A watering can for flowers is an indispensable attribute personal plot, a dacha plot of land, a cottage house and even an apartment. So that the watering can doesn't just play its functional role, but also combined with landscape design or the interior of a newfangled apartment, you need to understand where exactly you will use it.
Handmade watering cans decorate the interior and are useful to use. Every housewife loves her flowers and takes care of them. The watering can is an assistant in this matter.
Watering can for flowers
If the permanent home for the watering can will be an apartment, you can take a watering can you already have or purchase the simplest option and then paint it a uniform color. However, this option will surprise few people, because you can buy a plain watering can in a store, so why then waste time and effort on painting it?
Excellent and simple option There will be a beautiful bright sticker that is applied to the surface of the watering can. You can completely cover it, but you should understand that paper stickers will quickly get wet and deteriorate, unless, of course, you stick tape over the paper. This should be done along the entire perimeter of the drawing so that there are no gaps left, because water can get into things and seep into the depths.
As you know, they play a very important role. Some of them require special care; they should not be over-watered, which can happen if you pour water from a bottle in a large stream. You can also damage the trunk of the plant, even if you don’t notice it, but the plant will suffer.
Many indoor foliage flowers like to be watered from above, creating a rain effect. Droplets form on the leaves, and this also nourishes them. This is where a watering can will be useful, which can be combined with a sprayer.
However, it is also worth remembering that this rule does not apply to all house flowers, and for some of them, top watering will be marked by the onset of diseases and leaf rotting. Therefore, before using a watering can, read on the Internet how to water correctly certain types colors.
How to make a watering can
Let's think about how to make a watering can with your own hands so that it not only helps you with watering, but also looks interesting and unusual.
The first and easiest option is to take and make holes in its lid using an awl. To prevent this option from looking too ordinary and banal, you can take a bottle unusual shape, having previously examined the entire range of drinks offered in the store.
It will be difficult to cover such a bottle, so if its color does not suit you, it is advisable to use paint. However, this maneuver applies to bottles whose surface is dense and does not bend, otherwise the paint will quickly crack.
However, the option of cracked paint is also not bad, because it is also interesting and unusual, but it will be suitable for you if you use a watering can, for example, in the country. This is not suitable for an apartment option, because peeling paint underfoot is not what we are looking for.
DIY watering can from a glass
The watering can can also be made from a glass. It will be more difficult to process, but this version of the watering can will last much longer and will look much more aesthetically pleasing. For such a device you need to take some kind of glass or even a ceramic mug, as well as a drill.
You should be very careful with the drill, because while working to create a hole, the mug may burst or small cracks may appear on it. To prevent this from happening, the hole should be drilled carefully and slowly.
- we take the plastic tube that we prepared, in accordance with the thickness of which we created a hole;
- paint the tube and the glass itself in the same color;
- insert the tube into the glass under the flower watering can;
- We fix it with glue so that there are no gaps through which water could seep through.
It is advisable if you choose a mug that has a narrow neck, since a wide top hole will be inconvenient to handle, and to prevent water from spilling out of it, you will need to pour too little water into an already small mug.
Unusual DIY watering can
If the option with an original small watering can does not suit you, and your plans include watering large quantity flowers planted in open ground, you will probably need the idea of a large original watering can.
Take a bottle from some detergent, draw chaotic lines on it using regular paints. You will get an interesting avant-garde style watering can, on which dirt will not be too noticeable. To prevent the design from being washed off, cover the watering can varnish coating. You can leave such a watering can in the yard if you have one, next to which they look great decorative elements.
However, a watering can be a simple interior decoration or landscape design plot. Even if you only have, it doesn’t matter, you can put a watering can next to them, it will only decorate and add aesthetics to the atmosphere.
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Earth drill
Such a technical device makes it easy to extract powerful roots of various weeds from the soil, which are deeply seated in it.
HydrodrillThe device is designed to apply fertilizer directly to the root zone, significantly reducing moisture loss through evaporation, reducing the degree of injury to plant roots, and washing away pests from trunks and branches.
