the older generation remember very well how, during the times of developed socialism and general prosperity, it was impossible to buy natural coffee; it was “obtained through connections.” But all the store shelves were filled with barley coffee. The advertisement claimed that it was much better than natural, it contained a large number of vitamins and other useful substances, the taste is no different, just as invigorating, etc. Although in fact this ersatz product was a little reminiscent of natural coffee only in color.

Conclusion. From a physical point of view, enamels do not exist in cans and jars. These are ordinary paints with the addition of performance-improving fillers. This is exactly how you should view a bathtub renovation; you will be working not with enamel, but with various types paints Their choice is wide, there are many varieties.

Types of enamel for bath restoration

Now you can begin to consider what paints are called enamel, what are the differences, what advantages and disadvantages they have. This information will help you decide on a specific choice of paint (enamel).

Name	Brief characteristics
	Used to cover bathtubs for over 15 years, it consists of epoxy resin, fillers and hardener. It has high hardness and good adhesion properties. The coating is not afraid of aggressive chemical compounds, the outer surface is glossy. Disadvantages - due to toxicity, safety regulations must be followed, after preparation there is a limited time for use, poor quality epoxy paints under the influence ultraviolet rays become yellow.
	Drying time is no more than thirty minutes, has good adhesion to natural enamel. Available in cans, which greatly simplifies the application process. Main disadvantage– the durability of the coating leaves much to be desired, the bathtub will have to be repainted until a new one is installed. The frequency of repainting largely depends on the accuracy of the technology. It is not uncommon for detachments to appear within a month or two.
	There are names like “latex enamel”, “liquid acrylic”, but in fact it is a two-component polyurethane paint. Performance indicators are at an average level, correct application and use increases the service life up to ten years.
	Ordinary water-dispersed waterproof paint with ordinary characteristics. The worst choice for bathtub interior linings of all. But in terms of price and manufacturability, it is the most affordable.

Reaflex 50 - Reaflex 50

Bath enamel "Renaissance"

You need to choose the type of coverage based on your own wishes and financial capabilities. Do not forget that the quality and durability of the coating depends not only on the materials, but also on the professionalism of the contractor.

Practical advice. We recommend using this method of restoring bathtubs for temporary residences. The less often you use the bathtub, the longer the coating will last. There is no need to explain why such a dependence exists.

Tools

Once you have decided on a specific brand of enamel, you need to prepare the tools. They will be needed to clean the bathtub and protect adjacent surfaces from paint.

Electric drill. Power does not matter; with its help, surfaces are cleaned of solid deposits. But do not take it heavier, it is difficult to hold in your hands, there is a risk of leaving deep marks from abrasive tools.
Sandpaper. The numbers are different, from 80 to 200. Coarse-grained will be used to remove dirt, fine-grained will smooth out scratches from abrasive material. Do not remove hard deposits with wire brushes; they will leave black marks on the surface. It is very difficult to get rid of them. Metal brushes only clean rust on metal, not enamel.
In the photo - coarse sandpaper
Rubber Grinding Wheel. Sanding paper with a diameter of no more than 15 cm is attached to it. With a large circle it is difficult to clean deposits in the bends of the bathtub. Another nuance - do not use too hard ones; the thickness of the rubber is within two millimeters.
Degreasers (acetone, solvents), caustic soda, acidic detergents. There is no need to skimp on degreasers. Oily surfaces are the main enemy high-quality coating. If unevenness spoils the appearance of the coating, then greasy surfaces cause its peeling. You will have to repair or completely repaint the surface.
Tassels. Don't use cheap ones; hairs fall out of them and stick to the paint. It is difficult to remove them; if you did not notice them in time and the paint has already dried, then it is impossible without a trace. Be sure to take all measures to remove loose hairs before use. Press the brush firmly onto the surface and move it in different directions. First, the brush should be dry, and then dip it into the paint. If hairs are constantly coming out of it, then it is better to buy a new one of better quality.
Personal respiratory protection. Some paints and degreasers are so toxic that working without a respirator is prohibited. Will also be required latex gloves. Problems may arise if the bathtub is painted in a residential apartment. Take all measures to ensure that fumes do not spread to other rooms; for ventilation, use only the existing ventilation in the bathtub. Leave the room while drying.
With its help, surfaces are protected from paint.
If you have to remove the siphon, you will need screwdriver. The siphon elements do not need to be dismantled. We will tell you how to protect them from paint in the article below.
Mixer. Needed for high-quality mixing of two-component enamels. No store-bought ones - use homemade ones. It can be made from a piece of wire approximately 35–40 cm long. Bend the lower end into a P shape and clamp the upper end into the chuck. This mixer works just as well purchased device. And in the case of mixing paints, it’s even better. The fact is that factory copies form air bubbles during mixing, and this is bad. Homemade has no such drawback. True, they will have to work longer, but the volumes of paint are small and the increase in time is not critical.

