Decor door slopes- mandatory part overhaul or finishing a newly built house. Plastering them can be considered a classic design today. This method, although it takes a lot of time, is the most reliable: with this finishing there are no voids left. Although this is not an easy task, if you follow the technology, plastering slopes with your own hands can also be done at a good level. In any case, you can prepare the surface for wallpapering yourself.
We plaster the slopes with our own hands: if you follow the technology, everything will work out
How to plaster slopes
Plaster slopes for doors can be made using different compositions:
What plaster is better for plastering slopes? It is easier to work with Knauf compounds, cheaper - with cement-sand. What is preferable for you is up to you.
Technology
Plastering the slopes begins after the surface of the main walls is leveled. The work ahead is dirty, so it is advisable door leaf, cover the floor and door frame with film, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be covered masking tape- it will be easier to clean.
Preparation
The first stage of work is surface preparation. First, poorly adhering plaster, pieces of brick, other building material. If the doors were changed, old plaster may stick out a lot. In this case, even if it holds up well, it gets beaten up.
If the old plaster sticks out a lot, it is refinished
Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Also cleaned old paint: plaster does not adhere well to it. Afterwards, remove dust and dirt.
If the cracks were not foamed when installing the door, you will need to do this now. Polyurethane foam is applied to the wetted surface in a volume of no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, clean out all the dust, then moisten it with a spray bottle. In a few minutes it will greatly increase in size, filling all the empty spaces. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), the excess is cut off with a knife. It’s more convenient to do this with regular stationery paper.
Do-it-yourself installation of door slopes begins with sealing the gaps between the door frame and the wall
If they will plaster cement-sand mortar, the surface is moistened. This can be done from the same spray bottle or using a brush or roller.
Setting up the guides
It is more convenient to plaster slopes with your own hands, as well as walls, using guides. On the outside of the doorway, to obtain a smooth and rigid edge, a perforated paint corner is usually placed. Once secured well, it can be used as a guide.
It is cut to the height of the doorway. The upper edge of the corner, which will be adjacent to the main wall, is cut down at an angle of 45°. It is better to do this, since during work this edge for some reason always lifts up and causes a lot of inconvenience.
You can fix the corner in several ways:
Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution that protrudes through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then take a flat bar (you can use building level or rule), apply it to the corner, checking how evenly the corner is set. They check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.
The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then on top. At the junction of the corners, the absence of differences can be checked by running your finger along the joint.
There is another way to attach the corners - with nails or self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but it is not used when plastering: the caps get in the way.
When plastering door slopes it is convenient to use a template
Second guide - doorjamb. When installing the doors, they were aligned straight, so this is a good guide. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, which is then used to level the solution. It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: the edge is smooth, glides well, and is quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wooden plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess mortar should be perfectly smooth. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove excess solution.
You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and secured along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.
Plastering of slopes can be carried out along guides
This video tutorial on plastering slopes explains in detail the fastening technology perforated corners, explanations are given regarding the technique of applying putty during finishing.
Do-it-yourself rough plaster of slopes
The process of applying plaster to a slope is no different: a solution is poured onto a dust-free and wet surface. They do this with a wide spatula or a paint bucket - depending on how you are used to it. It’s more convenient to start from the bottom and work your way up.
By running a rule or template along the guides, rocking from side to side, the solution is leveled, and the excess is removed back into the container. For the first penetration, you don’t need to achieve a particularly flat surface, but be sure to monitor the condition of the corners - remove excess mortar regularly.
Plaster slopes are made in two stages: the first is rough, the second is finishing
Some problems may arise when plastering the upper slope: it is more difficult to apply the solution here. It is taken with a wide trowel (spatula) and, pressing lightly, applied with a slight pull. If the surface is rough, there are usually no problems. They may occur if the top is installed concrete beam. The solution, especially cement-sand, does not “stick” well to such a surface. In this case, you need to pre-impregnate it with a primer, which serves to improve adhesion (adhesion) to finishing materials.
Treatment may also be necessary if the surface on which the DSP plaster is applied strongly absorbs water (silicate and clinker bricks, for example). Only in this case should the primer further reduce moisture absorption. The second way out is to use special compounds Knauf - they do not react so sharply to a lack of fluid. And the third way is to apply a layer of tile adhesive to the surface treated with primers, forming a wave with a notched trowel. Tile adhesive admirably “clings” to the most difficult surfaces, and itself serves as an excellent base.
