We plant remontant strawberries. Remontant strawberries How to replant remontant strawberries in the fall

Remontability is the ability of plants to bear fruit repeatedly or repeatedly during one growing season. Repairability is observed in crops such as strawberries, wild strawberries, raspberries and some citrus fruits. In this article we will introduce you to the rules for growing remontant strawberries: how to plant and care for remontant strawberries at different times of the year, how to protect them from pests and diseases, how to propagate and how to prune remontant strawberries.

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• Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings in the middle zone - at the end of February or early March, in warmer areas - two to three weeks later. Planting seedlings in the ground - in the middle or at the end of May.
• Lighting: bright sunlight.
• The soil: leveled, loamy or sandy loam, neutral or slightly acidic reaction.
• Watering: after planting seedlings - daily, after rooting - once every 2-4 days. In dry spring conditions, the first watering of old bushes is carried out at the end of April, and in May and June another 3-4 waterings are carried out. From August to September, the area is watered 2 times a month, trying to wet the soil to a depth of 2-3 cm.
• Feeding: In just one season, 10-15 fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers is carried out from spring to late autumn. From organics, slurry and chicken manure solution are preferred, from mineral complexes - Kemira Lux, Kristallin or Rastvorin.
• Trimming: in the fall, those leaves that may be damaged by pests or infected with harmful plant microorganisms are carefully removed from the bushes. In spring, remove old, overwintered leaves. The mustache can be trimmed at any time.
• Reproduction: mustache, dividing the bush.
• Pests: aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, any beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds.
• Diseases: is affected by gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and Fusarium wilt.

Read more about growing remontant strawberries below.

Remontant strawberry - description

Unlike ordinary strawberries, which lay fruit buds during short daylight hours, remontant varieties crops form them during long (LSD) or neutral (NSD) daylight hours. Remontant strawberry in open ground produces two harvests of berries per season - in July and in August-September, and the second harvest is much more abundant than the first - from 60 to 90% of the total number of fruits per season. The problem is that not all bushes are able to withstand such a load, and many of them die after bearing fruit.

Sowing remontant strawberries

You can purchase remontant strawberry seedlings at a nursery or garden pavilion, or you can buy seeds and grow seedlings from them yourself. However, growing remontant strawberries from seeds requires that the soil moisture for sowing should be in the range of 70-80%. To achieve this, you need to pour 700-800 ml of water into 1 kg of dry substrate (light humus soil or universal soil) and mix this composition thoroughly so that no lumps remain. Then containers with a diameter of 10-15 cm are filled with the moistened substrate, leaving 3 cm free to the edge.

Seeds of remontant strawberries are laid out on the surface of the substrate and sprinkled with them. thin layer dry substrate or sand, after which the crops are lightly sprayed with a fine spray, covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, bright place. Sowing is done in the middle zone at the end of February or beginning of March, and in warmer areas 2-3 weeks earlier.

Caring for remontant strawberry seedlings

Until the seedlings appear, the soil with the crops is kept slightly moist. If the room temperature is maintained at 18-20 ºC, seedlings may appear within 10-15 days. As soon as this happens, transfer the containers with the sprouts to the windowsill of a well-lit window, and if this is difficult, provide the seedlings with additional lighting so that they do not stretch out. At this stage, seedlings need regular ventilation.

Picking remontant strawberries

In the development phase, the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, that is, after about one and a half to two months, they are planted in spacious boxes or in separate pots. Transplant the seedlings to the same depth at which they grew before picking. And one and a half to two weeks before planting the seedlings in open ground, the seedlings are hardened: every day they are taken out for some time to the balcony, terrace or yard, gradually increasing the duration of the session. As soon as the seedlings adapt to external conditions, they can be planted in the garden.

Planting remontant strawberries

When to plant remontant strawberries

It is better to grow remontant strawberries in an area where vegetables such as radishes, parsley, legumes, carrots, beets, garlic, calendula and mustard previously grew. And after crops such as potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, raspberries and cabbage, it is not recommended to grow remontant strawberries. Choose a site for strawberries that is sunny and level, where water will not stagnate. Soils preferable are loamy and sandy loam with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Sod-podzolic and peaty soil are not suitable for growing remontant strawberries.

Seedlings are planted around mid-May or a little later, when the threat of return night frosts has passed. If you decide to plant remontant strawberry bushes before winter, then it is better to do this from mid-August to the end of September.

The soil for remontant strawberries must be prepared in advance: for spring planting - in the fall, and for autumn spring. Dig up the soil on the site with a pitchfork, clearing the future planting site of weeds and adding a bucket of humus, manure or compost and 5 kg of wood ash per m² to the soil. A month before planting seedlings, add 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate to the soil, or one tablespoon of the drug Kalijfos for each m² of area.

Planting remontant strawberries in spring

Seedlings of remontant strawberries are planted in two ways - carpet and row. With the carpet method, seedlings are planted according to a 20x20 cm pattern, and with the row method, a distance of 20-25 cm is maintained between seedlings in a row, and 70 cm between rows.

On a cloudy day, make holes in the area, water them and transfer the seedlings into them along with a lump of earth. You can plant two seedlings in one hole. When planting seedlings, make sure that the roots in the hole do not bend, and that the hearts are slightly above the surface of the area. Carefully squeeze the soil around the bushes so that there are no voids left in the roots, and water the strawberries.

Planting remontant strawberries in the fall

If you plant remontant strawberries in the spring, they will most likely begin to bear fruit only a year later; moreover, not everywhere in mid-May the soil is already warm enough for heat-loving remontant varieties to immediately begin to grow and develop. Therefore, gardeners are increasingly resorting to autumn planting of remontant strawberries, especially since the technique for its implementation has been worked out to its subtleties.

Planting remontant strawberries in late summer or early autumn gives them time to take root and get stronger for the winter without interference such as harmful insects and fungal pathogens. Remontant strawberries are planted in the ground in the fall in the same order as in the spring.

Caring for remontant strawberries in spring

Caring for and growing remontant strawberries differs to some extent from cultivating ordinary garden strawberries. The berries of remontant varieties are large in size - some of them can reach a weight of 100 g, but such success is possible only if the conditions of the crop's agricultural technology are met.

After spring planting For strawberries, it is advisable to mulch the bed with straw, peat, pine needles, sawdust, or cover it with black agrofibre - this measure will allow moisture to remain in the soil longer, and it will be possible to water the strawberries less often. In general, caring for remontant strawberries includes watering them, carefully loosening the soil around the bushes, and timely removal from the garden weed, regular feeding and protection from diseases and pests.

In early spring, old yellow leaves are removed from last year's remontant strawberries and ammonium nitrate is added to the soil. The next nitrogen fertilizing is applied at the end of May.

Remontant strawberries bear fruit for the first time in the spring, but it makes sense to sacrifice the spring harvest in order to collect more berries in the fall, especially since spring remontant berries are much inferior in taste to the fruits of ordinary garden strawberries. And if, in addition to remontant varieties, you also grow ordinary ones, enjoy their fruits in the spring, and remove the flower stalks of remontant strawberries as soon as they appear, and then the bushes will retain strength for abundant autumn fruiting and will give you berries of much higher taste.

However, this technique is effective only for annual and biennial bushes. Although, if you take good care of your remontant strawberries and regularly fertilize them, you will be able to pick berries from them twice a season.

How to care for remontant strawberries in the summer

How to care for remontant strawberries in the summer? After you harvest the first crop, you need to prepare the remontant strawberries for the second fruiting. To do this, you need to regularly fertilize, water and loosen the soil around the bushes. To enhance re-blooming, the leaves are cut off, being careful not to damage the apical bud. However, in some remontant varieties, fruits are also formed on the rosettes of the mustache, so it is better not to trim the leaves of such strawberries.

Remontant strawberries begin their second fruiting in the summer, in August.

Caring for remontant strawberries in the fall

Very often, after the second fruiting, it is necessary to plant new remontant bushes, since not every plant can withstand such a serious load. On average, with good care, a remontant strawberry bush lives and bears fruit for three years, but a lot depends not only on your efforts, but also on the climatic conditions of the area and the composition of the soil.

Watering remontant strawberries

To moisten strawberry beds, there is special scheme, since the crop has a superficial root system, and it cannot take moisture from the deep layers of the soil, while strawberry leaves intensively evaporate moisture. Remontant strawberries, like garden ones, are moistened regularly, but they need moisture even more than ordinary varieties, especially in extreme heat and during the fruiting period. Watering is carried out early in the morning or in the evening and only with warm water.

After planting, young bushes are watered daily for the first few days, and then switched to watering once every 2-4 days. For last year's bushes, the first spring watering, provided there is little natural precipitation, is carried out at the end of April. In May and June, you need to carry out another 3-4 waterings, and from August to September, remontant strawberries are watered at least twice a month. The soil in the beds should be moistened to a depth of 2-3 cm. The next day after watering or after rain, loosen the soil around the bushes to provide the strawberry roots with air and destroy the crust that forms on the surface.