Hydrodrill. 1 – tube, 2 – tip, 3 – hose, 4 – tee, 5 – handle, 6 – tap, 7 – dispenser tank, 8 – flexible partition, 9 – hose, 10 – valve, 11 – hose.
A conical tip is attached to a durable rubber hose. The diameter of its outlet should be 6 - 8 mm. With a pressure in the water supply of 1 atm, the water flowing out of the hydraulic drill washes out a hole in the soil up to 70 cm deep (up to 6 cm in diameter) in a matter of seconds.
In order to apply fertilizer using a hydraulic drill, a hydraulic compressor with a flexible partition is connected to it. After connecting it, the supply nutrient solution regulated using a special valve.
Drill from an old panA drill made from an old pan is fixed on the riser, having previously installed a piece of drill bit (25 mm in diameter) from below. (Instead, you can use a strip of steel twisted in a spiral.) A knife is attached to the body on both sides. Small slots (30–40 mm wide) are made in front of each of them. When the drill is deepened, the soil is fed into the pan through these same slots. Then it is removed.
A drill from an old pan. 1 – tip, 2 – slot, 3 – knife, 4 – knife fastening, 5 – body, 6 – riser.
Markers and seeders
On summer cottage Everywhere you turn, manual labor is required. Even primitive mechanization of work will significantly facilitate the task and increase labor productivity. A marker is a device that allows one movement to make not one, but several grooves (or nests) for seeds.
Cross marker
Cross marker. 1 – base, 2 – rail, 3 – handle, 4 – support stand, 5 – tap.
If it is planned that the crops in the bed will be located transversely, the grooves are made using a transverse marker covering the entire width of the bed.
The base of the marker is a board. From below, slats are nailed to it, but not flat, but having a triangular cross-section. A handle with a support stand and a tap is attached to the top. Place the marker across the ridge and rest your foot on the board. In this case, one of the edges of the slate is pressed into the soil and leaves even grooves. The spike of the tap is a kind of boundary for the next installation of the marker. Row by row, placing a marker, mark the entire bed.
Longitudinal markerWhen plants are placed along a ridge, a longitudinal marker is used, shaped like a rake. But this is only in form: instead of teeth, 3-sided parallel wooden blocks are attached to the base.
The device makes it possible to make 12 furrows at once in one pass.
Simple markerMake landings vegetable crops A simple marker will help you be more careful.
Its design and dimensions are shown in the figure (1 – for radish seeds, 2 – for pea seeds).
Rake markerYou can also use an ordinary rake as a marker. But this cannot be done without improvement.
Two metal points are bolted to the rake, longer than their teeth. By drilling several holes in the rake bar and rearranging the tips, you can change the distance between them, and therefore the interval between the grooves.
Simplified markerHelpful when you need to make a lot of holes for seeds. Similar to a tool used by plasterers. Made from a board or piece of chipboard. On work surface The marker is secured with wooden spikes, and a handle is attached on top.
Simple markerMade from old (“toothless”) rakes. To the base, on the opposite side, “antennae” made of 3 thin metal plates are riveted.
A triangular recess is provided in the middle of the base. Thanks to it, the marker can be moved along a stretched cord, which guarantees accurate marking.
Marker (I. Mikhailov)Designed both for sowing radishes and carrots, and for marking an area for tomatoes and cucumbers. The craftsman based his invention on wooden slats 50 – 60 mm wide (15 – 30 mm thick and 130 and 200 cm long). He planed them with a plane, giving them a wedge shape, and then connected them with 2 short (proportional to the size of the row spacing) transverse bars. Before starting agricultural work, the gardener places the structure on the bed, lightly presses on it with his foot - and furrows 20–30 mm deep appear in the soil. The innovator determines the location of the future plant as follows: he places a pre-marked pipe with a diameter of 76.2 mm on the site. Its length corresponds to the size of the plot.
