Ceiling made of lining: types, design ideas, color, figured design, lighting. How to make a ceiling from lining with your own hands Ceiling lined with euro lining

Finishing the ceiling with clapboard is at the same time beautiful, practical and functional solution for any room. Let's consider the advantages and disadvantages, secrets of choice and step-by-step technology installation wooden lining with your own hands.

The content of the article:

The modern range of ceiling cladding materials is very extensive and varied. Along with plastic panels and plasterboard sheets, the most current cladding options include profiled boards made of natural wood. It is not difficult to explain the popularity of finishing the ceiling with clapboard: it is absolutely environmentally friendly, beautiful and easy to install and subsequently maintain.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing the ceiling with clapboard

Ceiling cladding with panels made of natural wood is rightfully considered a classic of the construction genre. Compared to competitive finishing materials, lining has many undeniable advantages:

Excellent performance . Wood finishes are strong, reliable and durable. With proper pre-installation preparation and proper subsequent care, it will last at least 12-15 years.
Ecological cleanliness. Unlike synthetic “relatives”, cladding made from natural lining is not only harmless, but also useful for the inhabitants of the home. Thanks to its hygroscopic properties, wood is able to purify the air and normalize the level of humidity in the room.
Ease of installation. Distinctive feature finishing profiled board - the presence of special grooves and ridges. Thanks to these structural elements Ceiling cladding is done easily and quickly, even without the assistance of assistants.
Practicality and functionality. Covering the ceiling base with clapboard allows you to disguise minor flaws and flaws made during construction or repair. In addition, behind the coating of decorative panels you can hide electrical wiring, pipes, ventilation ducts, sound or heat insulating layer.
Aesthetic appearance . A ceiling made of wooden lining looks good, stylish and impressive and, importantly, it is compatible with almost any room design.
Construction budget savings. Using natural boards for ceiling cladding, you can save a lot on the purchase of starting and finishing finishing materials - plaster, putty, paint, wallpaper, etc.

The disadvantages of this finish include the following:

Proper cladding of the ceiling with clapboard implies the mandatory construction of frame sheathing. Constructions of this type noticeably “steal” the height of the living space.
The next disadvantage of wooden cladding is its low level fire safety. To protect the material from the destructive and dangerous effects of fire, before installation work it is carefully treated with protective flame retardant compounds.
It is worth considering that natural lining, valued for its strength and durability, can slightly change its geometric parameters and become deformed due to incorrect use or careless maintenance.

Criteria for choosing lining for ceiling finishing

Wooden cladding boards are presented on the construction market in a huge assortment. To decide on the choice of this material, you should have a clear understanding of its varieties and properties. The main criteria by which modern lining is distinguished include the type of wood used, its grade and section profile.

Type of wood when choosing lining for the ceiling

Traditionally, coniferous or hardwood wood is used to make lining:

Coniferous wood. This category includes pine, spruce, fir, larch and cedar. Products made from the listed raw materials are practical, durable and resistant to moisture and fungi, so they can be used for finishing ceilings in both residential and commercial buildings. utility rooms. The only thing is that such lining is not recommended for internal lining saunas and baths, since with a sharp increase in temperature, aromatic coniferous wood releases copious amounts of resinous substances that can provoke spontaneous combustion of the material.
Hardwood. This category includes oak, beech, ash, aspen, alder and linden. This wood lends itself perfectly machining, tinting and artificial aging techniques. Due to its high decorative value, it is suitable for covering indoor ceilings for various purposes- from terraces and balconies to bedrooms and children's rooms. Distinctive property leaf material - resistance to temperature fluctuations and dampness. That is why ceilings made of this type of lining are often installed in rooms with high and variable humidity.

Classes of lining for ceiling finishing

A separate topic is the assortment of linings. Depending on the quality of the original wood, all molded lumber is divided into several classes:

Class "A". Lumber marked with this marking is characterized by the presence of small single knots and small non-through cracks. It is worth noting that, according to established standards, the listed defects are allowed only in invisible areas and areas (back side and end part of the board).

Class "B". Lining belonging to this class has noticeable roughness and imperfections, shallow longitudinal grooves and resin bags. On the front surface of such products you can find traces of mechanical impact - chips, scratches, nicks and burrs.

Class "C". Lumber of the last class includes edged boards with noticeable mechanical damage and pronounced wood defects - extensive knots, short through cracks, spots of contrasting shades and exposed resin pockets.

Note! For finishing cladding of ceilings in residential premises, experts recommend using lining of the first two classes. As for materials marked “B” and “C”, it is better to use them to create an intermediate frame or rough filing.

Wood profile when choosing lining for ceiling finishing

Depending on the type of profile connection, all wooden lining intended for finishing ceilings and other surfaces in residential premises is divided into regular and “euro”. The first one is cheaper than the second one, but at the same time it is significantly inferior to it in terms of configuration and processing quality:

European-style lining differs from traditional lining in its correct geometry, as well as a more complex and deep tongue-and-groove connection, which prevents the formation of gaps between adjacent boards even with significant temperature and humidity changes.
An important difference between European and classic lining is in humidity indicators. During the production process, the first one undergoes mandatory drying in automated chambers, due to which the wood acquires the necessary strength and ductility.
The next argument in favor of eurolining is the presence of special ventilation ducts that act as air ducts and are responsible for the complete outflow of accumulated condensate.

Technology for installing lining on the ceiling with your own hands

Covering the ceiling with a wooden board is a task feasible for any interested craftsman. Thanks to convenient locking connections, assembly of the facing sheet is quick and extremely simple. Let's take a closer look at how to attach the lining to the ceiling to make the finish beautiful and durable.

Preparatory work before finishing the ceiling with clapboard

At the first stage of work, a number of certain preparatory activities:

To start with base ceiling delete old cladding and finishing materials. The surface is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust. Small cracks found in the floor slab are sealed with a putty mixture, deep cracks are opened using a grinder and concreted with cement-sand mortar.
To prevent biological damage wood finishing, the prepared base must be coated with a deep penetration antiseptic compound. The ceiling is primed in two stages using a fluffy roller equipped with telescopic rod. The recommended time interval between the first and second application of the protective emulsion is 2-3 hours.
At the same stage of work, the lining purchased for finishing the ceiling is freed from the packaging wrapper, sorted and laid out in one layer on a flat horizontal surface in the room being installed. This simple procedure will help prevent cracking, warping and shrinkage of the purchased material.