If all this seems very complicated to you, read the article on how to make slopes from MDF. Everything is extremely simple there. No solutions or spatulas, and the result is excellent. Or you can make slopes from plasterboard. The look is almost the same, but it’s faster to do. After installation plastic windows You can make slopes from plastic.
Finishing layer
After some time, or the next day, the dried plaster is leveled by applying a second finishing layer. You can’t start leveling too early - the solution “floats” and loses its shape. Touch the plastered surface: the solution should crumble, but not “float”.
For final leveling, the solution is made a little more liquid. It is also applied and stretched. Only this time you need to make sure that the surface is even. If necessary, the solution is re-added into the voids, filling even minor holes.
Secrets smooth plaster: the rule is not to pull straight, but in zigzags
Grout
This stage creates a perfectly flat surface. The plaster can only be rubbed after the mortar has set. To do this, at least 16-24 hours must pass (depending on humidity and temperature). To determine if you can start grouting, take some mortar from the wall between your fingers and rub it. If it crumbles, you can work; if it smears, we wait again.
The solution is made even more liquid. It is no longer applied, but rather poured onto the surface. And it is distributed not with a spatula or template, but with a grater - a foam surface with a handle. With this grater, use a circular motion to distribute the solution over the surface. The plaster becomes smooth and monochromatic. This procedure is optional, especially if everything will then be puttied. But this is how your DIY plastering of slopes takes on a finished look. But we repeat once again - this is not necessary.
This video shows how to plaster door slopes with cement-sand plaster. The case is complicated, the explanations are detailed, but in some places the sound is not the best.
Finishing of plastered slopes
If the slope is then painted, the putty will be leveled perfectly. To do this, apply two layers: starting and finishing. Starting putty has a larger grain, it can be laid in a layer of up to 1 cm. With its help, all defects that are difficult to remove are eliminated cement mortar. After finishing putty Once dry, all irregularities and protrusions are sanded with a special mesh. Afterwards a layer of finishing plaster is applied. It is even more plastic than the starting one, and can be applied completely thin layer. With its help you can achieve perfect smoothness.
For a beginner plasterer, getting a perfectly flat surface for painting is very difficult. It is much easier to level the slope for wallpapering. In this case, you can stop at the starting putty.
If, when installing the door, the old slopes were not damaged much and can simply be restored, there will be less work. You just need to pour the solution into the depression and level it with a long trowel (trowel).
Plastering a doorway
Sometimes doors are not placed in the opening, but even in this case the doorway requires finishing. And the easiest way to do this is with plaster. The technology of the plaster itself is similar, but the guides and methods of their installation are different.
Plastering the doorway begins only after both adjacent walls have already been plastered. The opening itself is covered with a primer (the selection principle is the same).
The guides are installed from the sides. These could be boards metal profiles, two rules, pieces of plastic, fiberboard, etc. One is installed on the right, the second on the left, they are fixed. The most convenient way to secure them is with clamps. If there are no clamps, you can use nails or screws - the remaining holes will then need to be carefully repaired.
To plaster a doorway, you need two guides, which are installed on both sides
The leading edges of the guides will serve as the basis along which the rule or wide spatula will move. The sequence of actions is the same: the first layer is rough, the second is finishing, if it is necessary to bring it to perfect condition, grout is done. For more information on how to putty a doorway, watch the video.
High-quality finishing of slopes after installation window design- an important stage of final work, the result of which determines the aesthetics of the house from the inside and outside. Below we will tell you how to plaster slopes on windows and do the job at the proper level.
Advantages of the plastering method
Plastering window slopes does not lose its relevance along with traditional ways, which involve the use of panels made of plastic, wood or plasterboard. Knowing how to make slopes, you can save a lot on construction work. The method has a number of significant advantages:
- low price of material;
- strength and stability;
- long service life.
Plastering window slopes with your own hands is another big advantage of the method, which allows even a beginner to cope with the work, since the technology is easy to implement. In addition to the advantages, it is worth mentioning the disadvantages of plastering:
- average thermal insulation;
- risk of mold and moisture formation;
- cracks appear over time.