Marker (N. Semenov)The inventor passed a steel rod (12 mm in diameter) through a metal pipe (30 cm long and 6 cm in outer diameter). He placed a bearing on the ends of the home-grown axle.
The gardener attached 2 curved plates to the same axis, forming “horns”. A second pipe, but already 120 cm long, is inserted between their ends (2 rows of holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled through the ears of the plates and the lower end of the second pipe, for greater connection strength. M8 mounting bolts are inserted into them). Depending on the desired row spacing, from 3 to 7 disks (with an outer diameter of 100 and an inner diameter of 60 mm) are placed on a shaft rotating in a horizontal plane. The thickness of the discs is 10 mm, their outer edge is sharpened to a cone). To make it easier to move the marker, a handlebar from a children's bicycle is inserted into the vertical pipe from above.
Multi-row markerMade from a piece of thick plywood (or chipboard). At the base of the device, holes are drilled at the required intervals (in several rows). Wooden round pegs are driven into them, protruding from one side of the base by the required amount. The lower end of the pegs is sharpened. Handles are attached to both sides of the base.
Shoe seederSuch an original device is used for sowing seeds of fairly large garden crops, placed in a row at a distance of a step (or a multiple of a step). With its help, you can even sow the seeds of some trees (for example, spruces), as well as corn and melons.
The device, shaped like a bird's beak, is attached with straps to the heel of the shoe. Having taken a step, the gardener presses the “beak” of the seeder into the ground. A hole forms in it. In this case, the lever touches the spring plate and turns. The “beak” opens and the seeds fall into the ground.
The container with seeds is attached to the belt. It is connected to the “beak” flexible tube. But just throwing a seed into the ground is not enough: it needs to be watered and fed. For these purposes, another tube is connected to the “beak”, through which water or liquid fertilizer enters the hole.
Cane seederEliminates constant bending during sowing. Suitable for making old bike. A movable seed container is inserted into the vertical part of the handle. At the bottom of the device, a trapezoidal ploughshare with a seed planting depth regulator and a soil compactor heel are riveted. Before work, seeds are poured into the container and buried in a ploughshare to the required depth (after installing a limiter). Then the “cane” is rotated around its axis by 90 – 130°, resulting in a funnel-shaped nest. After this, the container is lifted and the seeds rush into the chamber. Push through the slot with a finger required amount seeds into a tube.
Cane seeder. 1 – container for seeds, 2 – container fastening, 3 – slot, 4 – chamber, 5 – container, 6 – tube, 7 – paddle, 8 – soil compactor, 9 – depth regulator.
Three-wheeled seeder (M. Krasilnikov)
The craftsman attached 3 wheels to the seeder: the rear one is from a children’s bicycle (300 mm in diameter), the front wheels (on the same axle) are from a baby stroller. A box made of multilayer plywood with a plexiglass lid is placed on a frame bent in the shape of the letter “P” from strip iron (size 40x350 mm) (length 525 and width 115 mm) and secured with 2 bolts. This is a seed hopper. Inside the box, on 2 sliding bearings, in a horizontal plane, the main part of the apparatus is mounted - a shaft carved from birch and varnished, shaped like a spool of thread. One of 3 replaceable tapes made from a leather belt is inserted into its cavity, in which hemispherical depressions are burned out (their number depends on the area of crops, and the diameter is 10 - 8 mm). When the seeder moves along the plowed area bicycle chain, stretched between the rear wheel sprocket to the sowing unit reel, rotates the latter. The tape cells in the hopper capture the seeds and send them into the funnel (the diameter of the funnel itself is 56 mm, the diameter of the outlet tube is 28 mm).
Three-wheeled seeder. a – diagram of the seeder (side and top view), b – diagram of the seeding wheel (top and side view); 1 – drive wheel, 2 – sowing device, 3 – frame, 4 – marking wheel, 5 – funnel, 6 – coulter, 7 – seed tube, 8 – reel, 9 – handle, 10 – sprocket, 11 – chain.
