Schemes and drawings of the location of blades in a concrete mixer. How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands

An individual household in the private sector is always permanent - new tasks and problems constantly arise that require not only ingenuity, but also the use of mechanization means. Such means include a concrete mixer, which a prudent owner will try not to purchase, but to make on his own. Not all home craftsmen know how to make a concrete mixer with their own hands, and innovative solutions to this problem give rise to many original and unusual solutions. More often homemade concrete mixers use the principle of forced mechanical mixing. This means that the solution in the container is mixed both by gravity (by turning during rotation) and by blades fixed in the container.

All self-constructed concrete mixers can be classified and divided into mechanical, electrical and autonomous units. Structures are also divided according to the type of drive and the type of solution unloading. The simplest drawing of a concrete mixer includes a tank for the solution, a frame on which it is attached, and a mechanism for rotating the tank.

Any homemade concrete mixer with your own hands has a gearbox as part of its design. It can be implemented in any way - a belt drive, a gear or chain system, a transmission without belts (contact drive): the main condition for the gearbox is to ensure slow rotation of the reservoir, about 25-40 revolutions per minute. The drum of the device can be driven by hands, an electric motor or a gasoline (diesel) engine. Also, concrete mixers can have a stationary or mobile design - it depends on the imagination of the inventor and construction needs.

Unloading the solution is organized in different ways. This can be a tank without a lid with concrete unloaded over the edge of the tub by simply tilting the concrete mixer if the axis of rotation is in a vertical plane. Also, the container can be fixed horizontally, and then the concrete is unloaded through the cut off upper edge of the barrel (tub). To do this, the tub also just needs to be tilted, which is ensured by the design of the unit.

With a vertically located tank, there is no need for a hatch - the solution is unloaded by tipping into a substitute container. The advantage of the design without a hatch is that there is no need to seal the lid, which means there is no need to complicate the device. A vertical tank can be loaded 60-70%, while an inclined or horizontal tank can be loaded 30-50%, so that the liquid solution does not splash.

There is no point in making any homemade concrete mixer larger than 1 cubic meter - the weight of concrete with a solution volume of 1 m 3 will be about 1.6 tons, which will greatly complicate both mixing and unloading of the solution. The most common design is a concrete mixer made of washing machine or from a metal 200-liter barrel for fuel and lubricants.

The next design feature of a home-made concrete mixer is the design of the mixing unit. It can be different: the blades are welded to the bottom of the tank if the drum rotates vertically; the blades are attached to the walls of the rotating container, and the container can rotate in both vertical and horizontal planes; the blades rotate horizontally or vertically in a fixed tank. To choose a suitable design, you should carefully study the drawings of different concrete mixers, compare them with your capabilities and the availability of parts.

Manual concrete mixer

A mechanical manual drive for rotation of a concrete mixer, made from scrap parts and assemblies, is the simplest design solution, and it is based on the principle of a rotator - the tank rotates using a curved handle, as on any well. Such a homemade concrete mixer requires significant effort, so the container is made of small volume, which reduces the productivity of the unit. The advantage of the design is simplicity and cost-effectiveness of manufacturing, autonomy and possible mobility. Disadvantages: small tank volume and manual labor.

Electric concrete mixer

A concrete mixer with an electric drive is more widespread among home craftsmen, as it greatly facilitates manual labor - it is enough to load the components of the solution into the container in the correct proportion, and the electric drive will mix the mixture in a matter of minutes. Unloading concrete in a concrete mixer in any structure usually occurs by dumping the mixture into a trough, and the residue is cleaned out with a shovel. Unloading is not automated due to the small volume of concrete solution being prepared.

The simplest design of an electric drive gearbox is on pulleys. Pulleys can be taken from any car or an old washing machine - the main thing is to choose the right number and proportions of gears to ensure slow rotation of the drum. Often, due to the inaccessibility of parts, the transmission of rotation to the drum is made from a combination of pulleys, chain or belt drive, etc. The advantages of an electric household concrete mixer are obvious: a minimum of manual labor, high speed of solution preparation, reliability, environmental friendliness and labor savings. There is only one drawback - you need electricity at the construction site.

The power of the electric motor is calculated in different ways: for an inclined or vertical concrete mixer - 0.2 kW per 1 liter of solution, for a horizontal tank - 0.15 kW per 1 liter.

Gasoline engine in a concrete mixer

A concrete mixer driven by an internal combustion engine or a low-power diesel engine has the only advantage that it does not require electricity to operate. Most often, such a homemade forced-action concrete mixer is designed to be mobile - on wheels. The drive for the drum can be made in any way, and the container itself can be made of a fairly large volume, since the power of any, even low-power, engine will be sufficient for high-quality mixing of the solution in a tank with a volume of 1 cubic meter or more.

The transmission of rotation to the first transmission pulley must be a chain transmission, since a gear is installed at the output of the internal combustion engine. This design is convenient in that you can carry out DIY repairs for all components and parts without exception, without contacting various services and workshops.

Concrete mixer from a washing machine

The easiest way to make a homemade concrete mixer is from a drum and other parts of a washing machine, since the washing container already has a pulley attached. All that remains is to make our own frame and attach a motor to us for mixing the solution. The advantages of a homemade concrete mixer are that the proportions and composition of the solution can be anything - with sand, fine gravel, fillers or expanded clay. Structural scheme such a concrete mixer is shown below:

The electric motor, pulley, reservoir, belt - all this is taken from the washing machine. All that remains is to make the hatch for unloading the solution yourself, and the metal frame on which the concrete mixer will be installed. To reduce the ratio of engine and drum speeds, a system of several pulleys is used, the diameter of which is selected individually, depending on the speed of the electric motor.

Inside the tank (which is made of stainless steel) blades are attached to mix the mixture. Since the walls stainless container are quite thin (about 1.5 mm), it is very difficult to secure the blades by welding - it’s easier to do everything with bolted connections. Drainer in the tank must be cut down and sealed with a metal patch on bolts. Since the design of the concrete mixer will be made with the rotation of the entire drum, the blades must be curved and attached diagonally to the length of two-thirds of the tank. The blades must be attached strictly symmetrically relative to each other and the axis of the drum - the imbalance and vibration of the drum when mixing the solution, and hence the service life of the concrete mixer, depend on this. The minimum gap between the blades and the walls of the container, especially in the corners, will ensure the absence of “dead zones” where the solution is not mixed.

There is no need to create a hatch for unloading the solution while the drum is rotating, and the solution will be unloaded through the top of the container. To do this, it is necessary to provide for the overturning of the concrete mixer by pivoting on the frame. The container for the unloaded solution should be slightly larger than the volume of the concrete mixer tank.

To make the solution splash less, and also to increase the volume of the prepared solution, a pear-shaped metal nozzle, tapering towards the end of the container, can be welded onto a stainless tank.

The most reliable frame manufacturing is from metal corner with a side of 45 mm. The frame can be made by welding, or bolted together. A wooden frame will swell from water, dry out and deform during use, so this design is used very rarely. A concrete mixer from a washing machine has a small capacity, but for private households in most cases you do not need a lot of concrete solution at once. In addition, such a concrete mixer will cost almost free, with the exception of a few parts that may not be at hand.

