Mount the wall lining in how many places? How to nail clapboard to a wall - a complete guide

Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to build baths from various materials. For walls you can use foam blocks, insulated frame panels, sandwich panels, profiled or glued beams. The interior upholstery is made from glued and plastic lining(“original” solution), waterproof OSB and fiberboard boards, etc. Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages, each finds its consumer depending on preferences and the “thickness of the wallet.”

We will not consider these modern options, let's talk about the most classic, reliable and time-tested option for building a bathhouse - from ordinary sawn timber, we use it for the interior upholstery of the bathhouse natural lining. Doesn't have of great importance, what kind of lining - ordinary traditional or europrofile. These are our initial data; for other options, the upholstery technology will have minor differences.

Wood species	Dimensions (thickness x width x length)	Extra grade, price per 1 sq.m.	Grade A, price per 1 sq.m.	Extra grade, price per linear meter	Grade A, price per linear meter	Illustration
Aspen	16x96(90)x 1-3 m	550-680 rub.	450-580 rub.	53-65 rub.	48-56 rub.
Linden	16x96(90)x 1-3 m	650-870 rub.	550-770 rub.	62-84 rub.	53-74 rub.
Cedar	16x96(90)x 1-3 m	1400-1800 rub.	1300-1700 rub.	134-173 rub.	125-163 rub.
Larch (Shtil lining)	14x90 (115 or 140 width) x 2 (4, 5 or 6 meters long)	950-1160 rub.	770-940 rub.	-	-

Work stages

Any work requires careful preliminary preparation, the better everything is thought out and prepared, the faster the upholstery will be done and the cheaper it will cost.

Where to start:

• preparation of instruments;
• room measurements and calculations required quantity material;
• preparation of load-bearing surfaces;
• frame installation;
• clapboard upholstery;
• finishing final works.

Let us immediately note that there are no less important or more important operations; an inattentive or unprofessional attitude to any of them can cause quite unpleasant situations to arise; in some cases, a defect is very difficult to fix, and this is fraught with large additional financial losses. In addition to money, time and nerves are lost.

Preparing tools

To perform upholstery work you will need the following tools and equipment.

1. Tape measure and pencil for measurements.
2. Level. Now there is big choice fairly accurate levels, can be purchased additionally laser device. But there is one problem - these tools are quite expensive, you need to use them skillfully. But this does not guarantee against quite large errors during marking. We recommend using old and very accurate methods - checking the vertical using an ordinary plumb line, and hitting the horizontal with a hydraulic level. Despite their simplicity and low cost, these devices have the highest measurement accuracy.
3. Electric hand saw or a hacksaw. We advise you to use an electric saw - at a cost it satisfies most consumers, makes work much easier and faster, and improves the quality and accuracy of the cut.
4. Hammer, nail puller, etc. necessary little things carpenter

   
   
   
   
   
   
   

We took into account that upholstery will not be done by professionals; they have expensive tools and equipment. For an ordinary “dacha owner”, purchasing such expensive things to perform one-time, small-volume work is not economically profitable.

Prices for electric hand saws

hand-held electric circular saw

Video - About lining in the bathhouse and installation principles

Measurement of premises and calculation of materials

The ceiling and walls need to be covered with lining, therefore their area needs to be measured. There is nothing complicated, you just need to be careful. Based on the data obtained, the lining is purchased.

1. Firstly, when performing any work it will not be possible to completely avoid unproductive waste. And if practical experience If there is not enough work done, then the amount of waste may increase to 15% or more.
2. Secondly, not all purchased lining will be of high quality, unfortunately.

Another point - when purchasing a lining, select its length and width in such a way as to minimize the number of cuts, this will help reduce waste. To do this, you need to compare its length with the dimensions of the walls and ceiling. If you get a multiple number, great; if not, then the pieces should be long, which will allow them to be used during upholstery.

Profile	Description	Scheme
Standard	Similar to the classic quarter-plank lining. It has a tongue-and-groove connection, with the tongue being shorter than the groove to prevent deformation.
Calm or Kolkhoz Woman	It differs from the previous one in its rounded edges and the presence of channels on the reverse side to prevent the accumulation of condensation.
	Manufactured according to DIN 68126 standard. Has an extended tenon. After installing the lining, the wall surface is ribbed.
	Soft line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Shtil lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, relief texture of the wall after assembling the panels.
	Used for finishing external walls and premises. Stylized to look like a rounded log. There is a tongue-and-groove connection, front side usually rounded, and the reverse side is flat or with channels for ventilation.

The slats for the frame must have a thickness of at least one centimeter; they also need to be purchased with a reserve, especially since they cost pennies.