Marking the surface for installing lining on the ceiling

At this stage of work it is necessary to prepare for subsequent arrangement frame system and correctly mark the ceiling surface. The main purpose of the marking is to determine the horizontal, indicating the plane of location of the wooden trim, and to draw parallel lines on all walls around the perimeter of the room.

It is most convenient to mark the ceiling using a laser tool, but as an alternative, it is permissible to use a regular building level. Using the latter, they determine the lowest point of the base base and, starting from it, make marks on the walls around the perimeter of the room.

To apply a closed outline, use a marker or paint cord. It is important that the laid line converges at a single point, and any displacements indicate errors in the marking process.

The height of the interceiling space should not only mask the unevenness and errors of the floor slab, but also allow the free installation of all communications, insulating materials and built-in lighting devices. As a rule, when finishing with clapboard, the ceiling is lowered by no more than 7-10 cm.

Arranging a frame for a lining ceiling

Upon completion of the marking work, construction of the supporting frame begins. To make the sheathing, use metal profiles or planed beams with a cross-section of 50x50 mm. Here you can immediately use substandard lining discovered during sorting. The main thing to remember is that everything wooden elements frame structure subject to mandatory antiseptic treatment.

Let's consider more rules arrangement of a frame for a lining ceiling:

Install the sheathing, according to the markings, in a direction perpendicular to the position of the future facing sheet. With longitudinal fastening of the lining, the frame strips are fixed across the room; with transverse fastening of wooden cladding, the frame is mounted along the room.
The prepared elements of the supporting structure are fixed in the following order: first, the edging slats are attached, then the intermediate ones. To fix the sheathing parts, dowels and screws are used.
Optimal distance between adjacent rows of the frame system - 30-40 cm. To avoid the possibility of sagging of the facing fabric, the structure is additionally strengthened with the help of transverse jumpers or hangers.
During the construction process, the sheathing is periodically checked for flatness. If necessary, all errors are corrected using placed bars or pegs of appropriate sizes.

Note! Before installing the lining, all cables, wiring, bases of built-in lamps, as well as heat and sound insulating materials are carefully laid in the under-ceiling space.

Attaching the lining to the ceiling

Next, they move on to the direct cladding of the frame structure. To quickly and reliably form a lining ceiling with your own hands, the panels are fastened using hidden metal clamps. Such fixing elements are both invisible and reliable: on the one hand they are attached to the underside of the finishing board, on the other - to the sheathing.

Installation wood panels start from one of the corners of the room, while technological gaps (up to 10 mm) must be left between the walls and the outer planks for possible thermal expansion material and unobstructed ventilation in the ceiling niche.
The first plank is attached on both sides to the frame beams using furniture stapler. The second board is inserted at a slight angle into the grooves of the first, inserted all the way and fixed in places where the sheathing runs using clamps.
The fastening of subsequent panels is carried out similarly to the first two. For reliability, each installed plank is carefully tapped along its entire length with a mallet.
During the installation of a wooden ceiling in necessary places cut out through holes the required configuration for outputting the power wires. To trim the lining, use a jigsaw or hand saw.
At the end facing works all gaps between the wooden cladding and the walls are sealed with additional elements of a suitable size. Decorative clips or small furniture nails are used as fastenings.
If desired, the clapboard finish is coated with protective compounds based on natural oils or beeswax. Such impregnations highlight the natural beauty of wood, give it a soft matte tint and protect it from mold and wood-boring beetles.

When starting installation work, you should de-energize the room being lined by turning off the circuit breakers in the electrical panel room.

How to cover a ceiling with clapboard - watch the video:

Having studied the step-by-step technology for installing lining on the ceiling and competently organizing the finishing process, even a novice master will be able to turn a scattering of wooden planks into a beautiful and reliable cladding fabric.

Man has gone hand in hand with wood throughout almost his entire history. This natural material It is used everywhere - including for the construction of residential structures and for their cladding. Wood flooring is not only very durable and aesthetically pleasing, it is also completely environmentally safe.

Many people wonder what can be used to decorate the ceiling in a room. If you want to get a natural solution, it’s time to think about making a ceiling made of wooden lining. Compared to plastic analogues or hardboard, lining is the same material that perfectly withstands cold and heat.

Selection of lining, its varieties

So, finishing the ceiling with wooden lining - what are the features of this process? First, let’s talk in detail about what lining is.

This material is a cut board, the thickness of which is no more than 2 cm (sometimes 22 mm). Use lining as for external cladding different designs, and for interior finishing work.

What else can be noted? Following:

People often think like this: since the lining - simple board, you can buy it and immediately nail it to the surface (if the ceiling is finished with clapboard - specifically to the ceiling), there is nothing difficult about it;
In fact, this is a big misconception. If you want the clapboard ceiling to be of high quality, you need to know how to work with such material. Choice also matters.

Secrets of choice

First, you need to select the lining in order to work with it later. Before buying, the master must know - finishing material does not have any processing.

That is, you can, if you wish, apply the color you want to it - this is exactly what many people do.

Besides:

When you want the lining to remain in its natural color, you can apply a simple stain to it;
This product works as follows: it provides the tree with protection, while effectively emphasizing its structure;
Finishing with wooden lining may include applying varnish or paint to the material. If the wood is not processed, it will become deformed as it dries, this is a fact.

When choosing, you should carefully examine the back side of the material: there should be two grooves there. They are required to ensure that ventilation occurs without any problems. Otherwise, in the future the material may “lead,” which is definitely not what anyone wants.

Lining and its class

Finishing the ceiling with wooden lining is a responsible job. Before starting the process, the master must understand that such material has different classes.

The lining is divided into:

A class;
B class;
There is also an Extra class.

All these classes differ from each other in the number of knots, their presence and the quality of such elements.

Immediately a question - which class has the most knots? Everything is simple here - in B class. In addition, it is useful for the master to know the following: material of this class may contain knots that are “non-living”.

That is, during use they can easily fall out;
Because of this, not particularly aesthetic holes are formed on the surface of the ceiling (or other surface for which lining was used for finishing);
Therefore, class B is not recommended for ceiling cladding.