We remind you that mulching the bed or covering the area with black agrofibre will allow you to spend less time and effort on watering, weeding and loosening the soil in beds with remontant strawberries.

Feeding remontant strawberries

Fertilizing remontant strawberries is one of the most important conditions for obtaining high yields and extending the life of plants, since they need a constant supply of potassium and nitrogen. NSD varieties are especially dependent on fertilizing. Phosphorus, if it was added in the required quantity before planting, will no longer need to be added to the soil this season; you can mulch the bed with humus, spending 2-3 kg per m², or with manure at the rate of 5-6 kg per the same unit of area .

At the end of May, remontant strawberries are fertilized with a one to two percent urea solution, and approximately in the second half of June, during the extension of flower stalks of the second harvest, the beds can be watered with a solution of chicken manure or slurry, for which a bucket of manure is diluted with 8-10 parts of water, and a bucket of concentrated slurry - 3-4 parts.

In total, from 10 to 15 complex feedings are carried out per season. Fertilize remontant strawberries until late autumn, while their roots are growing, otherwise they will retire weakened and exhausted. For fertilizing, not only organic, but also mineral fertilizers are used, for example, Mortar, Kemiru Lux or Kristallin.

Transplanting remontant strawberries

Actually, there is no point in replanting remontant strawberry bushes, since they are short-lived and usually last no more than three to four years, even with very good care. And we will tell you how to transplant the resulting daughter rosettes in the section on the propagation of remontant varieties.

But if you still have a need to replant strawberry bushes, you should understand that in the fall this is done no later than three weeks before frost. Transplanting remontant strawberries in the spring will deprive you of the opportunity to get a quick harvest, so replant them as early as possible, before flower stalks appear, and then you will be able to get the first berries after mid-July. If flower stalks have already appeared, you will have to remove them to allow the strawberries to spend energy on successful rooting and adaptation, and not on flowering.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Pruning remontant strawberries in autumn

After the end of autumn fruiting, you need to carefully remove the leaves from the bushes, trying not to damage the axils of the upper leaves, since it is in them that the plant lays next year’s fruit buds. Leaves are removed in order to get rid of possible infections and pests - only mature healthy shoots will remain for the winter. Pruning of remontant strawberries should be completed with preventive treatment of the area against diseases and pests.

As for the mustache, you can trim it throughout the season, or you can not trim it at all. Some gardeners believe that they should be pruned so that the plantings do not become overgrown, but others argue that some varieties of remontant strawberries bear fruit on daughter rosettes that grow on the mustache, so you cannot trim the mustache, and to prevent the plantings from becoming overgrown, you just need to plant the bushes at a considerable distance from each other. However, on the eve of winter, if you are planning to trim the leaves of remontant strawberries, you should also trim the mustache.

Pruning strawberries in remontant spring

In the spring, old, yellow, overwintered leaves are trimmed from strawberry bushes, if you did not trim them the previous fall, after which the remontant strawberries are treated against diseases and pests. And it must be said that many gardeners prefer to prune remontant strawberries in the spring.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

We have already described the propagation of remontant strawberries by seed seedlings. How else can you propagate this type of strawberry?

Propagation of remontant strawberries by mustache

If you want to expand your remontant strawberry bed with rooted runners, you'll have to sacrifice a second crop. During the first fruiting, mark the strongest and most developed annual bushes, place their first tendrils in grooves made along the side of the bed, and the remaining tendrils will have to be cut off so that they do not weaken the mother bush. After a while, sprouts will begin to appear on the mustache, but you will only need to leave the first rosettes. Trim the second-order tendrils, but do not separate the first rosettes from the mother plant.

While they are gaining volume and strength, water and weed the soil around them. A week before transplanting the rosettes to a permanent place, separate them from the mother plant, and then replant them as described at the beginning of the article.

Propagation of remontant strawberries by dividing the bush

This method of propagating remontant strawberries is used when there is not enough planting material. Divide into developed bushes of two, three and four years of age with strong roots - by this age the bush has already formed many shoots-horns, each of which has a rosette of leaves. Such a bush is dug up in early spring or in the fall, they are carefully divided into horns, after which they are planted in the garden bed.

Remontant strawberries in winter

With the onset of autumn, watering strawberries is gradually reduced, sanitary pruning, if you are sure that remontant strawberries should be pruned in the fall, carry out preventive treatment against diseases and pests, after which they allow the remontant strawberries to survive a couple of frosts and only after that cover them for the winter non-woven material, although where winters are short and mild, sawdust, fallen leaves, hay or straw can be used as shelter. Old bushes that are unlikely to bear fruit next season need to be dug up before the first snow.

Pests and diseases of remontant strawberries

Diseases of remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries suffer from the same diseases as ordinary garden ones: gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and fusarium wilt.

Pests of remontant strawberries

The pests most often affecting remontant strawberries are aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds. Diseases and pests of remontant strawberries, as well as methods for getting rid of them, are described in detail in the article already posted on our website.

Varieties of remontant strawberries

As already mentioned, varieties of remontant strawberries come in two types - NSD (neutral daylight hours) and DSD (long daylight hours). The former bear fruit continuously, while the latter produce two or three harvests per season. In addition, remontant varieties are divided into those that form mustaches and those that do not form them, as well as small-fruited and large-fruited. We offer you a description of varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in warm regions, in the middle zone and Siberia.

Varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region

The best varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region:

• Aromas– highly productive variety, resistant to powdery mildew and strawberry mite with large, dense, shiny berries of high taste;
• Vima Rina- a Dutch day-neutral variety that almost does not form runners, begins bearing fruit in the second half of June and stops forming fruits with the first frost. The berries of this variety are dark red in color, large - weighing up to 75 g, not very dense in consistency, with high taste;
• hybrid Tristan- a compact, early-flowering variety that hardly forms a mustache and bears fruit throughout the summer with sweet berries of dark red color and medium size. The flowers of this variety are large, juicy pink;
• Garland– one of the best remontant varieties, which has no equal in terms of productivity. In addition, it is highly decorative, since on the bush you can simultaneously see flowers, ovaries, and red sweet fruits weighing about 40 g. Strawberries of this variety are grown both in beds and in vertical cultivation;
• Diamond– an American highly productive variety with the best taste characteristics to date. Diamond fruits are dense, large - up to 50 g in weight, shiny, dark red in color. Since the pulp of the berries is light, it is not used for processing. Bushes of this variety are capable of forming mustaches, which greatly facilitates its propagation.

In addition to those described, remontant strawberries for the Moscow region have proven themselves well in the varieties Cascade, Cardinal, Queen Elizabeth 2, Ostara, Sweet Evi, Evis Delight, Evi 2, Elsanta, Selva, Figaro, Florin, Floriant, Everest, hybrids Merlan, Pican, Roman and others .

Varieties of remontant strawberries for Siberia

In the harsh Siberian climate, it is not easy to grow heat-loving plants, and not every strawberry variety can fully develop and bear fruit in such conditions. However, there are varieties that can be grown here: they produce the first harvest together with ordinary garden strawberries, and in order to wait for the second harvest, you will have to use film to cover the beds. The best varieties for Siberia are:

• Queen Elizabeth 2 – winter-hardy variety with early fruiting, the berries of which are bright red, excellent taste, with dense pulp, sometimes reaching a weight of 100-110 g;
• Mount Everest- an unpretentious variety in terms of soil composition, resistant to diseases and pests, with powerful, densely leafy bushes, tall peduncles and bright red small berries of a conical shape and good taste. This variety forms mustache only in the first year of growth;
• Inexhaustible– large-fruited productive variety, bred by crossing the Inexhaustible and Upper Silesia and forming medium height slightly spreading bushes with large dark green foliage, on which large, blunt-ended, shiny berries of excellent taste ripen. The pulp of the berries of this variety is light pink. The variety produces few whiskers and is also susceptible to powdery mildew;
• Russian size– a large-fruited hybrid variety, resistant to frost and disease, with juicy berries of excellent taste;
• Ada– a high-yielding variety of German selection, capable of forming a large number of mustaches. The berries are bright red, medium in size, shiny, elongated-conical, with an average weight of 5-6 g. The pulp is white with a red core, loose, with a pleasant sour-sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is its instability to strawberry mite and white leaf spot;
• Diva- also a hybrid variety with powerful bushes, tall peduncles and bright red sweet berries.