You can buy copper or galvanized nails, they are highly praised by manufacturers. But we dare to assure you that ordinary nails will serve for many years, and they cost several times less. If you plan to fasten the lining with special clamps, you will have to buy them too.

A few words need to be said about the impregnation of lining and slats with various antiseptics. It is advisable to do this operation, but not necessary. Conifers wood will last for decades even without impregnation, but over time it is better to completely replace the lining. Impregnation not only inhibits the growth of microorganisms and bacteria, but little by little it also poisons us.

Palette of aged wood - textured lining

Impregnation for wood - the result of pronounced moisture resistance

Claimer prices

Preparation of load-bearing surfaces

Surface preparation includes leveling them and, if desired, additional insulation. There is no need to level each individual beam, only level those to which the wooden batten will be attached.

The slats, by the way, can arrive horizontally or vertically. Accordingly, the lining in such cases will be mounted vertically or horizontally.

Video - Installation of lining

It is better to check the evenness of the walls using a rope stretched in the corners of the bathhouse, or a long, even wooden slat. It is advisable to use a rope, it is more accurate and faster. Stretch the rope as close to the floor and ceiling as possible, and use a flat rod to check the distance from the wall surfaces to the rope. If large bulges are found, they will have to be cut down; the depressions will be leveled out already during the installation of the sheathing. And not all of them, but only those where the slats will need to be attached.

Frame installation

Very important point– the final result largely depends on the thoroughness of all operations. What should you pay attention to? Distance between slats. Specific values ​​depend on the thickness of the lining, but we recommend installing the slats at a distance of ≈ 40 centimeters. Strength and reliability will increase significantly, and the amount of work and quantity of materials will increase slightly. How to make lathing? Consider the option of vertical installation of slats. It goes without saying that electrical cables already laid.

1. Nail the two outer slats in the corners; nail them level.
2. Stretch a rope between them.
3. Mark the distance between the remaining slats and nail them along the rope. If necessary, under the slats you need to put wooden spacers for their precise alignment.

The slats are nailed in the same sequence on all other surfaces.

Installation of lining

Here it is also very important to mark the first row; check the correct position several times. This does not take much time, but it allows you to insure yourself against troubles. If you have not made control marks on the frame slats, then you should check the positions of the rows with a level.

If you have little practical experience, mark the location of the lining on the slats every three to four rows. Marks can be made on each slate with a pencil or you can mark them all at once using a special rope with blue, they are sold in every hardware store. Such markings will allow you to constantly monitor the position of the rows and, if small deviations occur, correct them in a timely manner.

The nails are nailed to the frame slats, respectively, the distance between them is equal to the distance between the slats.

Problems may arise if the ceiling and floor are not parallel to each other; the last row of lining must be cut at an angle. What to do? Think while marking the frame. If the deviation in height is less than 1.5 cm, then it is better to trim only the bottom row of the lining, the place will be covered with a plinth, the “slanting” lining below is less noticeable - various sun loungers and other “bath equipment” in many places completely hide the plinth. If the height difference is large, divide it into two parts; you will need to cut both the bottom and top rows. What exactly to cut (tenon or groove) does not matter.

Prices for lining

Video - How to nail the lining. Installation subtleties

The lining is fixed with nails or clamps, the nails need to be driven flush into the tenon at a slope, the length of the nails is ≈1.5 cm. We do not recommend using self-tapping screws - they are time-consuming and expensive, and have zero additional effect. The lining is never subject to pull-out forces. The clamp is fixed in the grooves and nailed to the slats. The gaps at the bottom and top are covered with plinths.

There is no need to compact the lining with a mallet, especially eurolining. Its tenons are much longer, which prevents them from slipping out of the grooves during expansion/shrinkage.

Very important - leave gaps for shrinkage. If the bathhouse has not yet fully matured after laying the frame, then you will have to install a floating sheathing. It is not difficult to make; there are special elements for floating fixation of the frame.

Never rush, it is better to first check the position of the lining several times and only then fix it securely. Only over time, when experience has already appeared, can the pace of work be increased.

Video - Floating lathing for installing lining

On the Internet you can find advice from “experts” to insulate baths with mineral wool or foil - we consider this a waste of money and time. This option should be used only in cases where the bathhouse is built of sand-lime brick.

If there are a lot of tasks, the conditions should be discussed. Foam blocks and wood retain heat normally. And for wooden baths foil does more harm than good - natural ventilation is disrupted with all the ensuing consequences. This type of “insulation” is carried out by unscrupulous swindlers in order to rip off more money from the customer.