What can you say about “A” class material? Here's how it goes:

There are an order of magnitude fewer knots here, any of them will be “alive”;
These knots will definitely not fall out during operation, so no holes will be formed on the surface;
Therefore, a ceiling made of wooden lining of this class is a very good, thoughtful and economic solution.

But despite all this, most aesthetic option ceiling is obtained when “Extra” class lining is used. This is sometimes called Euro material. Everything here will definitely be of the highest standard.

The peculiarity of this class is that there are no knots on the lining at all;
Therefore, this material is often chosen for cladding in saunas and baths;
The logic is simple: if there are no knots, then they are guaranteed not to fall out. Accordingly, no new holes will appear in the finishing material - heat will be retained as efficiently as possible;
How to decorate the ceiling in a house with eurolining is a completely different matter. They work here in much the same way as with simple material, some cardinal differences cannot be named in the installation process.

What is suitable for a steam room

In the case when covering the ceiling in a steam room is what needs to be done, perfect option – .

It's explained like this:

The material reacts well even to high temperatures, copes well with excess humidity;
The cost of the material varies greatly - it all depends on the class;
When choosing lining for finishing the ceiling, first pay attention to the class of the material, then look at the price.

If you only chase favorable prices, you can make a very serious mistake - which will ultimately lead to serious additional costs. It will be necessary to redo the casing - you will have to spend money on Additional materials, this is definitely not needed by anyone.

Untreated or treated lining – what should you choose?

Today, both processed and unprocessed material is available for sale. If you need to finish the ceiling with wooden lining, then what is better to choose?

Experienced craftsmen advise choosing unprocessed material.

It's simple here:

When the lining is untreated, if necessary, it can always be painted in the desired color;
Many people specifically purchase this kind of material in order to preserve the natural shade and natural texture: it looks very beautiful in the interior;
Also, material that was processed in production often goes on sale, but the process itself was carried out with serious violations of technology;
Another point: when material is stored, mistakes are often made. It's not just a matter of optimal temperature to preserve the lining;
There may also be simple negligence: the laying was not done evenly, they chose some inappropriate place for storage. smooth surface.

The consequence of all this is that the whole batch turns out to be crooked; such material will definitely not work if you want the ceiling to be finished with wooden lining to be aesthetically pleasing.

Interesting Facts:

Sometimes, when the lining is untreated, and something from the above has happened to it, they just let it rest - it almost always straightens out;
The painted material will not straighten out - it will remain exactly the same as it was, the defects will remain;
Because of this, there are guaranteed to be problems during future installation work.

Details about installation: tricks, secrets, instructions

So, everything has been decided with the lining class, the material has been chosen. Now the only thing left to do is install it: finish the ceiling, because this is what the whole process was started for. Here, too, you need to act carefully, step by step.

The material must acclimatize

When the lining has been delivered, you should not immediately attach it to the surface. Installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out only when the material has acclimatized and “accustomed” to the room.

The ideal solution: after delivery, let the material remain in the room for at least two days - then subsequent work with it will be completed without problems.

This whole operation is necessary so that the boards do not “sink” after finishing. This often happens when they work quickly and are in a hurry to complete the installation.

Arrangement of sheathing

Where do they start? installation work? That's right, first you need to make the sheathing. Usually slats are used for this - then the lining will be attached to them.

This is how they work here:

You need to cut the frame slats into pieces to get elements of the required length. It is necessary to achieve the following: so that the slats are located exactly from one wall to the other - and have a perpendicular direction relative to the lining;
The frame slats are attached to load-bearing ceiling beams (or to floor slabs). A lot depends on what the ceiling material in the room is;
The distance between the slats is selected depending on the dimensions of the purchased finishing material.

And the installation itself. It doesn’t matter in which house the sheathing is done - wooden, concrete or brick, you first need to find the lowest point on the ceiling.

When this point is found, starting from it, the sheathing is installed;
When installing each slatt, the master must carefully observe the horizontal position of this element - this will help with such work building level(in general, it is not recommended to get down to business without such a tool);
In cases where the ceiling is far from ideal, planks and elements from slats can be placed under the sheathing;
Self-tapping screws having the required length are ideal for fastening;
Namely: a suitable self-tapping screw should pass without problems not only through the rail, but also through a special lining;
Much depends on how evenly the sheathing is secured. More precisely, the final result of all the work depends on this.

How to proceed, if there are very large differences in height?

It is appropriate to use suspensions here. The most common ones will do - those used when installing profiles for drywall sheets. It turns out to be reliable, convenient – and at the same time very high quality. Any master will confirm this.

Providing vapor barrier

After the construction of the sheathing for finishing the ceiling with clapboard, we need to think through everything related to vapor barrier. Even in that case.

Here the work is done as follows:

When the floor beams are made of wood, they must be pierced with a construction stapler - thereby targeting the vapor barrier layer. And if the surface is made of concrete, then they glue it with some kind of adhesive;
It is customary to overlap all joints vapor barrier material. An overlap of 100 mm is sufficient - there is no need for larger amounts;
It is important to seal the joints along the length with construction double-sided tape;
It is best to carefully read the instructions before starting to install a vapor barrier - so that the material is guaranteed to be placed on the right side. This point is very important; the quality of the entire surface finishing with wooden lining depends on it.

Working with joints

The vapor barrier has been laid - you can begin installing the finishing material to the ceiling surface. If the work is carried out in a house made of wood, and the structure is new, it is better to leave some gap between the walls and the lining: 1.5-2 cm is enough.

This is required in order to compensate for the shrinkage of the house - after construction it will certainly be observed for two to three years.

The length of the material is joined using two methods:

This is done either in a checkerboard pattern;
Or they do it “butt to butt”.

Another interesting point: experienced craftsmen advise beginners that wiring should be done before installing the lining on the ceiling.

Mounting methods

If we consider such interesting topic, as finishing the ceiling with clapboard, one cannot help but touch upon the following question: how the fastening is made. To fasten such material, self-tapping screws are usually chosen.

Also, you can use nails here. There are also special fastenings - they are called clamps.

Here everything happens like this:

The clamp is pushed into the groove of the lining;
It is carefully tapped until it gains full adhesion to the board;
Afterwards, the clamp is attached to the sheathing - with screws or nails;
When the master is going to use nails, it is also better to have a hammer on hand. Due to this, the edge of the board will always be protected from an accidental blow - this often happens when working with a hammer.

