Do-it-yourself electrical panel inspection. Refrigerator for separate machine

Unscheduled shutdown of electrical circuit breakers is a problem faced by almost every resident of an apartment and private house, owner of a summer house, country cottage. Most often, traffic jams occur due to surges in the power supply network, short-term current overloads after turning on powerful household or construction appliances, or short circuits. In order to restore the power supply, it is necessary to determine the reasons for the outage and start the electrical circuit breaker.

The lights in the apartment went out: what to do?

Before you climb into the electrical panel yourself, you need to understand the reasons for the shutdown. So, if there is no light in the entire house and neighboring ones, then the cause of the shutdown could be problems at the power plant, rolling blackouts. In this case, you should turn off all electrical household appliances from the sockets (so that when high voltage current is supplied it does not burn out), and wait for the power supply to be restored. If you live in apartment building post-war years XX century, (for example, in Khrushchev), then, most likely, the safety plugs in your apartment or electrical panel on the site were knocked out.

In order to restore power supply, you must:

1. Exit to landing;
2. Open the electrical panel;
3. Determine which of the plugs has flown out (this can be done visually: the white button on the black round plug will stick out from the body by several cm);
4. Press the white button into the fuse housing.

New ones may be installed at some sites electric machines. If the pedals of the machine are lowered, it means the plugs have been knocked out. In order to return the light, you need to move the pedals to the top position.

Why and how to turn off the electricity in the apartment

When carrying out any electrical installation work, long-term departure of the owners or the emergence of potentially dangerous situations related to the quality of the wiring, the apartment must be de-energized. This can be done from the landing.

So, to turn off the electricity in an apartment, you must follow these recommendations:

• If the plugs in the machine are old, ceramic, without buttons, in order to de-energize the apartment it will be enough to simply unscrew them;
• If the plugs on the site are black, with buttons, you need to press the small red buttons on all of them;
• If on the site there is new machine To de-energize the apartment you will need to lower its pedals down.

After this, you need to check whether you have turned off your machine. Otherwise, when carrying out repair work, you can get seriously hurt.

It will be more accurate and easier to check the shutdown using a special indicator screwdriver.

Using this tool is simple: you just need to insert a screwdriver into a socket and check whether the indicator on the tool lights up. If yes, then the apartment is not de-energized. Any outlet in your apartment is suitable for this test.

How to turn off power to an apartment from the landing

An apartment panel may contain several groups of switches. One group may be responsible for the light in the rooms, the other for the current in the sockets. In order to de-energize the apartment in this case, it will be necessary to move all the toggle switches of the machine to the lower position or find a common switch to which phase and zero are connected. It is this switch that is responsible for introducing electricity into the apartment. This switch is located under your group in the electrical panel.

In old houses, in addition to the main circuit breaker, it is necessary to turn off the switch, which is responsible for zero.

This switch is located in the panel below. There are often two such switches for a standard landing. You can determine which of them applies to your apartment by logic: the one that is closer to your apartment will be your switch.

In this case, it is necessary:

• Always check whether the apartment is de-energized (voltage in sockets) using an indicator screwdriver;
• Warn neighbors about possible outages;
• Unplug household appliances that require delicate handling (computer, refrigerator, washing machine);
• Do not touch the plugs if the electric meter is faulty: a broken electric meter can mislead by showing that electricity is not supplied;
• To continue repair work that requires electricity, it is necessary to use special carrying cords with sockets connected to the machine's wires. At the same time, such manipulations should not be carried out without a specialist.

So that, if necessary, you can quickly find and turn off your machine, you can sign it. So, above the work group you can write the apartment number with a marker.

Several ways to open the door panel without a key

Switch box made of fire-resistant material, located in the entrance and, often, consists of two or three sections responsible for the machine, light meters and devices operating on weak currents. Each section has its own door that can be locked with a key. This key may be kept by the electrician servicing the house or the concierge. Often, duplicates are taken from the main key and issued to each apartment. This is done so that, in case of unforeseen situations, residents can quickly react and not wait for an electrician. But what to do if you were not given the key?

There are several ways to open an electrical panel without a key:

1. If the shield is protected by built-in small locks (like on mailboxes), you can use a women's hairpin to open them. To do this, you need to insert the pin with one leg into the upper part of the lock, the other into the lower part, and try to turn the mechanism. Instead of a hairpin, you can use any other thin one, but durable item. The main thing is to act carefully so as not to break the object in the lock.
2. Simple mechanisms can be opened flat screwdriver. To do this, insert a screwdriver into the lock and turn it to the right.
3. Padlocks can be opened using a crowbar or pliers.

