Do-it-yourself technology for painting furniture facades made of MDF and wood. Is it possible to paint paper-coated MDF wall panels? Is it possible to paint MDF panels?

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Technology MDF manufacturing came to our country from America thirty years after the beginning industrial production material overseas. For external works slabs are not used for several reasons.

  1. Expensive. There are many varieties of lumber that have higher performance at lower cost.
  2. Insufficient physical strength. In terms of resistance to dynamic and static loads, the slab does not meet the requirements of developers. It is easy to damage, but difficult to replace.
  3. Susceptibility to precipitation and temperature climatic conditions. There are options for moisture-resistant boards, but they are not suitable for cladding external wall surfaces.

MDF board is used for making furniture and covering interior wall surfaces. It is these cases that we will talk about. Painting of MDF facades will only be considered for enclosed spaces. Let us separately focus on painting the facades of MDF furniture.

There is no need to list specific brands, and it is impossible to do so. We will only talk about the varieties and brief characteristics paints, taking into account the method of their manufacture. The specific type must be selected taking into account the operating conditions of the MDF board, design preferences and financial capabilities. The range in price and quality is quite wide, there is plenty to choose from.

Type of paintsBrief performance indicators
On water based The most popular for painting large surfaces, they have satisfactory performance characteristics and are completely safe for residents. They can be white or colored, for interior and exterior work.
Acrylic-siliconeCombines the advantages of acrylic and silicone paints, an environmentally friendly product. Inhibits the proliferation of microflora and mosses, and has high levels of resistance to mechanical stress.
SiliconeThey repel water and are not afraid of moisture and high temperatures. Surfaces are easily cleaned from dust and dirt. Due to their high elasticity, they can easily compensate for thermal expansion of MDF boards.
Polyvinyl acetateSome of the cheapest, recommended for use indoors with minimal risk of damage. During use, you should strictly follow the manufacturers' recommendations, otherwise peeling will occur.
OilyTraditional dyes, in addition to giving a beautiful appearance to surfaces, effectively protect them from moisture penetration. To increase adhesion, it is recommended to use primers.
AlkydThey have a perfectly smooth surface and are made on the basis of alkyd enamels. Plastic, resistant to abrasion. Disadvantage: they fade quickly when exposed to direct sunlight.

Before buying paint, calculate the surface area and purchase materials with a reserve. Consumption is indicated by the manufacturer. If it is recommended to coat the surface with a primer before painting, do not simplify the work. Insufficient adhesion of paint to the MDF board causes peeling. As a result, there is a need for expensive and time-consuming repairs.

Prices for different types of construction paints for wood

Construction paint for wood

Types of varnishes for MDF

The technology of coating surfaces with varnish is much more complicated than working with paints, but the effect justifies all the effort. When choosing a specific varnish, you need to take into account not only its properties and price, but also the location of application and operating conditions. To cover MDF boards you can use the following types varnishes

Varnish typeComposition and brief characteristics
AlcoholMade from ethyl alcohol and artificial resins. In terms of price, they belong to the low category; drying time, depending on the conditions and thickness of the layer, is 20–30 minutes.
Alkyd-ureaTwo-component compositions are characterized by increased strength. They consist of urea and alkyd resins; a hardener must be added before use. They are characterized by increased strength and excellent shine.
EpoxyTwo-component, increased impact resistance, can have prolonged contact with water. Used to cover MDF tables.
PolyesterResistant to aggressive chemical compounds, withstands elevated temperatures well. Multicomponent varnishes on polyester resin.
NitrocelluloseThe composition contains resins, plasticizers and solvents. They have high water resistance, are polished, and have average mechanical strength.
Acrylic-urethaneThey are diluted with water, are safe for health, and have increased adhesion to surfaces. They can long time be in conditions of elevated temperatures and humidity.
PolyurethaneThey are produced in one-, two- and three-component versions. Full hardening time up to two weeks, characterized by increased wear resistance, have high coefficient adhesion to all lumber.
AcrylicOdorless, non-toxic, diluted with water. Prolonged contact with food is allowed. In terms of performance characteristics they have average indicators.

This information will help when choosing a brand of varnish; consider as many individual factors as possible. Keep in mind that the appearance and service life of MDF facades largely depend on the quality of the composition.

Prices for various types of construction wood varnishes

Construction varnishes for wood

Technology for painting furniture facades made of MDF

Quite complex work that requires care, skill and patience. They are made in several stages, each of which significantly affects the final quality. It is much faster and better to paint facades with a spray gun; if you don’t have one, use high-quality brushes with soft, durable bristles.

The temperature in the room should be at least +20°C, if there are a lot of individual elements of the MDF facade, then think about the places for drying them: racks, supports, etc. In most cases, after painting the slabs, it is recommended to varnish them, it protects the surfaces from damage, hides minor flaws, significantly improves designer look. Varnishing is a complex process that requires special tools and equipment. We will tell you how MDF boards are varnished below, but for now we will focus on painting.

We have already told you what criteria to use to choose paint. For furniture facades we can only add that the paint color should take into account the purpose of the furniture and the intensity of its use.

Step 1. Surface preparation. For furniture facades, in addition to cleaning from dust and degreasing surfaces, it is imperative to sand them with sandpaper No. 150–180.

Working manually is long and difficult, and even achieving required quality almost unreal. We recommend using a professional electric reciprocating surface grinder or cylindrical grinding unit.

The edges are sanded with special four-sided sponges. It is advisable to work in a respirator. When grinding, do not stop the tool in one place; it should always be in motion. One trace must overlap the next by at least a third of the width. There is no need to press the sanding paper too hard if there are any residues left on the surface. problem areas, then it’s better to go over the entire area again, rather than make a recess in one place.

Practical advice. Any grinding is accompanied by a large amount of fine dust. Take all measures to ensure that it does not fall into adjacent rooms.

Step 2. Clean surfaces thoroughly to remove dust. Simple brushes are not enough; you definitely need a powerful vacuum cleaner or compressor. Check the condition of the parts; if there are sharp edges, remove them. The IMF does not have much strength; sharp corners will certainly crumble.

Step 3. Prime the surfaces. Experienced craftsmen recommend using two types of primer, twice each. You can prime with one primer without stopping for drying; apply the first layer with horizontal movements of the spray gun, and the next immediately with vertical movements. Regulate the amount of primer; there should be no puddles on the surface. The first primer is used to prevent further absorption of materials, and the second to improve the adhesion coefficient between them. The second one is applied only after the first primer has completely dried. Primer consumption per one square meter 80–100 grams.