This is done like this: a hammer is placed on the head of the nail (when it is already half hammered in), then a hammer is struck directly on the hammer - and the nail goes completely inside. That's what is required.

Quite a reasonable question - what's the downside to nails??

Here's the deal:

Using nails is a traditional method. The product is inserted into the groove somewhere at an angle of 40 degrees - then it is driven in with a hammer until the element reaches the middle;
Then you can use a hammer to drive the nail in completely;
What is the negative side of this method? The fact is that the edge of the groove of the lining can always be deformed - and even a finisher here will not guarantee one hundred percent protection;
Someone will say that the defect will be insignificant, it will not even be noticeable from the outside. This may be true, but high-quality ceiling cladding with clapboard will definitely not work with this approach;
There are craftsmen who specially make special metal elements necessary to protect the boards from accidental impact of the hammer;
Such a device is placed on a board and acts as a kind of shield. When the nail is driven in, it is removed, then installed in a new place - and so on step by step until the end;
Another disadvantage of this method is the presence of lubricant. Nails on sale today usually come with a special lubricant. When work is carried out, the master’s gloves quickly get dirty, as do his hands. If you touch a clean board that has not been processed with such a hand, its appearance will be significantly damaged. Then you will have to do additional work - remove dirt with sandpaper.

The use of screws is also worth mentioning separately.:

If clamps are not used in clapboard ceiling finishing, it is best to fasten with screws - this is better than nails;
There may be an opinion that in order to fasten the clapboard boards with screws, it will have to be pre-drilled - otherwise the material will simply crack;
In fact, this is a misconception - a lot depends on the diameter of the self-tapping screws.

As a rule, products with a length of 2.5 cm and a diameter of 2.5-3 mm are chosen for fastening. The head of such a screw has a diameter of 6 mm - definitely no less.

If you want to use just such an element, you will actually need to pre-drill a hole, otherwise the material will crack;
But the master can always choose products of a different size, fortunately, there are all kinds of screws on sale today;
An excellent option: choose screws with a diameter of 2-2.3 mm and a length of 25 mm;
This element has a smaller cap, about 5 mm.

It would seem that the difference with the “destructive” version is only five millimeters. In fact, in cladding, even such a tiny indicator has a very important. Even visually, such screws differ from each other - let alone the impact on the lining that is attached to the ceiling surface.

What are the advantages of screws

Ceiling clapboard finishing: photos and videos are something that is definitely worth studying carefully. Such materials will help you do the work efficiently and competently. For example, below is the video.

The following can be said about screws::

With them you can make fastenings without any preliminary drilling at all - nothing will crack, you don’t even need to worry about it. The lining that is on sale, such screws, are those materials that fit together perfectly;
Another important advantage of screws over the same nails is that the lining can always be dismantled from the ceiling;
The screws can be unscrewed without any problems when needed. And this may be required in a situation where repairs are being made. Nail without negative consequences for its environment it is definitely not possible to remove it.

A common misconception because of which many people refuse screws:

People often think that the head of such an element simply will not allow the tongue of the subsequent lining to fall into the groove. You don't have to worry about this;
If the board is made correctly, there will be enough space for the screw head to fit properly;
When the lining is produced in accordance with the technology, there should be a gap inside when connecting;
To protect your work from mistakes, when purchasing material you just need to attach two boards to each other. If there is a gap inside, the products are definitely manufactured correctly. If there is no gap, it is worth choosing a different material for purchase;
Such a gap is definitely needed, because it is worth remembering about linear expansion. Otherwise, the entire ceiling covering will be deformed and repairs will have to be made.

The conclusion is simple: There is definitely enough space for a screw here - no need to worry about it.

A little advice: it is better to refrain from purchasing screws on certain construction markets. To do this, it is better to visit a specialized hypermarket - here the products will definitely be of high quality and standardized.

Today, one of the most popular materials for ceiling finishing is lining. Natural wood coverings are overpriced, but lining remains a reasonable solution, combining naturalness and affordability. Lining for the ceiling in the house is capable of retaining the beneficial properties of wood, and also gives the interior an atmosphere of home comfort and beauty.

The lining received its historical name due to the fact that railway cars used to be sheathed with it. Having appreciated this lumber, it was later used in interior decoration. Characteristics and advantages of wooden lining:/>

naturalness of the material: lining is an environmentally friendly material that retains all the beneficial properties of wood;
pleasant smell that is good for health;
vapor permeability, air easily enters the room;
high sound insulation;
thermal insulation, keeps the house warm;
hassle-free care: no need to spend a lot of time and money to maintain beauty and beneficial properties linings;
simple installation: a tongue-and-groove method is used, with which almost anyone can fix wooden sheathing.

In addition, it is worth considering that the ceiling made of wooden lining has a long service life.

The only minor disadvantages of ceiling lining is that wood, as a natural material, tends to deform under the influence of temperature changes and humidity. There are linings with imitation wood, which are not subject to deformation, but they are suitable for residential premises.

Finishing the ceiling with wooden paneling is not only an effective way to decorate a living space, but also a guarantee of a long-term investment in repairs that will not require updating after a short amount of time. Real wood is becoming more and more popular, due to consumer interest in eco-interiors, natural finishing materials, simplicity and quality.

Advantages of finishing ceilings with wooden lining:

ceiling lining, the price of which corresponds to the quality characteristics of the product, is absolutely natural and environmentally friendly;
thanks to the rich color scheme and ways to enrich shades with the help of coating, lining is suitable for decorating any interior, and decorative slats and strips will help achieve an original visual effect;
real wood improves the thermal insulation of the room, keeping out the cold and retaining heat;
the service life of this finishing material is practically unlimited;
a wooden clapboard ceiling, a photo of which you can find on our website, looks great with walls made of similar materials and fills the room with pleasant, fresh aromas of wood.

Everyone who used our services and installed wooden ceilings, confidently declare that it is much more profitable to invest money in natural lining than in artificial finishing materials. By installing ceiling lining, the price of which in our company corresponds to the manufacturer’s price, you ensure peace of mind and comfort for many years. The need to glue and tint is completely eliminated!

Natural wood that has undergone high-tech processing confidently withstands the test of negative factors. The prices for ceiling lining correspond to its high quality, which prevents the appearance of scratches, abrasions, traces of insect pests and much more on the surface over time. Our products can even be installed in bathrooms, kitchens and baths: conifers treated with a special coating are not afraid of high humidity in the air, temperature changes and promote room ventilation due to their properties and installation method.

