relevant because A cast iron bathtub is a very durable, if not eternal, thing. The same cannot be said about its coating, which wears out over time and spoils the appearance of the entire bathroom. What's the solution? Dismantling a cast iron bathtub is quite a labor-intensive and expensive task, which includes not only the cost of purchasing new bath, but also to update the tiles, which will most likely suffer in the process. In addition, most people know that a cast iron bathtub has a lot of advantages and it’s simply a shame to throw it away.
ANYTHING YOU NEED:
Fortunately, modern repair technologies make it possible to restore a cast-iron bathtub beyond recognition. To do this, you can use one of three options:
- Surface coating with enamel;
- Surface coating with acrylic;
Restoration of a cast iron bathtub with enamel
This method allows you to return the bathtub to its whiteness and shine, while saving the owners a considerable amount. All work can be done independently; no special skills are required. The main thing is thoroughness and accuracy.
The preparatory stage is very important, the purpose of which is to remove the old coating, clean out small cracks and rust. This is done using abrasive powder and sandpaper manually, or the process is accelerated with a drill with an abrasive wheel. After cleaning, the bath is thoroughly cleaned of all particles and dust, degreased and dried.
The enamel is applied to the prepared surface in a thin layer using a brush or roller. It is recommended to apply 2 to 4 layers. After complete drying, which requires at least 7 days, the bath will be ready for use.
The main and, perhaps, the only advantage of this method is its low cost. Enamel coating applied at home lasts no more than 5 years.
Restoration of a cast iron bathtub with liquid acrylic
Preparing a bathtub for acrylic coating follows the same procedure as for enamel coating. The surface must be matte, dry, grease-free and heated. The mixer is first removed and the drain and overflow holes are sealed. Acrylic is applied without the use of brushes or rollers, pouring it in a thin stream onto the sides of the bathtub and allowing it to flow freely down the walls. At the bottom, the material can be leveled with a spatula.
The advantages of acrylic over enamel are undeniable. Acrylic is more flexible, stronger and more durable. Its shine and whiteness delight residents for years. It is easy to clean even without any special products. Self-leveling acrylic dries many times faster than enamel, so the bathtub can be used in just 1-2 days. You can add a color to acrylic that matches the interior of the bathroom and make the bath a full-fledged part of the interior.
This method allows you to get a practically new acrylic bathtub, which will cost several times less. Its essence is that an acrylic insert made to the same dimensions is installed in an existing cast-iron bathtub. There are many ready-made liners sold in stores, but it is better to use the services of professionals who will take accurate measurements of your bathtub and carry out high-quality installation in compliance with technology.
The most important thing is to ensure a high-quality fit of the surfaces to each other and tightness. Otherwise, fungus may begin to develop under the liner. An experienced master will complete the work within 2-3 hours. After this, the bath needs to be filled with water for a day so that the liner is securely fixed.
Acrylic has established itself as a durable, strong, safe and beautiful material. An acrylic liner or coating will allow the bathtub to last for many more years if properly cared for. Enameling as a restoration method can be used in cases where the budget is very limited.
Restoration of a cast iron bathtub: which is better?
Restoring a cast iron bathtub is much easier and cheaper than replacing it with a new one. Applying a new top layer will delay the purchase of a new product and complete renovation bathroom. How long this period will be depends on the correct choice of material.
Enamel
Enamel attracts with its low cost, but this is precisely the case when momentary savings can result in even greater expenses in the future. The very modest service life of the enamel coating makes it financially very unprofitable.
It may seem logical to some that it would be better to re-enamel a cast-iron, once enameled bathtub. If we were talking about powder enamel, which is applied to the surface in industrial conditions, perhaps that would be the case. However, at home, bathtubs are coated with a completely different enamel composition, the service life of which cannot be compared with the industrial one.
Enamel paint cannot create a sufficiently dense and durable layer for the coating to be durable. Even minor household damage to the surface leads to chips and cracks, and rust and hard water salts will only contribute to its further destruction.
One of the features of enamel is its porous structure. No matter how diligently the owners take care of the bathroom, dirt still gradually fills the micropores of the surface, making it gray and dirty in appearance.
A fresh enamel coating looks very elegant: a snow-white bathtub with a bright glossy shine. Be careful, such beauty may be unsafe, because this surface is very slippery, especially when wet. When planning the restoration of a cast iron bathtub with enamel, you should think about all the residents. If among them there are those who, due to age or health reasons, find it difficult to coordinate their movements, it is better to refuse enameling.
Acrylic
Acrylic is universal material, which is suitable for the restoration of any bathtubs, including cast iron. Proper surface preparation ensures excellent adhesion and a strong, long-lasting coating.
The most important feature and main advantage of acrylic is its plasticity, which not only ensures ideal distribution of the material over the surface, but also makes it resistant to impacts, falling heavy blunt objects and other possible damage. Thanks to this strength, an acrylic coating can extend the service life of a cast iron bathtub for a period of 10 years, and during this entire time the product will have a presentable appearance.
Caring for acrylic coating is not difficult. The most important thing is no exposure to abrasive materials or aggressive household chemicals. Gentle cleaning soft cloth or a sponge with the addition of ordinary soap will be quite enough. Acrylic itself is hygienic because it is not a medium for the development of potentially dangerous microorganisms. With this coating you can forget about processing disinfectants- the bath will be clean and safe.
Coating a cast-iron bathtub with acrylic is a task that can easily be planned for the weekend and within 2 days you can use the updated product. This is possible due to the quick drying of the material and the simple application process.
When choosing a coating for a cast-iron bathtub, craftsmen who know modern repair techniques still recommend choosing restoration liquid acrylic. Thanks to it, the cast iron bathtub will last at least another 10 years, while remaining just as white and shiny. Enameling is a method that has become obsolete and does not meet modern requirements for safety, durability and quality.