From there, the seeds flow by gravity first into the opener and then into the furrow.
The simplest seederYou can fit any (fortunately, they now come in different sizes) medicine bottle under it. Seeds are poured into it, the neck is plugged with a stopper, into which the hollow thickened end of a goose feather is passed. Before sowing the seeds, tilt the bottle and shake it gently. The seeds are placed in a furrow prepared in advance in an even line.
Simple crutchDesigned for planting potatoes and other crops. It is made from a cutting of arbitrary length. A block 170 - 180 mm long is nailed across the handle, at a distance of 250 mm from the sharpened end.
One person makes holes in certain places, and the other lowers the nodules into them.
The crossbar on the handle does not allow the spike to go deeper into the soil than required, which ensures the same depth of the planting holes.
Its transverse part has a length of 130 - 200 mm and a width of about 100 mm, is made in the form of a shuttle and is placed on the handle. The device is convenient for making furrows for sowing seeds.
Cabbage crutchUsed when planting cabbage seedlings and other vegetable crops. The crutch consists of a handle 1.25 m long, pointed on one side, and a handle, which is also made of wood. The landing process, like using a simple crutch, requires a partner. The first, walking along the ridge, makes holes in the soil, and the second plants seedlings in them.
Watering tools and devices
While watering the beds can be done either with a regular watering can or with an improved one, in the garden this operation turns out to be quite labor-intensive. And there’s no escape: trees and shrubs also want to “drink.” Therefore, we will talk about watering installations. All homemade installations for irrigation have a significant drawback: too much water consumption. In light of this, gardeners are interested drip irrigation. A similar device is more often used when there are few fruit trees on the site.
Watering cans
Over the decades, the design of a fairly simple piece of gardening equipment has remained virtually unchanged. Nevertheless, skilled gardeners are constantly modernizing what, it would seem, cannot be modernized.
Watering can-telescopeIn a garden watering can, the mesh nozzle for watering is usually located just above the handle. A piece of metal (or rubber) pipe is used to extend the standard “spout”. Working with an improved watering can is much more convenient: the “telescope” delivers life-giving moisture to the edge of even the widest bed.
Usually, when storing and transporting, the spout of the watering can requires extra space. And it interferes with scooping water from the barrel. The watering can will become more convenient during operation and storage when the spout and body are connected with a corrugated rubber tube. A rope is tied to the mesh attachment and secured to the latch. To prevent the watering can from rusting from remaining moisture, make a hole in its body (closer to the top cover). It is better to store the improved watering can upside down.
A handle in the form of an arc is soldered to the watering can. The quality of watering will significantly improve the transverse tubular nozzle.
The standard mesh is replaced with it. It is much more convenient to work with such a watering can, and in addition, after modernization, its working grip will increase.
Watering can with dividerThe water divider is usually placed on the nozzle of the watering can. IN in this case The fitting of the nozzle and the divider in relation to the nozzle of the watering can is made internal.
Watering can with divider. 1 – body of the watering can, 2 – pipe with a fender flange, 3 – divider.
The seating surface of the pipe divider can be either conical or cylindrical. The divider is inserted into the pipe until it stops. Thanks to this improvement, water seeping into the gap between the nozzle and the divider is directed along the water breaker collar to the irrigation zone. The watering device reduces water consumption and increases the convenience of using the watering can. When applying liquid fertilizer, the divider is removed, and the solution flows through the nozzle. The collar prevents fertilizer from flowing out of the feeding area through the pipe and watering can.
Rational watering canA standard garden watering can, with 2 handles (top and back) on a cylindrical body, is extremely inconvenient. Firstly, you have to carry a full watering can while holding your hand up, which is quite tiring. Secondly, watering with such a watering can is also inconvenient: the center of gravity shifts as it decreases, and it is impossible to intercept your hands, since their position is fixed.