The method is suitable for houses where they are installed as wooden windows, so plastic double glazed windows.
Plaster mortar
Plastering of external and internal slopes is carried out using self-made mixtures or ready-made store-bought options. It is advisable to purchase already prepared options, where the correct proportions are observed and there is no need to measure the number of components for the mixture made.
Self-made plaster on slopes will require binding elements in the composition, which are often: clay, cement or gypsum filler. Depending on the number of components, the solution can be simple or complex in composition. It is very important to make exact amount components to obtain a high-quality mixture, otherwise the solution may turn out to be greasy and quickly crack after drying. A solution that is too poor in composition will also not bring anything good: it will turn out to be fragile, as a result of which the slopes will need to be repaired after installation.
Self-production plaster mixture requires precise proportions In order not to make a mistake in the consistency of the future mixture, be guided by the following signs:
- a well-mixed mixture will slightly cling to the spatula;
- poorly mixed (greasy) will cling strongly;
- a lean mixture does not exhibit adhesion properties at all.
To make the mixture, you can use slaked lime, which correct proportions ideal for wooden and stone foundations. You can only use the slaked version, otherwise the surface may swell. You can buy the component at a hardware store. You can perform lime slaking yourself in this way:
Slaked lime is often used when plastering slopes - Pour the quick slaking lime into a container of the required size and fill it with water until the lime is completely covered with liquid. The active release of vapor begins within a few minutes, after which we add a little more water and mix the mixture thoroughly.
- Medium slaking lime is poured in an amount of ¼ of the container and filled with water to half the volume. Vapors begin to release after 30 minutes; when finished, dilute with water and mix.
- Slow slaking lime is not poured with water, but only moistened. The extinguishing process continues for more than 60 minutes.
You can also use gypsum, but you should take into account the efficiency of the work, since the mixture with this substance dries within 5-10 minutes. It is important to take into account that gypsum mortar is unstable to a humid environment, so it is advisable to use it for interior works in dry rooms. One of durable materials Cement is considered to be cement that adheres to the surface within 15 minutes and dries completely within 24 hours.
When choosing what to plaster slopes on windows indoors and on external parts, pay attention to the strength properties of the constituent components so that the slopes last for a long time.
Preparing the work surface
How to properly plaster slopes on windows and get an excellent result depends on good surface preparation. Minor violation important stage it turns out main reason cracked or fallen plaster. So:
Construction beacons are used to level the surface of slopes To properly plaster the slopes on the windows with your own hands, take into account all the preparatory stages to achieve high quality work. To accurately level the surface, use construction beacons or a plaster profile. Visually smooth walls can play a cruel joke after all the work is completed, so be sure to install guides along which the surface will be leveled. Beacons will serve as a guarantee as a leveling element, the use of which will avoid future alterations and additional costs.
Plastering on beacons Tools for plastering windows
The main points about how to plaster slopes on windows have already been announced and it’s time to talk about the devices. In order to achieve excellent results You can’t do without a set of tools and related equipment. For work you will need:
- laser level to set the profile (beacons);
- foam if the window cracks are poorly sealed during installation;
- construction trestle or small stepladder;
- dense latex gloves for protection against solutions;
- grater and trowel for cement mortar;
- silicone sealant and a sharp knife;
- black pencil, tape measure;
- spatula and trowel.
Apply the plaster layer using a spatula Let's move on to practice
Do-it-yourself plastering of window slopes begins with inside. First they do the lower and sides, then move on to the upper slope.
- Part of the solution must be diluted thinner and distributed over the areas of the window opening. This step will promote good adhesion of the surface to the plaster. The mixture is taken with a spatula and spread along the openings. It is important that it does not spread, but sticks to the surface.
- Let the first layer dry.
- We install the corner profile using a level.
- We continue laying layers on the slopes, not forgetting to monitor the leveling of the surface.
- As the solution dries completely, you need to adjust the corners.
- We grout using a grater.
- Apply a layer of primer.
- We move on to the finishing, which can be decorative plaster or tiles.
Finished slopes are finished decorative plaster After installing plastic windows to standard technology the following items are added:
- on the plastered slope, using a spatula, make a 5 mm furrow;
- in the made rut we lay a layer of silicone, which will not allow cracks to form in those places where the window connects to the slope.