We invite you to study photos of clapboard ceiling finishing on our website and pay attention to the methods of laying panels and various design solutions. For example, a wide ceiling lining can visually reduce the space, while a narrow lining can make the room longer.

Ceiling made of lining photo

What width of ceiling lining is best?

The dimensions of the lining for the ceiling in the house can be found completely different: thickness ranges from 8 to 12 mm, length - from 0.5 to 6 meters, and width from 45 mm to 130 mm. Manufacturers most often focus on the Eurostandard dimensions when making lining:

length - from 2.1 to 3 meters;
thickness - from 12.5 meters;
width - from 95 meters.

When the question arises, what width of ceiling lining is better, you should give preference to wide boards. Wide ceiling lining - durable lumber.

Ceiling lining price

The price of ceiling lining depends on its grade. At the moment, when indicating the grade, all manufacturers are guided by the German standard - DIN 68126/86. The category is determined by the number of cracks, mold and other possible damage to the wood.

The highest grade of ceiling lining - Extra, has a perfectly smooth, even surface. It contains no knots or flaws. Next in descending order are the varieties A, B, C and others. When choosing class C, you need to be prepared for a large number of defects.

Also, the price of the ceiling lining depends on its parameters. It is quite difficult to find long ceiling lining with a small number of defects.

When choosing lining for the ceiling, you need to carefully consider the rock from which it consists. The lining for the ceiling in the house is made from hardwood and coniferous species trees. Spruce and pine are perfect for ceilings when building a bathhouse.

Thuja, cedar, larch will become ideal solution with its beautiful texture. Lining and larch will delight you with excellent moisture-proof properties, serious resistance to various pests, as well as low cost. Siberian and Canadian cedar are superior in properties to larch, but their cost is much higher. Ash and oak conceal special luxury and nobility. Lining made from these materials will especially emphasize the elegance and beauty of your ceiling.

Which lining is better for the ceiling?

Lining is divided into three categories: ordinary lining, calm lining and eurolining. The latter are distinguished by high quality wood. They are made from the part of the trunk located between the bark and the wood core. Eurolining and Stil lining are impregnated different substances, thanks to which they can serve for more than 15 years. Calm lining is superior to eurolining in that while it has all the same characteristics of eurolining, calm lining is wider and does not have a “shelf” near the joint. Now that we have figured out which lining is best for the ceiling, let’s take a closer look at the characteristics of the Shtil lining.

Ceiling decoration with clapboard photo

Calm lining is the best thing for ceilings

Finishing the ceiling with clapboard paneling in the photo allows you to achieve ideal flat ceiling. This lumber is made from coniferous trees tree species. A particularly popular type of wood for wide ceiling linings is Siberian larch, due to its strength, resistance to insects and moisture.

If you choose between eurolining and calm lining, it is worth noting that the latter is larger in size. The surface is created without joints, so material consumption is very economical.

Advantages of Stil lining:

large sizes compared to eurolining allow you to select the material to suit the dimensions of the room;
the width of the lining is 90-140mm, a wide lining for the ceiling will allow you to decorate it very beautifully;
is different high quality manufacturing;
the joints between the boards, thanks to the use of Shtil lining, are almost invisible, the ceiling visually looks seamless;
great material savings;
affordable price.

The installation of Shtil lining is based on the tongue-and-groove principle, which allows fastening to be carried out without any problems. A similar clapboard ceiling decoration is shown in the photo.
How to properly care for ceiling lining?

When cleaning wood cladding It is not recommended to wet it with plenty of water, or use strong solvents. It is enough to rub a slightly damp cloth over the surface, or use special care products for wood paneling. In addition, treating the surface with protective compounds will significantly extend its service life. Necessary products for caring for ceiling lining:

flame retardants - substances that can significantly reduce the flammability of wood;
antiseptic treatment, serves to increase moisture protection and resistance to rotting;
tinting or clear nail polish to preserve the appearance of the tree.

Advantages of purchasing Stil lining in the Pomor Les online store:

We offer reliable and high-quality lumber from “Arkhangelsk forest”;
We cooperate only with proven major manufacturers from Arkhangelsk, the Mari El Republic, as well as from the Irkutsk and Kirov regions;
own delivery: we always deliver materials in the best possible condition;
simple order by phone without prepayment;
the ability to pay in a way convenient for you;
We provide the opportunity to come to the warehouse and independently choose the material you like;
We carry out enhanced control over humidity, carry out triple drying at your request, the latter is carried out upon shipment;
Our store offers only high-quality euro-lining pine of the best varieties.

The abundance of various building materials on the market allows owners of apartments and houses to carry out ceiling repairs in accordance with modern trends and fashion. Tension and suspended structures ceilings. However, for lovers of rustic style and natural materials, ordinary wooden lining looks more attractive. In this article we will tell you how to properly sheathe a ceiling with clapboard, choose suitable materials and assemble the sheathing. All those who decide to equip the ceiling with wooden lining should be prepared for the fact that this process will require a large investment of labor, time and patience.

Selecting lining for the ceiling

More recently, when it came to ceiling lining, it was wooden figured strips that were meant. However, currently the construction market offers several types of lining. Based on the intended purpose of the room, material capabilities and buyer preferences, you can choose one or another material.

The material for making lining can be:

wood;
polyvinyl chloride;
MDF boards.

It is worth going into more detail on each of the materials.

Wooden lining

In the case of finishing the ceiling with wooden paneling, the natural country style premises. Wood lining is used in premises for any purpose and is absolutely safe for human health. The price of this building material varies depending on the type of wood. Most often, lining is made from alder, cedar, fir, oak, aspen, larch and other types of wood.

Pine has antiseptic properties because it is rich in resins. These substances cause mold to form on the surface of the lining. In addition, pine itself is considered a fairly smooth tree, with a small number of knots, which makes it ideal for creating lining.

Lining from coniferous varieties wood is considered almost universal, unlike hardwood, which is used primarily indoors. However, any wood is susceptible to moisture, so it must be impregnated with special products and provide air access to ventilate it.