Watering can with oval body and handle curved shape much more rational. The design will allow you to occupy only one hand, and as the center of gravity changes, it can be intercepted. This type of watering can is more comfortable to carry than a cylindrical one, and the arc-shaped handle runs along the body.
The most important advantage of this design is the following: the gardener can water the beds with 2 watering cans at once, which significantly reduces the time required to care for the plants. The capacity of the oval watering can varies. The watering can is made from galvanized sheet iron. A hoop is attached to the oval body for strength. Its edge should be slightly lower than the bottom of the watering can. It’s good if the spout is 1.5 times higher than the body. This will make it possible to water plantings located at a great distance.
Original nozzle for watering canOr you can make an original attachment for the watering can. To do this, a piece of steel or roofing sheet is cut and bent. With its help, such a nozzle is convenient for watering the ridges with liquid fertilizer. In this case, the mesh of the watering can does not become clogged, and the stream from the nozzle is fan-shaped.
As a rule, gardeners are not content with 1 – 2 types of crops grown on the plot. A different plants require different care. The same applies to such a simple operation, at first glance, as watering. There may be only one watering can in a household, but to increase its versatility, you need to at least have a similar set of attachments.
Set of accessories for watering can. 1 – general form, 2 – nozzle with a strainer facing upwards for watering tall plants, 3 – nozzle with a strainer facing forwards for watering plants of medium height, 4 – nozzle for watering with fertilizer solution, 5 – nozzle for watering holes, 6 – attachment for watering can for fine drip irrigation.
Homemade sprayer
Simple and reliable device. Air is supplied into it using hand pump. The device is mounted at the end of a pole 1.5 - 2 m long and is used to process the crowns of fruit trees.
Take the most ordinary canister (capacity 10 - 12 liters). A fitting from a bicycle inner tube is pressed into the handle, to which a hose 1.5 m long is connected. A hose with a sprayer is connected to the bottom of the container. Its end is attached to a pole. When using such a device, safety regulations must be strictly followed. It is strictly forbidden to spray trees with pesticides without using personal protective equipment.
Homemade sprayer. 1 – support rail, 2 – tap, 3 – canister, 4 – pump.
Universal sprayer
Water in the garden for spraying plants is taken from the main line. For this, from her to garden plot make a branch and place a shut-off valve on it and check valve. From pipes with a diameter of 15 - 20 mm, several taps are cut in for dispensing water and connecting hoses with a sawing tip. The higher the water pressure in the network, the easier the gardener’s work.
Spraying scheme (a) and device for feeding plants (b). 1 – main water supply, 2 – outlet, 3 – shut-off valve, 4 – water tap, 5 – pipeline, 6 – hose, 7 – tip, 8 – check valve.
For spraying, use a proportional dispenser. Its operating principle is quite simple. Reducing the diameter of the pipe (for example, at a faucet) causes a drop in water pressure. By inserting a container with chemicals into this place, turning the tap valve changes the concentration of the solution used for spraying.
Plants on the site are sprayed clean water by connecting the hose to the nearest tap. To feed plantings or protect them from pests, various dispensers are used. They are installed either on the pipeline or next to the tip.
The tank with the solution is attached directly next to the tip (Fig. b). As a rule, all devices are made from scrap materials. In this case, the dispenser is made from old barrel And plastic bag, the dimensions of which slightly exceed the dimensions of the barrel. Scheme of operation: the barrel is disconnected from the water supply using a 3-way tap. The solution is poured into the bag through a funnel. He, through drain valve, displaces water from the barrel.
Once the bag is filled, the tap is opened, and now the water displaces the solution.
Drinking ringMake similar device is not difficult: you just need a rubber hose (about 10 m long) and a tee. Small holes are made in the hose at an equal distance from each other. After this, the hose is rolled into a ring (1 m in diameter) around the barrel fruit tree, and the ends are put on a tee connected through a tap to the water supply. The pressure is given such that streams of water are immediately absorbed into the ground without forming a puddle.