Otherwise, plastering of slopes of plastic windows occurs according to the technology described above. If a gypsum mixture was used in the work, then at the final stage it is necessary to dismantle the elements of the window strips by bending.
Plastering of external slopes is carried out after finishing the internal ones Next, you can proceed to plastering the external slopes of the windows. If you follow the basic rules and know how to plaster slopes on windows, you can significantly improve the thermal insulation of your house and give it a beautiful appearance.
After replacing window frames, many were faced with the problem of finding a responsible craftsman to plaster the slopes. Most workers, even if they are ready to perform this work, then most often they do it poorly, while demanding unreasonably high fees. You should know that if the windows are improperly finished, they lose their heat and soundproofing properties. Moreover, the appearance of harmful fungal organisms is guaranteed, which can negatively affect human health. You can plaster slopes with your own hands; we will tell you how to do this in the article.
General requirements
Slopes on windows should not only have a beautiful appearance, but also meet a number of requirementsSlope is a section of the wall (according to its thickness) that is adjacent to the window frame. A high-quality slope has the following characteristics:
- good moisture and vapor resistance of the surface, which will make it possible to ensure high quality assembly seam subject to compliance with GOST requirements;
- increased resistance to delamination when carrying out wet cleaning or cleaning;
- resistance to mechanical and external influence(temperature changes, sun rays);
- high thermal insulation properties.
Slopes on windows can be oblique and straight, narrow and wide, external and internal.
Preparatory stage
Before starting production work plaster slopes It is worth paying due attention to the preparatory stage.
If you have a “new building”, then the slopes are made only after finishing plastering of the remaining walls. In this case, you should wait several days until the plaster on the walls dries.
The area under the slopes must be well prepared, cleaned of dirt, dust and any grease deposits. Mortar protruding from the brickwork or beads of concrete should be removed.
Protruding foam residues must be removed To improve the adhesion of the mortar to the wall, the brickwork must be embroidered in advance to a depth of at least 10 mm. To improve thermal insulation, it is necessary to caulk or blow out with foam (which is more convenient and faster) the gaps between window frame and a wall.
If you have wooden window frames, then you need to lay a special insulating material that will protect the wood from absorbing moisture and subsequent rotting.
When metal-plastic windows It is recommended that after applying the solution and drying it, make a small notch up to 5 mm wide between the slope and the frame. Then fill it out silicone sealant. This notch will serve as compensation for thermal expansion of the frame and guarantee the absence of cracks on the surface of the window slopes.
Plastering window slopes
To make it easier to clean up dirt after work has been done, window frames, glass and the area around the window should be covered with protective cellophane film, which can simply be thrown away after completion of work. If, when dismantling old window frames, the edge of the slope is damaged, it is necessary to install an ordinary corner. Which one to choose, plastic or metal, you decide for yourself.
Tools and materials
To make plaster slopes with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:
- roulette;
- pencil;
- putty knife;
- Master OK;
- containers for water and mixing the solution;
- pick;
- malka (by the way, you can make it yourself);
Using a small tool you can make the same angle of inclination on all slopes - primer deep penetration(you can do it yourself by mixing PVA glue with water in a ratio of 1:2);
- cement (or ready-made plaster mixture);
Preference is already given ready-made compounds in bags.
Using ready-made mixtures will greatly facilitate the work and allow you to obtain a high-quality solution - rail for level output;
- building level (you can use a plumb line);
- brush or roller;
- water-based paint;
- putty (finishing);
- sandpaper (fine grain) or paint mesh.
Do-it-yourself technology
We find zero level and place beacons for plaster around the entire perimeter Before starting all work, it is necessary to prepare the surface for applying the solution. Then we find the zero level and place beacons for plaster along the entire perimeter of the future slopes of the window frame. Installing wooden slats will make the work easier.
The slats can be fixed to ordinary mortar. In this case, you need to control the level both horizontally and vertically.
We prepare the solution for slopes in accordance with the instructions on the packaging. It must be thoroughly mixed to ensure uniformity in all layers. After setting all the landmarks, they begin to treat the surfaces of the slope with a primer (or a mixture with PVA).
It is best to repeat the finishing several times with short breaks.