Safety precautions

Constant vibration during operation of the concrete mixer creates the danger of loosening bolted connections, so before each use of the concrete mixer, check all fastening points and welds.
Before turning on the concrete mixer, check its stability and secure installation on the ground.
Do not leave the unit running unattended.
Use protective equipment - goggles, gloves, wear thick work clothes.
Do not check the readiness of the solution while the concrete mixer is running!

The main advantages of a homemade concrete mixer are low cost and efficiency, availability of parts for repair and maintenance, and in some design options, mobility and autonomy.

How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands updated: November 6, 2016 by: Artyom

A self-assembled concrete mixer helps save time and makes hard work easy. From the article you will learn what and how to make this unit yourself.

Concrete mixer: what is it for and how to assemble?

Why do you need a homemade concrete mixer? The title itself already has the answer. This is a unit that is designed to mix sand and cement with water to produce concrete. Why concrete is needed, every schoolchild knows about this today. You cannot do without this material if you are going to build a house, or, say, improve the territory - so that there is a clean yard and smooth paths.

Of course, you can arm yourself with a trough and shovel and make concrete by hand. But why do you need Sisyphean labor when you can use a special machine for this? There is no point in buying a concrete mixer if you do not intend to take on construction contracts. It is much more interesting and economical to assemble it yourself. Moreover, an old two-hundred-liter barrel will do for this purpose.

The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required amount of concrete.

The device you end up with is reliable and easy to use. All you have to do is pour the ingredients into the drum in certain proportions and add water. The ratio of components depends on what you need the solution for. Usually, to get high-quality concrete, take one part of cement and add to it one part of sand and screenings (small pebbles). It is possible, and in some cases even necessary, to replace the components with a sand-gravel mixture (SGM).

Homemade concrete mixer from a barrel - advantages and disadvantages

An undoubted advantage in making a concrete mixer with your own hands will be a significant saving of money on purchasing a factory model. Besides, have you seen the equipment that most sellers offer? Even if you have an extra thousand and twenty rubles, you are unlikely to want to give them for a Chinese product of dubious quality. And then, if the Chinese can do it, then why are you worse? It is not the gods who burn the pots. Your unit will serve faithfully not only to you, but also to your grandchildren.

The disadvantage here will be, especially if you are not a technician by training, the lack of experience in the manufacture of such mechanisms. But if you are persistent and love to tinker, you will certainly succeed. Good, necessary details literally lying under your feet. Of course, they won’t come to you on their own. You will have to rummage through a pile of scrap metal in a garage or even a junkyard.

But don't be so scared. To make a concrete mixer at home you will need: a container (in your case old barrel), in which the process of mixing the solution will take place, an axis of rotation, an electric motor (if you are not going to rotate the drum by hand) and a frame for the base on which all this will be attached. As you can see, all ingenious is simple. You will learn how to prepare and what tools you will need to realize your idea in the next section of this article.

Preparation and tools

Before you start working on a concrete mixer, you need to make a drawing or at least a sketch of the future project and prepare the workspace. A garage or shed is best suited for this. The main thing is that electricity is supplied to it, because in this case you will need power tools. And the work with metal itself is quite noisy and dirty. Agree that a comfortable apartment is not the place where you can engage in such creativity.

Well, the drawing is ready, and you have prepared the place: you have removed everything that is not relevant. Now let's see what tools you need. If you don’t know this craft and will assemble the entire structure with bolts, you won’t need a welding machine. But you definitely can’t do without a drill. You will also need a set of screwdrivers and a hacksaw. And, of course, the main part of the future concrete mixer is a two-hundred-liter barrel.

It would be great if the bottom of the container was non-removable. Otherwise, it may simply fall off during the process of mixing the solution. The frame can be made from a metal corner. It is more convenient than pipes when connecting with bolts. You can install a gasoline engine or a motor from a drill-mixer as a motor that sets the torque. The main thing is that its power is at least 1.3 kW. And don’t forget to think about and install paddles inside the barrel for the most effective mixing of the components.

Important: the top lid of the barrel must be securely fastened, otherwise you risk covering the entire area with concrete.

In addition, even at the development and preparation stage, think about what kind of future concrete mixer you want to see - mobile on wheels or stationary. Then you won’t have to hastily adjust the drawings and make changes to almost finished design. If you have everything ready, then you can start the most interesting part - making a concrete mixer with your own hands.

How to make a concrete mixer - let's start making it

Let's look at the key stages of the work.

We assemble the frame of the future unit. It must be durable, because it will have to withstand enormous loads. For the base, a 130 mm steel angle is best suited. Since we decided to do without welding machine, then it wouldn’t hurt to tell you which bolts to choose for assembling the frame. The best option would be bolts with a diameter of 27 mm. The angle of inclination of the barrel to the base should be 35 degrees. If you have not found a suitable motor, you can make the drive manual. Of course, you will have to make some effort, but it will still be better than mixing concrete with a shovel in a trough.
Before placing the barrel on the gearbox (a device that converts the high angular speed of rotation of the input shaft into a lower one on the output shaft), you need to attach, say, a ring gear (a hardened steel disk with teeth) from a Volga engine to its bottom. Practice has shown that it is optimally suited for this purpose: it is made of hardened metal and has teeth on the outside.
If there is welding, then attaching the crown is as easy as shelling pears. But we decided to assemble the concrete mixer without using a welding machine. Therefore, we will attach the crown to the bottom of the barrel with bolts. Turn the barrel upside down and attach the crown to the bottom. Make marks on the bottom of the barrel with a core (a special rod with a sharpened end). Simply insert the core into the hole in the crown with the sharp end and hit the blunt end with a hammer. Then remove the crown and drill holes using a drill strictly according to the marks made with the core. Place the crown back on the bottom of the barrel so that the holes line up. Insert the bolts and tighten the nuts on them using wrenches.
We put the gearbox on the frame. We do the same as with the crown. We mark the place for the holes on the frame with a core, drill, bolt the gearbox to the frame, and install the barrel itself on it, first not forgetting to make blades in it in order to. Making them is also easy. You can simply fasten three corners along the length of the barrel with bolts at an equal distance from each other. We replace the small gear pulley with a suitable gear. This is what will set the heavy container of concrete in motion. In order not to suffer for a long time and not to reinvent the wheel, the small gear can be taken from the Bendix starter (Bendix is the starter armature shaft) of the same Volga.

The most important part of the whole machine is the engine. It must be securely attached to the bracket on the frame.

To tip a barrel of concrete, a steering wheel is suitable, not just a handle. Making it is not that difficult. Essentially, you can take a sleeve (a piece of pipe) and screw the rods into it radially. Then put it on the additional gearbox and secure it. But if such a design causes difficulties in developing drawings, then you can simply use a shovel ready solution from the container. Just remember to turn it off first and wait for it to stop.

Even though you will assemble the apparatus yourself to help mix concrete, this does not mean that you can neglect basic safety rules. Yes, they have already set everyone’s teeth on edge, and yet, traumatology statistics show that not everyone follows them. Remember them well, or better yet, write them in bright paint on your concrete mixer:

Do not, under any circumstances, climb inside a spinning barrel.
If you have assembled a unit with an electric drive, make sure that the power cord is in good condition.
Keep small children away from even a non-working machine.
If you have made a mobile structure, put a support under the wheels before you start using it.
When mixing concrete, strong vibrations occur. Therefore, monitor the condition of the screw connections and tighten them in time.
If possible, wear work gloves or gloves. Cement can cause an allergic reaction to the skin of your hands.
And never leave switched on equipment unattended.