Think about what enamels you will use to cover the bathtub and purchase paints from the right amount. That's all, now you can start the actual work.

Surface preparation

The better the surface of the bathtub is prepared, the more reliable the coating will be. Even the most expensive enamel will fall off after several baths if gross deviations from the recommended technology are allowed during coating.

Step 1. Inspect the condition of the bath, select a cleaning algorithm. It is best to use sandpaper; with its help you can not only remove hard deposits of rust, but also level the surface. Enamel paints cover the surface thin layer, all the tubercles will be visible through it. You can only tighten up uneven areas at the bottom, and even then manufacturers do not recommend pouring one thick layer of paint, but applying several thin ones. Such features place increased demands on surfaces. The exception is epoxy and acrylic enamels. They are poured in a layer up to 2 mm thick, this is enough for the final leveling of surfaces with paints.

Step 2. Place 80-grit sandpaper on the sanding wheel and begin sanding away any hard deposits and rust. There is no need to press the tool too hard against the surface; it is better to make several passes over one place. The work is dusty, close the door and window to the bathroom, otherwise drafts will carry dust throughout all rooms. Do not rub the enamel down to the metal, do not leave deep marks after passing grinding wheel. It is advisable to work in a respirator.

Step 3. Clean the surface from dust; you can use a soft, dry cloth or vacuum cleaner. Inspect the surfaces again and correct problem areas.

Step 4. In order for the outer surface of the bath to be perfectly smooth, you need to sand it. Work with sandpapers with a number above 100, select specific values taking into account the depth of the scratches. Don't expect the paint to spread and hide all the imperfections, it won't. Especially if you cover surfaces with a spray can.

Important. Polishing the walls of the bathtub is strictly prohibited. If some areas of the bathtub did not require cleaning and remained perfectly smooth, then they need to be manually wiped with Scotch Brite. The grain size of the material is from P180 to P1000. To make it easier to determine the grain size, it has various colors. Green (the roughest), used to treat the surface of the bathtub before applying putty to chipped areas of enamel. Red for primer, gray for finishing coat of paint. To increase adhesion, each dried layer of paint should be wiped with Scotch Brite. This lengthens the process a little, but significantly improves the quality. Don’t be lazy, it’s better to do everything according to technology right away than to repaint the bathtub later.

At the end of the work, carefully remove any remaining dust; the bathtub should be perfectly clean before painting. Avoid drafts, as they cause dust to appear on cleaned surfaces and paint.

Step 5. Vacuum the surface very thoroughly; a cloth will not remove fine dust from micro-scratches after sanding or wiping with Scotch Brite.

Step 6. Degrease the surface of the bathtub.

You can use special solutions or ordinary solvents. Follow safety precautions, these substances are very toxic. Ventilate and, if possible, ventilate the room, work in a respirator and rubber gloves.

