A device for sharpening knives with your own hands. Homemade sharpening of knives with your own hands - we create a knife with the help of drawings Do-it-yourself knife sharpening device drawings

To perform their functions, knives must always be sharp. Any housewife who uses a knife to cut food knows how quickly it becomes dull.

Can make a sharpener from wooden blocks. Requires 4 bars same size: 2 – wooden, and 2 – abrasive. The wood is sanded, removing all burrs using sandpaper. Markings are applied to them depending on the desired angle, and grindstone and fix its width. On the markings, cuts are made with a depth of 1.5 cm. Abrasive bars are inserted into the recesses and secured with bolts.

Let's consider the action of the clamping device. The knife is fixed and remains motionless, and the stone makes forward movements. It forms a smooth cutting edge on the edge of the knife under required angle. To make the blade perfectly sharp, you need to consistently change the sharpening stones. It must be remembered that the stones must move strictly perpendicular to the area that is being sharpened.

Chisels and plane knives can be sharpened at home. You need to make a basic device where the sharpening angle will be fixed. Sharpening is carried out strictly on sanding paper.

Simple knife sharpening machine

To make it you need two pairs of slats and a block. The slats are connected to each other using adjustable screws, and a block is installed between them. The structure must be stable, it is not advisable to move it on the desktop. To better secure the block, you need to provide support strips that can be placed between the wooden components.

Easy to do with your own hands. You need to prepare the necessary tool.

This machine has disadvantages:

it is not always possible to control the sharpening angle, especially if you work for a long time;
the structure is unstable, another fixation unit is needed;
You need to regularly tighten the screws so that the location of the bar does not change.

Sharpening planing knives

This is a complex process that requires certain knowledge and skills. It is difficult to find a device for sharpening planing knives on sale. Many people do this using regular sharpening tools. For this case, it is recommended to purchase a modern low-speed sharpener, which is equipped with water cooling.

To do planer knife sharp, you need to find a smooth and ungreasy stone that is used in this area. A water stone is perfect.

You can sharpen such a knife in any car workshop that has a tool for sharpening knives. For an additional fee, any blade will be made sharp for you using a special machine.

There are two types of knife sharpening: one-sided and two-sided. Working methods will differ from each other. This needs to be taken into account.

When choosing a quality block, you need to choose a stone with a medium grain.

Knives that have special coatings for cutting edges do not need to be sharpened. They are made of especially hard alloys that protect the blade from wear.

A sharpener with a special cutting edge in the form of teeth should not be attempted to sharpen in the usual way. For such a blade, you need to use laser control, which is not available in an ordinary apartment.

Wash blades frequently hot water This is not possible, as this will dull their blades faster.

To quickly sharpen a blade, without having a special device at hand, use an ordinary ceramic mug. Its bottom usually has a rough rim not covered with glaze - it can be used instead of a stone. The method is suitable for auxiliary pointing.

In some villages it is still practiced method of sharpening blades on a foundation. For its manufacture it was used cement-sand mortar, so the foundation surface has a grainy surface. Of course, this method is for residents apartment buildings can't be called acceptable, but it's a pretty good option.

Conclusion

Every home must have a knife sharpening device. You can make a simple model of a knife sharpening device with your own hands.

Let it be the most simple model, but if you do it yourself, your blades will never get dull.

Every housewife dreams of sharp knives. It is difficult to do without such cutting tools in the kitchen. Not everyone succeeds correct sharpening: I seem to have tried, but the knife still doesn’t cut well or quickly becomes dull. Often the cause of this is improper sharpening. You can get out of this situation if you use a knife sharpening machine.

Modification of sharpeners

Sold in stores a large number of all kinds of devices and machines, ranging from the simplest to automatic machines. However, many of them either do not bring sharpening to the final goal, or are too expensive. All machines can be divided into three categories:

superhard;
hard;
soft.

To sharpen the tool, you need to manually move it over the abrasive, achieving the desired effect. Many people use this method, but not everyone succeeds. The reason is that for proper sharpening, the sharpening angle must be strictly observed. It depends on the hardness and volume of the material being cut.

