Make a cut in the chipboard under the glass. PVC profile for framing the ends of chipboard

Once you've mastered carpentry skills, it's great to show off your homemade furniture to family and friends. What could be more pleasant than touching something that has been polished to perfection? razor sharp blade, smell the wood, feel its texture, and then make a clean, fresh cut!

This article covers basic carpentry techniques. How to use carpentry tools to get various shapes, joints and textures of wood. If you're unsure of a technique or type of wood, it's worth experimenting with scrap wood. Put your workshop in order and maintain it. Some craftsmen sharpen hand tools, clean out their workshop, and clean all their tools and machines before starting a new project.

Wood preparation and marking

Once you've decided what you'll be doing, separate your carefully selected and planed lumber into groups. Mark each piece according to its future place in the product, mark the top, bottom, front surfaces and best edges. Using a pencil and tape measure, mark the sections of the required length, and use a square to mark the cut lines. Use a compass to draw arcs and circles. Using a dividing compass, transfer the dimensions from the drawing to the wood.

If you need to make the board narrower or mark a joint, set the thicknesser to the desired division and scratch the mark by moving the thicknesser along the edge of the workpiece. Use a small pencil to mark lines running at oblique angles. If you need paired parts, mark them at the same time and remember that one part should be a mirror image of the second. Use a knife to mark connections.

Curved cuts

Can be done with an electric hacksaw, jigsaw or band saw. The hacksaw is good for large radius cuts and thick wood, when the cutting line goes away from the edges.

Hacksaws are equipped with rotating bases that change the cutting angle, and depending on the type and thickness of the material, different ones should be used saw blades. For curved cuts of small radius and wood thickness less than 50 mm, use jigsaw machine or jigsaw.

Install the new file and tighten it until it rings when you click it with your finger. If you need to cut an opening, you can do two things: either start cutting from the edge, or, if you do not need to touch the edge, first drill a hole in the part to be removed, then release one end of the file, pass it through the hole made and clamp and tighten again.

Use a drill press and Forstner bits to drill large holes accurately and accurately. Mark the center of the hole, attach the corresponding drill bit and set the depth gauge. Then press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench (this will take some time, but it will be completely worth it). If the hole is deep, lift the drill bit several times as you work to remove waste and keep overheating to a minimum. If you have to drill a lot of holes in identical parts, it is useful to make a template from scraps of wood, which is attached with clamps to the work table of the machine.

To drill holes for screws and installation holes for nails, you should use a drill, and it is more convenient to use a cordless drill. If you need to screw in a lot of screws, install the screwdriver included with this tool into the drill chuck.

Planing by hand

Planing is a lot of fun when the blade is sharp and you have enough time. The jointer is ideal for planing along the grain. Don't forget to secure the workpiece on the workbench. Make a test pass, make sure the blade is set to the correct depth, and then get to work.

A face plane is good for finishing sharp edges and for cleaning up ends. Position the blade so that it cuts the finest chips. When processing the end sections, try not to stray to the side and avoid chipping.

Selecting grooves manually

Mark the groove using a pencil, ruler, square and possibly the tip of a knife, and transfer the workpiece to the workbench drilling machine and use a suitable size drill bit to drill out the bulk of the unwanted wood.

Remove the shavings, clamp the workpiece in a vice and remove the remaining unwanted wood with a chisel, holding the tool vertically. By the way, there is an excellent one.

The groove can be selected using a cutter, and the working technique depends on the size and location of the groove. The router can be held in your hands and moved along the workpiece; when selecting an open groove, attach it to the work table and move the workpiece. In this case, the accuracy of the work will depend on the position of the guide bar (stop) and the height of the cutter. Always make a test pass using scrap wood. It is best to select a groove in stages and make several passes. After each pass, remove sawdust to avoid overheating the cutter.

Carving a tenon by hand

Mark the shoulder lines (the length of the tenon) with a square and a knife, then use a thicknesser to mark the height and width of the tenon. Remove any unwanted wood with a tenon saw. First, make cuts along the grain to the shoulder line on all four sides of the tenon. Then trim the tenon along the shoulder line across the grain. Clean the tenon with a chisel.

If you have a lot of tenons to cut (or if you just like working with machines), a table router is the ideal tool. If big size Since the workpiece does not allow you to place it on the milling table, it is better to press it with clamps to the workbench and process it while holding the router in your hands. Set the fence to the length of the tenon and the router to the desired height, then, holding the workpiece firmly against the fence, remove the excess wood in several passes. When the end of the tenon rests against the stop, turn the workpiece over and repeat the procedure on the other side. If you stop before the cutter reaches the shoulder line, trim the tenon with a chisel.

To select a groove 6 mm wide and 4 mm deep at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the board, do this. Attach the router to your workbench and install a 6mm router bit. Set the guide bar to 10mm. Adjust the height of the cutter so that it is 2mm above the table. Make a pass along the guide to create a 2mm deep groove. Turn off the router, raise the cutter another 2 mm and repeat the pass. You will get a groove 4 mm deep.

To select a rebate with a width of 10 mm and a depth of 4 mm, proceed as follows. You will need a straight cutter that is smaller than the width of the rebate (for example, 5mm in diameter). Set the stop at a distance of 5 mm from the rear edge of the cutter, and the cutter at a height of 2 mm. Place the board against the stop and select a 5 mm wide fold. Repeat the pass, still resting the board against the stopper, to obtain a 10mm wide fold. Switch off the router, set the bit to a height of 4 mm and repeat the procedures to complete the fold.

Press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench. Select a cutter that matches the width of the groove or a smaller size and set the depth stop. Press clamps onto the workpiece parallel to the groove wooden plank, which will serve as a guide. Lower the router, press its base against the guide, turn it on, wait until the router reaches full speed, and make a pass. If the cutter is narrower than the groove, move the guide and repeat the procedure until you get the required width and depth of the groove.

Milling shaped edges

Cutting shaped edges with a router is very simple. Attach the router to its table and insert the cutter of your choice - round, radius or shaped. Use a cutter with a support roller.

Move the stop so that it is not in the way. Press the workpiece against the table and make several passes with the cutter from left to right. Continue milling until the workpiece begins to press against the support roller - at this point the cutter stops cutting. If the shaped edge looks burnt, it means either the cutter is dull or you were pulling the workpiece too slowly.

Milling according to template

Use a template if you need to make several parts with the same edges. First, cut out the approximate shapes with a saw, leaving no more than 4-5 mm of excess wood on the edges to be milled. Install the guide roller on the base of the router. Cut a template from plywood with an allowance for the edges and nail it directly to the surface of the workpiece. Turn on the router and guide it along the edge of the template.