Repairing enamel chips

This operation must be performed in mandatory. Why? Firstly, paint will not hide the difference in height, especially on the side surfaces of the bathtub. Secondly, bath paint (enamel) is designed for adhesion to natural enamel; the coefficient of adhesion to metal is low; in these places it will quickly peel off.

Used for embedding automotive materials himself High Quality, work with finishing putty.

Mix the components in portions on a metal spatula and apply to the bath with a rubber spatula. The surface must first be cleaned from rust to pure iron using sandpaper or a metal brush. Next, dust is removed from the surface, enamel around problem area processed with green scotch-brite. Try to apply the putty evenly, this will make further sanding much easier.

If there are cracks in the enamel, they must first be cleaned with the tip of a thin knife. Don't be discouraged if the enamel chips away at the edges, this is good. It will break off anyway, only after that you will have to repair the bath again. It goes without saying that before applying putty, the surfaces must be degreased.

Video - Puttying chips on a restored bathtub

Surface protection

Protect adjacent surfaces from paint as much as possible. This is much faster and easier to do than later removing dried paint. Tape it up masking tape perimeter around the bathtub, protect the decorative screen, cover the floor with film or newspapers.

There is another quick one effective method protecting surfaces from paint. They are carefully lubricated with technical Vaseline or ordinary grease. There is no need to apply a thick layer, tenths of a millimeter are enough. The main thing is that the lubricant does not touch the surface being painted. After finishing the work, Vaseline or grease is removed with a rag, the surfaces remain in their original form.

Check how dry the surface of the bathtub is. Completely dry - start painting with enamel.

Use only special brands of bath paint; they are more expensive, but provide better adhesion to the enamel surface.

Painting with enamel from a can

Important. If painting is done a few days after preparing the bath, be sure to thoroughly vacuum the surface again. The dust may be invisible to the naked eye, but underneath the paint will have tiny bubbles and will certainly peel off in the future. In addition, dirt accumulates faster on the surface around the bumps and they become noticeable.

Step 1. Buy special bath paint. It is advisable to take one cylinder in reserve, it will always come in handy later.

Step 2. Read the instructions for use and strictly follow all the manufacturer’s recommendations. Shake the container. There is a metal ball inside, it should make the contents uniform in consistency.

Step 3. Put on a respirator and decide on the painting sequence. It is better to start from the bottom surface of the sides, these are the most difficult to reach places. Next, move to the side surfaces and end with the bottom. The distance from the can nozzle to the surface is approximately 10 cm. Movements should be smooth and without stopping. Do not leave gaps, do not allow drips. The paint dries quickly and it is impossible to remove streaks. Even after high-quality sanding and repainting, marks will remain.

Step 4. Apply the first coat of paint and allow time to dry.

There are two methods for increasing adhesion between layers of paint.

The first layer should not be completely dry before applying the second. How to find out? Carefully run your fingertips over the paint; it should “squeak” a little; your fingers will barely noticeably slow down. If you apply a second layer on it, the connection between them will improve significantly. Only experienced painters can do this; if you are doing this for the first time in your life, then it is better not to risk it.
Give plenty of time to dry. Next, it is recommended to use Scotch Brite. You can buy it in specialized automotive stores or from station employees Maintenance. Buy Scotch Brite gray, it is used under finishing layer. The material leaves microscopic scratches on the surface, which are invisible to the eye. But due to them, the surface area increases significantly, and the adhesion strength of the next layer increases significantly.

Practical advice. Use Scotch Brite to cover the entire surface, leaving no gaps. Monitor treated surfaces carefully. We have already said that it is impossible to visually distinguish cleaned surfaces from unprotected ones. It is better to walk over the surface of the bath three to four times; this will take no more than ten minutes.

Step 5. Apply the following layers of paint using the same algorithm. We recommend painting the bathroom three times, each layer with a minimum thickness. It must be remembered that the thickness of the paint does not have a decisive influence on the adhesion strength. If the first layer is applied to a poorly prepared and poorly degreased surface, the paint will definitely peel off. The thickness of the layer slightly increases protection from water, but the coating will crack at the slightest mechanical force. It is almost impossible for non-professionals to make invisible repairs at home. Such work can be done by high-class craftsmen.