For the tools below must be sustained following angles in degrees:

razors - 8-12;
blades for cutting fillets - 10-15;
kitchen knives - 15-20;
hunting tools - 20-25;
heavy knives (for example, machetes) - 30-50.

The next thing you need to pay attention to when sharpening knives is the grain size of the abrasive material. To sharpen very dull knives, abrasives with coarser grains are used. This will help remove excess metal faster. When leveling the surface, use medium emery stones, and for grinding you need very fine grain. Usually On sanding wheels and bars the abrasive size is indicated in numbers:

300-350 - very large, used for pruning;
400-500 - average, allows for basic sharpening;
600-700 - shallow, you can level the blade on it;
1000-1200 - very fine, with its help it is possible to polish the tool.

To sharpen a knife manually, place a block or emery wheel and secure it. The cutting tool is held on the abrasive with the blade facing away from you, and set at the desired angle. At first they use a protractor. Subsequently, when certain experience appears, it will be possible to do without it.

They begin to sharpen the blade, strictly ensuring that the angle is maintained. This kind of work requires attention and experience, so it may not work out right away. It will be much more convenient to do it if you make your own device for sharpening knives. A self-assembled product will cost much less.

Use of machines

The most simple device, which can be made at home, is a wooden corner. A block will be placed in it. The base is made in the form of a box, the size of which is selected according to the abrasive. The second side of the corner has the same shape and is mounted in a vertical position. To make the device more stable, the base is connected to a wide board.

A block is inserted vertically into the device. In this position the angle is 0°. To create the desired slope, the lower edge of the abrasive begins to be moved away from the vertical, the angle is measured with a protractor. To prevent the block from “moving”, a stop is placed at the bottom (you can simply screw in a screw). To sharpen, the blade is moved along the sandpaper strictly in a vertical plane. For fine processing and grinding, the bars are changed. Since the stone is ground unevenly, they constantly need to be leveled using harder stones. Using sandpaper eliminates such hassle.

To do this, you need to take sandpaper with coarse, medium and fine grain, as well as a leather belt. A block of wood is cut to the size of the abrasive and processed sandpaper. One blank is made from leather belt. Each face of the bar is numbered, and numbers are placed near the top and bottom edges. A tape with a large grain is glued to the plane numbered 1, 2 - with a medium grain, 3 - with a fine grain, 4 - leather from a belt.

The tapes are attached indented from the edge. Thanks to this, the numbers will be visible, and the block will fit into the grooves of the box. They begin to sharpen the blade from 1 or 2 and then move on to the next edges. As the sandpaper wears out, it is cut off with a knife and a new one is glued on. Compared to bars, paper is much cheaper.

This device can be modified. Vertical rack attached to the base through a hinge so that it can tilt back, increasing the sharpening angle. On the side where the stand tilts, a stop is placed, for example, two plates fastened together through longitudinal slots with a wing bolt or nut. In this case, the lower edge of the bar will be motionless.

Convenient designs

Although the designs described above have a number of advantages, they have one significant drawback - you need to constantly monitor the vertical of the blade, and this is tedious. Much easier to work with electric machine for processing kitchen tools.

Emery, as the device for sharpening knives is called, makes the task much easier. The blade is brought to the circle so that it is directed against its rotation. But even in this case, it is necessary to monitor the sharpening angle.

To make it easier to work, you can make wooden stand. It consists of two parts: the base and the corner itself. The support helps raise the knife to the desired height; another workpiece with an inclined platform is placed on it; it is this that will give the necessary tilt to the blade. You can make several such corners, they will be designed for different ways sharpening. To fix the guide, you can use nails without heads. They are driven into the base, leaving 10-15 mm, covered with paint, and a corner is placed on top. The painted areas are drilled with a drill of the same diameter as the nails.

The device works well when there is no casing covering the emery stone, but it is not entirely safe. In the case of using protection, you can use another sharpening stand. On the side of the electric sharpener, a wooden block with a vertical slot for the knife is installed. The height is selected so that the angle of the blade being sharpened corresponds to the required condition. The knife is inserted into the cutout and slides along it.

