We are often asked: what bone carving drills do we use and which one is better to buy, What should you pay attention to? Therefore we decided to write short review, it is based solely on our personal experience, accumulated over long years work. It should be noted right away that there is no universal drill for carving. Wide choose various models The drills on the market are often confused by beginners. Each drill has its own characteristics and is intended for specific purposes.
Which drill should you choose?
Choose a drill suitable for carving bone or wood, among the many offerings on the market, is actually not that difficult. Drills vary in engine power, speed (rpm) and torque.
Very often, when choosing, they pay attention to the number of revolutions, but in practice the number is 30,000 rpm. is superfluous and is used in carvings extremely rarely. For example, to work with a large cutter, 10,000 rpm is quite enough, but to work with small burs, sometimes more than 20,000 rpm is required. One drill capable of simultaneously withstanding the high loads of a large cutter and capable of operating at high speeds long time, unfortunately does not exist. Therefore, the most important and only the right choice will purchase at least two drills with different characteristics.
The optimal solution for carving wood or bone would be to purchase the following drills:
- Powerful drill with reinforced tip.
- Compact micromotor capable of operating at high speeds.
Technical drills
For the initial stage, you need a powerful technical drill capable of clamping a cutter with a shank with a diameter of 6 mm. Those who like to save money and tinker can avoid some costs by doing this, for this you can take, for example, a motor from washing machine or another powerful motor and, using a belt drive, connect it to the sleeve from the drill, in this case you will have to do a fair amount of magic, but you will still have to buy the sleeve and the tip. This is one of the cheapest options; at first we used it. Of the minuses, it can be noted that sleeves adapted for belt drive are now quite difficult to find and they are quite unreliable, because They were originally intended for dental purposes and now such samples are no longer used.
There are quite powerful sleeveless drills "Profile" with a pedal, created by Russian engineers, very reliable, practically “indestructible”, allowing you to perform a wide range of technical operations, such as drilling, grinding and much more, this drill has a three-jaw chuck, which is very convenient for these purposes. However, having tested it, it should be noted that it has low speeds, with a fairly high torque, and for threading, a three-jaw chuck is less suitable than a durable collet clamp.
Another example of domestic production, but with a sleeve, also a fairly powerful drill, but low-speed.
We have been using a drill for many years Foredom SR series, produced in the USA, it can be noted that it is reliable in operation and fails extremely rarely under high loads. All spare parts can always be easily purchased in stores that sell tools for jewelers, such as Sapphire or Ruta in Moscow. There is also a large selection of tips, from power collet tips to convenient quick-release ones.
This drill has an optimal power of 125 W. It’s quite enough for rough cutting of a mammoth ivory workpiece and the speed is quite decent 18,000 rpm. However, it is not entirely convenient for working out small details, even when using special tips, of which there are quite a few available. The range for this drill is quite large, but this is only our subjective opinion. First of all, the presence of a flexible shaft. At long work it puts extra stress on the hand, and at 18,000 rpm. It starts to work very noisily, which creates a lot of strain on the ears and reduces comfort at work. There is also a Chinese analogue, which costs much less, about 5,000 rubles, but is assembled quite decently, the drill was tested by us and our colleagues, and had no particular complaints. It is less powerful, but as it turned out, this power is quite enough for normal operation. This drill is marked SS. It should be noted that the original and Chinese drills have some differences, for example, the handpiece from one will not fit the other drill.
Micromotors
Micromotors or mini drills are more compact and do not have a flexible shaft, unlike powerful drills. Their motor is mounted directly behind the tip. They happen the same way Russian made and foreign. These drills are designed for finer work with workpieces and are more convenient.
There is a drill made in Russia DPM 25-2 with medical tip. It fits very comfortably in the hand, you can quickly change burs and is affordable. However, the medical tip cannot withstand heavy loads and with constant use can quickly fail. And also, the micromotor itself cannot be repaired, since the carbon brushes wear out over time, and it is not yet possible to replace them. Having exhausted its resource, you will have to change the engine itself or the entire drill. Otherwise, it’s not a bad, budget and convenient option.
There is also a Korean version, this drill is very attractive for its functionality and reliability, but on the Russian market the drill Marathon or Strong It's not cheap, about $200 or more. It is high-speed up to 30,000 rpm. and a power of 65 W, which is very high for a micromotor; we work with these drills.