Depending on the quality of the wood, there are 4 types of lining:

Top class (extra). This board looks perfect in appearance, there are no chips, dents or cracks on it. The price of such material is very high, since it is made by splicing. At high humidity, this material begins to crack, so this lining is not used in damp rooms.
Class A. Small knots are allowed, but there are no other defects on such material. As a rule, it is this category of lining that most consumers choose.
Class B. There may be small defects on the surface of the board. Although such lining is usually not used in residential premises, for cladding balconies and country dachas it fits best.
Class C. This is the lowest grade material, which has a large number of knots and defects.

Characteristics of MDF lining

In appearance, a ceiling made of MDF paneling resembles a wooden laminate, although this material is, in fact, a board made of pressed sawdust. This material is very sensitive to moisture. At the slightest contact with water, it begins to swell, losing its appearance and original quality.

It is worth noting that MDF paneling is used more often for walls than for ceilings. It allows you to organize various decorative elements and diversify the interior. In addition, the material has high thermal and noise insulation qualities.

If desired, you can combine MDF lining with different colors and textures. Installation of such material is not difficult.

Features of polyvinyl chloride lining

Covering the ceiling with PVC clapboard is great option, since the material is very easy to handle and easy to install. However, it is worth remembering that PVC planks are fragile and very easy to damage.

There are two types of PVC lining:

with seams;
seamless.

Seamless lining allows you to create an almost seamless, smooth surface on which the seams between the individual planks will be almost invisible. If you want to create a surface reminiscent of eurolining, you should use panels with seams.

One of the main advantages of polyvinyl chloride panels is that they are resistant to wet environments. However, you should avoid direct contact with such a ceiling. sun rays, since under ultraviolet light the lining will begin to lose its original color.

Thus, the best options for finishing the ceiling with clapboard would be plastic (PVC) panels, as well as wooden planks.

Material calculation

Before sheathing the ceiling with clapboard wooden house, you should take care of purchasing a sufficient amount of material so that during the work you do not need to take breaks for additional purchases. The standard dimensions of one lining board are 15 cm wide, 600 cm long and 1.2-2.5 cm thick. These are the requirements of GOST 8242-88.

For interior decoration, panels with a thickness of less than 1.6 cm are used, and for exterior decoration, panels with a thickness of 1.8 cm or more are used. To determine the number of boards for finishing the ceiling with eurolining, you need to calculate the area of 1 plank and compare it with the total area of the surface to be sheathed. Thus, if we took a panel 9.5 cm wide and 6 m long, it total area will be equal to 0.57 m 2.

Let's assume that the total ceiling area in the room is 9 m2. Then for work you will need 9÷0.57=17.3≈18 boards. This is the minimum number of panels, since during the cladding process the width of the canvas will be reduced due to the peculiarities of the installation of the lining. It is fastened with a comb into the groove.

Material quality control

After you have decided on the type, color, and quantity of the lining and delivered it to the work site, you need to check its quality. All panels should be laid out on a horizontal, flat surface and checked to see how well they correspond to the stated characteristics. Sometimes inside the package unscrupulous sellers place defective samples to avoid losses due to their rejection. Of course, it is advisable to pay attention to this during the shopping process in the store.

The next step if you plan to work with wood paneling is to dry it. PVC and MDF panels do not require this manipulation. To prevent the wooden lining mounted on the ceiling from becoming deformed, it must be thoroughly dried on a horizontal surface. The minimum drying period is 2 weeks, but a longer interval is allowed. If you do not want the wooden ceiling lining to soon lose its presentable appearance, drying cannot be neglected.

Preparation of tools and materials

To install the lining on the ceiling as quickly as possible, it is worth preparing in advance all the tools that may be needed during the work process:

a hammer drill with a drill with a cross-section of 6-7 mm (if you have to work with a concrete ceiling), or hammer drill;
screwdriver;
electric jigsaw or hacksaw (tools are suitable for any type of lining);
level;
roulette.

In order to cover the ceiling with clapboard, you will need to purchase a number of auxiliary materials.

Since the lining is attached to the frame, that is, the sheathing, you need to choose the type of material for it:

Wooden slats - they are best suited for fixing any type of lining, since working with them is easier and more convenient, and their cost is much lower than metal profiles.
Metal sheathing made of steel profiles. It is usually used for fastening plasterboard sheets.

It is worth noting that for working in rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to choose a steel version of the lathing and PVC lining, since they do not deform under the influence of moisture, unlike wood.

For a wooden frame you will need:

strip 4x4 cm based on surface area;
wooden or plastic wedges for the frame;
brackets;
self-tapping screws

For metal sheathing you need to purchase:

steel profiles;
fasteners;
pendant;
self-tapping screws;
anchors.

You can begin installing the lining on the ceiling after purchasing materials and thoroughly drying the wood.

Preliminary work with the ceiling

It is very important before making a lining ceiling to prepare it correctly. First, you need to remove a layer of old plaster from the ceiling surface and clean the surface from dirt so that it is as smooth as possible.

Next, we proceed to marking the ceiling for the frame. In this case, it is worth deciding on the direction of the lining strips. In the process of further laying the lining on the ceiling, it is advisable to place it so that there are as few end joints as possible.

Since wooden elements are susceptible not only to moisture, but also to mold, they must be coated with an antiseptic before installation.

In private houses, the ceiling should be pre-insulated. A layer of thermal insulation is laid between the profile posts, mounted with an indentation of 50-60 cm. If we are talking about an apartment, then additional thermal insulation is not needed.

Next, we find a level for attaching the sheathing. Having decided on the direction of the slats, we mark the ceiling. Please note that the lining is fixed perpendicular to the sheathing beams. If desired, it can be placed at right angles to the walls or diagonally.

Retaining brackets are fixed to the ceiling with equal intervals between them. Then wooden slats are laid on the brackets, leveling them using small wedges.

In order for eurolining ceilings to be beautiful, the lathing must be installed very carefully and perfectly level.

The maximum step between fasteners is 50 cm. If eurolining is used, then the step must be halved.

Its final appearance and durability depend on how carefully you pay attention to the preliminary preparation of the ceiling.

Fastening the lining

Installing lining on the ceiling with your own hands is not something too difficult; even inexperienced performers can do it. True, it is advisable to work with the paneling together to make it easier to fasten long panels.

We begin to attach the lining to the ceiling with our own hands, perpendicular to the sheathing from the wall. The first board is tightly fixed to the wall with a tenon. Using a level, adjust the position of the board and then secure it. To lay the lining, you can use both small nails and clamps. In those rooms where the design of the lining ceiling should be ideal, clamps are used, and in other rooms, ordinary nails are also suitable.