This electric sharpener has a significant drawback - it is difficult to set the sharpening angle. To get rid of it, the design should be complicated. To do this, a three-arm holder with the ability to adjust the angle is installed. It is attached directly to the sandpaper, but can also be used as independent device. To make such a device you need skills and special machines, and this is not suitable for everyone.

Another disadvantage is that when using an electric knife sharpening machine, the stone is ground down. It will have to be constantly adjusted during operation to make the blade sharp. In addition, with this method, the sandpaper is used irrationally; it has to be changed, throwing away a significant part of the abrasive.

Homemade devices

Some owners use a manual knife sharpening machine with an adjustable sharpening angle. The essence of such a device comes down to the fact that one of the elements (knife or abrasive) is in a stationary state, while the other is made to reciprocate. Two groups of such machines can be distinguished:

with fixed abrasive;
with fixed blade.

The first group includes a trolley machine. The abrasive is installed on a flat surface. Treated stone or thick glass can be used as such a surface. To make the holder, a board 2-3 cm thick is cut out, its length should be approximately 1.5 times the abrasive material, the width does not play a decisive role. For best view and a flat surface is treated with a plane and sandpaper. Along the long edges, stops are nailed and glued to provide strength.

Then you should make the wedges. To do this, take the treated board again and cut out a rectangle. Its thickness should be equal to the height of the abrasive material, the length should approximately correspond to the width of the holder. To calculate the width of the device, you need to subtract the length of the abrasive and the width of the two stops from the length of the holder.

IN assembled form the following picture emerges: an abrasive and a wedge should fit on the holder between two stops. After this, the rectangle is cut diagonally, but not from corner to corner, but with a slight indentation, so that triangles with cut off vertices are obtained.

When the wedge and abrasive are placed in the holder, they begin to lightly hit the bases of the triangles with a hammer. These parts must slide over each other, their overall width increases, and the abrasive is clamped. To prevent the holder from moving on the glass, its bottom is covered with thin rubber.

The dolly will allow the knife to move while maintaining a constant angle. The wheels can be anything, you can use bearings, the main thing is that they are smooth. A guide with a blade holder is attached to the trolley. Here too There are two ways to adjust the sharpening angle:

changing the height of the abrasive;
turning the guide with the blade (in this case the cart must have 4 wheels).

In the second option, you can use a rotating mechanism.

Other models

Machine tools in which the tool being processed is stationary have become very popular. A kitchen or other knife is mounted on an inclined platform. Secure fastening obtained by using a magnet; all kinds of clamps (spring or threaded) are also widely used.

A rod is attached to the platform on the opposite side of the knife. It is allowed to use a steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm. The inclination of the platform is selected so that it approximately corresponds to the desired angle of the tool being sharpened. A clamp is attached to the rod, which can be moved if necessary, thereby more accurately setting the angle. A guide moves freely in it - the same metal rod as the rod. For better sliding, a plastic or nylon bushing is inserted into the clamp.

At the other end of the guide (near the tool being sharpened) there are two brackets that are tightened with a nut or wing. A block is inserted into them and secured with a wing or nut.

The machine operates as follows: a blade is placed in the clamps on the inclined platform, the block is tightened with brackets on the guide, and the desired angle is set using the clamp. The angle is measured with a protractor mounted on the blade. The bar begins to make forward movements, processing the entire surface. During grinding, the abrasive is moved in only one direction - from the heel to the blade.

Another machine uses a trapezoid. The long sides are made of steel rods connected to each other by wooden blocks. One rod is attached through a bearing to the rotating mechanism, the other is a guide along which the block moves freely. The knife stand is installed under the carriage on a flat surface. If the first rod of the trapezoid gets in the way when sharpening the tool, the stand can be raised higher.

Thin paper, such as newspaper, will help determine the quality of sharpening. You need to try to cut strips out of it with quick and smooth movements. If this succeeds, then the blade is sharpened correctly.

Reading time ≈ 10 minutes

To maintain the cutting properties of a knife, it is necessary to sharpen them regularly, and a homemade knife sharpening device will help keep these tools in proper condition. A good, sharp knife makes cooking much faster, freeing up extra time for rest. IN this material We will consider the manufacture of special devices for quick and high-quality sharpening of knives.