Do not forget to use a hood and safety glasses when working with a drill, especially when rough processing a workpiece made of bone or wood. You can use a regular vacuum cleaner as a hood; there is also a synchronizer for a vacuum cleaner from the company Proxxon, which will turn the vacuum cleaner on and off simultaneously with the drill, which is very convenient.
So, our review has come to an end; we examined and compared only those drills and micromotors that we use or have previously used ourselves. We hope we were able to answer most current issues problems that worry most beginning carvers when choosing a tool. If you still have questions, ask your questions in the comments, we will try to help you decide on the choice of a drill suitable for your needs. Tell us what carving tool you use, share your experience?
Part 1: Basics of Use
Once upon a time, in a dim corner of the college studio where I took my first jewelry lessons in working with metal, there was a rusty, bent drill, with a vacuum cleaner suspended from it to collect sawdust - and a barely flexible shaft with a toothed tip. We used this shaft to drill tiny holes into something.
The occasional attempt by the most daring students to do something more sophisticated usually ended badly. However, I was fascinated by the potential I saw in this tool.
It is often misunderstood and not enough attention is paid to the fact that the drill is one of the most universal tools at the master's studio. It can speed up and improve the manufacturing process of a product, “opening” the door to new possibilities for reworking, sanding and polishing. Using a drill, you can peel and grind stone, glass, metal, wood, and plastic, you can improve the finishing of castings, make wax models, and even use it as a hammer and lathe.
The abundance of many tips and fastening possibilities further expands limitless possibilities this tool. In this series of articles I will show how a drill can be more than just a drill!
Dremel or regular drill?
The names “Kleenex,” “Dremel” are often used as general term. Dremel rotary tools are manufactured by Robert Bosch Tool Corporation, but we tend to associate “Dremel” with any portable rotary tool at a lower price, which contains the motor in the handpiece.
Because of its low cost, many people start with Dremel. But because the vibration motor is held in the hand, Dremel tools can't really perform the finer maneuvers that flex shafts can. Dremel variable speed drills can reach up to 35,000 rpm and are typically controlled via a dial, either on the tool itself or on a separate control unit. Most often these tools use a collet clamping system (usually 1.8 inch/3 mm) to clamp the drill bit, but this limits the range of tip sizes.
There are foot pedals for speed control and even flexible shaft mounts available for sale with Dremel, which do not make it possible to change the handpieces for these drills, and at the same time they simply do not provide the accuracy and versatility that an average-priced drill does.
Which brand should you choose? What model?
As with many tools, the first thing to do is decide what kind of work—and how much of it—you'll want the drill to do. For an amateur jeweler who produces a small number of items, for whom it is a hobby or a part-time job as an artist-engraver, a simple, basic drill with a lightweight engine will be sufficient.
To everyone who needs full power and low-speed control—toolmakers, woodworkers, and carvers—will need larger, higher-output motors.
For a jewelry workshop, woodworking workshop or product designer, you need good quality, general purpose machines that work well across the entire speed range. In the recent past there were many manufacturers flexible shafts, but today their number has narrowed significantly. Here are the leading manufacturers:
A brand that has become synonymous with the tool itself, Foredom is by far the most commonly found in workshops and shops; it's a template, a pattern, if you will, on which other brands are based. Most specialized handpieces and control pedals designed for operation are built around this basic concept.
For many years, the workhorse was the Foredom with an “S” motor that ran at 1/8 hp. Since then the drill has been upgraded to “SR” with a more powerful 1/6 HP. With. motor and a maximum speed of 18000 rpm, which can operate in forward or reverse direction with a switch. This feature is much more convenient than it might seem at first glance.
When the drill gets stuck, gets stuck in the metal, turning the motor back on shows the difference between the motors with normal and reverse motion, in the first case, the broken bur or drill will get stuck so that you have to drill out, and when there is a reverse function, you simply switch and slowly pull out the bur, drill. Reversing can also help avoid the dreaded unnecessary directional dullness on steel and brass wire brushes that results from rotating in one direction.
A right-handed master can direct debris away from the face by installing a reverse switch, and also reduce the “jumping” of the working tip and nozzle from the edge of the product by turning on the reverse motion of the motor.