In order to determine which variety of remontant strawberries is better than others, you need to be aware of what you expect from it. Some gardeners are more interested in the size of the berries, others - the taste, and still others - the ability to form mustaches, because it is desirable to be able to propagate the variety you like. We offer you a description different varieties, and you decide for yourself which one you need. So, the best remontant strawberries:

• Brighton- a beardless variety of NSD, bred by American breeders. In protected ground conditions, this strawberry bears fruit for up to 10 months a year, and in open ground - from spring to late autumn. The fruits of this variety, red, shiny, sweet and sour in taste, reach a weight of 50 g. During cold weather they become larger and elongated. The variety is distinguished by its cold resistance, as well as resistance to diseases and pests;
• Crimean remontant– one of the best DSD varieties of Ukrainian selection – high-yielding, continuously bearing fruit from the end of May to October. The berries of this variety are smooth, juicy, large, dark red in color, with the aroma of wild strawberries. The advantages of the variety are also high decorativeness, winter hardiness, resistance to strawberry mites and diseases. The harvest is formed both on bushes and on rosettes;
• Autumn fun- one of the first DSD varieties of Soviet selection, bearing fruit twice a season. The juicy fruits of this variety weigh 20 g, have dense pulp and an excellent dessert taste. The variety produces mustaches and is resistant to nematodes, strawberry mites and fungal diseases;
• Novel- a hybrid variety NSD, which differs from others in its high decorativeness due to pink flowers on long peduncles, effectively standing out against the background of lush green leaves. Strawberries bear fruit in protected soil at proper care up to 10 months a year. The fruits are smooth, weighing up to 25 g, excellent taste and pleasant aroma;
• San Rival– a variety of French selection with medium yield. The first berries of the harvest are irregularly shaped, ribbed, comb-shaped. Subsequently, the fruits develop of medium size, round, without a neck, shiny and pubescent. The taste of the berries is sweet and sour, the pulp is juicy and tender. The advantage of the variety is also the ability to form a large number of whiskers, which greatly facilitates the cultivation of strawberries;
• Selva- a variety of American selection, bred by crossing the Brighton, Pajero and Tufts varieties. Bushes are vigorous, with large leaves, but compact. The berries are large, light red, elastic, shiny, cone-shaped, with dense juicy pulp, but have a rustic taste and inexpressive aroma. The variety is resistant to diseases of roots and leaves, but is not frost-resistant;
• Herzberg Triumph- a winter-hardy variety that forms many mustaches, bred by German breeders, with dark red, shiny truncated-conical small berries weighing up to 6.5 g with dense, but tender and juicy pulp with a sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is instability to angular and white spots;
• Yellow miracle- a beardless variety for lovers of curiosities. This is a disease- and pest-resistant yellow remontant strawberry with medium-sized fruits weighing up to 3 g, elongated-conical in shape, growing on compact bushes up to 25 cm high. The variety is not particularly fragrant.

Recently, breeders have developed new varieties and hybrids of remontant strawberries that may be of interest to gardeners. For example:

• Albion– a Californian variety resistant to weather stress, anthracnose, late blight, rot and wilt with dark red, large shiny conical fruits, a unique strong aroma and intense sweet taste. The fruits ripen well to the very tip. Young leaves have a strong shine;
• Gigantella Maxi– a Dutch variety with very large berries, weighing up to 100 g;
• Crown– also a Dutch variety with aromatic red fruits of excellent taste that tolerate transportation well;
• Kimberly– a variety with sweet red berries that taste like caramel;
• Galya Chiv– a new highly productive Italian large-fruited variety – the average weight of bright red fruits, characterized by high sugar content, is 45 g;
• Lyubava (or Lyubasha)- unpretentious, high-yielding and the most winter-hardy of all remontant varieties with small dark red oval-rhombic berries weighing 20-30 g, with an intense taste and aroma. This strawberry produces berries both on bushes and on rosettes, so it is used for vertical growing;
• Portola- a high-yielding variety bred in 2009 in California. Its large, shiny, regularly conical-shaped fruits are similar to Albion berries, but slightly lighter and have a more harmonious taste, practically devoid of acid. Fruit weight is about 30 g. The variety can be grown both in protected and open ground. The disadvantages of the variety are instability to fungal and viral diseases;

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To rejuvenate strawberry bushes, restore the ability of plants to bear fruit, or simply expand the garden bed, transplanting strawberries to a new place has been invented. It is important to carry out the procedure correctly and at the right time. We will talk about when to transplant strawberries to a new place and how to do it in this article.

If you are determined to get a good harvest, transplanting strawberries to a new place should become part of your mandatory garden care. Usually the plant is replanted once every three years. For the first four years (maybe less, depending on the variety), strawberries grow rapidly, after which the yield drops. In order for the plant to begin to delight with an abundance of fruits again, it is necessary to replant the strawberries. This procedure will refresh the plantings. After transplanting, the strawberries will bear fruit well again. In addition, over several years, a lot of bacteria and pests have accumulated in the soil where the plants “lived,” so replanting will benefit the strawberries.

When to replant and plant strawberries

Before taking up his plan, every farmer wonders when to transplant strawberries to a new place. You should not carry out the procedure under scorching sunlight. The best time to transfer is in the evening. It is best to build an awning for young shoots.

It is very important to take into account weather conditions so that the plants take root well. You can replant strawberries only in cool weather, when the air temperature does not exceed 20⁰C.

As for the time of year, the only season when you should not replant strawberries is winter. Spring, summer and autumn are considered suitable times. In all these cases, transplanting garden strawberries is equally successful.

Transplanting strawberries in the spring allows the plants to take root over the summer, but the fruits appear only on next year. Strawberries are planted in summer after fruiting has ended. And replanting strawberries in the fall is a great way to get a harvest next summer.

Also, when it comes to replanting strawberries, you should take into account the climatic characteristics of the area in which you grow them. Precipitation, the duration of warm seasons, the time of the first cold weather - all this must be taken into account. In order for the berry to grow well, it needs a certain temperature and humidity. Young plants need to take root.

Transplantation in spring

When the weather became warm outside and the bushes came to life, spring transplant strawberries would be very helpful. Transplanted plants, provided they are regularly watered and protected from aggressive sun, will quickly take root in their new location. It is important that the cold does not return, otherwise you will not get a harvest.

The timing of transplanting strawberries in the spring depends on the climatic characteristics of the region and the plant variety. Early varieties in warm regions transplanted in early April. However, if your area has a cool or inconsistent spring, it is better to wait until May. It is necessary to carry out the event before flowering begins. Berries transplanted in spring are carefully looked after: watered and fed regularly.

How to replant

At the first stage, those killed for winter period, sick and weak plants. Next, the transplanted plants are dug up by the roots. After this, wide and deep holes are prepared for planting. A ten-centimeter layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of each of them. During planting, carefully monitor the “heart” of the plant; it should not be too deep or raised above the surface.

The soil is compacted a little and lightly loosened on top. If you decide to replant strawberries in the spring, then you need to fertilize them for the first time two weeks after the procedure.

What to feed in spring

In addition to how to plant strawberries correctly, to get a harvest you need to know how to further care for them. An important part of care is feeding. It is recommended to feed strawberries three times a year: in early spring (April), before flowering, and at the end of fruiting.

The first fertilizing can be done with organic and inorganic fertilizers. Organics include: chicken droppings, ash, manure, humus. Organic fertilizers laid out under bushes or applied as aqueous solutions. You should be careful with chicken droppings; due to the large amount of nitrogen, its high concentration can harm the roots of the plant.

Inorganic fertilizers should contain potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and magnesium. It is necessary to strictly follow the instructions on the packaging. At your request, the agricultural store can select the optimal fertilizer for your strawberry variety.

Transplant in summer

The best season to plant strawberries to expand the garden bed is summer. The same time is suitable for rejuvenating plantings and planting young rosettes. In summer, strawberries can be planted after fruiting. The exact time depends on which month the particular variety produces its harvest. Optimal time July - August is considered to be the time for the procedure.

Several mother shoots are left on the bushes, and the excess ones are cut off. The plants are carefully fertilized, strong rosettes are removed from the mother bush. A new place for strawberries is prepared in advance. Rotted manure is brought in and digging is carried out. After the second digging, the strawberries can be planted. It is important that the roots of the seedlings do not dry out. When the strawberries are transplanted, all that remains is to follow the basic care rules and prepare the plant for winter in time.

Autumn planting

According to experienced gardeners, the best time to replant strawberries is autumn. This is the rainy season, so you don't have to worry about watering the young plants. The best month when it is most convenient to replant garden strawberries is September, sometimes mid-October. Before winter, the plant has time to acquire leaves and take root properly. With warming, young bushes begin to grow actively and bear their first harvest.

Transplant technology

A lot has already been written about how to properly transplant strawberries. There are a number of basic rules that must be followed in order for the plants to produce a good harvest. It is best to choose a piece of land where legumes, garlic, carrots, radishes, and beets used to grow. It is also good to plant strawberries after green manure plants.

But after tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers and cabbage, you shouldn’t plant strawberries. If you do not have the opportunity to transfer your plantings to an area with predecessors suitable for berries, you should disinfect the soil with fungicides.

It is worth choosing loose, slightly acidic soils for strawberries. The soil is prepared in advance and rotted compost is added. A bucket of fertilizer is used per square meter. Organic matter is the only thing worth feeding strawberries at this stage. The night before, water the bed well. The holes are dug just before planting. Leave 20-15 cm between bushes, and half a meter between rows.