Restoration of a cast iron bathtub reviews
Acrylic coating extends the life of cast iron bathtubs, which lose their aesthetic value over time appearance. The factory paint takes on a yellowish tint, the surface becomes rough, and there comes a time when you have to think about replacement or restoration. Covering the bathtub with acrylic or using a liner allows you to update an old product and extend its service life up to 15 years.
Covering the bathtub with acrylic.
Which acrylic to choose for the bathroom
The domestic market offers many products designed to restore cast iron bathtubs. The most popular: “Plastol”, “Standard” and “Stakryl”. These are two-component enamels costing up to 1,600 rubles, packaged in 3.5 kg packages (the quantity is calculated for a bowl 1.5 m long).
The product is applied to the walls of the sanitary ware, where it polymerizes and becomes hard. High-quality coating is done in 24 hours.
Each enamel manufacturer has its own technology, the secret of which is carefully guarded. Depending on the brand, the product contains a hardener or degreasing liquid. It is recommended to purchase products from trusted manufacturers whose products are of high quality:
- "Stakryl Ecolor";
- "Plastol";
- "Ekovanna";
- "YarLi."
Ecovanna brand products have proven themselves in the market. Developers who have technical laboratories at their disposal have experience in the production and sale of products. Unscrupulous competitors copy the products of these brands, producing inexpensive enamel that is vaguely similar to the original. Trying to save money, the consumer risks purchasing a low-quality product.
Acrylic bath liner
Acrylic liner Excellent for cast iron surfaces.The sanitary bowl is updated with an acrylic liner made from polymer acrylic. This restoration method has many advantages, since the bathtub does not need to be dismantled and can be restored in a few hours. The liner is affordable, it does not absorb dirt, is easy to clean, and does not rust. Thanks to this element, the bowl will look great for the next 10-15 years.
The acrylic liner retains heat, connects well to the cast iron surface and works like a double-glazed window. The liner is installed quickly, in a couple of hours, and the bath itself becomes suitable for use after 7 - 8 hours.
Restoration with liquid acrylic: the pros and cons of the method
One of the main advantages is the long service life of the bathtub. After updating, it can be used for more than 10 years. Acrylic is evenly distributed over the surface of the cast iron product because it is poured rather than applied with a brush. The product fills microscopic cracks, leveling the surface.
Restoration enamel is harmless to health and does not emit a strong odor. It dries quickly, so work is carried out in short time. But this restoration method has a drawback. To start using the bath again, you will have to wait 2 days. It is best to keep the bathroom closed during this time. Otherwise, dust particles settled on the drying layer of acrylic will ruin the appearance of the bathtub.
Most owners prefer baths white, but during the restoration process you can perform tinting by painting the bowl in any other color.
How to cover a bathtub with acrylic yourself
You can save a little money by filling the bath yourself. Before you begin, you should soberly assess your own skills. It would be nice if you already have experience in performing painting works. First you need to prepare the cast iron product, then cast it in layers. You need to work carefully, otherwise you won’t be able to get the coating. High Quality.
Step by step guide covering the bathtub with acrylic.
Materials and tools used
First of all, you need to make sure that acrylic and hardener have been purchased in sufficient quantities. To restore the bowl with your own hands you will need:
Solvent 647 for bath treatment.
- The device for mixing enamel is a plastic spatula with a blade width of 50 mm.
- Five sheets of sandpaper measuring 25 x 25 cm. It is recommended to buy waterproof sandpaper grade P 60.
- Solvent 647, which is used to treat the bathtub after sanding and washing.
- New spatula 10 cm wide.
- Adhesive tape 5 cm wide, two types: masking and plain.
- A medium-sized knife that will be needed for cutting tape and processing a cast iron bowl.
- Two types of screwdrivers: straight and Phillips.
- A stool on which you can mix ingredients.
Restoration is performed wearing a long-sleeved shirt, a respirator, latex gloves and a headdress. If the solution does get on the skin, it will not cause irritation, but wiping it off will be problematic. Hair should not fall on the treated surface at all stages of restoration.
Preparing the premises
To protect the floor and walls, use PVC film secured with tape. It is advisable that there is nothing in the room except a bowl. Therefore, it is recommended to remove all unnecessary and loose items, remove the shower curtain, and remove the crossbar. After this, you can begin preparing the bath.
PVC film is needed for treating walls and floors.
If the sinks or cabinet are located close to the bathtub, you need to move them away. Dust can enter from the rooms, so you need to isolate the ventilation using PVC film.
Cleaning a renovated bathtub
Before applying acrylic, you need to clean the bathtub.After preparing the room, clean the surface of the bowl using sandpaper or a drill equipped with a special attachment. Some restorers use a grinder with a grinding disc.
To perform manual sanding, you need to wrap it in a suitable size sandpaper. wooden beam, and then sand the surfaces. The treatment should not be too vigorous because the mixture will not hold if the surface becomes too smooth. Scratching the walls of the bowl is also not allowed.
If the bathtub was already painted before restoration, the enamel will need to be completely removed. The bathtub is cleaned with circular horizontal movements, removing an even layer, removing rust and forming a relief on the inner surface. Work especially carefully with the bottom.
After sanding, the surface should become rough, without signs of the factory coating. As a result of this treatment, liquid acrylic will be better fixed, and it will not have to be consumed in large quantities.
Washing and drying
To remove remaining dust, wash the bowl and tiles hot water. It is recommended to use a liquid product that does not contain abrasive particles. Enamel adheres better to a cleaned surface. After washing the bowl, you need to close the taps, remove the shower hose and take them to another room.
Washing and drying the bathtub before applying acrylic. Drops of water should not fall into the bath. Before applying acrylic, make sure that there is no water dripping from the tap. If there is still a leak, you need to turn off the water or wrap the faucet with tape, and then remove the drain and overflow. It is recommended to install a 1.5 liter container under the hole into which excess enamel will drain.
After this, wipe the bowl and nearby objects dry. It is advisable to use lint-free cotton fabric. If in hard to reach places There are any drops of water left, you can remove them with a hairdryer.
If drops of water remain in hard-to-reach places, it is recommended to dry them with a hairdryer.