Any tool that has an indirect action—a tool that cuts, grinds, or polishes by rotating clockwise or counterclockwise (such as abrasive wheels)—can add an advantage to the craftsman's work.
But there are some peculiarities: standard drill bits, burs and cutters are designed only for cutting in a straight direction. They're useless cutting tools in the opposite direction. As much as we'd like to, a tool with a reverse rotation feature won't push metal back into the hole once you've drilled too deep.
And any device mounted on the tip near the shaft screw type, may have typical problem when the right-hand thread of the screw begins to weaken in the opposite direction. Foredom makes a range of screws, with different threads, which are available on their website. However, the reverse function is a good feature and it offers the chance that there may be a new industry standard for drills.
Foredom SR comes with standard 39-inch about 1m rubber outer shell and internal cable. Special 45" - 1.1m and 66" - 1.7m shells, as well as softer, more pliable neoprene shells available.
The basic Foredom SR drill comes with an electronic foot pedal and an adjustable handpiece.
OttoFlex
This machine was made in Buffalo by a dental manufacturing company and sold to the Otto Frey Company. Other supplier companies once sold this machine under their own names, and you can find machines with the Buffalo Dental label from dental industry suppliers, but Otto Frey remains the best option acquisitions.
This drill has a 5 HP motor. With. with a maximum speed of 20,000 rpm. The OttoFlex engine body is covered in shiny chrome - it makes absolutely no difference, but wait a minute - chrome! This drill is a reliable comrade and works with most conventional foot pedals and handpieces.
The big difference between this and other brands is the neoprene shell, which is softer and more flexible. The advantages of flexibility are obvious, the only drawback of the neoprene shell is that if it gets a little loose or weakened, the more flexible shell can bring a surprise - the motor will rotate, but the tip will not. No real danger, of course, but be prepared for surprises!
Soft, aftermarket neoprene sheaths are available for other brands, but sheaths and drills are not necessarily or always interchangeable. If you need replacement parts, make sure on shore that they match the specific model and manufacturer of your drill.
Grobet and Prodigy
Drills from Grobet and Prodigy are manufactured in China. An economy class drill from Grobet (USA) usually costs less than $100. Basic kit equipped with a 10 HP engine. sec., maximum 18,000 rpm, standard electronic foot pedal housed in a plastic housing, and a #30 stylish tip.
The relatively inexpensive Prodigy has a slightly more powerful 1⁄8-horsepower motor and the same pedal and tip style. Few people sell the Prodigy model, except Rio Grande sells the Prodigy, one or two online stores do, while Grobet drills are more widely available.
Chinese products may sometimes have a less savory reputation, but things are changing and Chinese goods are improving. Grobet and Prodigy offer an economical alternative for those who are just getting into the creative field, need a backup unit, or will use the instrument relatively infrequently.
Other Brands
Dumore, Pfingst, Pro-Craft, and Vigor, along with the discontinued Foredom model, once represented a wide range and flooded the market. Why am I talking about machines that are no longer made or are not widely available? Because they can still be found on the secondary market. Avito, eBay, yard sales, and even newspaper advertisements sometimes list these cars for sale. And while Foredom doesn't stock the CC and S models, you can still find them new, in packaging from small suppliers, if you dig deeper online.
Summary of the first part:
Discouraged? I'll simplify everything. If you plan to work long hours and often at a bench, or you plan to work in metalworking or related fields, buy the Foredom SR or OttoFlex (BuffaloDental). Choice of 1⁄6-1⁄5 l. s., which these machines produce a lot, but at least 1⁄8 liters. With. If cutting operations will be performed. They cost just under $200.
If your budget is limited, buy only the machine (motor, shaft, tip and pedal). If you can find it for $20 more, then get the basic advanced kit, which includes a good choice hogs, bits and accessories; they provide broad access to job opportunities. But at the same time, avoid more massive kits - they simply have too many different shortcomings, shortcomings and unnecessary functions. If you are a hobbyist or beginner, then a Grobet or Prodigy, shaft, tip and pedal is the way to go.
When you compare prices, make sure you are looking for comparable kits or systems. The Foredom SR drill may seem inexpensive until you realize that the price only includes the motor and shaft!