When propagating strawberries, remember that the plant reproduces by young rosettes, and some varieties by dividing the bush. For the procedure, you only need strong bushes, with roots at least 5 cm in length and 4-5 leaves.

Before planting, the roots of the plant are dipped in hot water for 15 minutes. The water temperature should be approximately 50 degrees. Then for 10 minutes - in cold water. If it is not possible to transplant immediately, then wrap the roots of the plant with a wet cloth and wrap it with cling film on top. After replanting, you need to mulch.

If you use a two-line planting scheme, the distance between the bushes will be approximately 25 cm, and between the lines - 40 cm, with a bed width of 80 cm.

Transplanting remontant strawberries

Gardeners often have questions related to transplanting remontant strawberries. After all, you don’t have to worry about strawberries when you can replant them and propagate them with rosettes (whiskers). But remontant strawberries are propagated by dividing the bush, shoots or seeds.

The bush should be divided in the spring, after fruiting. Strong bushes are dug up and their roots are cleared from the ground. The plant is divided using a knife, being careful not to damage the heart. In this case, the transplanted part must have roots and at least three leaves. Last year's brown roots are removed, leaving white ones up to 7 cm long.

Small-fruited varieties are planted in a permanent place according to a pattern of 20x30 cm, and large-fruited varieties - 80x30 cm. Seedlings of remontant strawberries love light, but do not tolerate excess moisture.

If you want to move old bushes to a new place, and not just expand the garden bed, you should keep in mind that this procedure is carried out every two years. It is better to carry it out in September. At this time, it is still warm outside, and the plants will have time to take root before the cold weather. When transplanting, try not to bury the heart in the ground. In general, replanting strawberries is almost as easy as replanting strawberries. Remontant strawberries can be planted in the ground for the summer, and in pots for the winter.

Sweet and fragrant strawberries are loved by both children and adults. The only pity is that the fruiting period of the berries is quite short.

Read also

However, there are strawberries that produce several times a year.

This is not science fiction, but a remontant strawberry, slowly but surely conquering the hearts and plots of gardeners.

What are remontant strawberries?

Repairability means the ability to flower repeatedly (and, accordingly, bear fruit). For some reason, it is generally accepted that simple, “disposable” strawberries are superior in taste to remontant strawberries, which makes the latter a rare guest in personal plots. And, by the way, in vain.

In addition to intensive fruiting, the main advantage is that remontant strawberries do not require complex care or special agricultural technology. Of course, it is not without mistakes - many gardeners care for remontant strawberries in the same way as for simple garden ones.

We will look at all the intricacies of caring for remontant strawberries, starting from planting.

First you need to decide on the type of strawberry.

There are only two of them. Strawberries forming buds under neutral daylight hours (NDD) and long daylight hours (LDD). Seed bags have these markings, so you can easily choose the type you need. Productivity in most cases is higher with the VAT type.

Also, it is worth paying attention to the fruiting of the selected variety. Strawberries can be continuously fruiting (these are vineless varieties) and fruiting twice a year.

There are many varieties of remontant strawberries, all of them are also divided into two types - without mustaches and giving mustaches. Besusaya has a number of advantages. It is resistant to diseases, is not picky about the planting site, it can be planted even in shaded areas, and grows in one place for a long time without requiring replanting.

At the same time, mustachioed strawberries begin to bear fruit the same year they were planted. The choice, of course, is yours.

When to plant remontant strawberries

It is necessary early - at the end of February-beginning of March. It is very convenient to use Petri dishes for this, but each gardener has his own way of obtaining seedlings.

After the strawberries take root and begin to grow, they should be moved to a well-lit place, periodically strengthening the roots with fresh soil.

In addition to seeds, remontant strawberries can be propagated by mustaches, as well as by dividing the bush. Reproduction by mustache is the easiest way. But seeds are already aerobatics for experienced gardeners. But strawberries propagated by seeds produce a harvest already in the first summer.

Strawberry transplant

Remontant strawberry – description, photo

Fruiting varieties form fruit buds several times during the growing season, which is the main difference between the fruiting species and the classic one. Usually the fruits ripen in mid-summer and early autumn. As practice shows, the second harvest produces more fruit than the first.

Given its particular fertility, the berry is demanding in terms of care, substrate quality, and watering. Having created all the necessary conditions for growth and development, the bushes can bear fruit for 3-4 years. In this variety, not every bush is able to withstand a colossal load, so often the weaker ones die after the fruits are formed.

Interesting! Bushes that produce double yields have weaker greenery and smaller fruits than traditional garden crops.

Features of growing remontant strawberries

Translated from French, the term “remontant” means “to bloom again, to rise again.” After the first harvest, this variety begins to form buds for the next one. The berry is sensitive to daylight hours. Therefore, there are three photoperiodic types:

1. Have a short day. Includes classic varieties with the ability to produce a single harvest with the onset of summer. Fruit buds are laid at the end of summer with a fairly short daylight hours (no more than 12 hours). Fruiting occurs with 14 hours of daylight.
2. Have a long day. These include varieties that can form buds in a 16-17 hour day. Approximately this is the period from the second half of May to the first half of July. Flowering begins with a 12-hour day, the harvest ripens at the end of summer.
3. Neutral day. The formation of buds and the flowering period do not depend on the length of the day, therefore it lasts from the beginning of spring to the end of the growing season. This process is repeated every 6 weeks. The southern regions are capable of producing 4 crops in open ground.

Important! Temperatures of 25 degrees and drought make pollen sterile, which threatens the lack of collection. The maximum yield from the neutral type can be obtained by growing it indoors.

Popular varieties of remontant strawberries

All varieties are divided into two types, including their famous varieties.

Small-fruited

They do not create whiskers; they reproduce only by seeds. Fruits all season, until the first frost. The most famous varieties:

1. "Ali Baba" - has a spreading bush 15 cm tall, capable of forming many inflorescences. The fruits have an elongated shape, scarlet color on the outside, white on the inside, and a soft forest aroma. The species exhibits remarkable resistance to diseases, pests, and frost. It is a high-yielding species.
2. "Alexandria" is a high-yielding, unpretentious species. Bears fruit weighing 7 grams.
3. “Baron Solemacher” is resistant to attacks by insects and diseases. The fruits weigh about 4 grams, have a bright scarlet hue, and have convex inclusions. The berries are quite sweet, without excess acid.
4. “Forest Tale” - medium-sized bushes continuously form many inflorescences. It is a high-yielding species. The slightly elongated fruits have a sweet and sour taste and weigh about 5 grams.
5. "Ruyana" - a compact plant produces large juicy berries of a rich scarlet color, with an expressive smell similar to wild strawberries. The fruits ripen a couple of weeks earlier than other varieties. This type shows resistance to drought, frost, diseases, and pests. Gives high yields.
6. "Rügen" is a dessert variety. It bears fruits of an elongated shape, bright red color, with unsurpassed taste and aroma. Flowering and ripening occur earlier than other varieties.

Informative! Small-fruited varieties are often confused with strawberries.

Large-fruited

During the growing season it yields 2-3 times. They reproduce using whiskers. The fruits can reach a weight of 100 grams. Famous varieties are:

1. "Queen Elizabeth" - a powerful bushy plant produces berries weighing 50-125 grams. Updated every season, can be used in vertical cultivation.
2. “Temptation” - a hybrid species retains fruiting from the end of spring until the first autumn frosts. The berries have a slight nutmeg flavor and dense, juicy pulp. The average weight of the berry is 30 g. Suitable for use in ornamental gardening.
3. "Dynamite" - an American type of crop bears fruits with white pulp weighing about 20g. During the growing season it forms many whiskers. Shows resistance to pests and various diseases.
4. "Evi 2" is another foreign representative. It has a special immunity to dry climates. The berries are quite sweet, juicy, weighing 20g.
5. “Moscow delicacy” - pleases its owners with strong, tall bushes, bringing in abundant harvest. The fruits weigh 35 grams, the aftertaste resembles the taste of cherries. It is resistant to frost and diseases.
6. "Monterey" - a foreign guest has strong stems, fairly sweet cone-shaped fruits, reaching a weight of 20g. It has a high yield percentage and is difficult to develop in continental regions.

Advice! When choosing one type or another, it is important to take into account the growing climate, as well as the condition of the soil.

