Wiring in houses made of timber. Cable laying on wooden structures according to the regulations

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Despite the pursuit modern technologies In recent years, some industries have been returning to their roots. The most striking example is the construction sector: people much more often give preference to the construction of country wooden houses. This is facilitated by a number of reasons, ranging from lightness and efficiency to the environmental friendliness of the final product.

Wood is a natural anti-allergenic material. Thanks to latest innovations 100% natural substances are used in the construction of such buildings. Wood has its drawbacks, and the main one is the increased level of fire danger. Therefore, wiring in wooden house must comply with all recommendations, installation and operation rules. And it doesn’t matter whether you lay it yourself or turn to professional specialists for help.

What kind of electrical wiring is suitable for a wooden house?

Not a single modern residential building, whether it is made of wood, concrete or adobe blocks, can do without electricity. Depending on what building materials were used to construct the building, the organization of electrical wiring will have various features. The main nuance of wiring in a wooden house is the increased risk of fire and more high requirements to the quality of wiring.

Open or closed

There are two main types of electrical wiring: open and closed. In the first case, the cable is located in an open place: attached to the walls, laid on external shelves, and so on.

The process of laying cables using the open method in a wooden house can be done in one of two main ways:

  1. Using boxes, corrugated pipes or cable channels. This option is appropriate for houses with flat walls, which, for example, are finished with clapboard. The key advantage of this approach is the availability of the cable, the possibility of prompt repair or replacement, and the installation of an additional branch. Since the wires are open, they are perfectly cooled, which eliminates the possibility of overheating or fire. For better ventilation, the cable channel cavity should be filled with wires 60% or less.
  2. For wooden house From rounded logs, cable installation using insulators is suitable. First, ceramic rollers, which are excellent dielectrics, are fixed, then cables are attached to them. This technology is outdated and rarely used even today. Ideally, multi-colored twisted pair cables should be used.

  1. Installation on brackets. An alternative method that is suitable if it is impossible to lay the cable in boxes or fix it on insulators.
  2. Retro wiring that allows you to most effectively and unusually disguise the cable fixed on the walls and under the ceiling.

Hidden installation of electrical wiring is appropriate and desirable in all situations where external walls, the floor and ceiling of the house were not yet covered finishing materials. For wooden houses, cables should be hidden in metal or corrugated pipes. The use of plastic cable ducts is strictly prohibited. The method requires large investments, but allows for high-quality and safe installation, hiding the cable from view.

It is impossible to say for sure whether hidden or open electrical wiring is better or worse for a wooden house. It all depends on individual preferences, operating conditions, the presence or absence of a suitable tool and other factors. For example, the walls in the house have already been finished, so you don’t want to tear down the lining to perform hidden installation. In such a case, the open installation method is chosen.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

Above, we determined that wood is the most dangerous and flammable construction material, used as a basis for the construction of residential buildings.

We list the basic requirements that must be followed when organizing electrical wiring in a wooden house:

  1. Increased level of electrical and fire safety. Make sure that cables and wires are laid in such a way that will minimize the likelihood of overheating of the insulation and subsequent ignition, and will prevent the spread of open flame to other parts of the wooden structure. During the design process, full compliance must be achieved technical parameters and performance characteristics of the wires and products used at peak load for a specific section of the circuit. To reduce the likelihood of overheating, empty cavities are left in cable channels and metal corrugations, and the wire cross-section is taken with a margin of 20-30%. To increase security, it is advisable to choose open method gaskets, which allows you to monitor the condition of the wires throughout the entire service life, perform timely diagnostics, identifying and promptly eliminating damage.

  1. High quality insulation. Electrical shield must be reliably isolated from any wooden products. Ideally, you need to choose rooms with a partition made of non-combustible materials.
  2. Reliable guide. It is best to use three-wire copper wires with high-quality non-combustible insulation. Avoid laying cables through PVC corrugation.
  3. Efficient automation. Each group of working devices in the electrical circuit must be supplemented with a circuit breaker. Operation threshold of this product depends on the permissible current load. Try not to overestimate these values, otherwise the conductor will overheat.

Regulations

All requirements and rules for installing electrical wiring in a wooden house are clearly stated in three documents:

  1. PUE, edition 7. The main document that guides the design of electrical networks of residential buildings. Here you will find basic recommendations for selecting cables, distribution equipment, automatic protection devices and lighting devices.
  2. SNiP 3.05.06-85. Describes the organization of electrical wiring in old and new buildings. From the document you will learn the basic methods of connecting and inserting wires into living rooms.
  3. SNiP 31-02. Additional rules and recommendations that are important to consider when laying cables in a residential building.

These SNiPs contain many technical terms and parameters, so this language will be incomprehensible to an inexperienced person. Thus, it is enough to study the corresponding edition of the PUE.

Drawing up a diagram

Building an electrical wiring diagram – preparatory stage, prior to any cable installation or replacement work. Only a competent and technically correct project guarantees high-quality installation reliable and safe electrical circuit that complies with rules and regulations.

When drawing up a diagram of future electrical wiring, follow a number of recommendations:

  1. Important electrical components, including panels, meters and sockets, must be placed in accessible places. You must be able to get to such a unit at any time in order to carry out prompt repair or replacement, eliminating the possibility of fire or short circuit.
  2. Place the switches on open places so that they are not cluttered with furniture. This error has often occurred in Soviet time and today it is not uncommon to find hidden switches in the homes of parents and grandparents. The ideal height for any switch is at least 50 cm from the floor.
  3. When choosing the location of future outlets, think in advance where all household appliances should be located. Try to install a number of outlets that will be sufficient to operate devices without extension cords. The height from the floor for sockets should be 25-50 cm. In theory, it is enough to have one socket for every 6 square meters. m. However, if the situation requires it, then their number can be increased.