As a template, you can take an already made part and use a straight-cut cylindrical cutter with a support roller (it can be on top or bottom of the cutter).

This saw makes it easy to make cuts at any angle. Place the cutting blade on the frame at the required angle (90, 45, 36, 22.5 or 15°) and fix it. Set the depth gauge to the desired mark. Place the workpiece on the saw table, press it against the fence, and then make the cut using smooth back and forth movements.

Inspect the workpiece and decide where exactly you need to drive the nail. If this area is near the edge and there is a danger of splitting the wood, use an electric drill to first drill an installation hole using a drill bit whose diameter is smaller than the diameter of the nail. Then use a suitable sized hammer to drive in the nail. If the nail is crooked, pull it out with a nail puller or pliers. If you are driving very small nails that are difficult to hold with your fingers, use pliers to hold them.

Driving screws

You have a choice between mild steel screws, of stainless steel, brass or aluminum screws with straight or Phillips slots and countersunk or semicircular heads. Semicircular heads stand out clearly on the surface of the wood, countersunk heads are either flush with the surface, or edged with brass washers, or hidden by wooden plugs. The screws are screwed in with a hand screwdriver, a drill with an appropriate attachment, or a screwdriver.

When using a drill, install the locking mechanism so that the screw is screwed in to the required depth. If the wood is soft, the installation hole can be made with an awl; if it is hard, drill it with a drill of a smaller diameter.

To be able to hide the screws under the wooden plugs, you will have to drill a hole for the plug with a countersink drill and a corresponding cutter for the plug. Don't use steel screws on oak - they react with the wood and moisture and cause stains. Instead, choose plated steel, brass, or stainless steel screws.

If you want to make parts round section(chair legs, bowls, plates), you can’t do without lathe. Buy the most powerful and heaviest machine your budget can afford - with an adjustable chuck and faceplate set. Fusiform and cylindrical parts grind, securing the workpiece between the front and rear centers of the machine, bowl or plate - on outside spindle.

The best lathes are equipped with a device that allows you to turn large workpieces on the outside of the spindle. You will need a variety of turning tools - a chisel, a cut-off cutter, an oblique chisel and a radius scraper.

To cut a door handle or latch, you won't need anything more than a good, sharp knife (not stainless steel). Hold the workpiece in one hand, the knife in the other and cut the wood, pressing on the back of the blade with your thumb. The rest is a matter of skill. To practice, first experiment with soft linden wood, for example.

Installing hinges

The two most common types of hinges are decorative brass overhead hinges (attached with screws with countersunk heads, screwed flush with the surface) and steel mortise hinges (fastened in sockets with steel screws with countersunk heads). In the latter case, outline the hinge flap with the point of a knife, cut the outline with a chisel, and then select the wood with a chisel to the desired depth. The sash should fit tightly in the socket. Always buy suitable screws along with the hinges.

Sanding wood

To obtain smooth surfaces, numerous types of sandpaper (sandpaper) are used. The skin can be used either on its own or wrapped in it. wooden block. It is best to sand the wood several times - after sawing, after the glue has dried and after final finishing.

For the first sanding, use regular sandpaper, for finishing - fine sandpaper based on aluminum oxide (it is more expensive, but lasts much longer). For sanding large flat surfaces use a cylindrical grinder. Work in a well-ventilated area and be sure to wear a dust mask.

Natural wood finish

Originally, the term "natural finish" meant that the wood was sanded and left to in kind, now this concept also includes oil or wax treatment. Danish or teak oil is applied in a thin layer with a lint-free cotton cloth or brush.

Allow to dry and sand with the finest sandpaper to remove any ridges (the rough texture of raised wood fibers that occurs when the first coat is absorbed), then apply a second thin layer. If you want to make the surface less hard, rub it with wax mastic.

When finishing items that will come into contact with food, use a vegetable oil, such as olive oil, instead of teak or Danish oil. Rub it in with a cloth.

You have a choice between mineral spirits oil paint and waterborne acrylic paint. Both types of paint are applied with a brush. The visual difference between surfaces painted with one paint or another is very small, however, after working with oil paint, brushes should be washed with white spirit, and then acrylic paint- running water.

Oil paint fumes can cause dizziness and nausea, while acrylic paint fumes can cause a dry throat. Regardless of the type of paint you use, wear a respirator and work outdoors if possible.

Special types of wood finishes

When working with American oak, you can get an interesting texture by wire brushing the wood. The texture is pleasant to the touch, and the resulting rough surface means you don't have to worry about damage from pets' claws.

The brush is moved along the fibers until there are no untreated areas left on the surface, after which it is rubbed with oil.

A candle flame finish helps hide the imperfections of low-quality wood. Oil varnish is applied to the painted surface with a brush. After a while it dries out and becomes sticky, and then a burning candle is passed under the surface. Be sure to wait until the surface becomes sticky (it should show fingerprints) and keep the can of polish and brush away from the candle. It is better to do this work together somewhere away from the workshop. Practice on scraps before you get started with any serious work.

Along with the usual ones, PVC edging is used to frame the ends of the chipboard. As a rule, it is used in places of high humidity, high risk of mechanical damage, or based on design decisions.

A distinctive feature of PVC edging is that it is made immediately to a specific thickness of the slab, where trimming of excess width is not allowed. The most common width sizes are 16.18 and 32 mm.

Also, the installation technology of this profile does not allow it to be joined at the corners. For example, in order to edge two adjacent ends, you need to round the corner (at least along the very minimum radius).

• Invoice (U-shaped)
  • Hard
  • Flexible
• Mortise (T-shaped)
  • No girth
  • With girth

U-shaped edging

Working with such PVC edging for furniture is not at all dusty, and you can even do it at home.

Hard “click and done”

Used for edging straight edges of chipboard. It is also possible to edge the ends of chipboard with a small rounding radius. The only tools needed are your hands and the edge itself. Just snap the profile onto the end and you're done. And the side ends are closed with special plugs.

It is precisely because of this installation method that people love it. But it also has its drawbacks, which manifest themselves in the inability to edge rounded (radius) parts.

Flexible

This edging can be used as furniture edging for lining the ends of chipboard, both straight and rounded. For installation you will need a sharp knife and good glue. If there are concerns about moisture penetration, use silicone sealant in excess instead of glue.

To improve adhesion between the edge and the end of the chipboard, the inner surface of the profile can be scratched in different directions with a sharp object (knife, screwdriver, scissors).