The best varieties of remontant strawberries in terms of yield and endurance

Among the diversity there are still the best famous species:

1. Vima Rima. It is one of the best varieties. Bred by Dutch breeders. Fruit formation begins in mid-June and lasts until the first autumn frosts. It has good taste and a fairly soft structure. The bushes produce a large number of young whiskers. The berries are quite large - about 75 grams, and exhibit good transportability.
2. Elizabeth 2. Is a clone of the Queen Elizabeth species. Among gardeners it is considered the best variety. It is famous for its large, brightly colored fruits weighing 30-100 grams. The first harvest may have a slightly deformed shape. Dessert berries do not have a pronounced aroma, are excessively sweet, and are particularly dense, which allows the product to be used in any form of freezing or processing. Productivity is 2-3 times higher than other types. Due to the ability to preserve flower stalks for the winter, quite early fruiting is noted, somewhere in the second half of May. The berries ripen for a long time: the first harvest is the beginning of June, the peak yield is mid-June, the next harvest depends on climatic conditions.
3. Albion. Another representative of the work of breeders, bred in California. Many recognize it as the best due to the presence of cultural characteristics of several varieties. Bushes of medium height with well-developed greenery. The fruits are large, slightly elongated, and very pleasant to taste. The number of sunny days during the growing season greatly affects the sweetness and aroma of the product. Ripening occurs almost simultaneously - by mid-June half of the first harvest has time to ripen.
4. Irma. Also the best representative of the variety. Developed by Italian scientists. The bushes are erect, of medium height, with a moderate amount of foliage. The fruits have an elongated conical shape, weighing from 20 to 50g. It has a bright taste; even the rainy season does not spoil the taste of the berry.

Important! Regardless of the type of crop, compliance with the rules of agricultural technology, proper watering, and regular fertilizing with complex fertilizers is required.

Growing remontant strawberries from seeds

To grow crops from seeds, the seedling propagation method is used. Seeds are sown in February or the first ten days of March. If you sow seeds for seedlings later, the transfer time to the site will fall at the peak summer heat, which will additionally require protecting seedlings from scorching sun rays, careful watering, and spraying. In addition, not all seedlings will be able to take root in hot conditions.

Sowing remontant strawberries

Before sowing, prepare special loose, moist soil. The crops are sprinkled with dry soil and covered with polyethylene. Leave in a warm, well-lit place. For sprouts to appear in two to three weeks, the air temperature should be at least 20 degrees.

Caring for remontant strawberry seedlings

After the seedlings emerge, the cover is removed from the container, the temperature is lowered or the seedlings are transferred to a cooler room. It is important to maintain lighting levels. If necessary, install additional lighting to avoid stretching of seedlings. Lighting must last for at least 10 hours. The room where seedlings grow should be ventilated daily.

Picking remontant strawberries

After two months, the first 2-3 leaves form at the seedlings. At this stage, you can pick individual containers or spacious boxes. It is important to maintain the same planting depth as before the pick.

A couple of weeks before planting seedlings in the beds, you can carry out the hardening procedure. You should take the seedlings out into the yard or onto the balcony for a certain time every day, gradually increasing the duration of the seedlings’ exposure to the air. After adapting the seedlings to climatic conditions, you can begin planting.

Know! If you did not have time to sow the seeds in February-March, it is recommended to grow seedlings in the summer. Then it is necessary to transfer in the first ten days of September.

Planting remontant strawberries

• legumes;
• radish;
• carrot;
• mustard;
• parsley;
• garlic;
• beet.

The area is not suitable for cultivation after:

• cucumbers;
• cabbage;
• tomato;
• potatoes;
• raspberries

The area for the beds should be sunny, level, with good drainage system. Preference should be given to sandy, loamy soils with a neutral, slightly acidic reaction. Peat and soddy-podzolic soils are strictly not suitable for cultivation.

When to plant remontant strawberries

They begin to plant seedlings after the threat of night frosts has passed, approximately the second half of May, the beginning of June. The soil on the site is prepared in advance: it is carefully dug up, removing all weeds, humus, manure or compost, and wood ash are added at the rate of 5 kg per 1 square meter.

20-25 days before planting, add 20 grams of potassium sulfate, 40 grams of superphosphate, or 1 tbsp. spoons of Kalijphos per 1 square meter.

Planting remontant strawberries in spring

There are two methods for planting seedlings:

• carpet - seedlings are placed according to a 20*20 cm pattern;
• ordinary - between seedlings a distance of 20-25 cm is maintained along the row, 70 cm between the beds.

Planting must be done in cloudy weather. They make holes on the site, water them, transfer seedlings into the holes, preserving the earthen ball. You can place 1-2 seedlings in one hole. The core of the shoot should be slightly above ground level. The soil around is carefully pressed down and watered.

Remember! When burying seedlings, it is important to avoid bending the roots in the hole.

Planting remontant strawberries in the fall

When planting seedlings in the spring, the first fruiting appears the next season. Therefore, gardeners prefer autumn landing. Seedlings are planted in August or September. Thus, she has time to gain strength before the winter cold, especially since pests and fungal infections are not dangerous. The rules and methods of planting in the fall completely coincide with the rules for planting in the spring.

Growing remontant strawberries

The quality and quantity of fruiting directly depends on the correct care provided.

Caring for remontant strawberries in spring

The basics of growing and caring for fruit-bearing varieties differ slightly from the rules for processing classic garden crops. The fruits of these species are famous for their large size, weighing up to 100 grams. Nevertheless, such a result is only possible with strict adherence to the simple but very important rules of agricultural technology.

Following spring planting, it is recommended to mulch the beds with pine needles, straw, peat, sawdust, or cover them with dark agrofibre. Thus, the moisture in the soil will evaporate longer, and watering can be done a little less often.
With the onset of spring, yellowed foliage is cut off from old bushes. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil. The second feeding is carried out in the second half of May.

The first fruiting forms in the spring. Many gardeners recommend sacrificing these fruits in order to accumulate the maximum harvest in the fall delicious berries. In addition, the spring harvest is very inferior in taste to the usual classic strawberries. As a rule, gardeners grow both classic and fruit-bearing varieties. Then, with the onset of summer, they enjoy the fruiting of traditional crops, and the flower stalks of the fruit-bearing species are removed, preserving them for the formation of a secondary harvest, filling the berries with rich taste properties.

Note! General care consists of regular watering, careful loosening of the soil, careful timely removal of weeds, systematic feeding, protection from diseases and all kinds of insects.

How to care for remontant strawberries in the summer

After removing the first harvest, it is necessary to prepare the plant for the second. For this purpose, it is necessary to systematically fertilize, loosen, and water the beds. To increase secondary flowering, carefully trim the foliage without damaging the apical buds. It is necessary to take into account the presence of varieties that form ovaries on rosettes. The foliage of such varieties is not cut off. At the end of summer it begins next stage fruiting.

Caring for remontant strawberries in the fall

Often, after harvesting repeated fruiting, gardeners have to plant new bushes, because not every plant can withstand such a heavy load. If all care recommendations are followed, the bush can live and bear fruit for three years. It all depends on the correctness of actions, the quality of the soil, and climatic conditions.

Feeding remontant strawberries

The introduction of nutritional components is an important point in acquiring a high yield and prolonging the viability of the bushes. This requires continuous addition of potassium and nitrogen fertilizers. Day-neutral varieties are considered to be the most in need. If phosphorus was added before planting, it may not be added during the season. The beds are mulched with humus, adding 2 kg of product per 1 sq. m (you can use 5 kg of manure per 1 sq. m).

At the end of May, a 1.5% urea solution is added. In mid-June, at the peak of the formation of peduncles of the second harvest, the plantation is watered with chicken droppings. For this purpose, prepare an aqueous solution in the proportion of a bucket of litter to 10 liters of water.
A total of 10-15 feedings per season may be required. They continue to fertilize until late autumn, while the root system is forming; otherwise, the strawberries will go into winter weak and exhausted.

For your information! For fertilizer, not only organic matter is used, but also mineral fertilizers such as Kemiru, Mortar, Kristallin, Lux.

Watering remontant strawberries

Watering has a specific technology that takes into account the shallow placement of roots and the rapid evaporation of moisture from the leaves. Moistening is carried out regularly, approximately twice as much as for classic berries. During the summer heat and generous fruiting, watering is increased. The optimal time for hydration is considered to be early morning or evening; use room water.

After planting young bushes for a week, watering is carried out daily, after which watering is carried out once every 3-4 days. Last season's bushes are watered from the end of April. During May-June, watering is carried out 3-4 times. From August to September, watering is carried out two to three times a month. The soil should be moistened 2-3 cm deep. The next day the soil must be loosened. This will allow air to pass through and break the dried crust.

Transplanting remontant strawberries

As such, replanting the berry is not required. After all, bushes are not durable and live for 3-4 years, even under conditions of ideal supervision. Formed daughter rosettes are usually transplanted.

If for some reason there is a need to replant, you should remember that in the fall it must be done no later than 20 days before the first cold weather. If you replant in the spring, the possibility of early fruiting will disappear. Because of this, it is necessary to replant before the inflorescences appear. Then the first fruits will appear in the second half of July.

Advice! When the moment is missed, and the inflorescences have already formed, they should be removed. This will allow the plant to put all its efforts into growing the root ball and adapting to the new location.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Pruning remontant strawberries in autumn

Upon completion of fruiting, carefully remove the foliage, trying not to injure the apical sinuses, because this is where the fruit buds are formed for the next season. Cleaning leaves helps prevent a variety of infections. Only mature strong stems are left for wintering. The procedure is completed by treating the area against diseases and harmful insects.
Mustaches are allowed to be trimmed throughout the season. But this is not necessary. Some gardeners are sure that getting rid of the mustache allows you to monitor the planting density. Others say that fruiting rosettes form on the growing mustache, so they cannot be cut off. But before winter, it’s still worth removing old leaves and tendrils.