Practical advice. It is very difficult for novice craftsmen to determine consumption by eye. To gain this skill, we recommend taking a small piece of MDF and weighing it on an accurate scale. Coat with primer and immediately re-weigh. Next, the area of ​​the sample is calculated and the increase in weight is determined. Using basic mathematical calculations, the primer consumption is determined. Not enough - add more. Now remember what the MDF surface looks like, covered with the optimal layer, and in the future prime with the same amount.

We strongly recommend working only with a pneumatic sprayer; using a brush will never achieve “factory” quality. A professional will always notice traces of lint. Moreover, they fall on furniture Sun rays from different angles, and such lighting enhances all the shortcomings of facial coverings. Immediately prime the ends of the structures.

If you need to paint the back side of the slab, start work only after the front side has dried. The drying time is indicated by the manufacturer, but adjustments must be made taking into account the actual microclimate in the room.

Step 4. Start sanding the soil using special sponges. If you don’t have them, take dishwashing sponges, with reverse side they have adhesive tape attached. This special material, used for fine grinding, not only levels out the coating, but also leaves micro-scratches on the surface that improve the adhesion of the next coating. Movements are arbitrary in different directions. Circular movements of the sponge are not recommended, only back and forth.

Step 5. Blow or vacuum any dust that may form on the surface. Working with a spray gun is very convenient for another reason - you can shut off the paint supply and use it to clean surfaces from dust like a compressor.

Step 6. Proceed with applying the second type of primer. She mainly white, improves the performance of the following coatings. It also needs to be primed twice followed by sanding. Blow the dust off the MDF again. The algorithm of actions is no different from the technology described above.

Step 7 The second layer of primer must be carefully sanded using electric tools using fine sandpaper. Don't rush, big flaws will already become noticeable. finished product. If you have no experience working with such machines, we strongly advise you to practice on unnecessary pieces of MDF. You will learn how hard to press the sanding paper to the surface, how quickly to move it, what thickness of MDF can be removed in one pass, etc.

Step 8 Prepare the paint. The preparation technology is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

Follow all recommendations. We have already mentioned that to work with a spray gun, the consistency must be more liquid. Immediately paint twice in transverse directions. You should already have practical experience in determining the quality of the coating and the amount of paint. Paint consumption ranges from 60–180 g.

After the coating has dried, you can begin varnishing the surfaces. For furniture interiors this is a mandatory step. The varnish not only serves as additional and reliable protection, but also significantly improves the appearance of MDF products.

Coating MDF boards with varnish

We will describe how this is done below. But for quality, four main conditions must be met:

  • do not use cheap varnishes;
  • strictly adhere to technology;
  • have necessary tools and equipment;
  • have experience in performing complex painting work.

You will gain experience in performing such work and the ability to use tools while priming and painting products; working with varnish will be much easier. You can determine the amount of varnish on the surface by eye, and the spray gun will “automatically” move in in the right directions and at optimal speed.

Step 1. According to the instructions, prepare the varnish, consumption approximately 100–150 g per square meter.

Start coating with varnish from the ends of the MDF; due to this technology, it is possible to minimize the number of areas with uneven thickness. A little bit of varnish on the front surface does not pose a threat to the final quality.

After the first layer has dried, sand it with the finest abrasive. Professionals recommend using abrasive fiber No. 1200 according to the international classification. It can be purchased in specialized stores.

Step 2. Remove dust from the surface. Examine surfaces from different angles in a well-lit room. Everything is fine - cover the surface with a second layer of varnish. By the way, it is recommended to coat some facades with varnish up to 0.5 mm thick, and for this you will have to increase the number of layers to five or more. On industrial enterprises another technology, where the varnish is immediately poured onto the surface of the required thickness, then the sheets are fed on a conveyor to drying chambers. This technology cannot be used at home.

Step 3. The quality is satisfactory - proceed to fine grinding and polishing of the finishing layer. For fine sanding, use Velvet No. 1500, 2000 and 3000. Gently but thoroughly work the surface with each number, periodically removing dust.

Practical advice. The quality of grinding will improve significantly if the surfaces are slightly moistened with water. The varnish will not overheat; during work, microcracks will not form on the surface from the effects of abrasive materials. Microcracks refract light rays, the surface becomes matte.

Go over the entire surface with each number at least three to four times. The pressing force is slightly less than when grinding the primer. Sanding takes a lot of time. If you are tired, it is better to postpone the work to the next day rather than stop completely.

Step 4. Polishing. For polishing you need a special polishing paste and a perfectly smooth hard circle. There are many pastes, choosing is not a problem. Study the recommendations and compare them with your individual conditions. Take your time, constantly check the condition of the surfaces using light.

If you have a fairly large amount of work, we recommend purchasing special electric polishing machines. They not only speed up and make work easier, but also significantly improve quality. Apply the polishing paste to the disk in a layer of approximately 1–2 mm, do not level it; during operation, the excess paste will be removed from under the disk and will remain on the surface of the MDF. Then, as needed, the rotating disk itself grabs required quantity material.

As the last step, you can use rubbing surfaces with compounds that provide a mirror shine.

Prices for the range of polishing machines

Polishing machine

Painting facades of outbuildings made of MDF

We mentioned that this material is not recommended for external cladding. But there are cases of its use for temporary finishing of facade walls of small old country outbuildings. This is what those owners do financial condition who are unable to purchase new materials, they use various used building materials, including MDF panels, to cover the facades of outbuildings.

In order to increase the service life of structures, we recommend painting the external surfaces. Don’t skip the primer; the price of the material is affordable for all developers, it takes little time to carry out the work, but the effect is obvious. Choose the type of primer based on the type of paint. On the packaging, the manufacturer indicates which primer should be used. The primer is done twice, the brush or roller should move in perpendicular directions. If for some reason this cannot be achieved, then prime each layer at least at an angle. In addition to increasing adhesion, primer reduces the consumption of expensive paints and prevents stains from appearing from the base. You can paint with brushes of various sizes and rollers. But you can’t do it with rollers alone; the joints need to be carefully painted with brushes.

Step 1. Measure the area of ​​the surface to be painted. Buy paint taking into account the area and consumption, do not buy paint “back to back”, always have a supply of material. It will be easier for you to work, and the surplus will always be useful for cosmetic repairs.