Video - Internal lining of a bathhouse with clapboard

Finishing work

These include installing skirting boards on the floor and fillets on the ceiling. Do not forget to leave a gap of 1÷2 cm between last row lining and ceiling to compensate for expansion/shrinkage. The gap is closed with a fillet ( ceiling plinth), the fillet is fixed to the ceiling - this is very important. Otherwise, the gaps left will not “work”, and there is a high risk of warping.

The lining can be coated with special resistant to difficult conditions use varnishes, stains or leave surfaces untreated. It is not advisable to coat with varnishes; you must remember that absolutely all polymer resins, and most of the stable varnishes are made from them, emit harmful chemical compounds. Harmfulness paint coatings is determined individually in each country, and evaporation limit values ​​are regulated. What is strictly prohibited for use in some countries is called “environmentally friendly” products in others. Decide for yourself whether you need beautiful bathhouse, or you want to have a safe steam room. What can I recommend - carefully inspect all surfaces and, if necessary, sand them problem areas on the clapboard. Whether to varnish or not is an amateur’s job.

Prices for wooden skirting boards

wooden baseboard

Conclusion

If you follow all the recommendations: don’t rush, don’t be lazy, double-check the markings and work done several times, then upholstering a bathhouse with clapboard will not seem like a very difficult task. Of course, provided there is a desire and hands grow from where they are needed. It’s better to do the work with an assistant - it’s faster, easier, and safer. And lastly, follow basic rules safety, no beautiful clapboard-lined bathhouse can compensate for the loss of health.

The difference between “eurolining” and wooden lining is that it is produced according to the European standard DIN 68126. Improved and modernized wood processing technologies make this environmentally friendly and safe material high moisture resistance. Significantly simplify installation and extend service life.

To install the eurolining yourself correctly, you will need the necessary tools:

• electric jigsaw;
• ruler with level;
• hammer;
• perforator;
• wood screws;
• mounting thread;
• drill;
• clampers.

You can calculate the coverage area using the width of the working panel, which is 88 mm. Difficulties with the ceiling area arise quite rarely, but for ease of calculation, the surface of the walls is divided into separate rectangles. The length of the board should be equal to one of the sides of the resulting sectors. Depending on how the window or doorway is located, the other side will be of arbitrary size.

Be careful when using in calculations not the working width, but the actual width of the board, which is 96 mm; its error will be 7%.

Eat simple instructions, which does not require a specific classification of the master. It describes in detail how to properly secure the lining. It includes several points - from wall preparation to final finishing.

PREPARATION

Before you install wood paneling you need to do it indoors in advance best option electrical wiring. After the finishing process is completed, the wires will be hidden under the panels. These wires are placed in special channels called corrugations, which are made of non-flammable material.

Boxes with boards must be opened and kept in this condition for 24 to 72 hours. This is necessary so that the material can get used to the given climate, temperature and humidity in the room. As a result, shrinkage or expansion of the panels at the joints can be avoided.

What you use to fasten the eurolining will change over time and appearance sheathing. The differences in color and texture are very noticeable, as they are made from solid wood. Therefore, before installation, you need to select the most suitable sequence of boards, it depends on the chosen laying direction. Directions can be: diagonal, vertical, combined and horizontal.

Attention: when finishing the ceiling, panels located along the incident rays of light from the window can significantly increase the volume of the room.

INSTALLING THE LATTING

• It doesn’t matter what type of wood is used for the sheathing, the main thing is that this material is artificially dried;
• Sheathing boards are attached to load-bearing slats with a cross-section of 20 by 45 or 30 by 45 mm;
• Using a level you can check the correct installation;
• The distance between the slats should be 0.4-0.8 m.

The direction of the lathing depends on how the eurolining is attached:

1. The slats are attached to the ceiling and floor in a diagonal or horizontal position;
2. It is necessary to install the slats horizontally with vertical cladding, from wall to wall. It's better to start at the top and gradually move down.

THERMAL INSULATION

If you are sheathing the room yourself, use mineral wool as insulation. Cotton wool fills the space between the lining and the wall well.

For additional hydro- or vapor barrier, a water-repellent film is attached on top of the wool with a stapler, with the silver side facing inward. This can be Tyvek, Izospan or other waterproofing materials.

KLEIMERS

Clamps are hidden clamps that are used to secure eurolining. WITH outside This fastener is discreet, does not cause the wood to expand or shrink, and helps prevent the panels from splitting. Fasteners for eurolining are made of galvanized steel, which is located under reliable protection from corrosion.

Galvanized nails, screws and clamps are sold in sets of 100 and 200 pieces. About 20 clamps are needed for one square meter eurolining. The price of the package depends on the completeness. When purchasing, pay attention to the elasticity of the retainer, the presence of coating and the thickness of the plate.