Remember that you are responsible for your health and the safety of those around you! So, making a concrete mixer with your own hands is not at all difficult. In this matter, the main thing is the availability of all the necessary tools, materials and, of course, desire. But you will have an inexpensive and great tool, which may be useful to you more than once. By the way, you can rent out your concrete mixer to your neighbors and get a good increase in your salary from this.

It is difficult to even imagine any construction without technological processes using cement mortars. And for the owners of their own country house, with their constant state of “permanent” repairs and landscaping, concreting in general is a very popular operation - either garden paths need to be poured, then a foundation for a gazebo, then a blind area needs to be renovated, or a fence needs to be put up... In a word, literally on every each step requires the production of concrete - the only difference is the scale of the event.

Many individual builders prefer not to bother with mixing the mortar themselves - this can be avoided if there is a reinforced concrete plant or other enterprise nearby that provides services for the production of concrete and its delivery to the work site. But, firstly, it costs a lot of money. Secondly, this opportunity is not available everywhere. And thirdly, it does not always make sense to resort to such services for reasons of the small scale of the construction or repair task - it will either be simply ridiculous or extremely unprofitable. It’s easier to make the required amount of solution yourself. This, of course, can be done manually, but it is better to purchase (rent) a concrete mixer or show yourself as a real owner: for the future, make yourself a concrete mixer with your own hands.

The article will discuss several homemade models concrete mixers - from the simplest to those that are not much different from the samples presented in stores.

A short excursion - what types of concrete mixers are there?

By and large, you can cook without any equipment at all. Some craftsmen even like to work “the old fashioned way”, mixing nt with sand and other components (if necessary), and then gradually adding the required amount of water. For this purpose, large containers with low sides, factory-made or even home-made, knocked together from boards and lined with thin metal, are used.

Mixing by hand - how much time do you have to do this?

Some people prefer to do without containers altogether, simply preparing the solution on a prepared, level area. However, in any case, the procedure of mixing first dry components with a shovel or hoe, and then with water, is a very labor-intensive process that takes a lot of effort at the preliminary stage, before concreting begins. And if the work is planned to be quite large-scale, then this approach will not justify itself.

Prices for concrete mixers Vikhr

concrete mixer Whirlwind

Construction mixers or drill attachments - they are more suitable for dry building mixtures or composites polymer materials. Sand and cement for them is already a rather difficult “test”, and if there is still a need to add gravel, crushed stone or expanded clay of a large fraction, then the mixer or drill can be safely put aside: not only will you not achieve a high-quality, homogeneous mixture, but also and there is a high risk of overheating the gearbox or electric drive of the device.

Concrete mixers (concrete mixers) cope with this task, which differ not only in size, capacity and drive power, but also in the principle of their operation.

Forced mixing principle

Forced principle - the components of the solution are mixed in a stationary container. It is carried out due to the circular movements of the shaft with blades connected to a mechanical drive. (Work with construction mixer or a drill with an attachment can also be safely attributed to the forced kneading principle).

The installation layout may vary. Thus, the snare drum can be a vertically located cylinder small height, in which the paddle blades rotate on a vertical axis (as in the figure above).

Another option is when the container itself is located horizontally, and the shaft with blades is also oriented in a horizontal plane. Below is circuit diagram such a concrete mixer - who knows, perhaps it will serve as a prototype for someone self-made.

In the drawing the numbers indicate:

1 – drum body, in which the solution is mixed.

2 – a frame on which all components of the unit are mounted.

3 – Electric drive. In this case, with such dimensions of the mixer, the optimal power would be about 5 ÷ 6 kW.

4 – monitoring and control elements: power switches, indicator lamps.

5 – Bottom hatch (gate) – for unloading the finished solution into a container placed below.

6 – lever for opening the shutter.

7 – safety grid installed during kneading.

8 – gearbox for transmitting rotation from the electric drive to the working shaft.

9 – protective cover belt drive.

10 – safety clutch.

11 – a working shaft with blades installed on it for mixing the solution.

Unloading of the finished solution can be organized according to a different principle - the working drum is mounted on the frame not rigidly, but hingedly. When mixing concrete, it is locked in the working position. And in order to remove the finished solution, a container removed from the stopper, and with the help of a special lever it rotates in the suspension axles. The solution is unloaded into the substituted container through the upper loading hatch.

Another scheme is somewhat simpler, with a lever for tipping the container

Forced action concrete mixers make it possible to achieve very high levels of solution homogeneity. They are actively used in industrial conditions, in construction, and in private practice. However, they are not without quite significant drawbacks:

In a working container, it is often impossible to avoid the creation of “dead zones” - along the walls, especially in the corners. It is not easy to fit the blades with a minimum gap to the inner walls of the cylinder, especially since under such conditions there is a constant increase in wear of the rubbing parts.
Structural complexity - reliable sealed protection of rotating units (bearing blocks) on the working shaft from the aggressive effects of cement mortar is required.
It is almost impossible to prepare a solution with medium or coarse filler in such a concrete mixer. But for plastering and finishing work, using ready-made building mixtures, this is the most optimal option.

Gravity mixing

The gravitational principle of mixing - the components of the solution are mixed under the influence of their own gravity. A good example– place in glass jar two various product, for example, two types of cereal, close the lid and start rotating - mixing will begin.

It is clear that this approach in its “pure” form does not provide quality cooking solution, or will require too much time to achieve an acceptable consistency. In industrial conditions, this method is not used, but for home needs a small, simple concrete mixer can be made.

The drawing shows a can - it is convenient from the point of view of tightly closing the lid. But, in principle, almost any container can be used if the owner carefully considers the issue of securely closing it while mixing the solution.

The axis of rotation can be fixed outside the container - in this case, it is not necessary to ensure the sealing of the assembly as it passes through the wall. But it’s still better to make it through - such an artificial obstacle during gravitational mixing of the solution will somewhat improve its quality.

You can find a lot on the Internet interesting solutions for the manufacture of such simple concrete mixers from improvised means. Very often old iron barrels are used. Making a stand is something that probably no good home craftsman will encounter any particular difficulties with.

The most difficult thing, probably, is, again, to think through the issue of a tight-fitting hatch, which, when open, will allow loading of the mixture components and pouring water, and when closed, during mixing, will not allow leakage liquid solution. The approaches here may be different, but most often they use a door with welded hinges, the opening for which is sealed with rubber around the perimeter.

Some creative craftsmen complicate the design somewhat in order to improve the quality of concrete mixing. So, for example, to increase the amplitude of differences in height, the barrel can be positioned not along the “correct” axis of the cylinder, but diagonally.

Rotating such a concrete mixer, of course, is somewhat more difficult, but uniform mixing of the solution will be achieved faster.