When a knife is manufactured at the factory, it is given the necessary sharpness. However, with frequent use, it gradually loses its cutting properties. To make a knife sharp again, you need to sharpen it, but doing it correctly is not so easy. Improper sharpening will not give the desired result, and time and effort will be wasted.

Knife manufacturers, responding to the requests of their customers, provided a number of sharpening devices. But factory fittings may not suit knife owners for various reasons. For example, an inappropriate sharpening angle or high price devices. In this case, it may be easier to make a sharpener yourself.

What you need for proper sharpening

Most an important condition Getting a sharp knife is the angle of its sharpening. It would seem that the smaller this parameter, the sharper our tool will be. This is partly true, since a cutting edge that is too thin will wear out and become dull faster.

The sharpening angle depends on functional use knife:

Up to 15 degrees – razor and surgical instruments.
Up to 20 degrees – devices for cutting vegetables, fillets or bread
Up to 25 degrees – knives with multi-directional functionality.
Up to 30 degrees – hunting and camping knives.
Up to 40 degrees – cutting tools special purpose. For example, axes or machetes.

Bottom line! The whole process comes down to restoring the cutting ability of the tool, while maintaining the factory sharpening angle. Violation of the angle can lead to deterioration of the knife.

Sharpening devices

Sharpen a knife at a certain angle without having special devices It’s very difficult, and not every professional can do it. They can be purchased in specialized stores, or made with your own hands. Below we will look at several simple and affordable devices that can add sharpness to most household cutting tools.

A simple machine made from wooden blocks

This method is considered the easiest to manufacture and use. The sharpening material is securely fixed at the desired angle, and sharpening is carried out by holding the knife blade strictly vertically.

To make a simple knife sharpening device you will need:

Four identical wooden bars.
Bolts and nuts for connecting the bars together.
Sharpening bar.
Protractor for determining the sharpening angle.
A drill or other tool for drilling holes in pieces of wood.

The bars are connected in pairs and drilled through them through holes for fastening with bolts. Pairs of bars are installed perpendicular to each other at an angle of 90 degrees. A sharpening stone is installed between the parts of the structure at the required angle, measured with a protractor. The nuts on the bolts are tightened, tightly fixing the abrasive.

The advantage of this device is the relative cheapness of materials and ease of manufacture. Anyone can cope with it, even without relevant experience. The main disadvantages include the inability to smoothly adjust the desired angle.

Sharpening machine from mounting angles

This turning method is considered the most convenient, but creating such a device will require additional effort. It is based on the technology of the famous company Lansky Sharpeners. You can purchase an original machine in company stores, but its cost will be quite high. Below we will look at how to make a similar mechanism yourself.

To assemble the structure, you will need the following materials and tools:

Two metal corners measuring 90x90 mm and 6 mm thick. They are the basis of the mechanism that holds the knife blade.
A metal pin with a thread with a total length of at least 16 cm. It will be the basis for holding the sharpening stone.
Two metal bars required to fix the abrasive.
A thin long rod or knitting needle.
Pliers. Will be needed for bending.
Saw for working with metal.
Tool for processing metal surfaces.
Nuts and bolts for fastening and fixing.
Drill and set of drills for metal.

Having purchased necessary materials in a specialized store, you can begin assembling the structure. Make without drawing correct design will be almost impossible, since all dimensions must be observed to obtain correct angle sharpening. To do this, use the drawing below.

IN metal corners holes are drilled according to the drawing attached above. The edge of the corner that will hold the blade is thinned by grinding. This is necessary so that it does not become a hindrance when sharpening the knife. All drilling sites are processed to remove all possible traumatic areas.

In two metal bars a thread is cut to suit the diameter of the connecting pin and grooves in which the abrasive will be attached. The diagram of the clamp presented below will help you assemble it quickly and without unnecessary difficulties.

A metal rod or knitting needle is bent on one side with pliers. The bent end is inserted into the hole of one of the bars. Its purpose is as a guide when turning to set the desired angle.