Pay attention to the first panel when fastening with self-tapping screws. Then the protruding part of the clamp is inserted into the groove of the board, and the base is screwed or nailed to the supporting rails. Each subsequent strip and fastener fit into the groove pressed by the clamp with its tenon, covering it with itself. Adjusted and cut to the required size last board. Hitting the end with a hammer if the boards are joined with some force is not recommended. Hitting with a hammer can split a tenon or groove. In these cases, a piece of slats is placed under a hammer.

Attention: if horizontal mount eurolining, then place the planks with the tenon facing up to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the grooves.

FINISH

When you complete the sheathing, treat the surface with an antiseptic; it protects the wood from fungus and rot. To brighten the wood texture, use wax or stain. The interior looks beautiful with a matte varnish coating.

Let’s conclude that it won’t be difficult to figure out for yourself how the eurolining is attached. The good thing about the workflow is that installation can be done quickly and easily. And another plus is that at the end of the work there is very little waste and garbage in the room.

Eurolining has gained great popularity due to its technical characteristics. When compared with conventional lining, eurolining has a higher cost, but despite this disadvantage, this finishing building material is in great demand among owners. However, many are interested in the question of how the eurolining is fastened. Before you look at self-installation finishing material, you first need to study the characteristics of the raw materials.

Peculiarities

Eurolining is a lining made of wood. Production technology meets European standards quality.

The main distinguishing characteristic of eurolining from identical finishing building materials is the presence of grooves on the sides of the building material.

Thanks to the installation of eurolining inside the room, you can create coziness and comfort.

The advantages of such finishing building materials include:

• highly stable product parameters;
• antiseptic special coating of products;
• polished surface of the material;
• simplified installation of products on various surfaces;
• It is possible to paint products in any shade;
• easy cutting of materials to any required size.

The disadvantages of building materials include some qualities of wood:

• wood is easy to burn;
• without special processing there is a risk of mold and mildew;
• expensive building material.

Eurolining can be treated with specialized varnishes, paints, oils, decorative plaster mixture or cover it with wallpaper. But the latter option is not used very often, because the natural color of the products creates a favorable atmosphere in any room.

Thanks to the advantages of finishing building materials, it becomes possible to accurately determine the quantity the required material for installation. But eurolining can also be used for both external and external interior works.

Mounting methods

Fixing eurolining can be done in various ways.

Let's take a closer look at the popular fastening methods.

• Self-tapping screws. In this case, the material is fastened on the side where the tenon is located. The size of the fixing elements should vary from 1 to 1.5 cm. After the screws have been tightened, they need to be covered with a dowel. Upon completion of finishing, all protruding elements are cut off and the surface is carefully sanded. To work with self-tapping screws, you will need a drill. The disadvantage of using self-tapping screws is the risk of products splitting under the drill.
• Hidden fastening with staples. The initial lining product is installed to the right corner, cutting to the required size. Next, it is secured using specialized staples (kleimer). They securely attach the finishing building material to the sheathing. The disadvantages of using staples are high price products and the fact that working with these tools requires some skill and experience.
• Nails. This fastening method is identical to the method of fixing the lining using clamps. But in this situation, thin galvanized nails are used. The heads of the nails should be driven as deep as possible into the finishing product, otherwise such protruding parts will interfere with the fastening of subsequent elements of the lining.

DIY installation

Even an inexperienced craftsman can install eurolining, the main thing is that all the rules and regulations for laying finishing building materials are followed. Before you begin the installation process, you need to stock up on everything necessary tools that will be needed in the work, as well as explore options for laying finishing building materials.

You can cover walls or ceilings in various ways.

• Horizontally. This cladding method involves installing eurolining from the top of the wall. The final eurolining is cut to the required size. If there is a hole between the floor and the wall, it is covered with a decorative plinth.
• Perpendicular. This installation variation does not allow accumulation a large number moisture inside the structure.
• Diagonally. In this case, they begin fixing the products from the corner part of the wall, and subsequent planks are cut to the required size using a jigsaw.
• Mixed type of masonry. For such masonry, certain skill and experience will be required; a beginner will need to do combined type installation will be quite difficult. Despite the labor-intensive work, the final installation result will delight you with an unusual design.

Before installing the structure, you should stock up on special fastening elements. Basically, 30 staples (clamps) are used per 1 m2 of eurolining, but craftsmen recommend purchasing parts with a reserve. Fasteners must be High Quality. It is prohibited to use mechanisms that contain damage or unevenness. The thickness should be no more than 1 mm. When purchasing these mechanisms, you need to make sure that the clamps are covered with a special anti-corrosion coating.

Cladding with eurolining can be done both on walls and on pre-prepared wooden or metal sheathing. A metal frame is much more expensive wooden slats, but such a construction is reliable basis For facing material.