An almost ideal method of watering: using it, you do not need to dig an irrigation ditch, which can harm the roots, or loosen the soil: a crust does not form on it during ring irrigation.
And most importantly, the water is evenly distributed under the crown, without flooding the neck of the tree.
Mechanized water intake from a sourceAll “landowners” know: mechanized water intake for irrigation is associated with at great expense energy, and therefore financial. Therefore, the opportunity to reduce energy costs naturally attracts many gardeners.
It is not at all difficult to make a wind-powered water intake installation. To harness wind energy, a wooden riser is placed directly above the well. A rod with an impeller is attached to it on top. This turns out to be the drive shaft. A driven shaft is installed in the well itself, below the water level. The drive is carried out using a porous rubber belt.
The impeller, under the influence of the wind, rotates and drives the belt. He raises water from the well. The water is squeezed out of the belt using a special device (it is similar to squeezing out an old washing machine), and it ends up in the catch basin. The upper shaft with the impeller is mounted on an annular float so that it can turn in the direction of the wind. The belt is made from almost any material, but it must quickly absorb water.
Water supply using wind. 1 – driven shaft, 2 – porous rubber belt, 3 – water collectors, 4 – ring float, 5 – drive shaft, 6 – shaft, 7 – impeller.
Automatic watering
A platform is built on a free area and a container is installed on it. Its dimensions depend on the size of the garden (can be from 1 to 10 m3). There is a valve at the bottom of the container to release water.
Next to the large container they place a smaller one - a kind of water clock. It contains a 40 mm thick foam float (or a rubber ball). The water clock is equipped with a release device into which special gaskets are inserted. Such inserts (up to 10 pieces) are made of aluminum. The holes in the inserts vary in diameter: from 0.1 mm to 1.4 mm. Each hole corresponds to a specific watering interval. If you can pour any water into a large container, then only clean water into a small container, otherwise the water clock will become clogged. Water from them, through a calibrated hole, seeps out gradually. Simultaneously with the water level, the float also lowers.
Device for automatic watering . 1 – rod, 2 – stand, 3 – microswitch, 4 – switch.
When it takes a certain position, a simple device (a lever with a weight and a cable) will pull the large-capacity valve up. Drainer will open and water will flow through the pipes to the plants.
Holes are made in them at certain distances. Water seeps out through them, moistening the soil.
When the water is poured out, the rod lowers and turns on the electric motor using a microswitch. The container is filled, the rod rises and closes the switch on the stand.
Attention! This is an introductory fragment of the book.
If you liked the beginning of the book, then full version can be purchased from our partner - distributor of legal content, LLC liters.
I was doing plumbing at the dacha, and I had some scraps left over polypropylene pipes 20 mm diameter, couplings and valves. When I got tired of moving them from place to place, I decided to adapt it all somewhere.
Once, while watering the garden at the dacha, my hose nozzle broke once again. And I thought that a good tip could come from my leftovers. I figured out what and how, sketched out a drawing of the product and began to implement my plan.
The nozzle should consist of the following parts - two pieces of polypropylene pipes, a polypropylene coupling with external metal thread, a valve and a shower head. To begin with, I tried cutting threads into pipes with a diameter of 20 mm - this diameter exactly corresponds to a 1/2-inch die.
Cutting the thread turned out to be simple: one end of the pipe was clamped in a vice, and the other end was threaded. The die did the job perfectly.
I screwed the threaded pipes into the valve on both sides. Interestingly, when screwing in, FUM tape was not even required: the pipes were screwed in with great interference, so that the tightness of the connections was ensured. The valve I have is a ball valve, with a long handle, which can easily be used to regulate the required water pressure for irrigation.
Then I welded a coupling with an external metal thread to the pipe, onto which the shower head is screwed.
I have a machine for welding polypropylene pipes, and I coped with this without any problems. Welded polypropylene products fast and simple. It is enough to insert a pipe into the heated nozzle of the device on one side, and put on the appropriate fitting on the other. After five seconds of heating, both parts can be removed and connected.