Painting with two-component enamel with a brush

The surface of the bath is prepared as described above. You can use a small roller for painting, but you still can’t do without a brush. With its power, hard-to-reach areas are finished. In addition, you need to use a brush to go where the bathtub adjoins the walls, and carefully handle the drain and overflow holes. And one more problem with the roller. The paint must be poured into a special flat container, and a large surface area speeds up the drying process. You will have to work very quickly, and this will lead to defects. We are specifically considering the most complex option – two-component paints. This can be acrylic or epoxy paints. There is no fundamental difference in application technology, we will not dwell on this. You can pour paints, but you can’t do without a brush or roller. You will have to fill in the gaps, remove excess material from the bottom, and paint the sides on the bottom and sides. These surfaces cannot be flooded. But not only for these reasons we recommend using a brush. With its help, you can obtain a layer of equal thickness, save material, and speed up the hardening process. We will tell you step-by-step instructions for working with a brush.

Step 1. Prepare two-component bath enamel. Follow the instructions, mix the hardener with the base in the required proportion.

Important. Prepare only the amount of paint that you can use within 40–50 minutes; after an hour, the composition will begin to harden under the influence of chemical reactions.

Mix very thoroughly for at least 5 minutes. It is difficult to work by hand; it is better to use a drill with a special mixer. Reduce the speed of the cartridge; too fast rotation causes the formation of air bubbles, which will then have to be dealt with.

Step 2. Place the container with the prepared paint in the bath, prepare a brush, and remove loose hairs from it. The width of the brush is approximately five centimeters. It is quite convenient to work with; all adjacent surfaces can be carefully traced. If the container with paint is in the bath, it will not accidentally tip over, and less paint will fall on the floor. Pour the mixture onto the sides and sides of the bathtub and let it drain. Now you need to paint the bottom and side surfaces sides, eliminate gaps and process the bottom. Some areas cannot be filled, and some take a long time. Now it’s better to work with a brush.

Step 3. Wet the brush with paint no more than 1/3 of the way. Remove excess paint on the side of the container. To completely eliminate paint dripping, keep the brush in a horizontal position and constantly rotate it slowly around its axis. Do this until you begin to paint the surface of the bathtub. The brush handle should be perpendicular to the surface being painted or at a slight angle.

Step 4. When painting vertical surfaces, start at the top and work down. In this way, the walls of the bathtub are better covered, the paint flows down itself, the brush only smears it, making it the same thickness. If the marks are very deep, then they need to be slightly leveled by moving the tip of the brush in a horizontal direction.

Step 5. Constantly monitor the appearance of sagging and drips, and if found, immediately level them. You need to level it with horizontal movements of the tip of the brush. If the influx is pulled up, then through certain time he will appear again.

Step 6. You need to treat the bathtub with two-component paints at a time, calculate your strength, control the time. Proceed to the bottom only after the sides and vertical surfaces have been painted.

Step 7 Remove the paint container and place it on the floor. Choose a place in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of it tipping over.

Step 8 When moving the brush from the container on the floor to the bottom of the bath, do not forget to keep it in a horizontal position and constantly rotate. Start painting from a clean surface and move towards the drain hole. Smooth out paint that is too thick. Don't be afraid if there are small brush marks left, they will disappear after a short time.

The quality of painting largely depends on its thickness. Keep in mind that the technology for painting a bathtub is somewhat different from treating wooden surfaces. The fact is that wood quickly absorbs paint, but the surface of the bathtub does not. Accordingly, you need to take less material onto the brush and more carefully even out the thickness. The number of layers depends on the type of bath enamel. With two-component compositions, the bathtub is covered with one layer 1–2 mm thick. The second is applied only in case of marriage. One-component paints are applied in two to three layers, each thickness no more than 0.5 mm.