The rigidity of this profile is also affected by the room temperature. Therefore, it is recommended to stuff it in a warm room, where it becomes softer and more “obedient”.

Everything else is simple. Apply glue or sealant to the inside of the edge and glue it to the end of the chipboard. Iron it thoroughly and also remove excess glue. We trim the edges of the edging only after two hours of exposure, when the glue has set. Well, complete drying of the glue will occur only after one day.

You can trim the excess profile to length sharp knife or garden pruning shears.

PVC mortise T profile

T-shaped edging is quite often used in manufacturing modern furniture. This is not surprising, since it has a number of undeniable advantages:

• Chic appearance (structural, matte, glossy and reflective surfaces),
• Sturdy mount
• Hides chips and unevenness at the ends of the slab,
• Easy to install on complex parts with both outer and inner radius.

The only negative T-profile PVC You can call it the need to mill a groove. For milling we need manual frezer with a 2.8-3 mm cutter, as well as a special room, since there will be a lot of dust, and we don’t need it at home.

But still, this minus is not so terrible as to completely abandon this type of edging of the ends of chipboard.

Types of T-profile

Mortise T-shaped profile can be:

• No girth
• With girth.

It can also be:

• Solid,
• Soft.

A mortise edging without a girth is used quite rarely, because it is not able to reliably hide the unevenness of the end and protect it from moisture and debris.

The mortise T-shaped profile with a girth (with antennae) is quite popular. It is especially popular when edging curved and radius parts that are being cut (in these cases it is simply irreplaceable).

Usually, after cutting a part with a jigsaw with a low-quality cutting blade, chips form across the entire surface of the end, which a regular furniture edge cannot hide. Therefore, only a T-shaped mortise edge with antennae should be used here, and the larger they are, the better.

When choosing a mortise edge, give preference to a rigid profile. Do not take a soft edging; you will suffer a lot with it both during installation and when using the part itself.

The fact is that the soft mortise edging is quite flimsy and when driven into the groove, its leg will bend and break very much. Even if you fill it properly, it will constantly bend back, thereby always getting debris under it. Also, all the potholes and unevenness of the end will be visible under it. And this will negatively affect the overall appearance of the product.

The ideal solution would be a mortise T-shaped hard edge with large antennae.

For installation we will need:

• Manual electric router,
• Edge cutter with a tooth thickness of 2.8-3 mm and a depth of at least 10 mm,
• Rubber hammer.

The first step is to make a high-quality groove at the end of the chipboard. It should be located strictly in the center (16 mm in the slab - exactly 8 mm from the edge).

We make the groove with a cutter with a tooth thickness of 2.8-3 mm. For reliable fastening, the width of the groove should be 0.5-0.7 mm less than the thickness of the tenon (T-leg) of the edge, and the depth should be at least 10 mm.

If suddenly the groove turns out to be very wide, you will need to use glue or liquid nails. But it will take additional time for it to dry.

Before stuffing the T-shaped PVC profile, the end must be cleaned of chips and sanded with sandpaper.

When driving the edge into the groove, bend the profile towards you. This is done so that the antennae do not rest against the edges of the end, but immediately wrap around it on both sides.

If you are putting edging on parts with a large outer radius, for example, on a rounded corner, then in order for the profile to fit normally and not form an “accordion” in the leg, you need to make a cutout in it.

When stuffing, use only a rubber mallet! With a regular hammer you will simply ruin the edge.

If you use PVC edging with a reflective surface, then protective film should be removed after all installation work, only on the finished product.

The video below shows the operation of the machine for milling the end for installation of a mortise T-shaped edge:

And here is a semi-automatic machine for driving in a T-shaped edge:

After cutting chipboard or laminated chipboard on the part, an open end edge is formed, which must be closed for the following reasons:
-give an aesthetic appearance to the workpiece (part);
-reduce formaldehyde fumes;
-protect the end surfaces of workpieces from minor mechanical damage;
-protect the end surfaces from moisture entering the slabs.

There are also edges that act as shock absorbers (SOFT edges) and are used for the manufacture of children's furniture.
Let's look at some methods for sealing the end surfaces of chipboard and arrange them according to the rigidity of the end surface. The hardest surface will take first place.

MORTASE EDGE (PVC)

In the cross-sectional drawings we see several different edges.

To install them, you need a hand router

make a groove along the entire length of the end, the required width and depth.
The width of the groove is formed by a milling cutter,

after passing which, it should be 0.5...0.7 millimeters less than the thickness of the spike. The depth of the groove can be 6...10mm, depending on the length of the tenon.

Step-by-step instruction.
1. We grind (grind) the edges of the laminated chipboard end with fine-grained emery cloth.
2. Select a cutter of the required thickness and diameter and install it in the center of the tenon seal.
3. Mill the groove of the required size.
4. Apply PVA glue or “liquid nails” to the outer surface of the tenon.
5. Gently hammer the edge with a rubber hammer until it fits snugly against the surface of the end.
6. Trim the ends on both sides and finally align them with the end surfaces.

EDGING EDGE

Overhead plastic profile does not require the use of expensive tools. There is no noise or dust during operation.

To install the profile we will use glue and a knife.

1. Sand the end faces.
2. Lubricate the inner surface with liquid nails glue or silicone sealant.
3. We will put the profile on the end of the chipboard.
4. Remove excess glue or silicone sealant and wait for the glue to dry completely.
5. Trim the ends and align them with the end surfaces.

In curved sections, the profile must be fixed and pressed against the end surface. This can be done using masking tape.

FURNITURE EDGE

Paper or plastic tape that is glued to the open end of a chipboard part.
The thickness of the edge can be different - 0.4...5mm. The thicker the edge, the higher its strength characteristics, so the ends in hard-to-reach places are covered with a thin edge, and on the contrary, the ends in easily accessible places are covered with a thick one. The width is selected according to the thickness of the slab, plus a processing allowance of 2...3 mm.

1. Check that the glue is applied evenly to the inner surface.
2. Press it to the end and heat it with a hairdryer or iron.
3. Cut off the ends and clean them. If light stripes form, they can be sealed with furniture wax, stain or a solution of potassium permanganate.

Material classification:
-melamine edge (a paper strip that is impregnated with urea (melamine) resins and treated with varnish);
-PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
-ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene);
-PP (polypropylene).

We know how to choose materials, construction fasteners, and how to seal the ends of the selected material. Having studied the proposed material, you can begin to independently manufacture furniture that you yourself invented and designed.

