Do-it-yourself warm floor from city heating networks. How to make a heated floor and connect it to existing heating How to make heated floors from heating

In rooms heated using underfloor heating technology, the feeling is much more comfortable than with a traditional radiator system. When the floor is heated, the temperature is distributed optimally: the feet are warmest, and at head level it is cooler. There are two heating methods: water and electric. Water is more expensive to install, but cheaper to operate, so this is what is used more often. You can slightly reduce installation costs if you make a water heated floor with your own hands. The technology is not the simplest, but it does not require encyclopedic knowledge.

Design and principle of operation

For water heating of a heated floor, a system of pipes is used through which the coolant circulates. Most often, pipes are poured into a screed, but there are dry installation systems - wooden or polystyrene. In any case, there is a large number of small cross-section pipes laid under the floor covering.

Where can it be mounted?

Due to the large number of pipes, water heating is done mainly in private homes. The fact is that the heating system of early high-rise buildings is not designed for this heating method. It is possible to make a warm floor using heating, but there is a high probability that either your place will be too cold, or your neighbors above or below will, depending on the type of power supply to the system. Sometimes the entire riser becomes cold: the hydraulic resistance of the water floor is several times higher than that of a radiator heating system and it can block the movement of the coolant. For this reason, it is very difficult to obtain permission from the management company to install a heated floor (installation without permission is an administrative offense).

The good news is that in new buildings they began to make two systems: one for radiator heating, the second is for water heated floors. In such houses, permission is not required: the corresponding system was developed taking into account higher hydraulic resistance.

Principles of organization

To understand what you need to make a water heated floor with your own hands, you need to understand what the system consists of and how it works.

Adjusting the coolant temperature

In order for your feet to feel comfortable on the floor, the temperature of the coolant should not exceed 40-45°C. Then the floor warms up to comfortable values ​​- about 28°C. Most heating equipment cannot produce such a temperature: at least 60-65°C. Exception - condensation gas boilers. They show maximum efficiency at low temperatures. From their output, the heated coolant can be supplied directly to the underfloor heating pipes.

When using any other type of boiler, a mixing unit is required. In it, cooled coolant from the return pipeline is added to the hot water from the boiler. You can see the composition of this connection in the diagram for connecting the heated floor to the boiler.

The operating principle is as follows. The heated coolant comes from the boiler. It goes to a thermostatic valve, which, when the temperature threshold is exceeded, opens the admixture of water from the return pipeline. In the photo there is a jumper in front of the circulation pump. A two-way or three-way valve is installed in it. Open it and mix in the cooled coolant.

The mixed flow through the circulation pump enters the thermostat, which controls the operation thermostatic valve. When the set temperature is reached, the supply from the return stops; if it is exceeded, it opens again. This is how the temperature of the water heated floor coolant is adjusted.

Contour distribution

Next, the coolant enters the distribution comb. If the water heated floor is made in one small room(bathroom, for example), in which only one loop of pipes is laid, this unit may not exist. If there are several loops, then it is necessary to somehow distribute the coolant between them, and then somehow collect it and send it to the return pipeline. This task is performed by the distribution comb or, as it is also called, the underfloor heating manifold. Essentially these are two pipes - supply and return, to which the inputs and outputs of all underfloor heating circuits are connected. This is the simplest option.

If the heated floor is installed in several rooms, then it is better to install a collector with the ability to regulate the temperature. Firstly, in different rooms required different temperatures: some people prefer +18°C in the bedroom, others need +25°C. Secondly, most often, contours have different lengths, and can transfer different amounts of heat. Thirdly, there are “internal” rooms - in which one wall faces the street, and there are corner ones - with two or even three external walls. Naturally, the amount of heat in them should be different. This is ensured by combs with thermostats. The equipment is not cheap, the circuit is more complicated, but this installation allows you to maintain the desired temperature in the room.

There are different thermostats. Some control the air temperature in the room, while others control the floor temperature. You choose the type yourself. Regardless of this, they control servomotors mounted on the feed comb. Servomotors, depending on the command, increase or decrease the flow area, regulating the intensity of the coolant flow.

Theoretically (and practically it happens), situations may arise when the supply to all circuits is cut off. In this case, the circulation will stop, the boiler may boil and fail. To prevent this from happening, be sure to create a bypass through which part of the coolant passes. With this system design, the boiler is safe.

You can watch one of the system options in the video.

Laying a warm water floor

One of the key components of the system is pipes and their fixation system. There are two technologies:

Both systems are imperfect, but laying pipes in a screed is cheaper. Although it has a lot of disadvantages, it is due to its lower cost that it is more popular.

Which system to choose

In terms of cost, dry systems are more expensive: their components (if you take ready-made, factory-made ones) cost more. But they weigh much less and are put into operation faster. There are several reasons why you should use them.

First: the heavy weight of the screed. Not all foundations and floors of houses are able to withstand the load created by a water-heated floor in a concrete screed. Above the surface of the pipes there must be a layer of concrete of at least 3 cm. If we take into account that the outer diameter of the pipe is also about 3 cm, then the total thickness of the screed is 6 cm. The weight is more than significant. And on top there is often another tile on a layer of glue. It’s good if the foundation is designed with a reserve, it will hold up, but if not, problems will begin. If there is a suspicion that the ceiling or foundation will not bear the load, it is better to make a wooden or polystyrene system.

Second: low maintainability of the screed system. Although when laying underfloor heating circuits it is recommended to lay only solid coils of pipes without joints, periodically the pipes are damaged. Either it was hit with a drill during repairs, or it burst due to a defect. The location of the damage can be determined by a wet spot, but it is difficult to repair: you have to break the screed. In this case, neighboring loops can be damaged, causing the damage area to become larger. Even if you managed to do it carefully, you have to make two seams, and these are the potential places for further damage.

Third: commissioning of a heated floor in a screed is possible only after the concrete has reached 100% strength. This takes at least 28 days. Before this date, you cannot turn on the heated floor.

Fourth: you're done wooden floor. It's hard in itself wooden floor- not the best idea, and also a screed with an increased temperature. The wood will quickly collapse and the entire system will collapse.