Combined principle

So, it was mentioned above that the gravitational principle of mixing in its “ pure form» does not differ in productivity and high quality of the batch. You will probably hear objections - after all, it is believed, and many sources claim, that most conventional concrete mixers with a rotating drum located at an angle use precisely the gravitational principle. We can agree with this, but only by making one very important remark.

In such mixing devices, the blades are necessarily rigidly fixed on the inner surface of the working drum. Their configuration and size are thought out by the designers. When rotating, these blades move relative to the solution tending downward under its weight. Thus, in this case it would be more appropriate to talk about the combination of two principles - both gravitational and forced. And indeed, this is exactly how the vast majority of cooking devices are designed.

There are several advantages:

No sealing is required, neither the drum itself (it is constantly open at the top), nor the rotation unit (since no contact with the solution is assumed here).
Part wear is significantly less.
Such concrete mixers are simple and reliable in operation, easy to maintain.
There are practically no restrictions on the component composition of the solution - crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay, etc. can be used.

The manufacture of a concrete mixer of this type will be discussed in more detail.

By the way, let’s return for a minute to those simple concrete mixers-barrels mentioned above. If you show a little ingenuity, it is also very easy to modernize them, dramatically improving both their performance and the quality of the mixed solution. To do this, it is enough to triple the blades or any other artificial obstacles on their inner surface.

One of the options is shown in the diagram. In this case, a comb is used, which is easy to weld from a corner and a piece of reinforcing rod. Two such combs will immediately transfer the concrete mixer from the category of gravitational ones to the “family” of more advanced, combined ones.

Vibration mixing of solution components

Not so often, but still some enthusiasts try to apply the principle of mixing concrete mortar using vibration. In industrial conditions, such installations give excellent results and are used for the production of highly precise reinforced concrete parts with the highest performance characteristics.

And at home, craftsmen try to use a powerful one as a drive (the main thing is that its vibration action is independent and does not require pressing the cartridge against an obstacle).

It turns out something like this:

1 – body of the container in which the components of the solution are mixed. Preference is given to round, not too large in radius, but high tubs (barrels).

2 – a bracket is rigidly attached to the body, which houses a vibration pulse generator, in our case a hammer drill (item 3).

The power of the hammer drill must be at least 1.3 - 1.5 kW. Even this will not guarantee success, and with less drive force, it is not worth trying.

A long rod (pos. 4) is inserted into the hammer drill chuck, which is connected to a vibrator (pos. 6). This rod must be of such length that the disc vibrator is located in height approximately in the center of the layer of the prepared solution (item 5).

It seems that everything is simple, but such a diagram does not always show good results. Mistakes most often lie in neglecting seemingly small nuances:

A flat vibrator simply won’t work. A shape is needed that will propagate vibrations in a dense medium from a central point almost spherically to the periphery. There should be something spindle-shaped, similar to two plates connected together with the bottoms facing out. In principle, this is one of the solutions - two metal plates mounted on an axis.
The diameter of the vibrator depends on the drive power. When making calculations, you can proceed from their approximate proportions: 150 ÷ 200 mm per 1 kW of hammer drill power. So, if we take a 1.5 kW hammer drill, then we prepare “plates” from 225 to 300 mm in diameter.
The diameter of the cylinder itself should be such that from the outer edge of the vibrator, placed exactly in the center, to the wall of the container there is a distance approximately equal to the radius of the plate.
To create vibration waves capable of handling the mixing of the cement-sand mixture, the level of the solution above and below the vibrator must be approximately equal to the diameter of the “plates”.

Vibration mixing of concrete mixtures produces excellent quality mortar. The process is very easily monitored visually - from active stirring, movement, bubbling - to a smooth, rippling surface (ready solution). But, you must admit that for this you need to comply with a lot of specific “whims”. And one more thing - “heavy” solutions with gravel or crushed stone are also problematic to prepare in this way. So it is widely used among private owners similar method doesn’t find it - it’s easier to make a concrete mixer according to the “classical” scheme.

Self-production of a “classic” concrete mixer

It is necessary to immediately warn the “hot heads” - not everyone can take on the production of such a concrete mixer. Although in many articles there is a “bravura motive” that it is both easier and cheaper than buying a ready-made one, you still shouldn’t believe it.

- Firstly, you should not start such work if the owner knows about the art of welding only by hearsay or is involved in this field.

“Secondly, the work will be profitable if most of the components for making a concrete mixer can be found among unnecessary things in your own household, from neighbors or even in a landfill.

— Thirdly, the existing experience in the design, production of plumbing, welding, electrical work and the available inexpensive or even free materials must be multiplied by the expressed desire to make a concrete mixer yourself. There is a fairly large category of people who can’t wait to try to do everything with their own hands - this is a task specifically for them. If you start work without fulfilling such conditions, simply cherishing the ephemeral hope of saving something, then it’s better not to start. Time and materials will be wasted, and it will be much cheaper and easier to purchase a small and inexpensive concrete mixer - fortunately, the choice is quite large.

General scheme concrete mixers - approximately the same

If we consider almost any of these concrete mixers, then three main structural units always clearly stand out:

The container itself (tub) in which the solution is mixed, with all the additional mixing devices located in it.
Frame (frame, frame), which serves to place on it a mixing tub, an electric or manual drive, controls and, if necessary, means of movement. The frame must provide a movable hinged fastening of the container, a degree of its freedom both around its own axis and relative to the horizon with different angles of inclination. The structure itself can be stationary, or it can have wheels for moving around the construction site.
Drive is a mechanism that ensures rotation of the mixer container around its axis. In most cases, an electric drive is used. For small concrete mixers, a manual drive may be sufficient. You can (rarely) find engine installation options internal combustion(gasoline or diesel) - the concrete mixer will then not be dependent on the power source. Any drive transmits torque with the number of revolutions required for the mixing technology through a gearbox (there are no restrictions - craftsmen use any type of transmission - gear, belt, worm, etc.).

Now let's look at the manufacture of all these units separately.

Mixing tub

When making a mixing container, it is assumed that during operation it is usually filled to a maximum of 30–40% of its total volume. Typically, these buckets are made with a volume of 100 to 200 liters. If you exceed these limits, it will be difficult to independently create a reliable, stable frame and equip a homemade concrete mixer with such a powerful drive. With small tank volumes, both assembly and operation of a concrete mixer often become simply unprofitable.

Prices for concrete mixers Enkor

concrete mixer Enkor

The easiest way, of course, is to find a ready-made container that is suitable in volume and dimensions as the main mixer. It immediately suggests itself se is the same metal barrel.

The simplest approach is again a metal barrel

This option is entirely possible, but for a good concrete mixer, the cylindrical shape of the tub is not optimal. A lot of unmixed solution may remain in the corners around the bottom, and it is possible that the solution will splash out from above when stirring.

Making a smooth transition from wall to wall is a very difficult task, but probably any craftsman can give the barrel a pear-shaped shape. Triangular cuts are made on top, and then the remaining “petals” are welded so that a uniform narrowing is obtained.

Improved barrel - the upper part is narrowed

An interesting solution was found by a craftsman who decided to adapt plastic barrel. Why not? Smooth curves of the shape are what is required for a concrete mixer container. It is quite possible to attach the blades to its inner surface, and from the outside below - an axis with a rotation transmission mechanism, not by welding, but screw connections. But what a huge gain in terms of the weight of the device itself!