Treat the process with great responsibility. Restoring a bathtub with enamel paints is already not very reliable; the service life of such coatings leaves much to be desired. And if you don’t follow the technology, it won’t last even a month. You will have to repair (traces will remain), completely remove the paint with sandpaper (long and dusty) or buy new bath(optimal output). Which option to choose - decide for yourself, we only give advice and step by step instructions technological process. Using the instructions, you can significantly increase the service life of a restored bath with minimal financial losses.

How to extend the use of a painted bathtub

If you follow the rules for using a bathroom renovated in this way, the paint can remain intact for several years.

Do not soak laundry in the bathtub. Moreover, do not add washing powder to the water.
Wash the surface only with laundry soap, do not use aggressive detergents.
Do not leave the bath water on long time, do not fill it with very hot water.
Do not place too much faith in the manufacturer's advertising about the durability of the enamel coating. In absolutely all performance indicators, they are many times worse than classic enamel.

Bottom line. If you want the paint not to fall off after a few months, treat the coating very carefully.

Decorating the interior surfaces of the bath

If your water does not meet the quality requirements and has a lot of divalent iron ions, then noticeable rusty spots will certainly appear on the surface of the white bathtub. It is impossible to prevent their appearance, you can only delay it a little. In order for the surface of the bathtub not to lose its attractiveness for a long time, it is not necessary to paint it white; add different colors to the paint and make the bathtub blue, green, etc. If you want, create a unique and original external and internal surface. This will take a lot of time, but the result will exceed your wildest expectations. By the way, in such a bath the defect becomes less noticeable.

How can you decorate your bath?

Drawings

Can you draw? Great. Buy multi-colored acrylic paints and a set of brushes. Draw sea themes, various fish, algae, etc. The complexity of the drawing is limited only by your talent and desires. Subsequently, the drawings must be coated with a protective varnish. We will tell you how this is done and what varnishes to use below.

The option is simpler and anyone can do it. You can buy a stencil in a store; today the choice is quite wide, both in theme and size. Choose single-color (easier) or multi-color options (more difficult to work with). There is no possibility to purchase ready-made stencils– cut them out yourself from thick paper.

How to apply a design to the surface of a bathtub using a stencil?

Attach the prepared stencil to the wall of the bathtub. There are several methods of fixation.

First. Masking tape. It's quick and easy to do, but paint may leak into the gap between the stencil and the surface of the bathtub. We recommend using this method only for the bottom of the bathtub.
Second. Using contact spray adhesive. It is sprayed evenly over the entire outer surface of the stencil and polymerizes after 2 minutes. The composition adheres firmly to the stencil, and the outer surface is sticky for a long time. Do not rush to immediately glue the stencil to the surface; let the composition completely polymerize. Everything is ready - glue the stencil, carefully level it with a dry cloth or sponge. After the paint dries, the stencil peels off, leaving no traces on the paint surface. An excellent method, it allows you to glue stencils on the curves of the bathtub, completely eliminating paint leakage.

Paint can get into the cracks for several reasons: it is too thin or too much, using a large brush to apply. To obtain a high-quality drawing, do not put a lot of paint on the brush, gently touch the surface of the bath. Move the brush away from the edge of the stencil.

You can also use a sponge. Gently touch the surface of the sponge soaked in paint to the areas to be painted, making only back-and-forth movements. It is strictly forbidden to move the sponge from left to right. If you apply complex multi-colored designs, then you can start the second one only after the first one has completely dried. When fixing the stencil, carefully ensure that the general lines of the drawings completely coincide. A multi-colored design can be done with one stencil, but this will require extreme caution. If there are small multi-colored elements, then to paint them in different colors you need to use professional artist brushes.

Decoupage

It is recommended to do with outside baths, but you can try to decorate the inner surface in this way. The decoupage technique is simple - cut out any designs you like and glue them to the surfaces of the bathtub. The only requirement is that the paper on which there are drawings must be as thin as possible. Otherwise, they will rise above the surface; although this is uncritical, it is ugly.

