Swedish style house designs. Window insulation using Swedish technology

Registration: 01/02/15 Messages: 216 Thanks: 1,276

Last edited: 01/08/17

Registration: 01/02/15 Messages: 216 Thanks: 1,276

So, today is a day off and I continue as promised. I missed last weekend, for which I repent and apologize in every possible way, but I had a respectful reason: I worked hard and by the sweat of my brow. Yesterday was Saturday and I was at home, but I also couldn’t write, because on Friday the vile bird “Perepil” unexpectedly pecked me in the loin of my magnificent Swedish work pants and put my not very bright head out of action for a day, so that I spent almost the entire Saturday recovered from his injury. But taking advantage of the forced creative downtime, I uploaded to YouTube and edited a video telling about the area where construction is taking place and about the principles of the formation of the village. The video can be extremely useful for both representatives of engineering services and ordinary developers. I filmed it amateurishly, so don’t expect any directorial delights - my work is pure journalism
The link to the video is here. I recommend watching the video and then continuing reading the manuscript.

So, let's get down to the house itself. A house, as you know, is a kind of structure consisting of thousands of various parts, however, most of them are not very necessary or even completely unnecessary. Be that as it may, this whole pile of building materials weighs quite a few tons and all this wealth puts pressure on... Who said “on the ground”? It is the amateurs who have their house on the ground, while the professionals have it not on the ground, but on the ground, and it does not stand, but rests on it, and it is not the house, but the foundation!
That's where we'll start.
So when I first arrived, the foundation was ready. Almost approaching the canopy, I discovered a seventy-ton structure, called in the language of Celsius and Nobel platta på mark and in the great and mighty one christened with a three-letter sign: U. Sh. P. Which, translated into layman's language, stands for “insulated Swedish stove.” Summary structures for those who slept during strength-of-materials lessons: the soil at the construction site is planned and leveled, upper layer they are removed along with vegetation and living creatures, because there is nothing for the flora and fauna to do where the king of nature (as he naively thinks of himself) and his wife and children will be registered. IN in this case the planners got so carried away that they even demolished a piece of rock that rises right behind the house. Having prepared the soil, you need to lay engineering Communication(or rather pipes and channels), then fill the surface with three dump trucks of crushed stone (about half the weight of the foundation) - carefully tamping every few centimeters of the next layer. then a foam pad is laid out on the resulting crushed stone platform. If someone’s virgin soul wandered here by chance and doesn’t believe its eyes, then I confirm: yes, polystyrene foam. Specifically, expanded polystyrene, even more specifically, expanded polystyrene foam class S-80, which means that it can support a load of up to 8 tons per square meter. True, this is a somewhat fraudulent characteristic, so it is written in small letters and upside down, because this is the value of a short-term load under which the material is not allowed to deform by more than 1 or 2 percent - I forgot this detail. And the long-term characteristic is four times lower, that is, two tons per square meter or 20 kilopascals. Actually, this figure determines the “load-bearing” capacity of foam plastics, plastics and other building materials - compressive strength - and in our case it is determined by the letter S and a number. The most popular foams on our market are ordinary white foam. We are still like this school age They drove teachers into hysterics when they rubbed a slobbery piece on the glass. In general, it's just foam. There are stronger varieties, but we are not interested in them now. I hope I didn’t confuse anything after the vile pecking of the vile bird...
So, polystyrene foam is laid out on the compacted crushed stone. In one layer, 100 millimeters thick. And along the perimeter the so-called “edging elements” are laid, these are pieces of the same foam plastic glued at 90 degrees, with one side already plastered or lined with mineralite - a material similar to plasterboard but not afraid of street precipitation. This side will subsequently become the base and will not need to be processed, which is undoubtedly humane in relation to the builders. Elements are purchased ready-made in the store. And similar corner elements of three slabs are installed in the corners. Having built the entire perimeter in this way and covering the crushed stone inside the perimeter, we get a huge foam bath. At the request of the developers, the average layer of floor insulation must be at least 250 millimeters of effective insulation. Polystyrene foam is quite effective, it has a lambda of the order of 0.04 watt-square-kelvin (I don’t remember the exact formula and sequence now, but if anyone needs it, I’ll tell you where to look, gee...) and we lay two more layers of foam plastic on the resulting pillow, Fortunately, the height of the sides allows 400 millimeters. It turns out to be such a large but shallow bathtub, only an inch deep, and you don’t need to be a famous mathematician to calculate the exact value of this inch. But under the load-bearing walls we leave the foam in one layer, there we will have a concrete depth of all thirty centimeters, because load-bearing walls are cool and require respect. Below I will attach some funny pictures, made with my shaking crooks in Paint by the method of brazenly isolating everything unnecessary from the architectural drawings - everything is there in section, full face and profile. For those who don’t have enough and want even more details, go to Google, it will tell you everything using this phrase: platta på mark - and you will find your happiness. Well, or at least the information I was looking for.
I continue: The resulting bathtub is reinforced with pieces of iron, underfloor heating pipes, cold water and hot water supply water pipes, and, if necessary, corrugated hoses for cables and wires are placed in it, sewerage is laid out, and when everything is ready, it is ceremonially poured with concrete. The surface of the concrete at the setting stage is rubbed with floats, popularly called “helicopters”, and as a result the result is the smoothest concrete surface, smooth like an expensive marble countertop. Walls, ceilings, and a roof are placed on such a slab, and it turns out that the entire house practically stands on foam plastic. Then click parquet or other material is laid on this slab through a standard three-millimeter substrate. finishing coat. There are various subtleties and details, I will not mention them all, because as I already wrote, by the time I appeared, the slab was already filled with three dozen tons of concrete and even piled on top with snow and ice.