  1. Twists and frequent bends are excluded electric cable. It is desirable that all the lines in the diagram be at right angles to the floor, ceiling and walls - horizontally or vertically. Bottom or top electrical wiring is used: the cable is placed at a distance of 15 cm from the floor or ceiling, respectively.
  2. It is important to use metal junction boxes for connecting wires. The use of plastic or wooden products is prohibited.

Preparing a home power supply project

Before you start designing wiring for a wooden house, you need to contact your electricity supplier to obtain technical specifications. It is from them that you need to start when doing this work. First, you should calculate the total power consumed by all electrical appliances in the house, including lighting sources.

Further development of the project is as follows:

  1. Build technical diagram residential building. Indicate on the plan all the places where sockets, switches and lighting sources will be located. Add electrical devices that require separate connections to the circuit.
  2. The type of cable is selected depending on the characteristics of the electrical point. For example, for two-gang switches and grounded outlets require a three-wire wire.

  1. Indicate the location of all junction boxes. In a pair of adjacent rooms, you can use one common one.
  2. Add the power of all individual appliances to the plan. If your device is equipped electric motor, then you should indicate the starting power of the unit.
  3. Devices are divided into different groups: one includes lighting products, the other includes powerful boilers, boilers and electric stoves. Switching must be carried out through differential automatic machines, which should be indicated in the diagram.
  4. Mark the distance between the cable and door/window openings, electrical points and floor/ceiling.

Important! Any rotation of the cable must be done at a right angle (90 degrees).

At the end of the work a calculation is made maximum power, which will be required when all electrical devices in the house. This allows you to determine the load level on the input machine.

Selecting cables and electrical devices

To select a cable, any table that indicates the ratio of wire cross-section to a specific load is suitable. You can use a special electrical reference book. The cable cross-section is selected depending on the power of electrical appliances and their number in separate group. You can find out the level of consumed load from the equipment data sheet or by studying the label on the product (packaging). To determine the cross-section of the input cable, the powers of all electrical appliances are summed up, and a small margin of 20-30% is taken.

NYM brand copper wires are popular for wooden houses. This product has an additional insulating shell and is characterized by durability and ease of use. If you use an aluminum cable, try to avoid frequent kinks. In addition, it often breaks during the cutting process.

Three-core cables are used for sockets and lighting fixtures, increasing the safety of the equipment. Grounding is required when operating any powerful equipment, including street floodlights.

The choice of sockets and switches is based on the current load, the type of electrical wiring (open or hidden), the ability to switch the entire unit and the switch in one frame.

Selection of input cable and circuit breaker at the input

After calculating the rated load of the devices, select a suitable cross-section for the input cable. In the event of an upgrade of electrical wiring and the need to replace internal cables and circuit breakers to increase power, it is necessary to replace the input wire.

Having changed the wiring in the house, installing strong circuit breakers, you may encounter another problem: a lack of cross-sectional area for the input cable, which will subsequently cause a fire. It is prohibited to change the input cable yourself, so the only way out is to contact your electricity supplier with a corresponding request.

Three-phase electrical networks require the connection of a three-pole circuit breaker. Single-phase networks are more common and for them one- and two-pole differential circuit breakers are used to break the phase with the neutral.

Advice! When choosing a differential circuit breaker, consider a rated power that will be sufficient to break the circuit and prevent a short circuit, rather than a complete power outage in the house when the maximum load is reached.

Rating and type of machine for single-phase power supply

When choosing a circuit breaker, use the following formulas:

  1. The total power of all electrical appliances and the maximum permissible current load: I (max) = P/U*cosA, where cosФ is equal to 0.8. The resulting current value is corrected using a correction factor equal to 1.1. As a result, a current will be obtained, upon reaching which the device will operate. A 25 A circuit breaker is usually sufficient for the cable entry at home.
  2. To determine the type of machine, you must calculate the minimum value of the short circuit current. For a single-phase 220 V network, a simple formula is used: I (short circuit) = 3260 * S/L, where S is the cross-section of the wire in square millimeters, and L is its length in meters. This formula is relevant for an extended section with small cross-section wires.
  3. The ratio of short circuit current to maximum current is the most important parameter circuit breaker. For wooden houses, type C differential circuit breakers are more often chosen, suitable for mixed-load electrical networks.

The input circuit breaker for a private house is placed after the electric meter. This device, together with the metering device and the RCD, is fixed in a special panel mounted on a metal profile.

Installing electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The process of installing electrical wiring in a wooden house is divided into several stages:

  • placement of power input cable;
  • installation of a distribution panel;
  • installation of cable lines;
  • fastening switches and sockets;
  • contact switching;
  • checking network functionality.

These works will require availability different instruments, including electric drill with a crown, a screwdriver with various attachments, an indicator and rubber gloves to protect against electric shock.

Installation of distribution panel

The input cable from the nearest electrical pole is laid into the house. Any branches are excluded before it ends up in the main distribution panel.

The shield includes several important components:

  1. Plastic or metal body. For wooden houses, the second option is preferable. There are no strict regulations regarding the size of the box, so proceed from individual devices and make a reserve. Please note that upgrades may be required in the future. electrical network.
  2. Electricity meter with seal.
  3. Automatic switch at the input. A device with two or three poles is selected. The electricity supplier places a seal on this equipment.