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Beautiful, high-quality furniture always has a visually finished, seamless look. A professional designer must think through all the little details, right down to the shape of the legs, types of fastenings and finishing of the ends. Homemade cabinets, tables, cabinets and other joinery made from chipboard are no exception. To bring manufactured items to perfection, you simply need such interesting detail, as an edge for ends.

What is an edge for chipboard

An edge is a special tape made from various materials that is glued or cut into the ends of parts made of laminated chipboard. Its main purpose is to protect the edges, decorate and give a spectacular look. finished product. Significantly facilitates and speeds up the production process, at the same time it is a cheaper analogue of such production stages as:

• Postforming– wrapping a sheet of laminated plastic or resin paper around the end. In this case, the edge of the product is given a rounded shape, then a polymer coating is applied. It is used for countertops, furniture parts for bathrooms and kitchens, moldings. Provides complete protection against the destructive effects of moisture on chipboard.
• Softforming– similar to the previous one, but applied to products complex shapes. Ensures safety and tightness of furniture ends.

Types of edges

There are 4 types of end tape - melamine, PVC, metal and acrylic. They differ in their characteristics, the raw materials used, the decorative surface and the methods of attachment to the base.

Melamine edge

It is made from thick paper, which is impregnated with a thermosetting polymer resin - melamine. After drying, the semi-finished product is glued onto a papyrus backing. Some species are also treated with industrial adhesive mass to speed up the fastening process. It has a standard thickness from 0.2 to 0.4 mm, a smooth or embossed decorative surface, more than 140 shades and decors, including various types of wood.

Melamine tape is attached to chipboard edge two ways. The first of them is using an iron (suitable for cross-cutting with an adhesive base). The following will be useful as auxiliary tools:

• a construction knife, drill or electric machine with a felt attachment for removing scraps;
• rubber spatula or solvent 646 to remove excess glue;
• a tube of instant glue (Bison, Moment) for gluing lagging areas;
• a press, a wooden block with felt, a spatula or a small roller for rolling wallpaper;
• stops for fixing the part;
• fine-grained sandpaper (“zero”).

The part is fixed on U-shaped stops, a melamine edge is applied and smoothed with an iron heated to approximately 180°. Next, you should press the still hot edge using a press, a block of felt or a wallpaper roller.

The correct temperature must be selected experimentally, that is, set the iron regulator to the maximum level and test it small area tapes. If the edge material begins to “wrinkle” or folds, then the heating needs to be reduced.

Excess edging is carefully cut off with a knife or drill with a felt attachment at low speeds. Exposed drops of glue can be easily removed with a solvent. Finally, be sure to go over the edges with fine-grained sandpaper at a 45° angle to even out the edges. To get acquainted with the details of the process, watch the video:

The second method of fastening is using a heat gun (can be replaced with a hairdryer) and a glue stick. Apply the mixture evenly to the end of the part and the trim, carefully connect, roll or press with a press. Remove any exposed adhesive with a solvent, cut off the excess and sand it with sandpaper. To align the newly glued edge, you can heat it again and move it a little.

This method is considered more reliable, since the rough, uneven surface of the chipboard is better saturated with glue, which improves the adhesion of the edging to the base.

If there are small chips or defects at the end of the chipboard, they can be removed using acrylic universal putty, and after drying, carefully sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. Glue a construction bandage on top to avoid cracking of the putty mixture, and you can attach the edge.

PVC edge

It is made from several types of thermoplastics, including ABC and PP. This type of end edges is highly resistant to water, household chemicals, mechanical and thermal effects. Standard thickness– 0.4–10 mm, width varies between 1–10 cm.

There are 2 types of decorative surface: smooth (glossy or semi-matte) or embossed (wood or shagreen leather). The choice of colors and designs is incredibly huge - about 5,000 variations, including neon patterns and fluorescent shades.

The difference between regular PVC and ABC is that the latter has increased rigidity, impact resistance and heat resistance. This allows the use of high-temperature adhesives for parts with complex shapes.

Several types of PVC edges are available:

1. T-shaped mortise edging (with tenon) , is fixed in the groove cut out with a milling cutter. It is very difficult to do such work on your own, since you need a perfectly even slot of the same depth. Milling machines can handle this task;
2. Overlay edging without girth – glued to the edge of the chipboard using a hair dryer and glue. However, you should be careful, otherwise you may get burned;
3. Overlay edging with girthU-shaped – is attached in the same way as the previous one. Thanks to its shape, it wraps around the edge of the product and perfectly masks minor defects (irregularities, chips);
4. Overlay edging with U-shaped girth – has rigid clamps, so does not require gluing. It is enough to preheat it with a hairdryer, and when the plastic edge softens, bend the “antennae” a little and attach it tightly to the end of the part. Can be adjusted with a rubber mallet.

Metal or aluminum edge

It is an aluminum finishing profile with a rich set of characteristics. Reliably protects the ends of chipboards from impacts, moisture, mechanical stress, and temperature changes. Thickness – 1-2 mm, width from 1.6 to 10 cm; some manufacturers have artificial thickening for built-in furniture.

The decorative surface is usually subjected to 3 types of treatment:

1. Shot peening or clear anodizing. The result is a solid silver shade with a mirrored or carved surface;
2. Standard anodizing, giving a wide choice of shades from semi-matte aged gold to black satin with gloss. This transformation allows grouting minor scratches and extends the service life of the material by 1.5 times;
3. PVC film coating, imitating the structure and many shades of natural wood.

Like plastic edging, aluminum edging is available in several variations:

• Mortise edging T-shaped with U-orF -girth - fits into the groove and is securely held due to its special design. Protects the ends and back of a chipboard product and hides minor defects. Suitable for kitchen and office furniture;
• Overlay edging without girth – inexpensive, sticks special composition, however, many manufacturers are already removing it from their product range, since it does not prevent chipping on the product;
• Overlay edging with C- or H-shaped girth – fastened with small self-tapping screws, the kit includes corners, connectors, plugs and slot strips.

The advantage of this edge is that it goes well with glass, plastic and wood products.

Acrylic or 3d edge

Colorful end tape, playing with more than 200 types of rich and pastel shades. It is produced using a special technology: a decorative finish is applied to the substrate, and the top is covered with a layer of transparent acrylic polymer, thereby creating a spectacular three-dimensional pattern.

The advantage of acrylic is that it is quite hard and durable, does not fade, and if necessary, it can be easily polished with ordinary GOI paste. Thickness – 2 mm, standard width – up to 10 cm. Can be glued even at home.

The decors correspond to such interior styles as techno, avant-garde, modern, minimalism. Not suitable for kitchen facades and countertops, as it can withstand temperatures up to +90°.

