The carpenter's workbench is the cornerstone of a woodworker's workshop. It allows you to properly organize your workspace, increase productivity and improve the quality of work, regardless of whether you are a fan of manual or electromechanical tools. In this material we will tell you how to make a classic wooden workbench with your own hands.
About carpentry workbenches
Design and purpose of the workbench
A carpentry workbench is a work table for manual and machining wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: making wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them finishing compounds. A traditional carpenter's table is designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer workpieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.
A table for carpentry work consists of a bench board (cover) and a bench (supporting frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.
There are holes in the table top and the wooden jaws of the vice. They are designed for installing clamps and stops of various sections and heights.
Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, the part is placed between them and pressed with the screw mechanism of the vice. This way the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, use a stop of appropriate height that will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.
How to choose the optimal workbench height?
The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal height The table is selected based on the height of the master. If, standing at the workbench, your palms rest freely on its lid, then the size has been selected correctly. At such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.
What materials are best to make the structure from?
A carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to large loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are ensured not only by the features of the fastening units, but also the type of materials used.
Wood is traditionally used to make the base. coniferous species. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the bench board must be dry (humidity about 12%) without knots and other defects.
About making a workbench cover
Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to purchase a ready-made glued board, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the funds saved.
When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the cover: drilling, chiselling, etc., work surface It is better to cover the workbench with a thick sheet of plywood or fiberboard, cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately together with the workbench.
Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls
The sidewall design consists of two legs (B), drawers and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through-glued tenon.
The figured cutouts of the drawers and supports (detail A) are cut out on band saw followed by sanding the edges.
In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, markings are made on the legs for the tenons of the prongs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.
On outside The legs are tapped into a conical recess under the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.
Sawing out tenons and eyes
Spikes and eyes are made on sawing machine or manually, guided basic principles creating tenon joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a perfect fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared, flat surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.
The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.
Side panel assembly
Parts A and B are glued together to form a finished joint. After drying, any excess glue that appears is carefully cleaned off with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is sanded.
In the center of the glued drawer, drill a 19x38 mm hole for a dowel (L) to fix the workbench cover.
Manufacturing of pedestals and underbench shelves
According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for the legs (part C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As with the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw.
The connection of the legs with the sidewall is made detachable using a bolt tie with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and depth 32 mm is milled on the inside of the legs. A 14X95 mm hole is drilled at the ends of the legs. At this stage it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.
The support strips (parts D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 22 mm from the upper edges of the supports.
According to the dimensions specified in the “General detailing” drawing, the planks of the underbench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersunk at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.
Installation of the bench cover
There is no drilling on the back side of the bench board. through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L).
Using a drill bit d19 mm, through holes are made on the cover for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the lid. All holes are chamfered. The stops should fit easily into the sockets and not have any play.
Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure clean holes at a perfectly right angle. It won’t be difficult to make such a guide yourself, if you have a piece of timber on hand.
Installation of a bench vise
Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to buy a carpenter's vice at finished form. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, you will get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.
Manufacturers of bench vices try to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the installation diagram standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of a non-standard bench vise.
Vise jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are cut from hardwood. After this, holes are drilled for the guide rods, lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.
The rear jaws of the front and rear vices are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.
Wooden linings (part K) are cut to fit the size of the vice. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.
Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces masking tape and a soft pencil.
A well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpentry workbench, equipped with all kinds of devices for processing parts, is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, you can buy a desktop in a retail chain. However, we recommend making it yourself.
Firstly, this will allow you to receive the product the right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench optional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy quality tool. If these arguments have given you a reason to think about making a workbench with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a good-quality, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.
A durable and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during prolonged work with wooden parts.
The carpentry workbench is essentially massive, reliable table for processing wooden products of any size. The main requirements for equipment of this type are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of devices for securing and holding workpieces. The dimensions of the work table are selected depending on the size and weight of the parts being processed, as well as free space in a workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can even be placed on a balcony.
Since the work carried out on a carpentry machine is carried out using hand and electric tools, the workbench is made of solid timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in other words, the workbench board, is assembled only from hard wood. When making countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the tabletop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic updating. Often, a workbench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, placing them on an edge.
A series of holes made on the working surface of the table allows you to install thrust elements for easy processing of long wooden workpieces.