We begin to treat the surface with a primer. When the desired level is reached, the last movements of the spatula should be carried out from the window towards the room After preparing the solution, take a spatula and apply the first layer of solution. If you need to make high plaster slopes, then the solution should be applied in layers at short intervals, during which the layer dries out a little. We begin to apply the solution from the bottom up, focusing on the beacons or wooden slats. "Kicking Out" required height, it is important to apply the solution correctly: first vertically and then horizontally. When the desired level is reached, the last movements of the spatula should be carried out from the window towards the room.
When plastering slopes from above window opening It is recommended to add gypsum or alabaster during the preparation of the solution. This is necessary to speed up drying.
It is better to apply the solution in small portions, especially in the upper part of the slopes Many recommend for quality plaster on the upper slope, increase the number of layers and at the same time reduce the volume of the applied solution on the spatula. Malka will be useful to you when making plaster slopes with an angle, if this angle should be the same on all surfaces. This tool is easy to use: place one end on the window frame and the other on wooden slats, which is fixed on the edge of the slope.
Remove excess malka to create correct angle necessary only after the solution has set.
All irregularities are removed with fine-grained sandpaper After this, a layer of finishing putty is applied. All irregularities are removed with fine-grained sandpaper or paint mesh. Finished dried slopes are covered water-based paint in several layers with drying between approaches.
Question: how to plaster slopes on windows , can arise in two cases: the slopes were once made, but need repair, or they do not exist at all. It does not matter when the windows were installed and what material they are made of; often builders do not want to deal with this issue, and the owners themselves are forced to plaster the slopes. This procedure is simple, and anyone can learn it.
What are slopes used for?
These elements are necessary not only on the inside, but also on the outside of the window. They perform the following functions:
- Decorative: they make the window complete, can decorate it, help give it a certain stylistic direction
- By finishing the slopes, you can hide installation elements, traces of foam and other construction activities.
Plastering helps to get rid of excess moisture on glass, make the room warmer, eliminate drafts, increase the level of silence.
Prepared slopes for plastering
What is required for the job?
You can finish the slopes yourself without great experience, for this you only need to read the instructions and purchase necessary tools, which include:
- Building level.
Advice : It is best to use a long tool, which will allow you to accurately determine whether a bevel has occurred over a large segment.
- Rule (most often aluminum is used).
- Roulette.
- A container in which the solution will be mixed, water or primer will be collected.
- Convenient size spatula.
- Master OK.
- Cement grater.
- Sealant in the gun.
- Profiles and strip.
- Small auxiliary tools, such as a knife, pencil, brushes for applying primer.
Advice: before plastering the slopes on the windows from the inside, arrange the trestles. Using a stepladder is inconvenient; you can fall or drop the bucket.
How to make a mortar for plastering?
It is diluted with water, so its consistency can be different and depend on how much liquid was added to the mixture. The composition of the substance itself may also differ. Ideally, to work, the mixture should be similar to semolina porridge. For those areas where the humidity is high or for the street, it is better to use a composition containing cement.
Ready-made dry mixes for plastering It is not difficult to decide whether the slopes on the windows are inside, since in most stores you can find ready mixture for this purpose, but the substances differ slightly in composition. For outdoor work, a cement variety is required. If the work will be carried out indoors, you can use a gypsum mixture: it is easy to use, hardens quickly, and has optimal consumption.
Before starting the surface, you need to close all the cracks, this can be done using construction foam. It is also necessary to coat the surface with a primer.
Advice: It is better to work in a hat, since falling from a height, the plaster can get on your hair and harden. It will be difficult to get rid of her.
Preparation of mortar for plastering Work order
Plastering windows requires starting with preparing the area for this. First, the window opening is cleaned, dirt and dust are removed, the surface is degreased and the voids are filled. polyurethane foam. When the foam hardens, you can cut off the excess. Don't worry about its appearance; the plaster will still cover the installation material.
To prevent moisture from getting into the joints, they need to be sealed with a special tape, which can be purchased at any hardware store. The window sill is installed before plastering work begins. This will allow you to immediately seal the cracks with polyurethane foam and give the structure additional strength.
Advice: if the window is already ready for use, a battery is installed under it, a window sill is mounted, there are fittings, it is best to cover all these elements with film, otherwise the plaster can stain them by getting and drying to the surfaces during the work.