Available in the form of an overhead tape without a girth, less often with a U-shaped girth. It does not require additional heating; it is enough to use special glue (Homa Colloid, Acrifix or plexiglass glue) and a press.

Finally, we note that the main enemies of particle board are moisture, mold, and fungi. In order for the furniture to last for more than one year, you must definitely choose furniture with ends treated with edge tape, or carry out the protection yourself. The investment of money and time will be repaid by the long and good service of the joinery products.

The most common method of finishing the ends of cabinet furniture parts made of laminated chipboard is gluing or another type of edge with subsequent processing. Along with this, there is another common method of finishing the ends - cutting or gluing PVC edging. The edging is used, as a rule, in places with a high probability of damage to furniture during its operation, high humidity, as well as for design reasons.

Types of PVC edging.

Unlike edging, in which the excess is cut off during the edging process, edging is produced immediately for a specific slab thickness (the most common are 16 and 32 mm), cutting PVC edging to length is not provided for by the technology. There is also no provision for joining the PVC edging at the corners. To cover two adjacent ends with edging, it is necessary to ensure smooth transition- round the corner. The minimum possible radius of rounding is selected experimentally for each edge individually, since this greatly depends on the rigidity of the edge, the size of the sides, and the characteristics of the top (decorative) coating.

The edges of the edging can be either with sides (with girths, overlapping the plane of the material) or without them. Traditionally, edging with sides is used more widely for several reasons: it allows you to hide small chips of the laminate near the end of the part, protect the end from direct moisture, and is less demanding on accuracy technological process and stability of material thickness.

Furniture edging can be divided into two groups: mortise-type edging with a tenon (T-edging), overhead edging without a tenon (C-edging). The mortise edging is available both with and without sides. There is no overlay edging without edges. The technologies for finishing the end of a part with one and the other type of edging differ radically, but (subject to the technology), in terms of operational reliability and consumer qualities, C- and T-edgings are practically no different.

Examples of mortise edge profiles: without edges for 32 mm chipboard (photo on the left), with edges for 16 mm chipboard (photo on the right).

Mortise edge.

Mortise edging is the most common type of PVC edging. Since the T-edge has a tenon, for this purpose a groove (groove) of a certain width and depth must be made in the end of the chipboard, strictly in the center of the end (with the central location of the edge tenon). The main tool required for installing a mortise edge is a manual router with an edge cutter, or its stationary version - a milling machine. If there are no special requirements for the milling cutter, a device with a low power of 1 kW or more is sufficient, then the cutter should be selected according to a number of parameters. Firstly, the cutter must leave behind a groove of a certain width, namely 0.5-0.7 mm less than the thickness of the edge tenon. Since different edging manufacturers have different tenon thicknesses, ideally, to insert an edging into 16 mm chipboard, you need to have two cutters with tooth heights of 2.5 and 3.0 mm, and to insert a 32 mm edging, a separate cutter, or even two. However, in practice, for reasons of saving money, it is enough to have only one cutter with a tooth height of 2.6 to 2.8 mm. In the absence of runout of the cutter and the shaft (collet chuck) of the router, this tooth height can be considered universal, suitable for inserting the vast majority of 16 mm T-edges. To make a groove of a significantly larger width, milling is performed in several passes, with a change in the overhang of the cutter. If runout of the equipment and/or tool is detected, it is necessary to select a cutter with a lower tooth height, since runout can lead to a significant increase in the width of the groove. Secondly, the cutter must leave a groove of a certain depth. The depth of the groove directly depends on the length of the edge tenon, which can vary from 6 to almost 10 mm. Therefore, to be able to use an edging from any manufacturer (with any tenon length), you need a cutter that provides a groove depth of 10 mm or more. It is irrational to choose a cutter with an unreasonably high milling depth, since this reduces the resource of the cutter and leads to an increase in the load on the milling cutter. The sequence of operations when finishing the end of a laminated chipboard with a mortise PVC edging is shown below.

An example of measuring the thickness of an edging tenon for 32 mm chipboard.
The Italian edging has a thicker tenon and O greater rigidity (photo on the left) than Chinese (photo on the right).

An example of measuring the thickness of an edging tenon for 16 mm chipboard.
The Italian edging has a thicker spike, b O greater rigidity and height of the sides (photo on the left) than the Chinese (photo on the right).

Examples of inner edge width measurements
for chipboard 16 mm (photo on the left) and 32 mm (photo on the right).
Dimensions are approximate, depending on the edging manufacturer.

Edge cutter for mortise edging.
The groove depth W depends on the bearing diameter d1, cutter diameter D
and is found by the formula W=(D-d1)/2.

Step 1. Aligns the cutter to the center of the end with an accuracy of no worse than +/-0.5 mm.

Step 2. We grind (grind down) the edges of the laminated chipboard so that when stuffing the edging with the edges it does not chip off the laminate.

Step 3. Milling the groove.

The groove for the edging is ready.

Step 4.

Step 4. Trimming edge ends (photo left), sanding flush (photo right).

Ready.
The adjacent end can be covered with an edge, capturing the edging(photo on the right).

Using garden pruners.

It is convenient to cut the PVC edging with garden pruning shears, which have one persistent (not sharp) cutter, and the second is a working, sharpened one. The thrust cutter is thick enough and rounded so as not to injure decorative surface edging, and secondly, it is good to repeat its semicircular shape. The working cutter has a one-sided sharpening, that is, one side remains flat, this allows you to press the cutter tightly against the end of the chipboard and trim the edge flush in one motion, without subsequent sanding with sandpaper.

Small garden secateurs for trimming edging 16 mm. To work with a wide 32mm edge, it is better to choose a larger model.

We press the stop cutter tightly against the semicircular surface of the edge, press the working blade with our finger against the end of the chipboard, and perform the trimming.

High-quality cutting in one motion. With some skill and a sharply sharpened blade, pruning shears can cut very narrow strips of edge.

Overlay edging.

Installation of the overlay edging does not require the use of power tools, the work is not dusty and can be done even at home, all you need is a knife and glue. It is necessary to prepare the inner surface of the edge, namely, apply deep multidirectional scratches in order to improve the adhesion of the glue. Any sharp object is suitable for this operation: a knife, scissors, a hacksaw blade, etc. After the surface is scratched, it is necessary to apply glue to the inner surface of the edge, for example, the well-proven “liquid nails”. If there is a need for maximum protection against water penetration under the edging, then instead of glue you need to use silicone sealant, applying it in excess.After applying the glue, the edging is sequentially put on the end of the part, leaving small allowances at the ends. Exposed adhesive must be removed immediately. If necessary, paper (painting) tape will help to temporarily fix the edge (for example, near curved areas). After the glue has dried (for “liquid nails” - a day), cut off the edging allowances flush. The need to wait for the glue to dry is the main disadvantage of using an overlay edge compared to a mortise edge.