An original approach - a plastic barrel

As a result, the designer of this model even made do not with a steel frame, but with a mobile wooden base– a trolley on wheels.

The height of a standard barrel for use as a concrete mixer container is still too large and complicates the alignment of the entire unit. Please note that in such cases, support rollers are usually used for stabilization - the tall tub seems to roll along them, resting on its upper part.

If there is no suitable container, but sheet metal with a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 mm is available, then you can try your hand at making a container yourself, giving it all the necessary shapes.

Not to be unfounded, for those owners who consider themselves masters in welding work, we can offer an interesting drawing for the manufacture of a “classic” concrete mixer with a drop-shaped tub.

The overall dimensions of the container, without the connection unit with the gearbox, are 400 ÷ 500 mm. It would seem - not much, compact, but even only in the cylindrical part about 30 liters of solution fit - a completely acceptable indicator for a household concrete mixer.

1 – automobile wheel hub. You can make this part yourself, but it’s still easier to use a ready-made one.

2 - bottom of the tub. Cut from steel sheet, preferably 5 mm thick. The figure below shows this position separately in an enlarged view. Holes (8 PC, with a diameter of 6.5 mm) must exactly coincide with the holes on the hub (pos. 1 ).

3 – the cylindrical part of the tub (shell) is welded from a steel strip bent into a ring, 2 mm thick, dimensions 150 × 1580 mm. All welds when assembling the tub are made continuous and sealed. It is advisable to strengthen the shell from above with a metal band ( tape).

4 — the conical part of the tub is welded from four identical parts. Their dimensions, including the radii of curvature in the upper and lower parts, are shown in the figure.

5 – along the top edge, the edge of the tub is flared outward, and By a steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm is welded around the circle (well shown in the diagram - node A ).

6 – “blades” - solution dividers - are welded inside the tub. In this case, the structure shown in the diagram, made of reinforcing rod with a diameter of 16 mm, will be quite sufficient. 3 pairs of such dividers are made and welded evenly around the circumference, every 120°. By the way, they should also give the tub additional strength. Each pair has one straight divider running from the bottom in the neck, and one curved at a right angle.

Bottom node ( B), which includes the already mentioned hub and bottom, is better shown in a separate, enlarged drawing.

7 – bolts connecting the hub to the bottom. The nuts are located on the outside. Between the parts there is a rubber gasket of at least 2 ÷ 3 mm (item 11).

8 – a screw with a washer that secures the hub to the output shaft of the gearbox (pos. 9 ). The hub is protected from turning on the shaft by a key (pos. 10 ).

Lower connection block ( B) is prepared, tried on, but mounted only after assembling the frame and installing the drive and gearbox on it. In principle, this will be one of the final operations - on a unit already mounted to the gearbox B the concrete mixing tank will be “seated” on the screws.

All welds must be descaled and carefully inspected to ensure complete leak-proof tubs.

Video: homemade concrete mixer with a tub welded from a steel sheet

Concrete mixer frame

In the manufacture of frames or trolleys for concrete mixers, the ingenuity of craftsmen who can adapt unnecessary metal parts and wheels for this design is also quite welcome.

The frames can have wheels, which means they can be easily transported to Right place. You can also make a stationary, motionless frame - it is easier to manufacture, and in the conditions of a suburban area, usually any large movements of the concrete mixer are not planned.

Frames may also differ in the degree of freedom provided to the mixing tub. Thus, the container can be installed hingedly, changing the angle of inclination of its axis to the horizon as necessary - for solutions of varying degrees of “heaviness”, for dumping ready-made concrete, for washing the container, etc.

A simpler option is when the tub on the frame always occupies one position, and to unload the solution the entire concrete mixer tilts forward - like a wheelbarrow (as shown in one of the pictures above) or children's rocking chairs on arched runners.

Video: homemade concrete mixer with a swing-type frame

However, let's continue to consider the drawing of a concrete mixer, the manufacture of which was described above. It is quite possible to go along this path. The drawing, for ease of perception and for greater clarity in the size and arrangement of parts, is presented in two projections.

Concrete mixer - front view

Assemble such a frame from ordinary and profile pipes and scraps sheet metal– for an experienced fitter-welder it will not be something extremely difficult at all. Meanwhile, this design has been well tested - it is not heavy, but it ensures reliable stability of the concrete mixer in the transport and working position, and ensures maximum ease of operation.

She is a side view

1 - this is the same tub that was described in the previous section of the article.

2 – a lever handle for installing the tub in the desired position and for tipping it over when unloading. For a lever you can use steel pipe½ inch (½ʺ).

3 – a gusset cut from 3 mm steel (s 3) ensures reliable fastening of the lever to the rotating subframe (pos. 18 ).

4 – metal wheels Ø 350 mm. They are usually taken from decommissioned agricultural machinery.

5 – thrust legs with thrust bearings for stable installation of the concrete mixer in the working position. They are made of ½ʺ pipe (the stands themselves) and s3 steel (thrust bearings).

6 – cross beam of the concrete mixer frame. A profile pipe with a cross section of 60 × 20 mm is used.

8 - an inclined beam (pipe 60 × 20 mm), and for its rigidity - a strut (pos. 7 ) connected to the cross beam. For the strut - ½ʺ pipe.

9 – a panel to which the electric drive controls will be attached. The panel is cut from s3 steel.

11 – wheel axle. Made from a metal circle Ø16 mm - according to size mounting hole available wheels

12 – longitudinal beam of the concrete mixer frame. Profile pipe 60 × 20 mm.

13 – vertical stand. Profile pipe 60 × 20 mm.

14 – eye of the hinged fastening of the rotary subframe. Two parts are made from s5 steel.

15 – transmission gearbox. In this version - a ready-made assembly, worm type, with a gear ratio i = 17.

16 – safety clutch on the electric drive shaft.

17 – . Specifically, in this concrete mixer model, the developer used a three-phase drive (380 V), with a rated power of 1 kW, and a rotation speed of 950 rpm.

18 – a swinging subframe on which both the electric drive with the gearbox and the mixing tub itself are mounted. It is made from the following parts: two spars from a ¾ʺ pipe, four cross members from a 35 × 35 mm angle.

19 , 20 And 21 – electric drive control elements: start button, capacitor box and power cord with a three-phase socket, respectively.

Now - a slightly larger knot A, which ensures installation and fixation of the mixing tub in the desired position.

On a stretcher (pos. 18 ) the eye is welded (pos. 22 ), and on the inclined stand (pos. 8 ) – sector (pos. 10 ). Both the eye and the sector can be made of s3 steel. The selected position is fixed with a pin (pos. 23 ), and so that it does not get lost, it is recommended to hang it on a chain.

The number of fixed positions in a sector may vary. However, it is usually enough T reh:

– at an angle of 50 ° to the horizontal – for mixing heavy concrete solutions;

– at an angle of 30 ° - for preparing light mortars (for example, masonry);

– horizontally – for washing the tub.

After assembling the frame, all welds are removed from slag, the parts must be cleaned of corrosion. Then it is recommended to cover the structure with high-quality metal paint. The rubbing components of the frame (subframe suspension in the frame lugs, wheel axles) are generously coated with conventional hinge grease.