Precipitation attacked while the guys were installing the awning, and attacked, melted and froze. But we needed a flat area to work on, and here a mistake was made - someone sprinkled salt on the ice. You dealt with ice this way, but NEVER do this on reinforced concrete - the salt gets into the concrete and enters into a chemical reaction with the iron of the reinforcement. In our case, there was little salt, they removed it immediately and the stove will always be dry and warm, but if someone wants to have a so-so marathon on the balcony, UNDER NO WAY!
But this was only part of the foundation. The main, load-bearing part. The fact is that according to the architect’s design, in the place where the rock was cut down, it was necessary to raise walls made of another material to the height of the floor. It happens: a house, for example, is frame (the most common in our country) a private house from new buildings) and in a critical place they pour a concrete wall or build it from lightweight concrete blocks - after all, snowdrifts can accumulate there, and mountains of leaves, it turns out that it is not harmful to create such a high plinth in the back of the building. In our case, the material chosen was a lecablock - and in Russian, an expanded clay concrete block with a density... By the way, I don’t know which one, I think 500 or 600. By the time I arrived, the blocks had already been purchased and even partially placed on the slab. And everything would have been fine if not for one severe BUT like the Chebarkul meteorite. In plan, the wall consisted of three parts - one end and two pieces along long walls Houses.

But on the horizon is this caricature of the model of the great Chinese wall was divided in height above the floor into 10 levels. Ten, Karl! And the floor itself was the eleventh level! Which one? HU... To the artist! Did you come up with such a creative solution? Well, two, okay, three, although this is already too much, but ten! Mine is in shock... Here, I’m posting incriminating evidence in two planes, dug up using the same barbaric method as the previous graffiti.