Wooden structures under influence high temperatures and high humidity may subsequently become deformed, which will lead to further dismantling of the entire structure.

Basically, walls made of brick or concrete are sheathed without sheathing. In this case, between the finishing building material and the surface base is installed thermal insulation material. And also, to simplify the installation of the facing material, you can attach an OSB board to the walls. On this basis, the products will serve long time. OSB board in this case it will serve as a thermal insulation material.

First of all, before installing the facing product, it must be treated with an antiseptic. To prevent deformation of products from high humidity, experts recommend keeping the finishing product in the room where installation will take place; this is necessary for the lining to acclimatize. When laying adjacent products, you need to make small gaps where the tenon should be located at the top. This installation will not allow large amounts of condensation to accumulate. But also for work you will need vapor barrier material, which is mounted on top of the insulation.

Fastening eurolining can be done on an uneven surface by installing lathing.

Despite the complexity of installation, this installation has its advantages. In this case, the boards are able to breathe.

Wall cladding with eurolining is performed not only in the house; it is often used for finishing balconies and loggias.

• If you decide to install wooden sheathing, then this building material is pre-impregnated with a protective coating to extend the service life of the structure. The system can be assembled only after the impregnation has completely dried. The slats are mounted at a distance of 80 cm from each other from top to bottom. Before covering the walls, you must check the installation of the sheathing using a level. Installation of the sheathing depends on the chosen type of lining fixation. When installing products horizontally, the slats are nailed in a vertical position or vice versa.
• If it is necessary to insulate the room, lay it on top of the sheathing. thermal insulation material (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene). For those rooms where it prevails high humidity, you should not only insulate the walls, but also waterproof them. For these purposes you can use plastic film, which must be nailed to the sheathing using construction stapler. The insulating building material is glued to the concrete surface with an adhesive. It is important that the film is overlapped (10 cm), and the joints are taped, thus creating better waterproofing in room.

• The first board is installed with extreme evenness in the right corner. The evenness of the location is checked using building level. It is important to fulfill this condition, because the first product is the leading one, and the further arrangement of all elements will depend on its position. Next, the plank is secured in any way.
• Next, the next product is inserted with a groove into the previous board, after which it is nailed along the board. Now you need to check the evenness of the vertical position using a level. If the slightest irregularities occur, the board must be reinstalled. The laying angle should be 90 degrees.
• The final board is cut to the required specification. To decorate the corner, a special material (wooden corner) is used, through which all inaccuracies and flaws are hidden. Regardless of the chosen method of fastening the finishing material, the last lining is fixed using nails that have small head parameters.
• Ceiling cladding is done using a similar method. Only upon completion of the work is the joint between the walls and the ceiling surface covered with a special decorating baguette to give an aesthetic appearance to the entire structure.

Before you start covering walls with eurolining, you should familiarize yourself with some rules that will later help in the installation of this type of product.

The final result depends entirely on the actions performed correctly.

• When calculating the required amount of building material, you need to use the correct product parameters. If the actual width of the eurolining is taken into account, then the final result will make a difference of about 5%. This error depends on the existing grooves, which are partially installed in the previous finishing building material, resulting in working surface decreases.
• For a small room, eurolining is mounted on the ceiling so that it is located along the window design, and also in this case you need to use a combined installation method.
• At horizontal installation eurolining, attention should be paid to the placement of tenons; they should be located in the upper part. It is also necessary to constantly check the correctness of the laying of products using a building level. In the end it should be perfect straight corners and an immaculate surface façade.
• Finishing building materials after installation can be painted in any shade. But before this procedure, the products should be treated with a primer.
• When installing eurolining in areas where sockets and switches are located, they must first be de-energized.
• When installing the sheathing, you should not make large openings between the slats; in this case, the facing material may bend.
• Installation of eurolining must be carried out at a temperature not lower than 5 degrees and with air humidity not exceeding 60%.

The walls in the house take up much more space than the ceilings and floors. Therefore, their design should be treated as carefully as possible, having thought through both the type of facing material and analyzing its characteristics. In addition, the walls must have an attractive appearance and be easy to clean. The article will discuss the choice and methods of fastening eurolining.

Eurolining

Wood is one of the most sought after building materials. It is popular for cladding both the facade of a house and for interior work. After all, a tree is natural material, which is ready to serve for decades and has a fairly attractive appearance.