In the variant under consideration, the drive and gearbox unit are attached to the subframe (so that precise alignment is maintained). After checking the functionality (test run), you can finally assemble the concrete mixer by placing the mixing tub in place and securing it with bolts.

A few words about the drive

In the example under consideration, the electric motor and gearbox already recommended by the model developer were used. However, in the practice of self-manufacturing concrete mixers, it is very common There is a situation when a master “on the fly” selects a drive from what is available and comes up with a way to transmit torque to the mixing tank.

It is customary to calculate the required electric drive power based on the ratio of 20 W per liter of solution for a scheme with an inclined tub. (When positioned horizontally, for example, in models with a barrel on a horizontal axis, 15 W/l will be sufficient). You should not forget about this ratio so as not to overload the drive. For example, if the engine in our case has a power of 1 kW, then you should not mix more than 50 liters of solution, regardless of the size of the tub itself.

Thus, often the tub itself begins to be manufactured, starting from the parameters of the drive that is planned to be installed on the concrete mixer.

The rotation speed of the mixer bucket should also be within certain framework . So, it is considered optimal from 30 to 50 rpm. To make the speed lower is to deliberately delay the process of making the solution. And if the speed is too high, the solution will begin to splash.

Finding a ready-made gearbox that would meet the requirements both in terms of dimensions and gear ratio is not always possible. Therefore, many craftsmen find their own, sometimes very original, ways of transmitting torque while ensuring the required angular velocity. In the version that was considered, the mixer is mounted directly on the driven axis of the gearbox. However, often the tub is installed on a free axle, and the torque laneeats on it by gear, belt, chain transmission. For example, here are a few original solutions:

Instead of pulleys - bicycle wheels

Homemade gearbox - drive from an old washing machine, it transmits rotation through belt drives through the pulleys of their gears and old bicycle wheels.

The simplest frame with homemade gearbox

Fixed frame for a concrete mixer with a homemade gearbox.

A homemade gearbox that combines a belt and two chain drives. Again, there were some bicycle parts.

A small-sized concrete mixer, the rotation of which is transmitted directly to the bucket through a belt drive. The pulley is structurally located on the mixing tank itself.

Car parts that are no longer needed in the garage are often used. A popular solution is to use a flywheel with a ring gear. By the way, it is very easy to find a pair of drive gears - from the Bendix starter of the car, since they are “made for each other”.

The flywheel can be completely welded to the bottom of the tub.

Another option is when only the ring gear is used. There is probably no need to say that in this case it is extremely important point There will be a very careful alignment of it.

In a word, a thrifty owner can very often find parts for his own original solution the question of manufacturing the required gearbox. Perhaps the options shown will be a good hint for someone.

Video: another design option for a concrete mixer

Prices for concrete mixers Stroymash

concrete mixer Stroymash

If everything worked out, then the owner can be congratulated on successfully finding a good “helper”. But in order for the concrete mixer to last longer and not cause any emergency incidents, you need to adhere to certain rules:

Like any equipment associated with the consumption of electricity, a concrete mixer requires compliance with electrical safety rules. And in this case, this issue is even more acute, since operation is always carried out in conditions of high humidity and a high probability of water splashing. That is, all cables and contact connections must have the most reliable insulation, completely eliminating electric shock or short circuit.
The operation of a concrete mixer is always associated with high levels of vibration. This leads to weakening threaded connections, which means they need to be checked and tightened regularly. At the same time, one should not forget to monitor the safety of other components and parts, welds, etc.
Before starting work, you need to make sure that the concrete mixer is installed securely. It should rest tightly on all of its standard stands. If the structure is mobile, then wheel chocks (wedges) are placed under the wheels.
Never, under any circumstances Not Do not leave a running concrete mixer unattended. Curious people, and especially children, should not be allowed near her.
When working, it is better to use skin and eye protection, since cement has a rather aggressive effect on tissues and mucous membranes.
Checking the quality of the resulting solution with a shovel or stick while the concrete mixer is running is the height of imprudence! Very often such actions end in serious injury to the hands or face.

And in conclusion of the article - proof that the limits of creativity when creating homemade equipment- No.

Video: homemade concrete mixer based on an old T-16 tractor

Many people like it on their personal plot carry out repairs yourself. To fix the foundation of a house, fill paths, or install fences on posts, you need a machine such as a concrete mixer. There is no point in purchasing an industrial model, because it will be very expensive. In this case, an excellent solution would be to make a concrete mixer yourself, which will not require large financial costs. So how to make a concrete mixer yourself? Thanks to the presented video, you can clearly see the entire process of such manufacturing.

Why is a concrete mixer needed?

Many people believe that a small amount of solution can be easily mixed with a shovel. However, this results in a very low quality mixture. The fact is that it is very difficult to stir the solution in a trough with a shovel. Such exercise stress not everyone can do it, so easier to install the concrete mixer, assembled with your own hands from a barrel. In addition, if you mix a large amount of the mixture, the composition will end up dry. The solution begins to lose moisture much faster than it can be stirred to the required consistency.

You won’t get good quality concrete even if you use a drill. When you attach it to the bracket, lumps of sand remain in the mixture. The drill must not only spin, but also move back and forth and in a circle. Often the tool cannot withstand such stress and breaks.

To understand the principle of operation of a homemade concrete mixer with your own hands, which is made for a small amount of work, it is necessary to consider the process of mixing the solution. There are 3 ways:

gravity method;
vibration method;
mechanical method.

Gravity method. This method is not used in industry because the resulting cement is of low quality. As a result of gravitational mixing, the container tumbles over, the components begin to “plop” on top of each other and mix into a relatively homogeneous mass.

Vibration method. Counts the most reliable production method concrete in industry. In the fixed tub, a vibrating mixer begins to move, resulting in a high-quality solution.

Mechanical method. Can only be used in conjunction with gravity. In this case, either the mixer begins to rotate in a stationary tub, or the tub with protrusions inside rotates.

Concrete mixer manufacturing technology

There is a large number homemade units, which are adapted for the production of concrete. The simplest design can be made from an ordinary milk can, a large saucepan, or old boiled milk. Its drawing is quite simple, and its manufacturing technology is even simpler:

weld the container to the axis;
insert a stick, a piece of pipe or a rubber band into the lid and pull the lid very tightly towards the handles;
to simplify the design couplings are not used, and cut arc-shaped recesses in the frame and lay the axle on them.

To make a more practical unit, it is necessary to use other drawings.

Stages of making a concrete mixer with your own hands

Making a container

Before you start creating a concrete mixer with your own hands, you should choose a container. It is best to use metal barrels for this, which can hold at least 200 liters. Exactly this volume is considered optimal in order to mix the required amount of concrete at one time. It is better not to use plastic tanks, as they will not last long.

To make a concrete mixer you will need a barrel with a lid and a bottom. If the container initially does not have a lid, then it should be welded by cutting it out of a sheet of metal. After this, flanges with bearings should be attached to the bottom and lid of the barrel. A hatch is cut into the side, through which the components of the solution will subsequently be poured. It is best to make such a hole closer to the end of the container, which will be lower during the operation of the concrete mixer. The cut out part of the barrel will be used as a hatch cover. It is secured using hinges and some kind of locking device.