Laying flooring and degreasing the bathtub
Degreasing the bath with baking soda.It is important to clean the surface of all objects remaining in the room as much as possible from dust. If the dust is not completely removed, it will rise during a draft and settle on the enamel, negating the efforts expended.
The surfaces are covered with newsprint or film, using tape for fixation. Then the cast iron surface is vacuumed and disinfected with baking soda or solvent.
Preparing liquid acrylic for application
Before mixing the enamel, you need to keep it in a warm place for 24 hours. The product takes well if the restoration is carried out at a temperature of + 25 degrees. If you plan to apply acrylic in a cool room, you need to warm up the mixture by placing it in a large container filled with hot water.
Acrylic must be mixed with a hardener.At the second stage, acrylic is mixed with a hardener. First, open a jar of enamel, stir for several minutes, and then add a hardener, which has the consistency of sour cream. Before adding the container with the hardener, shake it several times. Work with the hardener is carried out wearing protective gloves and observing safety precautions.
After combining the components, mix them with a wooden spatula. It is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, since some products need to be mixed for 10 minutes, while others need to be mixed for 15 minutes. Depending on the brand, acrylic is stirred in 1 or 2 steps.
Acrylic must be mixed with a wooden stick in a circular motion. Stir the acrylic in a circular motion, touching the walls and bottom of the jar. Should not appear on the surface air bubbles. Mixer and others similar devices do not apply.
Casting acrylic enamel into a bathtub
Bathtub enamel.After mixing is completed, you should immediately begin enameling. If the mixture is exposed to air for 30 minutes, it will become unsuitable for pouring.
Acrylic is poured into the bathtub not from a bucket, but from a small one plastic container. It is recommended to cut a 1.5 liter plastic bottle in half and wipe it with a rag. The acrylic container must be completely dry. The bucket and cut bottle are placed on a stool.
Sides
You need to start pouring acrylic on the left along the edge, gradually moving to the right. The enamel should cover the sides. It is poured onto these parts of the cast iron bowl once, adding acrylic to the container as needed. It is important to be careful not to pour enamel into large quantities, otherwise it will spill onto the floor. The remaining voids must be filled with a spatula.
The enamel must cover the sides.Walls
These parts of the bowl are coated in 2 stages. First, the enamel is poured from the edge of the back, where the acrylic layer does not flow so quickly. Then pour from the level to which the composition was drained when first poured. Once the mixture completely covers the back of the bowl, you will need to distribute it evenly across the bottom.
In the second stage of casting, the composition must be applied from the level to which it drained during the first pour.Repairing bald spots
If you find areas that are not completely sealed, you need to collect a small amount of enamel from the bottom and cover the untreated surfaces with a spatula. It will be necessary to inspect the walls and identify errors. In some places there may be drips that can be removed with a spatula.
If bald spots become noticeable after acrylic coating, you need to repair them with a spatula. Bottom coating
A thick layer of enamel forms at the bottom, which is evenly distributed with a spatula and left. The coating will level itself. Drops remaining on the sides are removed with a spatula.
The acrylic on the bottom of the bathtub must be evenly distributed with a spatula. How to dry a free-flowing bathtub
Over time, the coating becomes hard. If defects are detected, you should wait until polymerization is completed, which lasts 48 hours, and then use the factory repair kit. The mixture must be removed from the floor immediately, otherwise it will be difficult to remove. The bathroom should be closed for 2 days to prevent dust and small debris from getting onto the surface of the drying bowl.
It's time to install the harness
Installation of drain and overflow.Acrylic dries in 48 hours. After this time, it will be necessary to install a drain-overflow piping. Before starting work, you should remove the storage tank intended for draining enamel. To remove drips you need to use a knife. It is recommended to check the suitability of the gaskets on the harness. If they become less flexible, they should be treated with sealant.
You will need to install the drain and overflow, put the drain pipe in its original position, connect the piping, release the faucet from the film and open the water. The drain should not leak. After such procedures, the bath will be ready for use.
To keep the bowl white and smooth for a long time, you should choose a neutral cleaning agent to care for it.
Fake poured acrylic
The Stakril company has been producing products for several years with a label of the same design. This means that any product whose label is similar to the Stakryl label is a fake.
Responsible manufacturers who have proven themselves in the market are trying to improve the quality of their products. But unscrupulous competitors use tricks to lure customers. For example, they can buy up products, bottle them again and sell them under a fictitious brand. After some time, when the brand becomes famous, products begin to be made from low-quality raw materials.
Some scammers buy a product with a hardener in large quantities and dilute it with a solvent. This enamel is less durable; it cracks after a couple of months after the bath starts using. In this case, you have to call a repairman and carry out the restoration work again.
Unscrupulous manufacturers dilute acrylic with a solvent and get more products, but their quality deteriorates sharply. This acrylic does not adhere well to the surface of the bowl. Similar counterfeits are sold in all regions of Russia. The label on such a bottle is of the wrong color, and the bottle itself is made of second-grade plastic.
Some small firms also produce their own goods using cheap raw materials. This acrylic costs about the same: 1400 - 1600 rubles. But such inexpensive products are not suitable for bathtub restoration.
Before buying enamel, it is recommended to study the history of the brand. Large companies “Stakryl Ecolor”, “Plastol”, “Ekovanna” and “YarLi”, operating on the market for several years, have long won the trust of consumers. They produce the best pourable acrylic. Their products are of high quality; acrylic of these brands is resistant to cracking and yellowing. Downside Their popularity is due to the fact that the enamels of these brands are most often counterfeited.
The labels of genuine products are evenly colored, glued evenly, do not have blisters, and the lids are always marked. The containers themselves are made of high quality PVC, which has a rich color. The buyer should also pay attention to the seal located on the surface of the lid. If the integrity of the seal is broken, such acrylic cannot be used.
A good restoration product has markings on the lid made using laser lithography. Enamels “Ekovanna” and “Stakryl” are produced with adhesive labels on the lids. It is important to pay attention to all packaging details, which should be the same as on the manufacturer’s website. The bottle of genuine acrylic always has the brand logo on it.