Eurolining photo

• Eurolining is a type of finishing material processed in a special way on all sides. To facilitate the sheathing, there are grooves and tenons along its edges. The sizes of eurolining may vary slightly, but the most popular material is with the following parameters:
  1. thickness 1.2 cm;
  2. width 9.6 cm;
  3. length 2-3 m.
• Lining - quite practical material, which is easy to install. It helps in leveling walls and hiding defects that arise when walls are plastered incorrectly. The characteristics depend on the type of wood itself from which it is made. After all, all types of wood are different in their structure and properties.
• Material for the production of this type finishing materials Both deciduous and coniferous trees serve. Coniferous trees are much cheaper in price than deciduous trees. So, eurolining made from cedar will cost more than from pine. Wood should be selected depending on its application.
• Also, other types of materials are used in production. The most cost-effective material is PVC eurolining, but in this case the finishing material is inferior in quality. After all natural wood will always look much more attractive than artificial plastic.
• If there is a need to decorate the room from the inside, then it is allowed to use finishing material with low characteristics. In the case of external cladding, on the contrary, you should use eurolining made of hardwood, which is not afraid of an aggressive operating environment, resistant to moisture and sudden temperature changes. To make it last longer, it is treated with a special solution, which gives greater strength and wear resistance.

A type of eurolining

Difference by class

• "extra" class. This is the most elite type of lining. It differs in that it has absolutely no defects;
• "A" class. IN this type minor defects may be present;
• "B" class. There are more knots here than in the class above. The diameter of the knots is also larger;
• "C" class. The cheapest and low-quality type of eurolining. Its use for decoration is impractical.

Difference by wood

• The most popular type of eurolining is board pine wood. This is due not only to the high positive performance of the material, but also to its rather low price. Pine eurolining has fairly high strength, and its specific weight is relatively small. It will not create too much stress on the sheathing. This wood contains much less moisture than hardwoods tree. In addition, the amount of time required to dry its preparations is significantly less than for drying other species. This fact leads to optimization of the production process and lower costs.
• Since eurolining made from pine has a high content of resins, it is durable and beneficial for the human body. After all, the release into the air essential oils can cure even advanced chronic pulmonary diseases. And the pleasant smell of pine will not harm anyone, at the same time creating good mood and a feeling of comfort. The resin itself is an excellent preservative, which significantly increases the service life of wood.

• In addition, a pine board looks quite attractive and original. It has a peculiar yellowish tint and is different beautiful design from knots and rings of a tree trunk.

The main advantages of pine eurolining:

• attractive appearance and original texture of the material;
• long service life. This board It is not even necessary to treat it with special impregnations and apply a protective coating;
• low weight;
• a large number of manufacturers on the market;
• relatively low price compared to other types of wood;
• quite a wide range. The fact is that pine boards are presented on the market in all possible designs. Sizes can be selected to suit every taste. But eurolining from other types of trees of the required size is more difficult to find;
• pine is a tree that is easy to process and install. This makes it quite easy to install. You can do this yourself, without involving professionals.

Of course, in addition to pine, beneficial properties for the human body and strength associated with the presence of a high concentration of resin in the material also differs spruce lining. But it releases sticky drops of resin during its entire service life. This board is also called a board that cries. In this regard, the price of euro-lining made from spruce is significantly lower than that of pine boards.

So, let’s move on directly to the installation of the eurolining itself. In general, it is no different from the installation ordinary lining. The only difference is the quality of the material and the size of the grooves.

How to fasten eurolining

• Preparing walls for cladding. Initially, you need to level the wall. In this case, you should use a sheathing that is installed at an angle of ninety degrees to the direction of the lining. Lathing is not required if the walls are already fairly smooth.
• Determining the direction of eurolining. There are several types of its installation. Thus, vertical installation visually increases the height of the ceilings. Horizontal - visually increases the space of the room. But laying it at an angle will look stylish and original.
• Choosing a mounting method. There are several options for fastening eurolining. This is fastening to the wall itself or to the sheathing, fastening to special brackets with holes for installation. The last method is used if narrow eurolining is used. To do this, the bracket is nailed to the wall to connect it into a groove with the next element.
• If you need to make the fastening invisible, then you need to screw the self-tapping screw into the Eurolining tenon itself. In this case, the next element closes the head of the screw when joining and entering the groove into the groove.
• When self-tapping screws are attached to the eurolining itself, special wooden dowels are used. They allow you to hide the fastening and give the wallpaper a seamless look.

Preparation for work on the installation of eurolining

• Eurolining should be stored in a special way before installation. It must be in the manufacturer's packaging in a dry and clean room, there should be no sudden temperature changes and direct exposure to sunlight should be absolutely excluded.
• In order for the material to get used to environment, it is recommended to remove it from the package two days before installation work.
• Using a dry or slightly damp cloth, remove dust and dirt from the material.
• It is very important at this stage to treat the lining with a special antiseptic solution. It prevents the occurrence of mold, fungi and protects against insects. After this, the slats should dry thoroughly.