Step 2. Thoroughly clean the MDF surface from dust, preferably using a vacuum cleaner. Dust particles may be noticeable on the surface of the paint, and it is impossible to remove them later. You will have to completely repaint the slab.

Step 3. Prepare your paint and tools. If the material has been stored in a warehouse for a long time, the composition should be thoroughly mixed before use. When painting a surface with a spray gun, the paint will have to be diluted slightly with a solvent. Which one to choose is written on the packaging. To guarantee, you can first pour a small amount of paint into the solvent. If the paint has curled, the solvent is unsuitable.

Step 4. Dip a roller or brush into the paint and begin painting the surfaces.

Paint can be applied with a brush or rollers

Practical advice. Move the brush from top to bottom, so you will see streaks of excess paint and eliminate them in a timely manner. If you paint the other way around, you will have to constantly return to the previously painted area to eliminate drips. You may not notice them or forget to return - a problem will arise. If the streaks dry out, removal will take a long time. In some cases, they will have to be cut off with a blade and the coating surface adjusted.

Step 5. Use a brush to paint the joints, making sure there are no lint marks left. In implementation you can find low-quality paint brushes, their pile holds weakly. To prevent it from being left on the surface, rub the brush with great force on any clean surface before use. Insufficiently secured hairs will come out and will not create problems during dyeing.

Step 6. Allow the first layer to dry, the time depends on the characteristics of the paint. Professional painters do not recommend drying with the windows open - dust gets into the room and sticks to the surface of the paint.

Step 7 If the quality of one layer is unsatisfactory, apply a second one. The technology is the same.

While painting surfaces, you can draw various patterns and ornaments. To do this, first draw contour lines with a pencil. Each color must first be covered with masking tape.

Prices for paint sprayers

Spray gun

How to remove old paintwork

Removing paintwork is not so easy; a lot depends on its composition and your capabilities. Let's look at three ways to clean MDF surfaces.

  1. Mechanical. Removal of coatings is carried out with a metal brush or spatula. The work is very difficult and not always effective. In this way, only very old peeling coatings can be removed, and not from the entire surface. It is much easier to use various electric grinders with coarse abrasive material. We warn you that there will be a lot of dust, take measures to prevent it from getting into adjacent rooms. To protect your respiratory system, you need to use respirators or masks. The sandpaper will clog quickly and you will have to change it frequently.

  2. Thermal. The paint layer is heated with a construction hair dryer (an ordinary one is not suitable!), the coating softens and is much easier to remove with a spatula. The disadvantage is that not everyone has a hair dryer, and buying one for small-scale work is not economically profitable.

  3. Chemical. Various solvents are sold in specialized stores. The surfaces are moistened with it and left for several hours. Practical advice. To enhance the effect chemical preparation After soaking, it is recommended to cover the area to be treated with plastic wrap and seal the edges with tape. Further soft coverings removed with a spatula. You only need to work outside, some compounds are very aggressive. Respiratory protection is mandatory. If necessary, the procedure is repeated several times.

Regardless of the method of removing old coatings, before painting again, the MDF surface must be sanded; traces will always remain from a brush or spatula. In addition, not all areas of the coating can be removed manually.

Prices for different types of paint removers

Paint remover

To paint MDF wall paneling with rollers, buy them with fine pile. Such rollers leave fewer marks, the paint goes on more evenly and has time to level out during drying.

The longer the paint dries, the more defects it can hide on its own. Quick-drying materials do not provide such an advantage; the surface dries out quickly and is poorly leveled.

Absolutely all MDF boards emit chemical compounds into the air. The notorious “environmental friendliness” depends only on their quantity. In different countries, sanitary control authorities set their own acceptable standards. What is considered harmful by some is considered environmentally friendly by others and is allowed for use. The amount of harmful compounds released can be minimized by deep impregnation. This is another reason not to abandon this operation when painting MDF.

If on the surface problem areas discovered after the completion of the work, you can hide them with invoices decorative elements. Now on sale big choice drawings on self-adhesive plastic film. With them you will not only hide your defect, but will give the surfaces a beautiful, exclusive look.

The pile on MDF boards does not rise; only natural wood has this drawback. When choosing paints and varnishes, pay attention to this feature. By the way, coatings that do not raise the pile during drying are much more expensive than ordinary ones; do not overpay for unnecessary properties.

Video – Technology of painting wooden houses

MDF panels are a building material intended for finishing premises, cladding the facades of cabinet furniture or walls; it is made from wood chips of low or medium thickness. These parts are considered an environmentally friendly finishing element, since synthetic materials are not used in their production. adhesive compositions, and natural wood resin is used, which reliably fixes all layers of the product and forms a single whole. MDF panels have medium and low density, depending on the number of layers and composition of the wood. Over time, during the operation of these parts, their surface may become scratched, the coating loses its gloss or has defects, as a result, the integrity of the entire panel is compromised, and the appearance of the entire finish becomes unsightly. Any owner in this case is faced with the question: how to update the facade of the panels without completely changing them?

MDF panels on the wall

This article discusses the possibility of painting products such as MDF wall panels, whether it is possible to paint MDF, as well as the process of carrying out such work at home.

There are a number of reasons why painting MDF panels may be necessary, including:

  1. Mechanical damage to the surface as a result of impact with a sharp object or other material. The top layer of the MDF panel consists of laminated or plain paper with paint applied to it; when exposed to a hard object, the film breaks, which exposes the core of the entire product;
  2. Paint fading, loss of color brightness. This deformation results from the impact ultraviolet rays and atmospheric air, which contains a small amount of moisture. Over time, the coating becomes matte, loses its shine and original appearance;
  3. Temperature changes also negatively affect external condition surface of MDF panels, since the internal structure consists of wood, which absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and at the same time swells over the entire area. When the temperature rises, MDF dries out and may crack; moreover, the glue contained in the panel loses its ability due to moisture, which leads to peeling of paper, lamination and shavings.

MDF and water

These causes of deformation lead to an unsightly appearance of the entire surface and disrupt the overall design of the wall. If these defects occur, you can paint MDF panels after having completed a number of preparatory procedures, but you should understand that painting parts with your own hands at home brings a result that differs from processing with paints in production.

Painting process for MDF panels

Before answering the question of how to paint MDF panels, you need to understand the composition of this product. An MDF board, wall or facade, consists of several layers of compressed paper and sawdust, laminated with a transparent or colored film on the front side. Most often, it is upper layer is subject to damage and wear, so when planning to update MDF you need to prepare specified types coatings.