Finally
Like any tool, a drill is the perfect complement to your capabilities. It is important to remember that the operator of any tool is the key in this system. Maximizing the capabilities offered by this amazing tool is a function of control and control that you will only gain by mastering the tool through practice. It takes time, but it's the same good way spend time and acquire a skill.
How does a drill work?
1. Motor, depending on the model, rotates at a maximum speed of 14,000-20,000 rpm. Some specialized drills only reach 5000 rpm. Motor power ranges from 1/10 to 1/4 horsepower, which is typically found in drills designed for woodworkers or manufacturers that need more torque to cut or move material. Most models have built-in hangers (hooks are not provided); some models will be obsessed with the workbench.
2. Rubber or neoprene outer shell and a steel or brass inner cable assembly transfers the rotational force of the motor to the handpiece. It's the "flex shaft" that gives the machine its name, and it's usually about 3 feet (91.4 cm) long. The internal cable is the part that breaks most often, but it's easy to replace.
3. Tip- of which there is a large selection on the market and accessories for them. There are tips various styles and configurations. Many, if not most, are interchangeable. The #30 tip is the most popular and is the default for most flex shaft models. These tips have an adjustable chuck that is loosened and tightened using a chuck wrench.
4. Pedal- the mechanic uses a speed control - most often a pedal - to change the speed of the machine to suit his task. There are several options available, as well as a speed control device on the drill unit itself installed on the workbench.
With such technical device, like a drill, is familiar to everyone who at least once in their life has found themselves in a dentist’s chair. Meanwhile, the dental office is not the only place where a pneumatic or electric drill is actively used as the main working equipment. Using such devices equipped with attachments various types, professional specialists and home craftsmen perform the finest processing of parts from different materials, produce decorative products, and also successfully solve a whole list of other problems.
Areas of use
A drill, the main working part of which is a rotating high frequency a shaft with a spindle function that transmits rotation to the tool is today actively used by both professionals and home craftsmen, who also appreciate the versatility and efficiency of such a device. In addition to the already mentioned dentistry, where pneumatic drills are mainly used, such devices are necessary for:
- instrument making, where drills are used as mini-drills and compact polishing devices;
- manufacturing products for decorative and applied purposes (carving wood, stone and bone, applying inscriptions and patterns to the surface of products made from various materials (engraving));
- jewelry making, where using similar equipment they create beautiful jewelry from various materials.
In order to turn a drill, which is essentially a driving device, into a multifunctional equipment, it is equipped with special working attachments. Each of them is designed to solve specific technological problems. Thus, the most popular types of working attachments used in conjunction with drills are:
- drills that turn the drill into a mini drill;
- cutters, with the help of which a drill is used to process both flat and shaped surfaces, as well as holes of various configurations;
- mini-disk tool designed for cutting the material being processed;
- an engraving tool used to apply inscriptions and patterns to the surface of the workpiece;
- tools that are used to clean the surface being treated from traces of corrosion and various contaminants, as well as grind and polish it.
Modern models of drills differ from conventional dental devices not only in that they are electric rather than pneumatic, but also in the presence of additional options (in particular, the ability to adjust the spindle speed). The most reputable manufacturers of such devices are Dremel, Omax, Proxxon and PowerMax.
If we talk about the degree of autonomy of electric drills (engravers), then depending on this parameter, such devices are divided into the following types:
- stationary equipment;
- manual engraving devices;
- compact cordless drills;
- models operating from a central power supply network.
Design Features
When deciding how to choose a drill or how to make it yourself (which is quite possible), you should understand the design and operating principles of this equipment. The main elements of any drill are:
- a tip on which working attachments are installed;
- electric motor, which can be brushed or brushless;
- a device that provides power to the drill motor.
It is clear that the drill is pneumatic, powered by energy compressed air, does not have an electric motor in its design. If a brushless type electric motor is installed on the drill, it additionally contains a special control unit that ensures the creation of an alternating magnetic field between the stator and rotor of the drive motor. A commutator drill, unlike a brushless one, can be connected to a source direct current directly.
When comparing commutator and brushless type drills, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- Collector drills are easier to manufacture and, accordingly, cheaper. To ensure their operation, no expensive control unit is required.
- Brushless drills are more powerful and are capable of providing a rotation speed of the tool used in the range of 50–60 thousand rpm, while collector ones develop a speed not exceeding 45 thousand rpm.