The principle of turning on this device:

The main advantages of this machine are its compactness, simplicity and efficiency of sharpening, and the ability to select and fix the angle. The device can be held in your hands, or installed using a holder in a vice. This allows you to take it with you on a hike and use it in the field.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting a limited set of angle parameters and the inability to set an arbitrary value.

This video describes in detail how to make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands using the Lansky system:

Blade locking machine

This method is a modified version of the previous method. The knife is fixed on the base of the machine, and its owner himself adjusts the turning angle. In this case, the compactness and mobility of the machine are lost. It can only be used at home.

To make such a device you will need:

Sheet plywood or chipboard. You can use parts from old furniture.
Threaded stud. It will act as a tripod.
A block of hard wood.
A metal plate for attaching and holding the knife blade to the base.
Fastening Consumables- nuts, bolts.

Assembly of the structure begins with preparing the base. We make the base and legs from wood. They are cut so that after connecting them the base slope is 20 degrees. A threaded pin is installed in the lower part to form a tripod. For additional strength, all places can be treated with sealant or a special adhesive.

A metal plate is installed in the center of the base. First you need to drill a hole in it corresponding to the hole in the base of the machine. Through it, the plate will be pressed against the plate, and thus the knife blade is held.

It is recommended to purchase an aluminum plate, as it will not damage the blade if pressed hard. Also suitable for this purpose are rubber gaskets that reduce negative impact metal on metal and increase the coefficient of friction, which prevents the blade from accidentally moving during a point.

The fastening mechanism for the emery stone is made from the remaining part of the pin and two wooden or metal blocks. Holes are drilled in the bars to suit the size of the stud and secured with nuts on both sides. The stone will be secured by tightening the nuts. This process can be simplified by improving the holder with a spring on the handle side.

To set the sharpening angle, you will need two wooden blocks fastened together with a hinge mechanism. In one part it is necessary to drill a vertical hole to the diameter of the stud. With this part it will be put on a tripod, adjust the sharpening angle and at the same time be rotating mechanism along the horizontal axis.

In the second part, a horizontal hole of slightly larger diameter is drilled. The pin with the emery stone will move in this hole, so it is necessary to completely eliminate the possibility of getting stuck.

Sharpening order:

The main advantages of this method are the ability to set any sharpening angle and quick replacement of the abrasive element. Such homemade machine will help bring any blade to perfect condition.

Disadvantages include relative bulkiness and increased manufacturing complexity. Some parts may require special tools to make.

If you still have any questions about the installation and use of this device, then this video will help you fully understand the essence of the process:

Choice of abrasive element

The whetstone plays an important role in sharpening blades. Most often, to determine the coarseness of an abrasive, a system of digital designation of grains per unit of measurement is used.

Depending on the functional need, the following gradation is distinguished:

Up to 250 – high roughness. Not used for sharpening knives and other cutting tools.
Up to 350 – coarse abrasive. Used to correct physical defects or very dull blades.
Up to 500 – medium abrasive. Used for fitting instruments. Has little demand and is rarely used.
Up to 700 – fine abrasive. The most used type of sharpening tool in everyday use. Allows you to sharpen the blade to an acceptable sharpness.
Up to 1000 – ultra-fine abrasive. Suitable for grinding surfaces and bringing already sharpened tools to perfect sharpness. Not effective for sharpening dull knives.

Thus, if you wish with maximum efficiency sharpen your cutting tools, you need to combine Various types abrasives. For example, particularly dull knives are brought to an acceptable condition rough stones, then sharpening is carried out with a fine abrasive. The process is completed by grinding with ultra-fine stones.

Emery also differs in its origin:

Natural. These include Japanese water stone, which requires special skills and great patience to work with.
Diamond. The most wear-resistant and varied in roughness. The most effective and relatively cheap.
Ceramic. They are considered something in between stones of natural and diamond origin.
Artificial. They are distinguished by their low cost, but with frequent use they quickly become unusable.

I wanted to learn how to sharpen knives, but I won’t say that I didn’t know how to do it at all. Of course, I sharpened it with my hands on the stones, and tried to maintain the angle, but it seemed to work—the knives shredded the paper.