Structurally, the wall was also not the simplest. In fact, two parallel walls were built from expanded clay concrete blocks 10x190x590 mm for the most banal masonry mortar with ligation of the walls with stainless steel rods (yep, stainless steel!) with a diameter of 10 mm, but between the walls a fifty-millimeter layer of the same S-80 foam plastic was laid. Well, considering that thermal conductivity expanded clay concrete blocks, even without taking into account seams, is twenty times higher the same meaning polystyrene foam, then five centimeters of the latter added the same amount of “heat” as a meter of expanded clay concrete would give. By the way, this is for those who like to build stone houses without insulation: the thermal transfer level of conventional foam plastic is 0.04w/m.kv*K versus 0.2 for expanded clay concrete. Data from material manufacturers. Let me remind you, by the way, of one more point: the thermal conductivity of porous and bulk materials strongly depends on their humidity. Without going into details, the manufacturer always states data for dry material, but in fact its moisture content depends on various factors and in winter time in cold climates (i.e. with negative temperatures) outer wall houses made of porous or granular material without proper vapor barrier have a strong high humidity and its actual thermal insulation properties are reduced by (there are borrowed data) 15-20%. Foam concrete manufacturers somehow forget to tell their customers about this point. Foam plastics are significantly less susceptible to this influence due to some factors that I don’t plan to talk about now.
Well, in short, the wall is built in two layers, reinforced along its length and with connecting transverse bridges through insulating dividing foam. The upper platforms are filled with a five-centimeter “armour-belt”, the essence of which is not to connect a dozen separate wall areas, but to accept and distribute the load from those upper “normal” walls that will put pressure on our “basement” floor. By the time I arrived, the wall was partially built and I expressed doubts (to put it mildly) about its compliance with local thermal resistance standards. Despite the five-centimeter foam, this is clearly not enough. We decided that later we would return to discussing additional insulation of the wall, most likely on the outside with 70 mm EPS or PPU slabs. That's what they agreed on. But it was too early for me to start work - three qualified specialists were spinning on one heel, the contractor supplied them with everything they needed, and I still had unfinished work at the previous site and other people were waiting for a couple of small but urgent matters, so for another week we broke up. And a week later the material arrived and we had everything ready for the next operations, which I will tell you about next time.
Ugh! I hope this post counts as two
Always yours - Kostya G. Sweden.

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Last edited: 01/23/17

Registration: 01/02/15 Messages: 216 Thanks: 1,276

Let's continue the conversation. The other day I found a couple of parts lying around in the backyard to illustrate the previous story. In the first photo is the same “L-edging element” in person. This is a small model, 200 mm high. They probably don’t do it below, I don’t remember seeing anything. This is quite suitable for building a small house, summer house, extension or barn. In our case, our unfinished garage stands on these. During the installation process, they are fastened to each other with steel plates like those in the photo. This is so that during the process of laying fittings and pipes the blocks do not move apart.

In the next picture I have attached “back to back” a piece of a “full-size” element from which the foundation of the house was built. As you can see, the design is the same, but the height of the base part is higher. The "plaster" is also visible.

So while I wandered around the hell was busy with other work, the guys built it valiantly stone walls, received and unloaded construction material delivered from overseas for load-bearing walls. Here I consider it unfair not to insert a couple of lines about my colleagues.
Three middle-aged Latvians communicate with each other in their own language, of which I understand six words. But I’m studying well and by the end of the project I plan to double GDP Ouch , lexicon Latvian At one time, this happened in the Lithuanian brigade and now I can chat with any Lithuanian about anything in Russian, inserting the entire dozen Lithuanian words I know. In addition to Latvian, my new comrades speak Russian and English. English is generally a thing in Europe, almost all Swedes speak it, so if anyone decides to go to Scandinavia on vacation, then with English you will be in full communication almost everywhere. I know people who stubbornly did not learn Swedish for 10 years while constantly living here - the available English was enough for them. Well, after two five-year plans, of course, Swedish will already stick on its own, during which time you will learn to understand like a cat. Yes, and Swedish fits into English much better than into Russian. The trouble is that I’m not a Swede or a Latvian and they didn’t teach me English, so here I learned Swedish right away, without an English “intermediary”, as a result of which I speak the latter not much better than Latvian. In everyday communication this does not create problems for me, but when there are collective meetings at sites with foreign workers, everyone automatically switches to English and I blink my eyes like a fool, trying to understand at least what they are talking about. Then I always ask someone again, clarifying the details. One of the Latvians has experience working as a signalman, and this includes: electrics, data, cables, trenches, tractors and excavators with all related skills. Another has experience working both on mega-constructions (it turns out we both worked on one of these) and in exclusive carpentry with valuable varieties of exotic species), and the third is simply a universal soldier. A very smart set, otherwise no matter what the construction is, I’m always torn between some narrow specializations alone. Here, then, there is someone to work on an excavator, and to do electrical work, and to do plumbing. This is good.