It’s no wonder that cast iron bathtubs are extremely popular among buyers. Even though the market is filled with acrylic and steel taxes, cast iron models not only do not go out of fashion, but are also strengthening their position. The reason for this demand is quite simple - a cast iron bathtub is durable, and at the same time it retains heat well. However, over time, the coating of a cast iron bathtub wears out and chips, stains and cracks appear on it. In such a situation, there can only be two options for solving the problem - restoring the enamel on a cast-iron bathtub or buying a new one.
If we talk about purchasing, then it is worth considering a number of points that significantly affect the price of the issue, namely:
- in addition to the cost of a new bathtub, the dismantling of the old model and its disposal should be taken into account;
- the costs of delivery, transportation and loading of the purchased bath significantly increase its final cost;
- restoration of cast iron bathtubs allows you to avoid such issues as installation and connection, because when restoring the enamel you will not have to overpay for installation and dismantling.
Restoration of cast iron bathtubs
If you are not used to wasting money and time, you will certainly be interested in such a service as restoring cast iron bathtubs. Modern technologies And innovative materials They allow you to quickly return the bathtub to its radiant appearance and presentability without any special expenses.
Our advantages
High-quality materials from Germany direct from the manufacturer
The material is non-toxic, odorless! Hardening - 20 hours
We work without prepayment, under a contract. Responsible approach
Experienced craftsmen. We have been restoring bathtubs for over 10 years
Warranty up to 5 years! Material service life 15 years
Prompt order fulfillment. Technical support
Price for restoration of cast iron bathtubs
Bath 120 cm.
- German quality.
- Drying time: 20 hours.
- Service life 15 years!
RUB 3,800
3,500 rub.
Bath 150 cm.
- German quality.
- Drying time: 20 hours.
- Service life 15 years!
4,000 rub.
3,700 rub.
Bath 170 cm.
- German quality.
- Drying time: 20 hours.
- Service life 15 years!
4,200 rub.
RUB 3,900
Restoring enamel on a cast iron bathtub
Restoration of cast iron bathtubs in Moscow is one of the services offered by our company. Even if your bathtub has completely lost its original appearance, do not rush to look for a replacement. Unique technology restoring the enamel on a cast iron bathtub will transform it, eliminating the need for an expensive purchase.
By contacting us, you can be sure that:
- all work on restoring a cast iron bathtub will be carried out high level;
- You will be provided with a guarantee for all types of services provided;
- the quality of work will not cause any complaints;
- the cost of restoration will not hit your pocket.
Call us and make sure that restoring the enamel on your bathtub is quick, simple and very profitable!
Additional services
| Name of service | Price |
| Installing an acrylic baseboard on the side of a bathtub | 1300 rub. |
| Installing our screen under a bathtub on an aluminum frame (regardless of the length of the bathtub) | 2200 rub. |
| Installation of a new siphon (re-visit of the technician 24 hours after drying. New siphon, corrugations, cuffs, connection + warranty) | 1250 rub. |
| Installation of acrylic liner 150 cm. | 4000 rub. |
| Installation of acrylic liner 170 cm. | 4200 rub. |
| Call a measurer for consultation and correct measurement baths | 500 rub. |
| Retaining the old piping (siphon), replacing only the drain grate with a new one | 150 rub. |
| Dismantling old cast iron trim | 400-600 rub. |
| Removing the plastic trim | For free |
| Cleaning non-factory enamel | from 400 to 800 rub. |
| Color color | 400 rub. |
| Removing chips on a bathtub | 150 rub. |
Any, even the most reliable and quality bath, over time may become covered with cracks and roughness, turn yellow or rust. It is almost impossible to avoid this - even the mildest detergents and household chemicals lead to thinning and wear of the surface coating. In this case, the bath owner is faced with the question of purchasing and installing a new bowl. However, this is a rather expensive solution, which, moreover, entails the need for repairs to the premises. Therefore, it is better to restore the bathtub - it will not require high costs, and the work can be done independently.
There are three main methods that allow you to restore the appearance of old plumbing: applying a new enamel coating, restoration with self-leveling acrylic and using a special liner. It is better to choose a specific method taking into account your own financial capabilities, the materials from which the bowl is made, as well as its condition.
In addition, it should be taken into account that such a solution has a number of disadvantages, since a bowl with a new coating will not have the same performance characteristics as one that was manufactured in an industrial environment.
- The materials that are used to restore plumbing fixtures are less durable and not as strong, so the surface requires more careful and gentle care.
- When enameling a bathtub or restoring it using liquid acrylic, you may encounter the following problem: the original color of the bowl will shine through the new coating (especially if the layer is too thin), changing its shade.
- During use and cleaning, the color of the bathtub may change under the influence of chemicals.
- Sharp or bulky objects will cause damage to the new covering even if they fall from small height, and dyes (such as hair dyes) may leave permanent stains.
- Those who like to smoke in the bathroom will have to give up their habit, as a cigarette can leave an unsightly burn on the surface.
However, restored plumbing fixtures are repairable, and their properties directly depend on the quality of materials and the accuracy of the work.
Despite the growing popularity of modern polymer compositions, steel and cast iron plumbing fixtures with enamel coating are often found in modern houses and apartments. The metal is strong and reliable material, but the enamel coating wears out quite quickly. Restoring an enamel coating is a fairly simple process that does not require special knowledge or skills.
True, this method of restoring the appearance of bathtubs has one significant drawback. Cracks that appear on the surface grow very quickly, the enamel begins to peel off, water accumulates under it, which leads to the appearance unpleasant odor, dampness and mold. In addition, this method is not suitable for bathtubs with a large number of small defects - they can be noticeable even after applying the coating.
How to choose a composition for restoring enamel?