The reasons are serious. Therefore, in some cases, it is more advisable to use dry technologies. Moreover, making a wooden water-heated floor with your own hands is not that expensive. The most expensive component is metal plates, but they can also be made from thin sheet metal and better - aluminum. It is important to be able to bend, forming grooves for pipes.

A variant of a polystyrene heated floor system without screed is demonstrated in the video.

Materials for heated water floors

Most often they make a water heated floor in a screed. About its structure and necessary materials and the speech will begin. The diagram of a warm water floor is shown in the photo below.

All work begins with leveling the base: without insulation, heating costs will be too high, and insulation can only be laid on a flat surface. Therefore, the first thing to do is prepare the foundation - make rough screed. Next, we will describe step by step the order of work and the materials used in the process:

• A damper tape is also rolled out around the perimeter of the room. This is a strip of thermal insulation material, no more than 1 cm thick. It prevents heat loss from heating the walls. Its second task is to compensate thermal expansion which occurs when materials are heated. The tape can be special, or you can lay it cut into strips thin foam(no more than 1 cm thick) or other insulation of the same thickness.
• A layer of heat-insulating materials is laid on the rough screed. For installing heated floors the best choice- expanded polystyrene. Extruded is best. Its density must be at least 35 kg/m2. It is dense enough to withstand the weight of the screed and operating loads, has excellent characteristics and long term operation. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive. Other, cheaper materials (foam, mineral wool, expanded clay), have a lot of disadvantages. If possible, use polystyrene foam. The thickness of thermal insulation depends on many parameters - on the region, characteristics of the foundation material and insulation, and the method of organizing the subfloor. Therefore, it must be calculated in relation to each case.

• Next, a reinforcing mesh is often placed in increments of 5 cm. Pipes are also tied to it - with wire or plastic clamps. If expanded polystyrene was used, you can do without reinforcement - you can fasten it with special plastic brackets, which are driven into the material. For other insulation materials, reinforcing mesh is required.
• Beacons are installed on top, after which the screed is poured. Its thickness is less than 3 cm above the level of the pipes.
• Next, the finished floor covering is laid. Any suitable for use in a heated floor system.

These are all the main layers that need to be laid when you make a water-heated floor with your own hands.

Pipes for heated floors and installation schemes

The main element of the system is pipes. Most often they use polymer ones - made of cross-linked polyethylene or metal-plastic. They bend well and have a long service life. Their only obvious drawback is their not very high thermal conductivity. The recently introduced corrugated stainless steel pipes do not have this disadvantage. They bend better, cost no more, but due to their lack of popularity, they are not yet used often.

The diameter of the pipes for heated floors depends on the material, but usually it is 16-20 mm. They are stacked according to several schemes. The most common are spiral and snake; there are several modifications that take into account some of the features of the premises.

Laying with a snake is the simplest, but as the coolant passes through the pipes it gradually cools down and reaches the end of the circuit much colder than it was at the beginning. Therefore, the zone where the coolant enters will be the warmest. This feature is used - installation begins from the coldest zone - along the external walls or under the window.

The double snake and spiral are almost free of this drawback, but they are more difficult to install - you need to draw a diagram on paper so as not to get confused during installation.

Screed

You can use a regular cement-sand mortar based on Portland cement to fill a water-heated floor. The grade of Portland cement should be high - M-400, or better yet M-500. - not lower than M-350.

But ordinary “wet” screeds take a very long time to gain their design strength: at least 28 days. You can’t turn on the heated floor all this time: cracks will appear that can even break the pipes. Therefore, so-called semi-dry screeds are increasingly being used - with additives that increase the plasticity of the solution, significantly reducing the amount of water and the time for “aging”. You can add them yourself or look for dry mixtures with the appropriate properties. They cost more, but there is less hassle with them: according to the instructions, add the required amount of water and mix.

It’s possible to make a heated water floor with your own hands, but it will take a decent amount of time and a lot of money.

Unlike the usual radiator heating, water heating has come into fashion relatively recently. This system is designed for heating the floor both in a private house and in an apartment. It is used simultaneously as both a radiator and a heat accumulator. It is capable of evenly distributing all the produced thermal energy, and also save significantly on it. Many people are already thinking about how to make a heated floor.

First of all, you need to figure out where you can install floor heating. Most often it is installed in country houses, due to two main reasons. And the first of them is in apartments that are connected to systems central heating, installation of heated floors is usually prohibited. This is explained by the fact that there is a threat of increasing hydraulic resistance.

The second reason is if you connect to centralized system heating, then the water, having passed through all the pipes of the heated floor, will return to the common riser already almost cold.

Considering these nuances, it is best to use in apartments electric heating floor, and in country houses - on the contrary, water. In addition, experts recommend using the latter only in insulated buildings or premises.

Warm floor in the apartment

Many experts do not advise making water floors in multi-storey buildings. But still, some of them say that there is an exception to the rule.

How to make a heated floor from heating in an apartment without harming the neighbors? There is nothing simpler, but this only applies to housing on the first floor (with upper distribution) or top floor(with lower wiring hot water). The fact is that in these apartments the water is returned and it is quite suitable for heating the floor, while the heat in other apartments does not decrease.

There is another heating scheme with warm floors, which does not infringe on the interests of other users. It can be used in a combined bathroom or in a bathroom. But in this case, there can be no talk of any temperature adjustment. It directly depends only on the water in the central heating network, and if the latter is too hot, then the floors will warm up accordingly.

Advantages

The use of floor heating in apartments and especially in private houses has many advantages compared to conventional radiator heating. The first of them, and perhaps the most important, is the most comfortable climate in the house. Uniform heating of the air in the room across the entire surface of the floor almost completely eliminates the risk of colds. The warmth emanating from it prevents your feet from getting too cold.

A warm water floor makes it possible to expand the space of the room by removing radiators from under the windows. This system is completely hidden under the decking, does not take up space, and also allows for full-wall windows.

It can significantly reduce operating costs, since a decrease in temperature of 2 or 3 degrees will not entail any physical discomfort. In addition, the “warm floor” heating system evenly warms the entire room without creating cooled or overheated zones.