Pruning remontant strawberries in spring

If the leaves and tendrils were not removed in the fall, this procedure is done in the spring. Afterwards, the plant is treated with drugs against pests and diseases. Most gardeners prefer spring pruning.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

As is already known, the crop can be propagated by seeds using the seedling method. Reproduction by mustache or division of the bush is also possible.

Propagation of remontant strawberries by mustache

When choosing a mustache propagation method, you have to sacrifice the second stage of fruiting. At the stage of the first fruiting, strong, healthy bushes are noted, and the regrown tendrils are laid out along specially prepared grooves located next to the beds. The remaining mustache is removed to avoid weakening the mother bush. After the sprouts appear on the mustache, the first rosettes are left. The next tendrils are cut off, but the first rosettes cannot be separated from the mother bush.

Remember! While young sprouts accumulate strength, they are regularly watered and weeded from weeds. 10 days before transferring the shoots to a new location, you need to separate them from the parent plant. Subsequent planting is carried out according to the standard scheme for the crop.

Propagation of remontant strawberries by dividing the bush

This method is used when there is a shortage of planting material. Mature bushes are divided at the age of 3-4 years. During this period, numerous shoots with a rosette of leaves have time to form. They are dug up in the spring (autumn), carefully separated, and planted in a prepared place.

Remontant strawberries in winter

In the fall, watering the berries is reduced; if desired, sanitary pruning is performed, and treatment is carried out against diseases and pests. After the first autumn cold, cover the breasts with non-woven fabric. In mild winters, you can use hay, leaves, sawdust, and straw for shelter. Outdated bushes that produce a poor harvest are dug up before the first snow.

Growing and caring for remontant strawberries on the balcony

Growing strawberries on the balcony is a completely real dream. Anyone can enjoy the beautiful berries without having a summer cottage. The same species are grown on the balcony as in summer cottages. When growing remontant varieties on the balcony, the owner receives a huge bonus - the opportunity to enjoy aromatic berries all year round.

Experts recommend choosing “Queen Elizabeth” and “Bolero” for growing on balconies. These varieties give good collection, and the berries are quite large. If you do not want to harvest year-round, you can choose early or late varieties. It can be:

• "Roxana";
• "Catherine 2";
• "Festival";
• "Beauty of Zagorje";
• "Desnyanka".

Know! There are no special “balcony” varieties! If the seller offers exactly this type of plant, this is pure deception.

Any container is suitable as a container for growing. You can use special boxes, plastic pots, plastic containers, or even plastic bags. Experienced gardeners are sure that bags are the right container, because when they are used, growing conditions are as close as possible to natural ones.

• chernozem (10 units);
• peat (10 units);
• humus (10 units);
• sawdust (3 units);
• sand (1 unit).

Thanks to these components, you will get excellent nutritious soil for growing crops. Seedlings are planted in spring or autumn. Planting is not done deeply, which prevents disruption of the formation of new leaves. After planting, the roots of the plant are covered with soil. Then, for better rooting, you can water the seedlings with a heteroauxin solution. 1 tablet of the drug is diluted in 5 liters of liquid. The soil surface must be mulched. You need to ensure that the soil does not dry out.

Important! For cultivation it is necessary to use fresh soil. The soil after other crops is not suitable. Otherwise, the plant may begin to hurt or develop poorly.

To obtain a fertile harvest, you will need proper lighting, regular watering, and fertilization. For one bush, at least a three-liter volume of soil must be prepared. After planting, the plant is given time to take root and gain strength. Lighting should be at least 14 hours per day. In cloudy weather, additional lighting (fluorescent lamps, reflectors) will be required.

Despite the fact that the crop loves moisture, excessive dampness or stagnation of water is contraindicated for it. Watering should be regular, even, and the containers should be equipped with drainage holes. The plant is fed with complex fertilizers twice a month.

Having taken root, the culture will begin to grow a mustache. If there is no need for reproduction, then the mustache is carefully plucked off. When growing a plant in an apartment, it is recommended not to leave the mustache at all, then all the energy of the bush will be used for rooting and formation of berries.

Remontant strawberries in a greenhouse growing and caring

The procedure for cultivating a crop under greenhouse conditions is quite labor-intensive, but the reward is obtaining a fresh product whole year regardless of climatic conditions. When selecting varieties, you should establish what tasks are set before growing strawberries:

1. Using a greenhouse instead of traditional beds, you can plant almost any species. The main factor is productivity, the presence of immunity from diseases and pests.
2. For the sake of getting more early collection or cultivation after the onset of cold weather, varieties with special characteristics should be selected. For this case, “Clery”, “Kimberly”, “Mashenka” (early varieties) or “Elsanta”, “Vikoda”, “Festivalnaya” (late ripening varieties) are suitable.
3. If you want to receive harvest all year round, remontant varieties are used. “Queen Elizabeth”, “Albion”, “Source”, “Selva” give good results. These varieties are well adapted for cultivation indoors and respond positively to increased exploitation.

Informative! Those who want to build a business use the option of year-round cultivation. After all, in winter and early spring, the cost of the product reaches its maximum.

Modern gardeners have access to several cultivation technologies:

1. Using soil. This method does not require additional investments, but has a list of disadvantages. When using this method, it is important to carefully monitor the manifestation of the first signs of infection of the plant or soil with diseases and pests. And also isolate the contact of fruits with wet soil.
2. Using pots. The disadvantage of this method is the inability to receive collections all year round. The pots have a meager volume of soil, which is why it quickly loses its beneficial properties, and the plants have to be systematically replanted.
3. Using agrofibre or film. It is the most progressive method of culture breeding. The beds are covered with a specialized cloth, and the seedlings are planted in special holes. When using this method, the yield of any type increases, because a favorable microclimate is formed under the coating.

The quality and quantity of the harvest obtained depends entirely on the quality of the substrate in the beds. Therefore, the soil is prepared in advance. For the sake of the comfort of the seedlings, it is necessary to make the substrate light. A substrate made from whole garden soil, compost, and wood ash in equal proportions is considered universal. You can also mix in peat or pine sawdust, about 10% of the total amount of soil.

Remember! Before planting, the soil must be disinfected and a complex of fertilizers added.

Planting of planting material is carried out according to the already known scheme. If it is necessary to collect throughout the year, it is necessary to provide a system for the supply of seedlings. The most suitable version The beds will be divided into three groups:

• bearing fruit;
• growing up;
• young seedlings.

Key care is to maintain the required level of moisture (65-75%), ensure the required level of temperature indicators (about 28 degrees), and moderate timely watering.

Remontant strawberries at home using hydroponics growing and care

The technique involves cultivation without the use of the usual substrate (soil). Bred specifically for hydroponics artificial ground. The technique requires generous, frequent watering with a special solution made based on the natural needs of the plant.

Cultivation occurs on unnatural soils, where the root ball is located in a highly aerated water, moist-air, solid environment. Moreover, such a medium is porous, moisture- and air-intensive.

Important! Hydroponics allows you to obtain effective berry picking without any special financial and physical costs without losing the taste of the product.

Fruit-bearing species with high percentage productivity. For example: “Mount Everest”, “Fresco”, “Yellow Miracle”, “Generous”, “Olvia”, “Gigantela”, “Elvira”. These varieties showed excellent performance when grown using the method.

Using the technique, you can grow using several methods:

1. Drip irrigation system. Consists of planting sprouts in a special substrate, then feeding nutrient solution using droppers. As a substrate, it is permissible to use peat mixtures, coconut, and mineral wool.
2. Nutrient layer system N.F.T. Involves the supply of a nutrient solution using constant circulation of liquid through plastic box. The seedlings are placed in containers, the bottom of which is slightly raised above the nutrient layer.
3. By water culture method. Involves cultivation through aquatic environment. The seedlings are placed on foam floating in a nutrient solution. It has some disadvantages: lack of control over the supply of important components, possible problems with excess moisture.
4. Aeroponics. This method involves placing the seedlings not in a solution, but in a fog. The aerator is a fog generator. With this method, the plant receives more nutritional components.
5. Periodic flooding system. Great for growing a large number of bushes. It is a well-established permanent installation.
6. By deep water culture method. When using this method, the bushes have close contact with the liquid. It is not the most suitable option for growing strawberries, as problems arise with plant growth.

Know! The listed methods are considered the most effective and popular, but there are many more ways to grow crops hydroponically.

The complex technology process consists of several stages:

• choice of crop variety;
• use of artificial soil;
• preparation of a specialized nutrient solution close in characteristics to the requirements of the plant;
• assembling a plant for transporting the nutrient solution directly to the plants.
• The use of this technology also makes it possible to grow seedlings from seeds.