I decided to take this process more seriously. And, as is usual here in Russia, do everything yourself from what is at hand, and even for free. We have such lovers and I am like that. For such people, in fact, this article is.

I looked at sharpening machines on the Internet and settled on Apex. The first thing I did was look for it on Chinese sites, there are, of course, copies and they were inexpensive (before the dollar exchange rate changed), now even Chinese ones are a bit expensive for us. I looked at how it works, what the nuances are. Yes, it looks like it can be repeated.

Making Apex

Looking ahead, I will say that it was not possible to do it completely for free; I still had to spend money, but quite a bit. About 150 rubles.

Instead of a base, I took a 2 mm galvanized sheet. I bent it by eye (for some reason I guessed exactly 20 degrees in the corner). Pinned to chipboard sheet. Instantly glued magnets from old ones hard drives, it took 3 magnets. I looked at the knife rests on the Internet, they are convenient and a great idea. I found a support for the hinge in the garage, it has an 8mm thread.

At first I thought about changing the angle with nuts, but I decided that the angle changes often and it would be inconvenient to move the nuts back and forth and tighten the locknuts each time so that there is no play.

Where can I get a stone guide? Caught my eye old bed, or rather the back, remember, probably, these were the case during the USSR. Why not a barbell from the back? I attached a 25x25 mm square profile to the rod (after sanding it first). Remember the curly bushings there. With their help (it took three pieces), in one you need to drill a hole to 11 mm (diameter of the rod). I added a nut for 10 and a pin with a ball from the same bed, and it turned out to be a comfortable handle.

I decided to sharpen it with sandpaper, there is such a method, it seems to work out very inexpensively and quite well. I bought several sheets of sandpaper of different grain sizes. To avoid sandpaper residue, the length square profile I made the width of the sandpaper sheet 230 mm. I made a cut on the rod and drove an engraving washer of a suitable size into it. Everything came together perfectly, as if it was intended for this.

I was afraid it would be difficult to center the profile, but in this way, the profile fell into place on its own. I glue the sandpaper onto the pencil with stationery glue.

Hinge for sharpener

I thought for a long time about this unit, how to make it so that there was no backlash. I thought of doing this. I went to a bearing store and it turned out that there are such bearings as SHS (in my opinion, the sliding ball stands for). Available in sizes 10, 12, 15 internal diameter holes. But the rod is 11 mm. It's hard without a turner. But a way out was found. In the store across the road they sold spare parts for KAMAZ trucks, and there I found a brass bushing for 10mm brake pipes. I bought ShS-12 (65 rubles) and a bushing (8 rubles). At home I drove the bushing onto the rod, with a hammer it expanded remarkably, I ground it a little to the rod, which is what happened here. I inserted it into the joint (with glue, just in case, to eliminate play) and flared it. Everything has grown together again. There is a small gap left, in the ShS itself, it Russian production and is a little loose (I went through about a dozen in the store - all of them are the same). I wanted to weld the welding joint to the nut for fastening, but another idea came to mind, how to do without welding. I went to a plumbing store and bought pipe fasteners. It says 3/8” costs 27 rubles. I sanded it a little so that the working angle of the joint did not decrease. Next, using a pin with an 8 mm thread, I connected the clamp with a long nut and in the right place I drilled a 9 mm hole using a long nut. The lamb was made from a purchased lamb for 5 rubles. Nuts and studs are the same at 8 mm.

When I assembled it (clamped the joint into the clamp), the play disappeared, the bolts of the clamp compress the joint and the play goes away completely. It turned out better than welding. And when worn out it is easy to replace.

Oddly enough, all the details fell perfectly into place. I had to do a minimum of alterations. There is no backlash. Everything turned out to be very simple, I even made a second rod to polish the cutting edge.

As I have learned, it took about half an hour on the second barbell. I glued it on the edge:

skin for Goya paste
clean skin
wooden ruler with Goya paste
clean wooden ruler

I use them in different sequences.