The next advantage is the absence of so-called convection currents. Radiator system heating works in this way - the air is heated, which rises and remains under the ceiling, and when it cools down opposite wall, then sinks to the floor. This creates a constant air circulation, lifting and transporting a lot of fine dust.

It should be noted that a water-heated floor is an extremely reliable and safe system in terms of operation. Enough simple design and a well-developed technology of creation and installation allows it to serve faithfully for at least 50 years, and this without additional maintenance.

Project implementation

Warm floors, where the heating source is water, are considered a low-temperature heating device. The maximum heating of the liquid in such a system is no more than 55 ⁰C. And if you consider that the water pipes are located not only under the layer concrete mortar, and the finishing material, then on the floor surface there will be only 35 ⁰С. This temperature is quite enough to feel comfortable. But at higher rates, unpleasant sensations will begin to arise when the skin of your feet touches a surface that is too hot.

Heated water floors are always convenient and comfortable. Especially if you do not need to install a water heating boiler. In private houses and apartments with existing radiators, you can create heated floors from central heating. To do this, a number of conditions must be met.

In any case, the heating system must be equipped with a circulation pump. If it still doesn’t exist, then it is better to purchase and install it than to make a gravity structure with a certain slope of the floor surface. The system can be of two types: one-pipe or two-pipe. In the first case, the supply pipe is connected after the circulation pump, and the return pipe is connected before the pump.

In addition, it is necessary to calculate the length of the contours. For a single-pipe type it should not exceed 30 m, and for a double-pipe type - 50 m. It happens that the contour turns out to be longer, then it is divided into several parts and laid in parallel or in different zones.

Required Items

Heating systems that provide for the connection of a heated floor to the boiler must consist of several basic elements:

● metal-polymer or polymer pipes;

● circulation pump;

● thermal insulation materials;

● heating boiler;

● fasteners, manifolds and fittings;

● control valves and shut-off ball valves.

You can not only install such a heating system yourself, but also make preliminary calculations. If the main source of heat is exclusively a water floor, then it is better to order the project from specialists.

Varieties

Water heating, which is installed on a plane, can be concrete or flooring. The first type involves the installation of a heated floor using a concrete screed, and the second - without it. Flooring must be laid on special aluminum plates, pre-coated with polystyrene padding, or on a wooden floor, as well as on pre-installed joists. But still, concrete screed is considered more common and popular.

Connection

The most simple circuit connecting a warm floor should look like this: the first collector connects the water supply pipelines, and the second, in turn, the return flow. They are connected to the pipes with the coolant itself. This option has one significant drawback - the temperature of the water coming from the boiler is simply impossible to regulate.

The maximum that can be done is to close the shut-off valves, but this does not solve the problem itself. It is known that some decorative floor coverings will deteriorate if they are heated to more than 30 ⁰C. Therefore, it is still advisable to provide temperature control.

In order for the heating floor connection diagram to be complete, it is necessary to add several additional elements, such as a three-way mixer or pump-mixing unit, a circular pump, an air vent and a drain valve.

In addition, instead of shut-off valves, it is better to install thermostatic mixers. By changing the size of the wax rod, it allows bandwidth the tap can function without sudden changes.

The presence of a pumping and mixing unit in the circuit is also necessary. It adds chilled water to the supply when it needs to reduce its overall temperature so that it does not exceed permissible limits.

It is worth paying special attention to the installation of the mixing pump. It must be located between the supply pipe and the supply manifold. The liquid outlet from the output manifold is connected to its third output. This allows the pump to withdraw some of the chilled water and add it to the supply.

Installation procedure

Before you begin work on installing the system, you need to know the sequence of how to make a heated floor from heating according to all existing rules.

The installation procedure consists of several main stages:

● establishing a collection group;

● leveling the floor surface and its preliminary preparation;

● laying pipelines for the future heating system;

● temperature regulation.

Collector group

Work on the installation of floor water heating begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet, which should be located at the same distance from the end consumers. For example, if the heated floor will be located in two rooms, then the box should be placed in the middle between them.

To ensure that the manifold cabinet does not spoil the interior of the room, it is hidden inside the wall. During preparatory activities make a special niche using a grinder or hammer drill. Its size should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the cabinet, and it should be placed near the floor.

The auxiliary water floor system consists of a certain number of pipelines. They are joined in a manifold cabinet and drawn from the main heating system. The box must contain both shut-off and control valves.

After installing the manifold cabinet, the supply and return pipelines are inserted into it. The first carries hot water from the central system, and the second returns cooled water. At the ends of these pipelines, shut-off valves are installed in the form of valves or ball valves, which right time you can turn off the water supply. The transition between them is a special compression fitting.

All the constituent elements of the manifold cabinet are connected to a rail with outlet pipes, to which the pipelines forming the circuit stretch. As you can see in the photo, the heating floor connection diagram is quite simple, so it can be done without the help of a specialist.

Preliminary floor preparation

First of all, you need to check the horizontal plane on which the heating system will be located. Warm water floors are laid only on a previously prepared and leveled surface. And this stage of work should not be neglected. The uniformity of heating directly depends on the same layer of screed over the entire surface of the floor.

After leveling, they begin laying the waterproofing layer. Then a special damper tape is glued to the walls around the perimeter of the room, which can compensate for the linear expansion of the screed or heated floor. The excess is cut off.

"Heated floor (water)" heating is installed only with the use of heat-insulating mats made from materials such as aerated concrete, Velotherm, technical cork, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. They prevent heat loss.

Installation

At this stage, they are fixing the pipelines thermal circuit. The most popular method is to lay and fasten pipes to a special masonry mesh made of metal and laid on insulation. The pipeline is fixed to it using a binding wire.

If the thermal circuit exceeds the length of 70 m, then a second one is made. The pipeline is always carried out according to this principle - from colder zones (windows and doorways) to the warmest zones.

Examination

Hydraulic tests of already laid pipes are carried out only before they begin to be poured cement-sand mortar. They are considered successful if no leaks appear in the pipeline at a water pressure of 6 atmospheres. The time required for the concrete floor to dry completely is at least 10 days. Only if all installation conditions are met water heating will be as efficient, reliable and durable as possible.