In order to prepare MDF panels for painting at home, you will need:

  1. Sandpaper for preparing the surface and removing gloss or varnish;
  2. Solvent for degreasing the surface from glue and liquid residues;
  3. Dry rags or other lint-free cloth.

These materials are necessary for pre-treatment of MDF panels for painting and sealing cracks and scratches on the laminate.

Priming MDF panels

All work must be carried out in accordance with the action algorithm. The first step is to sand the panel. sanding paper with a fine fraction, this can be done manually or using a pneumatic tool. It is important to follow the varnish removal technology, to prevent overheating of the surface or the formation of large marks on the laminate. The wood-fiber surface is under the decorative film, so when sanding you need to carefully monitor the thickness of the top layer so as not to erase it completely. After this procedure, the coating will no longer shine and will become rough and slightly scratchy.

Next, you need to clean all cracks and chips from dirt and dust, and also clean their edges. All irregularities, if necessary, are smoothed over with a special putty, which forms a single whole with the base of the panel; it also needs to be leveled with sandpaper.

After the surface has been processed and leveled, it must be wiped with a dry cloth and degreased with a chemical solvent, which will displace and evaporate all water and wash away dust and dirt.

The next step is to prime the top coat with a special paint; it has a grainy texture and can be applied using compressed air or a simple brush. It can be used to cover the surface in several layers, with intermediate sanding, until the required smoothness is achieved.

Next, the base paint is prepared, tinted and thoroughly mixed so that all the elements are mixed together. You can paint MDF panels manually or with a special paint air gun, but this will require compressor unit and a moisture-water separator. The composition is applied with smooth movements in two layers: the first - across the main direction, the second - along the entire length of the part. Thus, the formation of smudges and paint sagging is prevented.

The final step will be to treat the top paper-wood layer of the panel with transparent varnish. This procedure is not necessary, but after it is carried out, the surface of the MDF product becomes glossy, its top layer seems renewed, and the appearance of the entire structure is restored.

For your information. It is important to observe the drying intervals for elements between layers of primer, paint and varnish, since otherwise they will curl and crack, and you will have to do all the work again.

Using a spray gun

How to paint and renew MDF panels

For MDF panels, you can use alkyd or acrylic enamel, but when choosing a paint, you should take into account the type of primer, operating conditions of the panels, and the composition of the top layer. If it is laminated paper with a synthetic, weakly absorbent film, then it would be advisable to use acrylic or water-dispersion enamel. These materials are environmentally friendly and are perfect for interior painting indoors, while the surface of the panel will be renewed and also additionally protected from the moisture of an aggressive external environment.

Thus, if the entire painting technology is followed, the question of whether it is possible to paint MDF panels becomes completely solvable at home.

Video

Is it possible to paint MDF panels or facades? Such a process is possible. But he demands compliance certain conditions resulting from the choice of materials, preparatory work, main stages and finishing touches. Painting MDF panels is a task that anyone can do. The only thing that is important to consider is that not all paints are suitable for this purpose, and those that are suitable are not cheap.

Pros and cons of painting MDF

MDF is painted most often for two reasons:

  • the need to protect the material from negative environmental factors;
  • decorative purpose - you want to change the color of the MDF board or improve its appearance.

Regardless of the reason for painting, it has a number of advantages:

  • The painted element becomes resistant to high temperatures. This means that when using an MDF panel in the kitchen, you can place hot dishes on it.
  • The presence of special additives in the paint allows you to obtain facades original design: mother of pearl, pearl, metallic.
  • As a rule, paints intended for MDF do not contain harmful chemicals. This is a big plus, especially if you plan to dye the material at home.
  • And finally, painting products can significantly extend their service life.

Of course, painting MDF is not without its drawbacks, of which the following can be highlighted:

  • high price compared to film coating;
  • possibility of color fading under direct exposure to sunlight.

What materials should I use?

Since MDF is a material that consists of wood fiber, it can be painted and ordinary paints on wood. However, to get a truly high-quality result and uniform coloring, you will need special compounds, among which:

  • polyurethane-based primer;
  • paint (also polyurethane);
  • varnish for MDF (if necessary).

Polyurethane enamel does not contain volatile components and can be used for both interior and exterior use.

Dyeing technology

Process MDF painting colored polyurethane enamels includes several stages:

  • grinding;
  • primer;
  • direct painting;
  • drying.

Grinding

For good adhesion of the paint and varnish coating, it is necessary to sand the products being processed, be it facades or wall panels. For this we use:

  • dry sandpaper;
  • Scotch Brite - a soft, fine-grained abrasive;
  • Underground grinding machines.

If the product is small, then sandpaper on a foam rubber base with a gradation of P220-P280 is used.
For flat surfaces 700 series sanding mats with fine-grained abrasive are used. The same materials will help remove excess primer and fill in marks before painting.

The surface directly on which the paint will be applied is cleaned. After cleaning, the surface must be degreased with anti-silicone.

Putty

MDF is prepared carefully for painting; sanding alone will not get rid of it. If there are visible flaws (cracks, dents), then the surface in these areas must be puttied, thereby leveling the surface.

Best suited for puttying acrylic putty for wood, it should be applied and smoothed with special rubber spatula.

Primer

For flat products it is better to use universal white polyurethane primer LBR30. The content of a large amount of resin in it gives a minimal tendency to shrinkage. Suitable for matte and glossy finishes. For the latter, where every defect is visible on the surface, the preparation requirements are an order of magnitude higher. Best result gives the use of polyester primers.

Before painting the panels, they must be thoroughly prepared. First make a working mixture. To do this you need to take:

  • primer LBR 30 – 100 parts by weight;
  • hardener LNB 77 – 40 parts by weight;
  • thinner LZC 1051 – 10 parts by weight.

All these components must be mixed together and the first layer of primer must be applied to the surface to be painted using a gun with top tank. Nozzle diameter 1.8 mm, air pressure 2-3 atmospheres. The material consumption should be 120 g per 1 m2. The optimal thickness of the resulting film is 120 microns. To completely complete the shrinkage process, the soil should be dried for 12 hours.

Before painting the product, it will need to be treated with abrasive again. For gloss, an emery tool with a finer grit is additionally used. After this, the surface will be prepared, and paint for MDF panels can be applied.

In the video: priming and sanding MDF.