Step 1. We scratch the underside of the edge.

Step 2. Apply liquid nails glue.

Step 3. We put the edging on the end of the chipboard, remove the squeezed out excess glue.

Ready. The end of the laminated chipboard is finished with an applied PVC edging.
The ends are trimmed after the glue has dried.

Some subtleties of working with edging PVC.

1. Priority in choosing should be given to the edging whose base color matches as closely as possible the color of the decor - the outer covering. This will help make possible minor damage (scratches) to the edge unnoticeable.
2. The size of the edging sides varies. Preference should be given to edging with a higher side height, this will allow you to cover very large chips in the laminate.
3. The stiffer the edge, the stronger it is and the better it can withstand impacts. As a rule, more expensive edges have greater rigidity.
4. The rigidity of the edge depends on the room temperature. It is recommended to stuff the piping at room temperature. Working at low temperatures requires special attention around the edging edge; it becomes rigid and can lift (chip off) the edge of the laminate.
5. Glue like “Liquid Nails” and some others are critical to storage and curing temperatures. The adhesive manufacturer's recommendations must be strictly followed.

The ends of cabinet furniture trimmed with PVC edging acquire excellent performance, strength and decorative characteristics. An edging with sides, mounted using sealing compounds, is a reliable and probably the cheapest decorative means of protecting the ends of parts from the penetration of water, which helps to avoid swelling of the chipboard.

For finishing the end laminated chipboard, MDF or plywood, a special melamine tape is used, which is sold in furniture hardware stores. Melamine edge is a tape on paper based, with which the end of a furniture board, such as chipboard and MDF, for example, is sealed.

There are other materials for finishing edges: PVC edge, PVC profile, edge made of natural veneer etc. But melamine edging tape is still the most popular due to its ease of use.

Today we will look at how to edge furniture boards using this tape.

We recently talked about how and what you can do with a regular circular saw. After cutting for further use the cut must be finished with edging tape, which you can easily select according to size, color and texture in any specialized store.

This is what a neat cut of plywood looks like, which we are going to use for shelves in kitchen cabinets. But it hasn't been edged yet, so you can see all the layers of plywood when it's cut.

And this is what the same end looks like, but after edging:

Like? And it's quite easy to do. And fast. And inexpensive.

We take the edge by the edge, leaving a small margin.

On the inside edge tape an adhesive composition is applied, which is activated when heated. A simple iron is ideal for this.

Lightly iron the end with an iron, retreat 2.5 cm and cut off from the roll.

Now thoroughly iron the edge with an iron. If the melamine edge has slipped, there is nothing to worry about. While it's hot, it peels off easily. So just peel it off, straighten it and iron it again.

When the edge lies exactly as it should, take a smooth wooden block and, starting from the middle, pressing it tightly to the edge, move it first in one direction to the end, then in the other. But this must be done while the edge has not yet cooled down.

To extend the service life of furniture, chipboard edges are applied - applying PVC edges to the ends of the parts. Our company offers you edging, additives and other services for processing particle boards at affordable prices.

Why is it necessary to process the edges of furniture parts made of chipboard and laminated chipboard?

Edging chipboard and laminated chipboard significantly increases the service life of furniture;

The PVC edge protects the wood-based particle material from the harmful effects of moisture;

Chipboard, protected by an edge, is not subject to chipping and other mechanical damage;

Edging laminated chipboard and chipboard plays an important decorative role - decorating furniture with PVC edges significantly increases its aesthetic properties.

Contact us if you are interested in processing flagstone materials - edging, additives, etc. We will carry out this work in the shortest possible time, guaranteeing high quality parts, their durability and beautiful appearance.

Our production provides services for applying PVC edges with a thickness of 0.4-3 mm. This range allows you to create perfect shapes and surfaces of furniture parts.

We offer high-quality edging of laminated chipboards - the price is indicated in the table. As you can see, we work not only with our materials, but also with yours. You can purchase PVC edges at any place convenient for you, and from us you only pay for the edging service.

Cutting and edging of laminated chipboards is carried out using high-quality equipment. The application of straight PVC edges is carried out on a CHEISA machine - premium equipment. The curved edge is applied using an Italian VITAR machine.

PVC edge is a durable flexible tape made by extrusion from polyvinyl chloride granules and modifiers, the share of the latter in high-quality edge material being no more than 5%.

Advantages of PVC edges:

1. Strength . PVC edge material is resistant to mechanical damage. The edge can also protect the chipboard or laminated chipboard from such damage.
2. Moisture resistance . The edge perfectly protects furniture parts from moisture penetration, which makes it indispensable in the production of furniture for bathrooms and kitchens.
3. Chemical resistance . PVC edges can be washed and cleaned with any chemicals. It is very convenient to use furniture parts framed with such an edge in laboratories and hospitals, catering facilities, etc.
4. Heat resistance . PVC edges are not afraid of high temperatures or sudden changes.
5. Reliability . The edge is tightly glued to the end of the particle board, forming an almost invisible seam.
6. Durability . Resistance to action sun rays allows the edge material to maintain its original appearance - color, shade, brightness - for many years.
7. Flexibility . The edge is elastic, which allows it to be used for processing furniture of complex shapes.
8. High aesthetic performance . The edge is produced in various textures and colors, and can imitate the surface of wood or stone. PVC edges can be used in furniture processing for any interior style.

	Name of service	Price (rub./m.p.)
		Using customer materials	Using our materials
	PVC edge 0.4 mm (8-18 mm)
	PVC edge 0.4 mm (22-25 mm)
	PVC edge Egger 0.4 mm (8-18 mm)
	PVC edge Egger 0.4 mm (22-25 mm)
	PVC edge 2.0 mm (8-18 mm)
	PVC edge 2.0 mm (22 -25 mm)
	PVC edge Egger 2.0 mm (8-18 mm)
	PVC edge Egger 2.0 mm (22-25 mm)
	PVC edge 2.0mm 3D acrylic
	PVC edge 2.0 mm (chamber 40-60 mm)

Sawing and edging of laminated chipboards is carried out by our qualified craftsmen in the shortest possible time. By choosing our company, you will undoubtedly be satisfied with the quality of work and pricing policy. Especially for you, we offer packaging and delivery services for finished products.