Adjustment

The temperature of water floor heating can be adjusted in two ways: manual and automatic. The first is carried out using a ball valve, and the second - by electric drives. It must be said that automatic adjustment is the most effective for water heating.

When building a new house, the question inevitably arises about what type of heating to choose. Considering all the pros and cons various types space heating, you can come to the only the right decision, What better system You simply cannot find anything better than water heated floors. In addition, it can be connected to almost any heat source that uses various energy sources. And since it’s not at all difficult to make a warm floor from heating yourself, you can also save a decent amount of money.



Many owners of apartments and private houses are now refusing traditional ways heating their homes when the only source of heat in the room is a radiator. Gaining increasing popularity modern options allowing the entire room to be heated evenly. In this article we will tell you how to make a heated floor.

What is it like, warm floor?

There are several ways to heat your apartment from below:

• water floor;
• electric heating;
• infrared coating.

A hydronic floor is actually central heating pipes laid horizontally and topped with concrete and finishing. IN electrical systems Heating elements are placed under the coating, and the infrared itself is a coating made of a special material. Before making a heated floor, try to understand its advantages and disadvantages.

Why is he so good?

The undoubted advantages of a water floor include the following:

1. It distributes heat better than conventional batteries - the room warms up more evenly.
2. It is pleasant to walk on a heated floor barefoot, and this is especially important if there are small children in the house.
3. If you have meters installed, you will very soon see that using underfloor heating provides some savings - although for those who pay for heat and hot water according to the standard, this is not particularly important.
4. You can regulate the temperature - to do this, just disconnect or connect individual circuits.
5. There are fewer drafts in the room, and much less dust accumulates on the floor than, say, behind radiators or in the spaces between separate sections.
6. Radiators do not always fit into the style of the room, but there are almost never such problems with the floor - you can choose any type of covering.

Important! If you are thinking about how to make warm floors from water heating, one of the advantages is that when the pipes are laid under the tiles, you do not risk catching a cold, as sometimes happens when a person steps on a cold tile after a hot bath.

Let's talk about the shortcomings

When undertaking any reconstruction, it is necessary to take into account the disadvantages that you will have to face. So, when deciding how to make a heated floor with your own hands, take into account the inevitable disadvantages:

1. The floor itself is not a cheap pleasure; it is much more expensive than installing conventional batteries.
2. Pipes heat up quite strongly, so it is important to choose the coating wisely - wood and laminate are not suitable, you can only use tiles, some types of linoleum and carpet. In any case, finishing materials and technology for laying heated floors must be combined with each other.
3. Installing such a floor is a long and rather dirty task, so it is better to do this during a major renovation.
4. I really need it reliable waterproofing, because pipes sometimes leak.
5. In the event of equipment failure, the floor has to be dismantled completely or in fairly large sections.
6. This type of flooring can only be done in rooms with good thermal insulation.

Important! If you are planning to install such a system in a city apartment, you must obtain approval from the local administration, since your innovation may affect the condition of the heating networks throughout the house.

What and how much?

A good plan is half the success of even such an important task as remodeling the bathroom floor. If you suspect you have a large heat leak, consult a professional. But, in principle, approximate individual calculations can be made.

To begin, select a pipe laying scheme. There are quite a lot of them, but the most popular are:

• snail;
• snake;
• combined.

Important! From the names it is clear how the pipes are laid. Cochlea – arrangement in a spiral, from the center. A snake means that the coolant is located with bends. With a combined scheme, in one half of the room the pipes are laid in a spiral, in the other - with bends. Draw a plan of how the pipes will be located - it is most convenient to do this on a sheet of paper in a box, choosing a certain scale.

If you live in temperate climate and you are making the floor in the bathroom, you can safely proceed from the following considerations:

1. The distance between the pipes can be 15-20 cm.
2. In a cold room (when the walls do not have reliable thermal insulation), the distance should be less - 10 cm.
3. In a large bathroom with uneven thermal insulation, you can use a variable pitch - in the coldest part, place the pipes on minimum distance from each other, in the rest - depending on the quality of the walls.

The basis

Do-it-yourself warm floors from heating can be made efficiently only if there is solid foundation. It depends on how the house is built. The basis is used:

• concrete screed;
• lightweight option.

Important! Concrete screed is suitable for city apartments and most private houses, if we are talking about concrete foundation or sand cushion. But for houses with wooden floors This method is not suitable; a lightweight version is usually used.

Let's go shopping

Having weighed all the advantages and disadvantages, having decided on the diagram and the approximate number of pipes, have you strengthened your decision and are figuring out how to make a heated floor in a private house from a heating system? Well, the next step is purchasing the necessary materials.

You need:

• pipes;
• thermostats;
• damper tape;
• plasticizer;
• collector group;
• insulation (multi-foil);
• expanded polystyrene.

Important! When going to a hardware store to see if everything you need is there and in what form, keep in mind that pieces of pipe will not suit you. You need a solid piece of a certain length, no more than one hundred meters.

It may also happen that your room is cold and large, so you will need several circuits. Everyone needs separate pipe, and also no longer than 100 m. Why such a limitation? The coolant flows at a certain speed. If you need to increase this speed, as happens in pipes that are too long, you will need to increase the pressure. And not every material can withstand this.

What pipes are needed?

The best material for heated floors is a metal-plastic pipe with a cross-section of 16 mm. It bends excellently, and it is not difficult to obtain bends of a very small radius. You can, of course, use polyethylene, but it is not so flexible - it requires quite a lot of effort to bend it.

If we talk about diameter, then the larger it is, the thicker it should be concrete slab, and this, in turn, will lead to a decrease in the efficiency of the entire system. Pipe flow is calculated approximately per 1 square meter. m area:

• for a step of 15 cm it is about 7 m;
• for a step of 10 cm – 10 m.

Important! Metal-plastic is sold in coils. When laying, the coil rolls out immediately along a specific trajectory, which must be prepared in advance.