In order to facilitate the design, the supporting legs of the desktop, on the contrary, are made of soft wood. The vertical supports are connected to each other by a longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.
A vice of a special design is hung on the front and side of the workbench for fastening workpieces. In addition, on large-sized machines, separate clamping devices are installed for large and small parts. The optimal location for a carpenter's vice is the left side of the front apron and the near part of the right side panel.
In the underbench - the space between the supports, under the table top, they often equip convenient shelves And drawers for storing tools and accessories.
For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the tabletop for fittings and small parts. Often, a difficult-to-manufacture recess is replaced with a frame made of wooden slats.
Types and design.
All homemade work tables for carpentry work can be divided into three types:
1. Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with one vice and are made partly from metal elements. Such machines are intended for working with small, lightweight workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. Mobile desktop is excellent option if there is not enough space and can be installed in any room in the country house or on the balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.
If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for minor repair work or the manufacture of small parts you can convert an old desk.
2. A stationary carpentry workbench is manufactured with reference to a specific location and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to process parts of any size and weight.
carpentry workbench
A stationary carpentry workbench is a reliable, stable structure, arranged in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the characteristics of the room
3.A compound type machine is the most difficult to manufacture. However, due to its variability, this design is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the workbench are connected to each other by bolted joints.
Diagram of a composite workbench
A composite workbench is a structure that can be adjusted to any requirement
Project and drawings.
When developing the design of a carpentry workbench the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will use the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.
Considering that you will have to work at a carpentry bench for a long time, the closest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.
When determining the distance from the floor to the tabletop, it is best to focus not on average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the same level as the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the tabletop, then you will be able to work tirelessly at such a workbench for several hours.
The cover of the machine can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a stacked structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for these purposes. Professional carpenters have long ago determined optimal size tabletops - maximum 2 m in length and 0.7 m in width. On such a workbench, you can equally easily make a prefabricated wooden door, and a small window.
When designing a structure, do not forget about the strength of the supporting frame. For supporting elements of the structure, timber with a cross-section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use slats and beams with a smaller cross-section - from 50 - 60 mm or more. The joints of the parts are mounted on tenons or dowels; furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamentality of the structure.
Often the frame, or otherwise the workbench frame, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material allows you to make a structure with less labor costs adjustable height, professional carpenters prefer all-wood structures.
Next, let's look at the project carpenter's table¸ made of plywood, or rather from two plywood sheets 1.8 mm thick glued together. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the presented dimensions are not a dogma and can, if necessary, be adjusted in accordance with the needs and characteristics of the specific room used as a workshop.
Required Tools and materials
Plywood 18 mm thick is sufficient expensive material(the price of one sheet measuring 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding delivery costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, larger sheet measuring 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase scraps of plywood at least 300 mm wide, which will be used to reinforce the workbench cover around the perimeter.
Additionally, to build a carpentry machine you will need:
wooden beam with a cross-section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
timber or slats with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
When choosing lumber for a carpentry workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for the absence of knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will be subject to prolonged load;
electric drill with a set of regular and feather drills;
pieces of boards at least 1.5 m long for placing under clamps;
wood glue. Good result can be obtained using the domestic adhesive composition “Moment Joiner”;
furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
Circular Saw;
carpenter's square;
long rule (at least 2 m);
construction level;
a notched spatula with the size of the cut sectors not less than 3 mm;
carpentry clamps.
The clamps needed to compress plywood sheets when gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have high-quality tools, then you can get by with inexpensive clamping devices made in China. Of course the number similar devices should be doubled.
Manufacturing instructions.
1.To make a tabletop, cut two blanks with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet maximum length, then you need to saw off one piece 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After this, use the rule to check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.
To properly glue plywood sheets, they are folded with their convex sides facing each other.
2. Having laid one workpiece on three parallel boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched spatulas. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. The manufacturer of Moment Joiner glue recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not confident in the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time restrictions. Of course, the strength of the joint will be slightly reduced, but even a good quality PVA furniture mixture will provide an acceptable degree of adhesion.
Gluing the tabletop
To avoid damage to the workpiece, place it under the clamps. support boards
3. Having laid the second piece on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table top and begin to tighten the table top with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using a rule. It will not be possible to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.