Then we take the next board and insert it with a tenon into the groove of the previous one. At the points of contact between the panel and the sheathing, we firmly fix the board. We fix all other lining panels onto the battens in the same way.

On the opposite wall, the last strip of lining may need to be trimmed. In this regard, it is advisable to place it in a place where it will be least noticeable. When working with plastic panels, it is better to use a hand saw, while wooden lining and MDF panels are easier to cut with a jigsaw.

It is better to make any holes for wiring or mounting lighting fixtures immediately at the time of fixing the lining, so as not to damage it.

If you use nails to cover the ceiling with clapboard yourself, then you must first cut off their heads. At the end of the work, the nail holes are opened with wax.

The final stage of arranging a lining ceiling will be attaching the baseboards around the perimeter of the room. These decorative elements will add completeness to the ceiling and hide the gaps along the edges. Typically, wooden lining is opened with varnish, and baseboards with a darker stain and varnish. If desired, this ceiling can be painted.

Here are some useful tips that may be useful to you:

Before covering the ceiling with eurolining, it is advisable to check how good the electrical wiring and other communications running under the ceiling are. If in the future you have to dismantle the lining for repairs, it can be damaged.
The ceiling lining in places of contact with electrical wires must be insulated to prevent fire.
When working with wooden panels, it is advisable to use fasteners that will not rust. For PVC panels, the type of fastening is not important.
Ceiling covering should be done in a dry room at a temperature not lower than 10 ℃.

The cost of a lining ceiling

The final cost of ceiling repair will largely depend on the price of materials. In turn, the price of lining varies depending on the type and species of wood, the length of the board, as well as production technology.

Depending on these factors, lining is divided into several categories by price:

The most expensive is considered to be lining made of soft hardwood. Their processing is carried out in accordance with European standards.
To the middle price category lining made of hardwood comes in.
Lining made from softwood is the cheapest.

In addition, if you want to equip a two-level ceiling made of clapboard, you may have to invite a specialist, whose services you also need to pay for.

How to care for the ceiling

If we are talking about lining made of wood, it must be treated with antiseptic impregnations and primers that slow down the destruction of wood and prevent the development of fungus and rotting. When choosing a specific product, pay attention to its color, which should match the desired result.

Alternatively, wooden panels can be coated with a special oil, varnish or paint of your choice. The processing option depends only on the wishes of the owner.

In order for the ceiling to retain its presentable appearance longer, it is advisable to periodically wipe off dust from it. If just a damp cloth is not enough for cleaning, you can use special household products, which in large quantities sold in supermarkets.

The modern market offers a huge number of different materials for ceiling finishing. Some people prefer stretch ceilings, others construct suspended plasterboard structures. However, today we will talk about lining - how to choose a material suitable for the ceiling, how to construct the sheathing and how to carry out installation. Covering the ceiling with clapboard is a very labor-intensive task, so you must approach the issue with all responsibility.

Features of choosing lining for the ceiling

Once upon a time, lining was understood exclusively wooden version of this material, but on modern market you can find several variations at once. When choosing a particular type of material, personal wishes, financial capabilities, goals and features of the room itself should be taken into account.

Modern lining is made from:

wood;
polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
pressed hardboard (MDF).

Let's take a closer look at each of the varieties.

Wooden lining

Obviously, it will ideally emphasize the “natural” design of the room. This lining is absolutely safe and can be used in any room, and the cost of the material depends on the specific type of wood used in the manufacture. As a rule, alder, cedar, aspen, fir, oak, larch, etc. are used for these purposes.

Pine boards are characterized by excellent antiseptic characteristics, which is explained by the resins they exude, which give the material similar properties. These resins protect the wood surface from mold and mildew. Another advantage is that pine by nature has few knots, and this, in turn, was reflected in the quality of workmanship.

Note! Hardwood is an option that is more suitable for indoor use, while softwood paneling is versatile. However, any lining is susceptible to high humidity, so you must take care of appropriate impregnation and regular ventilation.

Wooden lining is also classified according to the quality of the board into four groups. Let's look at them.

Prices for lining

Table. Classification of lining according to board quality.

Class	Description
	The material is in perfect execution, free of any dents, cracks or chips. It is produced by using the splicing method, but it also costs accordingly. Such lining is unsuitable for damp rooms, because in conditions of high humidity it can become covered with cracks.
	Small knots may be detected on such material, but there are no other defects. The most popular category of lining, which is available to most consumers.
	There are some defects, but they are minor. The material is undesirable for use in living rooms, but for balconies and summer houses this is the best option.
	Low-grade lining, characterized by numerous defects.

Video - Features of choosing lining

MDF lining

It looks similar to its wooden counterpart, but is produced using a completely different technology (we are talking about pressing wood chips). The main disadvantage of such lining is the fear of moisture: upon contact with it, the material swells and loses its original properties and appearance.

This finishing option is more suitable for walls, although it is often used to imitate columns in a house. The advantages include good noise and thermal insulation characteristics.

Note! MDF lining is available for sale various colors and textures, but the important thing is that they can be easily combined. Finally, the installation procedure is also not complicated.

PVC lining

A good finishing material that is ideal for the ceiling. Easy to install, but at the same time quite fragile (you need to remember this if you plan to cover the walls with boards). Therefore, PVC lining cannot be used where there is a high probability of its deformation or damage.

Such a lining can be:

seamless;
with a seam.

In the first case, the material forms a complete and smooth surface, and the seams between the panels are almost invisible. If you use lining with a highlighted seam, it will look like Euro lining on the ceiling. Another advantage of PVC panels is that they are impervious to moisture, but can fade under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.

Prices for PVC lining

PVC lining

Note! It turns out that the ceiling can be sheathed with either wooden lining or plastic (polyvinyl chloride) panels.

We calculate the amount of material

To calculate the required number of linings, you need to know what the dimensions of this cladding material are. In accordance with GOST standard width one board should be up to 15 cm, length – 600 cm, and thickness – from 1.2 cm to 2.5 cm.

GOST 8242-88. Profile parts made of wood and wood materials for construction. File for download.