In order for the solution to mix better, blades are welded to the inner walls of the barrel at an angle of 30 - 40 degrees. The angle of inclination is calculated in such a way that during the mixing process the concrete can be “pushed” outward. In addition, such the blades can be fixed not on the walls, but on the shaft of the device itself.

If you cannot find a suitable container, you can make it yourself. To do this you will need the following tools and materials:

sheet metal 1.5 - 2 mm thick;
welding machine;
rollers;
wooden mallet or hammer.

Before you start cutting metal, drawings should be prepared indicating the required dimensions. To make the concrete mixer body, you will need a central round section, the bottom of the container and two truncated cones that make up the lower and upper parts of the structure. The parts cut according to the markings must be bent into rings. It is more convenient to do this using rollers. After all parts have been adjusted, the seams are securely welded.

Base installation

A homemade concrete mixer must have a reliable and stable base. Otherwise, the structure may tip over during operation. If it is not intended to load a large amount of concrete into it, then it is better to make the frame out of a square one wooden beam , having a cross-section of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. To ensure that the base of the structure does not suffer from vibration during operation, you should use “half-tree” or “tenon” type connections. After assembly, all joints must be properly glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.

If you want to create a more reliable and durable unit, you should give preference to a frame that welded from a metal corner size no less than 45x45 mm. You can also use a channel. If there is no gas welding machine, then the frame is secured using rivets or nuts and bolts.

If there is such a desire, the base can be equipped with wheels. This will require an axle without bearings and the wheels themselves. This concrete mixer is easy to turn over and move. When assembling the base, it is necessary to provide handles. With their help, the device can be moved.

During the assembly process, the frame must provide space for the engine. Also a counterweight will be needed so that the structure does not topple when unloading concrete. If you plan to unload the solution with a shovel, then in this case a counterweight will not be needed. All these points must be provided for during the creation of the drawing.

Engine installation

To make the concrete mixer more efficient, you need any single-phase motor whose rotation speed is no more than 40 rpm.

Many craftsmen who create a home-made design advise using electric motors from old washing machines that have failed, such as “Volna” or “Chaika”. Such motors can operate long time and don't overheat. When choosing a motor, you should remember that the optimal rotation speed of the tub is 20 - 30 rpm. For this, various gearboxes are used. However, optimal and simple option is the use of a pulley and a drive belt.

Instead of a washing machine motor, You can use a motor from a motorcycle or a gasoline-powered moped. In this case, the concrete mixer will not require power supply and can be used in any conditions. The engine is mounted using 4 bolts to the bracket or frame, which are welded to the gearbox housing.

However, a homemade concrete mixer can also operate using manual control. In this case, neither electricity nor gasoline will be needed. Such a simple device is mobile, easy to assemble, and anyone can operate it. Its only drawback is the presence of an assistant to mix the solution.

Finally, a shaft is threaded through the container of the structure. To make the device more stable, it should be dug into the ground at an angle of 30 degrees.

Thus, to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, no special skills are needed. The manufacturing process can be seen more clearly in the video. Before you start assembling such a device, you should use the drawings. They will help you correctly and accurately create a homemade design without major financial investments.

With a limited budget, buying equipment that will only be needed for one construction project is unprofitable. If companies offering tool rental have not yet opened in the neighborhood, a DIY concrete mixer will be a great way to save money! If you approach your homemade device with care, it will last for more than one year.

Types of concrete mixers

Having previously studied the mechanism of operation of concrete mixers and their characteristics, it will be possible to select a design suitable for the needs of a specific construction. After all, why complicate your work if you can get by with a simple mechanical device?

On the other hand, by loading the concrete mixer to capacity, it will not be possible to finish pouring the foundation faster - this will lead to a banal overload of the engine and its rapid failure.

Mechanical or electrical?

When choosing the design of the future “assistant”, you should immediately decide on the way it will work:

mechanical concrete mixers - they operate from a manual drive; when mixing a large amount of concrete, two people need to turn the gate;
electric concrete mixers - work from the network, but connecting the motor requires good knowledge of auto mechanics.

If several strong and hardy people are involved in a construction site, you can get by manual concrete mixer. The mixture ingredients are loaded either simultaneously or alternately. The only inconvenience is that designs with a movable barrel, rather than an internal shaft, do not allow adding water during the mixing process. You must stop the barrel, open the hatch and fill it with water. The hatch closes and the mixture is stirred again.

Electric concrete mixers allow you to mix large volumes of concrete in the shortest possible time, and one person can do the job perfectly. Please note that motors high power require a three-phase network, therefore, when choosing the tank volume, you should calculate the motor power in advance. If only a 220 V line is connected to the yard, you will have to forget about heavy solutions.

Forced, gravitational or vibration?

Its design will also depend on the operating principle of the concrete mixer:

forced-action concrete mixers are distinguished by a stationary container in which blades mounted on a shaft rotate;
gravity concrete mixers mix concrete by rotating the container itself, in which the blades are rigidly fixed to the walls;
Vibrating concrete mixers cannot boast of great productivity, but they provide a high-quality and homogeneous mixture without bubbles.

At the same time, both gravitational and forced-action concrete mixers can be either mechanical or electrical. The whole difference is that a mechanical forced-action concrete mixer has a horizontal axis, while an electric one can have a vertical one.

To make them you will need metal container. The most basic option is a metal barrel with walls at least 2.5 mm thick.

Vibrating homemade concrete mixers are available to every hammer drill owner. And although it won’t be possible to fill the foundation with their help, it is quite possible to make a poured floor in the bathroom or mix mortar for tiles. At the same time, the design couldn’t be simpler and does not require direct human participation. So even a woman can handle the job.

Concrete mixer volume

An important selection criterion is the capacity of the future concrete mixer. For example, for pouring a foundation, a minimum capacity of 200 liters will be required. It should be taken into account that the finished mixture will be 15-25% less, depending on the loading capabilities.

This volume of concrete can be mixed manually, although it is quite difficult - your hand will get tired.

The homemade device has another significant drawback - the mixture is often discharged in full. Therefore, it is better to take care of a wheelbarrow of appropriate capacity in advance. If it is possible to make a partial reset mechanism, it is better to take the time to create it. This will significantly simplify the operation of capacious electric concrete mixers and will allow two people to work, loading two wheelbarrows at a time.

Drawings and design of simple concrete mixers

If the construction volumes are small, you can get by simple concrete mixers, the creation of which will not require serious labor and monetary costs.

Vibrating concrete mixer from a hammer drill

The presence of a mixer attachment is mandatory for any construction work. But holding the drill while it mixes the solution in the bucket is difficult and time is wasted. If you have a hammer drill with manual activation of the impact mechanism, you can quickly make a vibrating concrete mixer:

You will need a hammer drill with a power of 1-1.3 kW. Less powerful ones will be ineffective.
A vibrator is being manufactured - the main operating part of the concrete mixer. An incorrectly made vibrator simply will not mix concrete. Its shape should resemble a biconvex lens - flat edges and a convex middle. For example, these could be metal plates folded together and fixed. The diameter of the disk is calculated based on 20 cm per 1 kW. For a 1.3 kW hammer drill you will need a vibrator with a diameter of 25 cm.
A round container is selected. The distance from its walls to the vibrator should be equal to its radius. So, for a vibrator with a diameter of 25 cm, you will need a container with a diameter of 50 cm.
The bracket for the hammer drill is installed. The position of the vibrator is calculated so that its distance to the bottom is equal to its diameter, in in this example this is 25 cm. The amount of solution above the vibrator should be the same.