Plastering of slopes is carried out after the slope elements are impregnated with a primer. It is needed so that the plaster adheres better to the wall surface. The primer is selected depending on the wall material. There are different types of it, designed for wood, concrete, and other materials. Do not begin work before the primer is completely dry. At room temperature this happens for about a day.
After the cracks have been sealed, it is too early to think about plastering. A vapor barrier needs to be applied. It looks like a film, but you can also use a sealant. The purpose of this layer is to protect the plaster from moisture. If you neglect this stage of work, the slopes may deteriorate after a while, condensation will begin to appear on them, fungus is possible, and the plaster will begin to get wet and crumble. In addition, the film will help avoid drafts.
Advice: must be frost-resistant. The usual one, which is used indoors, will lose its properties and collapse in winter.
Excess material should be removed immediately after applying the substance; this is most conveniently done with a wet sponge.
Plastering slopes after installing the main profiles Work process
You need to work with the composition at positive temperatures, if the composition is at least +5 degrees, cement - +10. Each solution has certain requirements, their manufacturer provides on the packaging, the proportions must be observed as indicated in the instructions.
Preparing slopes for painting Plastering door slopes begins with installation corner profiles. They will be required to protect the slope from mechanical harm, and will also provide orientation using beacons. After this, the guides are installed, and you can begin to apply the solution. In order for the slope to be smooth, you will need to set its angles and work according to the level.
Advice: plaster is applied in three layers. Before applying the second one, the first one must dry thoroughly: this will take about a day, so you should not think that the work will take little time.
After last layer once dry, it can be cleaned with sandpaper and coated with a primer for applying paint.
Conclusion: how to plaster slopes , It’s not difficult to find out; you can learn this skill almost immediately. However, you should immediately prepare for the fact that this process will take a lot of time.
The slopes of windows and doors of any building must be made in accordance with the general style concept of the premises or the design of the facade. To decorative coating it held up well on them and pleased the owners of the house for a long time; the surface must be prepared and leveled. Perhaps the most simple and a budget option for buildings made of stone or concrete - leveling with plaster, especially since you can do everything yourself. The technology of this process for slopes is generally similar to plastering any surfaces, but there is important nuances, which need to be taken into account.
Peculiarities
Since the slopes will almost touch the window frames or door frames, before applying the coating, you must ensure that the installation of windows and doors is carried out correctly. If you have to troubleshoot after completing all the work, then, of course, the plaster layer will suffer, and the whole process will need to be repeated again.
Plastering slopes, in addition to the main tasks of leveling and decorating, performs some related functions:
- additional vapor and moisture insulation;
- improved thermal insulation;
- additional noise protection.
Therefore, it is important to select the right materials and tools and carefully follow the recommendations so that the resulting coating does not crack and lasts a long time.
What will you need for the job?
The main material is plaster mixture. There are two types of plaster most commonly used: gypsum and cement-based.
Features of the cement mixture
There are formulations for rough coating, including coarse sand, and for fine surface finishing - with fine-grained sand inclusions. Such solutions can be quickly prepared and are quite easy to apply. But you need to take into account that it takes a lot of time for the layer to dry completely, and this will increase the duration of the repair as a whole. But the diluted mixture sets so slowly that even an inexperienced performer will be able to cope with the work. Another plus is the inexpensive price.
Properties of gypsum plaster
The gypsum-based composition is also easy to prepare, but it dries very quickly, so it requires certain training of the worker. The ability to absorb moisture is also not always beneficial. If the mixture is used in dry interior spaces houses or apartments, this property, as well as the ability to release excess moisture, can be considered advantages. But it is still not recommended to coat a surface in direct contact with precipitation with such a composition. In terms of price, such plaster is somewhat more expensive than cement plaster, but if you take into account the more economical consumption, it may end up being even cheaper.
There is another option - special acrylic mixtures. They are universal and can be recommended for any surface. But the cost of materials is such that not everyone can afford to use them.
But you also need to prepare primers in advance: deep penetration and finishing. Putty and sealant may be needed.
Materials
The following tools should be at hand:
- rule of the required length;
- level at least 1 meter long;
- wide spatula;
- ironer;
- grater;
- construction knife;
- hard brush;
- pencil, preferably graphite.
It is necessary to prepare two containers: for water and plaster mixture.