- The presence in the design of commutator devices of an intensively rubbing unit (brushes and commutator surface) leads to their significant heating during operation, which requires ensuring effective ventilation of the electric motor of the drill.
- The presence of a rubbing unit in the design is also the reason for a significant loss of power in collector-type drills. Because of this, the efficiency of collector devices is only 60–70%, while for brushless devices this parameter is at the level of 90%.
- To increase the power and torque generated by brushed electric motors, it is necessary to increase the size of the device.
- The brush-commutator assembly itself is the reason for the large size of commutator devices when compared with brushless ones.
- Collector drills are also characterized by more high level noise during operation.
- The service life of commutator drills is slightly shorter than that of brushless ones.
In general, to summarize all of the above, we can say that in terms of the ratio of the most significant parameters, collector drills are the most preferable option in most cases, which is confirmed by the high popularity of the devices. of this type. Brushless drills are more expensive and difficult to operate and maintain when you often have to process very hard materials.
How to choose the right drill
Regardless of what you are purchasing the device for - for small work in the home workshop or for professional use, – it is very important to choose this mini-equipment correctly. Parameters of such a device that you should pay attention to Special attention, are:
- rotation speed that the drill spindle is capable of developing;
- device power;
- force, or torque created by the drill.
A set with two drills: a full-fledged mains one for basic work and a miniature low-voltage one for “small things”
Many of those who purchase a drill to perform simple work in the home workshop opt for high-speed models, which is not entirely correct. For most of such work (and for solving most professional problems associated with drills), models capable of spindle rotation speeds of up to 35–40 thousand rpm are quite suitable. In particular, the tool used to process ceramics must rotate at this speed, and for work on more soft wood More modest parameters are sufficient. It should also be borne in mind that a drill capable of operating at very high speeds is significantly more expensive than its slower-speed counterparts. Therefore, you need to think carefully about whether you will need options on an expensive device that you will use very rarely or not at all.
A more important practically important characteristic of any drill is the torque that such a device is capable of developing.
There is a direct relationship between torque and power of the drill, so special attention should be paid to this parameter. The lowest power of those presented on modern market models have compact drills, which are often called micromotors. Such mini-devices, the working attachment of which is combined in one housing with a drive electric motor, cope quite well with the finishing of products made of various materials. Working attachments for this equipment (both straight and angular) are small-diameter drills, mini-mills, grinding and polishing heads. It should be borne in mind that micromotors, like pneumatic engraving tools, are not intended for use in conjunction with massive working attachments and for performing rough work.
Technical drills have higher torque and, accordingly, power. Such devices, the straight or angular working nozzle of which is driven by flexible shaft, are equipped with a powerful electric motor that can successfully cope even with fairly high loads. The working attachments themselves, which are equipped with such drills, also have a reinforced design, which allows them to be used in conjunction with large and heavy tools and with their help to perform rough processing of products made from various materials.
Technical drills, which have high power and operate primarily at medium speeds, are not very suitable for performing fine work. This is also explained as follows. Working attachment(straight or angular), installed on such equipment, is driven by a flexible shaft, which puts a lot of stress on the hand, and this can cause defects in the process of performing delicate work.
We offer you to consider several popular models of drills intended for hobbies and light repair work. In the article we will compare operational and specifications network and battery devices. They are produced by well-known companies, but belong to different price categories.
Most hand-made projects cannot be imagined without the use of electrical assistants. For a number of reasons, construction units are not always suitable for handicrafts, which is why some companies produce special products- “universal microtool”.
These small hand-held devices called differently: engraver, drill, mini-drill, straight grinder, dremel. This is because such a tool is multifunctional; it embodies the features of several devices. Essentially, this is a universal drive that can be equipped with a large number of working attachments and perform a variety of operations. machining, such as:
- cutting;
- drilling;
- milling;
- grinding;
- stripping;
- polishing;
- sharpening
It is not for nothing that, for example, the Bosch product is defined by its developers as a multifunctional “rotary tool”. For home handyman The ability to work with one hand and process ultra-precisely, including miniature parts and workpieces, is valuable. Very useful qualities household engravers are considered: high speed of movement of the equipment, absence of vibration, low level noise.