Thermal insulation

As you know, heat from the pipe goes in different directions. This is not particularly important if you have radiators. But when you make a floor, the direction must be strictly defined - the heat goes up, not down. That is, you need a heat insulator. Foam plastic is most often used for this purpose.

The density of the insulation must be at least 25 kg per cubic meter, but the ideal option is 35 kg/cu. m. Pay attention to the thickness - it should be at least 5 cm. If your house is cold or the bathroom is located in a room that stands directly on the ground, it is better to make a thicker layer - 10 cm.

Screen

A reflective screen is always laid on top of the insulation - it is needed to further reduce heat loss. The following are used as a screen:

• penofol;
• special foam;
• food foil;

In essence, any screen is a metallized film. Penofol is foamed polyethylene with a foil coating - it is often used for wall insulation. A foam screen will cost less, but it is less reliable. Finally, you can use food foil - cheap and cheerful, but you definitely need protection, since it is destroyed by contact with concrete.

Protection

In principle, any screen needs protection. It's not difficult to make. Greenhouse film, which is sold in gardening stores, is suitable for this purpose. It should be thick enough - 75-100 microns.

Important! In addition to screen protection, polyethylene film There is another function - it provides proper humidity, especially when the screed dries.

When laying, pay attention to the following points.

1. The film is glued in pieces that should overlap.
2. The seams need to be properly taped.

Fasteners

To make a high-quality water floor, you will, of course, need fasteners. It is placed on a layer of thermal insulation. It must unite neighboring branches and prevent them from drifting apart. All turns must be positioned as shown on your plan, otherwise you are unlikely to be able to ensure uniform heat distribution. In essence, these elements are designed to make your life easier - they should stand while the screed dries. In this capacity the following are used:

• metal strips;
• metal grid;
• plastic staples.

What to use depends on the conditions:

• You can’t do without metal strips if the concrete pad is thick. Their task is to lift the pipe above the heat insulation layer. The principle of operation is simple - the pipe is clamped in the recesses.
• Metal mesh is good because it is both a fastening element and a reinforcement. The pipe is connected to it with clamps or pieces of wire. The quantity is calculated depending on the length of the pipe - 2 meshes are required for each meter.
• The simplest and cheapest option is plastic staples. With their help, the pipe is simply pinned to the thermal insulation. But this option is not suitable for all cases. To avoid doing this work manually, you can rent or borrow a special stapler. It is not advisable to buy it - of course, if you do not intend to create your own repair company.

Universal option

The easiest way is to make a warm floor with your own hands, using special polystyrene as a gasket. It combines the properties of heat insulation and protection and is easy to install. It has a profiled surface - in the form of grooves or protrusions. The pipe simply fits into the grooves. This material provides very good waterproofing.

Important! If the arrangement of the grooves is not very suitable for you, you can make them yourself, which, however, requires a special cutter.

Preparing concrete

Once you have laid and connected the pipes, you can pour concrete into the entire structure.

Important! You should first fill them with water - the pressure is 4 bar, and wait about two days or even a little more. This is necessary so that a possible leak appears immediately and can be easily eliminated. In some cases, air is pumped into the pipes under pressure - for example, when the system is not yet connected to the heating network. Don't forget to connect a pressure gauge to monitor the pressure while pouring.

The further procedure will be as follows:

1. Attach damper tape along all walls.
2. Calculate the thermal expansion of the concrete pad - at a temperature of 40°C it is 0.5 mm per meter.
3. Multiply the expansion setting by the length of the largest section of floor.
4. Compare the result with the width of the tape.
5. If necessary, lay another layer of tape next to the first
6. If the length of the wall is more than 8 m, make an expansion joint - this is also necessary when the walls differ in width by 2 times or more, as well as in rooms with complex geometry.
7. Lay plastic corrugation or a larger diameter pipe along the thermal seams.
8. Determine the entry of the pipe into the concrete pad - it should not be less than 50 cm on each side.

Important! Pipes must not intersect expansion joints.

Making a solution

Concrete for pouring can, of course, be ordered and delivered to your home. But nothing prevents you from doing it right on the spot. You need:

• cement M300 or M400;
• sand;
• crushed stone

The sand must be washed, and the crushed stone must have a fine fraction, from 5 to 20 mm. Mix the components in the following ratio: 1 part concrete, 1.9 parts sand, 3.7 parts crushed stone. You will get heavy concrete. Not everyone likes this option, because this material has low thermal conductivity. Much more often a cement-granite mixture is used. It's done like this:

1. Take 2 parts of granite crushed stone.
2. Add 1 part cement.
3. Add 4 more pieces of fine granite screenings.
4. Add water at the rate of 7 liters per 1 bucket of cement.

The advantage of the cement-granite mixture is that it conducts heat well and, moreover, does not collapse when heated. You can add reinforcing fiber to the composition. And you definitely need to add a plasticizer designed specifically for heated floors.

Important! The height of the screed is 5-10 cm, the layer above the pipes should not be less than 3 cm.

When to test?

When laying a heated floor, it is important to wait until it dries completely:

• The screed will begin to set in about four hours - of course, if you have chosen the right brand of cement and prepared the concrete well.
• After twelve, you will be able to walk on the floor, but not too often.
• However, until all other operations can be carried out, about a month should pass. And throughout this month you will need to maintain humidity and pressure in the pipes.

After the concrete has completely hardened, a thermal test should be carried out.

Important! Don’t forget that you need to heat the coolant gradually - if it heats up suddenly, the screed can burst, even if it’s made of very high quality.

Completion of work

After the pipes have been laid and the screed has been made, and the entire structure has successfully passed thermal tests, you can begin finishing. This is done in the same way as in all other cases, that is, the surface is leveled, marked, and then the tiles are glued. But there is one caveat - you need to choose a special glue; it should be indicated on the packaging that it is intended for heated floors.

During the process, it may turn out that you will have to lay some tiles on expansion joints:

1. Glue one part of the tile with the glue you are using.
2. The second is to fix it with silicone glue, which compensates for the displacement of the base.

If you try to reduce the process of laying a heated floor to a simple diagram, it will look like this:

1. Remove old covering.

This is not to say that laying heated floors is the simplest type. repair work. But if you wish, you can do it yourself, especially since you will find absolutely everything in the assortment of construction stores. necessary materials– you just need to understand what exactly you need and what suits your purpose.