  1. Additional single-pole circuit breakers mounted on DIN rails. The number of such devices is not regulated in any way. The home electrical network is divided into several sections, so a separate circuit breaker is installed for each. One zone can be allocated for illuminating the courtyard and buildings near a residential building, another - rooms, and so on. The power of the machine will be calculated individually for working area. The main condition for calculations is timely operation due to overload in weak areas. For example, if the permissible current load for an outlet is 15 A, then the machine should trip at the slightest excess of this value.
  2. The residual current device is expensive, and most homeowners ignore installing it. The device turns off the power supply when a leak is detected. This will prevent electric shock. Only a qualified specialist will be able to select a device with suitable technical and operational parameters.

Cabling

The wiring is hidden in cable ducts or under baseboards. The work consists of several stages. At the first stage, the wire is cut into segments, the number of which depends on the number of sockets and switches. The length of a separate wire is equal to the distance between the socket and switches with a margin of 15-20 cm.

Next, the installation of cable channels is carried out, which are attached strictly vertically or horizontally. To ensure the boxes are level, use building level. At the end of the work, the electrical wire is placed inside the cable channels, but do not rush to close them.

Electrical installation of distribution boxes

A junction box should be installed wherever the main cable branches to connect outlets or switches. The device is used to divide power lines and further distribute them to other parts of the room.

The cable is secured in the box using one of the following methods:

  1. Using PPE caps, which differ in size and color. To install, the end of the wire is stripped 30 mm, twisted, then threaded through the cap and twisted. The twisted ends of the two sections are hidden in the distribution box so as to prevent contact with other twists.
  2. Special vags. This product is selected depending on specific sizes. The devices differ in the number of holes for wiring and cross-section. For switching, the ends of the wires are stripped to 10-15 mm, after which they are placed in the holes until they click. The ends of the cables are run in different directions, excluding contact and short circuit.
  3. Twisted with electrical tape. After stripping the ends, the two wires are twisted together and then covered with electrical tape. Insulated twist located inside distribution box.

Installation of switches and sockets

Sockets and switches are attached directly to the wall. Before installation, aluminum or asbestos insulation is laid. The sockets are screwed as tightly and firmly as possible to prevent loosening. When connecting a three-core cable, the yellow-green wire is used for grounding.

Installation of lighting fixtures

Lighting fixtures in a private residential building are divided into three main categories:

  • built-in;
  • invoices;
  • street

It is important to use metal platforms for fastening wall lamps, sconces and similar ceiling products, which will increase fire safety. Switching the lamp to the network is carried out according to a simple scheme using yellow-green wires. Each product is equipped with contacts for connecting to a three-phase network.

How difficult is the job of replacing wiring?

Replacing wiring in a wooden house does not present any difficulties for experienced craftsmen. The process will be especially easy if an external gasket is used. After turning off the power supply at the input machine, all old cable lines are removed and a new wire of a suitable cross-section is laid in their place.

If there is hidden wiring in the house, it is absolutely not necessary to destroy all the walls. You can disconnect the old wiring from the input machine, attach a new cable to it and install it using the open method.

Grounding device and installation of RCD

For grounding, a PE bus is used, which is connected to a grounding device. It is installed in the ground near the wall of a residential building. Externally, such equipment consists of several metal sticks with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm and a length of up to 3 m, they are connected by a common metal strip.

To connect the grounding device and the bus, a single-core wire of the same cross-section as the input cable is suitable. After the installation is completed, the resistance of the grounding device is measured. In single-phase networks it should be equal to 8, three-phase - 4 Ohms.

Installation errors

The occurrence of fires in wooden houses is often associated with violations of safety rules during the installation or operation of electrical wiring.

We list the main mistakes that are made in both cases:

  1. Installation of hidden wiring under the ceiling. Often the electrical wire is placed in interfloor ceilings, forgetting about additional isolation measures. In this case, the cable ends up in close proximity to wooden surfaces. In case of incorrectly selected section cable line will begin to overheat, which will gradually lead to a fire.
  2. Cable laying under the baseboard. There is little space underneath, which is not enough to create a “safe air barrier.” Because of this, the wire is constantly in contact with the wooden or plastic baseboard, which leads to overheating and fire. Gaps in the plinth should be at least 10-15 mm.

  1. The use of corrugated polyvinyl chloride pipes is strictly unacceptable when installing electrical wiring in wooden houses. Replace the products with standard metal or corrugated cable ducts.
  2. Cable placement in a groove without insulation. When choosing hidden method For gaskets, it is permissible to use prepared recesses - grooves. However, even in this case, it is not a bare cable that needs to be placed in the groove, but a metal corrugation or a steel tube.
  3. Installation boxes for sockets and switches must be made of metal. The use of plastic structures is unacceptable.

Fire protection measures

To ensure a high level of fire protection, a number of key factors must be taken into account:

  1. Select and install an RCD with suitable parameters.
  2. Install a modular-pin type grounding circuit and corresponding resistance depending on the number of phases in the network.
  3. Ensure the functionality of the system that equalizes potentials.
  4. Ensure continuity of grounding at each section of the circuit.
  5. Install only overhead sockets.
  6. Realize hidden installation using metal cable channels and pipes.

Following the listed rules, recommendations and standards, you can organize a safe electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands or make sure of the competence of the called specialists. And this is very important, since the risk of fire in these residential buildings is much higher.

All electrical installation work requires the performer to be careful, pay special attention, and strictly adhere to technical rules and established standards. When planning and carrying out electrification of a wooden house, it is necessary to obtain advice from a qualified electrician and become familiar with regulatory documents, the basic requirements and sequence of laying the electrical wire.

Requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

Installation of electrical wiring in wooden houses has some differences and features from electrification stone houses. Safety must be a priority when designing and installing cables. There are a number of basic rules that require strict adherence:

  1. Careful insulation of electrical conductors using non-combustible materials (NYM, VVGng, VVGng-LS).
  2. Aluminum conductors must be replaced with copper conductors with a cross-section of at least 16 mm2. The cable must enter the house through a metal sleeve. The transition of the wire from one room to another is carried out through a rigid metal pipe.
  3. It is advisable to carry out electrification of a wooden house using the “open” method.
  4. It is necessary to accurately calculate the cable thickness, leaving a margin of at least 30%.
  5. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the materials used. You need to choose a cable with non-flammable insulation.
  6. If it is necessary to install hidden electrical wiring, it is necessary to use a metal pipe. Laying cables in corrugated pipes is prohibited.
  7. Installation of an RCD, ground loop and lightning rod is required. In this case, not only electrical appliances are subject to grounding, but also metal pipes in which the cable is laid.
  8. The input unit - electrical panel should be isolated as much as possible from the wooden structures of the house. Sometimes you have to build brick wall, and the floors should be made of cement/concrete screed.

Electrical wiring options in a wooden house

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house, namely cable routing, can be done in three ways:


Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house: diagrams

According to current standards, when electrifying a private house without installing a transformer, the power consumption cannot be more than 15 kW. This indicator is calculated by summing the power of simultaneously switched on electrical appliances. If the result obtained is less than 15 kW, then install a 25A input circuit breaker, otherwise an additional transformer will be required.

When developing a wiring diagram, connection points are divided into different consumption groups. For example, lighting devices are powered from one machine, a separate device is required for sockets, and an additional device is required for street lighting.

It is advisable to equip personal automatic machines and a separate power supply branch for powerful electrical equipment: an electric stove, a boiler or an electric boiler. Individual machines Detached outbuildings also require power supply.

Important! For safety reasons, it is better to increase the number of power supply branches - this measure helps to reduce potentially dangerous connection sections.

Below is an approximate do-it-yourself electrical wiring diagram in a private wooden house.

Some nuances when developing a scheme:

  1. The input machine and meter of the energy supply organization require to be placed outside for easy control of electricity consumption.
  2. For outdoor placement, the meter and circuit breaker must be in a sealed housing that prevents the ingress of moisture, dirt and dust. The box's protection class is at least IP-55. The requirements for boxes installed inside a wooden structure are slightly lower - IP-44, the main condition is that the body is made of metal.
  3. For an emergency power outage, it is necessary to place an RCD - the device will operate in the event of a short circuit in the network.

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house: step-by-step instructions

Development of a power supply project

To develop an individual project from an electricity supply organization (RES), you must obtain technical specifications, which will become the basis for further work.

Designing the power supply of a wooden house is carried out in the following sequence:


When organizing power supply and drawing up a project, you should be guided not only by personal wishes, but also by certain requirements:

  1. Only vertical or horizontal arrangement of wires is allowed.
  2. All turns of the wire are performed strictly at right angles.
  3. Sockets, switches and distribution boxes must be freely accessible.
  4. According to the rules, the installation of switches is carried out at a distance of 0.6-1.5 meters from the floor level, the cable is fed from above.
  5. The optimal placement of sockets is 0.5-0.8 m from the floor, the recommended number of sockets is 1 pc. for 6 sq.m. In rooms with a lot of household appliances There will be more sockets.
  6. Wires should not be placed closer than 10 cm from door/window openings. It is necessary to exclude contact of wires with metal elements and adjacent wires (minimum permissible distance - 0.5 cm).

Selection of equipment and cables

To avoid complex calculations to determine suitable cable, you can use the electrical engineering reference book. The cross-section of the wire core directly depends on the expected loads.

The power consumption of equipment and electrical appliances is indicated in the technical data sheet or operating instructions. Based on these values, a wire with cores is selected the required section. To determine the size of the input cable, it is necessary to sum up the power of the installed electrical appliances.

Advice. For a wooden house, you should choose a cable marked “NG” (non-flammable) and “LS” (low smoke emission). Typically, wires with a cross section of 2.5 mm and 1.5 mm are used for internal wiring.

The input circuit breaker is selected with a rating sufficient to maximum load The power to the house did not turn off, but a circuit break occurred, preventing a short circuit.

For single-phase power supply, the circuit breaker is selected as follows:


When choosing switches and sockets, take into account some parameters:

  • the amount of current for which the equipment is designed;
  • installation option: external/hidden wiring;
  • the number of keys - for switches, the number of places - for sockets.
  1. Household appliances with high power(electric stoves, washing machines, boilers, fireplaces, refrigerators, etc.) are subject to mandatory grounding. In such situations, it is advisable to use sockets with a terminal for connecting the ground wire.
  2. "Tees" should be avoided. To simultaneously connect several electrical appliances, install a group of sockets or dual models.
  3. The choice of switches is determined by the lighting mode. To simultaneously turn on several light sources or one lamp, set the switch to one key; for different modes - two- and three-key switches.

Installation of the machine and input of power supply

According to the developed diagram, distribution boxes are installed, mounting points for switches, sockets and lighting devices are marked. Mount the electrical panel housing in the designated location and perform the following actions:

  1. Installation in the meter panel housing.
  2. Installation of the input circuit breaker on a metal profile (din rail). Connection to a two-pole circuit breaker, phase and neutral.
  3. The terminals (output terminals) of the meter are connected to the input of the input circuit breaker.
  4. Installing a cable into the house and connecting it to the input terminals of the meter.
  5. A voltage relay, RCD, and circuit breakers for various power groups (lighting, sockets) are installed on the DIN rail.

Cable entry into the house is carried out underground or over the air. The second option will be cheaper, but this supply is considered less reliable. With “air” input, self-supporting insulated wires are used. The main condition is the installation of a fireproof sleeve at the input site in the house.

With the underground method, a metal pipe is used for entry, protecting the supply cable from various influences. Cable laying using this method must be agreed upon with the power distribution company.