In addition to the builders, the site has a full-size trailer-dacha used as a camper. The trailer is powered from the mains and is equipped with a kettle, microwave, etc. I practically never use it, because I have a good appetite even in the fresh air.
The building material was manufactured in Lithuania and delivered. The men unloaded it immediately onto the foundation, under the awning, to protect it from precipitation. Content of this material dry as a baby's bottom is a must! I have never worked with such material before.
The load-bearing walls of the house will be made of blocks made at the “factory”. I don’t know how big that “factory” is, maybe a small workshop. And even most likely - a workshop, it doesn’t matter, what matters is that it’s clearly not on the knee. These are spatial elements made of wooden beams and plywood, roughly speaking wooden boxes filled with straw. Straw, Karl! That is, naturally - straw from the fields, even threshed spikelets are found! Despite the experience of harvesting cereals with combines in the vast expanses of our homeland that was once shared with Latvians and Lithuanians, I am not strong in collective farm botany and cannot determine the plant variety, but the smell we now have is like a barn in the hayloft! At least bring some chicks!

The design of the blocks inspires confidence. Plywood and beams are twisted together with concrete screws, seats under the flat "mounting heads of large self-tapping screws of the "press washer" type are deepened by Forstner. The plywood is smooth, without visible flaws, the wood is planed, the straw is not rotten, without debris. The workmanship is more than good, you can only get to the bottom with a strong desire, which I do not have . The discrepancy in size is purely symbolic, in some places up to a millimeter, a maximum of two, no more. But most of the blocks fit neck and neck, even if you shoot it into a cannon. For such a not very stable material as wood, this excellent result. In this regard, the Lithuanians pleased us. What was not pleasing was the weight of some of the blocks. The blocks are different. Completely different. All blocks have a common depth due to the wall thickness of 400 mm (yup, 400!), and the other two parameters and shape are unique as the tricks of my children. The smallest are about the size of desk, but large ones with a good wardrobe. And now imagine a wardrobe filled with straw from the heart. I don’t know how much such a block weighs, but only four people could lift these to a height above the waist, and even then I was worried about my back. I already had an experience where, after shockingly dragging a truckload of material for a day, a couple of days later I suddenly collapsed from acute pain in my back. I literally fell over right at my workplace, the sudden pain in my lower back just knocked me down. I lay around at home for a couple of weeks and didn’t lift anything heavier than one board for another week. In short, I have now seen such work without lifting mechanisms in my grave. But we don’t have any mechanisms and lift them manually, constructing various platforms from racks and other blocks. It’s fortunate that the guys are healthy and strong, and I’m probably the frailest among them. Or the most cunning one, go figure me out... Be that as it may, we have these blocks and it’s time to install supports for them. Which is what I did.
The supports consist of two parallel 45x95mm beams laid on a sponge rubber tape and pressed to the foundation with steel clamps. Rubber was not chosen by chance: it provides not only insulation of concrete from wood - mandatory condition according to our standards, but also maintains almost complete tightness against air suction between concrete and wood. This condition must be met, since our house must be airtight. Therefore, the pressing should be good, although I’m not worried about this issue - the walls of the house will then press everything as it should. But still, we didn’t select any kind of fasteners. They abandoned wedging anchors - they were time-consuming and expensive. The outer row was secured with spacer bushings and the inner row with concrete screws. The spacer sleeve is a strong steel tube cut along the body. Its nose is narrowed and the “hat”, on the contrary, is widened to look like a funnel.

A hole is drilled in the concrete directly through the beam (however, I pre-drilled the beam with a wooden drill, it’s more fashionable) into which, again, this “crutch” is driven through the beam with a hammer. It holds it in such a way that you can only tear it out with a crowbar, and even then some of them sit so tightly in the concrete that they are sunk halfway into the wood. It is completely impossible to remove screws for concrete except with a piece of concrete, but they are much more expensive, so they were used in shorter lengths for the inner row of the support and longer driven fasteners for the outer row.

This is so that you don’t accidentally get into the underfloor heating pipes in concrete. I used two screwdrivers and two hammer drills. I drilled the beams with a cartridge drill, then drilled them with a small diameter using a battery punch, then unrolled these channels with a network punch with the required diameter drill and an impact tool were already screwing screws into the concrete. The network equipment is for the brigade, the battery devices are mine. This two-pass drilling scheme provides maximum hole accuracy, minimum deviation from given point. The accuracy of the installation of the walls depends on the accuracy of the installation of our guides, and considering that we are the “designer”, an error of half a centimeter will be visible. So, precision is the courtesy of kings!