Before hacking the shield, you can contact your neighbors. Often, residents who have lived in the house for a long time have their own keys. In this case, after an emergency blackout of the apartment, the panel must be closed. This will protect curious children and adult residents of the house from injury.

If the traffic jams are broken, how to turn on the electricity (video)

Power outages in old houses are a common occurrence, because the old electrical wiring and the machines themselves are not designed for modern electrical equipment. Therefore, often, when simultaneously turning on large quantity electrical appliances, automatic machines. If your lights turn off often, then you, like no one else, should know how to quickly turn on the machine. After all, sometimes there is absolutely not enough time to wait for electricians. Use the tips above and turn on the machines yourself quickly and safely!

An apartment or house switchboard, for a person far from electricians, is a box with some things, an electric meter and a bunch of wires inside. It’s unclear why everything is there and what good it does. And it is completely unclear by what logic it was collected. And most importantly, it’s simply scary to climb there.

If you have such thoughts and reactions to installing an electrical panel in a private house or apartment, congratulations! You are a reasonable person. Because an electrical panel is a really complex and unsafe thing. To competently design and assemble a distribution and metering panel, you need to know a lot of things.

In short, assembling an electrical panel in an apartment is impossible without:

• electrical wiring project;
• choice the right place for installation;
• shield assembly diagrams;
• choosing the right housing (metal or plastic, built-in or wall-mounted);
• competent selection of components;
• correct installation of equipment;
• proper connection of the switchboard to the power cable.

Attention! Any mistake will make the operation of the equipment unsafe, and this will affect all the electrical systems in the house and your household appliances. Therefore, installation of the switchboard should only be carried out by an experienced electrician!

And we will tell you about how the shield is designed, what types of circuits there are, what is inside the case and other subtleties. So that you can check the work of the master and understand why this or that part was chosen.

1. Buy a ready-made electrical panel for installation in an apartment or assemble it yourself

1. Selecting an installation location

Let's start with the simplest part - where to place the switchboard in the apartment? It is most convenient to place it near front door in the hall. In this case, you will not have to pull the power cable far from the site. Most best option in height - at eye level of an adult. And it’s convenient to take meter readings and turn off the machines if necessary.

For those who support pushing everything under the ceiling, “for greater security, like they used to hang up counters,” let’s say the following. Old electric meters with fuse plugs were simply mounted on the wall without boxes, and therefore were hung from the ceiling. A modern electrical panel has a durable casing and is locked, so children will not get in unless you leave the key in a visible place.

When choosing a location for installing a panel in a private house or cottage, you need to consider where and how the cable from the overhead line or underground supply line is or will be installed. Data on external networks can be obtained from local energy sales.

2. Buy a ready-made electrical panel for installation in an apartment or assemble it yourself

As they say in the old song “how progress has come”, you can buy a ready-made shield with a full filling. If your electrician suggests such a “proprietary” assembly design, then do not be alarmed. The shields are collected by enterprises and electrical installation companies, including on order or for standard projects apartment wiring.

The main point that needs to be clarified is whether your master has worked with ready-made shields before or this is his first experience. If he has installed a dozen or two such assemblies and knows their features, then feel free to agree. But if you are a “guinea pig” for the first experiment, refuse. It’s better to let him assemble it himself, with his own hands, the old fashioned way.

3. Switchboard elements

The layout of the panel in the apartment is one of the main points, but before we deal with it, let's see what elements are included in the design. So that you can understand the symbols and composition of the wiring diagram.