In order for the new coating to be strong and reliable, you need to choose a composition for restoring bathtubs. There are not many options, so to make the right choice you need to know the basic characteristics and properties of the compositions.
| Name | Manufacturer | Durability of the coating | Features of work |
|---|---|---|---|
| Russia, Germany | On average 5 years (subject to the conditions of application and operation, the figure can reach 7-9 years) | A two-component enamel with a hardener that hardens completely in 48 hours. Fills all minor defects of the bathtub surface well. It is quite difficult to work with the solution, since it is very thick and “sets” in about 60 minutes | |
| Russia | 6-8 years | Two-component solution with epoxy resin. It can be used when there are no noticeable defects or damage on the bathroom. Requires quick work as it hardens in about 70 minutes. In liquid form it is toxic and can cause allergies | |
| Tikkurila Company (Russia, Finland) | 10-15 years | One of the highest quality but most expensive compounds for restoring plumbing fixtures. Working with the solution is quite simple, but the bath will be able to be used for its intended purpose in at least a week | |
| Random House Company, Russia | 6-8 years | Bathtub restoration kits, which include a two-component bowl coating, hardener and surface preparation products |
reflex 50
Step-by-step instructions for restoring a bathtub with enamel
Stage one. Preparation of available tools and materials
To enamel baths you will need the following tools:
The enamel that will be used to restore the bathtub must come complete with all the necessary components. To give the coating the desired shade, you can purchase a special tinting paste (unless prohibited by the manufacturer). In addition, it is very important to protect your mouth and nose with a respirator, your hands with gloves, and carry out all work only in a well-ventilated or ventilated area.
Stage two. Preparation for applying enamel coating
Before you start enameling the bowl, you need to thoroughly clean the surface, since the quality and aesthetic appearance of the coating depends on this.
| Step, no. | Description |
|---|---|
| Sprinkle the bathtub with an abrasive agent and clean it with coarse sandpaper. You can also use sanding attachment electric drill, as well as remove old enamel by sandblasting or hydrochloric acid, diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 4. | |
| Areas where there are rust spots, treat with a rust converter, wait 30 minutes and sand well. If there are deep cracks or chips on the surface, it is better to use automotive putty - there is a risk that the composition will not be able to fill them, and the enamel layer will turn out uneven | |
| Remove any remaining old coating and wipe the bath well using a rag or lint-free cloth. | |
| Fill the bowl with hot water, leave it for 10 minutes to warm the surface, drain the liquid and dry the surface. Make sure there are no crumbs, lint or debris left on the bathtub. |
The preparation of the bath must be done in exactly this sequence, without skipping a single step, otherwise the enamel will quickly come off. As clean as possible smooth surface bathtubs are a guarantee that the new coating will be durable and reliable.
Stage three. Application of enamel coating
Combine all enamel components as indicated in the instructions, mix the composition well. Divide it into two parts - for the basic and finishing coating. Apply the first layer with a wide brush - it should be thin, but as even as possible, without changes. It is better to start from the edges of the bowl, gradually moving down. The composition must be spread very well so that it fills all the pores of the material. After applying the first layer, you need to leave it for 10-15 minutes, but you shouldn’t wait until it dries completely, otherwise the enamel may become dusty, and then the work will be ruined. Next, apply a second layer with the same brush, the direction of the strokes is from the middle to the edges. Leave the bath for another 15 minutes and eliminate defects (even experienced craftsmen have them), using the brush in the same way. You can perform this procedure until the enamel becomes too viscous.
Sometimes containers with a spray bottle are used to apply the mixture, but experts recommend avoiding this method, as bubbles and streaks may appear on the surface, causing the enamel to peel off. Instead of a spray bottle, it is better to use a compressor - it will allow you to evenly distribute the composition over the walls of the bath and create a coating of the same thickness.
It is better not to use the bath for a week - this is exactly how long it takes for the enamel to completely harden. The room temperature should be maintained at 23 degrees.
Video - restoration of a bathtub using the enameling method
Method number 2. Filling bath
This method of restoring plumbing consists of the following: liquid acrylic is poured into a bowl, which subsequently hardens and forms a new coating. Compared to surface enameling, which is described above, it has a number of advantages.
- Acrylic is a thick and viscous substance, thanks to which it lays on the surface in a thick, even layer, hiding all the defects and unevenness of the bathtub.
- The composition does not leave smudges, streaks or bubbles on the surface.
- To restore the bathtub, you do not need to remove the tiles or dismantle the bowl.
- The process takes less time than enameling or restoration using an inlay.
- Acrylic creates a film on the surface that repels dirt and plaque.
- Applying the mixture does not require special knowledge and skills.
- Most materials used for bathtub restoration have virtually no unpleasant odor.
The result of this restoration method will be a smooth, glossy surface that perfectly retains heat and does not retain dirt. As with enameling a bathtub, before you begin, you need to think about the choice of material. It is important to note that neither for the sake of economy nor for any other purpose can you use ordinary acrylic, which is sold in hardware stores, for the restoration of bathtubs. According to its characteristics, it differs from sanitary acrylic, which is used specifically for the restoration of plumbing fixtures, so you can completely ruin the bathtub and harm your health. The choice in this case is made between glass and liquid acrylic.
Glass or liquid acrylic?
Today, two types of materials are used for the restoration of bathtubs: glass acrylic and poured acrylic (the market leader in the production of such materials is the Plastall company, which is why liquid acrylic is often called plastol). Many consumers believe that they are no different from each other, but in fact this is not the case.
Stakryl appeared in stores about 10 years ago and has already proven itself well. It fits well on any surface and is cheaper than plastol, however, restoring bathtubs with its help can be quite difficult for beginners, since the composition sets quite quickly. Working with plastol is much easier, since it is less demanding to use and does not have a pungent odor. In addition, this material retains its properties even after freezing.