Features of growing and caring for remontant strawberries

Ampelous crops are famous for their ability to grow both in beds and in hanging containers. The culture is considered a climbing strawberry, forming quite large berries. The ampelous variety calmly reacts to a lack of lighting, which makes it suitable for breeding at home on balconies. Distinctive feature is the simultaneous fruiting of the bush and the plant's tendrils. At home, you can harvest even in December.

This species has certain planting specifics. A special substrate is prepared for breeding. Gravel, crushed stone or pebbles 0.1-0.15 m thick are placed on the bottom layer of containers. A mixture of manure, compost, and peat is poured on top. After filling the container, the substrate is well moistened. The sprouts are planted one at a time in a hole, gently pressed with a lump of soil.

Freshly planted shoots need abundant watering (about 3 times a day). Seedlings that have lived for two weeks (like adult bushes) are watered once every three days. During the dry season, watering is increased. For healthy growth and abundant harvest, regular fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers is carried out. At the end of fruiting, the foliage from the bushes is cut off, this is how the plant rejuvenates.

Interesting! The ampelous variety, in addition to being abundantly harvested, exhibits a decorative function. Thanks to its cultivation in hanging containers, it serves as an excellent decoration for the room.

Remontant strawberry Albion care and cultivation

The Albion variety is the most popular among gardeners. Along with other representatives of the genus, it produces a good harvest, the fruits are large, beautifully shaped, quite sweet and juicy.

A distinctive feature is resistance to diseases, pests, and climatic conditions. Tolerates frosts well, does not tolerate hot weather at all. At elevated temperatures, there is a lack of fruiting; with excessive moisture, the berries become tasteless. Requires sufficient sunlight. In the northern territory it produces half as much yield as in the southern regions.

Considering the duration of fruiting (until the first frost), it is recommended to grow it indoors. The soil for cultivation should be well fertilized with humus. Disease resistance eliminates the need for additional processing.
Planting is best done in the fall. Thanks to the first wintering, the opportunity to take root, the yield will exceed all expectations. The soil under the bushes is mulched with straw or sawdust. During the period of berry ripening, complex fertilizers can be applied.

Remember! The variety prefers free space. The distance between holes should be 30cm, between rows - 50cm.

Remontant strawberries care and cultivation in Siberia

The main problems of growing crops in Siberia are freezing in winter and damage to young seedlings by spring frosts. Breeders help cope with this problem by creating frost-resistant species.
Requirements for soil and growing areas are similar to warmer regions. The main point is the availability of sunlight, which in cold regions is sufficient during the summer season. It is important to place the beds away from buildings and trees.

An additional problem for growing in Siberia is the high snow cover. On cold winter nights it protects the plant from frost, but during the spring thaw it provides too much moisture, sometimes even washing out the beds.

A variety with fast growing season was bred especially for the northern territories. After all, in a short period of time, the plant must have time to organize itself, produce a harvest, and lay fruit buds for the next season. Such varieties require more serious care.

The following species have been bred for the territory of Siberia:

1. "Berdskaya". It has a sweet and sour taste. The northern regions germinate under film.
2. "Russian Darenka". A fairly productive species, adapted to sudden changes in temperature. Shows resistance to pests and fungal infections.
3. "Amulet". Has the ability to produce up to 2 kg of yield per bush. Practically resistant to diseases, survives well winter frosts. The berries have a rich sweet taste.
4. "Omsk early". The species was bred specifically for Siberia. The fruits are sweet and small in size, great for making jam and compotes.
5. "Chamomile". It bears large, sweet fruits that can withstand transportation well.

For your information! In areas with harsh climatic conditions, it is recommended to plant several varieties with different terms fruiting. If spring frosts injure early varieties, bushes with later fruiting will bear fruit.

Pests and diseases of remontant strawberries

Quite often the crop is affected by aphids. To destroy harmful insects, a special solution is used. Several heads of garlic are poured with cold water (3 liters) and left to steep for a week. Then the bushes are sprayed with this solution. This method is recognized as the most effective, environmentally friendly method of pest control.

The next dangerous pest is the strawberry mite. Insecticides are used to control pests. However, their use is permitted only after fruiting has ended. Particularly dangerous diseases are:

• powdery mildew - affects the foliage, which leads to curling and the appearance of a brown tint. Affected bushes must be removed, the remaining ones are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
• brown spot – leads to foliage turning brown; as the disease progresses, the foliage completely falls off. In order to prevent the disease in the spring (or after harvesting), the crop is treated with copper chloride;
• gray rot is a fungus that attacks bushes in wet weather. For treatment, treatment with copper chloride is used, and the affected fruits are removed.

Possible problems when growing remontant strawberries

The main prevention of diseases is the selection of resistant varieties. The spread of fungal infection can be caused by dense plantings and excess moisture.

Even the most proper care does not provide complete protection against plant damage by pests and various diseases. Diseases lead to depletion of bushes, and pests sometimes destroy even unripe crops. It is these factors that force gardeners to take all kinds of measures to preserve the harvest and destroy insects and pests.

Raspberries are one of the most favorite berries for all of us. Well, how can you not like her? Sweet with sourness and an unusual aroma. And if you don’t even have to go into the forest to get it, it’s worthless! Raspberry grown with my own hands, even tastier. But only with proper care and adherence to agricultural technology, raspberry bushes will be able to produce a large harvest.

Not all gardeners know how to properly transplant raspberries to a new location. But not only the harvest depends on this, but also the general condition, the health of the bushes, their fertility, etc. Let's try to figure out whether it is possible to replant raspberries in autumn period when exactly this can be done, how and under what conditions.

Gardeners believe that bushes of this berry can be replanted almost throughout three seasons of the year - spring, summer, autumn. Only in winter such events are not held. According to many experts, the best time is the end of summer, as well as autumn.

However, a large number adhere to different rules. Many people replant raspberries in the spring to avoid losses. After all, after transplantation, the plants become weak and it is more difficult for them to survive the cold season. Frosts can damage the bushes, resulting in loss of productivity, and even the plants themselves.

Based on all this, we can identify several simple rules for transplanting raspberries at different times.

• First, spring replanting helps the bushes to get stronger and take root before the onset of the next cold season. On bushes transplanted in the spring, within a year, basal shoots will have formed and replacement will begin.
• In summer, raspberries can be replanted only when the weather is suitable - not in extreme heat. At first, the bushes are shaded, protecting them from the fiery rays of the sun.
• But when replanting in autumn, the most important thing is to comply with the deadlines. If you do something wrong, you can destroy all the bushes that do not have time to take root and freeze completely.

One thing can be said for sure - no matter what time the raspberry bushes are planted or transplanted, the taste, color and aroma of their berries does not change at all.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to name the exact time for autumn transplantation of raspberry bushes. This is influenced various factors, the main of which can be considered:

• Berry variety;
• Climatic features of the region;
• Weather conditions of a particular year.

But approximate dates can still be given. First, you need to pay attention to the condition of the raspberries. By the time the bushes begin moving to a new location, it should be fully mature. There is one main indicator that the bushes are ready for transplanting. Replacement buds should already appear on the root collar. This happens just in time for the end of the season. On varieties with early ripening, such buds can be observed already in the middle of the first autumn month. But the late varieties are ready for transplanting in October.

Note! It is very important to complete all work on moving raspberries in the autumn before the onset of frost. In this case, frosts are allowed no earlier than 20 days after transplanting the bushes. This is the only way they can take root well and not suffer from the cold.

First of all, you need to prepare planting material. The success of the entire transplant “operation” depends on how correctly it is chosen. Most experts recommend choosing bushes that are not too large for autumn replanting. On the contrary, it is recommended to replant plants of medium thickness or thin ones. They should have only three stems developed, no more. It is necessary to ensure that the root system is fibrous and developed. Its length should reach 15 cm.

It is very important to thoroughly examine all the bushes for any signs of disease. Immediately before planting, all bushes must be shortened to the required length. The most suitable is about 35 cm, no more.

This is another factor that directly affects the development of bushes and their productivity. Let's start with the fact that raspberries are a heat-loving plant. Therefore, choose the area for it well. It should be quite sunny and light. You also need to choose a cozy place so that the wind does not interfere with the plants’ development. It is important to choose the right raspberry neighbors.

Experts emphasize: it should not be planted next to plants such as potatoes or tomatoes, fruit trees, as well as strawberries. And all because they suffer from the same diseases. If, for example, a bed of potatoes is damaged, then all other plants are at risk of becoming infected. You can plant raspberries on those plots of land where gooseberries, currants or vegetables, except those described above, previously grew.

As for the soil, drained, light loamy, fertile places are well suited for raspberries. The plant can also develop on sandy loams and sands. But for good growth, you will have to constantly fertilize the plant and water it more often.

Transplanting raspberries in the autumn requires good soil preparation. Another month or even a month and a half before the start of work on moving the bushes, it is necessary to select an area and begin to clean it. All weeds are eradicated, the earth is dug up.