You can glue plywood sheets into a board without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient mass.
4.After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and begin to strengthen the side surfaces of the tabletop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued along the entire perimeter of the lid in two layers. When performing this work, be sure to ensure that upper layer completely covered the joints.
Making a countertop
Reinforcing the side parts of the workbench with additional plywood strips
5.For trimming the side surfaces of the table, use circular saw. The parquet is driven smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm, observing right angles, for which they use a carpenter's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
6. The supports of the workbench are made of timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with legs and drawers, for which lumber is used cross section not less than 60x60 mm. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.
Construction of the countertop
Making a carpentry workbench frame
7.The legs are assembled “in a tenon” or using dowels, making sure to apply wood glue to the parts to be joined.
8. When assembling the upper and lower frames of the subframe, carefully maintain 90-degree angles between the parts. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, even at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are trimmed correctly. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the bottom rung of 150 mm.
9. To attach the table top to the bench, long drawers are drilled in three places, through which the workbench parts are secured with 8 mm self-tapping screws with a length of at least 100 mm.
10.To prevent the head of the hardware and the washer from protruding beyond the support elements, a recess is made in them feather drill.
Making a workbench
Holes made in the parts with a feather drill will help hide the bolt heads and washers.
If desired, you can build a shelf in the bench. To do this, a plywood panel is cut to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.
Installation of additional equipment.
It is impossible to imagine a real carpentry workbench without devices designed for fastening the workpieces being processed. For these purposes, a vice is attached to the finished tabletop in such a way that its jaws are flush with the surface of the lid. To correctly install the device on the workbench, apply a vice to the machine and mark the fastening points. After this, holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill holes for the washers and bolt heads.
If it is not possible to install a stationary vice, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.
In addition to the vice, there are stops on the work table. To do this, a series of holes are drilled in the tabletop. The best stops are considered to be parts made of wood, since metal devices can damage the workpiece. The sockets for the supporting elements are located at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vice. This will allow you to securely secure a workpiece of any size.
A workbench is an indispensable attribute of any carpentry workshop. It is a work table used for tooling workpieces, storing tools, materials, drawings and accessories.
In this article we will look at the design and dimensions of workbenches, offer an overview of the most popular factory models and present step-by-step instructions, following which you can make a homemade carpentry workbench.
1 Construction and design of carpentry workbenches
Just as for a blacksmith the main working tool is a grinding anvil, so in a carpentry workshop the main working element is a workbench. Such a work table is universal; it simultaneously acts as a place for cutting, processing and assembling wooden parts, storing working tools and accessories.
The basic part of the design of any workbench, no matter how many operations will be performed on it, is a regular tabletop made of hardwood (beech and oak are best). The thickness of the tabletop should be 60-70 mm, while a longitudinal groove is cut in the back along its entire length for storing small tools. Large fixtures are stored in the underbench - a shelf under the tabletop.
The carpentry workbench must have a vice, which is used to fix the workpieces being processed. The functionality of the table is significantly expanded by holes for installing clamps, which are drilled along the edge internal contour countertops.
The overall height of the structure must be selected based on the height of the master; it usually varies between 70-80 cm. The width and length of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workshop or garage; for a single-seat work table, the optimal length is 2 meters, the width is around 90 cm.
A stationary table can weigh up to 100 kilograms. If you plan to make a folding workbench, then you will need to take care of making it lighter by using less thick wood. The folding design implies the possibility of unscrewing the tabletop from the legs, while the legs themselves can be collapsible or telescopic.
In the workshop, it is best to place the workbench near the window, which will give the workplace daylight during the daytime. The presence of artificial lighting is mandatory, and several sockets for connecting power tools should be placed near the tabletop.
1.1 Material selection and assembly
Planed timber measuring 100*70 mm is well suited for making the frame and legs; for the tabletop it is best to take planed oak or beech boards 4-5 cm thick. More cheap option- tabletop made of chipboard sheet, however, it will last less. Remember that the thicker the boards used, the heavier and more stable the carpentry workbench will be, which will have a positive effect on the ease of work.
Fastening elements are selected based on whether the table will be stationary (nails and screws are used) or prefabricated (bolts and nuts). From power tools for installation work you will need a drill, a grinder and a screwdriver; a sanding machine will also be useful, but you can get by with a regular plane.