Cable laying, installation of switches and sockets

The wire of the selected cross-section according to the layout plan is laid in a closed or open way.

Technology internal wiring do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house:


Let's look step by step at how to do electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands using wall-mounted cable ducts:


Important! The number of connections affects the system's ability to carry loads - the more there are, the worse the load capacity.

RCD and grounding

Arranging a grounding loop involves performing the following actions:

  1. Preparation metal rods diameter 3 cm/length 3 m.
  2. Digging a trench 30 cm deep in a triangular shape, where the length of each side is 1 m. Install metal rods at the corners of the formed triangle.
  3. Connecting reinforcement to each other with metal corners using welding.
  4. Weld an eye (loop) to one corner and fasten a steel rod 1 cm thick to it.
  5. The rod is laid so that it is connected to the grounding conductor in the electrical panel. The insulation of the grounding conductors of the cables is yellow-green.

It is advisable to place an RCD in the panel after the metering device. This device will protect a person from electric shock if it leaks onto the equipment body. The RCD parameters are selected based on the rated current in the network. This protective device especially relevant for rooms with high humidity levels (bathroom, bathhouse, swimming pool, etc.).

DIY electrical wiring in a wooden house: video

Common Newbie Mistakes

Electrification of a wooden house is a responsible undertaking. According to statistics from firefighting organizations, most wooden structures catch fire primarily due to faulty electrical wiring. Some novice masters may ignore the advice of professionals and make a number of serious mistakes:

  1. Hiding wiring under wooden ceiling structures.
  2. Laying cables under the baseboard.
  3. Use for laying corrugated wires PVC pipes. Despite the practical qualities of the material and the ease of its installation, PVC pipes are prohibited for use for the electrification of wooden buildings.
  4. The location of the insulated cable in the groove without the use of a metal pipe.
  5. The use of plastic boxes for sockets and switches.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house must not only perform its functions, but also be safe, so increased demands are placed on the quality of its implementation. You can do electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands, but you must follow all installation rules.

The work must be divided into several stages:

  • Drawing up a project and calculating the total capacity of the equipment;
  • Selection of cables, electrical equipment, mounting elements according to the calculated load;
  • Entry into the house and connection of the input circuit breaker, electricity meter, installation of the distribution board;
  • Laying cables, distributing them point by point;
  • Installation of sockets, switches, lighting equipment;
  • Installation of grounding and RCD;
  • Testing and verification.

House power supply project

In order to properly design electrical wiring, it is necessary to establish the total power of the electrical equipment. Sequence of design work:

  1. Draw a house plan and indicate the location of all lighting fixtures, sockets, and equipment with individual connections.
  2. The drawing must indicate the maximum power of the devices, taking into account the starting currents of the electric motors.
  3. Lighting equipment is connected to separate power supply groups; the number of these groups depends on the size of the house and the power of the lighting fixtures. Usually for small house all lamps can be connected to one group.
  4. It is also necessary to provide lighting for the courtyard area, and if the house is used as a summer house for temporary residence, it is more advisable to connect the courtyard lighting to a separate circuit breaker - this way, it will be possible to turn off the power to the house during departure without turning off the external lighting.
  5. Powerful household electrical appliances are connected to a separate power supply group, through a separate circuit breaker. Such devices include water heaters and electric boilers, as well as electric ovens, stoves, convectors - all equipment with high power consumption. For such electrical appliances it is necessary to lay a separate cable.

For each group, it is necessary to calculate the maximum power consumption by summing up all electrical appliances that can be connected to the network at the same time. It is also necessary to calculate the total power of the entire load to select an input circuit breaker.

Selection of cables and equipment

When designing power supply, cable selection is carried out complex calculations, but to do electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands, just use the table. For each power supply group, select a cable cross-section corresponding to the power consumption.

For wiring, copper cable of the VVGng-LS or NYM brand is most often chosen. The first is distinguished by a lower price, and the second by an additional layer of insulation and greater reliability, as well as ease of cutting. Aluminum cable can also be used, but its cross-section increases, in addition, the cores of the aluminum cable are more brittle when bent, therefore, it is less reliable.

To connect sockets, you need a three-core cable with a grounding wire - some household appliances require mandatory protective grounding. For lighting according to the PUE, it is also necessary to use grounding, but in practice this rule is often neglected. However, if you plan to install high-power fixtures, such as a floodlight for yard lighting, it is highly recommended that all wiring be done correctly.

Wiring in a wooden house can be done both externally - in a cable channel, and hidden if interior decoration involves wall cladding. Internal wiring must be carried out in pipes or a metal hose, for fire safety purposes and to protect against accidental damage when drilling holes, for example.

The choice of sockets and switches is made according to several parameters:

  • According to the current for which they are designed;
  • By installation type: for hidden or external wiring;
  • Socket blocks are selected according to the number of places, and switches - according to the number of keys. Sometimes it is convenient to connect several switches into one block, for example, switches for a nearby bathroom and toilet.

Input of power supply and input machine

The selection of the input cable is made according to the maximum power of all electrical equipment in the house. This should be noted Special attention when reconstructing electrical wiring. Having changed all the cables and increased the rating of the circuit breakers, we must not forget about the input cable. Its cross-section may be insufficient, and a fire will occur under heavy load. The input cable is changed, as a rule, with the involvement of the energy supplying organization simultaneously with the installation and sealing of the meter.

The input circuit breaker must reserve group circuit breakers and disconnect the house from the power supply in the event of a short circuit, but not operate at the maximum possible load. If the house is powered from a three-phase network, a three-pole circuit breaker is installed. For a single-phase network - single-pole or double-pole, where a phase and a zero are connected.