The Plastall company offers consumers who want to restore their bathtubs themselves a whole line of materials.
| Name | Drying time | Peculiarities |
|---|---|---|
| "Plastol" classic | 36-48 hours | An easy-to-work material that spreads well, has increased ductility and good adhesion. It has no pungent odor, does not require the addition of thinners or other substances, and forms a smooth and fade-resistant film. The mixture retains its properties for 90 minutes |
| "Plastol-24" | 24 hours | A new material based on an improved classic formula. Applied in one layer, the surface does not turn yellow, does not crack or peel, and is resistant to mechanical damage and abrasion |
| "Plastol-M" | 36-48 hours | A budget solution with an optimized formula, so the result of using the material is no different from restoring bathtubs using more expensive products. Does not have a strong odor, does not cause allergies, the mixture retains its characteristics for 90 minutes |
| "Plastol-Super" | 16 hours | The “fastest” liquid acrylic that hardens in a matter of hours. Does not form bubbles or streaks, does not require the addition of solvents or other components, but the mixture is “viable” for only 45 minutes |
When choosing a material, it is important to pay attention to the price - a good product cannot cost less than what is indicated on the manufacturer’s website, and counterfeits do not provide required quality finished coating. For those who do not yet have experience in restoring bathtubs, it is recommended to buy acrylic with a reserve so that it is enough to cover the entire surface.
Step-by-step instructions for restoring bathtubs with self-leveling acrylic
Stage one. Preparing to pour acrylic
Surface preparation for restoration is practically no different from preparatory stage when enameling a bathtub. You need to clean off the old coating and sand the bowl so that its surface becomes matte, warm it up and dry it. After this, you need to disconnect the siphon designed to drain water and place a container under the bathtub into which excess acrylic will drain (the material must be avoided getting into the sewer - this can lead to serious problems with water drainage).
Stage two. Filling a bathtub with acrylic
Prepare the mixture as indicated in the instructions, pour it into a convenient container and place a rubber spatula nearby. If you need a material of a specific color, you can use a tinting paste, but first make sure that this is allowed by the manufacturer. Its amount should not exceed 3% of the total volume of acrylic.
Take a container with acrylic and pour the composition in a thin stream onto the sides of the bowl, pushing it with a spatula under the edges of the tile. There is no need to pour too quickly and forcefully - you need to act so that you get a layer 4-6 mm thick, and the material slowly flows down to about the middle.
Move the container evenly around the perimeter of the bowl, without taking long breaks, until the circle is closed.
Move the jet closer to the middle of the bath and do the same to cover the entire surface. You should not try to smooth out streaks or unevenness - this will only worsen the situation, and all defects will disappear during the drying process. The time for complete hardening of the acrylic is indicated in the instructions, but it is better not to use the bathtub for three days.
During the entire period while the material dries, it is better not to touch the bathtub or even get close to it, since the entry of the slightest particles of dust or debris can spoil the appearance of the restored plumbing fixtures.
Video - Instructions for restoring bathtubs with Stakryl
Method No. 3. Restoration using an inlay
Restoring bathtubs using acrylic liners is also called the “bath-to-bath” method. The liner is a structure made of acrylic, plastic or silicone, which represents exact copy bowls. You can buy it in a specialized store, having done everything first necessary measurements baths, and then glue them to the old bowl.
The most popular today are acrylic inserts - they are much more aesthetically pleasing and durable than plastic or silicone ones. This design is ideal for old bathtubs that cannot be restored with a new layer of enamel or liquid acrylic. In addition, the surface of the liners retains heat perfectly, its surface is absolutely smooth, but at the same time does not slip at all.
This is the most reliable way to restore a bathtub (the service life of a high-quality acrylic liner is approximately 15-20 years) and, contrary to popular belief, it does not reduce inner space bathroom
However, this method of bathtub restoration also has its drawbacks.
- Difficult to install. Installation of an acrylic liner is quite complex and labor-intensive process. The liner is placed so that it covers the edges of the bathtub, and if the bowl is installed close to the wall, you will have to additionally remove the side and break the tiles.
- Possibility of water getting between two baths. If the installation was performed incorrectly, or due to wear and tear or the use of poor-quality materials, water may get between the liner and the bottom of the bowl. This will lead to dampness, mold and an unpleasant odor.
- Inconveniences during operation. Sometimes manufacturers make liners that are too thin, which is why they can sag underfoot and eventually become deformed or burst.
- Inserts are made for standard bathtubs only. As a rule, bathtubs are divided into two types - 1.5 m and 1.7 m, and if the bowl has non-standard sizes or shape, choosing an insert will be very difficult, and sometimes impossible.
- Quite a high cost. Compared to new ones acrylic bathtubs The liners are inexpensive, but for this price you can buy a new steel bathtub.
How to choose an insert?
To avoid making mistakes when purchasing an insert, you need to take the following measurements:
- the width of the bowl along the inner surface, and measurements should be taken on both sides;
- length along the inner and outer surfaces;
- depth of the bowl at the drainage point.
To avoid making a mistake that will entail hassle and additional costs, you can invite a professional measurer.
How to choose a bath liner
It should be noted that most modern stores sell products with a thickness of 3 and sometimes 2 mm - such liners are very short-lived, and it is not recommended to use them for the restoration of bathtubs. IN best case scenario the structure will last about 5 years, after which it will have to be dismantled and replaced.
Step-by-step instructions for restoring a bathtub with a liner
Stage one. Preparing the bath and available products
To install acrylic liners, polyurethane foam and silicone sealant. It should be noted that to perform the work you need to use only tools specifically designed for these purposes. Simple foam that is used in repair work, in this case will not work - it has a low density and expands too much. To improve these characteristics, additional components are added to the foam - this is the material used for installing acrylic liners. In addition, in this case, a plumbing sealant is used, which is waterproof and mold resistant.
Preparing a bathtub for restoration with a liner– a rather long and labor-intensive process, which, in the absence of appropriate skills, is best left to specialists.