Similar tools are also used in many areas of professional activity (dental services, jewelry work, car service, different kinds finishing...). But they can be specifically designed and highly specialized, including large mass and dimensions, or, for example, powered by compressed air. We are interested in lightweight (up to a kilogram) compact engravers, which are powered by an available living conditions electrical energy, and which allow you to install many different attachments - disc holders, brushes, felt and cylinder holders, burs, drills, cutters... The selling idea of this multitool is simple - by purchasing just one device, the master completely covers all questions regarding the tool.
Networked drills
Dremel is considered a leader in its field of activity. Hobby drills are the company’s calling card; it is not surprising that this is what people often call all rotary multi-tools (“dremel”). The 4000th model is the flagship of the networked line of drills from this manufacturer and has many traditional and advanced characteristics.
The layout is no different - an elongated straight body-handle, which contains a motor, a spindle with a clamp at the end, and controls. The casing is made of plastic with many pronounced rubberized linings.
At the front of the tool, near the clamp, there is a replaceable rubber casing for finger grip, the user, depending on the type of work, can choose either cylindrical shape, or with three edges. The start and shaft lock switch are located in different buttons, located at hand, but they are difficult to touch accidentally. The speed control wheel is hidden in the rear, where there is also a recessed steel loop for hanging the tool.
The main features of the Dremel 4000 drill lie in its technical solutions. First of all, let's pay attention to the performance of the motor. 175 watts allow you to get quite a decent torque and successfully process hard and viscous materials. Note that this power had almost no effect on the weight of the car, which is only 660 grams, while the weight of less famous competitors of similar power exceeds a kilogram.
This drill is high-speed, it accelerates to 35 thousand rpm, but if this is necessary for specific operation, then the speed can be limited up to 5000 rpm. In this case, the specified parameters will be maintained automatically, regardless of the degree of load. This is called "constant electronics" and is often used in construction tools.
The attachments are fastened using a collet clamp with a maximum working diameter of 3.2 millimeters. The most inexpensive kit includes 45 attachments, a flexible shaft for precise work in hard-to-reach places, an additional handle, all this fits into a soft bag.
There are several wider sets, the most advanced is the Dremel 4000 Platinum Edition with 128 attachments and 6 additional elements(angle attachment, compass, vertical stand holder...), the set is offered in a monumental aluminum box. The retail price of Dremel 4000-1/45 is about 5.5-6 thousand rubles, the “platinum” set costs about one and a half times more.
This drill is manufactured by a well-known German company, which presents many different models on the market, including those for industrial use. FBS 12/E, like other company products, is made of very durable fiberglass reinforced polyamide. The device turned out to be light and compact, its weight is about 450 grams, and the case diameter is about 35 mm. It looks like nothing new, there is a shaft lock, a speed regulator, and a start switch.
At the same time, the network Proxxon FBS 12/E is an unusual device. The main feature of this drill is its low-voltage power supply. It operates on 12 volt DC. As you understand, there are no batteries here, and the current is converted through a step-down transformer. The manufacturer recommends using branded adapters designed to operate with a current of 1 ampere or more. By the way, the transformer is not included in the kit; you will have to purchase it additionally.
What does the 12-volt solution provide? The machine is safe when stored high performance. Such a tool can be used where the workpiece needs to be cooled with liquid, for example, in the production of jewelry - for processing precious stones.
It should be noted that the technical characteristics of Proxxon FBS 12/E are not entirely traditional. First of all, the low maximum speed of 15,000 rpm is striking, which is more than 2 times lower than most 220 V models. But this means that there are no problems with a drop in torque levels. Even this speed can be reduced - as much as 3000 rpm, this is done smoothly, using thyristor control electronics “with feedback”. Another plus: FBS 12/E consumes a very small amount of energy, about 100 W per hour.
To change attachments, a three-jaw keyless chuck is installed on the drill. But it is possible to replace it with Collet clamp to the required diameter of the tool shanks. There are few attachments in the set (they are packed together with the device in a plastic case), but for additional equipment you can choose from hundreds of items that are in the price lists of this trademark. Proxxon FBS 12/E costs about 2200-2400 thousand rubles.
Cordless drills
Dremel 7700-15 Hobby
The mobile autonomous drill is intended exclusively for creativity, this is clear even from the name. The battery used is simple, made using NiCd technology. Its capacity is 0.7 Ah, and the voltage is 7.2 volts - this is enough for short-term work with most materials, but does not allow the machine to be used as a professional one.