To start cooperation, fill out the order form on the website or visit our office.

Contact us and get high-quality, reliable and beautiful furniture!

Sheet material based on chipboard and MDF, from which cabinet furniture is made, is covered only on two sides. The ends, after cutting the parts to size, remain unprocessed. The edge on chipboard is used not only to give the furniture a more aesthetic appearance. But also to protect chipboard and MDF from the influence of the external environment, as a result of swelling or drying out. In case of Chipboard process edging (lining, processing, gluing ends) helps make furniture safer - create a reliable barrier on the path of emission of formaldehyde resins and other harmful fumes.

Melamine edge on chipboard: cheap and cheerful

The easiest way, which does not require special skills or specialized tools, is gluing a melamine edge from chipboard made on a paper base. There is no trick to the question of how to glue an edge on chipboard with an iron: the edge material itself already has a layer of glue applied evenly on the reverse side. All that is required is:

• Press the melamine edge evenly to the end of the chipboard.
• Use a heated iron until the glue is completely melted and, accordingly, the edge material is glued.
• Cut off excess melamine and glue with a sharp, wide, short knife (shaped like a shoe knife) or an ordinary stationery knife.
• Gently sand the edges with fine sandpaper.

Melamine chipboard edges are glued at home. The process itself does not take much time and is not too “junk”, unlike sawing and sanding. The only waste will be the cut residues, which can easily be swept away with a broom when finished.

Plastic edge on chipboard: PVC and ABS

The main disadvantage of conventional melamine edging is its fragility. It performs well in use on the inner ends of furniture that are not subject to constant wear. On the visible ends (countertops, facades, open shelves) it wears out, chips, and takes on an unpresentable appearance. Another thing is the plastic edge for chipboard.

The most common two types: PVC edging (PVC) and ABS (ABS). Outwardly, they are practically indistinguishable, they are analogues, the differences are only in properties and composition. Both types are available different widths and thickness 0.4 mm, 1 mm and 2 mm, with and without adhesive base. An edge of 0.4 mm thickness or “one” is used on the internal boxes of furniture, and “two” on the table tops and facades.

PVC furniture edging is made on the basis of polyvinyl chloride, and ABS is made on the basis of acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. ABS edge is considered environmentally friendly because it does not contain chlorine and heavy metals, does not emit their harmful compounds when burned. Also, ABS as a material does not electrify, does not attract small debris and dust, exhibits less heat shrinkage when gluing and looks neater, smoother (without pressing) at the ends (if we are talking about a thickness of 0.4-1 mm). But it also costs more than PVC.

If you are interested in the process of gluing an edge to a chipboard, then it is much more complicated and requires additional skills and specialized equipment. In conditions furniture production plastic is edged on special edgebanding machines using high-temperature hot melt adhesives. There are manual edge banding machines for small productions.

At home, gluing a PVC edge onto chipboard is possible, but it will take more time. Step by step:

• It is important to prepare the end very carefully furniture parts for stickers, especially if a thick edge is used, 1-2mm thick. When a PVC or ABS edge adheres to the base, the glue can “rip out” the chips and the end will take on an untidy, lumpy appearance.
• If the PVC edge has an adhesive base, then it is heated with a construction hairdryer until the glue melts. If not, coat the end of the part with Moment glue and wait for it to dry a little for better adhesion.
• Then press the PVC (ABS) edging to the end (manually or roll it several times) and wait for the adhesive base to harden.
• Next, you need to carefully cut off the excess edges of the edging and sand it, giving it a uniformly rounded shape along the entire length of the part. Usually a milling cutter is used for these purposes. With some skill you can get by and hand tools– knife, file and sanding paper.

Decorative plastic edges: super glossy, metallic and 3D effect

Both PVC and ABS edgings are available in attractive glossy and metallic finishes to not only make furniture more practical and durable, but also significantly improve its aesthetics.

If you decide to choose exactly this type of edging for table tops and furniture facades with your own hands, then it is better to entrust the solution to the question of how to glue PVC edges to chipboard to a workshop that has the appropriate equipment. When gluing a glossy or metallic edge, there is too great a risk of accidentally scratching the surface of the end and thereby ruining the entire effect. On the other hand, the decorative border has protective layer in the form of a film, which can only be removed after completing the entire process of sticking, rolling and processing.

The acrylic 3D edge (PMMA), made on the basis of polymethyl methacrylate, deserves special attention. The decorative base is covered with a thick layer of transparent polymer, which protects the base from damage and abrasion. It also gives the edging an attractive 3D effect of a certain solidity, in which the edging does not look like a simple frame for the table top.

Overlay and mortise edges

This type of edging is more decorative. It does not protect furniture parts from swelling and drying out, but only gives an attractive three-dimensional shape to the ends. It is used only for the design of visible ends - facades, cornices, countertops, open shelves, etc.

As is clear from the name, the overlay (U-shaped) and mortise edge does not require a sticker (in rare cases, only additional fixation, support), it is attached using protruding parts, wrapping around the end of the part or cutting into a specially prepared recess in the center of the end. They make flexible overlay and mortise edges from PVC and use them to decorate tabletops in office and student furniture.

The aluminum end, which frames the facades and countertops of kitchens, premium-segment office furniture, reception desks, etc., deserves special attention. Since the aluminum end is not able to go around corners, additional accessories are required for its installation - internal and external corners. Sometimes craftsmen do without them, sawing and joining the end at the desired angle.

GROOTS CAN BE MADE EVERYWHERE

With a groove connection, the end of one part fits into a shallow groove cut across the grain of the other. This connection is an improvement on the simple butt connection. The groove shoulders provide decent strength. In fact, such a connection cannot be broken, for example, by pressing on a shelf. If it fits tightly, it can withstand oblique loads well, when the force is directed diagonally across the body. Installing back walls in cabinets or chests of drawers and bottoms in drawers further strengthens the entire structure. Finally, the groove makes assembly easier by defining the position of the parts and keeping them from slipping.

Using just two types of groove connections, you can make almost any body part. The main connection, where the groove engages the full thickness of the adjacent part, allows you to assemble bookcases, toy chests, hanging shelves or any other housings in which the side walls extend beyond adjacent parts (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Main groove connection.
Rice. 2. Modified groove/tenon connection.

If these "through" angles are unsuitable or unsightly, use a modified joint (Figure 2) called mortise/tenon.

Drawers are also boxes. They are easily made using a basic mortise joint and a mortise/tenon joint (Figure 3). Example ZA is the strongest of them; in examples ZV and ZS, you can weaken the front wall. If you want to hide the ends of the side walls drawer, shown at 30, cover them with a false front wall or use a quarter joint, as shown at 30, reinforced with nails or dowels.