But here at every step I was already remembering the sophisticated architects! I hope they hiccupped there for those couple of days so much that they couldn’t even eat! After all, in the plan (the plan is a top view and not what some people thought) all the pieces of wood should line up in perfect lines, and in the horizon there are eleven levels! I never touched their ancestors on the female line!

Next, foam plastic was laid between the beams, cutting the “cold bridge” and the entire resulting area was covered with a four-millimeter substrate, which was originally intended for lining under laminate or parquet board but it works quite well here too. The substrate is terribly environmentally friendly, made from exclusively natural ingredients and you can even eat it while walking, if the cook doesn't lie to us(C) It feels like a mixture of felt and cardboard, the color is green, the price, I suspect, is immodest and her last name... And her last name is too famous to name it here!
Yes, I would call it, but the moderator will again delete the whole post, we swam, we know... So we’ll call it felt!

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Last edited: 01/28/17

Registration: 01/02/15 Messages: 216 Thanks: 1,276

In addition, there is a very clear installation diagram for each wall.

In general, there were not many problems with identification and installation. The main problem is the weight of the individual blocks. If I have to participate in the next order for such a building, I will set the conditions for smaller blocks to be made at a level above the first floor. The second problem is the straw that fell into our faces, down our collars, down our bosoms, and into other places. intimate parts When you work actively in the cold, straw dust and crumbs make themselves felt very cheerfully on your sweaty body. Perhaps next time I’ll have to order non-shattering straw
The fastening elements were brought to us in the same kit, these were very serious screws of excellent quality - no savings! Everything is grown up! The blocks are installed on a prepared foundation and attached to wooden beams and to each other with screws, forming a wall. The following blocks are placed on them. Of course, we have sworn from the bottom of our hearts more than once and remembered the architect with a gentle, quiet word...

So, within a week the entire first floor was built, and suddenly we had nothing to do. The material ran out and the next transport was expected in a week and a half. In general, we somehow hurried with the rapid pace of work. I again moved to my clients for a few days, it was there that the need arose for me, one of the Latvians went home, the two remaining were tinkering with the site with a garage and some other small things. Then I came back and we covered one wall of the garage with façade board. The facade board for the garage was also not ordinary. This is the so-called Thermowood - a Swedish development, thermally treated coniferous wood. An alternative to pressure-impregnated wood (Tryckimpregnerat trä) and naturally rot-resistant wood. Pressure impregnation is a method that has come to replace the treatment with creosote - a terribly smelly and toxic resin that was used to impregnate sleepers and roadside telegraph poles everywhere - remember, right? Creosote also turned out to be a strong carcinogen. Creosote was replaced by a method of impregnating metals with salts, primarily copper, but now there’s a lot of stuff mixed in there. The method itself also changes over time, some salts are replaced by others, the technology also changes, but the essence is something like this - ready-made commercial wood (already sawn, planed and properly dried) is placed in huge sealed vats and filled with a solution of these salts, after which a vacuum is created there (or don’t create), cook (or don’t cook) but in the end they always give high pressure and thus the pieces of wood are soaked through (or almost through) with this solution. The places where the brine has not reached are already quite dense and need less special protection, thus the entire piece of wood is more or less protected from rot and mold. This is the same "green" board that I mentioned at the beginning of today's post. The guarantee for such treated wood is 20 years. This means that even in a swamp, such a piece of wood has no right to rot in 19 years and 11 months, provided you have a receipt, of course! There are different protection classes, there is a light one - for window frames or attic elements, and there is one that can actually be buried in a swamp. But all this, if not cool, is chemistry, and our customer, as you already guessed, did not choose a thatched house so that he could then sheathe the facade with a set of heavy metal salts. He wanted to sheathe it with larch, fortunately it hangs on the façade side of the eyelids without any chemicals and does not will require no protection, not even painting. In this plan better than larch only exotic varieties tropical trees, but there is a price - mom don't worry! For example, this Ipe tree, which I used to lay the floor of the terrace and balcony, will not rot either, but a square meter of such a board costs more than 100 euros. However... The truth is beautiful, no doubt about it. In short, larch seems to fit well into the price-quality ratio, but I opposed it. I stated that I would cover the façade with either impregnated wood, exotic wood, saxaul, or even sliced ​​cacti, but I would not give any guarantee on larch, because it was a sad experience.