Selecting the rating and type of circuit breaker for a single-phase network:

  1. It is necessary to calculate the total power of all electrical appliances and calculate the maximum current using the formula I NOM = P / U·cosϕ. The resulting value I NOM is the calculated rated current of the network, it is multiplied by a factor of 1.1 and the rated current of the circuit breaker release is obtained. As a rule, circuit breakers with a rating of no more than 25 A are installed at the entrance to the house.
  2. To select the type of machine, you need to know the minimum short-circuit current. For a single-phase network ~220V, the short circuit current can be calculated using the simplified formula I short circuit = 3260 S/L, where S is the wire cross-section in mm 2, L is the cable length, m. In this case, the calculation is carried out for the longest group with minimum cross-section cable.
  3. Next, you need to determine the multiple of the short-circuit current to the rated current, that is, calculate I SC / I NOM. The resulting value determines the characteristics of the switch. In private homes, circuit breakers with characteristic C are most often used.

An automatic input switch is usually installed after the meter. It is possible to install it up to the meter, but in this case it must be sealed.

Automatic switches of power supply groups, an electricity meter, as well as an input circuit breaker and an RCD are installed in the distribution panel. The body of the metal shield must be grounded. The equipment is installed on a DIN rail, after which it is wired in accordance with the diagram.

Laying cables, installing sockets and switches

Before laying the cable, it is necessary to determine the route, install distribution boxes and mark the installation locations of sockets, switches and lighting fixtures. The cable of the selected cross-section is laid in accordance with the installation plan using one of the methods indicated below.

Laying the cable in a metal hose or pipe performed if full plating is planned interior walls, otherwise the wiring will look unaesthetic. It is impossible to use plastic corrugated pipe for hidden wiring, since there is a possibility of accidental damage to it, which can lead to a fire inside the ceilings, which is very difficult to quickly eliminate.

Cable laying technology in a pipe:


External cable routing performed in a cable channel made of self-extinguishing plastic. The cable channel comes in various sizes and is a box closed with a lid with a latch. The color of the cable channel can be either white or imitating a wooden texture, so it looks quite aesthetically pleasing on log walls.

Technology for laying cables in a cable channel:


Grounding and RCD

Necessary for the operating conditions of most household appliances if their housing is made of metal. In a private house, grounding can be done independently.

For grounding, you will need three metal pins or corners 3 meters long, as well as cutting corners about a meter long, which need to be used to connect the pins. The grounding technology is as follows: dig a trench in the shape of an equilateral triangle with a side of 1 meter and a depth of at least 30 cm, drive three-meter pins or corners into the ground at the corners of the trench, and connect them together in short sections using welding. A hole is made in one of the corners, and a grounding conductor is attached using a bolt and nut, which is brought out into the distribution panel and connected to the grounding bus. All grounding conductors of the cables are connected to the same bus - they have yellow-green insulation.

RCD - residual current device - is necessary to protect a person from electric shock in the event of current leakage onto a metal housing household appliances or if the insulation is damaged. The RCD reacts to current mismatches, detecting even the smallest leak. The RCD has two parameters by which it is selected: rated current and leakage current.

The rated current of the RCD is selected an order of magnitude higher than the current of the circuit breaker in this circuit. Leakage current - depending on the type of room and connected equipment. So, for a bathroom you need an RCD with a leakage current of 10 mA, and for other rooms a value of this parameter of 30 mA is sufficient. The RCD connection diagram is shown in the figure.

Electrical wiring tests

After installation, it is necessary to call electrical laboratory specialists so that they carry out the entire necessary set of measurements: insulation resistance, resistance of the grounding conductor and phase-zero loops, load the machines and check the RCD. After the tests, you will be given a protocol that will allow you to confirm the correct execution of the electrical installation work before the energy supplying organization - the protocol may be needed when sealing the electricity meter.

It is recommended to paste the wiring diagram with all amendments and comments on the inner surface of the wall of the switchboard - this will provide clarity in case of electrical wiring faults. The diagram must indicate which circuit breaker powers each group and what is connected to it.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house, carried out taking into account all recommendations, is completely safe and will last for a long time.

Wood is considered environmentally friendly pure material for the construction of residential buildings, so it is not surprising that the demand for beautiful and comfortable houses made of timber or rounded logs is not decreasing. First of all, a residential building must be safe from an electrical installation point of view.

It is important to understand how to install electrical wiring in a wooden house so as not to harm the health of residents and ensure the safety of property. In the article we have presented in detail all aspects of this issue.

The presented materials are presented General requirements on wiring, methods for installing an electrical network in a house, rules for arranging an electrical panel and methods for installing cables. All electrical installation work must be carried out in strict accordance with fire safety standards, which we indicated in the article.

The main difference between wooden houses and reinforced concrete and brick structures is their high degree of fire hazard. This means that increased requirements apply to the selection of electrical devices, cables and the conditions for their installation.

According to statistics, about 1/2 of the cases of fires or fires in wooden houses or in houses with wood trim occurs due to gross errors by electricians.

If you install the socket incorrectly, do not connect the wires in the junction box carefully enough, or ignore the grounding rules, a fire may occur, followed by a fire.

Undemanding owners of a wooden house entrust electrical installation work to neighbors, acquaintances, or do it themselves, without thoroughly knowing the PUE standards. The sad result of gullibility and unprofessionalism - in the photo

It is necessary to know the basic rules of electrical installation for two reasons: to be able to independently carry out some of the installation or repair work and to control the actions of unscrupulous “specialists”.

The following requirements should be remembered:

  • The technical characteristics of cables and electrical equipment must correspond as closely as possible to the power consumption of the devices of each individual group.
  • The operation of sockets, switches, and emergency shutdown devices must be carried out taking into account the load placed on them.
  • It is prohibited to use cables, wires, and terminal connections when they are regularly heated.
  • It is necessary to completely prevent the transfer of fire from the cable to structures made of wood or other flammable materials using fireproof protection.