Typically, when installing a shield, use:

1. Introductory machine. It is placed to protect the entire wiring circuit. The cores of the main incoming cable are connected to the terminals of the input circuit breaker. For comfortable work with an electrical panel, a switch is often installed in front of the introductory circuit breaker. It allows you to de-energize the entire assembly to replace elements, safe preventative maintenance, and completely shuts off the power supply to your apartment or house. In this case, the power cable is connected to the switch.
2. Electric meter. It is installed after the introductory machine and calculates the energy consumption in a house or apartment. Sometimes the meter stands separately, up to the panel, along with a circuit breaker. For example, on the site of an apartment building.
3. Residual current device— designed to protect against electric shock and prevent fires. The RCD in the circuit can be one, installed after the meter, for example, in a one-room apartment with a small load. Or they install several RCDs on separate lines with high consumption (for an electric stove, washing machine, air conditioner).
4. Linear automata. Needed for individual lines on different rooms, household appliances and lighting. They break the circuit if an overcurrent or short circuit is detected, protecting the wiring and connected equipment from damage. Triggering the machine can prevent a fire due to heating and ignition of the wire.
5. Diffautomatic protection— can be installed instead of a pair of automatic circuit breaker + RCD on separate power lines of electrical appliances.
6. DIN rail— mounting element for installing equipment. Attached to the rear wall of the electrical panel housing. Depending on the dimensions of the cabinet, the number of DIN rails and the possible number of installed modules may vary. In order not to make a mistake when purchasing a switchboard housing based on the number of modules, you need to draw up a wiring diagram.
7. Connection bars. Needed for connecting and connecting working zeros and grounding wires. The panel uses both neutral terminal bars and grounding ones.
8. Distribution buses. Installed for a “bundle” of linear machines, RCDs, and automatic circuit breakers. Comb busbars have reliable insulation and allow you to quickly and safely connect a number of machines through the input terminal block. They can be used both for the current conductor and for the working zero.

4. Diagram of the electrical panel in the apartment

Is the diagram always used when installing a panel? No, not always, but only a master with extensive experience and experience in electrical installation can assemble a distribution board for electrical wiring in an apartment without a diagram. When you make shields constantly and hundreds of them a year, the diagram is imprinted in your head. That is, in fact, it is always there, it’s just not drawn on paper.

Well, if the diagram is printed and you are interested in understanding what kind of rectangles and lines are depicted there, let’s figure it out together.

What types of diagrams are there and what is indicated on them?

The diagram should indicate everything, from the input circuit breaker to the limit switches on the lines. Moreover, not just squares are drawn, but the full designation with the denomination and protection class is written down. This diagram will be useful when replacing modules or adding new ones.

Let's now look at different variants diagrams for assembling a panel in an apartment.

For housing in an old building (wiring without grounding)

In Soviet-built houses and reconstructed old buildings, the wiring is not grounded. Therefore, there is no grounding PE bus in the electrical panel circuit.

For a one-room apartment we use the simplest version of the shield. Its design will include:

• housing with din rails;
• two-pole input circuit breaker 32 Ampere;
• electric meter (the example shows “Mercury 201”);
• RCD 2P 40A at 30mA;
• 3 single-pole 16 A circuit breakers (lighting, sockets, washing machine);
• zero PEN bus (for separate connection of zero and protection).

Attention! For safe operation wiring in such schemes separates the neutral working and protective conductors in the cable on the PEN bus, even in the absence of a ground loop.

To protect against voltage surges when “zero burns out” due to dilapidated house wiring, a voltage control relay is added to the switchboard circuit. It is triggered when the insulation breaks down and the phase and neutral wires come into contact, breaks the circuit and protects household appliances from damage.

For two- to three-room apartments, this scheme expands to required quantity linear machines. And on socket lines with large household appliances, for example, a washing machine/dishwasher, additional two-pole RCDs with a lower rating (16-25A/10mA) are installed to protect against electric shock. This allows for high safety even without a ground wire.

Electrical panel diagram in an apartment with RCD and grounding

If the house is new or the cable in the entrance was changed and a ground loop was installed, then the layout of the apartment panel will be different. For example, let's also take one-room apartment with an electric stove in the kitchen.

When installing the switchboard you must use:

• plastic box with 2 rows of DIN rails;
• two-pole input circuit breaker 40 A;
• single-phase electric meter;
• RCD 2P 50 A at 30 mA;
• 4 single-pole package switches (three for 16 A and one for 25 A for the stove);
• zero bus (working zero N) and ground bus (PE);
• comb bus (for connecting machines).

Attention! Electric meter rated at 40 A with this circuit option, it is installed on the site or in a separate box paired with a circuit breaker. But it can be added to the plan and placed between the input machine and the RCD.

In an apartment with many rooms and cable lines For powerful equipment, it is necessary to install additional 2-pole RCDs with a rating of 16-25A/10 mA. They will react faster to a small leak and protect against electric shock.