• It should be taken into account that installation work on the cladding is carried out only at an air temperature of at least 5 °C. Also, air humidity should not be higher than 60%.
• If you want to cover the material with special decorative varnishes or paint, then the easiest way to do this is before starting installation work. This will allow the varnish to be applied evenly and dry without streaks. When covering the walls of a bathhouse or sauna, the use of varnish is prohibited. After all, during the heating process, it will release harmful fumes into the air.
• The next step will be to correctly calculate the amount of material that will be required for the cladding. To do this, both the area of ​​the walls or ceiling and the thickness of the board are taken into account. We should not forget that the working width of the eurolining is reduced by ten millimeters due to the fact that the longitudinal tenon fits into the groove of the next element.

Lathing for installing eurolining

• In order for the eurolining to serve for decades and not lose its properties during operation, it must be mounted exclusively on a flat surface. Therefore, it is often impossible to mount it on bare walls. If the walls are wooden and absolutely smooth, then in this case installation can begin without surface preparation. If the wall is made of brick, concrete or metal, then you need to start by arranging a wooden sheathing.

• It is a frame made of wooden slats, two or three centimeters thick and attached to the surface. They can be attached not only to walls, but also to the ceiling and floor. If the slats are attached to the ceiling, then the distance between them should be about 40 cm. And if on the wall, then from 50 to 70 cm. The direction must be chosen so that they are at right angles to the boards. For achievement best result, a level should be used. In this case, the slats will be installed as evenly as possible. You should also not skimp on the material for the sheathing. It is important that the slats are straight and without significant defects. Their role is not only to perfectly level the surface, but also to create special ventilation between the wall and the lining.

Methods of fastening eurolining

• Fastening eurolining with self-tapping screws. The lining is attached with self-tapping screws on the side where the tenon is located. It is best to choose the length of the fasteners within 1-1.5 cm. After tightening, the screws should be covered using a dowel. Upon completion of the covering, it is necessary to cut off all protruding elements and carefully sand the entire surface.

• Finishing with eurolining using invisible fastening staples. The first board of the lining is applied to the right corner and cut to the required size. After which it is fixed with the help of special staples, or as they are also called clasps. They firmly fix the cladding to the sheathing, without interfering with the joining of subsequent slats using tongue-and-groove means.

• Invisible fastening with nails. This method of fastening is similar to the similar fastening with staples. But, in this case, it is not staples that are used, but narrow nails that are galvanized. But the caps should be driven deep into the material, otherwise they will stick out and interfere with the fastening of the next board.

Installation of eurolining with your own hands

• The first board is placed as straight as possible in a vertical position in the right corner. In this case, you cannot do without a level. This is important because all other boards that are attached to the starting board must be perfectly level.
• Next, the lining is fastened using any of the methods described earlier.
• The next board must be inserted with a tenon into the groove of the initial one and driven tightly along the board. Next, check the evenness of the vertical using a level or plumb line. If even the slightest inaccuracies occur, the board should be installed anew. The angle must be strictly 90 degrees.

• The last plank is cut to size and, to make the corner more beautiful, it is covered with fittings, in particular a decorative wooden corner.
• Installation of the ceiling with eurolining is carried out according to a similar principle.

Installation of eurolining video

Eurolining care

• In order for the facing board not to lose its attractiveness and to serve as long as possible without changing its characteristics, it requires proper and systematic care, which is directly related to the processing methods and purpose of the lining.
• If the room in which the eurolining will be located is excessively humid or prone to significant temperature changes, then the boards themselves may soon change their appearance, crack and become deformed.
• All kinds of natural impregnations, oils and varnishes can be used for protection. They can also be applied during the operation of the cladding, thereby updating its appearance.
• If you treat the lining with an antiseptic containing boric salt, then it can be used to cover not only saunas and baths, but also external facade Houses. In this case, she will not be afraid of rain, wind, or frost.
• To care for the lining, the use of abrasive substances is prohibited. It will be enough to wipe the wood with a damp cloth dipped in soapy water. If you need to remove a stain on the board, you can use a solvent locally. Subsequently, treat the cleaned area with varnish or oil, depending on what material it was previously treated with.

As you can see, eurolining is a universal natural material that does not require special care, is relatively inexpensive and quite easy to install. Reliability, practicality and amazing appearance of eurolining make it a leader among facing materials.

Lining is a popular material for interior decoration. During work, the question may arise about how to nail it correctly. There are several installation methods. In addition, it can be made of different materials: MDF, plastic, wood.

Regardless of what it is made of, the essence of the fastening does not change. The quality depends mainly on the surface; in other words, the surface must be smooth.