Electrical wiring must be completely safe for home owners, their families (especially small children) and pets.

Strict requirements come to the fore, and sometimes aesthetics have to be sacrificed. For example, owners of a wooden cottage need to come to terms with external sockets and enhanced protection for both hidden and open electrical wiring (NPB 246-97)

Material from video reviews and instructions posted on the Internet is very contradictory, so you should not rely entirely on the opinion of people in work overalls. You should focus on excerpts from regulatory documentation - sections of PUE, SNiPs, GOSTs.

Entering the power line into the house

In Russia and some other countries (unlike, for example, Europe, where the wires are hidden in the ground), electricity reaches consumers through overhead power lines - to the final support.

  • via self-supporting insulated wire (SIP);
  • underground;
  • by cable (used extremely rarely).

The first option is the most popular.

Electricity metering devices are also installed along with the machine. Special shields (SHUE) are designed specifically for this. According to the rules, the control panel can be installed inside the building, then the wiring diagram will change slightly.

From central highway power supply, a self-supporting insulated wire (with a cross-section of at least 16 mm) is pulled to a support on a private property or directly to the house, which is secured with anchors or clamps. Height from the ground to the tensioned wire 2.75 m or more

To insulate wires running along a wooden surface, use fireproof boxes or. The transition through walls and ceilings is carried out in protective sleeves made of metal; plastic analogues are unacceptable.

SIPs are not installed inside the house. According to the standards, only copper wires can be laid inside and on top of combustible structures, therefore, aluminum analogues will also have to be excluded.

Rules for open wiring

Methods for open laying of wires should not contradict the requirements of the PUE.

Therefore, the following products can be used to attach cables to the wooden surface of walls, partitions or ceilings:

  • ceramic or porcelain insulators;
  • floor plinths with built-in cable duct;
  • corrugated and rigid PVC pipes;
  • PVC boxes;
  • metal boxes and pipes.

Specific names of products are indicated in project documentation, and in relation to wooden structures they must be accompanied by a fire safety certificate and be marked with the “NG” marking as non-flammable.

The installation of cable channels and other installation elements must be thought out in advance, since protruding parts may interfere with the arrangement of furniture or solving other interior issues

Closed wiring methods

The main difference between hidden wiring is the limitation on the use of installation methods. According to the PUE standards, it is strictly forbidden to use metal sleeves for hidden wiring, plastic boxes and PVC corrugation. All products must have localization ability.

There are several reasons for this:

  • PVC products do not protect wires from rodents;
  • even the slightest damage to the insulation during installation work in the future, with increasing load, can provoke burnout of the plastic and ignition;
  • The metal hose is a spiral-shaped product that does not have localization characteristics, which means that even wood dust can easily penetrate inside the protection.

Fire and electrical safety rules state that only two types of products can be used for hidden wiring - a metal pipe and a box made of a similar material, specifically designed for these purposes.

WITH inside metal elements must be galvanized or painted so that they do not become corroded during operation.

For a strong connection, a socket or similar method is not enough, so soldering, electric welding, coupling and threaded connections are used.

Hidden wiring option metal pipes ah - in the future the ceiling will be closed suspended structure. This solution is suitable for laying cables in wooden floors, inside walls and partitions

The use of metal hoses, corrugations and boxes made of PVC is also permissible, but subject to the installation of a lining made of non-combustible material: concrete, alabaster, plaster.

The main stages of laying closed electrical wiring:

  1. Route markings. It is necessary to calculate the stretch of lines so that the number of turns and intersections is minimal.
  2. Preparation of walls and ceilings. It includes hollowing out grooves and drilling holes.
  3. Laying metal pipes. The size of the product is selected so that the cable occupies no more than half of the internal space.
  4. Installation metal boxes for switches and sockets. Copper pipes are attached to the boxes with flaring, steel pipes with nuts.
  5. Installation of junction boxes. Ideally, they should be connected to the pipes by welding or soldering to ensure 100% grounding.
  6. Electrical measurements. All metal elements of the installations must be connected to the PE bus (all lines, without exception, must have a grounding conductor).
  7. Pulling cables into pipes. To place wires inside metal pipes, special pulling cables are used.
  8. Installation of sockets and switches. When cutting the cable, it is necessary to make a small supply of wires in case of repair or replacement of equipment.

After the installation of hidden wiring is completed, it is necessary to contact representatives of the electrical laboratory. Many people forget that a technical report on the condition of the wiring and the quality of installation is a mandatory document.

But the resinous mass of dried wood - dangerous object for the appearance of a random spark: can turn into a tragedy due to technological errors or negligence during installation.

Therefore, installing electrics in a wooden house in a hidden way can only be undertaken with basic technical training and having thoroughly studied the rather stringent current regulatory documents:

  • GOST R 50572.1-93;
  • SNiP 3/01/01-85;
  • SNiP III-4-80;
  • SNiP 2.08.01(6.17).
  • “Rules for the construction of electrical installations” (PUE).

Isn’t it better to entrust this important stage of construction professionals?

Why is hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house so attractive?

Surely aesthetics of walls and ceilings:

  • there are no wiring elements that violate the design of the room;
  • sockets and switches recessed into the wall do not cause inconvenience when arranging furniture;
  • the wall surface is easier to use for wallpapering;
  • correctly executed wiring increases the fire safety level of the building;
  • ease of replacing the cable in the pipe;
  • less risk of mechanical damage to wiring;
  • protruding electrical fittings do not collect dust and do not become a support for cobwebs.