For example, washing machines often “fight with electric shock” because of problems with internal wiring. And if you touch them wet hands, then you can get a noticeable blow. This is extremely dangerous, especially for children or people with weak hearts. The RCD on the connection line of the machine will sense surges and turn off the power at the first contact of the bare wire with the body.

Both circuit options, with and without grounding, are designed for networks with a voltage of 220 Volts, which is used in most residential buildings in the city. But some buildings receive power at 380 volts and the circuits of apartment electrical panels in them are much more complicated.

Switchboard diagram for an apartment with a three-phase power supply network

In new houses, for example, in town houses, a network with a voltage of 380 Volts is installed and the corresponding wiring is made in the housing. The electrical panel diagram for an apartment of this type is more complex and uses three-phase and single-phase devices. An electricity meter is usually installed separately on the site, paired with a three-pole circuit breaker or switch.

In principle, such an assembly can also be used for a private house with three-phase power supply. But with the mandatory installation of a general fire protection RCD. It is not necessary to install it in an apartment if there are separate devices on the lines.

To install the shield you will need:

• housing with DIN rails;
• three-pole input circuit breaker for 63 Amperes;
• three-phase meter;
• two-pole RCD 40 A at 30 mA (to protect bathroom lighting lines, washing machine and room sockets);
• linear machines for 1 pole (rated 16, 25, 40 A);
• additional two-pole breakers for wiring kitchen sockets 16A/30mA and hydromassage bath(25A/30mA), they can be replaced with a pair of RCDs + a circuit breaker with similar characteristics;
• zero buses and protective;
• comb tires.

The circuit can be supplemented with an additional RCD for an electric stove (2P 25A/30 mA).

Panel in an apartment with a three-phase electric stove

In some houses, a three-phase network cable is supplied to the apartments, but the voltage of 380 Volts is used only to connect the electric stove. All other wiring is done for a single-phase network and the panel turns out to be combined.

At the entrance there is a three-pole 63 A input circuit breaker (after the switch), then a three-phase meter. Then the power wire is run along two different branches. In the first, excess phases are removed and a switchboard circuit and electrical wiring with one phase of 220 Volts are installed. The second branch is left unchanged and three phases are connected to the electric stove with a straight wire.

A three-pole circuit breaker with 20A or 32A (depending on the power of the electric stove) and a four-pole RCD with an ampere rating exceeding the machine’s rating by one step must be installed on the line, i.e. for a 20A circuit breaker you should take a 25A/30mA RCD, for a 32A circuit breaker - a 40A/30mA RCD. Or they install a difavtomat with similar characteristics for current (20A or 32A) and leakage (30 mA).

When installing wiring, use a three-phase five-wire power cable with a current load from 20 to 32 Amperes and a special socket and plug for connecting an electric stove.

If instead of a stove there is a separate panel and a separate oven, then you will have to run two connection lines. On the panel - three-phase, on the cabinet, most often single-phase, with the installation of appropriate circuit breakers and RCDs. (About the choice of sockets for the oven and hob you can read it)

Refrigerator for separate machine

Often, in the panel diagrams in the apartment, a separate line is made for the refrigerator in order to turn off everything except it. This allows you not to empty the refrigerator of supplies during a vacation or business trip and at the same time turn off the power to everything else for safety.

5. Switchboard in a private house

Houses are different, just like apartments, and the layouts in them are also different. But they can be divided into 2 groups: for wiring at 220 V and at 380 V.

Distribution board for 220 V electrical wiring in a private house

For small-format suburban housing or country house no complicated assembly required. There is no large load, and therefore the circuit resembles a simple electrical panel for a one-room apartment.

For installation you will need:

• box with DIN rail;
• input two-pole switch 40 Ampere;
• electricity meter (single-phase, corresponding in current rating to the input circuit breaker, single or multi-tariff);
• two-pole circuit breaker or RCD 50 A/30 mA;
• batch switches/circuit breakers for 1 pole (according to the number of load lines, with a rating of 16 A for lighting and sockets and a rating of 25-40 A for a powerful load, for example, a stove);
• zero bus;
• safety bus;
• insulated connecting comb.

If there are more working lines than in the diagram, for example, there is also a garage and a workshop, then we add circuit breakers for them and install additional RCDs to protect against current leaks due to breakdowns on the housing and damage to the wiring. In a garage or workshop this is necessary because high humidity and lack of heating. It is better to install an extra RCD with a small rating than to “catch” an electric shock in a damp room.