A do-it-yourself carpentry workbench is made in two stages - assembling the frame and installing the tabletop. When assembling the base, you need to try to get the most rigid frame possible; this can be achieved by placing horizontal jumpers between the legs (at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor), which will later serve as a load-bearing element for installing shelves.
The frame beams can be connected to each other by gluing them into a tongue-and-groove system, but it is most convenient to use metal corners and self-tapping screws. You can increase the reliability of the structure by rigidly screwing one of the horizontal jumpers to the wall, but this solution is applicable only when making a stationary workbench.
Having finished with the base, you can move on to assembling the second part - the tabletop. If the work surface consists of several boards, they need to be joined together as carefully as possible so that moisture and dust do not accumulate in the cracks. The boards are connected on 3 bars (side and central) located under the tabletop. The dimensions of the tabletop should be such that its contours extend beyond the base by 5-10 cm. Upon completion of assembly, the tabletop is sanded and covered with drying oil; the easiest way to secure it to the base is with steel corners.
You need to fasten the vice to the workbench using M12 bolts and nuts, and you must first cut holes in the tabletops for the bolt heads. You can place the vice in any place convenient for you, but not in a corner, since under heavy load it can break off.
The construction of a carpentry workbench also requires the presence of stops, which can be purchased ready-made and secured with bolts, or made by hand. For the stops, holes are cut in the front part of the tabletop, in which the machined parts are placed. wooden blocks. For more reliable fixation, they can be made in the form of pegs expanding towards the top.
1.2 Homemade workbench (video)
2 Selecting a factory-made workbench
If it is not possible to make a homemade desktop workbench, it makes sense to pay attention to factory-made products. In the budget price category The best choice would be the Unipro 16900u desktop, which can be purchased for less than 3 thousand rubles.
Unipro 16900u is great metal workbench, which is well suited for home amateur use. The work table has dimensions of 520*300 mm, which allows you to process workpieces up to 265 mm wide. On the surface of the tabletop there is a protractor, an inch and a metric scale, and there are also sliding holders for workpieces.
The Unipro 16900u model is designed for total load up to 100 kg, while the weight of the structure itself is 8 kg. Despite its compactness, the table is quite stable; its only drawback is the supplied bolts, which are made of soft metal. Reviews from owners indicate that it is very easy to tear off the bolt head with a bat, so immediately after purchase it makes sense to replace the bolts with better ones.
If you need a professional workbench, we recommend paying attention to the Master Cut series from Wolfcraft (Germany). The line includes metal tables, for which the manufacturer provides a 10-year guarantee, which indicates their highest quality.
Wolfcraft offers following models carpentry workbenches:
- Wolfcraft Master Cut 1500 - working area 78*50 cm, height 86 cm, can withstand a load of 200 kg. Price 24 thousand rubles.
- Wolfcraft Master 700 - features an adjustable height between 78-95 cm and a smaller table (68*39 cm). Designed for a load of up to 150 kg, cost - 17 thousand.
- Wolfcraft Master Cut 200 is the most affordable model in the line of professional equipment (price 7 thousand). The tabletop for the workbench has dimensions of 30*44 cm, height - 80 cm. This is an excellent student desk that can be considered as universal workbench for household use.
The German company's assortment also includes carpentry workbenches with drawers for storing tools - Wolfcraft Workshop. Their working surface is made of solid beech 30 mm thick and covered with a sheet of galvanized steel. Characteristic feature The Workshop series is modular - the client gets the opportunity to independently choose the configuration of the storage compartment by combining the shelves and drawers offered in the catalog different sizes at your own discretion.
The total load that the Workshop system can withstand is 600 kg, while the maximum weight per box should not exceed 600 kg. The cost of such equipment directly depends on its configuration; prices start from 40 thousand rubles.
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In any private home, workshop or garage, a carpentry workbench is a very necessary item. With its help it is convenient to make or repair any things, and it also combines the functions of a table and a shelf for tools at the same time. It can be equipped with a bench vice, and a sharpening machine can be installed on it various instruments. If you buy a metal workbench in a store, it will cost a considerable amount of money, but it is quite possible to make a workbench from wood with your own hands.