What is a water heated floor? This is a capital liquid heating system, in which the air in the room is heated through the use of a floor structure with a system of pipes through which the coolant circulates. The heated floor system is connected to a local (gas boiler) or central heating system.

Water floor system heating can be used as the main heating of the house (an independent source of heating) or as an additional one. Depending on the design and heating method, there are different types underfloor heating: water and (cable, rod,).

Water-heated floor heating is a durable and economical heating system, but its installation is associated with significant difficulties and costs. Therefore, installation of underfloor heating systems is entrusted to professionals. For those who have decided to make a water heated floor with their own hands, we will tell you what stages this process consists of and pay attention to the main subtleties of design and installation.

Water heated floor - advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

• effective heat redistribution, ensuring uniform heating of the entire room;

• security natural circulation air;

• compatibility of heated floors with any type of floor covering (provided that it conducts heat well: tiles, laminate, natural stone);

• possibility to install autonomous system(individual heating) or connect to the central heating main;

• reduction in heating costs by 20-40% (compared to radiator);

• independence from power supply (and power outages);

• the ability to regulate the temperature in individual rooms and at any time of the day;

• minimal costs for self-installation;

• the appearance of the room is improved due to the absence of radiators and visible pipes of the heating system;

Minuses:

• inertia of the system. The heating time of the room is 4-6 hours (depending on the volume, area);

• design complexity in the case of using underfloor heating as the only source of room heating;

• high price installation;

• difficult to regulate temperature regime in case of connection to central highway heat supply;

• reducing the height of the room by raising the floor by 100-120 mm;

• the use of such floor coverings like carpet, carpet or rug;

• the possibility of leakage (in an apartment - flooding of neighbors below, in a private house - basement);

• low maintainability of the pipe system;

Water heated floor - DIY installation

Step-by-step instructions for installing water floor heating include four sequential steps:

1. Develop yourself, download a ready-made standard or order individual project warm water floor. At this stage, it is recommended to involve a specialist to eliminate errors.
2. Select equipment and building materials.
3. Install the underfloor heating system correctly.
4. Check and launch the water heated floor for the first time.
5. Finishing, laying flooring (tiles, laminate, linoleum).

Stage 1 - designing a heated floor

Before you begin drawing up a project, you need to make sure that there are no unavoidable obstacles to installing the system indoors. These may include:

• room height. The thickness of the water-heated floor (installed system) is 100-120 mm. This results in the floor being raised to the appropriate height;

• door installation location. Due to the installation of the system, the floor level rises. It is necessary to maintain the height of the doorway at 2200 mm (standard door and installation gaps) or evaluate the possibility of increasing the doorway or estimate how much it will cost to make a custom door;

• window orientation. Windows facing north or northwest, or facing the windy side, or being large in size, may mean that the system capacity will need to be increased to compensate for heat loss through the external loop and provide desired temperature in room;

  Note. If the calculated heat losses are more than 100 W/sq.m. It is not practical to install a water heating system.

• load-bearing capacity of beams or floor slabs. Taking into account the weight of the concrete screed, the ability of the floor slabs or beams to support the weight of the water heated floor system should be assessed. Old floors are not yet a reason to abandon the system as a whole, but it is a reason to look into a water-based floor.

In view of the requirements listed above, water-heated floors in a private house have become more widespread than in apartments in high-rise buildings.

If there are no obstacles to the device, you can begin designing.

Calculation of water heated floor

The required amount of material is calculated depending on the parameters of the heated room and the technical characteristics of the component equipment and materials. The calculation of a warm water floor is made based on the following data:

• floor area and room height;
• material of walls and ceilings;
• degree and type of thermal insulation;
• type of flooring;
• pipe material and diameter;
• power of the heating element (boiler or central);
• desired temperature regime (see table).

Limit (maximum) temperature of the surface of a heated floor for premises for various purposes

After this, a sketch (diagram, drawing) is made, reflecting the installation location of the main equipment, the method and step of pipe placement.

How to make a water heated floor correctly

Be sure to pay attention (device features):

• install in furniture locations heating elements gender is not allowed, because this can cause them to overheat and dry out;

• It is not recommended to exceed the length of the circuit over 90 m (the limit value depends on the cross-section of the pipe);

Maximum length of a water-heated floor circuit (loop) depending on the pipe diameter used

The deviation is explained by the fact that hydraulic resistance (slowing down the movement of the coolant) and thermal load are directly dependent on the diameter of the pipe.

Craftsmen consider the optimal length of the circuit to be 50-60 m (with a pipe cross-section of 20 mm). If necessary, it is advisable to install two circuits of the same length. This is due to the fact that as it moves through the pipes, the hot water releases some of the thermal energy, and the floor temperature decreases. The use of short circuits will ensure uniform heating of the floor over the entire area.

Note. The length of the circuit is calculated from the point of exit from the collector, not only at the point of entry into the heated room.

• The pitch for laying underfloor heating pipes is 100-500 mm;

Note. When using a water heated floor as an additional (alternative) heating source, a pipe laying step of 300-500 mm is recommended. In the case of installation of a non-alternative (main) system, the pitch is reduced and amounts to 100-300 mm. If the laying step is exceeded, a “thermal zebra” effect appears, and the difference in the temperature of the floor surface is felt by the foot.

• installing thermostats will avoid overheating and reduce the cost of operating the system.

Water heated floor in the apartment from central heating

Important. Installing a heated floor system in an apartment is associated with a number of difficulties. In particular, it is necessary to submit the project to the housing office or the society of co-owners, as well as the district heating network. After approval of the project, obtain a conclusion on the possibility of installing the system. Typically, installation is permitted only in new houses where there is a separate riser for pumping out hot water (used in case of a breakthrough).

Installation of heated floors in the bathroom is allowed by connecting through the outlet to the coil from the heated towel rail. A permit is not required to heat a small area.

In addition to the installation diagram of the components, the type (type) of the underfloor heating system is selected at the design stage.