Assembly of a panel for a private house with a three-phase network

If the house is large, like a cottage, then it is most often powered from a three-phase network. There is a lot of wiring both in residential premises and in outbuildings. Therefore, the project turns out to be serious and many elements are needed for assembly.

The electrical panel diagram for a home includes:

• housing with 2-3 rows of DIN rails;
• 3-pole input circuit breaker 63A;
• three-phase electric meter (rated current 63 A);
• four-pole RCD 80 A at 300 mA (for general fire protection of the wiring circuit);
• distribution buses;
• 1P automatic switches for separate groups loads (lights - 16A, sockets - 25A, powerful household appliances and outbuildings - 40A);
• additional two-pole RCDs with a rating of 10/16/30 mA to protect certain groups: sockets, garage (the current value is an order of magnitude higher than in machines from 25 to 50 Amperes);
• a three-pole circuit breaker for 20 A and a 4P RCD for 25 A with a leakage current of up to 30 mA for connecting an electric stove or a difautomatic circuit breaker for 20 A/30 mA;
• zero buses and protective PE bus;
• comb tires.

The power of the fire-fighting RCD of 300 milliamps was selected for the total load and significant background leaks. It is designed to protect wiring from fire due to short circuits or damaged insulation. To protect individual circuits from electric shocks, devices with a lower rating are installed to respond to a leak in the protected line.

The house uses a voltage of 220 V for lighting and sockets for household appliances, as well as a 380 V line for powering the electric stove. A single-phase network branch goes to outbuildings.

If you need to power a three-phase load, you can add another power circuit with output outside the house. Or install a machine, an RCD and a 380 V socket inside the house to connect the load through an extension cord. This option is suitable if the equipment will be turned on very rarely.

6. How to choose a housing for an electrical panel in an apartment or house

Since all the elements from the diagram are installed inside the panel body, it must be selected after developing the installation plan. So that everything you need will fit and there will be some reserve for adding components. The result is a diagram for 42 modules, which means we’ll take the case for 46, or we’ll take 66 places, and we’ll take the cabinet for 72.

The free space will allow you to connect a new line or pair if the need arises. For example, we bought more household appliances, but the cable and sockets in the kitchen/bathroom will not carry the overall load and we need to “throw in” additional ones. Or they changed the stove to a more powerful one and it needs a cable with different characteristics. Therefore, it is better to take a cabinet with a reserve number of modules than to later replace it with a new one and reassemble the entire panel.

When choosing a housing, the space available for connecting wires and connecting groups of machines is also taken into account. During installation, it is necessary to maintain a safe distance between elements. You cannot push them and the wires tightly, compacting them like sprat in a jar.

Types of electrical panel housing

All cases or, as they are also called, boxes can be divided according to two main characteristics:

• material of manufacture (metal, plastic).
• installation method (mounted, built-in).

Metal cabinets Most often they are wall-mounted and mounted on the wall. They are available in both standard versions with a degree of protection IP 31-43, and moisture resistant with IP 44-54. To assemble a shield in a house or apartment, a standard housing is sufficient; it is unlikely to get exposed to rain or be placed next to water supply pipes. Sealed boxes are useful for installation outdoors and are not of interest to us.

There are models of metal cabinets for installation in a niche; if you like metal and want to put the cabinet into the wall, choose this one.

Plastic shields Available for both wall and niche installation. You can choose a plastic cabinet for small assemblies (in apartments/country houses) and for complex multi-component panels (cottage, Vacation home, large apartment). In terms of strength and IP protection, they are not inferior to metal ones.

Advice! When choosing a shield for a niche, make it slightly larger than the body in width and height. It is much easier to fix the installed shield with foam or alabaster in a large opening than to push it end-to-end into a niche.

Number of modules and filling of boxes

Cases are sold with DIN rails installed on a certain number modules, it is indicated in the product name. Din rails are mounting guides for installed equipment. Automatic machines, RCDs, and meters have special latches that secure them to the rail.

The number of modules is the number of elements the size of one module that can fit on the slats. If an element occupies more than one module in width, then fewer elements will fit into the housing. For determining required number you need to add up the dimensions of all the circuit elements in the modules, taking into account the margin for the distance between the parts.