Required tools and materials
So for self-made For a workbench in the garage you will need the following tools:
- Hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
- Roulette;
- Square;
- Building level;
- Spanners;
- Drill;
- Screwdriver.
Materials:
- bars for supports;
- 2 sheets of plywood or OSB (one of the sheets is cut to fit a shelf of the required size);
- boards for the frame;
- self-tapping screws;
- bolts;
- washers;
- nuts
Before work, you need to make a drawing of the workbench with dimensions for ease of assembly.
Step-by-step instructions for making a workbench
To make the upper frame, it is necessary to saw off the boards based on the required size of the workbench (see photo).
Using self-tapping screws, secure 2 long and 2 short boards so that you get rectangular frame. Using a tape measure, mark the distance to the middle of the frame, and perpendicularly, between two long boards, secure the remaining short board, attaching it with self-tapping screws at both ends.
To make the legs of the workbench, you will need to saw off 6 equal bars. WITH inside of the resulting base, secure one leg to each corner of the frame using bolts, washers and nuts (see diagram of the workbench).
To make the structure rigid, it is necessary to install additional boards, which will also serve as the basis for the lower shelf. To do this you need to saw off 4 boards.
Using a tape measure, you need to measure an equal distance from each leg of 30 cm, at the resulting level, fasten the board to the back of the structure to 3 legs, and from the front, fasten the board between the outer and middle legs, in the place where the future shelf is planned.
The remaining two boards must be secured to the legs, at the same level as the boards for the shelves.
From one or more sheets of plywood or OSB using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw cut out the required sections. We fix them flush to the top of the workbench using self-tapping screws. Additionally, you can fasten a sheet of hardboard on top, because it can be easily replaced with a new one if the old one is very worn out. The bottom shelf is made using the same scheme. Using a tape measure, measure the distance between the outer and middle legs of the workbench; a sheet of material is cut to this size and installed on the resulting base.
When attaching legs or crossbars, it is necessary to use a square to obtain an equal distance between parts of the structure. Using a level at the installation site, you need to check whether the workbench you made yourself is level. If there is a slope, it must be leveled by placing wooden chips under the legs of the workbench.
Country construction, site design and small renovation work require special skills and time. But it is also necessary to have high-quality tools and accessories that will help in these processes. A workbench, which is essential for any construction project, will not be amiss. will go wherever faster.
A carpenter's or mechanic's workbench is a special table for working with wood or metal. They have a hard and durable surface large area and tool boxes. Additionally, additional accessories for carrying out work can be installed - a drill, a vice, a circular saw, a small cutter, etc.
Today we will try to make a carpentry workbench with our own hands (it can also serve as a metalworker’s), assemble it correctly and equip it.
As usual, we will reduce the cost of our product as much as possible and even use old interior items and improvised means.
Almost any old table can serve as the basis for the production of a workbench. It could be dinner table or a cabinet table that you no longer need in your country house. You just need to first inspect the piece of furniture so that it is not too shabby.
Table preparation
Initially, you will need to prepare the table - tighten all the bolts and nuts, screws and other fasteners. It will be necessary to inspect the supporting frame for cracks and, if any, install metal or wooden overlays to ensure the strength of the parts.
Afterwards, lightly putty, treat with wood preservatives or simply paint with a special protective varnish.
When we have a slightly updated and durable table in front of us, we can begin.
Product assembly
As usual, the surface of the workbench is a durable surface for a wide variety of work. Therefore, to install the tabletop, we must choose high-quality boards with a thickness of at least 20-30 mm. We install them sequentially on the existing table surface, tighten them with self-tapping screws, trying to leave as few gaps as possible.
The new tabletop should be slightly larger than the old one and have an overlap of 15-20 cm on each side so that equipment can be hung comfortably and securely. Where electrical equipment is installed for the workbench, you can put a double layer of boards to make the base stronger.
Arrangement of tool storage boxes
Now we should take care of the boxes in which we will store tools, fasteners, and various parts. These should be strong wooden boxes convenient systems, with durable fittings. How to assemble wooden boxes and work with various forms, we already know, and therefore we will not go into details. It is only worth noting that each element of the box must be treated with protective impregnation.
There should be several boxes, for example, 2-3 on each side. It is worth first assessing the placement and making markings so that the installed fragments do not interfere with comfortable work at the finished workbench.