1. Concrete system. Involves filling pipes with concrete (arrangement of screed);
2. Laying system. Involves the use of wood or polystyrene flooring. In this case, there are no “wet” processes and the speed of work increases.

Stage 2 - components for heated floors

A water-heated floor is a complex system of pipes containing a coolant. Therefore, we list what is needed to install a heated floor (system components).

Boiler for warm water floor

The best and most common option in a private house (apartment) is to connect to gas boiler. If the apartment does not individual heating, you can connect to the central heating main, but the autonomy of the project is lost.

It is also possible to use electric water floors. Their peculiarity is that the heating cable is laid inside the pipe, which guarantees uniform heating of the coolant (water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol) along the entire length of the circuit. The undoubted advantage is the possibility of installation in apartment buildings (since they are not connected to the heating main, which means there is no risk of damage to the mounting unit). But there is also a significant drawback - the high cost of electricity, which is necessary to ensure the functioning (heating) of the system.

The design power of the boiler should be 15-20% higher than the total power of all floors in the room.

Circulation pump for heated floors

Necessary to ensure the movement of coolant in the system. The pump built into the boiler will not cope with the load if the area of ​​the house exceeds 100 square meters.

Pipes for warm water floors

• copper pipes according to experts are considered ideal option- durable, characterized by high heat transfer, but their cost will significantly increase the installation budget;

• metal-plastic pipes leading in terms of price/quality ratio. Their composition eliminates the occurrence of corrosion and accumulation, which leaves the diameter of the pipe flow section unchanged. Besides, metal-plastic pipes They are light in weight, bend easily and have a high temperature limit.

• polypropylene pipes They are attracted by the low price, but there is a high probability of buying a low-quality product.

• PEX pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are reliable, but require rigid fastening, because when heated, they straighten. Users recommend reducing the mounting step of the holders when using PEX pipes by 2-3 times.

The optimal cross-section is 16-20 mm. Pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. 5-6 m.p. (with a step of 200 mm).

Note. According to reviews, users advise using the products only famous brands(Uponor, Rehau).

Insulation for warm water floors

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

• foil polyethylene (with a minimum design thickness of the heated floor);

• expanded polystyrene. Users recommend using ready-made thermal insulation mats having projections for laying pipes with a pitch of 50x50 mm;

• mineral wool. Users speak poorly of the cotton wool in the case of the device concrete system due to the ability of mineral wool to absorb some of the moisture from the solution.

Advice. Thermal insulation layer (thickness of insulation for a heated floor) above the basement, in ground floor, on the ground floor in a private house, should be thicker. In addition, the higher the expected coolant temperature, the thicker the thermal insulation layer needs to be made.

Heat consumption meter

Installing a heat meter in an apartment is relevant when obtaining permission to install a water-heated floor in an apartment building.

Manifold cabinet

Installed for installation of adjusting elements and joining of circuit pipes with the heat supply main.

Reinforcing mesh for heated floors

Users have different opinions regarding the installation of reinforced stacks. In general, the reinforcement mesh will further strengthen concrete screed after laying the pipe system.

Components for the screed device

• concrete (cement, sand, water);
• damper tape 100-150 mm wide;
• fasteners for fixing pipes.

Stage 3 - installation of a warm water floor with your own hands

1. Installation of the manifold cabinet

Installation of the system begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet, mandatory elements which are (manifold unit): manifold, pump, air vent valve and drain outlet. The dimensions of the collector depend on its configuration. It is recommended to install the collector at an equal distance from all circuits. If it is impossible to follow this recommendation, near the longest of the contours.

Important. When installing the collector, free space is provided for bending pipes. In this case, it is not allowed to install pipes from above, only from below. This will ensure normal coolant movement. Installing a shut-off valve between the piping system and the collector will simplify maintenance of the system if necessary (prevention, draining, repair).

2. Preparing the base for heated floors

The surface is cleared of debris, differences in floor heights (slopes, elevations) are eliminated.

Thermal insulation material is laid on the prepared surface, reducing heat loss through the floor. Next, a waterproofing film is covered. Laying a damper tape eliminates the thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

Floors under water-heated floors must be leveled to ensure equal screed thickness (the key to uniform heat distribution over the surface)

3. Laying pipes for heated floors

Installation of water heated floor pipes can be performed using several methods (layout diagrams):

Snail

The pipes are laid around the perimeter of the room, tapering towards the center. It is necessary to lay pipes through a row to ensure the reverse flow of the coolant and more uniform heat transfer.

The method is used when, due to the complex configuration of the room, it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe system, as well as in rooms with an area of ​​more than 40 square meters.

Snake (loop)

In this case, the pipe from the heater runs along outer wall, then returns back in waves. The scheme is suitable for small spaces.

Meander (double snake or combined pattern)

The loops of the snake are arranged in parallel and allow you to organize the movement of warm and cooled coolant through the pipes. This method is good because it allows you to compensate for the cooling of the pipes.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Advice. Craftsmen advise starting installation from the outer or colder walls of the room.

To perform the layout correctly, it is recommended that a beginner first apply markings to the floor surface. At the time of installation of heated floors in subsequent rooms, installation will be done “by eye”. For installation, only solid pipes or reliable connections are used.

Pipe laying begins by connecting one end to the supply manifold.

You can organize insulation near external walls by changing the order of the pipes, as shown in the diagram.

After laying the pipe on the designated contour, it is fixed with a clamp. Alternatively, you can use dowels and tie the pipe to them using copper wire or lay it on the floor reinforcing mesh and tie the pipe to it to ensure the possibility of thermal expansion of the materials.

The work is simplified by a ribbed polystyrene substrate under a heated water floor, the use of which simultaneously allows for thermal insulation and laying pipes in even rows.

4. Connecting the underfloor heating manifold

After laying the circuit, the free end of the pipe is connected to the return manifold.

5. Pressure testing of water heated floors

Pressure testing of pipes (hydraulic testing), this is the name given to the procedure for checking the quality of installation, because at this stage it is possible to make adjustments to the water heated floor heating system.