There are a large number of waterproof varnishes on sale; all manufacturers promise “ high stability" But practice shows that they cannot be used for bathtubs; after just a few months of using the bathtub, they first develop microcracks, then these cracks increase, the edges of the varnish bend upward and break off. The result of this process is that the bathtub needs to be completely redone or completely thrown away. Both options cannot be considered satisfactory.

To avoid such an unpleasant situation, buy a special one on the Internet yacht varnish, it costs approximately twice as much as usual. But it's not big financial problem, you don’t need to buy a bucket of varnish, half a liter jar is enough. Varnishing is necessary not only to protect the design, it additionally increases the time you can use the bathtub. Thanks to excellent physical characteristics the surface does not change its original appearance for a long time.

Types of yacht varnishes

Names	Composition and brief performance characteristics
Akidlak	Made on an alkyd base, one-component, used as additional protection between layers of paint. Does not react to detergents, complete drying time is at least 16 hours.
Aurlak	Made on an alkyd-urethane base, withstands average mechanical loads, drying time is 8 hours. Resistant to various chemical compounds, including aggressive ones. Recommended for coating the internal surfaces of bathtubs.
Aurlak Express	Made on an alkyd-urethane base, drying time is reduced to two hours. Abrasion resistance is lower than that of Aurlak.
Polyurlak	Two-component, high physical indicators strength, resistant to all chemical compounds. Dries in 45 minutes.

yacht varnish

Their implementation will improve the quality of painting.

Video - How to paint a bathtub with enamel

Replacing plumbing equipment is a rather labor-intensive and expensive process, because it is accompanied not only by the dismantling of old plumbing, but also by damage to the masonry decorative tiles in the bathroom. A good alternative would be to spray paint the bathtub. Now exists big choice not only paint and varnish materials, but also methods for restoring plumbing equipment.

To facilitate the selection of the optimal restoration method, it is worth considering technological process each of them, telling in detail how to quickly paint a bathroom with your own hands.

Basic methods of restoring plumbing equipment

There are many methods for restoring enamel coatings that can significantly extend the life of plumbing fixtures, in particular, these include:

the “fill bath” method, which uses liquid acrylic;
surface enameling;
installation of acrylic liners.

The latter option involves the installation of ready-made equipment in the bathtub by specialists, so this type of restoration of plumbing fixtures on your own is not recommended, because improper installation of the acrylic insert can lead to cracks.

Bathroom painting is done in different ways using a variety of materials, among which the most common are:

epoxy enamel;
spray paint;
two-component epod resin;
liquid acrylic

Painting an old bathtub is a troublesome process, but big number Positive reviews indicate the important advantages and accessibility of the main painting methods.

Pros of do-it-yourself restoration:

low cost compared to buying new plumbing;
the ability to independently restore plumbing equipment;
choice of paint in any color scheme.

Methods of applying various paints to the surface

Modern market finishing materials is able to offer the consumer a large assortment paint and varnish products of both domestic and foreign production. Each type of paint will differ not only in its composition and quality, but also in the method of application to the surface. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the main types of enamels and paints for the restoration of plumbing fixtures.

We use epoxy at home

How to paint a bathtub with epoxy at home? Quick-drying epoxy enamel is a two-component product that is mixed with a hardener before being applied to the surface. Using this material will cost you much less than liquid acrylic, and when proper care the coating can last at least seven years. To understand how to properly paint a bathtub using epoxy, you need to consider the main subtleties of the method.

The preparatory steps before painting are carried out as follows:

Remove paint;
- Let's answer the question of how to remove paint in the bathroom. First, you will need to thoroughly clean the surface of the plumbing fixtures using an abrasive stone or a grinder with a metal flat attachment.
- If you don't have special tools, the question of how to remove paint from a bathtub can be solved using ordinary sandpaper. True, in this case preparatory stage It will take a lot of effort from you, but you will achieve the desired result.