I want to say that the idea was a success, in two days I sharpened all the knives I could find. Angles can be measured using a household inclinometer, or a telephone with an installed program for measuring angles

Compared with manual method on stones, sharpens much easier and sharper. The paper is planed, the hair is shaved. I haven’t tried trimming my hair, I think it’s too sharp and has no use in life, although with due diligence you can achieve it.

Spent:

ShS-12 – 65 rubles;
brass bushing - 8 rubles;
clamp - 27 rubles;
lamb - 5 rubles;
long nut - 5 rubles;
a sheet of sandpaper 240 - 2 rubles;
sheet of sandpaper 600 - 2 rubles;
sheet of sandpaper 1000 - 10 rubles;
sheet of sandpaper 2000 - 10 rub..

Total: 134 rubles. The rest was found in the garage for nothing. And plus work with your hands and head.

Who is too lazy to tinker, I found an inexpensive sharpener of the same type, the reviews are good, you can buy it.

Also made by hand.

Sharp knives for you.

Article tags:

knife sharpening;
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homemade Apex;
knife sharpener;
sharpening machine.

This article is found by the words:

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Sharpening video.

Almost everyone home handyman cutting tools are available. Over time, the cutting edges lose their former sharpness, and working with such a product becomes unbearable. There are two options for solving this problem: have the tool sharpened and pay a lot of money, or assemble a knife sharpening device yourself and sharpen the products yourself.

Causes of blade dulling

The dulling of the blade can be explained as follows. During cutting, the blade is exposed to tiny abrasive particles, be it fruits or vegetables. Cutting edge The blade gradually wears off and the knife becomes dull. Another reason is to hold the blade when cutting at a certain angle.

Some areas of the blade are subject to increased stress and increased wear.

There are types of knives that are impossible to sharpen yourself due to the textured blades. Also, knives made from ceramics cannot be sharpened. But, as a rule, the quality of the steel in such products is high, and they rarely become dull. There are a variety of knives of low quality, and they have to be sharpened very often. As practice shows, if the steel is of poor quality, then sharpening will solve the problem for a while, and then the blade will become dull again.

To sharpen knives you will need abrasive wheels. If it is not possible to purchase ready-made circles, you can make them yourself using wooden blocks and sandpaper of different grain sizes.

The standard sharpening angle is 20 - 30 degrees. It is quite difficult to maintain the angle during sharpening, and therefore it is necessary to make a simple knife sharpener, in which it is not necessary to maintain optimal angle. The basic rule in this process is maintaining a precisely specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.

Basic mistakes

As it may seem at first glance, sharpening is simple, but if you delve into the process itself, you will notice quite a large number various nuances. Most people make simple mistakes when sharpening knives, which leads to uneven sharpening or damage to the knife. Common Mistakes when sharpening:

The cutting edge was not sharpened. As a result, small burrs form on the sides, which temporarily give sharpness to the blade, and after working with the knife for a short time, the blade again becomes dull. To prevent this problem, you should carefully sharpen both edges, and then, as you sharpen, use sandpaper or a wheel of different grits.
Presence of paint, oil, dirt on the tip. The bottom line is that during turning, fat, dirt, oil and other components mix with grinding abrasives and lead to scratches and microchips of the blade. After such sharpening, the blade quickly becomes dull.
Pressure plays an important role. You need to remember one simple rule: sharpness does not depend on the force used, but on the duration of sharpening. Excessively strong pressure leads to chipping of microparticles from the blade and poor sharpening.
Incorrect angle selection. The angle may vary depending on the grade of steel and the purpose of the tool. For home kitchen knives it is 20 - 25 degrees. For other types of blades that will have to withstand heavy loads and work with hard materials, the angle will be 40 degrees.

By following simple but at the same time appropriate rules for sharpening, you can not only save time, but also not damage the product.

Sharpener "Domik"

A good tool for sharpening knives. Despite simple design, the sharpener does its job well. This structure consists of a bar rectangular shape, the upper edge of which is made in the form gable roof. The angle of inclination of one face is 20 - 25 degrees, which is optimal. The product must be installed with a blade close to one of the roof ridges, then take abrasive wheel or a block with emery and move along horizontal line. This ensures a constant angle of inclination, which leads to uniform sharpening of the blade.