Stage two. Installing the liner
The basic rule that should be remembered when installing an acrylic liner is that all work should be done quickly enough (in about 4-5 minutes), otherwise the adhesive composition will harden and will not “grab” the materials well.
| Step, no. | Description |
|---|---|
| Apply to the bottom and sides of the bathtub polyurethane foam. Its quantity also depends on the tightness of the structure, but usually it is applied in stripes with an interval of 4-5 cm, and on the sides the stripes should be vertical and stretch from the bottom to the very top | |
| Install liner | |
| It’s good to press down the sides of the liner with your hands, then stand with your bare feet in the place where the drain is located and move towards the opposite edge - this way the liner will fall into place and press firmly against the surface of the bowl. After this, press down the walls of the structure well with your hands. It is not recommended to put pressure on the liner with any hard objects or hit it, otherwise you can damage the acrylic during the installation process |
One of the most important advantages of cast iron baths is their durability. Such plumbing can serve faithfully for several decades, maintaining specifications. However, over time, the bath may lose its original whiteness.
Agree, not everyone is ready to get rid of high-quality cast iron in favor of plastic or steel counterparts. Alternative solution– restoration of a bathtub with liquid acrylic at home. The work is simple, but requires compliance with some nuances.
We will tell you how to choose high-quality acrylic for a bathtub, identify manufacturers you can trust, and also describe in detail the sequence of updating old plumbing fixtures. The information provided will help home craftsmen restore the former gloss of the coating and extend the service life of the font.
First, let's understand the terms. The domestic market for acrylic products designed to restore the bowl of a well-used bathtub is full of brands. "Plastol", "Yarli", "Standard", "Stakryl", Finnacryl and even "Eco-enamel"- there are many names.
All enamels are two-component, approximately similar in price - 1400-1500 rubles. for a 3.4 kg jar, which is enough to cover a one and a half meter container with acrylic.
Everyone paint and varnish materials“liquid acrylic” group, incl. Each brand listed above carries out bathtub restoration. The walls of the sanitary bowl are poured with two-component acrylic, which polymerizes and hardens, turning into a smooth and durable coating within a day.
The self-leveling bath is not a commercial product, but a painting technology. It consists of pouring a new paint coating over the existing worn-out layer of paint. Manufacturers are developing their own acrylic-enamel series of restoration materials for bathtubs, the formulas of which are carefully hidden from competing enterprises.
Among masters who restore bathtub containers and their clients, liquid acrylic of any brand is usually called glass acrylic. Although “Stakril” is a brand of the St. Petersburg enterprise “Ekolor”, popular rumor assigns the name of its brand to all liquid acrylic compositions.
The usual kit with liquid acrylic comes with a bottle of hardener. Some manufacturers offer
set of three products – liquid acrylic, hardener and degreaser
The reason is simple: "Stakryl" was the first widely advertised polymer material for bathroom restoration, which is why it has become a household name for liquid acrylics in general. The technically correct name for bath paints on acrylic base is “self-leveling acrylic”.
Therefore, when choosing an acrylic bathroom paint, you need to name a specific brand of product, and not “you have acrylic.”
Now about the quality. Manufacturers of bulk acrylics LLC "Ekolor" (brand "Stakril"), LLC "Plastol", LLC "Ekovanna" and CJSC NPK "YarLi" (brand "Yarli") are the largest enterprises in Russia.
It is their products that are recognized as the highest quality on the domestic market. To independently repair the enamel coating of a bathroom, you should choose one of the mentioned brands.
In addition to having their own technical laboratories, many years of experience in the production and distribution of products throughout Russia, the products of all four listed manufacturers of self-leveling acrylic have one more advantage - they are trying to imitate it.
On the one hand, this is a plus, because it makes no sense to produce counterfeits under a bad brand and product. However, there is also an obvious disadvantage - the likelihood of purchasing a low-quality product.
The manufacturing company of Stakril has not changed the design of its packaging for many years. Therefore, any other colors on
acrylic containers mean only one thing - fake
Fake poured acrylic
There are more and more homeowners interested in restoring bathtub enamel every year. Following the growing demand, manufacturers of self-leveling acrylic are expanding production and improving a series of acrylic enamels for plumbing equipment. But a variety of types of “entrepreneurs” strive to make money from this paintwork.
First type: small companies, intending to occupy a niche in the local market. Before reaching consumers with liquid acrylic of their production, they buy the products large companies wholesale, bottled in their own containers and sold under their own brand.
Having attracted buyers to the “new product” after several months of sales, such companies begin to bottle not other people’s products, but their own. Without sufficient funds and equipment, these companies develop acrylic technologies with “optimal characteristics”, using raw materials from dubious suppliers.
Second type: similar enterprises also purchase large quantities of liquid acrylic with hardener from famous manufacturers, but only in the original container with a label.
Next, each container is opened, a portion of the product is poured out and the solvent is added. Diluted acrylic is taken to the market and sold under the guise of the original product.
If liquid acrylic is diluted with a solvent, its performance characteristics will sharply decrease. This coating does not adhere well to the bathtub; it is too liquid and brittle. After a short period of time, the painted bathtub turns yellow and the enamel peels off. Please note that liquid acrylic cannot be diluted with anything other than the included hardener.
This counterfeit can be easily recognized by the incorrect color of the label and the low-quality plastic from which its container is made. Similar “products” regularly appear in different regions Russia
Third type: a small enterprise purchases several containers of liquid acrylic from well-known brands and tries to copy them. Having developed a very approximate formula and technological process, this company purchases the cheapest possible raw materials. The production of products with bright labels and names begins.
The manufacturer does not make any attempts to popularize a specific product brand, because The product is of low quality and soon there will be no buyers for it. However, the company often changes the shape of the containers and the name of the product, thereby restarting its sales again and again. Such liquid acrylic cannot be called high-quality, only cheap.
Nikolay Fedorenko
Improving the formula, improving technological process The largest domestic producers have been producing liquid acrylic for over five to eight years each. Only their products can last as long as possible, are odorless and resistant to yellowing. Therefore, it is necessary to choose enamels from large enterprises for bath repairs.