Painting

You can paint wall panels with a brush, roller or spray gun. The room temperature should be about +20°C, air humidity - within 50-80%. Can be painted with matte or glossy enamel. But first you need to prepare working compositions. For matte enamel take:

  • 100 parts by weight of enamel;
  • 50 parts by weight of hardener;
  • 30 parts by weight of thinner.

For glossy enamel, 70 parts of hardener are taken. The remaining components are in the same quantities. For gloss you should always use a slow thinner that will ensure good flow.

Painting MDF panels should be done in a relatively spacious room, if this internal structures(e.g. facades or wall elements). House with outside should be finished in the warm season. The enamel consumption should be approximately 150g/m2. Fiberboard medium density or MDF dries completely in 24 hours.

To obtain a glossy finish, polishing should be done after 3 days. By this time, all polymerization processes will be completed. Using special additives on the surface of the product, you can create mother-of-pearl, metallic effects, and obtain corrugated waves.

Wet

MDF panels can be painted with alkyd or polyurethane enamel, as well as powder mixtures. Wet technology involves the use of a sprayer with appropriate pressure. If the paint is applied in two layers, intermediate sanding is necessary. The thickness of the layers is no more than 120 microns.

Painting surfaces must be free of small debris, dust, and insects. If they get in, they should be removed in a timely manner using a tool such as tweezers. Smudges formed on the painted surface after drying are removed with a stationery knife or fine-grained sandpaper.

Powder

Is it possible to paint MDF in another way? Yes, there are special powder mixtures that are applied to work surface sprayer. After this, the product is subjected to high temperatures until the paint completely melts. This method provides for obtaining an almost perfectly smooth surface.

Powder coating technology involves spraying dry microscopic particles onto the surface.

Drying

You can paint MDF panels using any method. Drying completes any finishing process. It is carried out subject to certain conditions:

  • ambient air temperature no more than 50°C;
  • relative humidity less than 80%.

The duration of the final stage depends on environmental conditions. Can range from 5 hours to a day. Painted MDF board will dry faster at lower temperatures and air humidity.

Regardless of what you can use to paint wall panels, following the steps and conditions of the technological process will allow you to get a rich color, a smooth surface, and will save time and costs. It is better to automate all the work using special paint and varnish equipment.

How to paint MDF correctly (2 videos)

What you need for work (20 photos)

Painting MDF boards is a very labor-intensive procedure that will require compliance with technology and many rules. It is immediately worth noting that such work takes a long time, it may take more than one week. In any case, you can do everything yourself and still get the necessary decorative surface.

Why do this?

Many people wonder: is it possible to paint MDF at home, and why is this necessary? The answer to the first part of the question is yes. Indeed, you can paint the panels yourself. But it’s worth making a reservation right away: if you don’t have a spray booth at hand, the result is not always ideal. The coloring procedure is necessary for the following reasons:

  1. Painted elements become more resistant to high temperatures and humidity. Therefore, they can be used in the kitchen and bathroom, where they can fulfill different roles.
  2. By decorating, it is possible to diversify a dull interior and refresh the appearance of the room. The shade is chosen based on the design ideas.
  3. Painting MDF panels is also necessary in order to extend their service life.

Painting MDF allows you not only to diversify a boring interior, but also to extend the service life of the product

Of course, this option also has some disadvantages. For example, this procedure is sometimes much more expensive than using decorative films. In addition, the surface becomes prone to fading.

Selection of materials for painting

In principle, all paints for MDF are selected taking into account the composition of the material. And this is, first of all, a fine wood fraction, which means that paint solutions for wood are suitable for the job. But to really get high-quality coating It is advisable to use special mixtures.

When choosing materials for painting MDF, you should pay attention not only to the color, but also to the purpose of the paint

Polyurethane enamels

This material should be preferred for the following reasons:

  • The coating is wear-resistant and can withstand exposure to household chemicals.
  • The solution does not have an unpleasant odor, which makes it possible to carry out work in cramped home conditions.
  • The mixture can be applied using a sprayer, roller and brush.
  • Painting MDF with enamel is done independently; this procedure does not require professional skills.

Naturally, when choosing this material, they pay attention to the manufacturer. This must be famous brand, which is sold in specialized stores. When purchasing a product from an unknown manufacturer, there is a high probability of getting a fake.

Advice! If it is not possible to select a polyurethane composition, then pay attention to alkyd enamels and paints (oil and acrylic).

When choosing paint, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer

Varnish

Thus, the question of how to paint MDF panels is no longer a problem. But another dilemma arises - the surface needs additional protection, How can I do that?

Indeed, to increase resistance to mechanical stress and protect against chemical compounds, varnish is used. And for such work, a two-component polyurethane composition is especially suitable, which has all the desired parameters.

Stages and technology of painting

The procedure for painting MDF with your own hands is carried out in several stages. They can be divided as follows:

  1. Grinding.
  2. Putty.
  3. Padding.
  4. Coloring.
  5. Varnishing (patination).

Completing each stage is a guarantee that the result will turn out as intended.

Grinding

Work begins with grinding the surface. This is a rather labor-intensive task that must be performed carefully.

The panels are sanded with sandpaper with grit from 120 to 240 units. The process is performed in several stages and using different materials. Everything must be done very carefully, without staying long in one area. This procedure is carried out in order to remove small irregularities, as well as remove the fine lint that covers the entire surface.

The MDF sanding procedure allows you to get rid of small irregularities on the surface of the board

On a note! If on front side There are milled areas, it is better not to touch them. There is a good chance that the sandpaper will smooth out the corners of the design.

Puttying

Puttying MDF for painting has the goal of correcting the existing shortcomings of the panel. It happens that during grinding or due to improper storage, cracks or dents appear on the surface. To hide them, putty is used. Of course, if there are no such problems, then this stage is skipped.

The technology itself looks like this: the acrylic mixture is carefully applied to the desired area and leveled with a rubber spatula. After drying, be sure to sand it.

Padding

It is better to prime the surface of an MDF board using a spray gun, then the primer layer will lay down more evenly

This stage is carried out in mandatory. It is conventionally divided into two processes:

  • Applying the first coat of primer
    • This is done using a spray gun, so the room and place for work are prepared. It is better to cover other items with cellophane film in advance.
    • The mixture is sprayed over the entire surface of the panel in an even layer. This is done in order to raise the remaining pile and reduce the absorption of the base materials.
    • Next, when the slab is dry, it is sanded using fine sandpaper.
  • Second coat coating
    • The second layer is applied in order to consolidate the result and remove remaining blemishes.
    • Drying should take about a day, after which the panel painted with primer is sanded.