Important! When using an angle grinder, you need to be extremely careful, because if the walls of the plumbing fixtures are thin, there is a possibility of “grinding” the bathtub right through. Therefore, before removing paint from the bathroom, adequately assess your strength and the thickness of the plumbing equipment.

Degreasing the surface;
- Many people do not know how to degrease a bathtub before painting, and why it is necessary. The fact is that any paint or enamel adheres better to a degreased surface, and this, in turn, guarantees the durability of the resulting coating. Therefore, this stage of plumbing processing cannot be ignored.
- For degreasing, undiluted alcohol or acetone is often used; they need to carefully treat the inner surface of the plumbing fixtures.
Drying the bath. After preparatory work, you need to dry the bathtub. To speed up the process, you can use a regular household hair dryer. Preparing a bathtub for painting is not that difficult; you can do it yourself.

All of these steps are standard and therefore must be performed before applying any type of paint. The video demonstrates how to remove paint from a bathtub, how to degrease it and check the quality of work, as well as how to prime and dry a bathtub.

Epoxy painting

Subsequent treatment of the bathtub involves the direct application of paint to the previously prepared surface of the sanitary ware. Before application, the enamel composition is mixed with a hardener, the contents are thoroughly mixed for 5-7 minutes until the mass becomes homogeneous.

Apply epoxy paint to the plumbing fixtures using a roller or a medium-soft brush. Two-component compositions such as epoxy and epoxy resin make it possible to obtain good coverage with the elimination of minor defects due to the significant density of materials.

Help: Also, before applying it to plumbing fixtures, it is necessary to prevent the enamel from getting into the siphon; to do this, the hole is tightly closed, or the siphon is removed before starting the restoration.

Filling bath method

This method of restoring plumbing involves the use of liquid acrylic. Painting a hot tub with acrylic will be somewhat more difficult due to the special method of applying the material to plumbing fixtures.

When applying the polyurethane composition, brushes or rollers are not used; it is literally poured onto the sides of the plumbing fixtures.

Important! It is necessary to dismantle the siphon before processing, because acrylic hardens quite quickly and therefore can clog the drain. It is necessary to place a container under the hole into which excess material will drain.

After liquid acrylic is applied to the walls of the bathtub, using rubber spatula it is necessary to evenly distribute the composition along the bottom of the plumbing, displacing its remains in drainer. If the bathtub is painted in compliance with all technological conditions, the coating will last at least ten years.

Use of automotive paints

In addition to the above materials, you can paint the bathtub with car paint, but this coating will last you no more than two years if carefully maintained and used. Most often, this method is used by people living in rented apartments. Because spray painting a bathtub is beneficial only if the duration of use of the plumbing fixtures does not play a significant role.

Before removing paint in the bathroom, you need to very thoroughly rinse the surface of the plumbing fixtures, treating it with abrasive detergents. Deep cracks and chips need to be filled with putty, because car paint is applied in a thin layer and therefore cannot hide surface defects. Painting a bathtub from a spray can is very simple, but due to the insufficient thickness of the material, layers will have to be applied at least three to four times. It is necessary to spray the paint at a distance of approximately 25-30 cm, this will allow you to obtain even layers without smudges or streaks.

Spray painting bathtubs is not limited to automotive paints. In cans you can purchase both latex and two-component enamel compositions for the restoration of plumbing surfaces. Before you paint old bath, you need to shake the can thoroughly, then spray the paint evenly with smooth movements onto the surface of the product.

Conclusion

The range of painting materials for restoring plumbing fixtures is constantly expanding. Therefore, choosing for yourself the best option for restoring products from a wide variety of products is quite simple. But no matter what you use as a coating, you always need to remember how to paint a bathtub correctly. After all, it is strict adherence to the process technology that guarantees the long service life of plumbing equipment.