Panels with a thickness of less than 1.6 cm are used for interior finishing, and lining with a thickness of 1.8 cm or more is used for exterior work. If you know the dimensions of the boards, you will be able to determine their square footage. Let’s say the width of the lining is 9.5 cm and the length is 600 cm. In this case, the total area of one panel will be 0.57 m².

To calculate the required amount of material, divide the area of the ceiling by the area of one board. For example, the ceiling area is 9 m². In this case, the calculations will look like this:

9 m²: 0.52 m² = 17.3

This means you will need at least 18 panels. But remember that during installation the width of each board will be slightly less than the total - this is explained by the nuances of the tongue-and-groove fastening of the material.

Prices for ceiling panels

ceiling panels

Checking purchased panels

So, you have chosen the type and color of the lining, and calculated its quantity. We purchased it and delivered it home. What to do next? Now you need to lay out the panels on some flat surface and carefully examine them. The fact is that sellers often put several low-quality copies inside the package. But it’s better to check this point directly in the store.

Next, you need to pay attention to drying the lining (this only applies to wooden panels). Products made from MDF and PVC do not require this procedure. Drying is necessary to ensure that the boards do not become deformed. The procedure should last at least 14 days, but longer is possible. This rule should never be neglected.

Stage No. 1. We prepare everything you need

The work must begin with preparation necessary equipment; To cover the ceiling with clapboard you will need:

drill or hammer drill (for a concrete ceiling, the diameter of the drill should be at least 6-7 mm);
building level;
screwdriver;
roulette;
hacksaw or jigsaw (to cut panels; tools are suitable for all types of lining).

In addition to the lining itself, the features of the calculation and selection of which were discussed above, other materials will also be required. So, to install the panels you will need a frame (sheathing), which can be of two types.

Wooden sheathing. The best option for the home, because it costs less than a metal profile, and it is much easier to attach panels to it.
Metal sheathing. In most cases it is used for drywall.

If you plan to cover the ceiling in the bathroom, then it is better to give preference metal frame, since in conditions of high humidity the metal does not deform, which cannot be said about wood.

So, if the frame is wooden, then prepare:

beam 4x4 cm (according to the ceiling area);
self-tapping screws;
brackets;
wedges (plastic or wood) for mounting the frame.

If the sheathing is metal, you will need:

metallic profile;
self-tapping screws;
fasteners;
anchors;
suspension.

After preparing everything you need and drying (if required) the lining, you can start working.

Stage No. 2. Preparing the ceiling

Step 1. Remove old plaster, clean the ceiling surface from dirt and dust.

Ceiling profile prices

ceiling profile

Step 2. Draw the markings for constructing the frame. Preliminarily determine in which direction the lining will be attached (it is advisable to give preference to the one in which there will be no end joints between the boards).

Note! Due to their fragility, wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic before installation. But this still will not guarantee 100% protection.

Step 3. If we are talking about a private house, then you also have to lay thermal insulation material. Install the profile posts in increments of 50-60 cm, and lay insulation between them. As for apartments, there is no need to do this.

Step 4. First, determine the level at which the sheathing is mounted. Then mark the direction of the bars. The panel must be attached strictly perpendicular to the direction of the beam. It can be mounted vertically, horizontally and diagonally.

Now secure the brackets at the same distance from each other. Attach a wooden beam to the brackets. To level the level of the sheathing, use wooden wedges.

The sheathing is installed very evenly; the lining will be placed on it. Otherwise, the coating will turn out wavy and ugly.

Step 5. Install fasteners with maximum step 50 cm. For eurolining this figure should be half as much.

Proper preparation is very important stage cladding, on which the durability of the entire structure depends.

Stage No. 3. We install the lining on the sheathing

The installation procedure is not complicated; it does not require special skills or knowledge. It is recommended to carry out the work with an assistant - in this case, boards of any length will be fastened quickly and efficiently.

Step 1. Take the first panel and secure it tightly with the tenon to the wall. It is important that the boards are attached perpendicular to the sheathing.

Step 2. Adjust the position of the first panel using a level, then secure it.

Note! The lining can be attached both to clamps and to small nails. The last mounting option can be used only for those rooms where the aesthetic component is not particularly important.

Fastening with clamps will cost much more, since you will have to spend money on purchasing them.

Step 3. Take the second panel, insert it tightly into the grooves of the first and fix it in place where the frame runs.

Step 4. Attach all other panels in the same way. Last board may need to be cut, so try to keep it against the least visible wall. For wooden and MDF panels, it is better to use a jigsaw, and for plastic panels, a hand saw. Measure holes for communications and lighting fixtures directly during installation - this will help to avoid mistakes.

Note! If you use nails for fastening, their heads must be cut using a special tool. In the future, the attachment points must be covered with wax.

Step 5. To design the finished ceiling covering secure the wooden baseboards around the perimeter - they will perfectly hide the cracks of the cut material. You can also paint the ceiling to make it look even more beautiful. Although it is advisable to coat the wooden lining with varnish, and the baseboards with dark stain and varnish.

Prices for suspended ceilings

suspended ceiling

Video - Do-it-yourself ceiling cladding with clapboard

How much does the lining cost?

The cost of the boards depends on many parameters, including the type and type of wood, the length of the panels, the equipment used to make them, etc. Based on price, lining can be divided into three large groups.

Expensive. High quality material made from soft hardwoods. As a rule, such panels are processed according to European standards. The cost usually starts from 310 rubles per sq. m. m.
Average. Hardwood, which will cost 215-300 rubles per sq. m. m.
Cheap. We are talking about boards made of coniferous wood. These cost between 100-215 rubles per sq. m. m.

If you plan to hire a specialist for sheathing, you can calculate the approximate cost of his services. Finishing one square will cost somewhere between 150-350 rubles (the specific amount depends on the complexity of the work and the qualifications of the craftsman).

Features of caring for lining

If you use wooden lining for the ceiling, be sure to take additional measures. So, to extend the life of wood, treat it with special solutions that prevent rotting, the development of mold and mildew. These include impregnations and primer mixtures. When choosing a product, look at the color - it should be the same as the color of the final result.

Note! The lining can also be impregnated with oil or coated with varnish or paint, as mentioned above. You can choose what exactly to treat the ceiling with.

To maintain the original appearance of the coating, wipe off dust as often as possible. If the contamination has started, and a soft damp cloth can no longer cope, then use special means for processing, which are commercially available in a wide range.