Nikolay Fedorenko Expert in the field of arrangement sewer systems and water supply systems
In regional markets of Russia, counterfeits of acrylic enamels most often appear "Stakryl", "Ekovanna" And "Plastol". To interfere with imitators, manufacturers of these brands periodically change the color design and shape of cans with liquid acrylic and a hardener.
You can find out the actual type of the brand you are interested in by visiting the manufacturer’s website and studying the product description page.
However, the goods are distributed differently in different regions - some batches are sold out for months. Within the factory warranty period and subject to proper storage procedures, packaged liquid acrylic is completely suitable for use.
Let's assume that you are offered a brand product, say, "Plastol" - the expiration date is fine, but the bucket is designed in an outdated design of the manufacturer. The seller explains: the batch of acrylic arrived before the Plastol company changed the design of the cans, but otherwise the product is original.
Inspect the bucket of acrylic and the bottle of hardener:
- Marking on the lid. Plastol prints the batch number on the lids of the cans using laser lithography. Manufacturers of “Ekovanna” and “Stakril” mark the lids with adhesive labels with the batch number printed on them. There should be no other labels on the lids.
- Cap color. Be sure to make sure that the color of the caps on the jar and bottle matches the image of the product on the manufacturer’s website.
- Brand logo. Labels on the sides of cans and bottles must contain the actual manufacturer's logo;
- The correctness of the sticker. Labels on the sides of acrylic cans and on solvent bottles are applied by the original manufacturer using in-line machine adhesive. Distortions and crumpled areas mean that the label was affixed by hand and is a fake;
- Integrity of the filling. The plastic fuse on the caps of the bottle with hardener and the jar of liquid acrylic must be intact (not broken).
The caps of bottles containing liquid hardener are usually signed with a marker when releasing a batch - this is normal. There is not enough space on the bottle cap to fully print or place a label.
Additional information about the types of self-leveling acrylic, as well as tips for choosing restoration enamel, are given in the articles:
Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration
Restoring the enamel coating of a bathtub bowl yourself will save you an average of 1,200-1,700 rubles (that’s what craftsmen charge). However, you need to evaluate your skills before starting work: a minimum of experience in assembling plumbing fixtures and performing painting work is essential.
The process of preparing the bath and casting a new coating requires care, otherwise long-term quality cannot be achieved.
Materials and tools used
So, you have purchased a sufficient amount of liquid acrylic and hardener. Please note: volume required acrylic enamel, which will be enough to decorate your bathroom. Soviet-made models have a length of 1400-1700 mm, European products are made with maximum length at 1800 mm.
All required tools and protective equipment must be prepared before starting work on the “fill bath”.
Carefully evaluate your readiness for work. At the stripping stage, stopping work is still permissible, but after
You can’t stop mixing acrylic with hardener
Manufacturers indicate on containers with liquid acrylic the length of the bath for which the calibrated volume of material is calculated. Measure the length of the bowl along its center, from the edge of one side to the edge of the other. If your object of work is longer than the size indicated on the jar of acrylic, you need to buy more material. It is important.
For enameling using the “fill bath” technology, the following tools and materials are needed:
- Kneading device. When manually mixing acrylic with hardener and color, you will need a wooden or plastic spatula - blade width 40-60 mm, handle length 500-600 mm. Mixing with a drill and mixer should not be done, only by hand.
- Sandpaper- 5 pieces. (230*280 mm). You need sandpaper grade P60 (according to ISO-6344) or 25-H (according to GOST 3647-80) for tissue based, waterproof.
- Solvent No. 646 or 647. It will be required to degrease the surface of the bathtub bowl after sanding and washing it.
- Putty knife– width 100 mm. A metal spatula will do, but only a new one, without dirt or rusty streaks.
- Adhesive tape– tape, 50 mm wide. You will need two types of tape - masking tape (on paper) and fastening tape (on film).
- Wallpaper knife. Necessary for cutting tape and trimming dried acrylic streaks from the bathroom drain hole before reinstalling the drain and overflow.
- Screwdrivers- straight and cross to remove the drain-overflow siphon. A gas wrench may also be required;
- Stool. It is much more convenient to mix acrylic with a hardener and put the prepared enamel into a container for application if you place a bucket of liquid acrylic on a stool.
In principle, to prepare the walls and bottom of the bathtub for casting with acrylic, manual processing with sandpaper is sufficient. But only if it has not been painted with anything before, i.e. Factory enamel on the surface. Otherwise, you will need to clean it with a drill or grinder.
To remove secondary enamel, the drill needs a Velcro attachment and sanding wheels of grade P40 (or 40-H), for an angle grinder - grinding wheels similar brand.
Required protective equipment:
- Work clothes– trousers, long sleeve shirt or jacket. Drops of acrylic on the skin are not dangerous, but once they dry, they are quite difficult to remove.
- Headdress- at least a headscarf. Hair should not get on enamel coating during the casting process.
- Respirator– at least a “petal”. Cleaning the bathtub will cause a strong release of dust; you should not breathe such air.
- Disposable latex gloves. Hands must be protected from contact with liquid acrylic.
You will need newspaper sheets or PVC film to cover and hang the surfaces around the restored plumbing fixtures. We remind you: drops of cured acrylic spilled during the restoration process are very difficult to remove.
Preparing the bathroom
Collect and remove items usually found in this room: toothbrushes, towels, laundry basket, other cosmetic and hygiene items. The shower curtain should be removed, and if possible, the curtain bar should also be removed.
It should be noted that bowls with cracks cannot be restored. Therefore, you will have to install it.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Enameling a bowl with acrylic that was previously painted with another enamel and requires puttying of individual areas:
Video instructions for restoring the finishing of a bathtub with liquid acrylic from the manufacturer of restoration compositions "Plastol":
The following video describes the process of installing the trim, which was dismantled before applying acrylic enamel:
Following the instructions in the article, you will restore the enamel coating of the bathtub yourself. The updated container will last as long as it was carefully repaired.
Please note that self-leveling acrylic finishes require careful cleaning. You cannot use abrasive products, only liquid ones; substances containing a solvent are also not suitable.
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