The readiness of the solution when operating such a concrete mixer is determined by the absence of rising bubbles and the formation of small waves on the surface. If the cement or sand is of poor quality, the solution may not form waves. Then the mixture is ready when it stops moving and gurgling.

Manual concrete mixer made from a barrel

You will need a two-hundred-liter metal barrel itself, metal pipe 2-3 cm in diameter, flanges, grinder and welding machine:

A loading hole and two opposite holes for the pipe, which will be the axis, are cut in the barrel. The axle can be threaded either through the center of the barrel or diagonally. In the second case, the mixture will be mixed more efficiently.

From the inside of the barrel, 2-3 blades are welded to the walls so that the mixture does not stick to the walls and mixes better. The blades should run along the entire barrel, but not lie close to the walls - otherwise the solution will constantly accumulate in the seams.

A pipe is threaded through, its ends are welded and secured with flanges.
A stand for a concrete mixer is being manufactured. Its height should be such that it is convenient to load the ingredients of the mixture without raising them too high, but also so that you do not have to get in the way by bending over. On the supports under the axle you need to make oarlocks that will allow the axle to rotate freely. You can use either a hollow tube of larger diameter or bearings.

It is imperative to provide a wide, strong and stable base connecting the legs of the supports. This will prevent the concrete mixer from wobbling during operation.
The levers are welded to the axle. Do not forget that they should be located opposite each other. The longer the lever, the easier it is to move the barrel. But a lever that is too long is not convenient to use, so you should stick to the golden mean.

The loading hatch lid must be tightly closed so that the mixture does not leak out. You can cut a larger lid from the same barrel and glue it around the perimeter with thick rubber. Or you can use part of the same barrel, left over from cutting out the loading hole. To do this, you just need to weld a centimeter-long metal strip along the edge and also seal it with rubber.

The concrete mixer has a similar design. open type. Only instead of a moving barrel, blades rotate inside, which are also driven by human effort. To make it you will need the barrel itself, and round and round pipes. rectangular section. The barrel is laid on its side and the top is cut off. It is better to leave as much of the barrel as possible so that more concrete can be mixed.

Holes for the shaft are cut on the sides. But, unlike a gravity concrete mixer, the blades are welded onto the shaft itself. You can use any parts, even blades from a combine!

The mixture is also unloaded by turning the entire barrel over.

Such concrete mixers are very a budget option, but requires the constant participation of two workers. If you have to work alone, you will need a device with an electric motor. For example, the open type option can be quickly improved by connecting a motor to it.

Electrically driven “factory” concrete mixers

Without having confident welding skills, it is better not to try to replicate factory models of concrete mixers yourself. But if you have an experienced neighbor, you can make excellent equipment from almost nothing! Moreover, such a concrete mixer will serve for more than 10 years, helping in the construction of the entire holiday village.

Homemade gravity concrete mixer made from scrap metal

After this, you will have to travel to recycling collection points and auto dismantling yards in search of the necessary parts:

metal sheets with a thickness of 2.5 mm for the walls and 5 mm for the bottom of the pear;
a flywheel from a car, for example, from a Volga or MAZ, a hub and a bendix - for the pear rotation mechanism;
bearings for tipping the pear (you can get by with the “pipe-to-pipe” system, generously lubricating the rowlock);
metal pipes of square section and different diameters - for the base, seat and swivel wheel.

When all the materials have been collected, you can proceed directly to the manufacture of a concrete mixer:

The body elements are bent and welded together. You can bend steel with a sledgehammer, even if the individual parts do not turn out perfectly even, when welded together they will take the desired shape.

While the bulb is not welded together, a rotation mechanism is attached to the lower part, cut from 5mm steel. It is advisable to make it removable - it is easier to transport a collapsible concrete mixer.

The parts of the pear are welded together. First, the central and lower parts are combined. To do this, the edges of the central rim are cut and bent inward to limit the exit of the lower part. The lower part is inserted through the top into the central rim and, using tapping with a sledgehammer, is pressed all the way down. Once the edges are aligned, they can be welded.

The upper part of the pear is lowered into the central one, the edges of the central rim are also trimmed and bent inward. Using a nail puller, the top is also “picked out” until it stops and is also welded.
Blades are welded inside the pear to help mix the mixture. To prevent the solution from accumulating in the seams, the blades are attached at a short distance from the walls.
You can start making a seat that will ensure the pear is tipped over. Even considering the heavy weight empty container, you need to take care of the high reliability and strength of the frame.

The tipping mechanism must be done on a flywheel with a gear - so even one person can tip over a full container. You can weld a hex wheel or fit any other one.

A gearbox is made that will transmit torque from the engine to the pear. The pulleys on the shaft and motor are designed to produce up to 25 revolutions of the pear per minute.

To prevent large parts of the mixture from getting into the rotation mechanism, a strip can be welded over the crown, but this step is not necessary.

In principle, the concrete mixer is ready. If desired, it can be painted to protect the metal from corrosion, although during operation it will still acquire a classic gray color.

Forced type concrete mixer made from a tin pan

If you don’t have it, you can order a pan with a diameter of 60 cm and a depth of 50 cm from a familiar tinsmith. After this, all that remains is to fit the mechanism, blades and make a hatch:

The center of the container is marked - this is where the shaft will be located. A hatch is cut for unloading the mixture. It’s easier to cut a rectangular one, but then the whole mixture will break into a wheelbarrow. It is better to make a rotating semicircular hatch.

To do this, a rod is welded in the center of the cut out semicircle, on which the hatch will rotate. To prevent the mixture from leaking out, a strip is welded above the cut of the hatch, under which the curtain will move.

In an inverted state, a motor with a gearbox is attached to the installed bearing. To securely fix the engine and ensure the required belt tension, the engine is installed on slats welded to the bottom of the container.

To strengthen the frame of a container made of 2 mm thick steel, a rim of steel rod or pipe must be welded along the upper edge. You can also make stiffening ribs on the sides and bottom of the container.

Once the wheels, support and rotation mechanism are installed, the entire structure can be turned over. The blades are attached to the shaft and everything is fixed with one bolt - so that the structure can be easily disassembled. It is important to correctly think through the position of the paddle blades - one should remove the solution from the walls, the second should separate it from the bottom, and several more should mix the middle.

You can get by with a construction made from scrap and a cross from a plumbing flange. If the blades are made movable, their position can be adjusted depending on the type of mixture.

The forced action concrete mixer is ready! You can mix almost any mixture in it, make them liquid or dense, add crushed stone of large and small fractions. The same concrete mixer, but of a horizontal type, can be made using the drawing.

The process of assembling a concrete mixer from a steel barrel is clearly shown in the video:

This is one of the simplest ways to make the necessary construction equipment with a minimum of cost!

Schemes and drawings of the location of blades in a concrete mixer. How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands - visual instructions and drawings