Some models are equipped with DIN rails with end caps that can be removed. This frees up space for additional elements. But it is better to take a cabinet with a reserve number of modules, as we have already said (for example, we counted 66 modules, we bought a box for 72).

To connect working neutral and protective wires, special buses are used. Some cabinet models have them installed, but most often when assembling the panel they need to be purchased separately.

7. Body of the shield for the apartment in the online store website

RCD

The circuit may have one residual current device for the entire wiring, it is also called a general fire protection RCD, and separate ones for lines with a heavy load. The current rating of a general fire protection RCD in amperes is theoretically equal to the rating of the machine, but from practical experience It is better to install a protective device with a higher indicator. This will protect the RCD from damage due to overload. In such cases, the machine does not operate instantly, but after some time there is a danger that the protective device will burn out. But if the rating of the RCD is higher than that of the machine, it will easily tolerate an overload of even 30-40%.

The magnitude of the differential current depends on total load for wiring. For simple schemes An RCD of 30 mA is enough; for complex and loaded ones, they take 100 mA and even 300 mA. The main task of a fire protection RCD is protection against short circuits and fires.

The following are suitable as general ones:

RCDs on lines usually have a difcurrent value of 10 mA; they must respond quickly to minimal leakage, but according to the recommendations of the PUE, equipment can also be installed at 30 mA. Based on the nominal current rating, it is also better to take a “protection” with a larger value, that is, for a socket line paired with a 25 A circuit breaker, preferably a 40 A RCD.

For lighting, we take a 25-amp RCD to a 16 A switch.

The external condition of the control panel is checked by an electrician once every four weeks.

The control panel at the crossing must be installed outside the post building in a place with good visibility of the railway tracks and the highway.

When checking, pay attention to the integrity of the shield body, the reliability of fastening the shield to the post building, the reliability of fastening and the protection of cables from mechanical damage. Check the presence of all seals on the control panel and their compliance with the electrician’s stamp number, the strength of fastening of the elements (buttons, lamp sockets, etc.), the presence, condition and correctness of the inscriptions of the elements, the serviceability (burning) of the control lamps.

Any comments identified during the inspection should be eliminated.

Once a quarter (during the next comprehensive service), an electrician checks the control panel and opens it. To do this, he makes a corresponding entry in the Book of Reception and Handover of Duties and Inspection of Devices at the Crossing (Form PU-67). The person on duty at the crossing puts his signature and time on the electrician’s entry, after which the electrician breaks the seal from the control panel housing.

Having opened the control panel, the electrician must pay attention to its internal condition, the absence of dust, moisture, mold, rust, oxides, etc. in it and its elements. If necessary, clean the elements inside the panel with a flute brush and a technical flap, if necessary - cloth soaked in kerosene. Then check the condition of the buttons, test lamp holders and soldering on their contacts, the condition of the terminal block and the tightness of the mounting wires and cable cores on it, the condition of the mounting wires, as well as the serviceability (burning) of the warning lamps.

Check the fastening of the mounting wires and cable cores on the terminal block by tightening the nuts and locknuts with a socket wrench. Check the condition of the soldering visually; the mounting wires at the soldering points should not have broken or unsoldered wires, the solder should lie in an even layer without excess or sharp protrusions.

If the railway crossing is equipped with electric barriers, then carefully check the electrical circuits for turning on the notification bells.

The deficiencies identified during the inspection should be eliminated.

If necessary, paint the control panels inside and outside with light-colored oil paint.

At the end of the inspection, the electrician seals the control panel and makes a corresponding entry in the Book of reception and delivery of duty and inspection of devices at the crossing (form PU-67).

2.8. Checking the condition of choke jumpers and jumpers to cable racks

Check the condition of the throttle jumpers and jumpers to the cable racks, as well as to the track transformer boxes of the rail circuits of the railway crossing in the manner described in the technological map No. 32. The remaining work on checking the condition of the floor equipment of the signaling devices and measuring the parameter of the rail circuits of the crossing should be performed at the frequency specified in section "Electrical rail circuits" Instructions for the maintenance of signaling, centralization and interlocking devices (signals) and this Technology.

In apartments, shields are used to install modular protective devices and meters. Therefore, many people are faced with their purchase. In appearance they are ordinary plastic boxes. They are available for outdoor and built-in installation. But here we will not talk about the types of shields, but about checking them before purchasing.