What makes hidden electrical wiring an object of increased danger?

  • Inaccessibility for constant inspection of the insulation condition and replacement of areas that have undergone aging and destruction (microdamage can cause a short circuit);
  • complications in the work of adding new points to the electrical circuit after time has passed;
  • technical complexity of installation, effective only during the construction of the house;
  • the need to create false structures that can hide insulating pipes;
  • high cost of work and materials;
  • costs for special tools.

What are the features of installing hidden wiring in a wooden house?

  1. You must be prepared for the fact that according to the wiring diagram you will pull not only wires and cables, but also meters of steel or copper pipes - required condition isolation. In a wooden house, not even a centimeter of wire should come into contact with the wood. Pulling a cable or wire through a tube is a troublesome task that requires patience.
  2. To install insulating pipes into the body of the wall, you will have to tap, drill, and cut out a place for wiring. This work is dusty, dirty, labor-intensive.
  3. Vertical channels are drilled while laying the crowns of the log house, horizontal ones (with a special drill) - after completion of the construction of the walls.
  4. A conductor is placed in the holes - a wire with which the cable will be pulled.
  5. All installation sites for wiring elements and transitions from one room to another must be well insulated with metal boxes, sleeves, “glasses”, linings, asbestos wrapping or insulation with alabaster plaster.
  6. The number of main channels becomes significant: for a large number, a corrugated pipe will be required as insulation large diameter, which is difficult to hide in a log wall.
  7. The importance of the residual current device (RCD) is increasing; several such devices can be installed in hidden wiring: to disconnect the external circuit, the internal circuit and the circuit with the highest power load.

Rules for performing internal wiring in a wooden house

  1. Electrical wiring is carried out only on the basis of a diagram agreed upon with specialists, with a minimum number of turns and bends.
  2. The electric main is laid exclusively in non-combustible materials.
  3. During installation, priority is given to fire safety objectives, and aesthetic wishes are not so important.
  4. It is advisable to lay channels in the structural recesses of door and window openings, under baseboards, and overhead ceiling cladding.
  5. Corrugated pipes used as channel insulation are protected on all sides with asbestos gaskets during installation. For the same purposes, taking into account the estimated power of the wiring, alabaster or cement plaster and concreting are used.
  6. Galvanized insulating pipes and ducts are connected using threads and welding. Sharp edges are protected with plastic plugs. Copper protective elements in the connection are flared.
  7. The thickness of the pipe walls is selected taking into account the cross-section of the wire cores (example: 2.8 mm for an aluminum core of 10 mm2, or a copper wire of 4 mm2).
  8. Cable (together with insulating layer) inside insulating pipe should occupy up to 40% of the internal volume.
  9. The insulation resistance is measured twice: before pulling through the pipe and after.
  10. Distribution boxes must remain freely accessible.
  11. For hidden wiring, wires and cables with triple insulation coating and marking “ng” are used.

Wiring in the ceiling of a wooden house

The advantages of wooden floors include:

  • high load-bearing capacity;
  • vibration resistance;
  • maintaining the geometry of the structure;
  • reducing the overall weight of the structure;
  • construction speed;
  • versatility of use;
  • Suitable for floor screeds.

Flaw there will be one, and it will be revealed during the fire:

  • wooden floors quickly catch open fire;
  • have a tendency to collapse.

What should I do?

  1. Cable protection with pipes.
  2. Therefore, there are no concessions for electrical distribution across floors: only the placement of cables in pipes. By the way, electrical distribution over floors is the most convenient way hidden wiring devices. In this case, the grooves for pipes to switches and sockets are descended from the main cables.

  3. Metal tray for complex floor layouts.
  4. True, if the change in direction of the wires is very frequent and at different angles, then it is more rational to use blank copper trays with covers instead of pipes. You can lay out several wires in them at once and in any direction. They perfectly isolate the wiring from the wood of the floors and are attached to each other using rivets. In order to reduce the cost of work, such trays are also made of galvanized steel.

    The process of laying trays is complicated by the need to take into account and bypass structural elements at home or trim them and then strengthen them. In this case, you cannot do without skills in performing tin work.

    It will be necessary to ground each tray separately. When turning, the trays can form an angle that is dangerous for the integrity of the cable, so corrugated insulation is placed on it in this place.

    Tray insulation for hidden wiring can also be used on the inside of the ceiling, subsequently covering the entire structure of the false ceiling with plasterboard or tongue-and-groove boards treated with fire retardants.

  5. Taking risks is not always a noble cause.
  6. The most primitive installation method is electrical wiring on the floors in layers of alabaster or cement plaster, when one layer is laid down, and after applying the wires, 2-3 cm of a new layer are added. This method is very risky for fire safety (due to the likelihood of cracking) and is rarely used.

  1. The type of cable for a wooden house will be different from that used in urban areas.
  2. The NYM cable is most suitable; it has triple insulation and a sheath made of non-flammable material (polyvinyl chloride).
  3. The greatest reliability in protecting the electrical network from emergency failures are provided by difavtomats, which combine 2 protective devices - automatic switch and RCD (residual current device).
  4. It is worth remembering: grounding each distribution box and each pipe will not be superfluous.
  5. The pipe connection must be reliable: use welding or soldering.
  6. When choosing pipes, give preference to copper pipes: they bend better and easily take the shape of the prepared gutter.
  7. To protect the cable from damage when pulling, you must use plastic end sleeves.
  8. The shrinkage of the house should be taken into account to prevent pinching of the main.
  9. When covering walls with clapboard or wooden wallpaper, you can do without drilling the walls by passing the main distribution pipes along the hollowed out grooves.
  10. You can combine hidden wiring with open wiring: in places where wires are connected to sockets or switches.

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