Choosing a fastening method

If the clapboard finishing is done for some time, and in the future it will be dismantled, it is better to fasten it using special clamps. In a bathroom or sauna, it is better to nail the lining with secret nails, which are driven into the groove of each board.

There is an installation method with which you can not only attach it efficiently, but also save time and effort - fix the planks with a construction stapler. It can also be fastened with screws; this fastening method is generally suitable for domestically produced material.

How to nail the lining correctly

The lining is mounted on a flat surface. Almost every wall or ceiling has flaws, so before starting fastening it is worth doing the sheathing.

Installation of sheathing

Attached to the surface wooden beam size 50 x 50 (minimum 20 x 40), the distance between the beams is 40 cm. If insulation is used, then the distance between the beams is the width of the insulation.

The timber is nailed to a brick wall, and to a wooden wall - with nails or self-tapping screws. The first block is attached in the very corner and set by level or using a plumb line. The second beam is in the corner opposite to the first.

We stretch the cords along the upper and lower edges of the bars. We retreat 40 - 50 cm from the first block and mount the next one, aligning it along the stretched cords. All other bars on all walls are attached in the same way. It is advisable to check each beam with a level, since the quality of the fastening depends on the quality of the sheathing.

How to attach plastic lining

First you need to prepare the tool:

• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• screwdriver and electric drill;
• plumb and level;
• mounting knife;
• stapler;
• hammer.

We will also take care of additional material:

• screws,
• dowels,
• Staples,
• plinth.

The profile or baseboard is stapled to the sheathing. The clapboard is inserted into the plinth and secured to the timber in the groove using a stapler. The tenon part of the next part is inserted into the groove of the fixed one. It is fixed in the same way as the first one, with a stapler in the groove.

All subsequent panels are attached using the same technology. The last panel is cut to size (if necessary) and inserted into. Upon completion of the installation of plastic lining, the ceiling is washed warm water using a sponge.

How to attach wooden lining

Installation begins from top to bottom, tenons up, so that dust, dirt, and moisture do not accumulate in the grooves. The nails are driven into the groove, into its back wall. For fastening, so-called finishing nails are used, the length of which is 50 mm and with a small head.

They are driven in at an angle of 45° as carefully as possible so as not to damage the bar. The first plank is nailed under the ceiling. The second one is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the first board and fixed. Then the next one and all the others using the same technology, to the very bottom.

The last plank is cut to size and secured. The resulting gap near flooring are closing wooden baseboard. Corner joints are covered with a decorative corner. When the lining is positioned vertically, installation begins from front door, with a spike towards the opening.

The nails are driven in with a simple hammer, short blows with a small swing. After completing the installation work, the surface is treated with stain and varnish, this will significantly extend its service life.

Advantages

Lining has a number of advantages over other types of finishing materials. It can be used not only for interior decoration, but also external. It helps to level walls without much effort.

Wooden - environmentally friendly and natural, will fill the room with warmth, comfort and the aroma of wood. If properly processed, it will serve for more than 10 years.

Plastic – moisture resistant, does not fade, has a wide palette color shades, has high level noise and heat insulation.

Flaws

For wood panels required additional protection from moisture. Over time, it may lose its original appearance. Plastic can release substances harmful to health.

Kinds

The lining can be wooden or plastic. Wooden is used for interior or exterior finishing:

1. residential houses and cottages;
2. gazebos;
3. saunas or baths.

For the manufacture of lining, wood of the following species can be used:

1. ash;
2. aspen;
3. alder;
4. cedar.

Wooden is divided into several classes:

• “Extra” or “0-class” class - has an ideal appearance and a minimum amount of roughness on the surface.
• Class “A” - for every 1.5 m of the product, one knot, one resin pocket and several cracks are allowed.
• Class “B” - up to four knots per every 1.5 m are allowed, as well as several cracks and resin pockets.
• Class “C” - there may be resin bags, blue spots, stripes and mechanical damage.

Plastic is mainly used for finishing:

1. interior spaces;
2. building facades;
3. roof overhangs;
4. ceilings.

Can be divided into:

• laminated panels, patterned like wood, metal, granite or marble;
• panels with a single color and shade;
• panels with or without seams.

In addition, plastic may differ in profile shape. Depending on the form, this could be:

• panel type, it is simple and imitates a wooden beam;
• eurolining is distinguished by a deep tongue-and-groove connection, with an increased tenon size, which allows for good ventilation and moisture evaporation, used in finishing facades;
• calm lining has an almost ideal smooth surface;
• lining - American main difference - recesses with inside, is installed with an overlap, thanks to this there are no seams between the panels, it is made only from wood and is used for exterior decoration;
• - made in the form of convex bars, imitating a wooden building.

Watch the video: Wall decoration with clapboard

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