At this time it is time to apply fertilizer. Compost or humus is excellent as such. For 1 m2 you will have to spend at least 10-30 kg of the substance. Superphosphates are also added, approximately 60-80 g each, and potassium sulfate (about 50 g). It is recommended to enrich peat areas with sand. At least 4 buckets are added per 1 m2.

How to plant raspberries correctly

The trench method is most suitable for transplanting ordinary raspberries. It involves preparing special oblong-shaped recesses. The depth of such trenches should be approximately 40-45 cm. They usually reach half a meter or a little more in width.

Harvested bushes are placed in each of the trenches. They need to be spaced about 40 cm apart. The distance between the trenches themselves should be approximately 1.5 m.

If fertilizers were not applied during digging, then they need to be added to the trench. If there is a fertile layer on top of the area, then we simply pour it into the bottom of the trenches as fertilizer. Already during the planting period, the trenches are sometimes fertilized with ash. But this is only allowed if the level of alkali in the soil is low.

Note! Nitrogen fertilizers are not used when transplanting raspberries. They can negatively affect plants, especially during wintering.

Before lowering the plants into the trench, it is recommended to moisten the roots in a solution of mullein and clay. Then the roots of the seedlings are covered with soil. The soil should cover them well, evenly. After this, all that remains is to water the plants, compact the soil around the bushes and mulch it.

Interesting! Some gardeners recommend placing trenches in a special way. Namely, to direct them from the northeast towards the southwest, or simply from the north to the south. In their opinion, in this way the sun's rays will be able to better reach the raspberry bushes, especially in the morning and before lunch.

It is recommended to plant such varieties in a different way - pit or bush. It also involves the premature preparation of recesses 40 cm deep and about 60 cm in diameter. About one and a half meters are also left between the rows. Plants must be placed every 70-100 cm.

We also add fertilizer or topsoil to the bottom. Next, everything is the same as when planting using the trench method: the soil under the bushes is compacted, watered, and mulched.

The first step after transplanting raspberries is to install trellises. The bushes need to be tied up so that they do not disappear. To do this, you can simply use wire, stretching it along the rows. But experts recommend planting 2 bushes every 70 cm. Thus, when tied to trellises, the sun will be able to hit them without obstacles.

In the absence of mulch, it is necessary to water the raspberries every 7-10 days and weed the rows. The first fertilizing can be done after the bushes begin to grow in height. Add 10 kg of diluted mullein per square meter. It is also possible to mulch with dry manure, which will seep through well with spring rains.

Just before the onset of cold weather, the bushes need to be watered and then pressed to the ground so that they can be covered with a snow globe and not freeze. You can use the same wire as for trellises.

It is important to pay attention to one point. Experts do not recommend replanting all raspberry bushes at once to a new location. This is especially true for those new to gardening. This risks losing all the bushes you have. It is better to move the plant in parts over several years or seasons. This way you can avoid big losses and choose the most convenient transplant method for yourself.

Transplanting raspberries is an important undertaking that is necessary for the plant itself. After all, bushes quickly deplete the soil, sucking out all the nutrients necessary for life. Therefore, transplanting to a new place after several seasons can be considered a forced agrotechnical measure. It is very important to remember that it is not recommended to grow raspberries in the same place for longer than 10 years. Moreover, it needs to be replanted even more often - after 5-7 years. This will allow you to maintain high yield or even improve it.

How to replant raspberries: video

As you can see, it is quite acceptable to transplant raspberries in the fall. But it is important to follow all the rules so as not to destroy your plants. Good care will help them survive cold winter and begin to develop with renewed vigor in a new place.

Beloved by many, raspberries are a very “voracious” shrub. The soil under it, even with regular fertilizing, is depleted in 5-8 years. The plant no longer has enough nutrients, which affects its condition and, of course, the quality and quantity of the harvest. Therefore, raspberries require regular replanting to a new location.

But this manipulation, simple at first glance, does not always bring the expected result, and the productivity of the culture not only does not increase, but sometimes even decreases. And sometimes the transplanted bushes simply die.

The reasons are known: non-compliance with transplantation technology, the wrong time for this, or lack of proper care for plants that have suffered a certain stress. After reading this article, you will be able to avoid such serious mistakes and save your raspberry plant.

If you listen to gardeners or read their opinions online, it turns out that you can’t replant raspberries only in winter, and all other seasons are suitable for this. Of course, this is not a general opinion, but the total result of all statements, since some consider spring to be the best time, others consider summer, others consider autumn.

In fact, when choosing the timing for transplantation, you need to take into account several factors, and among the main ones are the climatic features of the region and the type of planting material. And these can be not only adult bushes, but also replacement shoots or root suckers.

• If the climate in the area where raspberries are grown is mild, and the winters are short and not cold, the bushes can be replanted both in spring and autumn. In summer it is also possible, but hot weather they take root less well and require more careful care;
• when transplanting in the fall in a cold climate, the seedlings may not have time to take root well before the ground freezes, so it is advisable to do this in the spring;
• It is better to replant remontant raspberries in the spring using root suckers. It bears fruit until frost, and it is simply a pity to touch it during the fruiting period;
• It is recommended to transfer root shoots and shoots replacing ordinary raspberries in a continental climate to a new location in autumn or summer.

There is also a universal option, suitable for any climate and any form of seedlings: it is spring after all. That period when plants woke up and began to grow. In the middle zone this is mid-to-late April. When transplanting bushes, choose the strongest and healthiest annual shoots with a stem thickness of at least 8-10 mm, which have not yet bear fruit.

For reference. Root shoots are shoots that grow at some distance from the main bush from the buds of the root system. And replacement shoots grow close to the mother plant, forming from the buds of the main rhizome.

Root suckers are rarely used to replace the main plantings and only in case of poor survival of the main seedlings. Or they leave the strongest specimens in the row during autumn cutting, so that by the time of replanting the next season they have additional planting material.

Video - How and when to replant raspberries

Technology of transplantation and subsequent care

The optimal timing for transplanting raspberries does not guarantee a good result if you do not follow the rules for moving it to a new place of residence and do not provide proper care during the adaptation period.

How to replant

When choosing a new plantation for raspberries, give preference to those areas where legumes previously grew. A former potato field, beds of onions and tomatoes are also suitable. They should be well lit by the sun and protected from strong winds.

Note! Fresh humus, compost and especially unrotted manure can cause root burns in raspberries. Therefore, such organic matter must be covered with a layer of ordinary soil, and plants are planted on it.

Having dug up plants from the old site, the best ones are selected from them, with healthy and strong rhizomes, and the shoots are shortened to a height of no more than one meter. They are placed at the bottom of prepared holes or trenches and covered with earth, slightly deepening the root collar. At the same time, you can install pegs nearby so that the young seedlings have support for the first time.

All that remains is to water the plantings well, pouring a bucket of water under each bush, and mulch with chopped straw or other organic matter so that the moisture does not quickly evaporate from the soil, and the soil does not bake under the sun to form an airtight crust. In subsequent days, for better survival, it is recommended to spray the seedlings with warm water.

How to care

Even correctly transplanted to a suitable place and successfully established raspberries may not produce a bountiful harvest if you do not take care of them. What is required from a gardener to obtain a large number of healthy, large and tasty berries?

How to care	Description
	Raspberries are quite capricious in this regard: they love water, but from its excess and especially from stagnation in the soil, it begins to rot and get sick. Therefore, it is best to water it only in hot and dry times, but abundantly.
	Fertilization of the soil should be carried out annually in the fall, for which organic matter in the form of humus or compost, as well as ash and phosphorus-potassium mineral fertilizers are added under the bushes. Mulching is also recommended throughout the warm season. A layer of mulch on top protects the roots from overheating and the soil from drying out, and from below it rots and decomposes, supplying the soil with additional nutrients.
	Weeding and loosening help the soil remain breathable and rid the raspberries of unwanted neighbors who take away their nutrition. However, a constantly renewed layer of mulch will allow these operations to be performed extremely rarely.
	Tying the bushes to supports helps them to hold the weight of the fruit well and not bend or break under their weight or due to gusts of wind.
	In ordinary raspberry varieties, fruit-bearing two-year-old shoots are cut out in the fall, leaving only the strongest shoots current year. Remontant raspberries are cut out completely, as they bear fruit on annual shoots. In addition, to avoid thickening of plantings, all small shoots and excess, weak and diseased shoots are cut out.

Some varieties in cold climates also require insulation for the winter. Why are the bushes bent towards each other, tied and wrapped in non-woven material.

All of the above may seem complicated only at first glance. In fact, caring for raspberries does not take much time and does not require any special knowledge. Just a little attention - and she will thank you with a myriad of fragrant and sweet berries.

Video - How to replant raspberries

Yeast is considered a universal substance used in the beauty industry, cooking and even in agriculture. They are a main ingredient in many foods. Also have a good effect on the condition of facial skin and the growth of garden and indoor plants. ornamental crops. Therefore, they are often used as a yeast fertilizer for plants.

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