Coloring

Can MDF be painted with a brush and roller? Yes, but this should be done very carefully. There is a high probability that stains and streaks will remain on the surface. Therefore, it is best to use a spray gun.

The technology itself resembles priming. The paint is applied in several layers, each of which is pre-dried. It is important to achieve an excellent result, so the mixture begins to be sprayed from the milled areas to the edges, and then passes along and diagonally. It is much more convenient to paint smooth panels.

To paint MDF you can use brushes and a roller, but to obtain an even layer it is better to use a spray gun

On a note! To understand in more detail the drying time of the solution and its quantity, you must carefully study the manufacturer’s instructions. And also select the desired operating mode for the sprayer.

If you want antique

If there is a desire to give the surface a more expressive look, to age it a little, then they resort to patination. It is advisable to do this when there are drawings and patterns.

Patina is applied in this way:

  • walk over the selected area with a sponge soaked in the mixture;
  • leave until completely dry;
  • the painted area is sanded;
  • proceed to the final stage.

You can create the effect of artificial aging yourself by resorting to patination of the surface

Varnishing

The procedure is performed according to the instructions:

  1. The varnish is prepared for use.
  2. The first layer is applied at the rate of about 150 grams per square meter.
  3. After waiting for the first layer to dry well, apply a new layer.
  4. Repeat the drying process.
  5. Final sanding begins. First, sandpaper with a coarse grain is passed over the surface, then a finer one is used. To avoid lumps forming, spray the area with water.
  6. The panel is left for several days (from 4 to 7) and polished. For this it is better to use a power tool.

There are many tips on how to properly paint MDF. The main thing is to follow a clear plan and be careful.

The corridor is lined with MDF panels in a light wood look from floor to ceiling. The thickness of the panels is about 5 mm, I don’t see any film on top, it looks like a regular paper and cardboard layer on top. We touched it a little with our hands, decided to wash it with a damp dish sponge, rubbed it here and there a dozen times and rubbed it until there was a light spot in the middle of the wall, it would be okay if I stopped, otherwise I rubbed it in a couple more places
The first thought is to cover the entire corridor with stain or varnish, you can darken the color a little, it doesn’t matter. I'm leaning towards painting with a roller. What can you guys use to paint over worn areas and preserve the overall color if possible? Maybe varnish with a tint. Is it possible to cover MDF with it? I don’t understand how I did this.
Thanks for the advice and Happy New Year everyone.

Hello. I know that a similar question has already been asked. But I'll ask anyway. I have wood-look MDF panels in my kitchen, and in about a year or two I’m going to do some renovations. In the meantime, I want to paint these panels to freshen up the kitchen. There are several questions. Firstly, since this is a kitchen, do I need to degrease the panels and with what? Secondly, since the panels “look like wood,” do they need to be primed or painted with white paint before painting (I’m afraid that pseudo-wood cannot be painted with colored paint)? Thirdly, what kind of paint would you recommend? And I would like to know your opinion on painting MDF panels with textured paint? I don't know if it will hold up? In advance Thanks a lot for answer.

Lilia, Krasnoyarsk.

Hello, Liliya from Krasnoyarsk!

American auto giants, already at the dawn of their formation, were guided by the principle “do not repair, but replace.” That is, it was understood that the produced cars exhaust their service life and wear out as much as possible within a certain period of time. certain time. After which, no matter how much the car is repaired, some components, then others, will “crumble”. What motivated potential clients to buy new cars rather than repair old ones.

MDF panels from the same series. If they are old, cracked somewhere, peeled off somewhere, worn out, or their surface is damaged, then it’s easier to replace them altogether than to try to renew them various colors. No matter how hard you try, it will still be noticeable that they have been repainted. You can, of course, try to use trendy, super-expensive imported paint, but the cost of preparing the surfaces of MDF panels, purchasing all the necessary components (degreasers, compressor, paints) and painting itself will exceed the cost of dismantling, purchasing and installing new panels.

/By the way, when replacing old panels with new ones, it will be possible to use all the attributes of the old panels, that is, the beacons on which the previous panels were attached. Which significantly reduces installation time./

Therefore, think twice about whether it is worth resorting to painting old panels. Moreover, the result may not meet your expectations, since imported paint can be produced in the nearest gateway or on Malaya Arnautskaya by enterprising businessmen who pasted a brand label on an old container.

But if you absolutely decide to do as they were told, then try the following.

First of all, you should thoroughly degrease the entire surface of the panels. Since all kinds of solvents can damage the surface layer of the panels, since they are made on the basis of aggressive chemical components, it is better not to take risks and use ordinary detergents, the same ones that you use when washing dishes. With the exception of various compositions based on abrasive materials, that is, with the presence of grains.

Textured paints are generally more intended for coating on plaster or plasterboard, but you can also experiment with MDF panels, especially since even if the experiment is not entirely successful, you will be able to endure one or two years before the main repairs that you plan to do .

Before painting, you can apply an acrylic primer to better guarantee against all kinds of show-through of the old panel colors.

For your case, applying textured paint is preferable with a structural roller rather than with sponges or a compressor, especially since not everyone has such equipment in their arsenal.

But I repeat once again, no matter who I ask if they have ever painted MDF panels in their kitchens, they all unanimously say that they wash, they wash, but no one has ever painted. It is your right to listen to the opinion of the majority or do it your own way.

In any case - good luck!

Ask a question to Semenych (author of materials)

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To refresh your kitchen interior, you don't have to buy new furniture. More economical option is painting old facades, especially since modern materials allow this procedure to be performed at a fairly high level. In this article, we paint facades using standard technology, which is used by many furniture makers due to the excellent quality and durability of the result.

It is incorrect to say that painting the facades of cabinet furniture is simple process. If you want to get a durable coating without visual defects, then be prepared to spend money on the necessary materials, as well as be thorough and patient when preparing the part for painting and directly applying paints and varnishes.

Painting furniture facades is a simple way to restore a kitchen

As a rule, kitchen furniture is made of wood or MDF, which perform well during operation. To paint these materials we will need:

  • sandpaper of different grain sizes;
  • scotch-brite;
  • tool for applying paint (spray gun);
  • antisilicone (degreaser);
  • primer;
  • solvents;
  • auto enamel;

Sandpaper and Scotch Brite

Sandpaper will be used at almost all stages of painting MDF facades or wooden products for surface grinding. The grain size of the emery is selected taking into account the technological process:

  • P220-280 – preparing the base for priming;
  • P320 – removal of shagreen soil;
  • P500 – surface treatment before applying paint.