And after two minutes the plastic cools down - and a strong and tight connection is obtained. I screwed a shower head without a handle with a 1/2-inch internal thread onto the thread of the coupling - I have quite a few of these in my household. From the other end of the nozzle for better connection with a hose, I wound several turns of PVC insulating tape around the pipe. The hose was pressed onto this thickening and secured with a clamp.
As a result, I got a nozzle no worse than the factory one. It is very durable, not afraid of impacts, and smoothly regulates the water pressure.
After testing the product on watering plants, I made several more of these devices of varying lengths. Long nozzles make it very convenient to water plants right to the roots - you don’t have to bend over too much. Since I have a lot of hoses at my dacha, I also made a lot of attachments. And now, when watering, you don’t need to attach a nozzle to each hose; each one has them.
But the pipe scraps still remained. Therefore, I made a device for pouring water into barrels and other containers. It is a hook that hooks onto the edge of the container. At the bottom of the hook I welded a coupling with an internal metal thread. And now, when I need to fill the barrels, I unscrew the shower head and screw this hook in its place. With its help, the containers are filled as if by themselves - there is no need to stand nearby all the time and hold the hose in your hands. This is how I used seemingly unnecessary waste and turned it into useful things for the summer resident.
Do-it-yourself hose nozzle - manufacturing progress
- Of course, it’s a pity to throw away such unplanned leftovers.
- To cut the thread I used a regular die.
- When welding polypropylene pipes, a strong, sealed connection is obtained.
- There are a lot of old shower heads at the dacha.
- I made a lot of nozzles for watering - one nozzle for each hose.
- Connection of the nozzle with the hose.
- Watering has become more convenient.
- I made the nozzle for pouring water into the barrel in the form of a hook so that it could be hooked onto the edge.
- To connect the hook to the nozzle, I unscrew the shower head and screw the hook in its place.
- It has become convenient to fill barrels and containers - just open the valve.
Homemade nozzles made from PVC pipes - photo
Homemade hose nozzle - drawing
Rice. 1. Arrangement of watering nozzle: 1 - shower head; 2 - coupling with metal external thread; 3 - welding; 6 - polypropylene pipe with thread; 5 - valve; 6 - polypropylene pipe with thread; 7 - PVC electrical tape.
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Of course, this one was made in an archetypal manner. No grace, no design, and the glamor is also so-so... But, as Lyolik said, “but it’s cheap, reliable and practical.” What else do you need?? A problem arose a long time ago for me: by the fall there was an almost full barrel left, and the time for fertilizing had passed... Well, I didn’t have time.
And all in such sad feelings, I walk past the landfill and see a watering can. Well, non-galvanized, well, rusty... Without attachments, of course. But durable. Well, in part appearance, the mirror told me a long time ago that I should show off less. It works - and that's fine. This is the watering can I specified for the byaki. But so as not to bother with straining it from any soggy organic matter,
It’s not her strainer that’s gone crazy, but this design. Just a piece roofing iron, cut from the sides, the upper platform is slightly curved upward and the lower one is wrapped around the spout of the watering can and tied with a piece of wire. Well, to hold on. And that’s it... And all the love to the penny. But who knows what will get clogged with. Although of course the nose should have been made narrower...
Conventional nozzles on a watering can provide an area of narrow jets. This gives a line of falling water. Well, by moving the line back and forth, we will just get watering of the entire area... In general, I dragged the barrel of byaka over the harvested beds, and this time, remembering the sawdust embedded in the bed and the byaka that was not rolled out in time,
connected one to the other... It turned out in at its best. The barrel was drying, the barrel was covered in sawdust, the neighbors were on edge, it was very free around me when I was riding home on the subway. The only negative is that the watering can runs out painfully quickly, so you have to run around and refill it every now and then. Still, she needs to hammer a plug with a hole inside her nose.
Well, that’s all, in general... How this one is made, if anyone wants, you can see from the photographs how it works, I hope you can also see it...
Good luck.