The speed range of the 7700 model is quite limited. You can select only two modes - 10,000 rpm and 20,000 rpm. Although the two-speed version is already outdated, drills are still produced without a speed controller at all.
This model can impress. Its ergonomics. Weight less than 300 grams, length 175 mm - very good indicators.
The tool is intended for those who often work outdoors, do light work and do not need an expensive, powerful device with a large number of attachments and accessories. A Dremel 7700-15 Hobby drill with 15 attachments, a battery and a charger costs about 3,000 rubles.
The Germans delayed the release of a cordless drill for a long time, but they immediately produced a reliable, productive model capable of solving serious professional problems. The GRO 10.8 V-LI is a “multifunctional rotary tool” that comes in a blue casing. Compact (250 x 53 mm) and ergonomic, it weighs only 600 grams including battery.
What is the “professional bias” of the unit? The developers powered the machine from a compact 2 Ah system battery with a voltage of 10.8 volts, which powers a whole line of construction tools (more than 20 devices). That is, we can use a unified battery from another product that is in stock at any time. By the way, to make the product more profitable, the Bosch drill is sold as fully equipped, and without a battery, without a charger.
Despite the battery power, the Bosch GRO 10.8 V-LI Professional is Idling develops a high shaft rotation speed of up to 35,000 rpm, which can be reduced by a wheel to 5 thousand.
As usual, German designers make full use of battery technology and installed it on the machine LED backlight working area. The remaining battery charge level can be monitored using 3 indicator LEDs.
The cost of the Bosch GRO 10.8 V-LI, released in 2014, is still relatively high, about 4,000 rubles, but this instrument already has fans. Direct competitors of the GRO 10.8 V-LI are the Dremel 8200 and 8100, which have similar characteristics and battery with the same strength indicators. The price of the 8100th model is about 4,500 rubles, Dremel 8200 (35 attachments) with battery (Lithium-Ion/ECP) and “fast” charger costs approximately 5200 rubles.
Video on the topic
Continuing detailed review drills, we move on to the category of micromotors. At this hour, this is one of the most popular types. And we will be guided by reviews. very reliable and even more maneuverable than hose ones.
MICROMOT drills are power tools with a motor attached behind the handpiece. They are intended for fine work on ceramics, wood, precious metals, non-ferrous metals, and plastic.
Let's look at MICROMOT drills from the most popular manufacturers.
Proxxon
The Germans thought through everything down to the smallest detail. The Proxon drill fits perfectly in the hand and is capable of working without loss of quality and speed at any angle. It does not have rubber inserts on the handle, but this is not a drawback.
The body is made of special plastic, durable and anti-slip. As for power, this drill will outshine any other even for large jobs. But what’s especially nice is its weight (270 g). All these advantages are especially visible in the Proxxon MICROMOT 230/E model.
Drill DPM 25-2
It has a medical tip, it fits comfortably in the hand, and the price is more than affordable. Her main drawback– this is exactly a medical tip. It cannot withstand heavy loads and quickly fails. As for repairs, after the first breakdown the machine can be thrown away, because the carbon brushes of this unit wear out quickly and cannot be replaced.
Marathon
It is produced in Korea, and for most masters the drill is attractive due to its functionality. It has high revs (30,000 rpm) and excellent power. The disadvantage is the price. Marathon is not cheap, and for all its classiness, it cannot withstand power surges. But in our realities, such drills do not last long.
Dremel engraver
There are a lot of people dissatisfied with this unit. Especially the Dremel engraver 290-1 model. Only 6,000 rpm, the design itself, although small, does not fit well in the hand. The possibilities are very limited: you cannot drill or grind. You can work only if you take it like a ballpoint pen.
The Dremel 200 is a different matter. It has more revolutions (35,000 rpm), a full range of capabilities, but the body is a bit thick. In addition, it itself is short, or rather, the length that it is may not be enough for work.
Bosch
Well, who among the masters has not dreamed of a drill from this company? She looks very beautiful and tempting. In terms of functionality, it is comparable, perhaps, to Proksonovskaya, however, there is one “but”. The entire filling of this unit is very sensitive to force. If you are used to frequently changing speed during the process and working with hard wood, then you will have to think not about how to get the job done, but about how to maintain the machine, and a very expensive one at that.