There are also complex designs homemade grinding machine. For manufacturing you will need the following materials:

A piece of board measuring 500x150x20 mm.
A metal pin with a thread that will serve as a guide for the bar.
M8 bolts and nuts and wood screws.
Clamp nuts or wing nuts.
Ordinary PCB or plexiglass, which will serve as a substrate for the knife and a kind of movable frame.
To attach the knife you should take Neodymium magnet. The usual one will not work, since its downforce is quite low.

The board must be cleaned, processed, and then made into a rectangle. Another board should be made rectangular in shape, which will serve as a stand or support. Its height should be such that the slope of the main board is 20 degrees. You can fasten them together with wood screws. Then attach the resulting structure to the workbench or cut out a tabletop in advance, to which one of the studs will be attached. After securely attaching the pin to the tabletop, you need to take a 200x100 block and make two holes in it: one for the main pin, on which the movable carriage with the sharpener will be attached, and the other for the pin, which is attached to the tabletop.

Now you can begin assembling the carriage with the sharpener holder. For the pin that will hold the carriage, you need to make two clamps from wood, plexiglass or metal. Drill holes in the clamps, put them on the stud and secure them on both sides with nuts. The carriage will rotate freely along its axis.

The next step is to install a neodymium magnet on a previously prepared plate. It needs to be done longitudinal groove- so that the tripod can be moved up and down. Drill a hole in the middle of the frame and insert a bolt with a nut, which, in turn, will press the plate. You can simply glue a neodymium magnet to the end of the plate to hold the knife.

The homemade device is ready for use. It can be used to sharpen chisels and planes.

It should be noted that sharpening is carried out without water, so the abrasive paper or wheel will wear out greatly, but this option is quite suitable for sharpening knives and tools at home.

Homemade knife

If the farm has one, it will facilitate the process, but there is one circumstance. When sharpening on a machine, it is almost impossible to apply even pressure on the knife. Therefore, it is possible to make a device for sharpening knives, which will serve as a guide for the blade and ensure uniform pressure. The result is a simple but effective electric sharpener. To make it you will need the following components:

Beam.
Four bolts or four studs with M8 thread.
Four lambs.
Self-tapping screws for wood.

Opposite the electric sharpener, a guide is attached along which the slider will move. The guide itself can be attached to the workbench or a pre-made frame can be made. It must be mobile. To do this, you can cut a longitudinal groove in the frame and secure the tripod with two studs. Then take two bars, drill holes on the sides, insert studs and tighten them with screws on both sides. The next step will be the mount on which the cutting product will rest. This can be done using small pieces of timber, which should be attached to the sides of the moving carriage.

After this you can start sharpening. Set the movable carriage to the desired height and clamp it with the thumbscrews. Move the tripod itself to the required distance, securely fasten it and sharpen the product by moving the knife along the side guides.

Sharpener LM

If in the future you plan to do professional sharpening of tools in large quantities, then you can make a sharpener called: Lansky-Metabo. Fixture drawings for sharpening knives with your own hands look like this:

If the product is clamped in the clamps with the root part, the sharpening angle will be greatest. A knife with this angle can be used as a “cleaver” and for processing hard wood. You can also easily sharpen knives from jointer. Knife clamps can be made from angle iron or wood. The disadvantage of this design is the complexity of assembly and the large number of parts.

If it is not possible to assemble a complex tool for sharpening knives, then you can make do with improvised means and make manual knife sharpeners. A simple sharpener can be made from a corner frame into which a touchstone is mounted.

If you add a sliding carriage to the sharpener, you won’t have to hold the knife at a certain angle, which, in turn, will have a good effect on sharpening the blade. To make a movable carriage you will need a triangular block and a magnet. It is best to use a neodymium magnet, which allows you to attract the knife and fix it securely. If such a magnet is not available, then you can take components from the HDD (hard drive).

Before you give a knife or other product for sharpening, you should familiarize yourself with the material, which will help not only in making a sharpener with your own hands, but also save a certain amount. The main aspect is to gain additional experience, which will be useful in the future.