Advice! It is best to use foam-based sandpaper. It is quite flexible, which allows you to handle all the unevenness of the facades well.

Scotch Brite (sanding felt) with a P800 grit is used for final sanding of the surface before painting. A larger Scotch Brite abrasive (P220-280) may be needed for processing complex façade elements, for example internal corners or decor.

Painting tool (spray gun)

Kitchen facades painted with a brush or roller usually do not differ ideal surface. At the same time, the spray gun allows you to achieve a smooth and uniform coating structure. In addition, with this tool you can apply not only paint, but also primer, which makes the priming process faster.

Note! There are two types of spray guns - electric and pneumatic. For the first, it is enough to have an outlet at hand. The latter operate on air, so in this case you will need a compressor.

Optimal diameter nozzles – 1.2-1.3 mm. A gun with such a nozzle will allow you to spray both primer and paint evenly.

Pneumatic gun for painting furniture facades

Surface degreasing agent

Degreasing the surface before applying primers and paints is of great importance. If you skip this stage, the final result will most likely have defects, which can only be eliminated by completely repainting the facade.

For wood and MDF, it is necessary to use a degreaser that contains an organic solvent. This product is often called “anti-silicone” because it effectively removes not only various oils and fats, but also polyorganosiloxanes (silicones).

Degreaser (anti-silicone)

Primers

To ensure good adhesion of paint to a wooden surface, the part must be treated with a primer. For such purposes, three types of primer are used:

  • for plastic;
  • epoxy;
  • Pore-filling.

Don't be surprised by the name "for plastic". This primer is also excellent for wooden surfaces, which many manufacturers indicate in the description of this product. The main task of such a primer is to increase the adhesion of the facade material to the paint.

Epoxy primer is needed to seal the material with which the wood was originally exposed or impregnated. Porosity-filling primer is used to level the surface before applying paint.

Note! If the material of your kitchen is natural wood, no need to use epoxy primer. And to paint MDF facades, you should alternately use all types of primer: for plastic, epoxy, and pore-filling.

Primer for plastic, also suitable for wood and MDF

paints and varnishes

For furniture facades, auto enamel is the best choice. After drying, it creates a beautiful glossy surface that does not change its external characteristics over time.

There are two types of automotive enamel:

  • alkyd;
  • acrylic.

Alkyd enamel is a derivative of alkyd resin. Its peculiarity is fairly rapid polymerization at normal temperature air. This paint is cheaper than acrylic paint, but requires additional varnishing.

Advice! To open the facade, it is advisable to use automotive varnish marked HS (HighSolids), which indicates a high concentration of solid particles and a minimum content of solvents.

Acrylic car enamel is the most popular paint among car owners. When working with such material, there is no need to use varnish, since after drying the surface becomes uniformly glossy.

To achieve an interesting color effect, such as metallic, motorists often use a combination of special base enamel and acrylic varnish. If you paint MDF furniture with similar compositions, it will look very stylish and expensive.

Base enamel will give the kitchen facade an original shade

Solvents for primer and paint

You can dilute the primer and paint to the desired consistency with universal solvents 646 and 647, but individual selection of a thinner for each composition is considered more correct. For example, for acrylic-based car enamels it is better to use acrylic R-12, and for base enamels the seller will most likely recommend purchasing a solvent that matches the composition of the base.

In addition to diluting the primer and paint, a solvent will also be needed to clean the spray gun and workspace from paint residues.

Universal thinner for paint and varnish products

Preparing the facade for painting

The process of painting furniture facades made of MDF or wood always begins with surface preparation, which includes removing the top layer (gloss), priming and sanding the part.

Removing top gloss

As a rule, the outer layer of furniture facades is gloss, which is achieved through the use of varnish or paint. If you apply a new layer of paint to a glossy surface, it will adhere poorly due to low adhesion. It is to achieve the desired adhesion that the top layer is treated with sandpaper and Scotch Brite (in hard to reach places ah) with gradation P220-280.

Note! MDF facades are usually covered with PVC film on top. It must be completely removed, after which you can begin sanding the furniture.

It is not necessary to remove all the gloss from the facade. It is enough to fill the entire plane with a mark, that is, to achieve the necessary roughness for better adhesion of the surface to the primer.

Priming stages

Before you start applying the primer, the surface should be degreased by wiping it with anti-silicone. After this, you can no longer touch the part with your hands.

The direct priming process consists of the following steps:

  1. Surface treatment with primer for plastic.

Start coating the part with primer from the ends and hard-to-reach places, and then move on to the main plane. To create good adhesion of paint to MDF, it is enough to apply 2 layers of a similar primer.

Advice! To obtain uniform coverage, apply the next layer of primer perpendicular to the previous one. This rule also applies when applying paints and varnishes.

  1. Treating the part with epoxy primer.

Epoxy primer is applied to MDF in 1-2 layers. The time it takes to dry completely room temperature usually 24 hours.

  1. Pore-filling primer.

The color of the filler primer is selected depending on the color of the paint. If you intend to use light colors, then it is better to use white soil. The number of layers depends on the nature of the plane. For a smooth and even surface, it is enough to apply 1.5 layers of primer (spray + full coat).

Like paint, primer comes in a variety of colors.

Final sanding

The paint must be applied to a perfectly flat surface. If after priming there are still unclosed pores in some places, they should be sealed with a one-component putty. Many may have a reasonable question: why not putty the facade before priming it? The fact is that the primer itself is capable of eliminating minor plane defects, so there is no need to putty the entire part.

Final sanding before painting kitchen facades made from MDF or wood using P500 sandpaper. With its help, excess putty is removed and shagreen is removed - a visually noticeable unevenness of the coating.

Important! When sanding a primed surface with sandpaper, do not apply too much force so as not to disturb the coating. Take special care when processing the edges of the ends, since it is in these places that the material, as a rule, has the thinnest layer.

After sanding, the entire surface should be covered with Scotch Brite. In this case, you may not be able to control the force because the sanding felt is quite soft material and is not capable of severely damaging the surface.

Untreated shagreen after painting will be visible to the naked eye

Immediately before applying paint, the part should be degreased using anti-silicone, after which it would be a good idea to walk over the surface with a special sticky cloth to remove any remaining dust.

Applying paint

The paint is prepared according to the instructions supplied with it and taking into account the operating characteristics of the spray gun. The flow rate should not be too large so that the spray area is small. This will help to work out the façade more thoroughly and reduce material consumption.