Equipment installation
Classic equipment in in this case vices and wooden clamps are considered. In addition, you can install a high-power stationary drill, a milling element, some turning equipment. But most often the workbench is built as an ordinary plane for comfortable work, and the equipment is purchased separately. For a summer house, a drill, a grinder, or a circular saw are enough.
Installation of equipment should be well thought out in terms of convenience and safety, all fastenings must be checked and securely tightened. If the equipment involves connecting to an electrical network, you should correctly calculate the power, wire cross-section, and make the connection itself correctly. This work may require the assistance of a qualified electrician.
We combine carpentry and metal workbench
At our dacha we don’t have much time, space or money to make two separate workbenches for work, although we may need both a carpenter’s and a metalworker’s workbench. To reduce costs and time loss, and also not to take up a lot of space in the garage or shed by installing two bench tables, we suggest making two from one at once.
To produce a practical work station we will need to increase the surface area slightly. This may require strengthening the base with additional parts of the frame on which the tabletop will rest.
When the working part is ready, half of it should be covered with thin stainless steel sheet. It can be secured with self-tapping screws or special rivets. It is advisable to cover not only the top plane, but also the end elements, which, by the way, can be done along the entire perimeter.
Do-it-yourself workbench for a summer house from scratch
It’s good when you have something to start with, but it’s a little more difficult if you don’t have an old table for a workbench. But you shouldn’t be upset, because you can make it from scratch workplace strictly to your requirements, higher strength and exactly the size and shape that you need. So let's get started.
Materials for production
Before starting work, you should prepare the following materials:
- Wooden beam 50x100 mm for the production of support lintels, supporting the supporting part of the tabletop;
- Wooden beam 80x100 mm for the support block and frame bases;
- Wooden beam 50x150 mm for installing end parts;
- Planed board 50x200 mm for assembling the tabletop;
- Stainless steel sheet for covering part of the table top:
- Bolts, screws and rivets for assembly;
- Adhesive for intermediate fastenings, protective impregnation;
- Plastic or rubberized lining for the support block.
Standard manufacturing tools - a hacksaw for cutting wood, a hammer and mallet, a drill and bits, a chisel, additional tools, if you will be preparing special details.
Workbench production diagram
Additionally, we decided to provide you with a production diagram standard version, perhaps she will help you assemble a high-quality “piece of furniture” for small jobs in the country.
Carpentry workbench: step-by-step instructions
- First, you should determine the size of the workbench - its working surface and supporting part. For example, we chose a surface size of 80x160 cm, and the size of each supporting part is 60 cm. The height of the workbench is 85 cm - this overall size, so should not be confused with height individual parts frame.
- Secondly, prepare a drawing (perhaps take something from the diagram above).
- Thirdly, put down dimensions, mark and cut the material.
You can start by assembling the tabletop, for the production of which we will need to create a body around the perimeter (be sure to take into account the overlap on each side). The body will need to be strengthened wooden beam, thereby creating increased strength.
We install the supporting part of the frame on the support block, and only then the tabletop.
For connections, we recommend choosing bolts and nuts that will permanently hold the wood pieces together when passed through and clamped. You can also use wood glue for greater reliability and strength of each connection, apply it to the parts to be glued and only then tighten the bolts.
While working, make sure that the dimensions are consistent and that the levels are maintained, since in further processes related to the workbench, such errors can cost time, effort and nerves. Only on a high-quality workbench can you work with pleasure.
Equipping the workbench, preparing for work
In order not to repeat ourselves, we suggest paying attention to the previous sections, since a new workbench can be equipped and equipped in exactly the same way as one created on the basis old furniture.
The only question that remains is installation and preparation for work. You will need to install ready product on a flat surface, indoors. It is advisable to protect all materials with special impregnations; put pads on the support block or workbench legs. Now only the equipment that we have already talked about earlier, and interesting projects from you.
How to make a workbench for your dacha yourself (video)
Share your ideas about making workbenches for gardening, as well as interesting thoughts about crafts that can be made with them. For our part, we propose to consider useful articles on the site about the construction of rabbit hutches, birdbaths, feeders and houses for squirrels, birdhouses and other small things, in the process of creating which it will be useful to use a workbench.