Pressure testing involves introducing water into the system under high pressure. The pressure recommended for testing exceeds the calculated operating pressure by 1.5-2 times (at least 0.6 MPa). In the first half hour of pressure testing, it is permissible to reduce the pressure by no more than 10%, in the next 2 - 15% of the initial value. The water temperature remains unchanged. The verification time is a day or more. If no violations are detected and the floor warms up evenly, you can continue work.

6. Screed for heated water floors

For screed can be used:

• any ready mix, a mandatory characteristic of which is the ability to conduct heat well;

• classic concrete (with cement grade of at least M 300) with the addition of a plasticizer (3-5%).

The height of the screed varies in the range of 3-7 mm. The solution is poured when the system is full (filled with coolant) with the pressure specified during pressure testing. The complete hardening time of concrete is 28 days. For the mixture, the hardening time is determined by the manufacturer.

Note. On the surface of a large area (more than 40 square meters), expansion joints are provided.

Stage 4 - first launch of water-heated floor

After the floor screed has completely hardened (dried), the system is ready to start. It will reach the specified parameters within 2-3 days.

Stage 5 - finishing of the heated floor

The fully finished heated floor is covered finishing material. Today, the most popular flooring remains tile and laminate.

Water-based heated flooring under laminate has become widespread. However, the installation of laminate in this case is carried out with some nuances:

• The quality of the laminate must be confirmed by a certificate. After all, when it is heated, harmful substances will be released into the room. Typically, laminate flooring is labeled “Warm wasser”;

• the heat insulator does not fit under the laminate;

• Ventilation of the laminate floor is required. To do this, a gap of 10-15 mm thick is left around the perimeter, which is then covered with a plinth;

• Before laying, the laminate is placed in the room to set the floor temperature. In this case, packages with lamellas should be placed on the floor, and not stacked in one high stack.

As you can see, using laminate as a floor covering does not create any additional difficulties, but experts advise using a water-heated floor under the tiles. This is due to the fact that the laminate has low thermal conductivity (the thicker the lamella, the lower this indicator), and it also contains connectors whose evaporation does not in the best possible way may affect the health of the residents of the house.

How to make a water heated floor with your own hands - video

Water heated floors will last for a long time if you follow the recommendations for their use, which contain user reviews. The main requirements are as follows:

• a gradual increase in temperature is necessary. You cannot run the system at “maximum” after a period of inactivity (until the floor has completely cooled). Users recommend a stepwise increase - by 4-5 °C per day;

• the temperature of the incoming coolant should not exceed 45 °C;

• It is not recommended to turn the system on/off frequently. This will not result in additional savings;

• you need to ensure optimal humidity in the room. A balanced microclimate will have a beneficial effect on human health.

Conclusion

In addition to installing a warm water floor system inside the house, you can installation work s on the street, for example, to install a snow melting and anti-icing system (for heating the pedestrian path, entrance area, porch, stairs, parking lot, etc.).

In recent years, heated floors have been in unprecedented demand. This increase in demand for technology is due not only to the peculiarities of the domestic climate (it’s cold in our country for almost half the year), but also due to the unsatisfactory performance of public utilities (often, the heat from the batteries is simply not enough for a comfortable stay).

A durable and reliable, efficient and inexpensive heating system in the form of a heated floor will help to heat any room, while eliminating the need for additional installation individual elements and some repair work.

Warm floor and its connection to heating

Today, there are extremely many options for underfloor heating systems, but the most popular are those that operate on a liquid coolant (most often water). At the same time, such warm floors are “powered” by heating or a specially created autonomous circuit.

Of course, due to some features (availability and simplicity, in particular), the most often used option is when the heated floor is connected to a centralized heating system.

Warm floors in the apartment from central heating allow you to achieve the most high performance and heat transfer efficiency, reducing associated costs by almost an order of magnitude. In addition, if you approach the organization of the process wisely, then all preparatory and installation work can be completed in the shortest possible time.

What you need to know before starting work

Before organizing a warm water floor from central heating, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

Before starting any installation work, you should definitely take into account the fact that water heated floors from central heating create an additional load on the entire system. Naturally, heat loss increases, and therefore it is simply impossible to do without coordination with specialized authorities.

And utility services can easily force the new owner to install a special heat consumption meter.

Installation of a warm water floor: options and main stages

Instructions for heated floors connected to a central heating system imply laying all pipes in several basic ways:

• Spiral (bifilar);
• Spiral with offset center;
• Meander (snake);
• Double zigzag styling.

It should be noted that every existing option has its positive and negative sides– the choice should be based only on your own preferences, as well as on the basis of some other factors. In particular, in those places where there are doorways, window openings and walls in the room, the coolant must have a higher temperature.

Advice. If it is difficult to decide on the layout of the underfloor heating pipeline, then it is best to choose a “snake”.
This is a universal option, thanks to which you can ensure the most optimal heat transfer, eliminating breakdowns and other troubles.

The process of organizing work modern system heating consists of several stages that have design features that should be given considerable attention:

1. Preparation. With your own hands, you must clean the base on which the pipes will be laid in the future,
   Also, you should divide the entire area of ​​​​the room into functional areas – small areas, which will further help improve the efficiency of the process and reduce time costs.

At the preparation stage, installation is also carried out thermal insulation materials. Due to this layer of insulation, it is possible to reduce heat loss and eliminate unnecessary financial costs;

Advice. When laying thermal insulation, it is necessary to glue the edges of the materials using a special welt tape. Thus, the shifting of materials during their installation is eliminated, and the work is simplified.

Advice. Sand concrete M-300 can be used as a solution.
Such concrete has the most optimal combination of price and quality, and its thermal conductivity and performance characteristics make it possible to obtain a more efficient and productive heating system.

1. Flooring installation. Before installation, it is important to wait at least a couple of days - during this time the concrete will fully acquire its qualities and “mature”.
   At the same time, the choice of material for flooring can be very diverse (and this can be seen in many photos and videos of apartments with heated floors), for example, parquet, linoleum, laminate;
2. First launch and testing of the installed heated floor. It is best if representatives of utility services are present at the launch - if any malfunctions occur, you can quickly shut off the coolant supply to the apartment.

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