We recently bought two shields from the company ABB series Mistral 41 for 24 modules. These are ordinary housings for built-in installation in a prepared niche. When unpacking, one corner was broken off. In principle, the damage was minor, but still it was not very pleasant to see it, especially when you pay more than five thousand rubles for them. At least it’s not your own money, but the client’s, but it’s still not pleasant)))

Before they fall into your hands, all the shields have time to lie around in more than one warehouse. But we know our loaders and storekeepers! Many of them like to throw the box farther and higher))) Therefore, your shield has been loaded, transported, shaken, shifted, dropped, etc. more than once.

Typically, the material of the shields is heat-resistant plastic, which does not really like various impacts and from which it cracks easily. That’s why I strongly recommend that you carefully examine the shield before purchasing it. appearance packaging. And if there are any suspicions about possible impacts on it, then remove the shield itself from the box and inspect it carefully for cracks and chips. It’s better to immediately replace it in the store than to try to prove something and return it a few days later.

So, we bought two of these shields...

The appearance of the packaging was within normal limits. It's true that the corners were a little crumpled, but I didn't notice it. special significance in the shop.

As a result, when I took them out of the package, I found a broken piece of plastic...

I quickly found the place where it broke off. It turned out that when struck by the corner of the body, a small piece of it broke off. The impact came through the packaging and was enough to crack the shield. So it was a good shot. Most likely it was just dropped.

In principle, this breakdown was small and did not affect anything. In a word, I was lucky. But it could have been on a larger scale and then there would have been no luck. So watch what you buy and don’t end up like me.

I simply glued the chipped corner back in place to keep everything in place.

This shield has been standing in its niche for a long time and machine guns and RCDs work in it)))

Have you come across new ones? cracked cases shields?

An electrical panel is a serious device that distributes electricity throughout the house. It performs many safety functions, protecting wiring from overloads, and distributing energy to all consumers.

Installation and assembly of electrical panel

The electrical panel includes a complex modular equipment. If necessary, you can carry out the installation yourself, but first you need to learn how to properly assemble the shield.

To separate the work of electrical components and housing installation, you should purchase a panel that has a removable frame and DIN rails.

There are several types of electrical panel installation:

• wall mounting;
• installation in the wall.

Let's consider the second option, since the first one is installed simply on holders. Before you hollow out an opening in the wall, you need to make sure that it is not “load-bearing” in the house. According to the rules, installation work cannot be done in it.

The electrical panel must be visible. Doors should not impede his access. For safety reasons, the shield should not be placed close to gas pipes and other flammable substances. To place it on the wall, it is necessary to take into account the height from the floor to its lower edge of at least 1.4 m, and the distance of the upper edge from the floor is no more than 1.8 m.

It will help to mark the future area building level. To maintain all dimensions, you can attach the body to the wall and outline it with chalk. A slot is made using a grinder along the marked lines.

A chisel and a hammer drill will help to hollow out the inside. You need to check the depth of the resulting niche by inserting the electrical panel housing into it.

First, the mount included in the kit is mounted there. Then the electrical panel. For fastenings, holes are made and dowels are inserted. Polyurethane foam the remaining cavities are sealed.

DIN rails are unscrewed from the electrical panel in order to install modular equipment on them. If the kit does not include special fasteners, then you need to drill holes in the back wall of the shield for future fastenings. This is done carefully; excessive force may cause the housing to burst.

How to insert cables correctly

An electrical panel with a removable cover will help you insert the wires inside correctly and conveniently. Conventional enclosures have holes for cables that are slightly cut or pressed out. They are located at the top or bottom of the body. They may also be in its back wall.

In electrical panels of poor quality, there may not even be a hint of any holes. Then you will have to mark and drill them yourself; not everyone has the patience for this. Therefore, it is better to buy a housing that is more expensive and will take less time to install.

Modern housings for core planting have plugs. They are removed after the shield is installed in the wall. Cables are inserted into the resulting holes. Instead of plugs there may be stuffing box plates.

The first step is to start the input core. It should be located near the input machine. There are comb-type fastenings on the shield; the lead-in conductor should be attached to it. A plastic clamp is used as a tie. Its excess ends are cut off.

The cable is marked with markings, which are indicated on the diagram. This is done with all veins. After their installation, a removable cover is applied and marks are made on it. Cutouts are made along them, and the lid falls into place.