It is most convenient to plaster along beacons, which are usually used as smooth planks, profiles or special metal corners. They immediately need to be prepared in the required quantity, since if you need to plaster the slopes of a row of windows on one wall, then the beacon frames are fixed on all of them at once on the same level.
If the thickness of the plaster layer is more than 2.8 cm, you will need a reinforcing mesh.
How to plaster?
All work must be carried out at a temperature not lower than 7 degrees. But it is also advisable to take into account the recommendations of material manufacturers on this parameter.
Window finishing
First, you need to pay attention to the fact that the gaps between the window frame and the wall are filled with polyurethane foam, which can collapse under the influence of temperature and humidity changes. In addition, the same factors cause slight deformations of the frame, and this will be enough for the slope coating to crack prematurely. To prevent such troubles, it is recommended to do the following manipulations. Trim off excess foam construction knife or use the corner of a spatula to run along the edge of the frame around the entire perimeter to create a shallow groove, which is filled with acrylic sealant. Cover the entire surface of the foam with the same composition; when it dries, a film of additional vapor barrier is formed.
Sometimes the question arises whether to install a window sill before finishing the slopes. On the one hand, it is more convenient to work when the attached beacon strips are supported on it. Another argument in favor of this solution is the ability to perform additional thermal and vapor barrier with the same solution of the area under the window sill. But on the other hand, there is a danger of damaging it during the plastering process.
The width of the slopes depends on the thickness of the walls, and it must be taken into account that the angle between them will differ from 90 degrees. Derivation of the so-called dawn angle creates some complexity. Its value is usually indicated in the project by the developer or designer and is 5 - 7 degrees. This is necessary for better penetration daylight into the room.
If a specific angle is not specified, it is determined using a simple calculation: 1 cm of deviation to the side of the frame for every 10 cm of slope width. For convenience, you can draw a guide line with a pencil on the window sill, if installed. Upper slope most often done with a right angle.
Preparatory stage
Now you need to clean the surface, this can be done with a stiff brush. It is necessary to remove all layers that fall away. If there is old plaster, it is better to tap it to find where it is coming away from the wall. You need to try to remove these areas, otherwise they may fall off during the process or after finishing the work and ruin the whole result.
All holes and potholes must be filled with putty. After the putty has dried, treat the entire surface with a deep penetration primer, this will improve adhesion. If used cement mixture, then the priming step can be omitted, and just before applying the plaster, the surface can be slightly moistened.
Securing beacons
When the entire surface has dried properly, beacons are installed. You can prepare a frame, a kind of formwork, which is fixed around the perimeter so that the planks slightly protrude beyond the edge. Or use special corners. If the window sill is already installed, the side strips rest on it. If not, you can screw in a self-tapping screw for support.
Now, in the middle of each slope, profiles or similar strips are installed on the line of the dawn angle. Deviations are verified using a level and plumb line. You can attach it directly to the solution. To do this, throw a small amount of the prepared mixture onto the surface, install the strips accordingly and press firmly. After drying, you can continue working.
Plastering
Getting ready required amount solution, especially for gypsum compositions, since they harden quickly. In this case, you should strictly adhere to the manufacturers' recommendations.
First, the first layer is poured, filling the entire area between the profiles. Level it with a spatula or small spoon, working from bottom to top. You need to try to achieve a tight fit of the plaster to the surface without the formation of voids, but also not to press too hard, so as not to remove the mortar. The width of the spatula must fully correspond to the size of the slope so that on the side of the frame there is a small gap for free opening of the window.
If there is no tool suitable for the width, you can use a specially prepared plywood template the right size with a cut corner.
When the layer dries a little, you will need to remove the beacons. The plaster is carefully cut and the profiles are removed. If special corners were attached to the edges, they can be left. The resulting grooves are filled with solution, and the entire layer is leveled.
If the layer thickness is more than 2.8 cm, reinforcement is fixed metal grid and the application of plaster is repeated. Sometimes, to be sure, a third layer is also done, but only after the second has completely dried. The surface is carefully leveled, corners are smoothed with corner spatulas
Now all that remains is to wait for everything to dry properly and sand the slopes with floats. You can secure the result by treating the entire surface with a finishing primer. The final design of the slopes can be achieved using any decorative coating.