Rice. 3. Grooves in drawers.

BASIC CONNECTION IN GROOVE

Sawing grooves on desktop circular using a set of groove discs is much faster than manually. But long or wide pieces are difficult to maneuver around the table. A pendulum saw solves this problem, but it has an inherent drawback - usually its console is not enough to cut across wide parts.

A router helps solve this problem. But this also has its drawbacks.

First, if you are selecting more than one pair of grooves, setting the ruler for each side can be time consuming. Therefore, use an insert with a width equal to the distance from the rib of the router base to the cutter. To install the ruler, slide the insert along the marked shoulder line on the work piece (Figure 4).

Rice. 4. Insert for router.

Second, the thickness of the workpiece is almost never matched to the cutter to ensure a tight-fitting joint. Solid wood parts can be planed or sanded, but plywood parts are difficult to trim. Cutting a groove to fit is more clear. But this requires two passes with a router - one for each shoulder.

Faced closely with the selection of grooves, you can make a simple device (photo A).

GROVING DEVICE

The device consists of two rulers (one for each groove shoulder) and two strips that rest on the edges of the workpiece. One ruler and one strip are T-shaped fastened at right angles. Gaps along the other strip and ruler allow you to install boards up to 300mm wide and select grooves up to 38mm wide. Two clamps in an adjustable bar rest against the workpiece and lock the fixture in place.

To operate, you need a set of guide bushings for the router. With bushings, the rulers should be slightly offset to the side relative to the width of the groove itself.

The device is made of poplar, but Karelian birch plywood or MDF is also suitable. The T-nuts and MB screws are recessed, so the router can slide along the rules without hindrance.

Having finished manufacturing, you need to make inserts for installing the rulers. Plane a piece of cutting board approximately 450 mm long, 150 mm wide and 20 mm thick to the same thickness along the entire length. It all depends on the size of the sleeve and the cutter. Leave the jig in place while you make and fit four inserts, each approximately 50mm long, about 25mm wide and equal to the thickness of the gaps. Ideally, the thickness of the inserts should be equal to half the difference in the diameters of the cutter and sleeve.

Precise adjustment of the inserts is accomplished by using them with rulers installed when routing on a short piece that has been sawed off previously. Loosen the adjustable ruler, place the scrap between the rulers and two inserts on each side.

Tighten the screws. Remove the inserts and trim and mill the groove. If the trim does not fit into the groove, adjust the thickness of the inserts.

OPERATING THE DEVICE

Marking the grooves is very simple. Determine the shoulder line for each groove by making a pencil mark on front side workpiece. You can put the two side walls together and mark all the grooves at once, or mark the second side wall after routing the first.

Once the jig is aligned and the cuts are marked, align the straight edge with the mark (photo C), lightly tighten the clamps and make a pass with the router, then move the jig to the next mark. A well-chosen groove should fit the tenon without gaps or backlash (photo D).

GROOVE/TENK CONNECTION

Like the main groove, the groove/tenon connection (Fig. 5) can be made in several ways: on a circular saw and by milling. Regardless of the method, the proportions of the connection are as follows: the tenon is about 1/4-1/3 of the thickness of the part on which it is cut, and approximately 1/4-1/3 of the thickness of the part with the groove. To guarantee tight and good connection It is necessary to cut the grooves a little deeper than the length of the tenons.

SAWING A GROOVE/TENK CONNECTION ON A CIRCULAR

Since this is a very simple connection, it is easier and faster to combine marking and installation. Check the settings on the scrap boards (Fig. 6 and 7).

It's easier to fit the tenon to the mortise, so make the mortise first. Set the depth of the cut by measuring or by eye, pressing the disc against the part in which the groove will be. Then set a ruler to cut out the inner shoulder of the groove (Fig. 6, step 2), make a cut in all parts with grooves, rearrange the ruler and cut out the second shoulders.

Narrow parts such as side walls bookcases, can be filed using dividing head, keeping the end of the workpiece in contact with the ruler while working. You can also attach a limiter to a ruler in front of the disk so that the end of the part rests against it.

The most accurate way to select a groove on a circular saw is to place the workpiece on the table and, pressing it against the ruler, cut out the shoulder. Then place the part on the end and cut out the thickness of the tenon. This method allows you to accurately control the thickness of the tenon, but it is inconvenient for long parts or those that are sawed across. It is better to make tenons on these parts using several horizontal cuts. After sawing the shoulder, press the piece against the ruler and use a dividing head to cut out the excess wood in several passes. Unlike the first method, here the thickness of the tenon depends on the thickness of the workpiece.

No matter how carefully the tenons are made, there is usually some variation in their size, especially when sawing into solid wood. Here we can advise you to cut the tenons a little thicker, and then, when fitting, trim them with a plane for the shoulders. The blade of a shoulder plane runs across its entire narrow sole, so you can cut right into the corner of a tenon shoulder.

MILLING THE GROOVE/TENK JOINT

For large and wide parts of housings or long and narrow parts, milling grooves is relatively simple and safe. Select a cutter of the correct diameter, attach a ruler to the base of the router and make passes with it, moving the ruler along the end of the part
(Fig. 8). Many routers are sold with a ruler, but to improve the quality of work, it must be pressed to the base with a clamp or screws.

The most accurate way to mill a tenon is to clearly set its thickness between the ruler and the cutter (Fig. 9). To support the base of the router, use a clamp to press a piece of thick board flush with the end of the workpiece.

HOMEMADE DEVICE FOR SELECTING GROOTS

Although the device looks complicated, it is quite easy to make (Fig. 10). Cut the workpieces to size, and then carefully plan the planes and edges. Then select a groove in the fixed bar for the fixed ruler using a few cuts on a circular saw. Then, to ensure a tight fit and square edges, use a sharp chisel to trim its shoulders. The half-wood connection on the adjustable ruler is made so that its upper surface is in the same plane as the fixed ruler.

Mill out all the cracks in the planks and rulers using a ruler pressed to the base of the router (Fig. 8). First, releasing the cutter approximately 3 mm in each pass, mill narrow through slots in several passes. Next, mill out pockets for the screw heads and T-nuts.

Small clamps are used as clamps. The pressure pad is a T-shaped nut at the end of the screw. The locknut prevents the pad from coming loose when it presses against the workpiece. Select the grooves in the adjustable bar so that the clamps can hide behind its edge.
Rice. 10. Device for making grooves.

(clickable picture)

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