How to cut cables inside a switchboard

The insulation must be removed from the inserted cores. This process is done carefully; conductive wires must not be damaged. Immediately a second mark is made on it. This is important because there can be a lot of confusion after cutting all the wires.

Paper tape is suitable for labels. Do not forget the main rule: marks must be applied as indicated on the diagram.

In order for the cable to be sufficient for the entire length of the wiring, you need to insert it into the electrical panel and run it to its entire height. Then measure the same distance in height again. The result will be a length twice the height of the shield. This supply of cable will allow you to confidently guide it to desired point according to all wiring rules, and excess pieces can always be cut off.

Modern modular protection devices

The quality of electricity in modern networks is not always satisfactory. To protect the line from overloads, they began to use protective devices modular type. The electrical panel with automatic machines will be protected from short circuit. It will immediately react to the appearance of overcurrents. When connecting the machine, you must adhere to general rule on the power supply - it is connected only from above.

The insulation is removed from the wires. The machines have clamping terminals, insert the core into them and tighten with a screw. You should be careful not to get caught insulating materials into the terminal contact. If this happens, then the apartment may suddenly lose electricity, or the protection device may fail. This may cause a fire.

There's one more thing important rule: do not connect the wires different sections to one terminal AB. A wire with a larger cross-section will receive good contact when tightened, while a wire with a smaller cross-section will receive poor contact. The insulation on it will melt, which will lead to a fire.

If the connected core is monolithic, then for good contact its end should be bent in the shape of a U. The connection area increases, and the contact is reliable.

Stranded wires in the terminals of the machine cannot be tightened without special lugs. The contact will be poor and unreliable. To switch them use:

• NShVI tip (2);
• NShV tip.

Assembly of modular panel elements

For those who have never come into contact with such a task, you can provide instructions for assembling an electrical panel. Let's prepare workplace, nothing should interfere with the assembly of modules. We make good lighting.

The following modules will be required:

• circuit breaker (load switch);
• voltage relay;
• residual current device (RCD);
• differential automatic machines;
• circuit breakers;
• cross module.

You can assemble a single-phase panel with your own hands, provided that you have some knowledge of an electrician.

All modules are mounted on a previously removed DIN rail. They are arranged in the same order strictly according to the list. The modules are secured using special clamps. Having checked the correct distribution, we proceed to the terminals. You need to loosen the screws on them.

Will be needed different types comb. Input clamps (terminals) will help you more conveniently connect the combs to the power wires. They must be placed between the terminal of the module and the comb.

The input load switch has a phase output (lower contact) from which a phase is distributed to the RCD, circuit breakers and other switches. The RCD has zero terminals; they receive a working zero, which is taken from the lower output terminal of the input circuit breaker.

For further assembly of the electrical panel, one end of the neutral wire must be free. It is connected to the main bus of the working zero. Zero buses and zero outputs of all RCDs are switched with a blue wire.

All unused connections are tightened with a screwdriver. After this, the entire installation is checked. After applying voltage to the input circuit breaker, press the test button.

Terminals circuit breakers checked for voltage. When they are turned on, the same measurements are taken at the output. To Appliances do not burn out due to voltage surges, install a voltage control relay. The method for assembling a three-phase panel is the same as for a single-phase one. They differ only in the number of conductive wires.

Final installation

When all modular devices have been adjusted and tested, all that remains is to transfer them to the electrical panel housing. For safety, turn off the power. A niche in the wall is being prepared. The assembled devices are mounted on a DIN frame inside the housing.

The main and protective zero buses are mounted. When distributing wires among bundles, it is not recommended to allow them to intersect. The protective zero wires are attached to the PE bus. The connection sequence is observed as in the electrical panel diagram. The protective zero before commutation with the bus terminal is marked.

When all devices are connected, a check begins for compliance with the connection diagram. On the Internet you can see a photo of the assembled electrical panel.

To check assembled electrical panel, it is necessary to install all switches and sockets in the apartment. Connect the load to sockets on all lines of powerful consumers. After applying voltage, phases and zeros are checked for compliance.

When the adjustment is completed, do not rush to close the electrical panel. It should work for a couple of hours, and then it will become clear whether the assembly was carried out efficiently. Installation and connection of the shield is labor-intensive process, requiring certain knowledge and experience. You should start with it after studying the theoretical part and follow step by step instructions on assembly.

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