As in the case of applying primer, you need to start painting the facades from the ends, after which the base is processed. To obtain a uniform color, 2-3 layers of paint are usually enough. Before applying the next layer, you must allow the previous one to dry for 10-15 minutes.

Advice! If you have never dealt with applying paint using a spray gun before, then it is better to first practice on a “test” piece before moving on to painting kitchen facades.

The spray gun allows you to evenly distribute the paint over the entire surface.

Surface varnishing

The varnish is applied to the facade according to the same principle as paint, in two or three layers. The purpose of the first layer (a small spray) is to create a sticky surface to prevent drips from subsequent thicker layers.

Important! It is necessary to varnish the part in a dust-free room, using clean clothes.

The interval between applying layers is on average 5-10 minutes. If you did everything correctly, the result should be a smooth, glossy surface with a mirror effect.

Lacquered kitchen fronts

Creating additional effects: glissal and raindrops

To make painted kitchen facades look not only fresh and neat, but also original, you can add interesting effects using glizal (translucent paint) or a regular water spray.

Glizal is diluted with water according to the instructions and applied to a pre-primed surface in 2 layers. Using a damp sponge, textured roller or a hard brush you can create a unique pattern on the facade. It is important to take into account that creating a drawing is possible only during the first 30-60 minutes, until the paint begins to dry. After the paint has dried, the part is opened with transparent varnish.

Note! Glizal takes longer to dry than standard paints and varnishes, so varnishing may have to be delayed for several days.

DIY decoration of furniture facades with glisal

To achieve the effect of raindrops, you will need paint in two colors, for example, black and metallic blue ( color scheme select according to the interior of your kitchen). A darker coating is applied to the prepared base. After it has dried, the part is covered with water using a sprayer. Without waiting for the drops to dry, the next color is applied on top with a spray gun. In this case, the paint supply should be minimal to achieve light spraying. After the layer has completely dried, the surface is sanded with Scotch Brite (P1200 or P1500) and varnished.

Painting furniture facades is enough labor-intensive process. If you have never encountered before similar work, then first it’s better to get your hands on old unnecessary furniture. If this is not possible, it is better to turn to specialists to avoid a senseless waste of money and effort.

Video: technologies for painting MDF facades

The process of making dyed MDF facade:

Painting with the effect of raindrops - “silver rain”:

Any person sooner or later has an irresistible desire to change something in the ordinary interior of his house or apartment. Often the usual rearrangement of furniture does not bring satisfaction and does not achieve the desired effect. In such cases, it helps to radically change the appearance of interior items by painting them. Considering the fact that most modern items furnishings are made from inexpensive and commonly available materials, today we will learn how to paint MDF furniture at home without the help of specialists.

What can be useful for painting MDF furniture?

The fact is that changing the color and painting the entire piece of furniture or its individual parts allows you to transform and completely change not only their appearance, but also the entire room as a whole, giving it some kind of new feature, zest. Another good thing is that painting MDF furniture does not require the performer to have any special skills or the presence of complex factory equipment. It is enough to prepare the necessary tools and buy suitable paints and varnishes, the main thing is to have a clean room for painting.

What tools and materials are needed for the job?

To radically change appearance your favorite furniture, make sure that when you start work you have at hand all the necessary tools and materials in the required quantity.

To finish furniture elements made from MDF, you will need:

  • Depending on your idea, one or more cans of paint in the desired colors.
  • Wood putty, which is used for sealing joints and partial repairs.
  • Container for diluting paint.
  • Masking tape of the required width.
  • Flat brush.
  • Roller with long fine pile.
  • Gloves to protect your hands.
  • A respirator to protect the respiratory tract from toxic paint emissions.
  • Protective glasses.

Important! A primer may be required to create a protective layer, but if you intend to paint a laminated surface, you will not need it. It is advisable to prepare a piece of sandpaper to clean the end surfaces and putty.

What paint is best to paint a cabinet?

Before you start working, you need to figure out how you can paint MDF furniture at home. Moving furniture is not hard work, first you need to decide in advance what result you want to achieve. Depending on this, it is recommended to choose the appropriate coating. Paints and varnishes used for decorating furniture are divided into two types:

  • Transparent.
  • Opaque.

Important! Opaque formulations, due to the presence of special pigments in them, are used to create protective layer and strengthen natural shade wood

Opaque substances include:

  • Drying oil.
  • Azure.

Such coatings are much more expensive than pigment paints, in particular due to the fact that they are used when working with the most expensive furniture made from expensive wood. If you paint ordinary furniture made of MDF, then you can use conventional products based on latex, acrylic or polyurethane.

Important! If the furniture you want to update is quite old and has minor scratches, then it is better to paint it with oil- or water-based compounds. Interior items coated with water-based paint look incredibly beautiful and last a very long time.

Universal options:

  • In great demand in Lately Alkyd mixtures are used because they are easy to apply, dry quickly and last longer than water-based and oil-based paints.
  • Compositions with polyurethane are no less actively used, but it should be noted that during operation they emit substances harmful to health. Therefore, you need to constantly ventilate the room.

How to prepare a surface for painting?

Studying general information, many are interested in whether it is possible to paint MDF furniture without preliminary preparation. In principle, yes, but experts say that it is better not to neglect this point. You need to carefully prepare furniture for painting so that in the future there are no problems with it due to mechanical stress and temperature changes.

The surface preparation process includes the following steps:

  1. First, the products are processed with sandpaper to create a rough surface. If there are large scratches or cracks, they should be filled with wood putty, then sanded again to eliminate unevenness and differences. The main purpose of this treatment is to eliminate smoothness, which negatively affects adhesion.
  2. Then a primer is applied to the treated areas, which will provide them with additional adhesion and reduce the overall paint consumption. In addition, the primer allows you to create a barrier between the natural substances of the wood and the paint to prevent poor adhesion of the layers.

Features of painting MDF surfaces

We have already looked at several important stages work. All that remains is to figure out how to repaint MDF furniture with your own hands. This process is incredibly simple, but nevertheless has certain features:

  1. Surfaces should be painted in one direction only. There can be several layers of paint, preferably two.
  2. It is recommended to apply the last layer along the canvas to be painted.
  3. The second coat cannot be applied until the first is completely dry.
  4. All surfaces must be completely dry, free of greasy stains and marks.
  5. Try not to cover furniture with more than two coats of paint.

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